Varnishes and thinners for oil painting

Types of solvents and thinners, which one to choose?

If the branded acrylic is over or you want to save money, then you can use the domestic manufacturer of the diluent for materials, the universal solvent P12. It has been successfully tested on almost all acrylic materials (varnishes, acrylic paint, primers, epoxies). There were no problems or defects. It can be safely considered as a universal solvent. P12 is “normal.

And so, the main criterion for choosing a thinner for diluting paint is the ambient temperature. It is necessary to determine the ambient temperature before painting and, as a result, choose the right one. Temperature affects the drying time of the material. In hot weather, the solvent evaporates faster and the paint does not have time to spread. Defects, coarse shagreen, dust appear. In cold weather, evaporation will be too slow, there may be leaks and more debris.

There are three groups of acrylic thinners:

1. Slow
2. Normal
3. Quick

Therefore, for quality work, always choose a material for a certain air temperature. If it is cold, then use a "fast" thinner at a temperature of 5 to 15 degrees. At normal temperatures between 15 and 25, "normal" is used. And in hot weather from 25 degrees, a slow one is needed. All figures are approximate, for exact definition, see the manufacturer's instructions. In the photo below, a series of thinners from Body 740 741 742.

It should be noted that there is no specially thinner for varnish or primer, acrylic. A universal acrylic thinner is used to dilute them. But for the base enamel there is a solvent for the base. Although many use the usual generic.

Thixotropic additive in paint and varnish

Thixotropic additive when added to paints and
varnish allows you to significantly increase the thickness of the liquid layer before the appearance of smudges.

Lucky

In oil painting, varnishes are classified according to their use: painting varnishes and top varnishes. Some are versatile in use. Separately, it is worth highlighting varnishes for retouching. You can read more about varnishing your work in the article “Varnishing oil painting”.

Varnishes for painting

Used as an additive for
artistic oil paints and presented in the form of a resin solution in pinene (turpentine
art).

Dammar varnish - thickish, used as an additive to paints and as a top varnish.
It is warm in color and turns yellow over the years.

It is very important! Therefore, they need
cover works only in warm colors. Over time, he will give nobility
painting

Dammar varnish can be thinned with a little pinene. If you add
in varnish pinned one to one, then the varnish will be matte, the same turns out to be interesting
the effect.

Mastic varnish - can serve not only in
as an additive to paints, but also by wiping intermediate layers with multi-layer
painting, replacing the retouching varnish in this. It is also used as a top coat. It has
property to turn slightly yellow over time, and more than dammar. Gives
work a glossy finish. Very flexible.

Copal varnish - dark color, used as
additive to paints. The dried film of copal varnish is insoluble with organic
solvents. Therefore, it is considered the strongest among the painterly varnishes.

Topcoats

Designed to cover
oil painting in order to protect from howling and sun rays, as well as for
giving the paint layer saturation and shine.

Acrylic-pistachio varnish (analogue of acrylic-styrene) - its film is almost
colorless, has great elasticity and surpasses films in strength
mastic and dammar varnishes. They should cover the work in cold colors.

Pistachio varnish - its film is almost colorless and very elastic. Truth dries up
longer than other topcoats.

Retouch varnish - used to prevent fading when multi-layer oily
painting, as well as to enhance the adhesion of paint layers. It is applied before
starting work on the desired site. This varnish slightly dissolves the top coat
paint, thereby enhancing adhesion to the new layer. Also, varnish helps to remove
matte withered areas, bringing back the brightness of the color. On the advice of the old masters,
instead of retouch varnish, you can use a cut of a head of garlic.

All about OIL PAINTING TECHNIQUE

How to mix paints correctly.

1. Beaker
2. Measuring ruler.

Each has its own advantages and what to use is the choice of purely everyone. The measuring ruler is reusable, it will last a very long time, unlike a measuring cup. Measuring rulers double-sided (different mixing proportions on each side). Basically like this: 2: 1 and 4: 1 and the other option is 3: 1 and 5: 1.
How to use the measuring ruler and glass in the photo below, there is nothing complicated about it.
Before mixing paints, be sure to read the instructions on the package, in what ratio to dilute the material. Below I will tell you in what proportions to mix different paintwork.

Mixing acrylic paint "acrylic":

For Vika paint this is a 4: 1 ratio with hardener and 20% -30% thinner. And for Mobihel 2: 1 with hardener and 10% -20% thinner.

Base mixing:
The base paint is basically a 2: 1 mix. That is, the base itself and half of it is the solvent. Can also be mixed 1: 1.

Mixing varnishes:
With varnishes, it's almost the same story as with acrylics. The varnish is diluted 2: 1 with a hardener and thinner from 0% to 20%. Depending on which viscosity you need it.
All the above figures are approximate, they can change for certain needs and the type of work, and the application technique. In general, see the instructions before use and there will be no problems.

To accurately determine the viscosity of a paint, there is a special instrument called a viscometer. The work of the viscometer: the viscometer is immersed in paint, taken out and noted for how long it takes to empty. As soon as the spray begins to drip, the stopwatch is stopped.

And finally, a couple of notes and tips:

• What if the paint is dry or thickened? Fill it with solvent, stir, cover and leave for a while.
• Do not forget about Health, solvent vapors are very volatile and poisonous, prolonged exhalation can harm your health. Use a dedicated respirator
• How to dilute alkyd paint? Recently, alkyd paints are practically not used in car painting. And you can dilute alkyd enamel with White Spirit.

Thank you for the attention. Good work

Optimal conditions for paint application

How can a high-quality painting of a car be done? Especially the answer to this question is of interest to those who have decided to do this work on their own. To begin with, you should strictly follow all instructions for using the enamel specified in the documentation for the paint. In addition, there are some simple rules to keep in mind.

Do not experiment too much with hardened oils and solvents, even if they are made in Vic. It makes sense to mix paints of different tones on the basis of selection using a computer. It is advisable to use a ready-made mixture, since self-preparation of the mixture can lead to a drop in quality. Purchasing and using third-party fluids may result in degradation of the enamel quality. It is not necessary to apply more than six layers of enamel at the entrance of staining.

In addition, you need to pay special attention to the quality of the tool used. It is not necessary to apply more than six layers of enamel at the entrance of staining.

It is not necessary to apply more than six layers of enamel at the entrance of staining.

Types of art devices when working with oil

Before you run to the store, it is worth warning that thinner and thinner are different things. Their purpose is the same, but they affect the quality in different ways after application.

Therefore, in order not to get an unpleasant surprise, now it is worth understanding their differences:

• Diluent. The mixture does not in any way worsen the condition of the paints due to its simple composition. And also it is used as a coating. After complete drying, the state of work does not get worse, but dries extremely slowly. But the thinner does not dilute all substances, but only selectively.
• Solvent. It is designed primarily to thin the paint. Thinner modifies the paint composition, causing it to dry more quickly, but the finish may deteriorate. It is also used to overlap a layer, while this cannot be done with a thinner. Unlike a thinner, it dissolves all substances at the same time, making the paint more flexible for creativity.

Now that you can understand the difference between the two terms, you can choose which is more suitable for you - a thinner or a thinner. Of course, they are both good and widespread, but in addition to these two types, linseed oil, vegetable oil, varnish, double and tee are often used. In this situation, there is no clear definition of what can be used and what cannot be used, everything is entirely at your discretion.

• Various oils are the oldest method of diluting artistic paints. The very first oil paintings were painted with linseed oil.However, they reduce the fastness of the ink and, after application, the ink becomes thicker if stored in tubes.
• Varnish is a resin mixed with a known solvent. Thanks to varnish, the paintings become brighter and also become denser. Thanks to this mixture, the subsequent solvents are made - a double and a tee.

• Double is a solution for which you need to mix art varnish with oil. It is necessary to mix in the proportions: 1 part of varnish, 3 portions of oil.
• To obtain a tee, add a solvent to the resulting mixture.

Thinners

Thinner No. 1. Producers: ZHK, Gamma. A mixture of turpentine and white spirit, taken in a 1: 1 ratio. It is used for diluting sketch oil paints, relief pastes, rinsing paints from canvases, palettes and washing brushes. Those. in less demanding jobs. The varnish does not dissolve.

Thinner No. 2 (white spirit). Producers: ZHK, Gamma. White Spirit, manufacturer: Maimeri. Oil refining product, fraction formed between heavy gasoline and kerosene

It should be used carefully, it has a high penetrating ability and can seep onto the back of the canvas through microcracks in the ground. It is used to wash off paints from canvas, palette and wash brushes

Not suitable for thinning varnishes.

It should be noted that for
dilution of art oil paints with white spirit and turpentine film
the paint layer darkens over time.

Thinner No. 3, manufacturer: "Gamma". Low odor thinner, manufacturer: "ZHK". Odorless thinner, manufacturer: "Maimeri". It is a well-refined white spirit. Makes colors more transparent, allowing for smooth gradations of tones. Improves the fluidity of paints and the adhesion of paint layers. Dries quickly, does not turn yellow. It is used for diluting oil paints, rinsing paints from canvases, palette and washing brushes. Does not thin varnishes. It should be noted that the lack of odor in this diluent does not reduce its toxicity.

When working with it, you should follow all the same precautions as when working with white spirit.

Thinner No. 4 (pinene). Producers: ZHK, Gamma. "Purified essence of turpentine", manufacturer: "Maimeri". From the Latin name for the pine Pinus. Pinene is a component of turpentine and is obtained by purifying gum turpentine from tarred substances. Pinene oxidizes much less than turpentine, which is not recommended for use in painting due to its tendency to yellowing and tarring. When mixed with paints, it reduces their consistency. Pinene is used as a thinner for paints and varnishes in painting. When the paints are diluted with pinene, their gloss decreases, over time it turns yellow moderately.

Thinner for art oil paints. Manufacturer: "ZHK". It is a mixture of bleached refined linseed oil and white spirit with the addition of a desiccant. Makes colors more transparent and less saturated, allowing for smooth gradations of tones. Reduces the drying time of oil paints. You can clean your brushes with it.

Thinner "Tee". Manufacturer: ZHK. A classic composition used by many artists for a long time. It is a solution of thickened bleached refined linseed oil and dammar varnish in turpentine. Gives shine and bright saturated colors. The thinner is used for thinning oil paints and also as an intermediate layer to enhance the adhesion of paint layers. Do not use for cleaning surfaces and brushes.

Each component of this diluent is itself a diluent. In addition, since linseed oil can cause shrinkage of the paint layer, especially the intermediate one, many artists do not use a "tee", but the so-called "double", which is not produced in its pure form. This is a dammar varnish mixed with a thinner such as pinene.

"Tee" is often prepared by yourself. To do this, take 1 part of dammar varnish, dilute in 3 parts of pinene, then add 1 part of oil. It should be noted that these ratios are not mandatory, and every artist who has at least some experience will be to his liking and, depending on the problem to be solved, make up his own "tee". The more pinen, the paint layer will dry faster and dry out more. More varnish is added to give the layer strength and less dryness. And if there is more oil, then the paint will dry longer and there will be no swelling and dullness.

Refined linseed oil is also sold separately. Used for thinning oil paints. Adding linseed oil to the paint has great advantages: the paint significantly improves the spreadability, adhesion to the canvas and the underlying paint layers. Also, the paint becomes less concentrated, more transparent, bright, shiny. The drying time of the paint is slowed down. As a result, it is possible to work "raw" for longer, to create glazing.

Linseed oil No. 2 is characterized by a more moisture-resistant film and less tendency to yellowing. It is recommended to use this oil for glazing, as it increases the optical properties.

How to do a quality painting

Staining, like any technological operation, must be performed in a strictly defined sequence, adherence to this sequence will ensure high-quality staining. Consider some of the operations in more detail.

Staining, like any technological operation, must be performed in a strictly defined sequence.

Features of surface preparation for painting

Basically, preparation is designed to do two things:

1. The first and essential one is cleaning the surface from dirt, traces of oils and corrosion. In addition, mechanical action can also be used for cleaning the surface, for example, a brush with metal bristles, or an abrasive cloth.
2. The second challenge is to significantly improve the performance of the pavement.

Enamel coatings are a kind of membranes. In other words, during use, especially in the presence of harsh climatic conditions, moisture penetrates the film and comes into contact with the metal, while the adhesive bonds between the coating and the metal are destroyed, as a result of which the coating peels off.

The use of chemicals ensures the creation of coatings that improve the operational parameters, while there is a significant extension of the service life of the applied layer.

The use of special chemicals allows you to create intermediate coatings that significantly improve the performance of the next coat of paintwork materials, extending the service life of the painted parts.

The complete technical process of surface preparation for coating includes surface cleaning and formation of a conversion coating.

The complete technical process of surface preparation for coating includes surface cleaning and formation of a conversion coating.

Technique of applying the material, how many layers, consumption

The technology of painting a car with a spray gun is in demand because of its advantages, among them the pace of work, simplicity, and comfort. In this case, vika enamel is sprayed into many small particles before it hits the part. Depending on the design, nozzles are available with different pressure levels. The head is fed from a container located at the bottom or top of the device. There are models in which the supply of paintwork materials is made from the pressure tank.

During the painting of the machine, the spray gun must be moved along the surface to be painted at a distance of 300-350 mm. Paintwork materials are applied in stripes, their edges overlap those previously applied by 40-50mm. The surface quality is 85% determined by the distance from the sprayer to the surface.

This technique of painting a car requires an unmistakable proportion of air consumption and materials. If there is a shortage, it will come out in "jerks", such a jet does not guarantee the proper quality of the coating. If there is a shortage of air, then the spraying will occur in large particles.

During the painting of the machine, the spray gun must be moved along the surface to be painted at a distance of 300-350 mm.

Before starting work, you should:

• Check the shape of the torch;
• Make sure that the air hose connection is secure;
• Adjust the sprayer operation;
• Test spray quality, this can be done on any level surface.

To avoid the ingress of paintwork materials, surfaces that cannot be painted should be covered with stencils. But you shouldn't take them off right after the completion of the work. Let the enamel dry before removing the stickers. At the end of the work, the tool should be rinsed and dried.

To avoid the ingress of paintwork materials, surfaces that cannot be painted should be covered with stencils.

A few words in conclusion. No motorist is insured against bodily injury. their elimination entails restoration work and the obligatory staining of the restored site. and the use of Vika enamels will allow you to choose the desired color and perform work with minimal costs.

Anti-silicone additive for paint or varnish

We met such an interesting explanation about anti-silicone additives, which is worth paying attention to. This explanation is from the instructions for use of the anti-silicone
explains to us the essence of the chemical reactions taking place during its application,
and also, oddly enough, is it worth using an anti-silicone
additive

What to look for when
the use of an anti-silicone additive

When an anti-silicone additive is added, the coating becomes completely unsuitable for
subsequent repair, so its application should be
prudent and justified.
Do not add anti-silicone to primers and base coats.

Anti-silicone contains emulsified fats, therefore, when it
added to the paint, a chemical reaction occurs, during which
the anti-silicone composition is emulsified into the paint in the form of technical fat.

The paint itself becomes greasy, and when applied to poorly degreased
surface, no defects appear. Concentration of the additive
so large that it is simply not possible to wash it out of the spray gun from the inside
seems possible

There are so many scratches in the channels of the pistol and
various risks, where the additive is clogged, which is absolutely completely
you will never be able to delete it.

Use a separate gun to apply materials with
anti-silicone additive.
After sanding, not even completely erased abrasives cannot be reused.
use.

Rice. 1. Anti-silicone additive APP in varnish or paint

How to choose the right solvent?

If you are tormented by any doubts when choosing the right product, then you should study the properties of each in order to understand what exactly is suitable for the job. This method has been used by many artists since the very inception of pictorial art. It all depends on whether you want to see your painting more glossy, perhaps with a lower density of colors and other factors that are important in the process of conceiving an idea.

• When it comes to writing your work in the shortest amount of time, it is best to use a pure art thinner. It is worth buying it in specialty stores, not at the pharmacy or anywhere else.Painting on canvas with this thinner dries quickly, and also maintains the glossy envelope of the painting for many years, keeping its quality in the best possible way. Its only drawback is an unpleasant smell. Nowadays, you can find odorless on the shelves, but the price will be slightly higher, and the comfort in further work will be more.
• When using various oils, the picture will dry longer, about 5-7 days, until the thick layers on the canvas dry completely. The oil also retains a glossy surface, but makes the paints thick and dense after application, which not all painters like.

• A double and a tee are a kind of golden mean between the two sides. Artists with extensive experience behind the back make it themselves. But for those who have never encountered this, it is recommended to buy a ready-made solution. By preparing the mixture yourself, you can calculate the drying time of the paints, which will clearly help to properly organize the time of all the work spent. The average drying time for work with these mixtures is three days after the end of the work.
• The initial use for varnish is to cover an already finished painting in order to improve its quality and preservation for a long time. Resourceful creators also found properties inherent in solvents in varnish, so later they began to use it not only for its main purpose. Works with varnish dry within four days, keeping their durability and saturation.

Car enamels from the manufacturer Vika

Quite often, car owners are faced with the problem of updating the paintwork of the car, this is caused by the negative influence of the external environment on the car's coating. Automotive enamels are used to carry out painting work.

The Vika brand represents a wide range of materials for the repair and restoration of bodywork. The Vika line of paintwork materials contains acrylic, alkyd enamels used for painting motor vehicles. Not so long ago, the company launched a new generation material on the market - 2K acrylic-urethane enamel AK-1305. This vika enamel is produced in fourteen colors. Its difference from its predecessors lies in the increased viscosity, the time required for drying. In addition, the new generation of paintwork materials is distinguished by gloss. Its presence eliminates the need for additional varnish coating.

The Vika brand represents a wide range of materials for the repair and restoration of bodywork.

Technical characteristics and scope

Autoenamel Vika, sold at a quite adequate price, has the following parameters:

• Drying and processing modes;
• After painting is finished, paintwork dries in 30 minutes. with uniform heating up to 80 degrees, in 45 minutes. - at 60 deg. and in 60 hours. at 20 degrees;
• Polishing the painted surface can only be carried out after a day, the outside temperature should be in the range of 20 degrees.

The painted surface can only be polished after 24 hours.

Advantages and disadvantages

Acrylic is often used for painting a car. In principle, this is a perfectly acceptable alternative to any other materials. This is partly due to the fact that acrylic-based enamels have a long service life, do not change their appearance over time and do not need special care. The brand is represented by the vika color palette and this certainly pleases the buyer, because you can choose almost any tone.

Vicat enamel has a number of undoubted advantages:

• During staining, the vetch paint lays down evenly, there are no drips and there are no conditions for the formation of such a defect as shagreen;
• The color is strictly according to the catalog number. This ensures that the color matching is perfect and matches the tone of the vehicle;
• Enamels are used for either complete or selective painting of body parts in any situation.

During staining, the vetch paint lays down evenly, there are no drips.