Do I need to prime the walls before gluing wallpaper

Do-it-yourself drywall putty

Before puttingty drywall, we prime the surface. Any primer is applied on a dry, clean surface. Therefore, we first remove the dirt from the surface, remove the dust (you can use a vacuum cleaner or a slightly damp cloth). After that, we prepare the soil according to the instructions (sometimes it is necessary to dilute with water, sometimes it is enough just to stir), pour it into a container and apply with a brush or roller.

Once again we go through the seam, applying a fresh putty about 0.5 mm thick, take the soaked reinforcing tape and glue it to this compound.

We take a spatula 8 cm wide and press the tape well to the surface, squeezing out the excess putty from under it.

A few words about which putty is best to use for gypsum plasterboard. Any one is suitable - based on gypsum or polymers (latex).

Polymer putties are usually finishing - they give a very thin layer and an even surface. There are both starting and finishing gypsum. The difference is in the size of the particles. You can use any, as long as the quality is good. To putty surfaces, you need a large spatula - with a blade of 40 cm or more and a narrow one - 10 cm.

The first layer is applied with a starting putty. It is laid in a layer of about 5 mm (the maximum should be seen in the instructions for a particular putty) and hides all the irregularities. Dilute it with water to a thick sour cream, stir thoroughly so that there are no lumps. Perforated corners are used to design outer corners - slopes, ledges, etc. First, a piece of the required length is cut. The metal is very thin, it can be cut even with ordinary large scissors, but if there are scissors for metal, it is easier to work.

Edges are trimmed at 45C or less, not 90C. So, when puttingty drywall, the edge will not wrap.

Environmental friendliness and resistance to chemical influences.
Moisture resistance and the presence of antiseptic components.
High level penetration.

Apply a layer of finishing mixture on the dried plasterboard wall primer under the putty.
After hardening, the surface should be cleaned

If the finishing will be completed by painting or wallpapering, then another application of the primer is performed.
When filling drywall, special attention is paid to the joints of two sheets and the grooves left after screwing in the screws. This coating will not be able to hide even small flaws, and in some cases even emphasize them.

Therefore, the correct plastering of drywall is the key to high-quality painting of the walls. The second method is simpler, and it takes much less time than the first, however, in terms of quality, such a coating will be decently inferior to the one that we did before. The manufacturer can be selected on such grounds as the ease of use of the solution.

For example, some companies tint mixtures yellowish or pinkish to make it easy to keep track of the evenness of the layers. Using a clean roller, the soil is spread evenly over the surface. If a composition with color indexing was chosen, then it becomes easy to control the areas of application of the solution during operation, as well as the completion of the drying period. The choice of material for the primer should be approached very carefully.

First of all, you should pay attention to the price. If the price of the mixture is half the price of the same primer from well-known manufacturers, then you should not rejoice and choose cheapness.

In a business like construction, the miser pays twice for sure.

It is better to choose a trusted manufacturer than a cheap one.Before you start directly priming, you need to choose the right tool for the job. Typically a soft roller, hard-to-reach brush and paint tray

When choosing a primer, pay attention to the manufacturer. You should not try to buy soil from an unknown company, even if it is cheaper - the quality of construction work is more important

The following primers are recommended: Knauf, Kaparol, Tikkurila, Ceresit.

Additional information on the topic:

Plasterboard ceiling in a room with two windows
Indoor aerated concrete wall decoration with plasterboard video
Wall decoration in an apartment with plasterboard pros and cons
Pvc panel for ceiling in bathroom or drywall
Materials for working with drywall and profile

Putty work, priming

After preparing the joints, the drywall should be primed before gluing the wallpaper before the putty. This will improve adhesion. Failure to apply a finishing layer leads to some problems:

the elevation of the seams above the surface creates irregularities on the canvases after gluing;
it will not be easy to remove the wallpaper when replacing: it will come off along with pieces of cardboard and plaster;
the lines of the joints of the drywall sheets are visible through the thin wallpaper.

Puttying is performed in the following sequence:

a solution is made from the finishing mixture with the expectation of 45 minutes of work, so as not to grab;
using a wide spatula, apply it evenly to the wall;
after drying, the applied layer is sanded with emery paper (float) until a smooth surface is obtained.

When the sanded surface is ready, some craftsmen may have a question: is it necessary to prime the drywall before gluing the wallpaper directly? Practice shows that this is necessary, since it prevents the rapid absorption of glue, provides better adhesion of materials (wallpaper to the wall). For information on how to finish the plasterboard base, see this video:

When processing walls, the floor should be covered with polyethylene

To prime a prepared plasterboard surface, it is enough to purchase the composition in a ready-made (cans from 5 to 10 liters) or concentrated (containers of 1-3 liters in volume) state.

The first can be used to immediately process the work surface, and the second - after dilution according to the specified recipe. The floor should be covered with plastic wrap to avoid stains.

The fewer defects on the treated surface, the better the wallpaper looks. We must strive for this.

The considered technology of carrying out preparatory work allows you to obtain a decorative coating from wallpaper for many years without repair. A beginner in decoration is also able to cope with all the work.

Make sure the area is well ventilated before starting work. Although acrylic primer is not a highly toxic material, it is still not recommended to breathe its vapors for several hours. If the home craftsman does not have experience in performing this kind of work, the question naturally arises: is it necessary to prime the drywall before puttingty. It will be useful to find out the opinion of professionals on when it is necessary to apply a primer, and in which cases, you can skip this procedure.

Of great importance is the color of the primer, which will show through from under the thin wallpaper. For light wallpaper, you need to choose a mixture of only white, for heavy, bright or dark materials with embossing, a composition of any shade is suitable. Drywall is one of the most popular and relatively inexpensive materials for leveling walls, it has many characteristics that are valuable for creating a comfortable environment, including lightness in installation, high speed of work, excellent sound and heat insulation, absence of extraneous odors, fire resistance, environmental friendliness.In the process of DIY repair, the question inevitably arises: is it necessary to prime the drywall before gluing the wallpaper and how to do it correctly.

Finishing the outside corners of the room is the most time consuming. This is primarily due to the low strength of these areas. Further processing of plasterboard walls for wallpaper begins with sealing the seams.

In this process, a reinforcing tape is used, and it boils down to a number of actions: As can be seen from the above technology, the preparation of gypsum plasterboard walls for wallpapering includes a number of procedures, including priming. In this case, the primer is applied before each new layer of finishing: puttying the seams, plastering the walls, between the layers of putty and before sticking the wallpaper.Finally, dust is swept from the walls and impregnated with acrylic primer of deep penetration. It is necessary for better adhesion of wallpaper and saving glue. Serpyanka is a lavs or fiberglass tape with an adhesive applied to its surface.

Outwardly, it looks like an ordinary medical bandage. Serpyanka should be glued as tightly as possible to the joints between the sheets, avoiding the appearance of air cushions. If the serpyanka does not adhere well, you can add a small amount of PVA glue. Preparing drywall for wallpapering begins with a preliminary examination of the walls. The joints of the slabs that require preliminary trimming are determined, the depths of the self-tapping heads are controlled so that they do not interfere with the surface finish.

If necessary, defects are eliminated.

Is it possible to glue wallpaper on a drywall wall without applying putty

In principle, it is possible to make pasting directly on walls finished with gypsum plasterboard, the surfaces are even, and the material itself seems to contribute to the process. However, not all so simple. There are nuances here that make it difficult to work.

It is advisable to familiarize yourself with them at the beginning of the whole process.

the plasterboard wall is reinforced, primed, putty. If there is an opportunity to leave small defects under ordinary trellises, then for photo wallpaper the surface should be smooth, made “to zero”. Every small missed defect will spoil the created picture, in a certain light.
Adhesive for this type of coating is purchased only recommended by the coating manufacturer.
For LED wallpaper, the correct wiring is carried out, according to the wiring diagram attached to the trellis.

For gluing tapestries with photo effects, you should not only prepare the surface, but also decide on the version of the wallpaper. Wall murals are diverse, in addition to the usual created photo, there are many 3D options on the wall, as well as LED coating. They are sold by construction stores, online resources on order.

Accuracy and accurate calculation are required in purchasing photo wallpaper. The bright tonality of the wallpaper may not fit the general interior of the room, thus, the entire plasterboard finish of the wall and partitions will be damaged. The question of removing wallpaper from plasterboard surfaces often arises, how can this be done without damaging the top layer of the cardboard?

The traditional method will not work, moistening with water is also quite problematic, it will simply be absorbed by drywall sheets.

Gluing wallpaper on drywall

Before gluing the coating to drywall, it is worth preparing the walls for the appropriate type of wallpaper. Most often today they use for repair: non-woven, vinyl types of wallpaper, as well as tapestries for painting and paper.

How to glue non-woven wallpaper

Finishing coat, distinctive for its size, is often used for pasting plasterboard surfaces. They allow you to save on waste and reduce the time for pasting.

Non-woven wallpaper

Before gluing non-woven tapestries to drywall, you need to carefully prepare the walls:

reinforce the joints;
cover the plasterboard surface with a primer mixture;
putty the plasterboard surface with plaster putty in 1-2 mm .;
cover the entire surface with a primer again.

Surface priming

Otherwise, the surfaces of the sheets of finishing material will be visible through the finishing.

The rest of the technology is the same as when pasting with ordinary wallpaper.

How to glue vinyl wallpaper on drywall

Plasterboard walls are putty, the surface is primed. After preparation, the vinyl material is glued according to the usual technology. A piece of cloth is smeared, then glue is applied to the wall and smoothed over the surface.

Vinyl wallpapers

Wallpaper for painting

After the joints are reinforced, the plasterboard surface is prepared for painting. For this, work is carried out on filling, as well as priming.

Special paintable wallpaper

It is necessary to glue the coating for painting end-to-end, which means that there should be no irregularities on the surface of the drywall walls. Before gluing, the walls are primed with deep penetration compounds, this will greatly improve adhesion.

Paper wallpaper

Such tapestries are great for gluing them directly onto drywall.

It is only important to properly seal the joints with a serpyanka or paper tape. And it is also important to close up the attachment points, otherwise, when smoothing the canvases, you can ruin them.

Any adhesives are suitable for gluing paper types of wallpaper, it is best to buy universal ones.

Paper wallpaper

Before starting work, be sure to apply the primer on the sheets 2-3 times, let it dry and only then glue it. After such preparation, drywall will not absorb moisture so intensively, and the glue will hold much stronger. Paper trellises are glued end-to-end or in a waybill, the gluing technology will be no different from the usual one.

How to glue photowall-paper

For wallpapering, you need to fulfill the requirements:

the plasterboard wall is reinforced, primed, putty. If there is an opportunity to leave small defects under ordinary trellises, then for photo wallpaper the surface should be smooth, made “to zero”. Every small missed defect will spoil the created picture, in a certain light.
Adhesive for this type of coating is purchased only recommended by the coating manufacturer.
For LED wallpaper, the correct wiring is carried out, according to the wiring diagram attached to the trellis.

Realistic wallpaper options are included in this video.

Correct preparation of joints, points of attachment of sheets and corners

Further processing of plasterboard walls for wallpaper begins with sealing the seams. In this process, a reinforcing tape is used, and it boils down to a number of actions:

the joints are expanded as necessary so that the solution penetrates between them;
knead the putty in a small volume so that it does not dry out;
using a small spatula, cover the seams, which should be covered to a width of 5 to 7 cm;
the laid material is allowed to dry, after which defects are removed;
the joint is lubricated with glue (PVA is suitable), on which a fiberglass tape is applied (for reliability, it can be greased on top again);
when the serpyanka dries up, apply the 2nd layer of putty mixture about 10 cm wide;
unevenness is removed from the dried surface with a spatula.

Finishing the outside corners of the room is the most time consuming. This is primarily due to the low strength of these areas.

A way out of the situation is reinforcement, which is performed using perforated plastic or aluminum corners.

The whole process goes as follows:

level check the evenness of the end part;
begin to prime the drywall after wetting the corner with water;
the inside of the corner cut to size is treated with an adhesive, give it time to dry (from 20 to 40 seconds);
after that, the perforated material is glued and putty after 30 minutes;
it is allowed to fasten the corners to a layer of putty, pressing them into the solution; after which the protruding excess is leveled, the position is checked with a level or rule.

If the applied glue is dry at the corner, then you can add a new one. There is a way to fix it with staples from a construction stapler, followed by sealing with the prepared mixture.

When a plastic material with a rounded shape is used, then it is cut from the corner of drywall to 2 cm.It is attached to a solution, the squeezed out excess of which is wiped off the rounded part with a damp cloth or sponge.

To prepare the inner corners for wallpapering, it is sufficient to use only reinforcing tape. It is adjusted to putty. After that, it is smoothed in the shape of the corner with a trowel or a spatula, giving the desired shape.

Do I need to prime drywall

In addition to antifungal protection, the product fills small cracks and small dents. With a primer, walls and ceilings are smoothed. This is especially true for the processing of seams, areas at the joints before puttying.

If you prime drywall before puttingty or wallpapering, then you can:

smooth out small cracks and dents on the surface;
to increase the degree of adhesion to finishing materials;
protect and further strengthen materials;
protect against the appearance and spread of mold.

Walls and ceilings are not primed if moisture-resistant gypsum board with the GKLV marking (already with protective properties) is used in the repair. In this case, the applied soil will not be absorbed and will collect in drops. The waterproof material is used in bathrooms, kitchens, rooms with constant high humidity. Priming is not recommended before applying the finishing filler. If the primer is applied correctly, a texture is created that looks more like a breathable mesh that braids the base.

Surface treatment is a way to intelligently save on materials and to extend the life of an existing repair. A regular roller is used for work. It is necessary to prime evenly and thinly. Drying time depends on the technical characteristics of the product itself, the type of finish, for example, under the wallpaper.

Types of primers for plaster and their composition

What kind of primer is required for plastering, which one to choose for a particular case, is determined by the range of tasks that arise during repair work. Often, the choice depends on the surface properties, type of materials and operating conditions: temperature range, humidity, environmental impact.

All soils are classified according to purpose and chemical composition:

Acrylic

In this case, it does not matter which primer to use before plastering the walls - this is a universal mixture suitable for most finishing work;
Mineral, gypsum-based (less often cement). Here the choice determines the base material;
Glyphthal

Designed for metal or wood;
Acrylic. Good for porous coatings;
Polyvinyl acetate. Specialized composition for special types of paint.

Division by purpose is used when it is necessary to do priming of dissimilar surfaces.

The choice depends on the surface properties, type of materials and operating conditions.

Universal primer

This plaster primer is suitable for most surfaces.Although it shows good adhesion overall, specialty formulations have the best performance. Suitable for wallpapering, installing tiles, painting, forming screeds and self-leveling floors.

A universal primer for plastering walls has its advantages:

Increased working time when installing tiles or applying plaster to a substrate with a high degree of adhesion;
When wallpapering, slows down the setting process;
Dedusting, strengthening of the surface layer. Allows to reduce paint consumption per running meter.

Universal plaster primer suitable for most surfaces.

Deep penetration

Usually, a plaster primer is used to strengthen the structure of a loose, porous surface of walls made of aerated concrete or already plastered. As a rule, a "deep" solution is created on the basis of a water-polymer composition, which, upon evaporation, forms additional bonds at the molecular level.

A distinctive feature is the need for complete drying. For example, a gypsum plaster primer can retain moisture for two to six hours. Moreover, experienced craftsmen recommend continuing work only the next day. It is advisable not to apply more than two layers, since an overabundance of polymers will significantly impair the moisture absorption process, which will weaken the adhesion force.

A distinctive feature is the need for complete drying.

Adhesive

This plaster primer is intended for surfaces with low absorption. It is usually made on the basis of an acrylate water-dispersion resin with the addition of a mineral filler. When dry, it forms a protective film layer with a roughness effect.

Typical applications are concrete lintels, ceilings and old painted substrates. Such a primer for plastering walls has a water-repellent effect, and also provides air penetration - it allows you to "breathe". These formulations are a good basis for the subsequent application of plaster or cement finishes.

This plaster primer is intended for surfaces with low absorption.

Plasterboard putty for wallpaper

It is impossible not to take into account the joints of the sheets, which must be sealed in the first place. For this purpose, special white paper is used, which also stands out significantly against the background of the general surface. If the plasterboard finishing was carried out in a newly built house, then, perhaps, after a while the structure will shrink.

If the joints of drywall sheets are not reinforced, and the entire surface is not putty, then when the walls of the house shrink, folds and creases will appear on the wallpaper.For rooms where a high level of humidity is expected, it is better to use primers that also have antiseptic properties. leading positions in popularity among other building and finishing materials. It is used for leveling walls and installing partitions, creating suspended ceiling structures, and other original interior elements of premises. It is able to become an excellent base for any decorative finish - it can be wallpaper, paint, ceramic tiles and even artificial stone. - Due to the quick setting of ready-made mixtures, it is necessary to work with them quickly enough. Do not mix a large amount of material when you make it yourself.

The container with the finished mixture must always be kept closed, collecting a small amount of putty in a separate container. The disadvantages of cement putty include a coarser-grained structure, in contrast to gypsum or polymer putties.

Additional information on the topic:

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Plasterboard partition in the nursery for two children of different sexes
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Installation technology multi-level plasterboard ceiling installation
Plasterboard ceilings and plasterboard arches

Step-by-step instructions for the procedure

At the preparatory stage, it is required to dismantle the old finish. The primer can be made by yourself or mixed with a dry mix from the store

In this case, it is important to observe safety measures

Cleaning old finishes

The technology for dismantling the old finish depends on the characteristics of the finishing material. Mechanical, chemical or thermal methods are used here. How to clean the base:

The wallpaper is moistened, removed with a scraper. If difficulties arise, apply an acid wash for 5–20 minutes according to the instructions. In extreme cases, the surface is warmed up with a construction hairdryer at a distance of 5–7 cm.
The plaster is removed in the same way. If it does not help, prepare a starch solution (2 tablespoons of potato starch in 2 liters of water until completely dissolved). It is left on the surface for 15–20 minutes, then the plaster is scraped off with a scraper.
Specialized formulations - universal solvent or alkaline remover. The plaster is removed mechanically by tapping with a hammer and chisel or with a sandblaster, a hammer drill or a grinder with a diamond disc (with a layer thickness of 10 mm).
The putty is easiest to remove with starch solution or solvent 646. In extreme cases, you will need to work with a grinder or a punch by analogy with plaster.
Panel cladding is dismantled according to the specifics of the material. Self-tapping screws are removed, seams are sewn using solvents, the frame is dismantled.

After dismantling, assess the condition of the surface. Significant defects will need to be filled in fragments. In case of surface differences over 3 cm, it will be necessary to level the walls with gypsum rotband or a cement-based building mixture (for wet rooms).

The concrete must be dust-free with a construction vacuum cleaner. Then a layer of concrete contact or penetrating soil is applied. Read about the technology below.

Do not spray the surface with a damp cloth. It is recommended to grind off significant defects with a grinding trowel with a P180 attachment.

Preparation of the mixture

Most primers do not require mixing or dilution with water. It is enough to shake or stir them by hand. However, for large areas, it is more economical to choose dry soil. Released for consumption of 40 m2 or more.

Advice
It is necessary to mix the solution according to the instructions.

It is important to pour the mixture into water, but not vice versa .. You can make the soil yourself: mix the construction PVA plasticizer in water in a ratio of 1: 2

The solution is mixed with a spatula. Copper sulfate or mineral chips are added for modification. However, homemade soil can be inferior to store soil in a number of characteristics.

You can make the soil yourself: mix the construction PVA plasticizer in water in a ratio of 1: 2. The solution is mixed with a spatula. Copper sulfate or mineral chips are added for modification. However, homemade soil can be inferior to store-bought soil in a number of characteristics.

Protection of hands and face

When working with a primer, it is necessary to observe safety measures. The primer can only be applied in a ventilated area. There should be no sources of ignition in the working area. It is better to protect your hands with rubber gloves. Do not let the composition come into contact with mucous membranes or skin. For reliability, you can use a medical mask, goggles.

Pay special attention to protection when priming the ceiling, as the solution will drain from the working tool

How to apply correctly?

It is better to apply the primer to the ceiling with a paint brush with a soft bristle. This will avoid unprocessed fragments as well as inconvenience during work. The easiest way to prime the walls is with a roller. Any tool except foam will do. It strongly absorbs the composition.

Process:

pour the composition into the pallet, dip the roller, roll it in slightly;
moving from the bottom edge of the wall, make horizontal movements;
work in daylight to avoid untreated areas;
the primer is applied in 1-2 layers, but no more (it is better to apply the covering primer twice);
before finishing or applying the 2nd layer, the primer must dry;
it is necessary to start finishing 3-4 hours after the final priming.

Attention
Acrylic primer dries quickly (up to 4 hours). Therefore, it is especially recommended to use it for large volumes of work .. Video on how to prime the walls, even for a beginner:

Video on how to prime walls, even for a beginner:

The priming of the putty is no different from the usual one. The main thing is to choose the composition, taking into account the type of room, the specifics of the decorative finish. For painting, choose a covering primer, in other cases - deep penetration. For concrete, concrete contact is preferable.

Do I need to prime drywall before puttingty: under wallpaper, tiles or before painting

Another important property is an increase in the strength of sheets that are treated with a primer. This, in turn, helps to maintain the integrity of the coating during impacts and other damage. When creating walls or ceilings from drywall in a room, it is often assumed to be further processed by one of the options, it can be painting the walls, wallpapering and laying tiles.

Based on each material, it is necessary to process the surface of the sheets accordingly for further work. The first step in this is to work with the primer.

There is a disagreement on whether it is necessary to prime drywall before puttingty, wallpapering or plastering, but there are quite objective reasons that speak of the advisability of such a procedure. The advantage of this treatment is the disinfection of the surface, which will subsequently prevent the appearance of fungus or mold on the coating. In addition, such gypsum boards are protected from all kinds of pests and are not afraid of mold or mildew. Due to the additional initial processing, this material is stronger than simple sheets and can withstand high loads.

If walls are erected with the help of such material, then you can then glue the wallpaper on them, lay the tiles, and even paint, but all these tasks must be correctly implemented. According to the manufacturers, the wallpaper can be glued onto drywall sheets. But, before that, the surface should be carefully prepared.

If you do not follow all the instructions, you cannot avoid the following consequences: Plastering will not only help to make the walls perfectly even, but will also increase the repairability after gluing the wallpaper, and will also allow the use of roll materials of any shade and color. Plasterboard construction can be found in any room. Ceilings, walls, shelves and niches - everything can be leveled and made from gypsum plasterboard and a metal frame. Plasterboard has a perfectly flat surface, which, when prepared, makes it possible for a different decor.

Before you start pasting wallpaper, you should prepare it well. Modern adhesives are made from mixtures that perfectly create an adhesive effect, but without a primer, these components will be absorbed into the base and will not give the expected result. Primer mixtures do not allow the composition to penetrate inside and create a basis for wallpapering.