How to calculate the required number of cinder blocks for the garage. cinder block calculator

The project is the basis of all work

Often, novice builders avoid preliminary preparation, preferring improvisation. Such an approach will require the restructuring of individual elements, additional investments and the risk of defects in the structure due to improper selection of the foundation. For a small room, it does not take much time to draw up plans and drawings.

Many novice builders are often intimidated by this word, believing that it will take a long time to create a project.

A cinder block garage project will require a minimum investment of time. it is recommended to draw on the sheet an approximate view of the completed structure from the outside and from the inside. A visual representation will help speed up the process and quickly deal with the supply of communications, the location of inventory and tools.

Before starting the design, you should decide on the purpose of the structure:

for auto repair. A garage with a basement is ideal for maintaining the condition of the car;
for car storage. If you have 1 car at your disposal, a standard box will do without any additional changes. A garage for 2 cars from a cinder block may come in handy, even in the absence of a second car, but there are plans to purchase a vehicle in the future;
for work. If a workshop will be located in it, the installation of numerous equipment will be required, the structure should be expanded for the free movement of the master.

Floor coverings in a metal garage

When all the work is finished outside, the garage is sheathed with metal and is a completely finished structure, you can start installing the flooring. The main requirements for it are as follows:

abrasion resistance;
strength;
reliability;
low cost.

It is extremely important that the cost of finishing the garage "does not pull" from the budget serious amounts that exceed the cost of creating the structure itself. Of the most commonly used options, a jellied (cement) floor is offered, paved with bricks, made of wooden boards

Cement surface

The easiest way to make a stable and sturdy garage floor. To do this, you will need: cement grade M200-400, quarry (not river) sand, access to water supply and material for lighthouses. The last condition is necessary if the pouring area is significant, and there is no possibility to fill the surface at one time. Lighthouses help to navigate by elevation marks, to avoid noticeable transitions between fragments of the garage floor covering.

Before the start of the pouring, marks are made on the walls (floor level), they must coincide with the ones of the same name outside the garage, so that the sill does not turn out. The disadvantage of such a garage floor is the tendency to chipping, the need for repair.

Concrete flooring

The most powerful yet labor-intensive design. You should prepare yourself for the fact that the minimum thickness of the concrete floor is 150-200 millimeters, this parameter is taken into account when building a garage.

You will definitely need reinforcement - without it, the coating device does not make sense. Other required materials include M400 cement, fine crushed stone and sand. The components are mixed in a concrete mixer, this will allow them to be evenly distributed.

Compaction and vibration during laying is an indispensable condition, otherwise the sand and grout will settle down, and the rubble will remain on top. In addition, in this case, there is a high probability of the formation of hidden voids, shells. The floor is loaded 28 days after pouring, not earlier.

Brick floor

A brick floor in a garage is strong enough and reliable if it is made according to all the rules.But for this you need to have whole, not broken stones, carefully follow the laying technology. It is permissible to use clinker - this is an artificial brick, cast in the same way as paving slabs. The seams between the individual elements must be rubbed with a cement-sand mortar.

You can load the garage floor after the mixture has finally set. A serious disadvantage is considered to be poor susceptibility to unevenly distributed influences: the brick can crumble, over time, individual stones will inevitably loosen, they will have to be reinforced again.

Wood covering

An old tried and tested way to simultaneously insulate the floor and lay the covering over the rough surface. The boards should be flat, without knots falling out, preferably grooved and well dried. It is best to put the floor on logs - special bars, but then the level "rises" to a considerable height (this must be taken into account when designing a garage).

Before laying, it will not hurt to soak the tree with a special solution to prevent rotting, and also place a sub-layer of film under the floor (for waterproofing). Planks are fastened with ordinary nails, screws, which are driven into the tree at a slight angle and recessed.

Then the floor in the garage is painted in any possible way, you can even close the edges of the boards around the perimeter with a plinth - it will be aesthetically pleasing and functional.

Roofing device

The roof in the garage is made either single-slope or dual-slope. There are, of course, other options for roofing, but these are the most optimal and popular. To create a roof in the garage, I-beams with a length of 250 mm longer than the width of the room to be built will be required.

The beams are laid across with a step of 70-80 cm. After that, they are sewn using a 4 cm thick beam, laying it close to each other. The timber is covered with roofing material, expanded clay, slag or semi-rigid mineral slab is poured on top. Well, then a screed is poured, 15-20 mm thick, covered with rubemast or aquaizol.

Arrangement of a conventional shallow foundation for a garage

If you plan to equip a small inspection pit in the garage with your own hands, then the deepening of the foundation tape should be at least one meter. This will provide a high bearing capacity of the base and prevent deformation of the base during excavation work.

Let's dwell on the important points of construction work that will prevent the negative effect of heaving soil and moisture on the foundation tape and the walls of the building:

it is imperative to insulate the outside of the foundation along the formwork with sheets of extruded polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene along the entire height of the tape, including the base. We choose the thickness of the foam, focusing on the climate of the region;
installation of a blind area (50 cm wide), with foam insulation, will prevent the soil from freezing and deformation of the brick and concrete walls of the garage;
storm sewerage will provide water drainage from the foundation;
additional drainage at the level of the sole is necessary when there is a high level of groundwater at the site;
it is imperative to install high-quality waterproofing of a concrete tape using penoplex or ordinary sheets of roofing material. You can also use bituminous waterproofing.

If you do not save on waterproofing and drainage work, then the stability, strength and durability of the foundation is guaranteed.

Construction stages

Before proceeding with the construction of the foundation, you need to prepare a place for construction and mark the site according to a previously developed plan.

Site preparation and marking

First of all, the site on which construction is planned should be leveled as much as possible and cleaned of debris. This can be done both with the help of special equipment and manually - it all depends on the condition of the site and the capabilities of the future owner.

Particular attention should be paid to the presence of large roots in the ground (especially in the place of the foundation), which in the future may germinate and harm the structure. Therefore, when preparing the territory, you need to get rid of them.

After that, according to the drawing drawn up earlier, the markings are made for the strip foundation - this type of foundation is quite enough for a garage. You can outline the contour of the foundation using reinforcement and fishing line or cord.

The rods are driven in at the corners of the perimeter from the outer and inner sides of the base (the minimum width of the structure is 30 cm), after which a cord is pulled between them.

Foundation construction

At the end of the marking, trenches are dug under the foundation, the depth of which, ideally, should be below the level of freezing of the soil, but 60 cm is enough for central Russia.

Next, a cushion of sand and crushed stone is laid. Each layer should be about 30 cm thick.

After that, formwork is installed from boards, the walls of which are covered with a layer of waterproofing made of polyethylene or roofing material. The next stage is the construction of a reinforcing cage from rods with a thickness of 12-14 mm.

This design will give the base strength and resistance to deformations possible due to ground movements.

At this, the preparatory work is considered completed, and it remains only to fill the foundation.

To do this, you can order a ready-made mixture delivered in special vehicles, or prepare a solution yourself using the components: cement, sand and crushed stone in a ratio of 1: 3: 5.

Read also: Design of a winter garden in a private house photo

Walling

Before laying the cinder block, you need to take care of waterproofing the foundation, because if you build a garage, then you need to do this correctly. For this, all the same cellophane or roofing felt are used, which are laid along the perimeter of the base.

Also, a frame for the gate is set in advance, fixed with spacers. Blocks are laid starting from the corner and performed in the following sequence:

The first row of cinder blocks is laid out, during the laying of which the horizontal masonry is checked.
The next rows are laid with an offset of half a block. After the construction of every third row, reinforcing bars are laid on the blocks, which makes the walls more durable.
When laying the last row, openings are left for the floor beams.

It should also be borne in mind that the back wall of the garage must be lower than the front. This will provide a roof slope, the value of which depends on the coating material and can vary from 5 to 35 degrees.

Roof and floor

For the construction of the roof, floor beams are inserted into the equipped nests. It is best to use I-beam steel channels, but since this option is quite expensive, you can get by with wooden elements, having previously subjected them to a special treatment against decay.

Boards are laid on top of the beams, and waterproofing is laid. After that, the roofing material is mounted.

The final stage in the construction of the garage is the pouring of the floor. For this, a layer of soil is removed, the bottom of the pit is rammed and covered with sand and gravel. Next, the reinforcement cage is mounted and concrete is poured at the level of the basement.

Foundation instructions

The work is in full swing

The trench for the foundation is filled with fine gravel or coarse sand in order to reduce heaving processes and exclude the accumulation of water under the sole.

After that, the drill is used to prepare the grooves for the installation of piles. They must be placed in the corners and around the perimeter of all walls at intervals of 2 meters.

The diameter of the holes must freely allow the piles to be installed.

Coarse sand is poured into the holes with a layer of 18-20 cm - it will serve as a pillow. It must be well spilled with water and tamped. After that, metal or asbestos-cement pipes are lowered, concrete solution is poured into them 30 cm.Then the pipe is slightly raised so that the concrete flows out - creating a kind of sole, it will ensure reliable adhesion of the piles and dense soil.

Until the concrete has hardened, it is necessary to level the piles vertically using a level. When the concrete sets, reinforcement rods are lowered into the pipes, tied together in the form of a lattice. The reinforcement cage should protrude from the pipe and reach the top of the foundation.

After that, at the soil level, a wooden formwork is created from the boards. It is assembled with nails and self-tapping screws, reinforced with bars in the corners. All protruding parts of the formwork must be outside the structure. The walls must be strengthened by installing struts and securing the ties. A reinforcing cage is installed inside the formwork. Bars with a thickness of 8-16 mm (taking into account the load) are connected in the form of a grid at the intersection points, the reinforcement is tied with wire. It is necessary to connect the reinforcement of the piles and the reinforcement cage of the foundation.

The prepared foundation and piles are poured with concrete mortar. During pouring, it is necessary to pierce the grout with a bar of reinforcement to help the air escape. After that, the upper part of the foundation is smoothed and protected from precipitation by covering it with plastic wrap.

While the foundation is drying, you need to control its moisture. Drying must not be allowed. In the heat, the foundation that is gaining strength should be periodically watered.

When the concrete has completely set, you can begin waterproofing the foundation. To do this, use bituminous and polymer roll materials - for example, roofing material or self-adhesive film. Before work, coat the concrete surface with antiseptic and primer. When the surface is completely dry, it is waterproofed.

After that, it is necessary to insulate the foundation, most often polystyrene is used for this purpose. The boards are fixed to the surface with a special glue. When it grabs, the plates are additionally fastened with dowels.

Development of a garage project from a cinder block

Designing a storage space for a vehicle is a crucial stage of work, which is the basis for the implementation of construction activities. You can approach the design stage in different ways:

independently develop a project. This is a budget solution that does not require any financial costs;
use the services of professional designers. On a contractual basis, professionals can develop the necessary drawings and detail individual units;
adapt a typical project. Using a ready-made plan and a typical drawing, you can independently choose the layout of the future structure.

Before starting construction, it is recommended to view sketches or photographs of ready-made garages in order to choose your own design option

At the design stage, you need to decide on the following points:

the purpose of the garage. Depending on whether the vehicle will only be stored or repaired, the dimensions change;
the need to equip an inspection pit. The depth of the pit should ensure the ability to comfortably carry out repair work;
the expediency of placing a cellar for storing food and preserving. Combining two functional rooms within the framework of a common structure is very convenient.

Knowing the dimensions of the vehicle, it is easy to determine the dimensions of the room, allowing you to move comfortably, place the necessary racks and shelves:

add 1.4–1.6 m to the length of the machine;
add 1.8–2.2 m to the vehicle width.

Features of a cinder block garage

The cinder block has a prismatic shape and a porous structure. This building material consists of slag, water and a binder. The last element can be gypsum, cement, lime. Concrete cinder blocks are more popular due to their low thermal conductivity, good frost resistance and high water resistance.

In addition, cinder block masonry is much faster.One block replaces 6-8 regular bricks. This material is lightweight and easy to work with. For masonry walls, blocks with dimensions of 390x190x190 cm are usually chosen.

The construction of a block garage does not require special knowledge and can be done by hand. But first, the building needs to be designed. A standard garage has dimensions of 4x6 m.The design stage includes the following questions:

Foundation trench.

it is necessary to conduct a geodetic assessment of the terrain: type of soil, groundwater level; seismic resistance;
you should find out the distance to utilities: electricity, water;
an estimate of construction costs is drawn up;
the type of structure, the shape of the roof, as well as the layout of the masonry: spoon or bonder are determined.

After obtaining official permission to build a garage, you can proceed to its direct construction. The construction consists of the following stages:

;
building a basement for good thermal insulation and ventilation of the room;
masonry walls;
pouring floors;
roof fabrication;
installation of gates and wiring of engineering networks;
finishing the garage.

Strip base under the garage

Very often for garages from foam blocks they erect a strip foundation of two types with their own hands: monolithic or prefabricated. It is worth noting that the construction of a support strip structure with your own hands is possible only when choosing a monolithic foundation. Prefabricated belt supports must be installed using lifting equipment, which significantly increases the cost of construction, since the rental of cranes is not cheap.

A strip foundation can be erected on sites under the following conditions:

The depth of soil freezing is up to 40 cm.
Groundwater does not lie close to the surface (the depth of the aquifer is from 1.2 m).
At the site there are soils with good bearing capacity: sandy, hard clays and loams, soils with the inclusion of detrital rocks.

Monolithic tape erection technology

It is important to carefully mark the area before laying the foundation.

If the site intended for the construction of a garage meets all the conditions, you can start preparatory work.

To begin with, the surface of the site is cleaned of household and construction waste, plant residues, pits are filled in and embankments are cut off. If necessary, make a vertical layout of the site - it is easy to do it yourself.

After completing the planning and cleaning of the site, you can start marking the boundaries of the future garage. To do this, on the site, measurements are made of the sides of the garage around the perimeter, pegs are hammered in the corners along which the string is stretched, which will help to maintain a straight line when digging trenches with your own hands for the foundation.

Earthworks and formwork

You can dig trenches for the construction of a foundation tape for a garage with your own hands or with the help of mechanized earthmoving equipment, but in both cases it is worth carefully cleaning the bottom and side walls of the trenches.

The formwork of the strip base is made of board panels

Sand of coarse fractions is poured onto the compacted bottom of the trench, which is carefully compacted, constantly spilling the sand cushion with water. The compacted layer of sand should be 10-12 cm high. A layer of fine gravel or pebbles is laid over the sand, which is also compacted with your own hands using manual or vibratory rammers.

The formwork is placed in the trenches manually, trying to maintain the vertical position of the boards. Shields should be made from wooden boards, thick plywood and chipboard

It is also possible to use disposable or reusable formwork for the device of the formwork for the foundation strip, in the latter case it is very important to clean the reused shields from dirt, dust, frozen mortar

Reinforcement and concrete pouring

High-quality fittings are the key to the reliability of the foundation of the house

To increase the strength of the support base, the strip foundation for the garage needs to be strengthened, for which a spatial frame made of reinforcing steel with a diameter of 10 mm is placed in the formwork, which is connected by welding or tied with a knitting wire.

The frame is located in the formwork so that unprotected metal reinforcement does not come out onto the surface of the foundation. Bars or pieces of rolled metal are laid at the bottom of the trench in order to raise the welded frame above the sand and crushed stone pillow.

The concrete solution is poured into the formwork simultaneously from both sides; the concrete mix must be compacted with vibratory rammers. This operation is performed with particular care at the joints of the reinforcing cage.

It is very important that voids do not form in the body of the strip foundation.

The upper surface of the concrete solution is leveled and poured with water. It is required to moisten the foundation for about 2 weeks. To protect the concrete surface from cracking, the strip foundation is covered with several layers of film.

Watch the video on how to properly fill the slab base with your own hands.

The structure gains strength within 28 days, after which it is necessary to perform waterproofing from roll materials and start laying walls from foam blocks.

Advantages of the material

A cinder block is a block of concrete that consists of slag. There are many types of slags, but blast furnaces are used for building materials. It has very high building qualities. Also, for such blocks, inexpensive fillers are used, such as shell rock or brick battle. The thermal conductivity of cinder blocks can be increased with polystyrene.

It is an excellent material for summer residents and the construction of country houses. Blocks have a lot of advantages, and you can even make them yourself. Masonry can also be done easily on your own, even for a beginner. Building a garage from a cinder block with your own hands allows you to significantly save money, bring pleasure and relieve you of a lot of trouble. By reducing the number of builders and machines, this creates an opportunity to reduce costs, and self-construction is another reason to be proud of your work.

You can build a garage from a cinder block on your own, and the thermal insulation properties of the material can significantly improve the quality of the structure being erected. Where are cinder blocks used? Most often, they are used to build garages, fences and houses. Some features of the material allow you to determine with accuracy for yourself what type of structure can be most suitable for. There are two types of cinder block - hollow and corpulent. The walls are constructed from hollow material. Solid blocks are considered more durable, and they are used to build a foundation.

The block does not like to get wet, this should be taken into account when building a cinder block foundation. Such a foundation can only be built on dry ground or for a small house, structure. Building a cinder block garage can save you time and money. It is not always necessary to hire professionals for work, because most of the work can be done on your own. Although it is believed that cinder blocks are not very reliable, in fact, their service life is 50 years.

How to calculate the material for the garage

To carry out the necessary miscalculations, you need to find out more information about this material and its features. Despite the fact that many manufacturers interpret the standards for the manufacture of this product too freely, quality goods on the market are more common than fakes.

It is impossible to check the production stages on your own, but you can also make sure of the reliability of the products with the help of a simple test. To do this, you need to buy one unit of goods and drop it approximately from the height of the chest level (meter - one and a half).A good quality cinder block will remain intact, except that it sprinkles a little around the edges. Defective merchandise is likely to split in half. The test surface must not be concreted, and the block must not be thrown forcefully. Only after making sure of the reliable quality of the building material, you can start bulk purchases.

What you need to know before buying:

The standard dimensions of one block are 39 centimeters. By simple calculations, you can determine that there will be 72 units of the product in the cubic capacity.
Slight differences in dimensions are allowed depending on the molds used in the production.
If blocks of various sizes are needed for the construction of a building, the calculation is based on the cubic capacity. If all products are the same, it is easier to plan based on consumption per square meter.
The best result is obtained by comparing the two counting methods. This will allow you to get the most accurate amount and avoid additional difficulties.

If you know for certain the dimensions of the future garage space, it will not be difficult to calculate the required material. More details about the two methods for calculating cinder blocks are described below.

Universal foundation - monolithic slab

Any non-professional who decides to build a garage with his own hands is faced with the difficulty of choosing a foundation. Almost everyone asked the question: "Is there really no universal foundation?" In fact, in this situation, it is rather difficult to talk about universality. But the least problems, in the presence of negative factors, will be caused by the foundation slab, in other words, the floating foundation.

The floating foundation is a monolithic reinforced concrete slab that is placed under the building. This design distributes loads well and is optimal for a one-story garage without additional recesses (inspection pit, cellar). The slab foundation can even be used as a floor, but it is better to insulate and make additional coverage.

The monolithic slab is called "floating foundation" for a reason. It is directly related to its properties: when the soil settles or cracks from severe frosts, deformation of the foundation and the building does not occur. The structure, together with the slab, shrinks smoothly, which ensures the durability and practicality of the structure.

Pros and cons of a floating foundation

A monolithic slab for a garage has many positive aspects due to which its use is so widespread.

A monolithic slab is not afraid of geological problems. Such a foundation is not afraid of shrinkage, swelling and washing away.
High groundwater is not a hindrance for a garage built on a monolithic slab. Providing proper waterproofing and compliance with technical standards, the garage will always be dry.
The slab foundation can act as a floor, which will simplify the work and save a little. As a rule, insulation is done on top of the floating foundation and the main covering is laid.
The design of the reinforced concrete slab allows you to make a warm floor in the garage. It is a great alternative to uneven and wasteful heating.
The solid construction provides 100% protection against rodents and insects that can penetrate the ground and floor.

Well, the main advantage, of course, is the simplicity of the design itself. Even if you have never done anything like this, having carefully studied the issue, you can make a reliable floating foundation for a garage with your own hands, which will serve you for many years without complaints.

Although there are few shortcomings of this design, it still has them. Firstly, such a foundation excludes the arrangement of a viewing pit or cellar. But not everyone needs them. Secondly, the installation of a monolithic slab implies a large consumption of reinforcement and concrete, which is quite costly. Again, reliability and durability are well worth the expense.

Summarizing an overview of the main qualities and properties of a floating foundation, we can say that this is the most practical and simple solution for problem areas.

Design options

A monolithic slab for a garage is universal in that there are several design options. You can use the one that best suits your requirements and financial capabilities.

1 Regular

An ordinary slab is a solid base, 10 to 60 cm thick, located in a recess or on the surface.

2. Reinforced at the edges

This design can be located at any convenient depth (1.5-2.5 m). The monolithic slab, reinforced at the edges, is a flat base with stiffeners placed around the perimeter. With the help of formwork, the ribs are also poured with concrete, forming walls. Another reinforced concrete slab is formed on top of the reinforcement. As a result, we get a solid foundation with a basement room that can be used as a basement or cellar. Due to the complexity and high cost in private garages, such a design is not used very often, but almost all high-rise buildings are built according to this principle.

3. Lightweight (lattice)

This design allows you to save a little on materials, although it is only suitable for garages made of lightweight materials (wood, foam blocks). The lightweight foundation is not a solid slab, but a lattice with cells (from 1 to 1.5 m). Such a foundation can be called monolithic at a stretch, it is more like a strip foundation. But nevertheless, with such a foundation, the load is distributed much more evenly, and the building structure itself is more stable.

Start of construction

Before proceeding with the construction of the garage, you need to take some preparatory measures, namely:

Develop a garage project taking into account all the details.
Calculate the required number of cinder blocks.
Decide on the method of stacking blocks.

Project creation

Behind this loud and perhaps scary name for some hides a relatively simple procedure.

All that is needed here is to decide on the structure of the building and sketch out a sketch on paper, taking into account the dimensions of all the elements of the structure, approximately as shown in the photo above.

When developing a drawing, you should think about the purpose for which the garage will be used - only for storing a car or also for repairs, whether you need a viewing hole or a cellar, etc.

After that, on the basis of the schematic drawing, you can make an estimate and purchase the amount of the required material.

Detailed development of the project will help to avoid serious mistakes during construction and will serve as a guide at all stages of work.

Calculation of the number of cinder blocks

To calculate the number of blocks, you can use the following scheme, considered on the example of the construction of walls half a block thick. First, you should calculate the area of the outer face of the cinder block, the dimensions of which are usually 19x39 cm.

As a result of multiplication, 741 cm2 is obtained, which is approximately 0.0741 m2. To find out how many blocks will be used for the construction of 1 m2, you need 1 / 0.0741. This is approximately 13.49.

Thus, to erect a square meter of a wall, you will need 14 cinder blocks (rounded value).

Next, you need to calculate the perimeter of the garage by adding its length and width and multiplying the result of the addition by two. The resulting value is multiplied by the height of the walls, after which the total number of cinder blocks is calculated. In this case, the goal area must be excluded from the calculations.

Example:

garage size - 6x8;
wall height - 2.5 m;
gate area - 8.5 m2;
the perimeter will be: 6 + 8 * 2 = 28 meters;
28 * 2.5 (wall height) = 70 m2;
70 - 8.5 (goal area) = 61.5 m2;
61.5 * 14 (number of blocks for 1 m2) = 861 cinder blocks.

According to these calculations, you can already roughly imagine how much such a garage costs, if you have already decided on the dimensions for your building.

Laying method

When constructing a garage, cinder block masonry is no different from brick, and the method of laying depends on the load on the walls of the building. There are several masonry methods in total:

laying in half a block - it is used mainly for internal partitions, therefore this method is more relevant for other types of buildings;
masonry in one and a half blocks - often used in the construction of load-bearing walls of a building;
masonry in two blocks - used for the construction of two- and three-story structures;
laying in one block (bonding method) - it is this option that is most often used in the construction of a garage, as the most optimal.

Learn more about laying cinder blocks from the video:

Instructions for the construction of a shallow strip foundation

A concrete foundation must be given at least 2.5 weeks to gain strength

Step 1. A complex of preparatory work is carried out to clean up and plan the site.

Step 2. Make a marking of the contours of the foundation.

Step 3. The soil is excavated to a depth of 40-45 cm. The width of the trench should be equal to the width of the tape and the distance required for the structure inside the formwork ditch.

Step 4. Using a bayonet shovel, align the walls of the trench. Use a scoop to level the bottom.

Step 5. All surfaces of the ditch are compacted with a vibrating plate or an improvised device from a piece of timber.

Step 6. Sand is poured into the bottom of the trench in an even layer. The thickness of the "pillow" should be 5-10 cm.

Step 7. Pour water over the sand and compact it, at the same time leveling the layer.

Step 8. In a similar way, a gravel "pillow" with a thickness of 10-15 cm is formed.

Step 9. Shields are built from lumber, they are connected to each other and formwork is built. Support its outer walls with bars.

Step 10. Inside the formwork, a reinforcing belt is knitted, consisting of two rows of reinforcement. The corners are reinforced with double rods.

Step 11. Concrete is prepared from cement, sand and gravel in a ratio of 1: 3: 3.

Step 12. Pour in the tape. When concreting, each layer of mortar is thoroughly pierced with a reinforcement bar. In this way, air is allowed to escape. If this is not done, voids will form in the thickness of the concrete, which will reduce the bearing capacity of the foundation.

Step 13. The top layer of the tape is leveled with a rule or an even bar.

Step 14. Cover the concrete with plastic wrap.

Step 15. After 5-7 days (depending on weather conditions), the formwork is dismantled.

Concrete gains strength within 28 days. But work on the construction of garage walls can be started earlier: in 2.5-3 weeks. During the period of concrete maturation, a viewing hole is dug and concreted in the right place.

Several types of foundations are suitable for a garage made of cinder blocks.

It is important to choose the right option for the specific construction conditions. Detailed instructions will help you fill in the shallow tape with your own hands