DIY garden paths: 16 ideas with photos

A modern touch - the use of plastic modules

If there is no time to build a solid stone or tiled covering, but there is a desire to quickly install paths in the garden with your own hands, you can use a temporary option - garden plastic paths. Ready-made modules, most often the same size and color, are sold in the store.

The color of the plastic modules is chosen depending on the area on which they will be laid. Most often these are green or black products.

In addition to the low cost, plastic tracks have other advantages:

  • retain their shape and appearance for a long time, wear out slowly;
  • have holes so that water does not accumulate and go into the ground, that is, they do not form puddles and do not create a smell;
  • plastic is practically not rotting;
  • do not require constant care and attention, they are well cleaned and washed with water from a hose;
  • resistant to chemical attack;
  • quickly assembled and assembled according to the principle of a constructor;
  • they are equally easy to fit on any base - sand, turf, clay.

At the end of the summer cottage, plastic modules are dismantled, washed, dried and stacked in a utility room until next year.

Plastic paths are a good option for creating temporary paths on lawns

Paths at the summer cottage are created not only for practical use, but also for decorating the territory

In addition to the listed options, there are other types of garden paths - brick, from parquet boards, from concrete blocks, as well as all kinds of combined options. The basic rule for choosing material for the track: it should be combined in texture and color with the house and other buildings.

You need to start with a plan

Before arranging landscape paths, a plot diagram is drawn, the geometry of the passages is determined. The shape of the garden path does not have to be straight. There are no rigid frameworks when developing a project.

Some site owners prefer strict geometry. Then the tiles for laying are chosen in an appropriate, even shape. It can be finished paving slabs in the form of rhombuses, squares, rectangles, triangles. Round tree cuts will do.

It is necessary to take into account the location of the plantings. Perennials, hedges, bushes with colored foliage: red, spotted are planted along the curbs.

The winding paths look advantageous and unusual. They can either shrink or expand. It's good when track textures change. The tree is replaced by gravel, pebbles.

Designers in a small area are advised to make wave-shaped garden paths, then the area will visually expand.

Preparing the site and base of the track

Water-permeable concrete in the form of a semi-finished product can be purchased at any large construction hypermarket. The product is a dry mixture with verified proportions, which just before laying it is enough to dilute with water according to the instructions.

Those who want to save money can make the solution themselves. All that is needed additionally is a primitive concrete mixer, which is not even necessary to purchase, it is much easier to rent one.

However, some preparatory work must be done before mixing the drainage concrete.

The first stage is planning and marking. The paths in the country must meet two basic requirements - functionality and pragmatism. Their main purpose is to connect the main points on the site and provide passages to the main structures (house, gazebo, barbecue area, etc.).

Of course, the best option would be to pave such kind of paths according to the principle of the shortest distance, but the path, which resembles a school ruler, does not look very nice in a small area. Therefore, it is advisable to show some creativity when drawing up a plan and provide at least small bends.

Did you know? One of the most unusual types of concrete is LiTraCon (literally "light-transmitting concrete", that is, light-transmitting). Hungarian inventor Aron Lokonshi added fiber optic to the standard mix of components, resulting in a material with the same technical characteristics, but with a completely new and sophisticated appearance.

The functionality assumes that the planned scheme will include all the important points to which it will be necessary to get, and, accordingly, after the construction work, the household will not have to trample or lay new routes that were not thought out in time. The optimal width of the summer cottage path depends on how many people are planned to be placed on it at the same time. For one person, 40–80 cm is enough, for two - at least 100 cm.

And a few more rules that should be taken into account when drawing up a plan:

If you want to make a winding path, it is better to provide for the maximum radius - this will almost not lengthen the path, but will add decorative and sophistication to the site.
The path should not start out of nowhere and lead to nowhere.
When continuing on the path after reaching the intermediate point, it is important to try to maintain the general trajectory of the direction of travel.
It is better to avoid intersections when planning paths, and if this does not work out, try at least not to make them at an acute angle.
In the planning process, the given terrain should be used as much as possible.

We suggest you learn how to lay out a tile track in the country.

After drawing up a plan and transferring it to the terrain, the next important stage begins - the preparation of the base of the track. The planned segment must be cleaned of debris and a ditch with a depth of about 30 cm must be dug over the entire area of ​​the laid routes.The walls of the future paths are fixed with special plastic panels, and formwork is installed at the bottom, designed to keep the solution in a given shape and prevent it from spreading or absorbing into the ground ...

The final stage of the preparatory work is the laying of a two-layer cushion of gravel (10–25 cm) and river coarse sand (up to 5 cm), which must be sieved beforehand. After laying each layer, the surface must be carefully tamped and additionally compacted by watering.

In some sources, there is advice before laying the formwork to cover the soil under the future track with a layer of geotextile.

This recommendation makes sense, since it allows you to solve two problems at once:

  • eliminate the accumulation of moisture in the lower layer of the track and, accordingly, protect the drainage concrete from premature destruction;
  • block the process of germination through the porous material of weeds, which, no less than moisture, reduce the service life of the finished structure.

Step-by-step instructions for a wooden path from saw cuts

Step 1: preparation
wooden cuts

Usually,
wood has different properties
moisture resistance, strength, hardness
etc. Best for the track
choose hardwoods.
For example, such as aspen, oak, beech, elm,
walnut, larch, ash. These breeds
will last the longest. Pine is
also a good option, but they will serve
slightly less.

However, the tracks
usually make from what is. It's all here
depends on your desires and capabilities.

To begin with, we need, in fact, the cuts themselves. You can buy ready-made ones, or you can, if possible, cut the log yourself.

We need
cuts, about 10-15 cm high, but not
less. Thin saw cut will not be reliable
fixed in the sand and will "walk".
Make sure the cuts are the same
thickness.

Further, the cuts need to be impregnated with protective equipment. Such as bitumen, drying oil, copper sulfate. What you usually use. Do not neglect the treatment with protective compounds. Soon, without impregnation, the wood will start to rot, will be susceptible to attacks by pests and will bring you many unpleasant "surprises". After processing, the cuts must be thoroughly dried.

Step 2: markup
places for the track

Track width
depends on your desire, but not worth it
do it narrower than 35 centimeters, by
so narrow it will be uncomfortable more expensive
pass.

Next, we decide on the route along which the track will pass. We designate the route and dimensions (width) using pegs and a rope stretched over them.

Step 3: Trench for
track

Next, you need to dig
a trench that should be deep
5-10 centimeters above the height of the cuts.
This place is needed for laying drainage.

At the bottom of the trench, we lay a plastic wrap or any other suitable waterproofing. Pour crushed stone on top of the film, in a layer of 3-5 centimeters in height. Tamp the crushed stone well (you can use gravel), level it.

Step 4: framing
curb

This step
optional. Depends on whether you need
whether you need a curb or not. Somebody think,
that without a border, the track seems to be out of place
the end of the completed one. And someone thinks that
the curb spoils the look of the natural path.
In general, it's up to you.

As a frame for a wooden path, you can use logs, wooden blocks, sheet metal, brick or wooden shafts, sawn lengthwise.

Step 5: sandy
pillow

We have already completed the first layer of the "pillow" by filling the trench with rubble or gravel (see step 3). Now we fill up the sand as the second layer of the pillow and pour it with water. This makes the sand better compacted.

Step 6: wooden
cuts

Now we lay the wood cuts. Here is the will of your imagination. You can lay cuts as you like, at any distance, with any pattern, and so on. The main thing is that it is necessary to "drown" the cuts well in the sand, not forgetting to level the track.

Between the cuts, you can fill in soil and sow lawn grass, for example. Plant flowers along the edge of the path. Any options for your imagination. And the wooden walkway is ready!

Useful Tips

The classic option for making a garden path is the use of plastic covers. Naturally, it will take a lot of them, and they look the same in order to maintain a certain style. It is recommended to prepare a sand base. It is necessary to ram it as carefully as possible, then the track will confidently serve for a couple of years.

An alternative to tires can be considered the use of broken tiles, which remain in abundance after most repairs.

It is very important not just to lay it out, but to arrange it in such a way that the surface looks as attractive as possible. Most often, a sandy substrate is prepared, and when forming a mosaic they act as creatively as possible

But it is important not to forget about the convenience of using the track and the fact that all its parts must have the same height. Pieces of tiles must be separated by at least a small gap, and after laying they are tied with cement mortar.

Some craftsmen act differently: they start by filling the necessary strip with cement, after which they proceed to laying the broken tiles. But this method requires the ability to work quickly and complete certainty with the design of the surface, since there is no time to come up with it after preparing the mixture.

From factory materials, it is best to use paving slabs, especially since its application does not require significant experience. If desired, such a coating can be made with your own hands.

This will require vibrating machines. For 1 sq. m of coverage you need:

  • A bucket of cement (grade not lower than A-Sh-400);
  • Three times more sand;
  • 0.2 kg of plasticizer;
  • Coloring agent, if necessary.

It is unlikely that it will be possible to create a spectacular tile without dyes, and their consumption is relatively small, so it is unreasonable to save on such reagents. Experts recommend preparing for work not one, but at least two or three forms for obtaining tiles in order to dramatically speed up the process. The solution in the molds is compacted using a vibrating table or vibrating platform, and when the workpieces acquire the necessary strength, they can be used immediately.

There is a scheme that does not require sealing, but it involves the use of a large form. Immediately place the container in the selected place, pour the prepared mixture into it, making sure that no voids appear in the material. It is permissible to combine dyes of different tones, "adjusting" the appearance of the tile to the general perception of the site.

In most cases, the tiles themselves become attractive enough to satisfy aesthetic tastes.

If the goal is to speed up the work process as much as possible, you will have to abandon paving slabs and other materials and use reinforced concrete slabs. All actions will be reduced only to choosing the right places and laying the plates. The coating is not the most aesthetic, but very durable.

When preparing the path, take care of the design of the borders. They help to sharpen the border and avoid deterioration of the coating. Without a border, you can lay concrete slabs or natural stone with fanciful geometry. But sand, gravel and pebbles necessarily require an external fence.

If you prefer a rustic style, it is advisable to decorate the path with wood. Curved structures are best created using natural stone, and the brick will look perfect if there are buildings made of it nearby. Fans of original ornaments and patterns should choose paving stones of different tones. Gravel and pebble solutions are optimal in a garden with a pond.

Concrete and brick are compatible with each other. Pebbles with wood, gravel with natural stone can also be combined into an attractive ensemble. Laying gravel and small pebbles requires preliminary treatment of the soil with herbicides, covering it with plastic wrap or agrofibre. The outer border is tiled or brick.

When laying a stone path, there is a secret - it is better to choose those stones that have at least one flat edge. After filling the voids between the blocks, the path should be watered with water, sometimes it is necessary to sprinkle it with sand a second time to close the remaining gaps.

When laying paving stones, the standard technology involves preparing a trench 200 - 250 mm deep. If the thickness of the coating is more than 6 cm, it will inevitably rise above ground level, which requires the use of curbs. Paving stones, even with the most insignificant-looking defects, quickly deform and lose their characteristics.

Preparatory stage

It happens that the already laid elements of the garden path fall through or, even worse, become overgrown with weeds. These are the consequences of improper foundation preparation. To avoid such errors, you need to correctly:

  1. Make a markup of the future path. To do this, on a flat area, you need to install stakes and mark the boundaries with tightly stretched cords. In this case, the distance between the pegs should not be less than 2 m.
  2. Dig a hole 20-25 cm deep within the markings. This is best done in dry weather, as a flooded trench can weaken the foundation.
  3. Compaction of sand for subsequent installation of curbs.
  4. Cover the bottom with geotextiles so that the path does not sag and overgrow with weeds.
  5. Prepare a drainage layer of fine stones or sand and gravel mixture in a ratio of 7: 3.
  6. Place a sand cushion of the same height on the drain.

When calculating the number of blanks, experts recommend making a 15 percent markup to the initial number of hemp. After all, some chocks may simply not fit into the overall picture of the site or crack when processed with cutting tools. As for the location of the tracks, the starting point for planning should be the house

It is important that the main routes are not interrupted by bends, and the main paths connect the most important objects: the entrance to the main building, the gazebo and the garage

Prepared cuts of a tree can be bought without any problems at a hardware store

Where to get ready-made cuts

Finished cuts can be ordered at any hardware store. Many manufacturers offer products that are well dried and already treated with antiseptics. The consumer only has to install them, taking into account the size of the site and the width of the future coverage. However, such a purchase can result in a significant amount.

A finished linden cut with a length of 40 cm and a width of 14 cm costs at least 70 rubles. A large saw cut of an oak with a thickness of 3.5-4 cm - from 900 rubles and more. Saw cut of elm 7x8 cm in size and 2 cm thick will cost customers 20-25 rubles. And since for one track with a length of 8-10 meters, at least 70 cuts will be required, for everything about everything you will need to pay 10,000-15,000 rubles. And this is not even the limit.

How to do it yourself

If there are old and practically unviable trees on the site, the blanks will get almost nothing. Otherwise, you will have to buy a large round timber. Larch is ideal for sawing. This material tolerates physical activity well. Its other advantages include good compression and shear performance along the fibers in the tangential direction. According to the latter parameter, larch bypasses pine and high-strength oak at times.

Larch cuts are best for the path.

Good quality saw cuts from pear, apple, acacia and hornbeam

It is important to remember when choosing materials: pre-processing of hardwood requires special knowledge. It will be more convenient for amateur builders to work with walnuts or Karelian birch

These species lend themselves better to carpentry, and in structure they resemble rosewood and rosewood.

Getting started making cuts with your own hands, you need:

  • remove branches from the trunk;
  • carefully treat the surfaces of materials with plows or staples;
  • make a marking of the trunk, taking into account the rule: the greater the thickness of the log, the greater the height of the cuts;
  • in order for the track to serve at least 3 years, their height should not be less than 18-20 cm;
  • dissolve the main material according to the marks.

When preparing the cuts for the track, they must be marked and sanded

Track construction progress

A good foundation must be made for a concrete, brick path. The appearance and the time that the sidewalk masonry will live on will depend on this.

Step 1. Leveling the surface

The preparatory work consists in the fact that the place is leveled. A shallow groove breaks out under the sand cushion. Sod with grass is preliminarily removed.

A shallow groove breaks out under the sand cushion

It can be laid along the edges of the path by cutting it into narrow strips.

Step 2. Laying the drainage

Now, so that the path with your own hands in the photo and in life is ideal - without a blade of grass, we lay soft material. A special film will prevent moisture from the ground from destroying the masonry and hinder the growth of weeds.

Step 3. Install the sides

To prevent the sidewalk from creeping under our feet, we install a barrier made of boards and plastic along the edges of the pit. This is a temporary option, while the composition is poured and the soil is prepared.

Step 4. Fall asleep and compact the sand

After pouring sand, tamp it tightly. This is the so-called sand pillow. You can lay a layer of fine gravel underneath.

It is enough to pour the concrete mixture into molds and level the surface.

The formwork does not allow the layers to crumble.

Step 5. Fill the sidewalk

Now you can move on to the process itself.

It is enough to pour the concrete mixture into molds and level the surface. Although there are a couple of tricks here:

  • generously wet the place under the concrete fill, so it will crack less;
  • use casting molds - do not forget to measure the height of the slabs by measuring.And remember about shrinkage, raise the form 0.5 cm higher than the neighboring, already dried plate;
  • if you do not have a concrete mixer, prepare a little mixture and use it quickly;
  • for a brick path, you first need to pick up a pattern, arrange the bricks according to the pattern and drive them into the ground with a mallet. The gaps are filled with cement mixed with sand. Then they are poured with water and again we tamp the sand with concrete. You can sprinkle with fine gravel.

Helpful hints:

  • It is convenient to drive the sand-concrete mixture into the cracks between the paving stones with an ordinary broom. Pour some onto the surface and sweep the road:
  • a special impregnation for stone will give a noble shine and durability to a brick. Do not forget to apply the same special varnish on top, the clay from the brick will not be washed out much longer.

For wood flooring, the laying process is very similar to the previous ones. The main difference is that the tree needs to be processed. Special formulations are replaced by ordinary heated drying oil. Apply it completely to the entire surface. The trench for wood blocks should be deeper than for other types of sidewalks. The slots are closed with the same mixture of sand, concrete or crushed stone, shavings, splinters of coniferous trees.

Choose resinous wood species for a path made of wood: pine, spruce, larch, oak.

Choose resinous wood species for a path made of wood: pine, spruce, larch, oak

It takes a lot of effort, as you can see. However, do-it-yourself tracks from scrap materials differ from ready-made purchased options.

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