Do-it-yourself extension to the house

How to make an extension roof without errors

The canopy is attached to the main building, so the strength of the structure depends on the calculations. If the numbers turn out to be wrong, the roof could collapse at any moment. To prevent this from happening, the anchor points are located along the entire wall at an equal distance. Additional beams are installed along the outer perimeter. They serve as the basis for the edge of the structure.

The annex to the cottage is heavily loaded in winter due to snow, so the roof must be made at an angle. The ramp will allow the snow to roll off on its own. Otherwise, the owner will have to clean the canopy. For the roof you will need:

• wooden boards;
• fire protection for wood;
• screws or nails;
• covering (metal tiles, flexible tiles, corrugated board);
• drainage system, snow retainers.

Attention! The lumber must be impregnated before being attached to the main structure. At the time of assembling the roof, they must be completely dry.

The installation of the canopy can be done using the step-by-step instructions. The stages are different for different types of roofs, but in most cases they are similar:

• The boards are impregnated with an antiseptic. It is diluted in water in the proportions indicated on the package. Recommendations must be followed, because the wrong consistency does not protect the wood to the right extent. At the same time, the boards are laid out on a flat and clean surface. Apply an antiseptic with a roller, pneumatic spray gun or brush.
• Install the Mauerlat using a mixture of cement or tile glue. The surface is leveled with a spatula. A timber or boards are taken as a basis. Lay a layer of waterproofing and roofing material. Foamed polyethylene is also suitable, which protects the room from excess moisture. The insulation layer is no thicker than 2-3 cm.
• Mauerlat is fixed on a reinforcing belt. To do this, you can use dowels, concrete the studs or install them between the seams at the time of laying the last row of the wall (wooden beams, foam blocks or bricks).
• A wide board is nailed to the masonry, which will be the basis for the future roof. In thickness, it should correspond to the Mauerlat. The structure will turn out to be strong due to the horizontal position, so you need to check the slope with a level. After that, another one is nailed from the bottom of the board with an edge, forming an angle. Water protection is made between the board and the main wall, otherwise the tree will begin to rot over time.
• On a board nailed to the wall with a wide base, markings are made for future screw holes. In order for the structure to be fixed securely, self-tapping screws 10 cm long and 7 cm in diameter are used. If the ends of the beam are not placed close to the wall, they are fixed with dowels. Before screwing in the hardware, make small holes so that the wood does not crack. The thickness of the recess is not thicker than 1.5 mm.
• Beams are attached to the board with metal elements. Stands, holders and stops will work. These can be purchased at any home improvement store. With such tools, small discrepancies in calculations are permissible, up to 1-1.5 cm. Beams are placed every 60 cm.
• The beams impregnated with an antiseptic are placed at the same distance and fixed. Then the boards are attached to the Mauerlat with self-tapping screws. Planks are laid on the finished structure and the rafters are mounted. They are attached to the beams with nails, screws or bolts.

Attention! When using metal tiles, it is not necessary to make a crate.

Extension to a wooden house projects of structures from various materials

To understand what to make a new room from, you need to decide what it will be used for. For example, for a light terrace, a small wooden or iron fence is enough. If you need a summer room, a frame is enough. This design is one of the lightest and does not require large investments. She also quickly assembles, so even a person who has no experience in construction can make an extension with his own hands.

Since the room is cool enough, the fasteners to the main structure should not go through, otherwise the temperature in the adjacent room will be low. The outside is made of vinyl. Inside, for decoration, lining is used, which is varnished. You can make other coverage at the discretion of the owner of the house. For insulation, polystyrene foam or mats are used. The former absorb less moisture, but the latter is inexpensive.

Also, an extension to a wooden house is made from:

• timber;
• foam blocks;
• bricks.

Attention! The material for an extension for a wooden house should be lightweight. A structure that is too heavy can compromise the integrity of the wall to which it is attached.

From a bar

This extension is lightweight and highly durable. A wooden house is in harmony with an additional building made of timber, therefore this material is often chosen. Another advantage is thermal insulation. Wood keeps the temperature well even in winter, so it is used for the construction of residential buildings. The timber saturates the room with phytoncides - biological substances that destroy most bacteria in the room and create a pleasant aroma.

A structure made of this material is heavier than a frame one, so the foundation must withstand a heavy load. Roofing material is used as waterproofing. To keep the walls strong, they are fixed on dowels made of wood or metal. When drawing up a technical plan for an extension, it must be borne in mind that both materials change volumes due to heat and cold. Also, moisture will affect the structure.

For outbuildings, a factory beam is more often used, because it:

• has spikes and grooves for them - this simplifies the assembly of the structure;
• all parts are firmly glued from several components, the fibers of which are directed in different directions, which reduces the final deformation of the product;
• all surfaces are sanded and have a beautiful pattern that does not have to be hidden behind paint (impregnation is enough);
• the parts are dried using a special technology, due to which the burs does not deteriorate and remains within the stated dimensions.

Attention! Wood with natural moisture requires more maintenance.

From foam blocks

Such an extension is more durable than timber, but less suitable for wooden houses. Foam blocks do not weigh much. The premises can be used immediately after the end of construction. The number of additional elements in the structure should be reduced so that the load on the ground does not exceed the norm. Foam blocks have good insulation, so the material is chosen for living quarters.

The best material for steps for stairs in the street and in the house A beautiful comfortable staircase is a home decoration. Convenience, as well as safety, depends on the size and height of the steps….

Gas silicate blocks do not deform with temperature drops. Their surface is smooth enough for painting and wallpapering. Blocks do not rot like wood. They are also non-flammable, which makes them suitable for homes with many children. They won't start a fire by dropping a match. Immediately after the completion of the installation of the walls, windows and doors can be installed in them.

Brick

Unlike foam blocks, this material does not have to be reinforced with reinforcement. It is strong enough, and the stability of the structure depends only on the foundation and the quality of the cement. The problem of brick construction is poor insulation. Insulation is made from the outside to prevent dew from entering the room. To protect the extension from this, polymer plates are inserted between the walls, which block moisture.

The procedure for building an extension with your own hands

The first thing that needs to be done before making an extension to a brick house is to remove all garbage, sod and plan the site at the site where the annex to the building will be erected.

Stage of arrangement of the foundation tape

The scheme for the construction of a strip foundation is no different from the manufacture of a shallow base for any other building. In this case, the foundation for the annex will be carried out according to the scheme of a closed rectangle. Initially, using a cord, you will need to mark the center line, and then outline the edges of the future trench for the foundation.

The depth of the shallow tape should be at least 60 cm, width 50-60 cm. The defining value is the depth, if the soil is too soft and wet, you can increase the depth to 70 cm. In this case, you will need to make drainage and a line of groundwater descent from the foundation.

At the planning stage, boundaries or contours are applied to the walls of the house, along which the extension will fit into the dimensions of future walls. So far, the knocked-down formwork panels are being displayed according to the marks. The tops of the shield walls are reinforced with spacers. Next comes the laying of reinforcement and preparation for pouring concrete. In order to provide the annex with an additional reserve of stiffness, the soil is graded inside the perimeter of the foundation. After backfilling with gravel and laying the reinforcement, the site under the annex must be poured no later than four hours after the foundation tape has been concreted.

The result is a hybrid version of the foundation, slab-tape, it has sufficient rigidity to make an extension in the form of an open box. Part of the wall of the extension will be replaced by the facade of the house. The poured concrete of the foundation must be covered with foil and periodically moistened with water. Until the foundation has hardened, the concrete is cut with a ruler or plastering rule in order to get a perfectly horizontal plane, if this is not done now, the extension to the house will turn out to be with a slope.

Erection of walls, how to make an annex as stable as possible

The height of the slab above the ground is about 10 cm, this is not enough to protect the extension from the foam block from ground and rain water, therefore experts recommend laying the basement out of red brick to a height of 25-30 cm.Immediately after laying the basement, the foundation of the extension is treated with coating waterproofing and glued roofing material.

The walls of the extension are laid out on a special adhesive composition that provides good adhesion and at the same time reduces the thickness of the seam. In the construction of the extension, instead of the rear wall, the brickwork of the house appears. As a result, the annex to the house turns out to be quite tough even without the use of fittings.

The foam block is quite simply cut with a hacksaw for metal, so there are practically no problems with tying the rows of the extension. For the manufacture of a window opening in the annex, ready-made lintels made of foam concrete are used or they are cast into formwork with reinforcement with a steel bar. A doorway is formed in a similar way. Even on a reinforced foundation, the annex will shrink for another year, so reinforcement of any windows and doorways in this case is mandatory.

The walls of the extension are thoroughly cleaned of excess glue, and the defective seams are filled with glue and rubbed with a spatula. In fact, it turns out an extension with perfectly smooth and even walls. An extension made of foam concrete must be plastered or covered with "bark beetle", the protective coating can be replaced with siding or painting with acrylic paint, and the foundation can be covered with a blind area.

Annex roof

The arrangement of the rafter system and the roof of the extension begins with the laying of the ceiling beams. Previously, Mauerlat boards are laid out on the walls of the extension, and metal squares are stuffed on the wall of the house, on which the ceiling beams will rest at one end.

At the next stage, rafters are laid on the beams of the extension. The slope of the roof is small, so the construction of a pitched roof is as simple as possible.

A cornice strip is stuffed along the perimeter of the extension and the ceiling is sewn up with a wooden strip. Next, a vapor barrier film and mineral wool are laid on the ceiling of the extension.

Sheathing boards are stuffed onto the roof rafters, after which the film windshield is stretched, and the metal tile can be laid.

How to make a foundation for an extension

For attached premises, 4 types of bases are used, depending on the weight of the structure and the quality of the soil:

• columnar - for lightweight structures on a wooden frame;
• pile-screw foundation is used on subsiding soils for the installation of structures made of wood and metal with a small mass;
• tape - for heavy stone buildings;
• A reinforced concrete monolithic slab is poured over the entire area of ​​the attached part, erected from bricks or blocks on unstable soils.

Example of a columnar base made of concrete

A solid concrete slab is rarely used due to its high cost, and it is better to entrust the twisting of screw piles to professionals in this field. To independently attach a light veranda or summer gazebo, a columnar base is recommended. For brickwork or walls made of gas blocks, it is better to pour concrete tape, we will consider these 2 methods further.

Traditional strip foundation

Columnar base

A properly made foundation of this type is cheaper than tape and is well suited for light structures. Its device begins with marking the site and marking the installation points of the future vertical racks of the frame. The pillars, and therefore the soles for them, should be placed in 1.5 m increments, as shown in the diagram.

The further procedure is as follows:

1. Dig square holes 50 x 50 cm in size at the designated points, deepening by 70-80 cm. The task is to put support on solid, stable soil, so the bottom of the pit must be tamped.
2. Add 15 cm of sand or fine gravel and compact again. Pour the platform out of concrete M150 at the bottom, and after hardening, cover with roofing material in 2 layers (waterproofing).
3. Lay out the 38 x 38 cm square pillars of red stoneware brick to the required height.
4. Apply a bituminous primer to the walls of the posts or glue a weld-on waterproofing. Lay the roofing felt on the top of the support again.
5. Cover the sinuses around the foundation with earth and lightly tamp.

Strip foundation device

Under the base of this type, you need to dig a trench along the contour of the future room, which is shown below in the photo. The width of the ditch should be 15 cm larger than the thickness of the brick or foam block wall. The depth depends on the location of the stable soil layer and ranges from 50-100 cm. The walls of the pit must be cleaned up, and the bottom must be tamped and filled with a sand cushion 100 mm thick.

The order of work is as follows:

1. Compact the poured sand and install a wooden panel formwork with external supports and internal braces (it is possible from studs with nuts), which do not allow the sides to move under the weight of the concrete. The height of the formwork is not lower than the basement level of the existing building.
2. Tie or weld corrugated reinforcement frames with a diameter of 8-12 mm to make cells 10 x 15 cm. Install them in a trench on supports 50 mm high.
3. Prepare concrete mix M150 in the following proportions: cement M400 - 1 part, dry sand - 3 parts, crushed stone with a fraction of up to 40 mm - 5 volumes.
4. Perform layer-by-layer pouring of the strip foundation to the height of the base of the house. It is highly desirable to compact the concrete with special vibrators (rent).
5. Remove the formwork after 7 days, and continue work after 3 weeks, when the concrete mixture has hardened.

If you want to make the extension warm initially, then after the foundation has solidified, insulate it from the outside with polystyrene foam, or better with penoplex. Lay drainage along the bottom of the ditch and fill the sinuses with soil, then pour the blind area with insulation, as shown in the diagram. For an unheated extension, treat the base with bitumen or glue waterproofing (for example, from the well-known brand Technonikol).Lay the roofing material on top of the base in 2 layers and start forming the floors. You will learn about all stages of work by watching the video:

We build an extension ourselves

So, above we examined the types of extensions, and from what materials, in fact, they are built. We will now try to work out an algorithm for its construction, common for all types of an extension, so that, if necessary, we can start work on our own.

First of all, before erecting such a structure, you should determine for yourself what the purpose will be for this additional area to the house. And do not rely on the usual "We will see there!" Indeed, a lot depends on the purpose of the future extension. For example, if your house has a high foundation, and you are going to place a guest bedroom or a kitchen with a dining room on the newly built area, then this annex will have to be raised to the same level. This means that it is necessary to make a similarly solid foundation to the level of the main building

But a garage or an outbuilding does not require this at all.
It is also important to decide on various kinds of communications. Again, it depends on the purpose whether it will be necessary to conduct only electricity in this new room or whether it will be necessary to supply water supply and sewerage here.
An archival moment is the joining of the main structure and the extension, for whatever purpose it is built

Any extension should be an organic continuation of the main building, should not give cracks, its foundation should not sag.
The roof also causes many difficulties. And here you need to consider the following: the roof of the attached segment should be lowered just below the level of the main roof of the house. The overlap formed in this case will not allow the moisture of atmospheric precipitation to fall into the junction, and, therefore, inside the room.

Foundation construction

The most important stage of construction is the construction of the foundation. Even the strongest walls made of modern and expensive materials will turn out to be useless on a bad and flimsy foundation, so the answer to the question of how to make an extension to a house correctly is to choose the right foundation. There are three main types of foundations:

• monolithic reinforced concrete, tape;
• pile;
• columnar.

Foundation for an extension

The first option is universal, it is suitable for all types of buildings, the same applies to the columnar foundation. The pile version is suitable for the addition of a light veranda or utility room, which is insignificant in its weight and massiveness. This option is distinguished by its ease of implementation and the pace of construction.

The first step to pouring the foundation should be research work on the study of the soil. This is done by specialized enterprises, it is extremely difficult to do it on their own, and the costs of the services of these specialists are incomparably small compared to the cost of losing the entire extension.

After issuing recommendations on the type, depth of the foundation and the need to tie it to the main building, they start marking on the spot. The contour is measured out very carefully, observing the geometry of the corners, so as not to adjust the trench during work.

Start digging a trench from the lowest angle, maintaining the required depth. It is best to immediately put temporary supports to prevent the walls from collapsing. When the excavation is complete, a cushion of sand and rubble is placed at the bottom of the trench. Sand layer 100-150 mm thick. well compacted, and the same layer of rubble is poured on top. Since we are building an extension to the house with our own hands, all work is done efficiently and conscientiously.

Floor device

The next step is laying the waterproofing film and installing the reinforcement structure. The film should extend beyond the edges of the trench, and the reinforcement structure should repeat the shape of the foundation, its dimensions and height. Installing and securing timber formwork will be the last step before pouring concrete.

The concrete pouring technology can be different, but usually the algorithm is as follows: first, 1/3 of the trench is poured, and after hardening, it is added to 1/2.After the second layer has hardened, the rest of the foundation can be poured to the very top of the formwork. During pouring, it is desirable to create additional vibration so that no air remains inside the monolith. For proper solidification, concrete is periodically sprayed with water.

The crown of this fundamental creation should be the installation of waterproofing on the entire structure.

Roofing material, tar and even liquid rubber: the choice is now huge, it is important to observe the application technology

The foundation for a veranda made of wood or foam blocks

For all of the above options for the veranda, you can make a shallow strip foundation. How to do it is described in detail in the video.

We advise you to watch the following video, which describes all the technological features of the strip foundation. The advice of professionals will be of great help in the future construction of a veranda or insulated enclosed extension.

It is important to take into account that the levels of the foundations of the main structure and its future extension must coincide. The second important issue is the attachment of an extension to a wooden or brick building.

It cannot be made too rigid, because after a certain time the veranda will certainly shrink. The expansion joint will help prevent cracks or even destruction in the future.

There are 2 ways to attach a wooden extension (timber or frame) to a wooden building:

1. You need to cut a groove in the log. In width, it should be a third of the thickness of the bar. A spike should be made in the bar to fit the groove. Then both parts are connected and fastened with staples for greater reliability. The latter should be hammered at an angle. Keep in mind that the extension will shrink and the mount will sag slightly.

2. With another method of fastening at the corners of the house and the extension, vertical beams are built up, which, when the veranda is attached, simply go into one another like a tongue. As such a "counter" bar, you can also use staples at the rate of 3-4 pieces per one abutment.

Preparatory work

The construction of an extension to the house begins with preparatory measures. Carefully inspect the site for construction, remove all debris and vegetation from it, mark the area and stock up on the following materials and tools:

• metal pipes for supports;
• components for concrete mix - sand, cement, gravel;
• self-tapping screws, nails, metal corner for fastening;
• boards for logs 5 cm thick and 15 cm wide;
• perfectly finished boards for finishing the floor;
• natural wooden wall paneling;
• bar 50 mm;
• concrete mixer;
• hammer, screwdriver, building level, rope and circular saw;
• block house under a log for cladding an extension from the outside;
• metal roof tiles.

Be sure to provide a drainage system under the extension. To do this, tamp the ground under the veranda and make a slope at this place for water drainage. Below is a step-by-step instruction for the construction of an extension.

6 Insulation is a mandatory operation for an extension

Mainly mineral wool and polystyrene are used to insulate buildings. Minvats resist fire, low thermal conductivity. They have a low weight, a form of release convenient for consumers: rolls, mats. Another popular insulation is polystyrene foam. Its advantages: it is inexpensive, it is not afraid of fungus, moisture, decay. But there are two big drawbacks: rodents are very fond of it, it emits toxic gases in case of fire.

We carry out insulation from the inside in the following sequence:

1. 1. We mount the waterproofing, having previously cut the strips of the required dimensions. We fasten with staples, using a construction stapler, so as to ensure an overlap. We sheathe the frame completely, driving in staples every 10 cm.
2. 2.We put insulation between the racks. We provide a snug fit to wooden structures, close the seams between the individual elements of the insulating material, overlapping the next layer.
3. 3. We fix the vapor barrier, even if we use foam. The fact is that it is necessary to protect not only the insulation, but also the tree. We fix it in the same way as for waterproofing.
4. 4. We sheathe the walls from the inside. We use drywall on a perfectly flat frame or OSB, if there are irregularities. It is more rigid and smoothes out flaws.

Remained interior and exterior decoration, where there is room for the owner's imagination. The frame extension is erected quickly, cheaply, it has been serving for more than a decade, and it can be built practically without outside help.

1 Save money without sacrificing quality - space requirements and materials

Poorly thought-out design of the extension over time will force something to be altered or completed, attached to the country house. In order not to get into such a situation, we think over all the nuances, weigh the advantages and disadvantages of our idea. We start by choosing the location and size.

Each type of additional room has its own specific features in connection with the use, requirements for insulation, waterproofing and others. If a decision is made to build an additional living room in the country, then this is tantamount to the construction of a small house. It is required to reliably insulate, to prevent the appearance of dampness. If you plan to stay in cold weather, you need to think about heating.

Kitchens and bathrooms are another common type of annex. The requirements for them are practically the same. First of all, we think about engineering communications and bring them down even before the start of construction. Sewerage and water pipes are much more convenient to lay before pouring the foundation than to break through under it later. Floor waterproofing requires special attention. We are thinking about insulation, but if the kitchen is planned to be summer, then you can save on this.

The house is expanded with a veranda annex. The structure is light, serves for summer holidays, protects the entrance from wind, snow and rain. It is carried out in many versions: from the simplest in the form of a boardwalk, low walls with a roof on pillars, to a complex one with walls, doors, windows. No insulation is required, otherwise it will no longer be a veranda, but waterproofing of the foundation is necessary.

An extension to the house should be in harmony with the main structure. If the house has an external finish, then it will be easy to repeat it in the attached room. Wood goes well with all materials, which looks great even without additional finishing. The best option would be a frame structure:

• is being built quickly, literally in a few months;
• does not require a capital foundation, because it is light;
• without special knowledge and skills, it is available for construction with your own hands;
• will cost less.

The base for the extension is made on the same level as the foundation of the house. When attaching the structure to the house, we do not do it tightly - over time it will shrink - but we leave the expansion joint. In this respect, frame structures are favorably distinguished, which do not give vertical shrinkage.

If the structure is attached to the front wall, the roof continues the main roof and is pitched. We choose the slope so that the snow does not linger and the rain flows down. If this is an extension to the side wall, then the roof repeats the configuration of the main

The roofing material is the same as on the roof of the house, if different, it is important that they are combined

2 Columnar base - fast, cheap, reliable

For the columnar foundation of the extension to the house, concrete, brick or their combination is used. It is made mainly for a living room or veranda. If used for a kitchen or a bathroom, thermal insulation of the input of utilities into the house will be required. Since the protection concerns on average half a meter of pipes, you can go for such costs, it will still come out cheaper than a strip foundation. The floor is made of boards, for concrete you will need a lot of backfill material, a fence around the perimeter.

We start by marking the site, the installation sites of the pillars are one and a half meters from each other. A separate pit 50 × 50 cm is dug under each pillar, the depth is greater than the freezing of the soil. At the top of the pits we expand a little: on each side about 10 cm. The bottom is covered with a layer of sand 10 cm, carefully rammed, then rubble or broken brick, which is also rammed.

We spread the film for waterproofing, bring the ends to the surface. If we plan to build pillars of bricks, pour a little concrete mortar for the base into each hole and wait for it to set. When concrete pillars are planned, we tie the reinforcement at the top along the entire height, lower it into the pits. We provide equal distance between the walls. We put pieces of brick under the bottom to raise the reinforcement by about 4 cm.

We make the formwork for the basement, inside which we run the film. Pour the concrete layer by layer, pierce each layer several times with a rod so that air bubbles come out

It is important not to rush, it is better to wait until it grabs, then continue pouring. We carefully align the top of the pillar and wait about two weeks until the concrete hardens

All this time we pour heavily with water, cover with burlap or film.

When the foundation has acquired the required strength, the formwork is removed. We warm up the bituminous mastic, apply it to the posts and immediately glue the pieces of roofing material for waterproofing. There is a space left between the pillars, which it is advisable to fill up in order to insulate the floor. We use ordinary earth mixed with rubble or pieces of brick. We fall asleep in layers of 10 cm, ram. The technology for erecting a strip foundation is practically no different, but unlike a columnar foundation, it is solid.