How to fix the lining

Calculation of the amount of material

Calculating the number of lining is not so difficult. If for some reason you decide not to use special calculator programs, then you can do all the calculations yourself.

For example, let's take a small room, the lengths of the walls of which are 2 m and 3 m, and the height is 2.7 m.

Next, you need to calculate a number of required values.

• Wall areas. For this, in turn, we multiply each of the lengths by the height: 2 * 2.7 = 5.4 sq. m. and 3 * 2.7 = 8.1 sq. m.
• Total area. To do this, you need to add up the values ​​obtained and multiply by 2 (after all, there are walls in room 4): 8.1 + 5.4 = 13.5 sq. m.
• The area of ​​door and window openings. Suppose that the room has a 1x1 m window and a 0.7x2 m door. Then their areas will be equal to 1 sq. m. and 1.4 sq. m respectively.
• The area covered by the clapboard. This area without openings: 13.5-1-1.4 = 11.1 sq. m.
• Lamella area. Dimensions vary, but for example, let's take 96x2700 mm. We translate into meters - 0.096x2.7 m. The area of ​​the lamella is 0.2592 sq. m.
• Number of lamellas. Now we divide the area covered by the clapboard by the area of ​​the lamella: 11.1 / 0.2592 = 42.8. Rounding up, we get 43 lamellas. You should also lay 10% on marriage.

Types of lining by material of manufacture

Wooden lining is the best of the options, although it is not devoid of certain drawbacks. The advantage of this material is that wood is safe, traditionally used in the construction of human housing. Therefore, many people like houses finished with wood, even if they are built from concrete foam blocks.

Wooden lining is a safe and environmentally friendly material

The disadvantage of wooden lining is susceptibility to twisting after some time, especially under the influence of moisture and temperature extremes. This material can dry and crack, it is prone to rotting and fungus easily settles on it. The wood is also flammable. But this is easy to fix.

Plastic lining does not get wet and does not rot

Plastic lining is devoid of some of the drawbacks of wood - it does not get wet, does not rot, and periodic treatments are not needed to care for it. But the material from which it is made may contain substances harmful to humans. Therefore, it is worth purchasing plastic only if it has the appropriate sanitary and hygienic and fire certificates. The latter is also very important, because the plastic itself burns, while emitting poisonous smoke. But there are varieties that lack this. It is also not recommended to use plastic lining in rooms with high temperatures, for example, in a steam room.

Another drawback of the material is its fragility.

At the same time, the plastic lining has an undoubted advantage, for which it is appreciated - cheapness.

Metal lining can be made of steel or aluminum

Metal lining is classified according to the material from which it is made:

• steel;
• aluminum.

The difference is obvious. Steel needs protection against corrosion, but it is cheaper than aluminum. But in both cases, metal:

• does not rot;
• does not deform without the application of external force;
• does not emit harmful substances.

The disadvantage is that such material is easily heated in the sun. Therefore, it is better not to stand next to such a house.

Fastening with finishing studs

Finishing nails are special nails of a small thickness. They easily enter the material without causing cracking. Their distinctive feature is a reduced cap, which is easily recessed into the thickness of the part. Unlike construction nails, finishing nails cannot withstand increased loads and are used only for secret fastening of finishing materials in structures that will not shrink, tear and bend. This installation method is not suitable for arranging temporary coverings, since it is almost impossible to remove a thin nail from the panel.

Finishing studs are available with different types of coatings and are selected depending on the location and type of finish:

• black - fasteners made of steel without an additional anti-corrosion layer for work in completely dry rooms;
• galvanized - an inexpensive and most popular variety, a zinc layer gives reliable protection, products are suitable for use in all types of structures that do not have direct contact with water;
• with a copper, brass, chrome or bronze coating - more expensive types of fasteners that can be used in rooms with high humidity and in open spaces, with increased requirements for aesthetic finish, when working with expensive types of wooden lining.

Any novice craftsman who knows how to use a hammer can handle the job. Also, during the installation process, a doboiner is used - the device allows you to drown the head of the carnation without damaging the material.

Using a finishing nail docker

With the vertical arrangement of the panels (the crate must be horizontal), installation is carried out in the following sequence:

• Put the first part with a spike in the corner (for reliability, it is better to fix the first and last part with self-tapping screws, close the caps with decorative plugs to match the panel).
• Attach the finishing studs to the battens of the sheathing through the groove at an angle of 45 degrees using a hammer with light blows.
• Insert the second panel with a spike into the groove of the first one, lightly knock the panel with a hammer through a piece of lining or a block. Check the level of evenness of the masonry.
• Attach through the groove with nails to the crate, etc.

Fastening with a horizontal arrangement is carried out using a similar technology.

How to install a frame for the walls of a house with your own hands?

To install the frame, you will need to perform the following actions:

1. Take measurements from surfaces that will be faced with wooden canvases.
2. Calculate the length and number of timber elements that will be required for the lathing.
3. Saw the bars according to the calculations.
4. It is advisable that the wall is first leveled - this will prevent the appearance of irregularities on the surface of the cladding. If the differences are insignificant, then in places where the timber does not touch the wall, it is necessary to insert sealing pads.
5. For the lining, the lathing step is calculated. For a standard domestic material, this value is about 0.5. However, a wider and sturdier panel can be mounted on bars located 0.7 m apart.
6. It is necessary to observe the perpendicularity of the lathing structure to the lamellas to be installed.
7. It is best to mark out by means of a stretched fishing line between adjacent corners of the working wall, and the location of the guide should be carefully set by the building level.
8. The bottom or left element is fixed first, and the fixing of the bars continues along the perimeter.
9. No more often than after 0.4-0.5 m, screws are screwed in to fix the bars on the wall.
10. With a drill with a special drill for wood of a slightly smaller diameter than future fasteners, through holes are made in the batten strip so that the wall is slightly scratched. Then, in the mode of a punch with a drill for metal or concrete, holes are drilled for the dowel covers already without the attached bar.
11. Plastic elements are inserted into drilled slots, which are closed with a bar to match the holes. Then screws or pancake screws are inserted into all drilled holes and screwed in.

Important
Most often, clapboard cladding is performed in a vertical or horizontal direction. But recently, diagonal cladding has become popular due to the original look of the room.

But it is more difficult to mount a crate under it, as well as to cut the canvas itself.

home, balconies and loggias

How to correctly install lathing for lining for walls, see the following video:

The installation of the lathing is a key step in determining the quality of the laid cladding in the future.If at least some element of the supporting structure fails, deteriorates or turns out to be of poor quality, then the external decorative qualities of the clapboard finish will be lost. Therefore, the layout of the room, the calculation of the number and length of all structural elements, including wooden lining, must be carried out as accurately and efficiently as possible.

Varieties of lining

Depending on the material from which the lining is made, there are:

• wooden lining,
• plastic lining.

Wooden lining is used for installation on both internal and external walls, structures such as:

• residential buildings,
• country cottages,
• cottages,
• gazebos,
• saunas,
• baths, etc.

The main advantage of installing wooden lining is that there is no need for preparatory wall finishing: leveling with putty or cement mortar.

The room in which the wooden lining is installed has optimal humidity, since the tree has the properties of moisture absorption at high humidity and moisture release at low humidity.

For the manufacture of wooden lining, edged boards are used:

• ash,
• beech,
• wasp,
• spruce,
• alder,
• cedar.

1. Lining "extra-class" or "zero-class" - has an ideal appearance and the absence of roughness on the wood.

2. Lining "A-class" - for every 150 cm of such lining there is one knots, there is also one resin pocket and several cracks.

3. B-class lining has four knots for every 150 cm, several cracks and resin pockets.

4. Lining "C-class" is distinguished by the presence of resin bags, blue stains, stripes, mechanical damage. Such lining has a lower cost compared to other classes.

Plastic lining is used for finishing:

• indoor premises,
• building facades,
• roof overhangs,
• ceilings.

The advantages of plastic lining:

• excellent quality characteristics,
• high level of strength,
• easy installation,
• original design and appearance,
• good sound and heat insulation properties,
• UV resistance,
• long service lines that exceed 10 years,
• ease of care.

Plastic lining is divided into:

• laminated panels that display the structure of wood, metal, granite or marble;
• monochromatic panels of various colors and shades;
• panels with or without seams.

Plastic lining is a versatile finishing material that is easy to install, has a large number of different textures and colors and looks good in any type of room.

Depending on the shape of the profile, the lining is divided into:

• panel-type lining, which is characterized by simplicity and imitation of a wooden bar;
• eurolining - has a deep tongue-and-groove connection, the size of the spike is increased, such a lining design provides additional ventilation and moisture evaporation, eurolining is used for finishing the facade of buildings;
• calm-phagon - used in interior decoration, has a perfectly smooth surface;
• lining - American - differs in grooves on the inside and is installed with an overlap, due to such a connection there are practically no seams between the lining, such lining is only wooden and is used for exterior decoration;
• the block house lining has the shape of convex bars and imitates a wooden building.

How to fix the lining to the wall?

Traditional lining does not give up its positions over time, but, on the contrary, is gaining more and more popularity and is increasingly being used to decorate the internal and external walls of buildings. Installation of this material on the walls can be done independently, if you know the main stages of the technological process - this is not difficult. But here, too, there are some peculiarities in the manufacture of the frame, fastening the panels and the choice of fasteners.

To fix this type of finishing material, a hinged system is used, which implies the mandatory implementation of a frame for the lining. Only in rare cases, when the walls are perfectly flat, can you dispense with the lathing and carry out the installation of finishing directly on them. We will describe in detail how to fix the lining to the wall of the house in this article.

Required materials and tools

As fasteners for mounting the lining, you can use:

It all depends on the materials from which the walls of the house are made. For example, dowels are only used for brick walls.

To complete the lathing, you will need wooden slats, the width of which depends on the presence / absence of heat and sound insulation materials, as well as on the state of unevenness of the wall surface. In order for the lining made of wood or plastic on the walls to look perfectly even, all the battens of the lathing must be positioned so that they are in the same plane. Therefore, one cannot do without a building level, an ordinary ruler and plumb lines. With their help, the alignment of the walls and the correspondence of the frame elements with each other will be performed.

Frame - the basis for the lining

The finishing material can be attached in two ways:

It is necessary to decide on the method of fastening in advance, since the implementation of the lathing completely depends on this. If it is planned to install the material in a vertical way, then the frame for the lining must be made horizontal. And vice versa.

The distance between adjacent frame beams should not be less than 40 centimeters, but it should not exceed 80 centimeters either. Also, the bars are laid along the perimeter of window and door openings.

Leveling the surface under the frame can be done with putty or, if the walls are curved strongly, then by lining wedges under the frame slats. Of course, all installed elements are checked by the building level.

Wooden lining installation technology

The fastening of the finishing material starts from the left corner, going towards the right, and the first panel is mounted to the surface after careful alignment. If necessary, then its edges are trimmed with a plane. The first panel is attached to the frame especially firmly, and then the following elements follow. After about every ten panels, it is necessary to check the absence of deviations using a level. The use of clamps, as fasteners, allows you to get a flat surface, without chips and cracks, on the surface of which the caps will not be visible, as is the case with nails or screws.

With the horizontal method of fixing the lining, the panels should be placed strictly perpendicular to the floor, installation starts from the bottom. At the same time, the spikes should be at the top, and, accordingly, the grooves should be at the bottom. This method of mounting the lining will not allow moisture to accumulate at the joints, which means that the material will last longer and will not undergo rotting, pathogenic microbes.

Plastic lining - installation features

The plastic lining is attached to the same frame as the wood trim. But, first of all, the first plastic profile is installed here, which serves as a guide element. It should be located in the corner, strictly vertically, so in this case you will need a plumb line. Following the first, we install the second, leading into the groove of the first panel.

After this profile has been attached with the help of staples, the insert of the plastic lining begins, which is mounted using a simple spike-groove technology. During work, it is necessary to check each panel for deviation using a building level. Having reached the parallel corner, you must first fix the finishing profile, in the same way as the first element was mounted, and only then insert the last PVC panel. This element does not need fastening.

How to fix the lining to the wall? Traditional lining does not give up its positions over time, but, on the contrary, is gaining more and more popularity and is increasingly being used to decorate the internal and external walls of buildings. Installation of this ...

The sequence of work on the installation of lining on the ceiling

The process of installing plastic panels on the ceiling practically does not differ from wall cladding, with the exception of small nuances.

Accessories for plastic lining.

1. It is advisable to do the lathing with a step of 30-40 cm to prevent sagging of the panels.
2. After installing the battens around the perimeter of the room, it is necessary to install the fastening strip. It is a plastic corner, one side of which is smooth, and the other has a groove. With the smooth side, you need to attach the fastening strip to the crate using self-tapping screws with a press washer in increments of 25 cm.
3. The ceiling plinth is cut to the length of the wall, from which the installation of plastic panels will begin, and corners are installed on it along the edges. The skirting board prepared in this way snaps into place on the fastening strip.
4. A gap is formed between the plinth and the fastening strip, into which the plastic panel is installed with the wide end. The other side is attached to the crate. Further, the installation is similar to the installation of the panels to the wall (measure, cut off, snap to the previous one, fasten the opposite side).
5. In the places where the luminaires will be installed, it is necessary to perform reinforcement. To do this, from the rail from which the crate was made, it is necessary to cut the slats of the required length and fix them to the ceiling and to the crate using self-tapping screws. It is necessary to drill a hole in the panel to be installed and lead the wire for the lamp outside. It is necessary to remember about safety precautions. You must first disconnect the electrical wiring and make sure that there is no voltage using the indicator.
6. The last panel adjusts to fit in both width and length.
7. The installation ends with the installation of the ceiling plinth to the fixing strip.

The installation of plastic panels is not much different from the installation of ordinary wooden lining or MDF panels and does not require any special knowledge or skills. Sheathing walls or ceilings with plastic clapboard is one of the "clean" finishing methods.

Caring for plastic products is easy. They can be washed with any cleaning agent found in the house.

To decide whether to decorate a room with plastic clapboard or not, evaluate based on specific conditions, the pros and cons of this material.

Tips & Tricks

If you decide to sheathe the walls in the house with clapboard with your own hands, then you should adhere to some simple recommendations:

• During installation, make sure that no ugly gaps remain between the lamellas. You can avoid these defects if you constantly monitor the level of material laying.
• When calculating the required amount of material, do not forget about elements such as doors and windows. You need to build a frame around them. Slopes from the lining can also be built with your own hands. The main thing is to adhere to the correct dimensional parameters.

• If you want to freshen up the atmosphere, then you need to form various geometric images on the floors with your own hands. To do this, you need to adhere to several options for the layout of the lamellas at once.
• In winter, it is not recommended to put the lining on the walls. It is better to postpone such work until summer or spring, so that the material does not undergo deformation.
• If you have chosen a lining for finishing, which has the shape of a rounded log, then you should install it with the groove up. This is necessary to hide the joining of individual parts.

• Many users are sure that the lining can only be mounted on a metal profile. Of course, such structures can be used, but they are more suitable for those cases when the floors in the room have too strong irregularities and differences.
• The diagonal upholstery of the walls with clapboard looks original. It should be made on a frame in which the racks are located at a closer distance to each other.

After installation, the lining will need regular maintenance. To do this, you will need a primer for wood, antiseptic compounds, bio oil, alkyd varnish, antipyrine, which forms a refractory layer and other similar substances.

According to experts, the processing of the lining must be done before its direct installation.
When choosing a suitable material, pay attention to its class, since it is recommended to sheathe living quarters with some slats, and outbuildings with others. Of course, for the interior cladding it is best to use the highest quality materials of the "extra" class.
Stock up on all the tools you need in advance

Self-tapping screws should be screwed in with a screwdriver, as this will take a minimum of time. However, do not forget to be careful. Work carefully so as not to damage the finishing material.

• In areas with high humidity, the cladding should be laid so that the lamellas do not enter the grooves until they stop. Thanks to this technique, the material will not undergo deformation.
• Do not hit the grooves with a hammer. This can lead to serious material deterioration.

The method of attaching a wooden lining to different types of kleimers is described in the video.

What it is?

Kleimer is the same bracket with which various panels for finishing work are fastened with a secret connection. The result is a plane with no visible connection elements. Kleimer is used to connect laminate, decking, porcelain stoneware, timber, block house, wooden lining, PVC panels, wall and MDF panels.

One side of it is inserted into the part of the panel where there is a groove, and the other side is attached with a self-tapping screw or nails to the crate or a specially prepared surface of the wall or ceiling. Therefore, this mounting fastener itself becomes invisible on the cladding surface and is located from the inside out.

This connection is made of spring steel or galvanized iron and aluminum. Consists of a platform with holes for nails or self-tapping screws and a protruding part bent at a right angle. This protrusion is called a tongue, its distance from the base will depend on what kind of material the clamp is used to attach. Depending on the application, there are 6 types of markings, they are measured in millimeters and show the height of the mount from the platform.

Calculation of the amount of material

When choosing a lining, you need to figure out the amount of finishing material that you need. As a rule, the cost of wooden lamellas is indicated in square meters (less often in cubic meters). However, an elementary mathematical calculation in this case will not work, since the quadrature will be influenced by such parameters as the length of the lamellas, the height of the floors in the house, the dimensions of the door and window openings.

There are two ways to help calculate the number of lining.

• Intuitive. Following this method, you should calculate the perimeter of the surface area that you plan to trim with lamellas. From here you need to calculate the dimensions of the openings. Add 10-30% waste to the result. This calculation method is simple, but not the most accurate.
• Mathematical. This method of calculation is more scrupulous. To do this, you need to count the lamellas one by one, taking into account their length and width, as well as the dimensions of the openings. For the calculation, the surface length parameter should be divided by the lamella width. So you can determine the required number of lining. As a result of all calculations, it will be possible to obtain a fairly accurate value. In this case, no more than 10% can be left for waste.

Calculation of the required amount of material

Before going to the store, you need to decide on the required amount of material.If to calculate the required amount of wallpaper, it is enough to simply divide the area of ​​the walls by the area of ​​the roll and in some cases add 10% to the "report", then when calculating the required amount of lining, the situation is somewhat more complicated.

The lining is produced in lengths of 6, 4, 3, 2.7, 2.1 and 2 meters. Ideally, when your wall length is equal to or slightly less than one of the wall paneling lengths on the market. But what if it is significantly smaller than one of the sizes, but at the same time slightly larger than the other. Let us analyze this case with an example.

Let's say you need to sheathe a wall 3 meters 12 centimeters long. For this purpose, you can purchase a lining with a length of 4 meters, but in this case, almost a quarter of the material will be unclaimed (in other words, you will buy lining 25% more than you need). Another option is to buy boards 3 meters long and supplement each of them with a small piece. But, you must admit, such "short stacks" will not look very beautiful. Therefore, the best option in this case would be to buy a lining 2 meters 10 centimeters long. Thus, we can cover three rows of lining with two boards (one whole and one cut in half) and the amount of waste in this case will be minimal. Based on this, it will be enough to divide the height of the room by the height of one lining board and multiply the resulting result by 1.5. That is how many boards 2.1 meters long will be needed for sheathing this wall.

An example of laying lining "three boards in two rows"