Plywood box: how to make a plywood box with your own hands? Varieties with lids and pull-out cases, dimensions, fittings and drawings

Properties of a wooden box

Why, despite the appearance of cheaper and simpler competitors, does an ordinary wooden box not lose its popularity? It's simple - the answer to this question lies in the unique properties and characteristics of such a container.

Table. Comparison of the characteristics of the boxes.

Drawer type	Advantages and disadvantages
Veneer	Such a box is made of strips that have practically no processing. It is quite fragile compared to wood, but it costs less. Suitable for storage and transportation of fruits and vegetables, as well as other products. Afraid of moisture.
Made of plastic	A fairly convenient type of box, which is absolutely not afraid of moisture. Depending on the quality of the plastic, it can be both very strong and quite fragile. But it is still easier to damage this type of box than an ordinary wooden one. It costs not much, but more expensive than a wooden product. Suitable for storage and transportation of not only dry but also wet products.
Made of metal	A species that is quite rare. Metal crates have not become popular due to their tendency to rust, as well as their heaviness and high cost. At home, it is not easy to make a metal box without special equipment.
Made of wood	The most optimal type of box. It has sufficient strength, it can have a different design, it is suitable for storing all kinds of products. Looks much better than a regular veneer box. When using decorative finishes, it can be used at home, it is durable if the tree has been treated with protective compounds.

Box made of wood

Manufacturing of wooden boxes in production takes place in accordance with GOST 20767-75. And for them a wooden board of a certain quality is used, having a thickness of 1 cm. Such boxes are thin-walled, but durable. They are quite lightweight and easy to use.

Tool cabinets, drawers, cabinets

Instructions for making a plywood box for collecting mail

A wood-based fixture is a versatile design option. Using the appropriate parameters and manufacturing techniques, you can make a device for storing mail:

Take plywood (12 mm wide) and cut it into pieces. The first is 22 cm wide and the second 6.5 cm wide.
A sketch is generated on these strips. On a strip 22 cm wide, sketch the front and back walls.
It is necessary to divide the canvas in half by a point at the very edge. From the corners on both sides of the strip, retreat 5 cm - mark the points. Draw a triangle.
Retreat 25 cm from the base of the resulting triangle to form the height. Make another one of the same detail. Retreat 5 cm from the edges of the strip and draw lines.
From the already obtained lines from the edges, retreat another 5 cm and draw the strips that will determine the location of the hole for the mail.
Cut the strips 6.5 cm wide into pieces 25 cm high.
Cut parts on the machine.
Use a jigsaw to cut a hole for letters. Work out the detail along the lines that were marked at a distance of 5 cm from the edge. You get a frame with a removable inner part.
To make the box neat, you need to grind the parts disassembled.
Connect all parts with glue. Small carnations act as an additional retainer.
To protect the plywood box from precipitation, cut out parts from a strip with a width of 6.5 cm, from which the "roof" will be formed.
For 2 decorative awnings, attach the door to the base of the product.
Inside the structure, a "stop" is installed from the remnants of the material.It is needed so that the door does not fall inside.

Such a mail device will be an excellent structure that will not only protect letters and newspapers from rain, but also decorate the design of the yard.

Types of organizers for tools

Tool boxes differ in the material of manufacture and the type of stored items. According to the material used, they can be:

wooden. Wood is an affordable and easy-to-work material. For the manufacture of boxing, a board or durable multilayer plywood with a thickness of 10, 16 or 18 mm is used. The complexity of the design depends on the wishes and skills of the master;
metal. Steel or iron structures are quite heavy, but they have strength and durability. Lighter boxes are made of aluminum;
plastic. These boxes are lightweight, durable, comfortable and modern in design.

Wooden tool box

Also, boxes differ in the type of tool stored in them and are:

Unprofessional. They are of a multi-compartment design. Bags or cases of different sizes are used for them.
Power tool. Special boxes used for storing drills, grinders, screwdrivers, etc. As a rule, such boxes are equipped with a large compartment for certain equipment and several smaller ones for additional equipment.
Professional. Most craftsmen prefer this particular type of tool boxes, since they have separate seats for a certain type of equipment.
Universal. Boxes of this type have a large number of compartments and are used to store a wide variety of tools. There are tool boxes with removable partitions, which allows you to rebuild the interior space at your own discretion.

Universal tool box

Drawer calculation (built-in option)

As an example of calculation, let's take a cabinet niche with dimensions W * D * H = 600 * 550 * 784mm. The calculation is made for internal boxes of the same size in the amount of 4 pieces.

Facade dimensions

The minimum allowable gap between the drawer fronts is 2mm. Another 2 mm need to retreat from the upper and lower shelves, between which the boxes are located. Thus, the maximum height of the facade is:

Vf = (Vn- (Kf-1) * 2-4) / Kf, where

VN - niche height;

Кф - the number of facades.

In our case, we get:

Vf = (784- (4-1) * 2-4) / 4 = 193.5mm.

It is impractical to make the fronts of the boxes larger than this value, since they can cling to each other.

Side wall height

If the bottom of the box is laid on, and 3mm thick MDF will be used as a material, then the minimum distance from the lower part of the facade should be 5mm (3mm for MDF + 2mm gap).

If the bottom of the box is inserted into the grooves, or is made of chipboard, then the minimum distance from the lower part of the facade to the lower part of the sidewall can be reduced to 2mm.

The minimum indentation from the upper part of the facade is 2mm, but usually it is made a little more, from 10mm. This does not play a significant role in the storage of things, however, it allows to reduce the weight of the box, and, accordingly, the load on the guides, which increases their service life. In addition, the height of the sidewalls and the back wall can be varied to obtain an optimal cut.

Thus, the maximum height of the side of the box:

Vb = Vf-7 - for the overhead bottom from LDVP;

Vb = Vf-4 - for the inner bottom of laminated chipboard or laminated chipboard.

Depth

The depth of the inner drawer should not exceed the depth of the niche, that is, in our case, 550 mm. However, for the convenience of closing, it is customary to leave a gap between the sidewalls and the rear wall, the size of which can be varied as desired. You should also consider the thickness of the facade.

Thus, the depth of the side of the box:

GB = Gn-Tf-Gz, where

Гн - the depth of the niche;

Tf is the thickness of the laminated chipboard of the facade;

Гз - the depth of the gap.

Let's calculate the depth of the sidewall for our case:

GB = 550-16-4 = 530mm

REFERENCE.Quite often, especially in serial products, the depth of the cabinet side is chosen, guided by the long guides. This allows the drawer to be pulled out completely and provides free access to its contents.

Rear wall dimensions

The height of the back wall is usually equal to the height of the drawer sides:

Vs = Wb

Its width is calculated taking into account the thickness of the sidewalls of the box and the gaps required to install the guides.

Thus, the width of the back wall is:

Shss = Shn - 2 * Tb - 2 * Tn, where

Шн - the width of the cabinet niche;

Тб - thickness of laminated chipboard of the side of the box;

Тн - the thickness of the guide.

Most hardware manufacturers have a rail thickness of 13 mm.

Then for our case we get:

Shss = 600-2 * 16-2 * 13 = 542 mm.

The width of the front wall of the box will be equal to the width of the back one:

Shps = Shss

The height of the front wall is equal to the height of the back wall or may be less:

Vps = Vps

Drawer bottom dimensions

The bottom dimensions are calculated as follows.

If it is planned to manufacture an overhead bottom from LDVP, then its width is equal to the width of the back wall of the box, plus the thickness of the two sidewalls:

Shd = Shzs + 2 * TB

In our case, Шд = 542 + 2 * 16 = 574 mm.

The depth of the bottom of the box is equal to the depth of the sidewall:

Gd = GB

In our case, 530 mm.

If the bottom is made of MDF installed in a groove, then its width is equal to the width of the back wall plus two depths of the groove in the sidewalls of the box:

Shd = Shss + 2 * Gp

The depth of the bottom is equal to the depth of the sidewall minus the thickness of the rear wall, minus the thickness of the front wall and plus two depths of the groove:

Gd = GB-Tzs-Tps + 2 * Gp

If the bottom is made of laminated chipboard, then its width is equal to the width of the back wall:

Shd = Shss

The depth in this case is equal to the depth of the sidewall minus the thickness of the rear and front walls:

Gd = GB-Tzs-Tps

The above formulas are almost universal and are suitable for calculating the details of boxes with any thickness of laminated chipboard and laminated fiber board.

DIY drawer

The assembly of the box is largely determined by the personality of the master who chooses certain tools. That is why all existing instructions will differ in one way or another. Some masters use templates, some do not, some masters work only with clamps, and some consider them a waste of time.

In this regard, the sooner you develop your own style of manufacturing, the better it will affect your work.

Materials at hand

To install the drawer, you will need the following tools:

laminated chipboard (chipboard);
drill and screwdriver (you can choose one thing);
hexagon;
drill;
self-tapping screw;
guides;
awl;
measuring square;
ruler;
pencil.

Step-by-step instruction

Step 1. The first and one of the most important steps in making a box is the correct marking. In order for the parts to connect, the conformity must be located in two places - below and above.

There should be two holes for future screws, as well as markings

The holes must be equidistant from the edges of the sidewall

Step 2. Take a 50 millimeter template and make a mark on the top and bottom of the board. It is not advised to measure less than 50 millimeters, since the fittings can split the chipboard.

When creating a box, you can work without a template, but it greatly simplifies the work

Step 3. Measure out half of the thickness of the material from which you assemble the box. For such purposes, it is also convenient to use a template. Repeat this procedure for the top and bottom marks.

The template performs several useful functions at once when making a box.

Step 4. To prevent the drill from going away during operation, at the intersection of the two marks, tap the hole with a screwdriver or any other sharp object.

The hole will be needed for further drilling with a drill.

Step 5. Align the details of the future box on the plane using a template.

Make sure the sides of the box are not tilted before using the drill.

Step 6.Take a drill and use its tip to rest against the already made grooves to fix the tool. While drilling, try to keep the drill straight so that the hole left on it will help guide the guides in correctly.

You need to drill the hole gradually so that it comes out neat

Step 7. Insert the screwdriver into the bit for conformations, then insert the conformity itself and position it in the place of the hole made, smoothly placing it into the recess. In the event that you find that in the process of placing the conformate, the box is warped, wring it out with a manual hexagon and straighten the sides, and then clamp it back. To avoid inconvenience, corner clamps can be used, which will immediately give the drawer the correct angle of inclination.

In the hole made, enter the conform

Step 8. Turn the drawer over and repeat the same procedure with the second hole.

Repeat with the second mark

Step 9. After all other sides of the box have been drilled in a similar way, check its diagonals for compliance with each other.

The sides folded together should be perpendicular to each other

Step 10. Screw the bottom to the drawer after aligning it. As a bottom, you can use an MDF plate (six). If desired, the slab can be coated with enamel.

Fiberboard is often used as a bottom for drawers

What are the boxes?

Hardware stores offer not only materials for repairs, but also special boxes in which it is convenient to store tools in a compact form. If there is no time and desire to make such a box with your own hands, then you can easily purchase it ready-made. However, it would be much better to do it yourself.

Before buying or making at home, you should clearly determine the type of box that will be most useful. For this, its purpose is determined.

Irregular use does not imply a fancy design. Much better in this case, a simple box-box with one section is suitable. There is another type - an organizer box. It is more suitable for men who are constantly involved in renovation work, whether at home or in the workplace.

Making the right choice is based on personal preference. The choice of a box depends on the man himself and his skill and desire to make something.

Stages of work

The sequence of operations in the manufacture of a simple box for locksmith tools from plywood with your own hands. The bottom, walls and other details are cut out using a previously prepared template, the contours of which are transferred to the plywood sheet with a marker or a special pencil.

To remove burrs, sand the edges of the holes with abrasive paper. Then the parts of the tray are glued together and fixed using spike joints. This will give the structure strength.

The made tray is glued to the bottom between the parts with holes for the handle and is additionally fixed with small nails.

With the help of glue, the bottom and sides are assembled in the form of rectangles; it is necessary to additionally increase the strength with nails. Then insert the handle and secure it with nails or in any other way.

Internal connections are reinforced by gluing rectangular or triangular bars at the joints between the walls, sides and bottom. The bars are additionally secured with screws or nails.

Tool storage box with lid

Slightly more complex, but also more practical, is often called the Carpenter's Toolbox. It differs from the massive walls and bottom, the presence of a hinged lid with a carrying handle and a removable compartment for small items.

Below is the layout of the parts and the order of their assembly

An important feature of this model is the assembly on self-tapping screws (screws), which greatly simplifies the work for an inexperienced joiner (carpenter).Unlike the tongue-and-groove system, such an assembly does not require mandatory and precise cutting of grooves on the side edges of the parts.

To make a tool box with your own hands, you will need:

quality wood or plywood with a minimum thickness of 8 mm for the walls and 12 mm for the bottom. Sheet material area or part dimensions are shown on the part nest;
screws or nails for assembly, fittings for a lid (piano or furniture hinges of a suitable size, holders for a leather handle, clasps), thin screws or nails for attaching fittings, a leather strip for a handle or a finished handle;
a screwdriver or a screwdriver for tightening screws (or a hammer for driving nails), a jigsaw or a hand saw for cutting parts, a tool for milling assembly grooves.

Additionally, you need a tool for marking and measuring.

The sawn parts are processed at the ends to remove burrs and roughness and assembled according to the instructions:

the assembly of the split bottom and lid is in progress

It is important to correctly execute the grooves and ensure a clear coincidence of the geometry of the parts;
a container for small items is collected;
on the side walls, stops and sealing strips are attached to insert the container;
the bottom is connected to the side walls;
the cover is assembled (top part and four side ones);
hinges and locks are mounted on the cover and one of the side walls (marking in place);
the lid handle is attached (this can be done at the stage of its assembly);
the performance of the structure is checked, the cover and locks are closed .. The processing of parts with moisture-proof or protective-decorative impregnation or coating is carried out after the final assembly or before installing the fittings (depending on the type of coating)

It is advisable to apply impregnations before assembly, varnish and paint - after, but before installing the fittings

The processing of parts with moisture-proof or protective-decorative impregnation or coating is carried out after the final assembly or before installing the fittings (depending on the type of coating). It is advisable to apply impregnations before assembly, varnish and paint - after, but before installing the fittings.

With the right type of wood and fittings, high-quality work, such a portable tool box looks very impressive and solid, not inferior to industrial products.

Step-by-step instructions for making a tool box

The optimal material for making the frame is oak wood. This is an excellent durable material that is durable and resistant to mechanical stress. It is better to take as a basis - glued plates with a thickness of 19 mm. This material has no knots and rotten inclusions. Using a circular, cut a strip 38 mm wide.

So that when gluing the individual elements do not move relative to each other, a nail is driven into the first part a little, its cap is removed with pliers, and then a second board is stuffed onto the protruding sharp tip.

The boards are additionally coated with glue and fixed.

The glue protruding at the joints of the parts is removed with a chisel, you just need to wait for the glue to dry a little.

As a result, you should get a 38x38 mm part. Its end is polished.

The edge must be cut strictly at an angle of 90 °, therefore, when cutting off the part of the required length, one must not forget about the cut angle.

This will help ensure that the cut angle is accurate.

The location of each part is marked so as not to get confused during assembly.

In each part, a groove is cut along the entire length, it must go strictly in the center.

The grooves can be made either with a stationary circular saw or with a milling machine.

On the parts that are intended for the manufacture of vertical corner supports of the frame, transverse markings are made.

Another longitudinal groove is made in the rear corner pieces. It is not needed in the front corner support pieces.

For subsequent fastening in the end part of the blanks, you need to find the center, marking the intersection point of the diagonals.

Next, a hole is drilled at the marked point, the diameter of which corresponds to the diameter of the dowel for fastening (6 mm).

It is necessary to carefully check the compatibility of the blanks.

The workpieces are processed with a file.

Marks are made in the loosely assembled frame in order to subsequently lengthen the grooves.

The grooves are cut out with a hacksaw on wood.

All unnecessary is removed with a chisel.

Next, a wooden tool box is made piece by piece. First - the side walls, then - the whole structure, then - the drawers, at the end - the lid. The side walls are made of birch plywood.

These blanks are needed for the drawers. A corner is cut from the end part.

Each piece is drilled for bolting.

Observing accuracy, it is necessary to drill the prepared parts.

On the part intended for fastening and separating 2 drawers, cutouts are made at an angle of 90 °.

Having installed the parts for the movement of the boxes in place and fixing them, they gradually begin to screw them.

The corners of the plywood blanks are cut as in the photo.

The walls of the lower boxes are attached to the plywood sheets using self-tapping screws.

Prepared horizontal plywood parts are attached to one side. First, this is done without the use of glue.

During fixation with the help of clamps, it is necessary to check the diagonality so that the dimensions match.

Drawers are made of plywood.

The grooves can be cut either with a stationary saw or with a milling cutter.

Next, you need a forstner drill to make the holes.

Drawer parts are held together with glue.

The sides of the boxes must have grooves for movement along the slats fixed inside.

For strength, the side parts are fastened with dowels, which are cut flush.

For reliability, when gluing, small nails are partially driven into the surface of the front wall of the drawers, their heads are removed.

Having attached the front panels to the drawers, they look to see if the individual elements are evenly located.

When gluing, it is necessary to observe the utmost accuracy, there should be no gaps.

At the end, the top frame of the box is made of plywood.

To make an accurate 45 ° cut, it is advisable to use a special tool.

The frame blanks are connected and fixed during gluing using a tensioning strap.

A groove must be made in the lid.

When attaching the plywood and the frame, the parts are clamped and drilled with a thin drill.

A round file is used to form the end portion of the rotary element to hold the lid in the raised position.

The holding piece is fixed with a thin stud. Its diameter should be smaller than the hole for the handle to move easily.

A groove is made in the frame.

The groove must not reach the corner part.

The upper frame is fixed with dowels.

The milling in the frame and cover must match.

The cover is attached with a hinge.

After the final assembly, everything is fixed to ensure a high quality connection.

At the end, the toolbox is sanded and treated with wood impregnation.

Plywood interior items

Perhaps you did not pay attention to the fact that a significant part of the products present in your home are made of plywood. So, it is often collected from it:

cabinets;
frame for upholstered furniture;
tables;
chairs;
even kitchen sets.

As you can see, the material is suitable for the manufacture of any furniture, therefore, a box from it can be assembled with almost any parameters. The result is a very practical device that will add a certain comfort to life and functionality in the atmosphere of the apartment.

Plywood is a very flexible material, so you can not be afraid to damage the sheet by not careful movement during its processing

As for how such boxes can be used, there are also a lot of ideas. Having made a "box" out of plywood, you can:

fill the shelves of cabinets and put things inside that were previously thrown there in a shapeless pile;
turn it over, attach the legs on casters and turn it into a coffee table;
use as a book holder;
make several identical boxes on top of each other, making a multi-storey organizer, etc.

Especially experienced craftsmen can turn a piece of plywood into a work of art, such as a jewelry box

Create a unique DIY plywood box

Making various useful household items with your own hands, for example, a plywood box, is not only pleasant, but also very useful. Spending free time in this way not only contributes to relaxation, since at such moments one does not think about problems, but it will also benefit the surrounding household and the interior.

The plywood box is useful and multifunctional

One of the options - simple in execution, does not require special material costs - is the ability to make boxes with your own hands. Plywood can be used as a sufficiently strong, reliable and aesthetic material.

This material is definitely easy to process, capable of withstanding a serious load, and has a wide range of thicknesses. Products made from it are suitable for all occasions. Plywood boxes can be used to store small items, tools.

There are many more different valuable ideas for their application.

Plywood processing tools

With the availability of high-quality tools, even an unprepared person can make a plywood box with their own hands.

Drill including screwdriver function
Electric jigsaw. For starters, you can purchase a device with semi-professional functions. In addition to the tool, a set of files is purchased to perform various functional works.
Furniture stapler
Roulette

Material and fittings

Plywood for the bottom. The thickness is selected depending on the purpose of using the product. It should be thicker than the side panels and lid.

Plywood sheets for side walls
Cover material, if a cover is intended
Cover handles
Planks, wooden blocks - for decoration
Finishing and finishing nails
Piano hinges
Decorative overlays
Wood glue
Wheels, if you make the box mobile
Finishing varnish
Wood putty

Do-it-yourself built-in wardrobe from various materials

Scheme of making boxes from plywood

Before making plywood boxes, you need to think about what function of use they will include.

Think over the design solution of the future product, for this you need to draw a drawing of the box.
Make measurements and necessary calculations.
Transfer the measurements to the plywood sheets.
Having drawn the pattern of the product on the surface of the plywood, we cut out the component parts using a jigsaw or a circular saw.

We process the edges of the sawn-off workpieces with sandpaper or a grinding machine, until there are any roughness and burrs.
On the walls of the parts we draw lines of grooves (if you use a groove connection), in those places where their connection will take place, this method will help to keep the future structure in a single integrity.

After preparing the parts, a plywood box is assembled, for reliability, the seams are first glued with glue for wooden surfaces. After the gluing process, the walls are fastened with self-tapping screws or confirmations.
For the fittings, holes are drilled at the points of attachment of the handles.
In addition, internal partitions can be installed. But a simpler option, the so-called catalog storage, is more in demand. These are small, sturdy drawers that can be removed and replaced in the usual way.
Large plywood crates may have wheels to make them easier to move.Also, the wheels will give individuality to this furniture.

With experience, such boxes will be made quickly enough.

In cases where plywood boxes are supposed to be with a lid, a blank for it is made in such a way that in size it should either cover the assembled sides or sink inside. In the second option, you need to provide additional strips to hold the lid.

Piano hinges are mounted in the middle of the rear wall of the assembled box. Then the cover of the product is carefully attached.

An option with a sliding lid is also possible, but it requires at least a little carpentry experience. Then the lid is made smaller than the box itself and grooves are cut for its unhindered movement.

Eternal log - myth or reality?

Using the knowledge of how to make a box out of plywood, it becomes possible to purchase a lot of exclusive useful devices for the household that can be used as a box for documents, the hostess will have a box for small items or needlework. And having made a structure with drawers for tools out of wood with your own hands, you will get your own drawer organizer, where each thing will be in its place.

Drawer-stool: drawings and description

It is a joinery of a more sophisticated level of workmanship than a simple box. For a stool, on which you can sit or stand, a strong frame is constructed from a bar. The inner space is used for storing the instrument.

You will need:

board 20 mm thick;
bar 50x50;
plywood 8-10 mm;
joiner's glue;
cutting tool;
screwdriver or drill;
bar, fine sandpaper or grinder;
hinges, handles, lock.

First, prepare a drawing with dimensions

Now you need to assemble the stool:

Cut the workpieces to size.
Connect the bars with a thorn-groove fastening with dowels.
Cut out the bottom and sides of plywood.
Sand all parts.
Grease the mating surfaces with glue.
Insert dowels and connect elements, remove excess leu
Tighten with clamps for 24 hours.

Exposure in clamps

While the glue sets, the seat is made from the board. The details are sanded, the edges are rounded. Glued to the frame and connected with an "oblique" screw.

The sides and bottom are fixed to the stool. The opening part is fixed with overhead hinges. To prevent the cover from opening spontaneously, a latch is installed. The functional stool drawer is ready.

Tool box on rails, corners and hinges

This design also requires a bottom and two pairs of identical blanks for the walls. You will also need a lid, the dimensions of which will allow you to cover the resulting box. The bottom walls are fixed with slats:

Nail them along two adjacent sides of the perimeter of the lid and bottom.
Assemble only the sides of the box, holding the parts together with metal corners.
Empirically mark the location of the slats for the remaining pair of sides.
Lower the bottom with the slats to the bottom. Screw along the contour.
If necessary, attach legs to the box.

An interesting model with hinges. It looks like two simplest little boxes. The boxes are connected with loops. It turns out that the parts are both a useful container and a lid for one another at the same time. Peculiarities:

it is better to use plywood 6 mm thick;
half-boxes are enough for a depth of 15-20 cm;
in one of the halves, you can make pull-out drawers with compartments for consumables;
the tool will be located in the second half - fix it with any type of fasteners.

You can improve this assembly a little and get a real organizer. The sliding mechanism is what distinguishes it from elementary models. It is more difficult to make such a box:

Assemble the bottom deep open top box of plywood. The space inside it can be divided by a partition into two compartments.
Make a pair of drawers. The width of each pair must match the width of the bottom compartment.Make pull-out covers for the drawers.
Place the boxes on metal plates, which will form the retractable base. An example for a 3-storey structure, when it is necessary to fasten separately on both sides:

a couple of lower levels;
all three (two longest plates);
middle and upper floors.

The technology allows the individual levels of the boxes to be moved. If you have any difficulties, refer to the diagram. The assembly of any box is not difficult. Success is guaranteed by a pair of skilled hands and the necessary materials.

The simplest portable box in a car or garage

This model is suitable for those who mainly use large tools - hammers, chisels, chisels, saws, keys - in a relatively small amount.

As you can see from the illustration, the design is extremely simple and represents an open top box with a handle and an additional tray for small items. The layout of parts for it is shown below, the kit includes a bottom, two rectangular sides, two parts with a hole for the handle and three parts - the bottom and side walls - for the tray.

It is recommended to use for manufacturing moisture-resistant or ordinary (depending on the conditions of use) plywood with a thickness of 6 ... 8 mm for the side walls and the tray, 12 ... 15 mm for the bottom and parts with a hole for the handle. As a handle, you can use a fairly strong metal bar or a round wooden part. If a wooden handle is installed, its diameter increases to 20 ... 25 mm; for metal, 12 ... 15 mm is enough.

Manufacturing procedure:

parts are cut along the contour (pattern), you can transfer the markings to a sheet of plywood with a washable marker or construction pencil

It is important to keep the lines parallel and perpendicular. The marking for the hole is made simultaneously on both parts of the sidewall;
the edges are processed with emery paper to remove burrs and roughness;
glue the tray, using supports or wooden blocks to maintain the correct shape of the corners, as shown in the illustration

The use of a tongue-and-groove system will improve the tightness of the connection and will make it more durable;

glue the resulting tray between the shaped parts of the sidewalls (parts with a hole for the handle) and fix the joints with thin nails;
glue the sidewalls (rectangular parts) and the bottom in sequence, reinforcing the joints with nails;
insert the handle into place and fix it with nails (for wood) or in another way (for metal). It is convenient to use a metal rod with threaded ends - lock nuts and washers will help to lock it in place.

Important: the drying time of the glue depends on its type and room temperature!

You can strengthen the joints inside the box with square or triangular bars, which are glued close to the walls and sides and additionally secured with nails or self-tapping screws.

An even simpler model of wooden boards is shown in the photo below, here the fasteners are made without nails, using gluing along the thorn-groove system. In the second option, on the contrary, the connection is made screws or screws large diameter.

Helpful advice: despite its utilitarian purpose, a toolbox made of plywood or wood, made with your own hands and intended for permanent use, must be treated with moisture-proof impregnation or coating. It can be linseed oil, a mixture of linseed oil with beeswax in a ratio of 4: 1 ... 3: 1 (for mixing, the components are heated to a temperature of 55 ... 70 degrees), drying oil, varnish, paint. This protection will extend the life of the product and prevent drying and cracking.