Multicooker device, diagram, troubleshooting and repair

And what is the miracle inside - the pots?

The figure shows which wires are at the bottom of the multicooker. Power is supplied via red wires. A switch (which puts the device into operation) and a thermal fuse (protects against overheating) are installed in series. The voltage from the thermal fuse is supplied to one terminal of the heating element, to the power supply board. The white wire is directly connected to the power supply. Through it, voltage is applied to the second output of the heating element, closes the relay contacts.

Wires supplying voltage and ensuring operation

Under the heating element there is a power supply unit with standard wiring. He is the most loaded part of the multicooker. Its tasks include converting the current into 220V to direct current 5V and 12V (the first saturates the control unit with power, and the second - the switching circuit, activates the relay). The home network supplies power to the three-pin connector located at the bottom. The yellow-green wire stands out: this is the ground.

Schematic diagram of the internal device of the Redmond RMC-M23 multicooker

Often, manufacturers install a universal board in the device for the entire model line. Naturally, technological nuances are kept secret, because firms do not expect to introduce self-taught masters into household appliances. When looking at the photo, an isolated metal round disc catches the eye. This is a battery that, when disconnected from the network, stores preset cooking programs in memory.

The figure shows the battery below (yellow)

Typical errors and their characteristics

Each model of the multicooker has a user manual, which displays the possible causes of errors and the inability to continue working.

In some cases, the same code may indicate several malfunctions at once, so this factor must be taken into account.

Before taking the multicooker for repair, you can try to find out what exactly the reason is. The following hint will help with this.

Expert opinion
Torsunov Pavel Maksimovich

In some cases, errors cannot be resolved on their own or their code is displayed incorrectly. Then you cannot do without qualified repair specialists. Initially, you need to understand what could provoke the appearance of this or that code on the display and try to eliminate this reason as much as possible.

E1

This error occurs in three cases:

1. There is a hole in the bowl through which the liquid enters the heating tube.
2. Contact with foreign objects and food debris on the heating element, which causes combustion processes.
3. Malfunction of the ten itself and its burnout.

To make sure that the heater is working properly, it is recommended to disconnect the multicooker from the mains, carefully open the lid and remove the bowl. Then they turn on the plug and control the heating process. Its absence gives an answer why the E1 code appeared.

E2

Such a problem most often arises due to a break in certain parts of the cable, the connection of which to the multicooker does not cause it to turn on. You can check this reason by connecting an alternative cable (you can ask your friends, neighbors). If, when connected, the device works, then the cause has been found.

Sometimes E2 appears when the thermal sensor located at the top is closed. It is recommended to open the lid, carefully remove the bowl and see the operation of the heating element when the plug is connected to the mains. If the error reappears when the lid is closed, the fault has been found.

E3

The most common mistake that occurs when the lid is not tightly closed. In some models, it is accompanied by a characteristic sound signal.

It also manifests itself when liquid enters the heating element. It is necessary to carefully remove the bowl and look at its condition from below. Perhaps crumbs, small particles of vegetables, cereals have adhered to it.

E4

The most difficult error, as it indicates a malfunction in the central board, which regulates all processes of the multicooker. The second reason is a malfunction of the pressure sensor. Only a specialist can find the problem and fix it.

E5

If the machine is used throughout the day and the heating element experiences increased stress, an automatic system is triggered, which provokes a forced shutdown. This is to prevent the heating element from burning out prematurely.

Device and principle of operation

All blenders are divided into several categories, which differ from each other in design and method of use, as well as in different attachments and functionality. To carry out repairs efficiently and correctly, you need to understand the design features.

Stationary

Stationary varieties outwardly resemble small food processors and are bowls with knives rotating inside. Typically, the knives are installed at the bottom of the bowl. The device is a desktop device and does not need to be supported during operation. This blender model is capable of grinding a large portion of food at a time.

> The main disadvantage of stationary devices is the need to allocate a lot of storage space. In addition, some models do not chop vegetables well and grind them into crumbs or leave too large pieces. In terms of repair, stationary equipment is much easier to disassemble and repair than submersible equipment.

Manual (submersible)

Hand blenders are designed in the shape of a long handle with a cutting tip. The nozzle is lowered into a container with products, the device is turned on and held until the grinding process is completed. Due to their compact size, the submersible devices do not require a lot of storage space in the kitchen. The ability to change attachments significantly expands the list of cooking.

This creates discomfort with prolonged cooking. Also, the device is not suitable for stirring a large portion of food.

How to disassemble the multicooker completely? Complete scheme of actions

Temperature sensors are located in the lid and bottom of the product - therefore, you need to disassemble the multicooker with extreme caution so as not to disturb these thin wiring. One wire connected to the touch screen

A lot depends on these details - they are the “brain” of the device. Damage to the temperature sensors can lead to malfunctioning of programs and cooking modes. Moreover, the kitchen assistant may not turn on, because the required set of heat indicators will not occur.

Preparation

• The device is disconnected from the network, they are waiting for complete cooling.
• The lid is wiped off grease with a soft cloth.
• If the fat is not rubbed off, use mild dish detergents, without abrasives.
• Wipe the lid dry.

Removable element with screw

Operating procedure

• The cover of the appliance is opened.
• In the area of ​​the lid, two plastic clips are found. They need to be pressed and pressed towards the center.
• The upper sector is pulled towards itself, and then sharply downward.
• All internal parts are thoroughly washed from food debris.
• To put the part in place, perform the reverse steps. If everything is in place correctly, the clips will make a click when they are seated correctly.

If the product breaks down and you need to see the internal details, and the master does not know how to carefully disassemble the multicooker, then:

• First of all, wipe all soiled parts of the product with a rag.
• The appliance is turned over with the lid down.
• The bottom cover holds the screw, unscrew it. Dismantle the bottom.

Dismantling the bottom

• All detachable wires going to the board are disconnected.
• Unscrew the screws holding the heating element.
• They remove the thermocouple, all the microcircuits.
• Unscrew the screw holding the top cover (when the model does not provide for removal). Then, squeeze the cover with a screwdriver, remove the temperature sensors.
• Remove the plastic snap rings (if present around the edges of the metal case).
• The inner walls are removed from the outer ones.

Where to find and how to replace a thermal fuse

Several thermal fuses are always located in the middle of the multicooker, no matter what company it is. They are located behind the cambric, which close the train. In each multicooker, the cambric is in plain sight. In some models, they can be assembled into a clamp, but more often they are not fixed in any way.

If the Philips multicooker is being repaired, you can unscrew the bottom of the appliance with your own hands and find the fuses.

Under the saucepan is a knot that looks like a massive metal mushroom, supported by a spring from below. If you disassemble the multicooker, then around this mushroom you will find fuses.

Thermal fuses only need to be attached using clips. For obvious reasons, they cannot be soldered.

Repair cost

Multicooker "Redmond" in its class is one of the most popular in Russia.

Many service centers offer repair of these devices as a separate service. How much does it cost to repair a Redmond multicooker. In most Russian services, the repair price varies from 650 to 1500 rubles, depending on the complexity of the breakdown. The cost of repairs usually does not include the price of parts. The cost of diagnostics is usually not included in the cost of repairs indicated in the price lists of services.

In most cases, only after carrying out diagnostics, the exact cost of the repair is determined by the master of the service center.

What to do if the multicooker breaks down - try to fix it yourself or use the services of a service center, of course, it's up to you. We hope this article will help you make the right decision.

How to disassemble and remove the cover

Models with removable handle (for example, SkyCooker M40S):

1. Turn and remove the steam valve.
2. Insert the plastic card, widening the gap between the top and aluminum covers.
3. Slide the card through the slots until you hear a click. A sound indicates that the card has pushed out the latch.
4. Insert the second card and remove the second stop.
5. Remove the first card and press out the remaining two clips.
6. Separate the plastic cover.
7. Place the appliance with its back up and remove the condensation container. It can be removed simply without a click or screws. Under it is a plug that hides the loop and wires.
8. Loosen the screws in the cover and remove it.
9. Lift the cover and pull the metal bar out of the holders.

In such models, a thermistor is located under the aluminum panel of the inner cover. It is attached with double-sided tape or glue and covered with foil. The wires from it (blue in a white additional braiding and yellow-ground) pass under the plug, go down into the case and stretch to the board located at the bottom of the structure.

The wires are constantly kinked and often break, which leads to an "E2" error. The multicooker turns on, understands the commands, but stops heating up, displaying a failure message immediately after pressing the "Start" key.

Models with a key using the example of Redmond RMC-M4500:

1. To clean the steam valve, remove the plastic box from the top of the lid.
2. Then - remove the valve from it and rinse both components.
3. The aluminum cover for the models of this series is fastened with screws - they need to be unscrewed to remove the part.

The lid snaps into place thanks to the flap-key, which is fastened in a recess on the case with two spikes. The latter often break or wear out. As noted by the masters on the forums, this is "planned wear and tear", forcing buyers to change the device to a more modern one.

Redmond RMC-M70:

1. The valve is dismantled in the same way as in the previous model.
2. The aluminum insert is attached to two clips. They need to be wrung out at the same time or in turn, and the cover can be easily removed.

Model Redmond RMC-250:

1. Remove the aluminum cover by pressing the three latches around the circumference.
2. Remove the steam valve. The difference between the model is that this part is located inside, not outside. When snapping into place, the valve should snap into place on the stopper.

How to fix a key lock

Since the key is mounted on two spikes, the most logical thing in case of their malfunction is to increase the protrusions. To do this, wire is fused into the key or nails / screws suitable in length and diameter are driven.

An easier way is to put screws on the cover or glue metal plates, and to the case - small flat magnets with sufficient adhesion strength.

Modern models of multicooker "Redmond" are easy to disassemble. The manufacturer recommends that you regularly remove and wash the steam valve and the aluminum inner cover. Older models are more difficult to disassemble, but in quite accessible ways. Take care of the multicooker in time so that it does not spoil the aroma of dishes and lasts longer.

Multicooker "Redmond RMC-M22"

Fault: there is no indication, the multicooker does not respond to the control buttons. He starts disassembling and try to repair the multicooker with our own hands. Having unscrewed the screws at the bottom, detach the lower part of the stand from the base. We get access to the power supply, the switching circuit and several functional elements. We unscrew the 4 screws of the power board.

We inspect the transformer for soldering, tracks. We call the transformer windings with a multimeter. If the transformer is open, we replace the thermal fuse, having previously unsoldered it. We call diode bridges, transistor. We replace elements and parts when breaks are detected.

Another option for repairing multicooker with your own hands with a "does not turn on" malfunction, which gives an alphanumeric error code. Deciphering the codes allows the master who knows them to understand the cause of the malfunction and to deal with its elimination.

For example, the displayed code "e0-e4" indicates malfunctions associated with short circuits and breaks of temperature sensors. They are located at the top or bottom of the multicooker. Perhaps there is a problem with thermal fuses, we have already talked about them above. Different manufacturers have their own codes. It is necessary to remove the multicooker body and use a multimeter to look for an open circuit while measuring the resistance level. Then eliminate the found breaks by replacing or repairing the necessary elements.

How to repair a latch

Service centers with the same problem are often brought to repair the multicooker "Maxwell". Few people dare to repair household appliances with their own hands, but there is nothing to worry about.

To repair the latch, you need to prepare an epoxy resin, a needle and a screw, the length of which is from 10 to 15 mm.

This part is initially held in the body of the device by means of two small plastic pivots. These axles cannot withstand the pressure exerted on them forever, sooner or later they break. The debris remains inside the holes in which the axes rotated. The first thing to do is take them out of there.

On the burner of a gas stove, heat the needle red-hot by holding it with tongs or pliers.

You need to drill a hole in the latch with a thin drill. It is necessary to drill where the axles "grew" from before. The drill diameter must be smaller than that of the prepared screw.

When drilling, be careful not to disturb the stiffener that is inside the latch. Only drill the outer wall.

Screw the screw into the resulting hole, making sure that it is oriented at a 90 degree angle to the latch, otherwise you will end up with a knocked-down axle.

Remove the screw, dip it in epoxy, and screw it back in. Let the resin harden and place the latch in place. The screw will take on the role of a broken axle, and the multicooker will serve for a long time.

Why install a thermal fuse for a multicooker

A thermal fuse is a kind of wire-wound element that resembles a resistor in its appearance. Its main function is to protect the multicooker from overheating.

Thanks to the thermal fuse, you can significantly extend the service life of the multicooker

Not a single electric circuit of a multicooker is complete without thermal fuses. They are usually located inside the device. Usually there are several of them, and you have to figure out which one burned out. To do this, you need to check the elements with a multimeter, which should measure the resistance. And if it is not there, the part needs to be replaced.

Reasons for the combustion of the thermal fuse:

• Failures in the operation of the power supply and switching;
• Sudden voltage drops;
• Defective operation of the control unit.

Thermal fuses can be of several types. The popular types are cpgxld or ldcpg. The operating voltage of such elements is usually rated at 250V, the throughput of the operating current is 10A or 15A. A numeral with a degree sign usually indicates at what temperature this element will work. For example, at 167 ° C.

As a rule, these parts are not restored, that is, they are triggered once, after which a new part must be installed.

Disassembly features from different manufacturers

When disassembling the device, you need to take into account the design features. The technique of different manufacturers has distinctive features.

"Brown"

The main feature of Braun blenders is that when disassembled, the motor is removed along with the control system. If this does not happen, you need to pull the pliers on the edge of the board.

Philips

Philips devices have a cover on the back, under which there are 2 screws for the power cord. They hold the engine in place and prevent it from being pulled out from the other side.

Bosch

To disassemble Bosch devices, just use a screwdriver. Prying the case and removing the latches, it remains to unscrew the screws to gain access to the mechanisms.

Kenwood

The process of disassembling Kenwood blenders is similar to unwinding the Bosch technique. Using a screwdriver, you need to punch through the gluing place and walk along the entire casing. Then the disassembly continues from the reverse side, prying the regulator knob in several places.

Polaris

Disassembling devices from the manufacturer "Polaris", you need to unscrew all visible screws. After removing the fastener, it is possible to separate the parts of the case and gain access to the internal structure.

Vitek

The halves of the Vitek blender body are fastened with latches. The main retaining screw is located under the switch, which can be removed by prying off with a screwdriver.

Dismantling the Redmond home multicooker

Below we will consider the features of the Redmond multicooker. Let's bypass the expensive models - we believe that not everyone has such - we will deal with the standard, sold at a reasonable price. Typical set of programs, average cost, uncomplicated appearance.

The Redmond home multicooker is distinguished by the complete absence of screws, screws from the outside. Improves appearance. The body consists of a plastic bottom with a rim encircled by a metal wall. No screws are attached to the base (hidden by an intricate label explaining the warranty period, forget the decor), plastic teeth. It is carefully covered with a transparent piece of plastic so that the paper is not soaked by the cooking vapors. Good - food won't stain the paper.Hence, a Redmond home multicooker will look great. It is easier to wash the case, liquid products are allowed without fear of losing the right of warranty.

One screw is cross-shaped, the other has a triangular hole. It resembles an Egyptian pyramid only with fewer faces. Moreover, the standard nozzle has three slots, the spreading angle of 120 degrees fails. You will certainly rip off the head. Avoid pressing, otherwise the wall of the Redmond home multicooker will bend inward, the presentation will be lost. Providence is delightful, provoking a slight contempt for the ingenuity of the designers. Insert both screws triangular, making it difficult to access. A non-standard head is more expensive, a single screw is not enough to keep the walls in place. Delightful, thought out to the smallest detail, the repairmen cannot be stopped! The triangular bolt is fastened from the inside with a nut to the wall. The bottom is simply glued, sits on plastic teeth (at the first acquaintance with the equipment, not knowing the features, you will rip off the head, you will lose the right of warranty).

From the bottom, the cover is attached with one screw to the inner shell of the case by the bracket, resulting in a sandwich:

1. Bottom.
2. External walls.
3. Internal walls of the working compartment.

The bottom is made of plastic, glued to the outer walls of a thin sheet of steel. Rolled over itself, forms a cylinder. It bends and breaks easily. The inner walls of the case are formed by high-quality steel, strong, with a shape that resembles a bowl more than the one in which they cook. In the middle of the bottom there is a hole where the main button wire goes. The heating element is a washer (figured cut out disk), is attached to the compartment with three screws equipped with lock washers. One contact goes to the plug connector, the other comes from the switching power supply board containing the relay controlled by the central circuit.

To fix the main button on the heating element disk there is a steel cylinder to which the die is attached. There is a spring between it and the main button. There are two sensors of the Redmond multicooker. The first one took a fancy to the cover (top), the second from the bottom. The first one is hidden between the walls. There are three conductors under the plastic loop:

The latter is needed in case steam gets inside. For fans of experiments, we inform you: if the main button is covered with cereals, the damage will take a long time to appear. The heating element disk hangs over the void. To the side, at the edge of the bottom, there is a power board on four racks. It is located at a certain height from the surface with the electronic filling down. In addition, the top is protected by a flat cover. There are holes in the bottom of the Redmond home multicooker, so if you spill liquid, it is highly likely to wet the table. Will close the plug, socket. The current will immediately go to ground if the device is correctly connected. Otherwise, as long as the fuses go out, households will suffer. Take note: liquid spilled inside, avoid taking with your hands at the same time:

1. Wet table, battery.
2. Home multicooker body, kitchen faucet.
3. Bowl, gas pipe.

It is dangerous to approach a home multicooker while food is available. It is safer to turn off the switch of the driveway flap, the switch box machine, rather than risk your life. Stop trying to pull out the plug, it can become dangerous.

There is also a step voltage. The cook must avoid the potential for touch. From the place of breakdown of the cable laid underground, they move away in a goose step. The heel of the leg pulled forward is placed on the toe of the standing leg. Security is ensured. On its way, the current forms a potential difference on the surface. The voltage drops evenly along the length. The longer the stride, the higher the potential difference between the legs. The likelihood of breakdown of the insulation represented by the soles of the shoes increases, the person will receive an electric shock. The principle works in the kitchen until the fuses burn out, or the dangerous appliance is not turned off automatically.

Replacement or contacting the master

It is possible to replace a component with your own hands if you follow the instructions. In the absence of confidence in the correct replacement, it is better to contact a specialized center. Professional help will be more expensive, but it will help you quickly fix the problem that has arisen.

If the appliance has stopped

When the blender stops working, you need to carry out diagnostics to understand the reasons for the incorrect operation. In most situations, the problem can be fixed without repair and replacement of components.

If there is a buzz

A quiet buzzing sound after starting the blender means that the motor is working properly, but the device cannot start rotating the knife. In this situation, you need to remove the bowl and use your fingers or a small screwdriver to squeeze the button that blocks the start of the mechanism.

If it does not work even with the lock released

Problems with starting, even with the interlock disabled, indicate a malfunction in the motor winding. With this problem, there is a high probability that one or more windings have burned out, as a result of which the motor has broken down and needs to be replaced. Often the cost of a new engine is comparable to purchasing a new blender, so in many situations it is unprofitable to replace.

If there are no signs of life

Situations when the blender does not respond to switching on may indicate various malfunctions. To determine the specific cause of the malfunction, you will need to run diagnostics.

Checking the outlet voltage

First of all, you need to make sure that the electrical outlet is in good working order. To do this, it is enough to connect any other device. If it works normally, then the reason lies not in a defect in the outlet, and you need to continue diagnostics.

Checking the cord

The next stage of the check is to inspect the electrical cord. In practice, it is often frayed or damaged from the inside. For diagnostics, you need to disassemble the blender body and remove the cord, which is inside fixed on a special block with screws or soldering. You can check the integrity of the cord with a voltmeter. The resistance level should be close to zero. In the absence of a voltmeter, it is allowed to take a new cord, replace the old one and connect to the network. If the problem persists, then the problem is not with the cord.

Fuse ringing

If there is a fuse in the blender, it should also be checked. The fuse is removed from the socket, and if it fails, then the thread inside the body will be broken. It is quite difficult to repair a component, so it is best to replace it if it breaks down. All technical characteristics are indicated on the fuse body, according to which you can easily select a similar part.

If a new fuse breaks instantly

A blown operating fuse immediately after connecting the blender to the mains indicates a short circuit. The problem lies in a malfunction of the control unit or the engine. In this situation, you need to connect individual units to the network and monitor the result. An ammeter is required to check the voltage level. If the voltage is significantly higher than the rated voltage, then the source of the problem has been identified.

Visual inspection of the printed circuit board

Comprehensive diagnostics also involves inspection of the printed circuit board. Most often, capacitors fail, and visually this can be seen by their swelling. When a resistor burns out, its surface becomes dark. When inspecting, you need to make sure that the connecting tracks on the board do not have breaks and delamination that occurs during a short circuit. Having found such defects, you will need to replace the electronic unit.

How to determine which of the elements is faulty

It's time to test the thermal fuses to see if any of them need to be replaced. It also happens that all these elements need to be changed.You can check the condition of the part with a tester.

DIY multicooker repair Polaris in this plan pretty simple. After all, thermal fuses do not even have to be removed to check.

The next sensor is located in the lid, but it is undesirable to open it without being sure that the cause of the multicooker breakdown lies there. You can check the sensor by measuring the resistance in its wiring and at the same time raising the temperature of the cover.

If no changes occur during this, then the sensor is really out of order, and it should be replaced.

Then it is already worth unscrewing the lid, only this must be done very carefully so as not to damage anything inside

Solution

The operating manual informs the user to follow the recommendations for eliminating errors. If the situation has not changed, then there is only one way out - the service center.

In some cases, the problem detection sensor shows the wrong error code, which complicates the process of finding and solving it. If all of the above actions were unsuccessful and did not restore the multicooker to work, you cannot do without a service center.

It is not recommended to open the multicooker on your own, disconnect the boards and check them for faults. If this fact is discovered in the service center, then the customer will be denied warranty service. Lack of experience can only exacerbate the problem and make further repairs impossible.

How the Redmond multicooker works

For self-repair of the multicooker, you should familiarize yourself with its design features and analyze the principle of operation of the device. It resembles an ordinary saucepan on which the monitor and the power button are located.

The container is closed with a special lid with a latch. The device contains a bowl in which food is prepared. Power and control units are located under this part of the device. Schemes are also located there. The multicooker is considered a multifunctional device. Its work is provided by a microprocessor. It includes several elements.

Electrical diagram

The voltage is applied to the connector, which has multiple pins. One grounds the unit, the second connects to the body, the third to the cover.

Wiring diagram

Power goes to the wires. Through them, the current is directed to the switch and fuse, which are fixed in a sequential way. The switch is used to start or stop work. A fuse protects the unit from overheating.

Power supply and switching unit

This element solves 2 problems at once. It supplies AC voltage of 220 Volts and converts it to DC. 5 Volts is required for the control unit. The switching circuit requires 12 volts. The circuit includes a battery. It is required to record the actions of the hostess, who launches the programs of the device.

Thermal resistance

The device has 2 thermistors. One of them is attached to the lid, the second to the bottom of the device. The key task of the elements is considered to be thermoregulation in the use of the device. Thanks to this, it is possible to maintain the temperature set by the hostess.

Thermal fuse

This element protects the kitchen appliance from overheating. It helps prevent damage to the control system.

The multicooker stopped working and does not turn on anymore - reasons and do-it-yourself repairs

Before blaming the manufacturer for the breakdown, it is worth analyzing the situation. Perhaps you just do not know all the intricacies of the device. It is also necessary to remember what happened when it was last turned on.

Possible reasons

So, you've got your new multicooker out of the box, loaded the groceries, and you're trying to start it up. But for some reason she doesn't want to turn on. It is not difficult to fix the problem in this case: most likely, you just installed the bowl incorrectly or overloaded it with products above the division (see photo). The container must be removed and reinstalled. It is also necessary to check the degree of loading of the device.

A similar problem can also occur when:

incorrectly set cooking mode: each type of food requires a certain temperature; if it is violated, overheating protection is triggered;

excessive loading of products above the level of the divisions located in the upper part of the bowl and, as a result, the ingress of excess boiling liquid onto the heating element;

Loading the multicooker above the level of the last label is not allowed

lack of liquid: in this case, the bowl overheats, the sensor immediately triggers and turns off the device;

• low voltage or no electricity;
• contamination of contacts when food pieces get in: they must be cleaned;
• clogging of the pressure valve built into the lid of the multicooker: in this case, it is enough to simply rinse it;
• deformation of the bowl: this defect is clearly visible even externally;
• factory defect of the temperature sensor: the last two problems are rare, but still they can be.

Defects such as a burnt-out microcircuit or failure of a thermal sensor are less common. In this case, you will not be able to figure it out yourself without special knowledge - you will need to contact the service center.

After selecting the cooking mode, do not forget to press the "Start" button

Correct operation

It often seems to users that the multicooker turns off ahead of time. The reason for this very often lies only in the violation of the rules of operation. So, interruption of heating earlier than the set time can occur when:

contact with the heating element of bulk products or moisture;

The heating element must not be exposed to moisture or food particles

• cooking temperature incorrectly set for this product; in this case, the built-in overheating protection may also be triggered;
• burning of the bottom of the bowl;
• exceeding the set temperature due to clogging of the pressure valve located in the lid of the multicooker (it must be removed and cleaned);
• a factory defect of the temperature sensor: a similar problem occurs infrequently, but it is also quite possible;
• a defect in the bowl, due to which food enters the heating element.

In order for the multicooker to serve for a long time, it is worth remembering the basic rules for its operation:

• install it on a flat hard surface;
• connect the device to a working socket with grounding;
• before switching on, make sure that the lid is closed tightly;
• after washing the bowl, be sure to dry it or wipe it dry; it is forbidden to put wet dishes on the multicooker stove;

The pressure valve located in the lid of the device is also not just wiped with a dry cloth, but thoroughly rinsed.

The steam valve built into the lid must be cleaned

Conclusion

The simplest thing a user can do is check the tightness of the lid, the presence of moisture inside and the integrity of the bowl. It is rather difficult to determine the rest of the problems without special skills and instruments.It is not recommended to completely disassemble the structural elements of the multicooker, as this can provoke their damage.

Before using, even if it seems primitive, you should always study the manufacturer's recommendations. This will reduce the likelihood of errors and save the family budget.

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