Varieties and features of epoxy paints

Transparent, lightfast materials

Epoxy varnish coatings, made on a transparent base and a transparent hardener, are designed to give gloss to any surfaces, as well as to protect them from aggressive chemical attack. They are used in the installation of self-leveling floors with decorative elements, as they are able to hide small cracks and scratches.

Main positive qualities:

• layer transparency up to 2 mm;
• lack of smell;
• resistance to sunlight;

• immunity to chemical and mechanical stress;
• sealing and dedusting of any base;
• the possibility of using detergents when cleaning.

Clear epoxy coatings are essential for the treatment of refrigeration equipment, surfaces in manufacturing halls and warehouses, garages, parking lots and other residential and public places.

An example of such a material is the lightfast, UV-resistant "Lac-2K", which helps to form a completely transparent and durable base.

Paint options

Latex paints can be recommended as an excellent remedy for solar ultraviolet radiation. For most architectural work, this type of paint may be the most acceptable option. Their disadvantages include a slight resistance to damage and the possibility of scratches and minor damage;
Alkyd coatings (an example is an alkyd-based protective varnish with a glass effect) are extremely easy to use and almost completely free of toxic elements, in addition, they can always be found on store shelves, and they will be affordable for everyone

Such a variety should be treated with special attention when choosing: often, only premium materials can have a long-lasting effect and sufficient wear resistance over a long period of time, even with regular use of products;

One-component polyurethane paints are attractive in their ease of use and offer much better performance than alkyd materials. However, it should be noted that they are also more expensive, and also not all of them can be called suitable for the amines contained in the epoxy resin of the cured product.
Two-component polyurethane paints provide the greatest preservation of works among the listed products and are both pigmented and colorless, in addition, they guarantee a sufficiently good level of protection from the influence of sunlight, maintain gloss properties for a long time and have increased wear resistance and the best compatibility at the molecular level between the chemical compounds of the product and the coating

However, they are also some of the most expensive on the list, require extra care when handling them and can be hazardous to the human body, especially when sprayed.
Epoxy based paints can also be composed of one or two components. Two-component epoxy paints are very similar in performance to their polyurethane counterparts.

They also have good wear resistance and resistance to the action of chemical materials, but they do not so well protect the surface from solar radiation when compared with polyurethane counterparts.
Antifouling paints are a variety of coatings with many different formulas. Most of these paints easily interact with the products to be coated and can be applied directly to the work.If you suspect compatibility or have questions about hardening and adhesion to this type of paint, you must first treat the product with the primer recommended in the instructions.
Primers. Generally not required for epoxy topcoats, however some types may require a primer intercoat; high-build primers can be useful for covering up defects such as scratches and paint streaks on the surface of the product.

When using any type of coating, follow the manufacturer's instructions. However, as mentioned earlier, it is recommended to additionally check the effect of the paint and varnish product on a separate area of ​​the material in order to visually assess the required characteristics of the product to be coated, the compatibility of materials and the operating parameters of the protective layer.

Floor varnishes

"Elakor-ED" is an epoxy-polyurethane-based material, the main purpose of which is the arrangement of floors, although in practice the composition is also used to form a high-strength film on other surfaces.

The products are easy to use, allows you to make a glossy protective coating in just a day

However, it is important to know how to apply the product correctly.

First, preparatory work is carried out:

• it is necessary to clean the base from dust, small debris and dirt;
• the tree should be primed and sanded;
• when applied to concrete, it is first putty and leveled;

• when applied to metal, rust should be removed from it;
• Before processing, polymer products undergo any abrasive and degrease.

A hardener is added to the varnish, which must be mixed within 10 minutes.

After the end of the chemical reaction (bubble formation), application can begin.

Since epoxy-polyurethane compounds harden within an hour, with a large area to be treated, it is better to prepare the solution in parts. Application is carried out at a temperature not lower than +5 and not higher than +30 degrees with a roller, brush or a special pneumatic device. The use of a brush requires regular cleaning with a solvent. Apply the varnish cross on the cross with a roller.

When working, it is recommended to erect at least three layers of varnish, which will ensure maximum density and strength. For one square meter, you need to use at least 120 grams of solution. Any deviations up or down will lead to an unsatisfactory result or wrinkling of the composition on the surface.

Despite the absence of odor, it is advisable to carry out all work with epoxy mixtures in a special suit and a gas mask, since a respirator is not able to protect eyes and lungs from toxic fumes. This is especially true of EP series varnishes, as they contain toxic solvents.

Epoxy varnishes not only make the coating beautiful, but also increase its service life due to its high resistance to various external influences.

How to make a polymer epoxy
covering the concrete floor in the garage of a country house, see below.

Even if you wash and dry your bathtub thoroughly after each use, the enamel of this sanitary fixture will not remain pristine white and shiny like when you bought it. Over time, the inner surface of the bowl turns yellow, becomes covered with small cracks, chips due to constant contact with water and mechanical stress.

Only re-enameling the bath with your own hands can restore whiteness and gloss. High-quality enamel for the bathroom, applied to the prepared surface, can extend the service life of the product by 1.5-5 times at relatively low cost. In this article we will tell you what types of opaque compositions are used for this and how they differ.

Curing of epoxy resin ED-20

Uncured diane epoxy resin ED-20 can be converted to infusible and insoluble
condition by the action of curing agents (hardeners) of various types - aliphatic and aromatic di- and polyamines,
low molecular weight polyamides, di- and polycarboxylic acids and their anhydrides,
phenol-formaldehyde resins and other compounds.
Depending on the hardener used, the properties of the cured ED-20 epoxy resin can
vary over the widest range.

ED-20 is used in industry in its pure form,
or as components of composite materials - potting and impregnating compounds, adhesives, sealants,
binders for reinforced plastics, protective coatings.

Characteristics of ED-20 resin

Epoxy resin ED-20 is not explosive, but it burns when introduced into a fire source. Volatile components (toluene and epichlorohydrin) are found in
resin in quantities determined exclusively by analytical methods,
and refer to substances of the 2nd hazard class according to the degree of impact on the human body.

Resin ED-20 is stored in a tightly closed container in closed warehouses at a temperature not exceeding 40 ° C.
The guaranteed shelf life of ED-20 epoxy resin is 1 year from the date of manufacture.

Epoxy can be supplied with hardeners
cold and wet hardening.

Qualitative indicators of ED-20 epoxy resin according to GOST 10587-84:

Additional information about ED-20 resin

Precautions: Working with epoxy resins must be provided with protective clothing and personal protective equipment. All operations when working with epoxy resins should be carried out in rooms equipped with supply and exhaust ventilation

Storage: Epoxy-diane resin is stored in a tightly closed container in a closed warehouse at a temperature not exceeding 40 ° C.

Packaging: Epoxy resins are shipped in steel buckets, drums, barrels. See the price table for packaging availability.

The guaranteed shelf life is 12 months from the date of manufacture.

Epoxy resin code type ED-20 CAS No.25068-38-6. English name - Poly (bisphenol-A-co-epichlorohydrin)
Liquid Epoxy resin (Biphend A type), Epoxy Equiv: 184-194 g / eq.

Base resin ED-20 in the production of glass and carbon fiber reinforced plastics

Application of basic epoxy resin ED-20 in the production of composites, using as a reinforcing filler
rovings and fabrics made of glass and carbon, methods of manual laying of impregnation under vacuum, winding, pouring, etc. are not technological and
can only be justified by economic considerations.
Our company offers a number of ED-20 analogues:
epoxy liquid resin KER-828,
, resin BE-188,
NPEL-128,
DER-331,
DER-330,
EPOTEC YD-128,
YD-128,
Eposir-7120.

For good results, experts usually recommend
use epoxy resins modified with active thinners, for example from our range:

• Choosing a Modified Epoxy Resin
• Modified epoxy resin Etal-370
• Modified epoxy resin Etal-245
• Modified epoxy resin Etal-247
• Modified epoxy resin Etal-249
• Epoxy compound К-115
• Epoxy compound K-153
• Epoxy compound K-153A (resin)
• Epoxy compound KDA
• Low-temperature transparent epoxy compound Etal-27NT / 12NT
• Modified epoxy resin Etal-148 for elastic compositions
• Modified epoxy resin Etal-200M

Grades and CV

I AM
tried to evaluate each of
considered technological
resin parameters ranging from 1 (poor) to 5 (excellent).
I will say right away that this was not an easy matter,
highly dependent on the preferences of the master.
One wants the time of the primary
thickening was as much as possible (score 5),
but then the time of full
curing (grade 1), for the other vice versa
priority is fast curing (5) and low
lifetime (1). With a degree of density and
the convenience of degassing is the same situation: if
one "pulls" by 5, then the second by 1. Mine
the compromise solution was as follows.

Note
to the table.  
Sign
reflects the uncertainty in the parameter
resistance of resins to yellowing.

First
the place was divided among themselves by resins PEO-510KE-20/0
and Epoxy Crystal PLUS. I do not have enough speed at PEO-510KE-20/0
solidification, at Epoxy
Crystal PLUS - more
liquid consistency. But this is me already
find fault. Both pitches are perfect, boldly
you can recommend any of them to the master,
and a beginner.

Second
the place was shared by the "twins" D-lineCrystalEpoxy
and ArtlineCrystalEpoxy.
If not for the unpredictable behavior and
oddities with degassing, could be
perfect.

On
3rd place Magic
Crystal 3D and Poly
Glass. The first is because of
incomprehensible behavior of the last parties and
yellowness, the second - due to density and stains
in flat castings.

COMPARISON
JEWELRY RESIN. Introduction. 06.03.2019

COMPARISON
JEWELRY RESIN. Mixing ratio. 
15.03.2019

COMPARISON
JEWELRY RESIN. Degassing and water bath. 
26.03.2019

COMPARISON
JEWELRY RESIN. Thickness and hardening. 
04.04.2019

COMPARISON
JEWELRY RESIN. Transparency, fill,
treatment.  16.04.2019

COMPARISON
JEWELRY RESIN. Grades and CV.  24.04.2019

Resin Dilution Instructions

How to dilute the epoxy correctly, what is needed? Before starting work, prepare a mixing container, a wooden stick, 2 syringes for a set of substances. Beginners should remember that the ongoing reactions are irreversible - it will be impossible to restore the damaged epoxy. It is better to carry out a "test" mixing in small quantities in advance in order to accurately calculate the dosage.

Cooking procedure

Despite the possibility of cold curing with good quality hardeners, it is worthwhile to warm up the resin a little. This will make the composition less viscous, but crystallization and boiling should not be allowed (boiling will ruin the epoxy, it can be thrown away). During heating, the material must be regularly stirred and the temperature monitored.

Calculation of the solvent rate is very important. If you add a little, the material will remain in the gelatinization stage or harden, but the surface will be sticky. It is necessary to carefully read the instructions for the epoxy, the proportionality of the dilution is always indicated there. All formulations are different, and the rate of the hardener can vary from 10 to 50%. It is impossible to replace hardeners with those that are not specified in the manufacturer's recommendations!

It is necessary to collect the required number of components in two separate syringes. Some companies produce material complete with plastic bottles, which have marks (measuring cups). You do not need a needle to fill in the hardener, it is removed. The thick resin is completely poured through the top of the syringe, removing the piston - it will not be drawn in through the narrow nozzle.

Getting small volumes of resin

To get some of the composition for domestic use, cold curing is practiced. The selected number of components are interconnected in a container, thoroughly but gently mixed. For this purpose, you can not use a power tool, it is advisable to use only a wooden stick. Works are performed at temperatures up to +25 degrees in the room.

The finished mass should be free of air bubbles, impurities, the composition becomes absolutely transparent. The consistency of the product, if done correctly, is even, homogeneous.

Large volume resin

Since the polymerization of the resin proceeds with the release of heat, only small portions of the product can be obtained by cold curing. When connecting large volumes, the epoxy should be heated in a water bath to +50 degrees. Next, the composition is urgently removed and a hardener is added. It is strictly forbidden to get into the resin of water - this will lead to a complete loss of properties.

It will be necessary to work very quickly after heating the epoxy, so the container and the correctly measured hardener must be ready in advance. Mixing must be thorough.

Mixing components

Many brands of epoxy resins require plasticizers to create a finished product. A number of hardeners combine both properties, so it is worth using DEG-1, DBP. The hardener is poured in a thin stream, the composition is thoroughly mixed with the other hand. Ideally, the pouring and mixing process takes about 5 minutes.

Curing time

How long does the resin dry after connecting the components? This time is determined individually, the upper and lower boundaries of the period are always indicated in the instructions. Before drying, the epoxy retains its viscosity, fluidity, and is suitable for pouring various products and shapes.

Usually, when diluted 1:10 with hardener, the material should dry quickly - in 30 - 60 minutes. With a decrease in the amount of hardener, this time increases to 2 - 3 hours. Most epoxy adhesives cure in 24 hours.

If the specified period has passed, and the resin is still sticky, the reasons may be as follows:

• too low room temperature;
• the proportions of the components are incorrectly selected;
• water got into the mass;
• expired hardener, poor quality.

Epoxy varnish

Elakor-ED Varnish-2K - epoxy varnish - price

Price rub / kg depending on the quantity. Including VAT and packaging.

The guaranteed shelf life in the manufacturer's container is 6 months.

Store and transport at temperatures from + 5 ° to + 25 ° C.

In case of emergency, it can be stored and transported at freezing temperatures without restrictions. In this case, the material "RESTORE" is required before use.

Epoxy varnish - Elakor-ED Varnish-2K - two-component, completely transparent, lightfast. Does not contain solvents, dry residue - 100%, odorless when applied.

Epoxy varnish "Elakor-ED" consists of a base - component A (transparent liquid) and a hardener - component B (transparent liquid). As a result of polymerization, a durable optically transparent coating with high chemical and mechanical resistance is formed.

Transparent epoxy varnishes - purpose.

• Finishing coats for epoxy floors with colored quartz sand (Stone Carpet coating).
• Packing layers for frame coatings with stone chips, rounded sand, etc. (for packing layers, a thixotropic additive Elakor-DT is added to epoxy varnishes.)
• Artistic epoxy floors and coatings with various decorative elements (stones, coins, etc.).
• Protective layers for floors with photographs and drawings, 3D epoxy floors.
• Decorative completely transparent impregnation-coatings of mineral surfaces (concrete, stone, brick, etc.).
• Decorative completely transparent coatings for wooden surfaces (solid wood, parquet, plywood, etc.).
• Transparent varnish coatings for metal surfaces.

Properties of coatings based on epoxy varnish.

• Completely transparent in a layer up to 5 mm, with a thicker layer, slight haze is possible.
• They are highly resistant to light and ultraviolet radiation.
• They are highly resistant to mechanical and chemical stress.
• The surface of the coatings is completely dust-free.
• Provides complete surface sealing.
• Designed for indoor use, "under a canopy" and limited outdoor use.
• When cleaning, you can use neutral and alkaline detergents.

To clarify prices and buy transparent epoxy varnish Elakor-ED Varnish-2K, you can place an order on the website or call us for additional advice on application technology, properties, etc.

Epoxy varnish - application instructions.

The ratio of components A: B by weight is 100: 46. Start mixing component A and immediately gradually pour component B. Thoroughly mix the components throughout the volume, including at the walls and bottom of the container, for about 2-3 minutes. For mixing, use a paint mixer, rotation speed 100-200 rpm. Immediately pour the prepared composition onto the surface and distribute.

Cook in small batches in order to have time to develop in no more than 20 minutes.

Important! Do not scrape mixed varnish from the bottom and sides of the container! In these places, there may be incomplete mixing of the components, which will lead to the formation of defects. 2

Application conditions

2. Application conditions.

• The surface of the substrate is clean and dry.
• The air and surface temperature at the time of work should be within the range from + 5 to + 20 ° С.
• Relative air humidity - no more than 80%.
• The surface temperature is at least 3 ° C above the dew point.

3. Application of Elakor-ED epoxy varnish.

• Application method: rollers, brushes, flat trowel, notched trowel, squeegee.
• Consumption when applied with a roller or brush on a flat surface - 100-200 g / m² per layer.
• Consumption when applying with a notched trowel, squeegee - up to 1 kg / m² per layer.
• It is not required to roll with a needle roller.
• The thickness of the layer is not limited, but if the thickness is more than 3 mm, the varnish layer may become cloudy.
• Three days after applying the last layer, you can walk, after seven days - full mechanical stress.

EP-2146 varnish

Parquet varnish EP-2146 is used to cover parquet, wooden floor, it can also be used to paint any wooden surfaces (furniture, stairs), decorative paper. The operation of the coating should be carried out indoors. Production is regulated by the standard TU 2311-055-56041689-2007.

Composition, properties

The product contains epoxy resin, colloxylin, plasticizers, curing accelerators, an additive to improve spreading, solvents. The material forms a glossy coating that is resistant to mechanical damage, which protects the floor from abrasion and scratches. The surface can be washed with water, with SMS.

Specifications

The main technical characteristics of the brand are given below, regulated by TU:

• film - homogeneous, without impurities, inclusions, transparent;
• color - 80 mg I2 / 100 cc cm on the iodometric scale, it is unacceptable to darken the EP-2146;
• viscosity according to the VZ-246 viscometer at a temperature of +20 degrees - 40 - 120 s;
• the share of dry residue - 31 - 37%;
• drying time at a temperature of +20 degrees - 2 hours;
• hardness on the TML device - 0.15 cu. e.;
• gloss - 55%;
• resistance to the influence of water at a temperature of +20 degrees - 8 hours;
• consumption of 1 kg of material - for 10 - 14 sq. m of coverage.

Work

The tool has a peculiarity in the application. Before work, it must be mixed - combine the main composition with a hardener. On sale there is a ready-made form of the product, one-component. If necessary, dilute the varnish with solvent No. 646.

To prepare the base, you need to clean it from grease, dirt, dust, grind it, dry it. The product is applied with a brush, roller, and dried for 2 hours between each layer. Perform 3 layers, then dry the coating for 24 hours. Work is carried out at a humidity of up to 65% and at a temperature of about +20 degrees.

It is important to wear gloves, a respirator, paint products only with good ventilation. After drying, the film is safe for humans

Defects and ways to eliminate them

Defects may appear after paintwork.

For example, the layer does not harden after the expiration of the period stated in the instructions.

• incorrect ratio of resin and hardener;
• the work was carried out at a temperature not confirmed by the manufacturer. At too high or low values, the curing process slows down or does not occur at all.
• insufficient penetration of components as a result of poor mixing.

• prepare a new composition, mixing the parts for 2-3 minutes.
• let the new suspension brew for 10-15 minutes.
• remove the rejected layer and apply a new layer.

Failed wall panels are removed and new ones are installed. Then paint is carried out in 2 layers and after complete drying, their surface is polished until shine appears.

If the floorboards, doors or frames are rotten, then they are also changed, but before painting, they first remove the roughness on them, putty the seams, clean them with sandpaper and primer. Furniture items that cannot be repaired are disposed of.

I have a surplus of component A of transparent epoxy resin PEO-10KE-20/0 (component B was spilled). Is it possible to harden it with some other substance?

If
you have a surplus of component A,
then it is most correct to acquire the missing
the amount of "native" component B,
for example, in the Nestandart store (St. Petersburg). The same applies to
procurement of missing component A. Important
remark - component B for the whole line
jewelry resins PEO-10K-20/0, PEO-610KE-20/0, PEO-510KE-20/0,
PEO-10KE-20/0, PEO-210KE-20/0, PEO-310KE-20/0 and PEO-710KE-20/0
same. 4

Epoxy
froze, but the upper
part of the lens was covered with oil
film. I rubbed the lens with acetone, resulting in the lower part
smooth and transparent, and the top has become
rough. Why so
happens and how to avoid it in the future?

 4. Epoxy
froze, but the upper
part of the lens was covered with oil
film. I rubbed the lens with acetone, resulting in the lower part
smooth and transparent, and the top has become
rough. Why so
happens and how to avoid it in the future?

Reasons
the appearance of an oil film may be
several: low temperature, high
humidity, wrong ratio
components and poor mixing. Sorry, you don't write
what kind of hardener were used. When used in
as a hardener TETA essential
have the first two factors. Even with
correct weights and careful
stirring curing at room
temperature with high
likely to be accompanied by
the appearance of an amine film. Prevent
its appearance can be increased by increasing the temperature
curing up to Т = 30 ºС and above.

Epoxy resins for
creativity PEO and Crystal resin are not so critical to
curing temperature. For them the most
a common reason for the formation of a film is not taking into account the fact that
density
components A and V different and therefore
ratio of components A: B differently
"By mass" and "by volume". Second most common
the error is due
common misconception that if you take
hardener is more than the norm, then curing
will happen faster. In fact, for
significant excess of hardener
will remain unresponsive between nodes
mesh, and on
the surface of the product will be observed
gradual "sweating" (film). By the way,
simultaneously
decrease in strength and chemical resistance
cured epoxy resin,
moisture absorption, on the contrary, will increase.

If
the film has appeared, then remove it from
the surface does not need acetone, but warm
water and a sponge or diluted ethyl alcohol.

 5.
I am out of proportion
(6.6ml: 1.5ml) and PEO-510KE-20/0 glue is not completely frozen.
Can I pour a new one on top of this incompletely frozen layer with the correct
proportion?

If you made a mistake and poured
A= 6.6ml,
V= 1.5 ml, and the mixture has not yet been poured onto the product,
then add more hardener V= 0.5ml and again
stir. As a result, it will turn out A: B=6,6:(1,5+0,5)=6,6:2=3,3:1
and you can continue to work.
If the product has been poured, then decide whether to wash off the polymer layer or
leave him - you will have to yourself, given
many factors: appearance, degree of crosslinking
polymer, product "liability" and
etc. If
the product is custom-made, then I would not risk it,
making a second fill. Strong house
you can't build on a bad foundation. I remind you
just in case that the permissible error of the sample
components 5%.

Specifications

Before applying to wood products treated for the first time, it is necessary to prepare the surface. Apply three to four coats of two pack epoxy clearcoat. The former must be thinned to 20% to ensure good penetration into the wood. Subsequent layers can be with a lower or higher concentration.

Mixed substances can be applied with a spray device, brush or roller. A minimum of two coats must be applied at intervals of 3-4 hours. The interval should not exceed 8 hours. Do not leave mixed substances overnight.

With previously lacquered products, they do it a little differently. Remove all previous coatings with Crown paint and nail polish remover. It is recommended to use mechanical sanding equipment on such floors. Apply epoxy varnish in three or four coats.

1. Make sure the joinery is completely dry, as moisture can react with the varnish to give a milky appearance. Epoxy varnish should not be applied to floors where there is a risk of moisture build-up (especially in older buildings with dampness). As this can lead to deformation of the wood flooring.
2. When varnishing new and sanded parquet wood floors, make sure the entire surface is clean and completely removed before application. It is recommended to remove dust from the floor and between wood joints a few minutes before application with a brush and then with a cloth soaked in epoxy thinner.
3. To obtain a smooth surface, each layer should be rubbed with fine sandpaper, preferably using a thin, waterproof abrasive paper. Wipe clean before coating.
4. To obtain a smooth, glossy surface, several thin coats are recommended. Don't apply too tightly.

Conclusion

Now you know what an epoxy varnish is, on what basis it is made, what advantages it has. We also examined the features of such a tool. In addition, the article described the nuances of using cold and hot curing varnishes.

Varnishes are a mixture of film-forming substances (resin, polymer) and water, organic solvents. When the varnish dries, a transparent hard film is formed, which protects and emphasizes the structure of the painted surface, mainly of different types of wood, paper surfaces. Varnish is applied to the prepared surface, usually as a final coat, giving the product or surface a sophisticated finish with improved usability. Epoxy varnishes are solutions of epoxy resins or their modified products in organic solvents. Epoxy varnishes based on epoxy esters, dian resins, as well as varnishes, combined epoxy resins with film-formers (alkyd nitrites and cellulose resins, ethinol varnish, liquid thiokols) have the greatest practical application in the national economy. and supplements. For hot and cold cured coatings, unblocked isocyanates and polyamides are used as room temperature curing agents. These are two-component varnishes.One-component varnishes are formed using other hardeners, including blocked isocyanates, which cure at an elevated temperature of 120-235 ° C. Epoxy is used in many industries. This synthetic oligomer is not used by itself. Useful qualities of the resin are given by hardeners after the end of the polymerization process. By mixing different hardeners with different resins, you can create a product with different properties (solid, liquid, rubber). The initial components added to the epoxy resin eventually divide it into a hot or cold curing resin (from +200 ° C to -10 ° C).

Components of epoxy varnish

Epoxy varnishes in their composition contain: - solvents (aromatic hydrocarbons, ketones, ethers of glycols, nitroparaffins, alcohols); - additives that improve spreading over the surface of the varnish (silicon); - hardeners (low molecular weight polyamides, polyethylene polyamines, isocyanates, anhydrites of carboxylic acids , solution of hexamethylenediamine in ethanol); - rejection accelerators (phenols, tertiary amines, phosphoric acid); - desiccants.

Parquet floors and more

EP-2146 varnish is used for painting parquet floors, wooden surfaces (stairs, furniture), decorative paper. Epoxy varnishes have high strength, hardness, chemical waterproofing. Before using epoxy varnish, two components must be mixed - varnish and hardener. The time for complete drying of the varnish is from 6 to 12 hours. After drying and the transition of the varnish to a solid state, the harmful components become safe for humans, inert.

Features of coating with EP-2146 varnish The painted surface is beautiful, glossy, durable, reliable. The structure (drawing) of the tree is perfectly visible. Products treated with EP-2146 varnish do not lose their attractiveness for 15 years. The varnish is resistant to mechanical damage due to the hard film that the varnish forms after drying; to the action of detergents and water. After applying the varnish, the surface is well leveled, so you can paint in any direction. After 2 hours from staining at a temperature of 20 ° C, you can apply 2 layers of varnish. Apply varnish with a roller or brush. Diluted with solvents No. 650, 646. Varnish consumption is - 100 g / m2. EP-2146 varnish is able to withstand prolonged (at least 8 hours) exposure to moisture without significant changes in the physical properties of the surface. EP-2146 varnish contains: - epoxy resin; - colloxylin; - plasticizer; - solvents. Surface preparation for painting: 1) sand the surfaces , remove abrasive particles, dust; when repainting floors, you should also remove the mastic layers; 2) even out chips and unevenness of the treated surface; 3) apply a varnish primer (fills the pores, sticks the villi, reduces the consumption of parquet varnish). The varnish film is alkali-, water-resistant, adhesion to different materials, but not weatherproof enough, therefore it is used mainly for internal repair work.