Preparation of works
Regardless of who will be engaged in the repair - the builder or the owner of the apartment himself, the old finish is dismantled and the material is purchased in the form of:
- primers and putties;
- wallpaper or water-based paint;
- linoleum or laminate.
By purchasing a disassembled structure, they assemble the box, make hinges, cut in the lock, and then mount it in the opening and install the platbands.
When installing interior models, gaps are left at the top and bottom, retreating from the wall by 10–20 mm. This helps to close the voids with foam, change the position of the product. It is necessary to mount the doors so that the side pillars are slightly extended beyond the canvases. If you have to assemble the structure yourself:
- The frame is laid on a flat board or floor.
- Fasten the box with screws.
- Insert latches around the perimeter.
Indents are made from above and below at a level of 25 cm for inserting 2 loops, the third is fixed 50 centimeters from the structure. The hole for the lock is drilled at a distance of 0.85 m from the bottom of the canvas.
What tools are required
Here is a list of the tools you will need.
- Joiner's corner. Better longer to provide more accurate markings.
- Plane. It will be required to level the end surfaces. And if you need to make a sufficiently voluminous fit, then you need to stock up on both a hand plane and an electric one.
- Plumb line.
- Construction level.
- Hammer.
- Roulette and pencil.
- Construction knife.
- Saw. You will need an electric saw (circular). But sometimes it is enough to use a hand saw.
- Screwdriver and a set of nozzles for it (bit).
- Miter box. This tool will help you cut corners correctly when it comes time to trim wood pieces.
A miter box and a hacksaw are needed to fit
- Extra long screwdriver. It is advisable to have a set, since a tool with both a curved sting and a straight one may be required.
- Chisel and chisel. You will have to remove the wood in layers when you need to prepare the grooves for locks and hinges.
- Hole saw. With its help, holes of a large diameter are cut out in a round shape.
Drill bit for wood
- It may additionally require sandpaper with abrasive grains of different diameters, a long ruler with attachments to the surface at the ends (for making a straight, straight cut with a power tool).
Problem of choice
Before you put an interior door, you must first select it. When choosing, there are 2 main criteria - this is the size of the structure and the material from which the doors and the frame for them are actually made.
Material selection
Installation is not so important interior door in a wooden house or a room in an urban high-rise building, the design should be not only beautiful, but also reliable, and this primarily depends on the material. Fiberboard is perhaps the most common option.
The structure is a hollow box on both sides closed with thin sheets of fiberboard and based on a frame made of wooden blocks
Fiberboard is perhaps the most common option. The structure is a hollow box on both sides closed with thin sheets of fiberboard and based on a frame made of wooden blocks.
You should not rush to install such a door, it is certainly light and cheap, and it may look pretty decent, but not everything is in order with reliability, such a structure can even be broken with a fist, plus it is highly likely that in a couple of years it will begin to exfoliate.
MDF is the golden mean between cheap fiberboard and good wood construction. The array is dense, durable, and most importantly completely environmentally friendly.Self-assembly of interior laminated MDF sheets at home is an excellent way out if there is no money for installers, but you want a beautiful door.
Natural wood - it is traditionally considered that the installation of wooden doors is the best option, but this is wrong, here you need to look at the quality and the manufacturer's firm. Believe me, sometimes it is better to insert interior doors from a good MDF laminate than to take raw pine, which will lead in six months.
GOSTs, tolerances and unclear issues
The size of the doorway for installation is perhaps the most important of the initial parameters. To this day, all such designs are made according to Soviet GOSTs, by the way, the Chinese are also guided by these dimensions, but in Europe, despite the supposedly uniform standard, many countries do it in their own way.
So if our minimum width of the canvas starts from 600 mm and further with a step of 100 mm, it reaches 900 mm, then France produces canvases starting from 690 mm, but the graduation also goes with a step of 100 mm.
As for the tolerances, a gap of 3 mm is left between the box and the web itself on the sides and on top. According to the rules, at least 20 mm must be made between the floor and the canvas. This gap is needed for normal ventilation in the apartment.
Along the perimeter of the box in block buildings, you can leave any gap, up to a few millimeters, the main thing is that the box becomes even, but if we cut the doors in a wooden house with our own hands, then we set the tolerance at least 15 mm, it is needed in case the house gives shrinkage.
When an interior door is selected, the installation is already the last stage, before that you need to read the description in detail, because the price may be indicated depending on the configuration, there are 3 options here:
- Only a door leaf is sold - this option is good if the door is planned to be installed on an old frame;
- The canvas is sold together with the box, but the box is disassembled, here, even before installing the interior door with your own hands, you will have to cut it to size and assemble the box, which in most cases is even good;
- Fully assembled blocks with a ready-made box, curtain, locks and hinges are installed only if preparation of the opening is not required. There it is enough to cut the racks in height and install the interior door yourself.
There is another important question - when to install interior doors during renovation? So, the instructions for installing interior doors say that such structures are mounted at the very end of the repair, after finishing the walls, floor and ceiling, but before installing the floor plinths.
What will the installation lead to after finishing?
Recall that to install the door frame, it is often necessary to use a perforator to screw in the anchors. And there is a chance that the recently laid finishing wall covering will crack if it is decorative plaster, or crumble from vibration if it is tiles. Proceeding from this, it is possible to take a compromise during the repair, when the box is mounted in advance, closed with masking tape, and the doors can be installed later, after the work is completed.
Door leaf installation process
Sometimes the leaf of the sash is necessary so that there are no drafts in the room, and then it is preferable to install interior doors before the rough or decorative finish is started. In this case, it is better to leave the old doors for a while.
If it is necessary to install additional elements before fixing the box, you will also need to finish them so that they do not differ from the surface of the walls in the room. And if the plastering and finishing coatings have already been applied, a stand-out stripe may appear around the jamb, contrasting the finish. Returning to the flooring - depending on the material chosen, the sub-layer and the finishing layer can greatly raise the level of the floor in the room.But it is not always possible to say in advance how much, since the lining, like the flooring itself, can have different thicknesses. Therefore, it is recommended to install the threshold and door frame after the floors have been laid.
Choosing a door
The first thing you should pay attention to when choosing a canvas and a box is the material of their manufacture. Fiberboard is used for the production of budget doors and frames
The material does not protect the room from extraneous sounds, absorbs moisture, filling will lead in the very first off-season.
Fiberboard is used for the production of budget doors and frames. The material does not protect the room from extraneous sounds, absorbs moisture, filling will lead in the very first off-season.
It is strongly not recommended to choose a fiberboard box, it quickly deforms even under the weight of the door.
MDF is a more reliable material with a high density, average in the price-quality ratio.
It is strong enough to withstand mechanical stress, does not absorb moisture, muffles sounds and lasts a long time.
Solid wood is ideal for making and installing a box. It will not drive from moisture, it will support the weight of any door. Laminated wood is additionally revetted, untreated timber is not inferior to laminated timber in performance, but it will have to be painted or decorated.
The ideal option is to purchase a box and canvas from the same material. Do not give preference to wood fiber board, doors made of it are short-lived, they are installed on construction sites so that new owners can replace them with permanent ones from more durable materials.
Ideally, it is worth acquiring a solid array as a door filling; to reduce the cost, the canvas can be replaced with MDF, which is also a durable raw material for making a door, a cheaper frame.
Additional strips and platbands can be made of fiberboard, wood or MDF. They do not carry loads, they only decorate the gaps and mask the connections.
Double-leaf doors are more often chosen for large rooms and halls; single-leaf blocks are installed in bedrooms and kitchens. In any case, the size of the box and the number of canvases is determined by the size of the opening.
Careful removal of the door frame
To remove the door frame, it is necessary to detach the decorative trim around the perimeter, and also carefully chisel the layer of putty with a chisel to the main material of the walls. After that, with the help of a crowbar, they carefully pry the box at the points of attachment to the wall in order to tear them off the spot. This should be done first with a little effort at several points on each side, so that cracks do not appear in the tree. Dismantling can be significantly accelerated by making small cuts along the connecting seams in the upper part of the box, taking them out of the opening in parts. If the space between the box and the base material is large enough, then the fasteners can be cut off with a grinder using an appropriate disc.
Dismantling of interior doors
Immediately before starting the installation of new openings and doors, dismantle the old structures
This work must be done very carefully and carefully.
Dismantling the old box
The more it remains intact, without damage, the less you will have to spend on it, and it will also be easier to carry out further preparation, and subsequently the installation of doors. Dismantling work must be carried out in the following order:
- The door leaf must be removed from the hinges, and if this fails, dismantled with the hinges (unscrew the self-tapping screws that fixed the curtains to the box).
- Inspect the entire doorway carefully and remove any trim that is not holding well.
- Remove the platbands. This should be done with a crowbar, very carefully.
- The foam that filled the gaps should also be removed with a regular hacksaw.
- The old door frame must be sawed vertically in several places.
- Remove the sawn-off elements, starting from the lower parts.
- Eliminate the upper and lower (if there is a threshold) horizontal parts of the doorway.
- Remove all used mounting elements with a sharp knife.
Preparation of works
If the product is purchased assembled, then there will be much less installation problems than with self-assembly. Because the installers will have to assemble the door frame, cut in the hinges, lock and only then change the doors, mount the platbands. Such a complex of works results in additional costs for the customer. The door leaf is positioned vertically.
To avoid deviations, a level or plumb line is used. Sometimes the box, set at the level, protrudes beyond the doorway. It is necessary to eliminate this defect with plaster or putty. It is not recommended to adjust the door leaf to the wall, so as not to hold onto the constantly opening door later.
At the stage of repair, at which the interior doors are installed, do not forget about the presence of side and upper gaps. It is desirable that there be at least 1–2 cm on each side. Gaps are needed for a possible correction of the web and the subsequent foaming of the void. It is also necessary to take into account the gaps at the bottom of the canvas, so that after spreading the linoleum, it does not rub on the floor.
If the door is factory-made, then manufacturers take this factor into account. But, sometimes you have to install doors when repairing hand-assembled. In this case, the gap is made at least 8 mm. In other words, when assembled, the door sill (side pillars) should protrude beyond the door leaf.
In addition, with self-assembly, you need to make a gap between the canvas and the bow on the inside. To do this, lay the prepared frame on a flat floor on the eve of twisting the box with screws and insert clips with a thickness of 3-5 mm around the entire perimeter. To insert the hinges, you need to indent the bottom and top by 250 mm. If the customer wishes to install three hinges, then it must be fixed at a distance of 500 mm from the top. The lock insert must be done at a distance of 850 mm from the bottom of the door leaf.
How to get started on the preparation of doorways
It is not enough to buy an interior door, it is necessary to carry out high-quality preparation of the doorway - a guarantee that the interior doors will last a long time, will not warp or deform during operation.
The entire preparation process is divided into several stages:
-
Dismantling the old door leaf.
-
Removing platbands from the walls.
-
Thorough cleaning of insulating materials that usually fill the space between the doorway and the frame - polyurethane foam, gaskets and others.
-
Dismantling the old door frame. Start first with the side pieces - make cuts at an angle to the wall, then break off the bottom, then the top. Next, saw off the upper horizontal bar and, if available, the lower one.
-
Removal of remnants of assembly materials. This can be done with a sharp knife.
-
Measurement of the doorway, checking it for compliance with new doors. When measuring, do not forget to take into account the floor covering, which also adds volume.
-
Leveling and plastering the doorway. It is necessary to achieve a perfectly flat U-shaped surface. In this case, the upper part of the opening must be strictly parallel to the lower one, and the side ones - to each other, otherwise in the future this may lead to distortions, deformation and other undesirable consequences. The thickness of the walls should be the same along the entire perimeter of the doorway. Use the level while working.
Standard and custom sizes of doorways
There are standard door leaf sizes for which door openings are adjusted:
Standard door leaf size (Width x Height, mm) | Recommended doorway size (Width x Height, mm) |
550 x 1900 | 630-650 x 1960-1980 |
600 x 1900 (2000) | 680-700 x 1960-1980 / 2060-2080 |
700 x 2000 | 780-800 x 2060-2080 |
800 x 2000 | 880-900 x 2060-2080 |
900 x 2000 | 980-1000 x 2060-2080 |
1200 (600 + 600) x 2000 | 1280-1300 x 2060-2080 |
It often happens that the opening may not correspond to the standard dimensions of the interior door. For example, if you have started a renovation with a special design, then you will probably need work to expand or narrow the doorway. Don't worry, these are solvable problems.
Other repair options
Problems with interior doors are not always caused by a breakdown of the locking mechanisms. This interior detail is constantly exposed to external influences: temperature changes, changes in humidity levels, and more. This influence has a negative effect on the condition of wood and fittings. If problems arise that are not related to the handles, then before proceeding with the repair, the door must be removed from the hinges. For this, the canvas opens to its maximum width and is propped up from below. Then the hinges on the door are unrolled.
Fixing the box
Frame deformation is the most time consuming problem that affects interior doors. To eliminate this defect, you will need to perform the following steps:
- Determine the place where the deformation occurred. To do this, measure the sides of the door frame diagonally and identify discrepancies.
- Remove the door frame.
- If the box is fixed with anchor bolts, the latter need to be tightened.
- Remove the foam with a utility knife and install the spacers.
- Apply a new layer of polyurethane foam.
If the door frame is attached to dowels inserted into a concrete or brick wall, new holes will have to be drilled in the latter. In cases where the deformation is due to the swelling of the wood, using a planer, part of the material is removed from problem areas.
Replacement of hinges and platbands
If the doors sag, you will need to tighten the self-tapping screws on the hinges or replace the latter. The second option is more laborious, since it will require cutting out new holes. To do this, you first need to put spacers between the door and the box and mark according to the dimensions of the hinges. Then, using a chisel, new holes are cut. At the end, the hinges are fastened to the door and frame with self-tapping screws.
To replace the defective casing, it is necessary to remove the old part, remove the rest of the polyurethane foam and attach the blank to the opening. Then from this element, at a distance of 5 millimeters from the box, it is necessary to cut off the excess part at an angle of 45 degrees. Similar actions need to be carried out with the other two blanks.
Restoration
The restoration of a wooden door is carried out according to the following algorithm:
- The door leaf is removed, sanded and puttyed (if deep defects are detected).
- The tree is treated with an antiseptic and primed.
- The door is covered with paint, varnish or other material.
- New platbands are installed to match the color of the door leaf.
If necessary, the old fittings can be replaced during the restoration.
Painting and decor
The decoration of door leaves is carried out taking into account personal preferences. For staining, it is recommended to use acrylic paints or furniture varnish. You can also apply different patterns to the door using special stencils.
p> Share link:
What time is the installation of door blocks carried out?
Self-installation of interior and exterior doors is a rather difficult task. Its implementation requires some skills, a lot of attention. The work does not tolerate mistakes. When to install doors? The room must be prepared in a special way:
The order of installation of the door block.
- The walls in the rooms must be plastered, putty and ready for finishing.
- The subfloor must be fully equipped.
- All wet work in the room must be completed, otherwise the installed doors will warp from dampness.
- It is necessary to accurately carry out all the necessary measurements.Errors in measurements will lead to wasted time and money, since the doorway will have to be increased or decreased.
- The doorway must be vertically aligned, otherwise the doors will be installed incorrectly and will not fit into the interior.
- The installation can be carried out both in summer and in winter. The main thing is that the room is warm and dry. In a private house, it is recommended to do this work in the summer, when the temperature and humidity in the room are constant.
Some craftsmen install doors before finishing the floors and walls, but they do it without platbands. Platbands are fixed in place after finishing. Other specialists carry out the installation of doors after finishing finishing work, explaining this by the fact that the door leaf can be damaged during cladding.
Installation of the door frame.
A compromise option is to mount the door frame before finishing the finish, and put the canvas later. This makes it possible to install the box more accurately and not damage the facing material on the walls and on the floor. In this case, it is recommended to seal the surface of the box with masking tape after installation, which will protect it from possible damage during finishing work. At the end of the finishing, the door leaf and platbands are installed.
Installation of doors in the bathroom is done last. In other rooms that are prepared for wallpapering, doors can be installed both before and after wall decoration. Each case has its own pros and cons. If they are installed before gluing, the advantage will be that the dust, which is inevitable when installing the door frame, will not get on the wallpaper. The disadvantage of this method is that it will take time to trim the wallpaper and refuel it behind the installed door trim.
The process of installing an entrance metal door.
If the doors are installed after wallpapering the walls, you can hide behind the elements of the box and behind the platbands some defects made by plasterers and painters. This is a plus. The downside may be incorrectly cut wallpaper at the doorway, which cannot be closed with a platband.
What needs to be done first: install laminate flooring or install a door? There is no big difference. If you correctly consider the height of the floor surface after laying the laminate, you can install the box and the canvas before laying the laminate.
It is only important to think over correctly the direction in which the door should open.
Before completing all finishing work, it is recommended to install door blocks in the event that it is necessary to reduce or increase doorways in width or height. This work is associated with the appearance of a large amount of dirt and dust. All this can ruin the wall cladding, ceiling and floor.
Correction of defects
It is far from always possible to expose the door the first time. An insufficient number of external spacers or internal catches can cause the assembled door leaf to move. If, at the next stage of the repair, interior doors are installed, and internal squeezing of the canvas has occurred, then it will be necessary to cut out the foam in the area of friction of the canvas against the chute.
Then you need to re-insert the clamps and blow out the box with foam. If the door is springy when closed, then one or both of the hinges will have to be deepened. Another problem can be arbitrary door opening. The owner will have to come to terms with this or completely cut out the door frame and reinstall it in level. If there is laminate on the floor, the spontaneously opening door will scratch it. This sometimes happens due to inaccuracy of the tool or a failure when driving in spacers.
Advice - if the owner of the premises makes an independent replacement of the door, then it is better to buy a finished product that only needs to be screwed
During installation, you also need to pay special attention to the walls.If the walls are uneven, then the ludka is taken with a margin so that you can set it on the level
After that, the irregularities need to be plastered.
Antique finish
Artificial aging is suitable for door leaves made of:
- larch;
- pine trees;
- maple.
The choice of aging method also depends on personal preference.
Brushing
This option provides for the processing of the door leaf with a metal brush. The latter is used to remove the soft layer. After the procedure, the remains of the wood are removed with a polymer brush. Then the door is covered with varnish or paint.
Staining
The aging effect can be achieved by applying two layers of stain, diluted first in water and then in a solvent. After the procedure, it is recommended to rub the door leaf with wax.
Patination
A patina effect can be achieved if, after the first layer of paint has dried, apply the next one, which has a lighter shade, and wipe immediately. After that, the surface must be varnished.
Craquelure
Craquelure is a special composition that gives the wood "aging" effect. The material is applied over the first coat of paint. Thanks to the craquelure, a mesh of cracks appears on the surface of the door leaf.
Doors - floor
There is one more problem in the renovation: should we put entrance doors before or after flooring? The answer in this case is unambiguous. The draft version can be laid at the very beginning of the repair. However, the final floor covering - laminate, tiles, linoleum - must be laid close to the door frame, so the entrance system is first mounted.
The box should be positioned in such a way that the bottom of the canvas does not rub against the floor covering. The stock is needed as insurance against canvas subsidence. When installing street doors overlooking an open porch, you should take into account the possible formation of ice on the surface.
Particular attention should be paid to setting the threshold. It should not be too low so that the flooring does not "hang" over it
In this case, it will be impossible to ideally perform the abutment, securely and beautifully fix the overlay element.