When and how to plant grapes with cuttings?

Grapes - one of the few berries to which there are practically no indifferent ones. Many people strive to plant a bush in their area. But it is not enough to just take care of it, you need to know how to plant it correctly, prepare the ground and grow a full-fledged plant from a cutting.

Such knowledge is necessary when a favorite liana is ill or when a bush is severely frozen. In such a case, you can take a seedling from a dying variety and use a cutting to grow a new bush of the variety you like.

Content:

Preparing the landing site

Preparing the landing site

In order for grape seedlings to grow well in the planted area and develop fruitfully, it is necessary to choose the optimal site for rooting. The grapes never give up the bright, baking sun and abundant heat.

It is advisable to choose a place so that the bush is on the south side, in a well-lit area, but behind a protective wall or fence from drafts and winds.

Preparation of the landing area (school). Begins in the middle of spring. In April, on warm days, you should dig up the soil 40 cm deep. Dig a hole in the designated place to place the cutting. It should be at least 80 cm deep (preferably 1 m), and from 60 cm in diameter. It is recommended to divide the dug earth into 2 equal parts - the upper and lower soil.

At the bottom of the prepared landing hole, gravel is laid out, with a layer of 12-15 cm. It must be carefully leveled and tamped tightly. The right moment is the pipe, which is mounted on the southwest side of the recess. The length of the device should not be less than 1 m, and the diameter should not exceed 0.5 cm (a small hose or tube will do). This design is necessary to saturate the roots in depth with nutritious moisture.

It is recommended to add a potting mix to one of the divided parts of the soil from:

Each of the components is taken in equally equal proportions and quantities. In addition, mineral fertilizers (superphosphate and potassium sulfate) must be added to the substrate. The potting mix is ​​mixed first, and the top dressing is added last. At the bottom of the pit, first of all, lay out fertile prepared soil. This part should be exactly half of the dug hole. In the second half, the rest of the usual garden land is poured. In this state, the prepared site is awaiting spring planting. The preparation is carried out approximately 1.5 months before the planned planting work.

Preparation of grape cuttings

Preparation of grape cuttings

Preparation of cuttings begins long before planting - in the autumn. They are cut from the grape varieties that you want to multiply. The workpiece is carried out at the moment trimming bushes in late September - early October, with a sharp clean pruner or knife. It is recommended to choose those cuttings that have already borne fruit once. Such shoots can be both green and already woody. Such seedlings significantly increase the yield of young shrubs.

The size of the selected vine should be from 1 cm in diameter, and in length - it requires 4 to 8 healthy buds to be placed on it. After cutting the vine on the shoot, all antennae, stepsons, unripe tops and leaves are removed. For the moment of wintering of the cutting, a special preparation procedure is highlighted:

  1. Mark or sign the prepared grape samples.
  2. Soak them for 24 hours, soaking the shoots well with moisture.
  3. Place the seedlings for 30 minutes for disinfection in a solution of either potassium permanganate or ferrous sulfate.
  4. Blot the stems with a soft, absorbent cloth or paper towel (napkin).
  5. Spread them out spaciously and dry thoroughly.

The next action is aimed at the safety of the shoots during the storage period - they need to be dipped in the lower and upper layers in molten paraffin and wrapped in a damp cloth, wrapping it all in polyethylene. Paraffin is necessary not only to prevent pests from entering the vine during the onset of winter, but also to preserve moisture inside the shoot.
It is advisable to store the prepared material for planting either on the balcony or in the basement on the lower shelf, the one closer to the ground, or in a dry cellar or in a refrigerator specially allocated for such purposes. The optimum temperature for the preservation of future bushes is 0 + 2 C.

The main thing is to periodically look into the packed seedlings and check their condition.

In case of damage to the cuttings or their part (drying out, mold or decay), it is necessary to remove the damaged area with a clean sharp instrument and re-carry out the measures for moistening, disinfecting and drying. Then send it back for storage. In this state, the vine should stay until spring, then it is taken out for planting.
Thus, by making simple manipulations, it is possible to grow any varieties. grapes... The main thing is the time of winter, when any negative conditions - high humidity, high subzero temperatures, can affect the safety of seedlings.

Rooting cuttings: terms and rules

 terms and rules

Ready-made seedlings are planted in open ground, when the temperature outside is kept at + 10 + 12 C and the earth begins to gradually warm up. This moment comes approximately at the end of April - beginning of May. So that the soil warms up faster, it is either wrapped in a foil, or hot water is poured out.

Before the planting event, a sprout should be prepared:

  • The first step is to refresh the pruning - with a sharp pruner, cut off a small area above the autumn cuts at both ends.
  • Place the vine completely in water for 1-2 days.
  • To protect against pests it is now necessary to treat only the upper edge of the shoot with hot paraffin or cover it with garden pitch.
  • The lower end is placed in a solution with a root growth stimulator (Heteroauxin, Kornevin).

Now you can do two things: put in a plastic bottle or put in water:

  1. If the choice fell on the first option, then holes are made in the bottom of the bottle, and the top is cut off. A small drainage layer (expanded clay, broken brick) is poured onto the bottom. It is covered on top with a thin layer of garden soil prepared in advance. A seedling is set next. It is imperative to adjust the slope of the planting - the sprout should be placed at an angle so that the upper bud of the vine is level with the upper cut of the container. It is not the soil that is poured into the bottle, but the pre-steamed old sawdust. From above, the structure is covered with a plastic cup, thereby reproducing the greenhouse conditions. The flowerpot is exposed in a sunny warm place. Watering is carried out only through the pallet. The glass should be removed only when the growing leaves can no longer fit into the space allotted to them. The optimum temperature for germination is + 23 + 25 C.
  2. The second method of planting involves placing the seedling in a jar of water, which should be periodically added as it evaporates.The stalk is placed so that the lower cut is closed by 3-4 cm with liquid. After 2-3 weeks, the process of swelling of the kidney will begin, and on the 20th day after being placed in the water, the first rudiments of the roots will appear. Now the sprout should be placed in a flowerpot, at the bottom of which drainage is poured, then the mixture for planting. The stalk is set evenly in the container and covered with earth to the edges of the pot, but so that the growing bud is above the ground level. Early planting is necessary, due to the fact that there is a possibility of breaking the grown young roots, and this takes a lot of energy from the plant. During the growth and rooting of young plants, it is recommended to harden young plants - remove the plastic cup and take it out into the fresh air.

The transshipment of rooted seedlings is carried out no earlier than several full-fledged green leaves are formed on the cuttings. They are planted in prepared pits. The plant is well moistened before transplanting so that the earth comes out of the flowerpot without effort. The lump with the seedling is carefully removed from the bottle and placed in the finished planting site.

Top covered with earth and watered. Disembarkation is recommended in the evening after sunset or on a cloudy day. Fruiting begins the next year, if the sprout is properly cared for.

Caring for grapes after planting

Caring for grapes after planting

The grape itself is a rather capricious plant, and its young seedlings especially require increased care and attention. After planting shoots in open ground, you should not throw the shoot into an independent existence:

  • It is recommended to carefully monitor the moisture content of the substrate. Do not delay the drying out of the soil until cracks form. Moderate intermittent watering is suitable for good growth and development.
  • Do not forget to loosen from time to time near the stem. So a large amount of air and moisture enters the roots, it is better fed into the depths of the earth. During irrigation, water does not roll off the soil, but deeply penetrates the entire soil.
  • In addition to loosening, it is necessary to uproot the appeared weeds... If the process is started, then they will simply clog the young shoot, and this entails inhibition of the development of the sprout.
  • It is not yet necessary to fertilize the shoot, since at the time of soil preparation they were introduced as mineral fertilizersand organic... Top dressing will be needed only for the 2nd year of life.
  • In the following months, you need to closely monitor the condition of the bush. Conduct prophylaxis against diseases and pests by spraying. Also perform seasonal pruning and cover for the winter if the variety is afraid of frost.

Thus, planting new grapes is not at all difficult, the main thing is to know the basic rules for preparing both the planting site and the seedlings, not only in spring, but also in winter. Self-grown grapes are the greatest reward for any gardener.

More information can be found in the video:

Category:Shrubs | Grapes
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If the cuttings are planted in a room in February, then the grapes will begin to bear fruit already in the second year after planting in open ground. If, however, cuttings that have not sprouted and without leaves are planted directly into the ground in the garden, then the vine will bear fruit only in the third year.