What drills are needed for making furniture with your own hands?

Installation process of locks

Having picked up the most necessary tool, you can proceed to the installation of the door leaf. We will not describe the entire process from beginning to end, since this does not correspond to the topic of the article. Let's talk only about the process of inserting the locking device, breaking it, for the convenience of presentation, into stages.

To summarize, we note that installing locks in a door leaf requires minimal carpentry skills and a suitable tool. All the work from start to finish can be done by hand. You need to know not only what tools are required, but also which cutter is needed for a particular stage of work. If you manage to study and prepare all this, then the work will give you pleasure, and the result will bring satisfaction.

Design trends are constantly changing, so apartment owners do not so rarely make repairs and install new interior doors. Some resort to the help of professionals, while others believe that they will cope with such a task on their own. But in order to accurately insert the lock, you will need to use special tools, such as a cutter.

Shock absorber and soft closing system

Shock absorbers are essential for the comfortable operation of furniture. After all, it is not enough fun if the doors slam hard when closing ?! You can eliminate this unpleasant circumstance with the help of shock absorbers. There are several different types of shock absorbers, which differ in technical capabilities and installation method.

The simplest type of shock absorber, and the cheapest, is the damper. There are several options for dampers, the simplest is a self-adhesive damper. It is a disc with a diameter of 7-10 mm and a thickness of 1.5-2 mm. It is made of soft material that perfectly dampens the sound from the closing door. Such a damper has an adhesive layer, making it very easy to stick it to the end of the cabinet. It should be noted that this is the most common way to eliminate door slamming.

Increase

Fig. 32.

Another option for solving the problem of silent door closing is a furniture shock absorber. Its cost is higher than the previous version, but it has the effect of smoothly closing the door. There are 3 types of shock absorbers: a hinge shock absorber, an overhead shock absorber and a mortise shock absorber. They all work the same way. The choice in favor of this or that design depends only on your preferences.

Loop shock absorber
mounted directly on the hinge on which the door is held. For this, the loop must be equipped with a special groove to which the shock absorber will be attached. You can give advice, if your choice fell in favor of this constructive group of shock absorbers, then it is advisable to purchase hinges and shock absorbers at the same time, and from one manufacturer.

Increase

Fig. 33.

It should be said that there are varieties of hinges with an already built-in shock absorber in the hinge design. Naturally, such hinges are more expensive than conventional hinges, but they do not take up extra space inside the cabinet.

Overhead and mortise shock absorbers
not tied to the design and type of hinges. In addition, they differ only in the presence of an installation platform for the former. An overhead shock absorber is attached to the inner surface of the box. For a mortise shock absorber, it is necessary to make a hole in the end of the box wall with a diameter of 10 mm and a depth of 55 mm. The advantage of an overhead shock absorber is the possibility of replacing it in the event of a breakdown, although this happens extremely rarely, a mortise shock absorber will be much more difficult to replace.The advantage of a mortise shock absorber is that it does not take up space inside the cabinet.
Fig. 34.
Overhead (left) and mortise (right) shock absorber. Another type of shock absorbers: overhead and built-in. The first type of shock absorbers has its own body and can be replaced if necessary, but it takes up the space of the box. The second type is installed in the hole in the end of the box. It does not take up space, but it is much more difficult to replace it.

There are no restrictions on the place of installation of the shock absorbers, its efficiency depends on many factors, such as the installation location, door weight, closing force, etc. However, there are the following recommendations: it is advisable to install the shock absorber at a distance of 150-200 mm from the wall on which the hinges are installed.

Advantages

In carpentry work, there are situations when you have to carry out the process on site. In order not to make grooves with a chisel, which does not always come out neatly, it is recommended to use a milling cutter. This tool is used when installing door structures and makes work easier.

Milling cutter

The tapping cutter will help you get the job done faster, more accurately and more accurately. Manual comes in various types. The tool is completed with special devices, with the help of which a hole is made for a handle or a lock device.

In addition, it is possible to purchase an additional kit that can easily and quickly cut different holes. Along with the tool itself, a cutter can be included in the kit, which will help to make a cut from hard alloy of different diameters. It is equipped with rods and protectors to do the same type of work, cutting in locks with minor differences.

There is a large selection of cutters on the market, with the help of which various jobs are performed. They are divided into groups:

• Edging. Performs carved parts and edges for the product.
• Groove. Performs grooves, indentations, indentations of various depths in wood surfaces.

• Figirenaya. With its help, the edges of the panels are processed.
• Spiral. With her participation, they make round holes for handles in the door leaf.

To install the lock in the door leaf, you will need a groove cutter of a suitable length. With its help, it is easy to make an even and suitable recess at the end of the canvas. with the same tool, a place for the hinges is also prepared.

To make a round, neat hole in the canvas for a knob handle, a spiral cutter is useful.

Buttonhole insertion order

1. Mark the furniture door based on the recommended hinge spacing.

2. Resting the stopper against the end, place the template on the door and secure with a clamp.

3. Place the router in the working area, lower the tool body down until the router touches the workpiece surface and clamp the locking lever.

4. Lower the depth gauge to the positioning support.

5. Count on the scale 11.5 mm and adjust the position of the stopper.

6. Tighten the milling depth adjuster lock.

7. Adjust the parameter with the micrometer screw.

8. Release the locking lever.

9. Turn the positioning foot to set the depth of the first pass.

10. Start the router, press down on the housing and lock the position. Smoothly running the tool over the work surface, cut the material, starting at the circle and going to the center.

11. After completing the pass, release the latch. Rotate the support to the next position and repeat the process until the groove is completely depleted.

Advice. In the absence of a sawdust removal system, it is recommended to clean the working area with a vacuum cleaner after each pass in order to avoid milling defects.

12. The neat seat is ready.

13. Insert the hinge into the recess, align and mark the location of the screws.

14. Start drilling for the screws, limiting the drilling depth.

15. Install the hinges with countersunk screws.

After cutting in the hinges, go to the door suspension, for which mark the location of the mating parts.In our example, the marking for screws is located 37 mm from the end of the chipboard board. For other modifications of the fittings, determine the size in place: after assembling the hinge and setting the front adjustment screw in the middle, lean the door against the sidewall with a gap of 2 mm and put marks through the oblong holes. Finish the work with adjusting operations.

Adjustment screws: 1 - in height; 2 - in depth; 3 - in width.

In a similar way, it is easy to calculate and make templates both for installing cup loops of other sizes, and for cutting out other holes.

The furniture hinge has a cup on one side, which cuts into the door array. The standard cup diameter is 35 mm. To install the loop with your own hands, you need to get a forstner drill and do the following:

Attach the door to the cabinet body and mark with a pencil the places of abutment to the shelves.
Measure at several points at right angles from the edge of the door 22 mm. Connect the dots in one line.
Mark the centers of the grooves at a distance of 10 cm from the top and bottom of the door plate. If the points align horizontally with the shelves inside the cabinet, move them vertically.
Place the stove on the floor or workbench and carefully make the notches with a forstner drill (ø 35 mm)

This must be done very carefully so that the drill does not come out. The best option is to purchase a drill with a stop, it will stop at the desired depth.
As you drill, insert the cup of the hinge into the groove until, when pressing on the cross bars with holes, they will not wiggle

This is not necessary when working with a limiter.
Lower the hinge cups into the openings so that the line of the holes in the planks is strictly parallel to the side edge of the door. Fix the hinges with screws.
Lean the door against the body so that the hinge shoulders rest against the cabinet wall. Screw the fasteners through the holes in the second half of the hinge.
Two hinges are installed on the doors of wall and floor cabinets. In the case of installing a pencil case door leaf with a height of more than a meter, three hinges are installed.

When installing double-leaf hinges, you need to determine the thickness of the plates. Usually this size does not exceed 2 - 3 mm. Having determined the attachment points on the end surface of the side pillars of the door frame, the halves of the hinges are applied to the tree and outline the contour of the plate with a pencil.

Detachable hinges can be left and right. Their correct location should be as follows: plates with a pin are fixed in the cabinet opening with an upward axis. The door hinge plates are installed with the sockets down.

At the end of the door at the hinge installation site, the thickness and length of the plate are noted. Carefully select excess wood with a chisel. If you own a hand router, then the grooves for the hinges can be made quickly and easily.

With the plate attached to the installation site, trace the holes for the screws with a pencil. After removing the loop, make shallow holes (5 mm) at the marking points with a drill with a thin drill. Using a screwdriver, you can easily fix the hinges with self-tapping screws on the doors and cabinet body.

Homemade jig devices

Conductors of the simplest design, for example, those used to drill holes for confirmation, are relatively inexpensive, so many craftsmen are not puzzled by their independent manufacture and purchase serial models. Meanwhile, there are those who even try to make such simple devices with their own hands. The question of how to make a jig for drilling with your own hands often appears and, if necessary, drill non-standard holes.

To independently make a jig for dowels or a simpler design jig for confirmations, you can use the drawings and videos on the Internet.

In the manufacture of the jig, perfectly accurate drilling of the pilot holes and hardening of the finished fixture will be required.

For the manufacture of such a device, of course, you will need its drawing.You also need a minimum set of tools and equipment:

• electric or hand drill;
• a set of locksmith tools;
• Bulgarian;
• welding machine (for the manufacture of jig devices of a more complex design).

The simplest homemade jig can be made from improvised tools and materials that are abundant in most home workshops or garages. The use of such materials, which include pieces of metal reinforcement, wooden blocks, metal plates, etc., allows you to significantly save on the purchase of a serial model of the device.

Drawing of a homemade jig for drilling holes for confirms

Making a homemade jig for a drill or a single-spindle machine takes place in several stages.

1. Square reinforcement with a section of 10 by 10 mm, using a hacksaw for metal or a grinder, must be cut into pieces of the required length.
2. The centers of the holes through which the drilling will be carried out must be at a distance of 8 mm from the edge of the jig plate. It is at this distance that the center of the chipboard or MDF board is located, in which the hole is drilled.
3. The pitch between the holes on the jig in accordance with generally accepted furniture standards is 32 mm, while the diameter of such holes should be 5 mm.
4. If you equip a homemade jig with an emphasis, then using such a device will be much more convenient. To create such a stop, a metal plate 1 mm thick and 25 mm wide is needed, which is bent at right angles and fixed on a ready-made jig made of reinforcement.
5. After the structural elements of the homemade conductor are fixed with a clamp, they must be securely connected to each other using threaded fasteners.

Finished jig with swivel stops

To minimize the amount of dust generated when using a homemade jig, its design can be supplemented with half a plastic bottle. Such a simple device can also act as a pallet in which the chips formed during the drilling process will be collected.

Calculation principle

For example, there is a 16 mm straight cutter and a 30 mm copying sleeve. It is required to make vertical holes for round bench stops with a diameter of 21 mm. Substituting the values ​​into the formula, we find the size of the circle cut out in the template:

D = 21 + 30 - 16 = 35 (mm).

Mark the plywood and drill a hole with a feather drill of the appropriate diameter.

Sand the edges and surfaces with sandpaper.

Use one piece of plywood for multiple templates at once. Just do not forget to sign the holes, indicating the caliber of the cutter used and the diameter of the circle to be cut.

Types of confirmations and holes for them

Outwardly, the Euro screw resembles a screw, from which it fundamentally differs in the diameter and shape of the cut tooth. This design feature makes it possible to increase the area of ​​contact with the body of the part to be fixed several times. As a result, the reliability of the connection is significantly increased.

One confirmatory replaces 3-4 screws of the same length. For furniture made of chipboard, the indicators are even more impressive. The middle of the leaf is the loosest part of the material. A thin screw is not able to be securely fixed. Due to its larger diameter, the Euro screw captures harder layers of chipboard and it is no coincidence that manufacturers definitely prefer it.

Manufacturers offer a range of different sizes for different types of connections. Not all models can be found in the store. Some are used for special purposes only. They can be ordered or purchased from specialized retail outlets.

The way the confirmation is twisted depends on the shape of the head. It can be hex or cruciform. For small diameter Euro screws (5 mm), use a 3 mm key, and for large products (7 mm) 4 mm.

Drill dimensions are determined in accordance with the table. Depending on the material, the hole for the thread is made either 3.5 mm or 4.5-5 mm. For the head of the confirmation, a diameter of 5 mm and 7 mm, respectively, is required, depending on the brand.

Handle insert - latches

First, let's look at how to install the latch handle. First of all, you should do the markup. Having decided on the height of the handle, place the lock mechanism on the door leaf flush with the edge, circle it, mark with a pencil the place where the eyelet is located - this is where you need to drill a hole for the handle pin.

The horizontal lines of the contour of the lock on the canvas with the help of a carpenter's square must be transferred to the end of the door. Using a tape measure, find the midpoints of the horizontal lines at the end and draw a vertical line with a pencil. The middle of this axis is the center of the future hole for the lock mechanism. You can do it easier and by attaching the door mechanism itself, mark the point of location of the handles.

After completing the markings, drill a hole in the door leaf for the handle using a crown put on a 6 mm drill.

Important!
To avoid the appearance of chips and other damage to the decorative layer, drilling is performed with a crown on both sides. When the end of the pilot drill has gone through the blade and the crown has deepened about half the thickness of the blade, start drilling from the other side of the door by inserting the drill into the hole you made.

The size of the crown is selected in such a way that nothing interferes with the mechanism of the lock to function normally, while the hole should be completely covered with decorative overlays of the handle - latch.

At the end of the door, a hole for the latch is drilled with a feather drill of a suitable size or a small crown. If necessary, the recess can be extended with a chisel.

Then insert the latch mechanism into the hole in the end and trace the outline of the strip. It must be installed flush with the surface, so you will have to make a recess under it with a chisel. At a veneered door, a layer of veneer is first removed in the marked place.

Next, the handle is installed - the latch. The mechanism is inserted into the hole and attached to the end with standard fasteners using a screwdriver or screwdriver. The handle should be dismantled according to the diagram supplied by the manufacturer.

Pay attention to the location of the latch tongue and the handle on which the door close button is provided. After installing the decorative trims, thread the pin through the hole in the latch mechanism and secure the handles by tightening them with screws (in some cases, additional holes need to be drilled under the tightening screws)

Make sure the latch-latch is functioning properly.

At the final stage, a striker is installed on the door frame to fix the latch tab. Carefully close the door with the latch exposed, mark the location for the hole. Using a chisel, make a recess, attach and circle the contour of the striker - you will also need to make a sample under it to install it flush. Secure the bar with standard screws.

The procedure for making a template

1. Determine the thickness of the plywood for the template: it should be slightly larger than the protruding part of the copy sleeve. Too thick material should not be taken - the cutter overhang may not be enough.

2. Measure the outside diameter of the copy sleeve.

3. Calculate the size of the hole to be cut (D) using the formula:

D = D1 + D2 - D3, where:

• D1 - the required diameter of the recess for the loop (26, 35 or 40 mm);
• D2 is the diameter of the copying sleeve;
• D3 - cutter caliber.

For example, for a furniture hinge with a 35 mm cup, a 14 mm cutter and a 30 mm bushing, you will need a template hole with a diameter of 51 mm.

4.Cut a piece out of plywood and mark the center of the hole to be drilled according to the drawing.

5. After placing an unnecessary board, secure the plywood with a clamp and mark the drilling point with an awl.

6. Having set the desired size on the "ballerina", drill a hole.

7. Sand the edges of the hole with sandpaper.

8. Cut a strip 3 cm wide and 14 cm long from the plywood.

9. Draw a line parallel to the axis of the hole at a distance of 22 mm, marking the location of the edge of the furniture door.

10. According to the markings, fix the stop bar with glue and nails.

11. Drag the centerline to the other side of the workpiece to help locate the buttonhole.

12. The template is ready.

Sequential Stages and Sizes for Additive

The additive scheme consists of several sequential stages. First you need to do some preparation. The work surface must be flat and free from contamination. You can put a rubber sheet, stretch film, polyethylene foam under the door. Clamps can be used to prevent the facade from changing position. Safety precautions should be taken before adding

It is important to wear protective gloves and goggles

Markup

Further, the markup is performed. This is a responsible measure that determines the accuracy of the installation and functionality of the door. You can take a finished drawing of the door for the hinges or independently calculate the position of the fittings.

If you calculate the dimensions for the additive yourself, then you need to build on several rules. So from the edge you need to retreat 1.1-1.2 cm. This is an important accuracy criterion that must be observed. The first and last fasteners should be located at a distance of 7-15 cm from the sides of the doors. The number of loops is determined by the dimensions of the facade.

Mounting

After completing the marking, proceed to drilling. It is forbidden to use high speed when performing manipulation. The optimal amount is 1500 rpm. Otherwise, the material will start to burn, and the cutter will become dull. If a hand drill is used, then the movements should be smooth and small in amplitude. This will help improve the sampling performance.

The hole depth can only be controlled manually. For this reason, it is necessary to periodically stop the drilling process in order to measure the depth. The optimum depth is 1.2 cm on average.

Then they move on to the simplest stage - fixing the loops. The fastener is inserted into the prepared hole. Then the bowl is leveled with a square. The attachment points are marked with a marker. Fixation is carried out with two self-tapping screws. Punching is required first.

If you have experience in the additive, then you can screw the fasteners without preliminary marking. An experienced craftsman can use a square for work.

Such a primitive simple additive can be done with your own hands in a relaxed home environment. Mechanized work requires special equipment and skills to work with professional tools. You can make a special machine for the additive yourself, or you can purchase a cheap version of the vertical type. Working with such equipment will reduce time and labor costs. It will be possible to perform the additive faster and better.

How holes are made

To install the hinge, you will first need to prepare the seat. A special drill will help you in this matter.

But simply having a tool is not enough. You still need to do everything right. Otherwise, the price of a mistake is your furniture facade, damaged material. After reading the recommendations and instructions, practice in advance on some segments.

You need a set consisting of:

• tape measures or rulers;
• drill;
• sewed;
• screwdriver;
• drills;
• screwdrivers;
• good lighting;
• pencil or pen;
• means of protection, etc.

The kit may vary depending on the specific situation.

The hinge bowl will need to be cut into the facade. That is, the markup is preliminarily performed on it

It is important to choose the right center of the future hole for the bowl.

The center of the hole is marked 22-23 mm from the edge of the material. This will leave about 5 mm between the edge of the hinge bowl and the edge of the front. Drilling is performed strictly after marking.

It is highly recommended to use cutters with a stop to avoid accidentally drilling a through hole or exceeding the required depth.

Drill at a slight, constantly changing tilt of the power tool.

Upon completion of the work, remove all remnants of the material, try on and proceed with the installation of the fittings.

It is a useful, fairly easy-to-use, and sometimes just a necessary tool for furniture production at home and in a full-fledged factory. Only in the second case, special milling machines are already used. And the Forstner cutter is perfect for those who decided to assemble fittings with their own hands, using a household screwdriver or an ordinary drill for this purpose.

Have you come across such a cutter? Did everything work out the first time, or did you have to learn from your own mistakes?

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