We lay the tiles in the bathroom with our own hands. step-by-step instruction

How to knock down an old tile with your own hands

First, remove the old tile. This requires hammer and chisel... Place the chisel at the smallest possible angle to the surface to be cleaned. Protect yourself, wear protective goggles and gloves. If you have a hammer drill - great! It will significantly speed up your work. By lightly tapping, we determine how well the plaster adheres. In older houses, it is often the case that the solid layer of plaster no longer actually adheres to the wall. In this case, you need to delete it. The completely old coating is removed even if it is made of lime mortar. The most difficult case is an old concrete wall in the bathroom, painted with enamel. Manufacturers of tile adhesives guarantee the quality of the masonry when adhesion of at least 80% of the tile surface to the wall, therefore, the notches on the paint are indispensable. It needs to be brought down. As a rule, a normal hammer gives the best results. But you can also try a hammer drill or a special attachment on an angle grinder. In the video examples, the ceramic tiles have already been knocked down.

After you managed to knock down the old tile with your own hands, we proceed to the next important steps. The cleaned surface is treated with primer to increase adhesion (adhesion). If the surface absorbs it (typical for old brickwork), then the primer is made several times or a special primer “concrete contact” is used (one layer is enough). When priming the surface, you can use the principle "you can't spoil the porridge with oil."

How to properly glue tiles in the bathroom

Getting started with tiles
Fastening the cement board
Tile fitting
Tools and materials

Although it is tedious to do repairs, it is very pleasant at the same time, because everything will be exactly as you plan. Only at first glance it seems that it will be too difficult to glue the tiles, but in fact, you can easily do everything in stages. If you have ever done a repair yourself, then start boldly.

When laying tiles in the bathroom, to give the seams the same size, you can use special plastic inlays, which are removed after the glue dries.

Usually bathroom renovations involve the use of wall tiles.

Where to begin? You should measure the walls in the bathroom, determine the exact height and width, multiply the indicators. Thus, you get the size of each individual wall.

When using a decorative trim profile, you should also measure and record the dimensions that determine the height of the outer edge along the bathtub. The profile is a tile with special rounded edges, the material is indispensable for finishing. It is known that tiles are bought in square meters, other finishing materials, such as profiles, are purchased in running meters or piece by piece.

Ceramic tiles are purchased with a small margin. After calculating the amount of tiles, add 5%. You may need to replace chipped, defective items, this must be taken into account. It is imperative to make sure that the tiles are of the same shade, for this there are letters and numbers. Choosing a tile, you can add patterned, color fragments to the total area. Thus, you will make the masonry more attractive, bright.

Wall leveling and waterproofing

When using a special sealing tape, a layer of waterproofing is first applied, then a tape is glued to it, and another layer of waterproofing is placed on top.

After priming, a waterproofing layer is laid.It consists of two parts: a water-based coating polymer mastic and a polymer-cement bulk waterproofing. The mastic is applied in two layers. After laying the first layer, a break is made for at least 4 hours. After the second layer has dried, a waterproofing solution is prepared. You can use a mixture of the German company "Ceresit". The component is diluted with water in a 1: 1 ratio. When stirring with a low speed drill, make sure that no lumps remain. After preparation, the solution for settling needs at least 20 minutes for the set of the necessary properties. The mixture is poured onto the floor and leveled with a notched trowel. After 6 hours, a second layer of waterproofing is applied. In order to avoid the preservation of air bubbles in the layers, the poured layer is rolled with a needle roller after smoothing with a notched trowel. Complete drying will occur in a day. The floor is level and horizontal. Ceramic floor tiles are laid on it.

After leveling the floor, the walls are leveled according to plaster beacons, using a cement-sand mortar. The sequence of work is the same as on the floor. Unevenness and deviations from the verticality of the wall can be eliminated by using gypsum plaster or using moisture-resistant drywall. Before you start gluing the tiles to the floor, you need to unfold them so that you can see the fit into the dimensions of the room. Bathroom floor tiles should not have a slippery glossy surface. The installation technique involves applying the adhesive with a notched trowel to the floor and tiles. Fastening is done in small areas of 4 - 6 tiles. The tile is pressed into the adhesive with slight transverse movements. The horizontal and flatness of the building level is constantly checked. Adjustments are made with light blows with a rubber mallet.

Alignment

The first stage in preparation for laying tiles is leveling the walls from defects. The wall under the tiles should be perfectly flat, but often they are not very even, and sometimes frankly crooked. That is, the wall is piled inward or outward, and sometimes a depression or bump is located exactly in the middle. This is due to the fact that bricklayers, laying bricks or blocks, reacted to their work inattentively.

To eliminate such serious curvatures, you need to either plaster them using beacons, or close them with drywall.

In the first case, the lighthouses are installed on the walls using a level and a plumb line, thereby creating an even plaster lathing. On them in the future, it is easy to plaster the wall.
The second method is used in cases where the unevenness differences are 6 cm or more. It is impossible to make such a thick layer of plaster, therefore drywall is used. In the most extreme case, if a curved wall burst under the influence of gravity, it is best to disassemble it and lay the brick or blocks again.

Grouting

The grout application depends on the type of tile and grout. Can be applied with fingers, brush, sponge, rubber trowel. The color of the grout matches the tone, or is slightly darker than the main shade. Remains of the mixture are removed 20-30 minutes after application.

Cement based

It can be white or gray. It is produced with and without sand. It is a dry mixture. Diluted with water or latex mixture. Composition with sand content is recommended for joints larger than 3 millimeters, compositions without sand for joints with a width of at least 1-2 millimeters.

Disadvantages: due to constant contact with moisture, gradual destruction is present. The chemical environment also negatively affects the condition of the seams.

Epoxy grout

Consists of epoxy resin with the addition of a hardener.

Pros:

increased resistance to abrasive substances.
the shade remains for a long time.

Minuses:

Respiratory protection is required during work.
Expensive type of grout
The use is justified for joints with a width of 6 millimeters

Furantova

Made from Furfil Alcohol-Furanol

Pros:

Completely water-free formulation
Strong resistance to chemical environments including corrosive acids

Disadvantages:

labor-intensive process of applying the mixture due to complex preparatory work. Paraffin treatment of tiles, after applying grout, warming up with a hairdryer to remove the remnants of the mixture.
Quite high price
Due to the scarce choice of colors, it is not recommended for the bathroom. black is generally not used in this room.

Walls

Laying tiles begins with them. Before starting work, you need to mark the position of the rows, taking into account the seams. Only whole tiles are placed on top. It is not necessary to cover the wall behind the bathroom, but at the same time it is necessary to provide it with at least minimal protection from moisture.

Laying tiles on vertical areas is done from bottom to top

Work starts from the second row from the floor. So that the tile does not move down under its own weight, a support bar is attached to the wall. The bottom row is reported after the top has dried, sawing the tile to the required size.

How to properly glue ceramic tiles on the walls in the bathroom:

Make markings and fix control beacons (plumb lines).
At the level of the second row, screw a bar or metal profile for support.
Apply a small amount of glue to the wall and smooth with a notched trowel.
Glue the first tier of the tile.
There should be a small gap of 2-3 mm between the fragments.
Use the crosses to control the distance between the tiles and monitor the level vertically and horizontally.
Do not lay out all the rows at once, process several lines with interruptions for drying, otherwise the tile will move away from the load.
The bottom row is stacked last.

Electrical wiring

For additional options of many plumbing fixtures, furniture used in the bathroom, a household network cable is required. This is a lighting for a shower, a Moidodyr mixer, a hanging cabinet with a shaving mirror, a pump drive for a cover with a bidet function, a washing machine, and a hair dryer.

It is also better for an electrician to hide behind drywall or inside a plaster, brick, concrete wall. Slotted grooves with engineering systems laid inside them must be leveled flush with the plane of the wall with putty.

We recommend to read: How to make the right wiring in the bathroom - a very detailed article.

What to do if a tile falls off

There can be several reasons why the lining in the bathroom becomes unusable:

Violation of installation technology.
Poor quality installation materials.
Mechanical impact.
Shrinkage of the building.
Failure to follow the instructions for preparing the bonding component.
Poorly aligned walls.

Sometimes, to prevent further detachment of the tile covering in the bathroom, it may be necessary to dismantle the tile adjacent to the defective element.

If the scale of the damage is not global, then a complete overhaul of the entire bathroom can be avoided. When the fragments have peeled off completely and do not have chips or other damage, you can simply glue the fallen off tile back.

During the repair, leave a few pieces of finishing elements in reserve, in case the loose tiles break.

Surface preparation

Before gluing the fallen off tiles in the bathroom, you need to carefully prepare the surface. Otherwise, in the future, the detachment of the wall decoration may be repeated.

If the tile has come off in parts, then it is necessary to remove the remaining fragments from the wall. This can be done with a chisel. You need to chop off the remnants carefully so as not to damage the adjacent fragments.
Check the tightness of adjacent segments. To do this, press on the elements adjacent to the defective area. If there is an offset, you need to dismantle the cladding around the entire perimeter.
Also, using a chisel or a spatula, clean the section of the wall from the old primer and glue.
If the same tile is installed, it is necessary to clean off the remnants of the installation materials from its back. If the layer of adhesive material is difficult to remove, use a grinder. In addition to mechanical action, you can soak the finishing elements for 3-4 hours in warm water. Sand small irregularities with fine abrasive material.
If there are irregularities on the wall, level it with putty and leave to dry for a day.
Apply a coat of primer. To avoid the formation of mold and fungal deposits in the bathroom, the surface of the wall can be treated with a solution containing fungicides.
For further installation of tiles in the bathroom, allow the prepared area to dry completely for 36 hours.

Materials used

The reliability of fixing tiles in the bathroom directly depends on the quality of the adhesion materials. The high quality of the assembly composition increases the chances of finishing elements to serve for more than one decade.

To glue the fallen off tiles in the bathroom, different types of fasteners are used. The choice depends on the specifics of the cladding and the surface of the walls:

Cement-based formulations. You can make them yourself. Mix cement with sand in a ratio of 1: 4. Add water until the consistency of a thick slurry (when applied to a vertical surface, the cement should not drain). To increase the adhesive properties, add PVA glue at the rate of 300 ml. glue for 5 liters. cement mixture.

It is a versatile mortar suitable for use on brick and concrete surfaces in the bathroom. It has high strength, can be used in the presence of large irregularities, for floor tiles. Has low elasticity, which can lead to cracking during shrinkage of a new building.

Before laying the tiles on the cement mortar, for better adhesion, wet them with water.

Liquid nails based on artificial polymers are completely ready-to-use materials that do not require additional dilution. They are used for installing tiles in a bathroom of small size and weight. It is applied to the tile surface with intermittent strokes using a mortar gun. Forms a hydrophobic, flexible glue line. The application surface must be flat. Not suitable for covering large areas.
Epoxy based mastics. Suitable for vertical and floor mounting of medium-sized pieces. Forms a flexible bond that does not crack as a result of building shrinkage (can be used in new homes). Allowed to use with medium unevenness of the walls.
Special adhesives for tiling the walls in the bathroom. Available in two versions: ready-mixed and self-diluting powders. You can choose different degrees of fixation. It is used to install large massive elements (artificial stone, porcelain stoneware). Tile adhesive provides elastic and moisture resistant adhesion of surfaces.

Surface preparation

Tools for preparatory work:

Chisel;
Perforator (for removing tiles);
Sponge (for wallpaper removal);
Primer;
Brush;
Bar;
Nozzle - whisk;
Container for glue;
Glue mixture;
Level.

In order to start the main stage of work, you should take care of intermediate, preparatory matters, which are also included in the technology of laying ceramic tiles on the wall.

To do this, you must first remove all the old finish, be it wallpaper, panels,.

Be sure to use crosses during installation.

What needs to be determined is the magnitude of these particular shortcomings. If they are more than 1 cm, then you should start leveling the walls, since otherwise the correction is due to a greater overlay of the mixture.

So, if the wall is more or less even,. In principle, these actions are not mandatory, however, they are still recommended, since as a result you will improve the adhesion between the mortar and the wall, which will automatically increase the quality of the masonry.
.

While the primed wall dries up, you can attach the timber to the wall, since the technology of laying tiles on the wall is repelled mainly not from the floor line, which may be uneven, but from the timber, which, of course, is set at the level of the masonry second from the bottom of the tile.

Now that the preparatory work included in the technology of laying ceramic tiles on the wall is completed, we can knead the adhesive mixture.

It is best of all, of course, to use a special attachment - a mixer, because manually you will still not be able to mix the mixture uniformly.

Layout types

In fact, there are tons of layouts that can be used when installing tiles in a bathroom. The main picture is often used:

maze;
herringbone;
chessboard;
rhombus and others.

> When choosing the type of pattern, you should take into account where the tiles will be laid, the dimensions and features of the configuration of the room. To facilitate this task, it is recommended that you first apply the pattern to the walls and floor. The second important nuance is that you need to decide on the area where the tiles are laid. If the material is mounted on the floor, then in this case you need to take tiles with a rough surface. When choosing a drawing, it should be borne in mind that some patterns and color combinations can both increase and decrease the size of the room visually. It also depends on the lighting in the bathroom.

Herringbone

This layout is considered the most popular. This option provides for the installation of rectangular tiles at an angle of 45 degrees relative to each other.

Offset

This option involves the use of square tiles of different sizes and colors. Large ones fit with a slight displacement of one side. Small tiles are then inserted into the resulting gap.

Maze

This installation method also involves the use of rectangular tiles, which form a square during installation. A smaller square tile is placed in the center of the resulting shape.

Classic

This is the standard installation option used in many bathtubs due to its ease of installation. The tiles in this case are aligned with each other.

Deck

This method of laying resembles the installation of floor parquet: in both cases, a rectangular material is glued to the treated surface at an angle of 45 degrees.

Rhombus

To make such a layout, it is enough to glue each rectangular tile so that one of the corners is directed towards the floor.

Chess

This option requires tiles of two different colors, which alternate during installation (for example, white-black-white, and so on).

Modular

This option requires tiles of two different colors. Tiles in a dark shade are laid out in a zigzag pattern, and a light shade in a classic way.

Carpet

This method also involves laying two colored tiles. Light tiles are mounted with a rhombus in the middle. This material is used to seal the remaining gaps. And the perimeter is laid out with dark tiles.

How to glue the tiles in the bathroom with your own hands: step by step instructions

When the plaster and screed are completely dry, it's time to start tiling. The video posted at the end of the article will clearly show how to lay tiles in the bathroom with your own hands, but first you should clearly understand the sequence of actions for yourself.

Preparation: important little things

The first place to start laying tiles in the bathroom is priming the walls. Modern ceramic makers say they don't need to be soaked and primed first, but seasoned tilers prefer to go over and over the tiles.It will be annoying if, due to a greasy stain on the back surface, the tile does not adhere well.
On the wall, fix the starting rail strictly horizontally - a wooden bar or profile. Under it, the first row of the trimmed tiles will later lie, and the first whole row is laid above it.
Measure the required amount of water into the mixing container and gradually add the glue powder, stirring with a drill with a mixer attachment. The consistency should be creamy, not spreading.

The technology of laying tiles in the bathroom on the wall

On the wall, apply the mortar with a trowel in a layer the thickness of which is equal to or slightly greater than the thickness of the tile. Work on an area you can tile at a time for 10-15 minutes until the glue has set.
Use a notched trowel to form a relief on the mortar, moving in different directions. Place the tiles firmly and check their position with a level. The bottom edge of the first row is on the starting rail.
Continue laying the first row, placing crosses between the tiles - they allow you to control both the width of the joint and the evenness of the installation.
Use a tile cutter to cut the tiles, and if you need to make a small hole for a pipe or switch, a special cutter will help.

If you are installing a heavy material such as porcelain stoneware, it is best to let the first row grab before you start laying the second. This will protect the masonry from sagging under the influence of gravity.

How to properly glue bathroom tiles to the floor

Floor covering is much easier, and if you have mastered the walls, then everything will work out here for sure. Do not forget to clean the screed from dust, prime it and the tiles. After the primer has dried, feel free to get to work, the technology for laying tiles in the bathroom on the floor looks like this:

Start from the far wall towards the exit. Pre-laying the tiles without mortar will help to properly cut the row along the far wall so that there are whole elements near the exit.
Stretch the string along the direction of the pattern (diagonal or longitudinal) to avoid slipping when wrapping.
Apply glue to the floor, smooth it with a trowel until the thickness is equal to the thickness of the tile. Form a multidirectional relief with a notched trowel.
Place the tile and press it against the glue. Correct horizontal position with a rubber mallet. Remember to wipe off any excess glue from the surface right away.
Plastic crosses will help here as well, while maintaining an equal seam thickness. If the tile has sunk deeper than necessary, pry it off, re-run the glue with a notched trowel and apply the tile.

When the work is over, you deserve a break. Now you have to wait until the adhesive hardens. According to the standards, you cannot enter the room for a couple of days, but the quick-drying varieties allow you to start the next stage after 4 hours.

Grouting

The easiest stage from a technical point of view. For the bathroom, it is better to use waterproof mixtures with antifungal additives. If you bought an epoxy or one-component grout, then you don't even have to fiddle with diluting the mixture. Armed with a rubber trowel, spread the grout into the joints, directing the movements at an angle to the surface. When the composition grasps, immediately wash the tiles from residues, since after gaining final strength it will be much more difficult.

Now you just have to check how correctly the information has been assimilated. Watch the video "We put the tiles in the bathroom with our own hands" and you can proceed to the practical part.

Preliminary work

Before laying the tiles, special attention is paid to the preparation of the walls. The walls and floor are inspected for unevenness, potholes, deviations from the horizontal of the floor sections and from the vertical sections of the walls, identifying areas with mold

Measurements are taken of all surfaces to be coated in order to calculate the required number of tiles. When buying, you should provide for a margin of at least 10% to cover the cost of marriage during transportation and during operation. To correctly calculate the number of tiles, it is recommended to draw a scaled bathroom plan and apply the desired pattern on it with the exact location of all borders of the decorative areas. This plan contributes to a more accurate calculation and, therefore, to a careful use of funds. The plan takes into account the places where electrical wiring is laid, the installation of sockets, lamps and hatches for servicing the laid wires. The necessary tools and materials are purchased:

The walls and floor are inspected for detecting irregularities, potholes, deviations from the horizontal of the floor sections and from the vertical of the wall sections, identifying areas with mold. Measurements are taken of all surfaces to be coated in order to calculate the required number of tiles. When buying, you should provide for a margin of at least 10% to cover the cost of marriage during transportation and during operation. To correctly calculate the number of tiles, it is recommended to draw a scaled bathroom plan and apply the desired pattern on it with the exact location of all borders of the decorative areas. This plan contributes to a more accurate calculation and, therefore, to a careful use of funds. The plan takes into account the places where electrical wiring is laid, the installation of sockets, lamps and hatches for servicing the laid wires. The necessary tools and materials are purchased:

When purchasing ceramic tiles, you need to pay attention to its strength class, degree of moisture absorption, as well as size

hammer with rubber heel;
container for the preparation of mixtures;
drill with stirrer attachment;
Bulgarian;
building level;
spatulas (notched, regular and rubber);
rubber sponge;
a bar for polishing tiles;
diamond crown for cutting holes;
plastic wedges;
plastic crosses;
roulette;
tile tongs;
sand;
cement;
grouting into seams;
floor and wall tiles;
tile adhesive;
moisture resistant primer;
needle roller;
component for self-leveling floor.

Before laying the tiles in the bathroom on the floor, preliminary preparation is done. To remove the remnants of the old coating, a chisel, a hammer, and, if necessary, a sledgehammer are used. The tile laying technology must also take into account safety precautions.

When working, be sure to protect your eyes with glasses.

If there is an old cement baseboard around the perimeter, then it must be removed. The floor is checked for slopes: a horizontal line is drawn along the perimeter of the wall, from which the distances to the floor surface are measured at the corners and in the center of each wall. If the differences exceed 2 cm, then horizontal alignment is required. After removing old coatings, the surface must be vacuumed and then primed. It is applied in two layers with a wide brush or cloth roller. For priming, “Ceresit” or similar primers are suitable. The preliminary leveling of the floor surface is done with a cement screed. Potholes, cracks and dents are repaired.

Requirements for materials

When using building materials in the bathroom, it is necessary to take into account the conditions in which they will be used. And in this case we are talking about high humidity, with frequent changes in its level. Also in this room there are changes in air temperature. And therefore, the composition must be such that it can withstand such influences. Accordingly, it must be resistant to humidity and temperature extremes.

At the same time, the mixture should perfectly and reliably hold the material on the surfaces, evenly distributed after application.

There are two types of adhesives:

Ready mix.This type is implemented ready-made, it can be used immediately. As a rule, the composition is based on polymers or exposing resin and other important elements. It is very convenient to use such glue, because you do not need to add anything to it, but you can apply it with a brush.

But there are advantages and disadvantages in this series - the high cost, which does not allow the use of such mixtures everywhere. In addition, such glue should be applied on a perfectly flat surface, for example, on drywall.

Dry mix. It is created on the basis of cement with the addition of, of course, sand, as well as plasticizers and other substances necessary for certain properties. This powder is diluted with water. The time of use is limited - a few hours. Therefore, it is impractical to immediately knead the entire available volume: it is unlikely that it will be possible to lay all the tiles during this time. Powder is packed in bags of different weights: 2, 2.5, 3, 5, 10 and 25 kg.

Among the manufacturers of adhesives for tiles are the following:

Summing up the problem of choosing an adhesive, you should remember that you need to select the composition based on your requirements (use in the bathroom), focusing on the information applied by the manufacturer to the package.

Tile - advantages and choices

In addition, the material has an attractive appearance and provides excellent waterproofing. it has many other virtues.

Advantages and disadvantages of tiles

Long service life.
Environmental friendliness.
Fire safety.
Moisture resistance.
High strength.
Resistant to wear and tear.
Easy maintenance.
A wide variety of textures and colors.
Resistant to aggressive chemical compounds.
Quite low cost.
Slip resistance.

With a large number of positive characteristics, the tile has its drawbacks:

The material has high thermal conductivity, so the tile floor is almost always cold.
The tile has a high degree of rigidity, as a result of which it is not suitable for decorating children's rooms.
During the delivery and installation of tiles, there may be defects (chips, cracks).

How to choose the right bathroom tile

Having decided on the color and pattern, it is necessary to pay attention to the characteristics and quality of the tile when buying. All information about the material is on its packaging

Floor tiles are indicated by a black foot on a white background.
The repetition of the same icon means a high level of material.
There is a hand on the packaging of the wall tile.
A foot against a shaded background indicates the increased durability of the tile.

Having chosen a tile, it is recommended to examine it carefully. The product should not have chips, cracks, streaks and bubbles.

To compensate for sometimes defective specimens and battle that come across, tiles should be purchased with a margin. To do this, you need to add ten percent to the square meters of coverage.

In order for the purchased material to be of the same shade, you need to pay attention to the article, the numbers and letters of which must match. Decorative finishing is purchased per piece

Decorative finishes are purchased per piece.

How to lay tiles in the bathroom with your own hands

Check the condition of the surface. Strength is checked by light tapping to determine the need for stripping. It is necessary to clean the wall if light blows harm the coating, and they immediately crumble. If the surface is large and crumbles completely, it is better to reinforce it with a partition or make a plasterboard structure.

Stripping. The degree of necessity for this stage is determined by the state of the surface, but in one volume or another it is carried out in any case. The walls must be cleaned of dirt, irregularities, protruding objects. Traces of mold and rust are especially carefully removed. Cracks need to be patched. If mold and mildew are found due to high humidity, treatment with anti-mold compounds is mandatory.It is desirable to carry out the processing several times, this contributes to a longer service life of the tile.

Alignment. An almost perfect and flat surface is required for the installation of tiles. Any irregularities, protrusions will disrupt the pattern and interfere with the layout. Drywall is suitable for leveling large surfaces. Small surface irregularities are plastered and filled with putty. This stage is next in preparation.

Primer and putty. This stage of processing helps to ensure good adhesion of the tile adhesive to the surface.

Mounting. Tiles are laid on the glue base. In the process of laying, the surface is checked for irregularities, if necessary, corrected with a rubber hammer. Dividing crosses are removed 12 hours after laying the tile.

Grout after drying.