How can you close up window slopes outside
From the outside, it is permissible to seal the structure with a variety of different materials. Suitable:
- plaster mixes;
- PVC panels;
- siding;
- metal;
- clinker tiles;
- drywall;
- sandwich panels;
- expanded polystyrene;
- wood;
- natural stone.
Slopes provide additional insulation for walls and windows.
Plaster
Plastering is the traditional, most economical, easy-to-use finishing method. Dry building mixtures are used for it, but the process takes longer than other options. Coloring is additionally performed as a finishing decoration.
Plastering is the most economical way to finish slopes.
Plastic
Plastic slopes are perfectly combined with metal-plastic windows, easy, quick to install, including with your own hands. The material is distinguished by high heat-insulating properties, resistance to "cruel" natural phenomena - it is not afraid of high humidity, does not deteriorate in severe frost. The product improves sound insulation, is combined with all types of insulation, does not require alignment before starting installation work. The use of foamed PVC panels additionally insulates the room, the material does not exfoliate when exposed to high temperatures, does not lose its shape from cold, moisture.
The use of plastic sheets allows finishing work as quickly and accurately as possible.
Siding
Siding is one of the budget, but not too durable options. The cellular structure of the material leads to the fact that the slopes gradually deform, turn yellow, swell. Since the siding is hollow, it will be weak to protect from the cold; an additional heat-insulating layer is required under it.
The material allows in a short time to create an aesthetic coating that has a certain level of thermal insulation and soundproofing.
Drywall
The main disadvantage of drywall is the ability to absorb moisture, therefore, when decorating external slopes with it, the surface is additionally putty and painted. The material is recommended for finishing windows overlooking glazed balconies, verandas, loggias.
It is quite suitable for sheathing external slopes in the event that the windows overlook a glazed loggia, balcony or terrace.
Sandwich panels
Such three-layer panels, consisting of two layers of plastic and a sheet of insulation (extruded polystyrene foam), are optimal for decorating the sidewalls of a window opening. Thanks to them, the opening gets something like a "thermal fur coat" with high sound insulation. Sandwich panels look like plastic ones, they do not need additional decor. Installation of such slopes requires strict adherence to the instructions, and it is better to purchase the parts ready-made.
They have low thermal conductivity and do not require additional finishing.
Styrofoam
Insulation with foam is a simple, cheap option. This material keeps heat well, it is low-flammable, lightweight, it is easy to cut it into any shape. For work, use a product with a thickness of two cm, high density. Polystyrene foam is also often used - it is much stronger than polystyrene in bending (about five times), has better sound insulation characteristics, and practically does not absorb water.
Foam-covered slopes will keep the house warm and protect from outside noise.
Metal
The option of finishing windows with metal slopes outside is one of the most popular.The metal here is covered with a polymer layer, perfectly performing the heat-insulating function, protects the walls from freezing, blowing even by the strongest wind. The cost of the product is high, but due to the coating with polymers, the structure does not rust, it serves as long as possible.
The choice of metal as a finishing material for external window slopes is a reliable, aesthetic, durable solution.
A natural stone
Making any window openings with natural stone is a laborious, expensive, but luxurious, strong, durable method.
It is important to take into account that stone elements create an additional load on the walls and foundation. It is also permissible to use an artificial stone.
Natural stone finishes provide a flawless, stylish and sophisticated appearance of slopes, unsurpassed durability and guaranteed strength.
Instructions on how to install external structures with your own hands
Now we will tell you step by step how to install metal braids on plastic or other windows, what needs to be done for this. After all the preparatory work and measurements, the process is divided into several stages:
If the slopes are cut independently, then all measurements made earlier are transferred to a sheet of metal, the contours are cut with special scissors.
Preparation of the opening for installation work:
Cut off excess foam with a painting knife.
Clean the opening from dust and dirt, treat it with an antiseptic to prevent the appearance of mold and mildew.
If necessary, seal all cracks with plaster (find out how to seal seams and cracks when installing slopes with plaster and in other ways).
Further, all seams are covered with a sealant.
The most crucial stage is the installation of the ebb and the corners. How to install and fix them:
The first step is to install the lower part - the ebb. It is leveled using a level gauge.
To prevent the metal from emitting a strong roar during rain, you should put a noise-insulating material under the part (noise-absorbing tape or a thin layer of polyurethane foam).
Important
If the polyurethane foam, which is applied to the lower part of the ebb and slightly to the base of the window frame, begins to lift the structure, it is necessary to evenly press down the ebb with something heavy along its entire length. After that, the part is screwed to the window frame with self-tapping screws.
The side slopes are attached next
It should be remembered that the upper and lower parts are inclined from the inner edge to the outer, so the edges of the part are cut in accordance with the angle of contact with the ebb and the corners of the opening.
At the same time, competent measurements and a neat cut will prevent the formation of cracks, and all the slopes will fall into place. After precise installation, the side parts are attached to the window frame with self-tapping screws with a press washer.
The last is the outer cladding element, which is also fastened with self-tapping screws.
For better thermal insulation, all gaps are filled with foam (learn how to work with foam when installing window slopes, what to look for when choosing foam in this article).
A careful examination of all joints and crevices, which are additionally filled with sealant (how and with what to seal the seams after installing the slopes?).
We offer you to watch a video on how to install external metal slopes with your own hands:
It is not difficult to install metal slopes with your own hands, the main thing is the accuracy in measurements and the accurate installation of this facade element, which, despite its relatively high cost, can last for decades.
Wet finishing
This cladding variation is the most traditional and economical option. The simplicity and simplicity of this method makes it possible to plaster and paint the slopes yourself. To finish the surface, it is necessary to prepare a dry mixture based on cement or gypsum. It should be noted that this type of work is distinguished by the duration of the manipulations performed.And also the "fur coat" needs to be painted periodically.
Before plastering external walls, they should be prepared. Preparation consists in cleaning from dirt, defects, excess foam. To secure the window, it is recommended to cover the structures with masking tape. Plastering the slopes should be done in stages:
- The first step is to install beacons at a distance of up to 5 cm from the window frame, fixing is done with nails.
- The thickness of the plaster layer should cover the window by 1 cm. The generally accepted thickening is 2 cm. The corners should be aligned with a square.
- After making sure that the opening is clear, it is possible to apply a primer. The primer is intended to improve the adhesion of the plaster to the substrate.
Puttying external slopes
- The cement-gypsum mortar should be applied over the beacons and smoothed with a spatula. Manipulations need to be done from the bottom up.
- After the first layer has dried, the beacons should be removed, and the locations should be covered and leveled.
- 1 plaster layer should not exceed 7 mm. It should be borne in mind that it is correct to apply a new layer of plaster only on the dried out previous layer. Also, don't forget about angular alignment.
- After the plaster has set, the wooden frame is removed, and the defects are covered and smoothed.
- With a wet rag, you can slightly moisten the coating and remove all errors with a float.
- After thorough drying, whitewash or paint is applied.
During the execution of work, the window must be closed. Since the penetration of the mixture into the fittings may impair functionality. An obvious negative property of the finishing method is not combining the cement mortar with the PVC profile. This creates a hole between the slope and the framing. Therefore, the resulting gaps should be sealed with a silicone-based sealant.
Tips & Tricks
Metal slopes are not the only choice, if desired, the window opening can be decorated with decorative stone, stucco, wooden panels
Installing slopes with your own hands is a commendable business, but long and ungrateful, if a person has not done anything like that. There are special firms dealing with minor construction work. These offices perform them very efficiently, and care about their reputation. These are not window suppliers who do everything as quickly as possible.
Plastic, metal, drywall, siding, standard plaster - this is proven and reliable, and the choice of material is up to the owner. It is based on personal preferences and financial capabilities of the owner, especially if events develop in a standard high-rise building.
If it comes to your own private house, lovingly erected for decades, you can come up with something original, like hand-made modeling, natural stone or carved wooden panels. The simplest, cheapest and most functional is chosen by people who do not care about someone else's opinion, or about their own sense of the beauty of the home in which life takes place. To console yourself with the fact that this is for a while is not worth it. Better to do it with high quality, durable and beautiful. Let it be a little longer and more expensive, but for a long time.
Choosing the necessary tool and accessories
Before starting work, the necessary accessories and tools are prepared. Since finishing the window slopes from the outside involves cutting the siding panels, you will need the appropriate tool (any of the proposed ones that are convenient for you):
Siding around a window with a slope less than 19 cm
- scissors for working on metal for cutting on top of the panel, with their help they make curly cutting of siding for finishing arched openings;
- a hacksaw with a fine tooth or an electric saw for working on wood or metal;
- knife-cutter - it runs a strip along the siding panel, and then the panel bends / unbends.
During the installation process, you will also need:
- screwdriver;
- hammer;
- a square with which the correct mounting angle will be marked on slopes and around windows;
- construction (1.5 m) and water levels;
- twine and chalk to break off the assembly lines.
As for fittings and components, the use of siding for window slopes will require the required number of screws and certain fittings. It is better when all the components and the siding itself are purchased from the same manufacturer - this guarantees the quality and durability of the structure. The fasteners must be original - this will make the cladding perfect. Since original components may seem too expensive to you, make a preliminary drawing - it will help you accurately carry out all the calculations.
Components and self-tapping screws are purchased according to a pre-calculated calculation - this will save you from problems with finding the right colors or sizes in the process. So, the number of fastening strips is calculated according to a certain algorithm:
- The window opening is measured along the perimeter. From the obtained value, the distance under the window is minus - if installation of window sills or ebb tides is planned here.
- 10% is added to this value - they take into account trimming and various inaccuracies in the process of work.
The main components required for framing windows with siding are:
- H- and J-profile;
- external and internal corners for decorating panel joints;
- ebb;
- chamfers;
- window and finish strips.
Set of accessories for siding installation
Basic rules of work
Do-it-yourself siding window decoration will be carried out slightly differently depending on the design of the window opening. As a rule, in our houses, windows are made according to several standards:
-
According to European standards, the slopes are less than 19 cm. Then the size of the window strip will be standard - up to 22 cm. It is very easy to attach with your own hands even by non-professionals - for this, a finishing profile is used, into which the strip is inserted. The finish profile can even be replaced with a J-profile and a chamfer, which will help reduce overall costs.
- According to Russian standards, slopes are more than 19 cm. For such windows, a J-profile is required, exposed near the frame. An external corner is mounted along the perimeter of the window, into which the siding panels are inserted.
- Windows without a slope - a platband must be installed, and then siding is attached to it.
- An arched window requires the use of a flexible J-profile. The usual one is also suitable, only it will need to be cut a little - in those places where the shape of the window bends.
It is recommended to use standard metal profiles for fastening siding around window openings.
The process of decorating a window opening begins with the installation of a starting strip. After that, sequential installation is carried out, and each row is carefully adjusted to the grooves already installed previously. If a standard size plank cannot be installed in the slope, the sheet is cut to the required dimensions.
Installation diagram of window profiles for siding
After the entire area of the slopes is sheathed, additional accessories are installed. However, these elements are completely optional - all of their functions are performed by standard siding.
In a special way, work is being carried out on the cladding of the arched window opening. A special elastic profile is required here. It is fixed on nails or screws along the perimeter of the window opening. Next, sheathing is carried out - be sure to observe the 15-cm step. Where the siding touches the supporting profile, the most durable fastening is provided - no expansion gaps are left in the arched windows.
If the emphasis is placed on window openings in the design of the facade, then the trim is performed with platbands 6.2 cm wide. If the design of the slopes implies "invisibility", then a narrow J-profile is preferred.However, you can independently choose the option that suits you as much as possible in terms of decor and price.
Types of external slopes for plastic windows
If you do not install external slopes right away, but postpone the process for an indefinite period, then soon you will have to repair or replace windows.
Finishing external slopes is an important and final stage of window installation and it is better to trust such a process only to highly qualified specialists. Then the installed windows will delight you with their appearance for many years.
Plastic
The characteristics of a plastic material are transferred to products made from it. This means that plastic slopes have all the qualities that are inherent in plastic itself. They are durable, wear-resistant, moisture-resistant, not afraid of temperature extremes.
Few of the citizens have the equipment at home that is used by "high-rise", so for the exterior decoration you will most likely have to hire a team of construction workers.
Installation of external slopes is carried out in stages:
Surface preparation and plastic plates:
- From the outside, the windows brush away all the dirt and dust. You should also cut off any excess foam protruding onto the frame. Places where there is no foam is not visible, on the contrary, it should be foam.
- Preparatory work also includes the preparation of the slopes themselves. Plastic external slopes are cut to size from standard wide plates.
- These plates can be found at a hardware store. They need to be cut to size, the end edges need to be slightly cleaned so that there are no "torn" parts.
- Cut the plastic slowly. The material can be brittle. If you cut it intensively, small chips can fly off from it, which can injure.
- Installation of the starting, U-shaped profile. It is screwed on the edges of the plastic frame on three sides. The end part of the slope will be embedded in this profile.
- Installation of the F-shaped profile around the window opening. It should be installed in such a way that the profile groove is a mirror image of the U-shaped profile. The second part of the slope will be embedded in it.
- Now the next step is the actual finishing of the external slopes of the windows, that is, the installation of a plastic plate. It can be installed directly in the window opening.
But, in order to provide additional insulation of the slope, a layer of insulation, for example, cotton wool, should be laid under the plastic.
Siding construction
How to make external slopes siding? In fact, siding is the same plastic, only it has a corrugated shape. It consists of a set of different types of profiles, finishing plates.
- Before installing the siding, all external surfaces of the building must be cratered.
- Then a siding ventilated facade and external slopes are attached to the crate. Siding plates have fastening holes in the upper part through which the material is fixed to the lathing.
- Each subsequent plate is superimposed on the previous one, hiding the fastening "seam". As a result, it turns out that there is no trace of fasteners anywhere on the wall.
- External finishing of the slopes of plastic windows with siding includes carrying out similar operations as when installing plastic slopes (the difference is in the form of the profiles themselves).
- Siding slopes have a special design, for their fixing various bends and ebb tides are used, allowing to "assemble a system" of slopes.
We make plaster
Exterior slope plastering is the simplest and most common type of finishing. For facade work, you need to use a facade putty. The order of work is as follows:
- First you need to cut off excess foam, remove debris. Then the surface should be primed in order to protect it from the formation of mold and mildew.
- Next, you should dilute the solution according to the instructions. Then the mixture is applied to the slope and leveled with a spatula.
- It is convenient to use two spatulas for work: one - for applying the solution to the wall, the second - for puttying and leveling the surface.
- Then the surface must be allowed time to dry.
- It should be painted. For work, you can use any facade paint.
Helpful advice!
If necessary, the paint can be tinted with dye.
External slopes made of metal
They are used for finishing windows in buildings, the facade of which is decorated with a metal profile, or rather metal profile sheets (in appearance, the finish resembles the surface of a container).
Slopes are made of polymer coated metal (colored), or galvanized sheets. The slopes are fixed to the surface with self-tapping screws or rivets. Colored coating and galvanizing protect the metal from corrosion, it does not need to be painted later.
Installation of metal slopes
Do-it-yourself installation of metal slopes on windows is a simple procedure, but it requires accuracy and care. To work, you need a minimum set of tools:
- Screwdriver with a set of bits.
- Roulette and square.
- Scissors for metal.
- Hammer.
- Construction knife (stationery option).
- Spatula (if additional preparation is required).
- Construction gun.
Tools required to install a metal slope
It must be borne in mind that work outside is carried out as soon as possible. It is impossible to wait a long period of time after the installation of window frames. Many people mistakenly believe that work can be postponed in the summer. But the result of such inaction is destroyed polyurethane foam and microscopic cracks, which have absorbed a lot of moisture.
Installation of external slopes must be carried out immediately after the installation of window structures
Stage one - measurements
Carrying out careful measurements is a guarantee that every detail will take its place like a glove
An important feature of such an event is that each site is measured individually. Some masters mistakenly advise measuring the upper part of the slopes at low tide.
This position leads to the fact that there are problems with the size of the elements, they can be more or less than the required indicator.
Works are performed using a tape measure. The dimensions are immediately transferred to the prepared notebook. This is especially true if several windows are being finished at once.
Stage two - preparation
Careful preparation is required for window openings with adjacent walls made of bricks or concrete slabs. Such structures are subject to numerous shedding and cracked. The following manipulations are performed:
- Polyurethane foam is cut off. It is removed flush with the window frame. This is done with a construction knife.
- The general condition of all surfaces is assessed. If required, the cracks and holes are covered with putty.
- The formation of voids between the elements to be installed and the base must not be allowed.
- The surface and seams are additionally treated with a sealant. It is best to soak concrete and brick surfaces with an antiseptic to avoid mold.
Allow some time for the applied materials to dry.
Before installing metal slopes, it is required to restore the integrity of the coating
Stage three - installation
The dimensions are transferred to metal strips that have the necessary folds. Each element is cut with metal scissors. The technology is as follows:
- They begin to trim the slopes at low tide. This part is cut to fit the window frame or less by one centimeter. The outer part is trimmed to the specified size of the opening, taking into account the wall allowance. The side parts are made with an allowance of one centimeter - they will need to be folded. The structure should be tilted away from the window.
- The low tide is set in place. It turns out that it fits well the surface, going into vertical sections with its side walls.It is screwed to the frame with self-tapping screws.
- Next, the side racks are installed. They are placed vertically, they should cover the curved segments of the ebb. They are attracted by screws.
- The upper part is inserted last. It is adjusted to fit the installed side strips and aligned to the outer corners. Fixed with self-tapping screws.
- Now you can apply the sealant, which should reliably cover all adjacent areas of the structure.
Installation of metal slopes begins with the installation of an ebb
It must be remembered that the sealing tape is pre-glued.
Thus, a beautiful and reliable cladding appears on the windows, which will play not only a decorative role, but also protect the surface from destruction.
Exterior metal slopes are becoming more widespread not only when decorating new plastic windows, but also in protecting wooden frames that have been in the house for a long time.
The variety of materials used in modern construction makes it difficult to choose among the possible options to install protective coatings on the outside of the windows.
The most common of these are grout or standard plastic panels. These are proven, low-cost ways to refine and secure window openings from the outside, to protect your home from moisture and dust.
What is it and what function does it perform?
Attention
Since the polyurethane foam used in the installation of the window cannot be used for a long time without protection - from the destruction of the environment, external slopes are made. From exposure to sunlight, polyurethane foam collapses over several months
When the foam has lost its properties, energy efficiency is lost, and the geometric position of the window in the window opening is violated, which will affect mechanical damage to the window control system
From exposure to sunlight, the polyurethane foam collapses over several months. When the foam has lost its properties, energy efficiency is lost, and the geometric position of the window in the window opening is violated, which will affect the mechanical damage of the window control system.
Without external slopes, the foam is not only exposed to sunlight, but also moisture. For a short period of time, the foam is not susceptible to moisture penetration. But since the sun's rays harm it, it loses its properties, and there will be no obstacles to moisture penetration. Moisture penetrates the pores of the polyurethane foam and is destructive for it.
Since the foam has a porous base, moisture will penetrate the room through it, albeit in small quantities. This will cause mold and mildew to form on the walls due to condensation.
Based on all this, let's say for sure, external slopes are necessary. The slopes will protect the walls from the effects of condensation, thanks to the slopes, the windows will be reliably protected from fogging. With slopes, heat and sound insulation increases, the service life of the mechanical part of the window system is extended. Also, with their help, windows are given a more neat appearance.
External slopes for PVC windows
In the last article, I talked about how to close up the gaps-seams between the plastic window and the wall of the house from the side of the street. This stage is passed, the foam is sealed and protected from burnout in the sun.
The next step is plastic outer slopes. They are beautiful and will also be an additional protection for the window mount, which is a rather unreliable and ventilated place in the entire structure.
Material:
- P-profiles (cost a penny) for panels (in my opinion, 8 mm)
- Plastic panels (used the surplus left over from the finishing of the loggia)
- Polyurethane foam
- Sealants
- Primer
Instruments:
- Jigsaw
- Foam gun (if the balloon was taken without a spout)
- Sealant gun
- Sober head and relatively straight arms
- Roulette / ruler / marker
Preparation
The slopes will cover the end part of the outer wall, therefore, all three sides (top, right, left) must be carefully measured in order to cut a trapezoid from the panels.
Note!
You need to start from the upper slope. He is the most fragile, due to the fact that he is forced to be on weight
The side ones will then hold it.
I got lazy, cut "anyhow", then straightened the edges on a grinder. Better to cut straight straight away, less waste, less dirt and less work. If you are in doubt about the accuracy of your measurements, you can use a cardboard box.
After cutting all three parts, I packed them into U-profiles, which I put on the panels and cut them very evenly ... with a grinder =). One touch - and a part of the profile is cut perfectly straight, without chips or burrs.
In general, the way for an amateur. Someone cuts with a hacksaw for metal, someone with a knife, someone with scissors. As I already said, the installation began from the upper part of the slope, along the rough side of which it went with foam.
Mounting
Next, with all the profiles on the panel, we firmly lean our slope against the previously primed and cleaned surface (plaster / slab / brick should not crumble). And so that it (the upper slope) does not fall, it must be thoroughly supported (used old skirting boards).
At this point, the P-profile was removed from the outer edge because of the foam that had come out (more precisely, I took it off myself and put it on later, after I cleaned off the foam).
Scotch tape must be prepared in advance. And just in case, transparent tape too. If the painting room does not adhere well to the wall, it can be reinforced with a transparent (packaging) one. The foam dries very quickly, but I left it on for a day, as the manufacturer of the polyurethane foam recommends.
It is necessary to press the upper slope (and the rest too) against the wall (opening) very tightly. With the side slopes, the same kotovasia: we pack in profiles, glue and press firmly. Much depends on the state of the opening. I came across a curve, a brick protrudes at the top, so it was more difficult to glue.
Note!
And let me remind you again: before installing external slopes on PVC windows, be sure to think about how you will fix the panels, and also prepare clean rags and acetone (cleaning liquid) in case of smeared foam.
The last flaws must be cleaned up immediately, until a yellow stain appears, which can be left on the plastic by polyurethane foam. And the gluing surface should be flat, without holes, crumbs and protrusions.
The panels used glossy, they look very nice. But for internal slopes I recommend matte (or sandwich). It is necessary to peel off the adhesive tape the next day so that the glue does not stick to the sun.
Sealing slopes
Sealing slopes
No matter how tightly the slope with the U-profile is pressed against the window frame, there are still cracks. As I read, people seal them up in a lot of ways: liquid plastic, sealants and even putty.
My cracks turned out to be narrow, and I missed with acrylic sealant. It is washable, for reliability it can be painted with a small brush.
In the last photo, you can see that the upper slope is covered (on top of the gap between the slab and the slope) with polyurethane sealant.
He definitely does not care about the frost, water and sun. It was not necessary to do it, but just in case.
Note
I did not use the F-profile due to the unevenness of the wall. I was afraid of water leakage under it and the cultivation of black mold.
Polyurethane and acrylic sealants, as well as liquid plastic and similar pastes must be applied very carefully: without proper experience, it is easy to spoil the work surface. So practice on something less valuable than new plastic windows first.
Advantages over other materials
There are several types of finishing materials, using which you can give the window opening a complete appearance. These are plaster, drywall, plastic and paint.But in terms of their technical characteristics, none of these materials can be compared with metal slopes. When deciding how to make slopes, it is necessary to study the characteristics of finishing materials.
The polymer layer of the steel slope protects the product from rust
When using plaster, you need to be prepared for the fact that the plaster layer will crack over time. If moisture gets into the gaps between the window frame and the plaster layer, it can cause mold.
Drywall as a finishing material for slopes is suitable only for interior work. Even gypsum plasterboard of the GVLV brand is not able to withstand the direct effects of atmospheric precipitation. In a short time, it will swell, lose its appearance and collapse.
The use of plastic panels for finishing external slopes leads to the fact that in the sun the plastic burns out and acquires an unpleasant yellowish tint. And with a sharp drop in air temperature, the plastic becomes brittle and may lose its integrity after a slight mechanical impact. Therefore, plastic is best used for finishing interior slopes, especially in the kitchen.
Metal slopes are not affected by weather conditions
The advantages of metal slopes are obvious, since the material for their manufacture is galvanized steel, which is coated with a protective polymer decorative layer at the production stage. This protects the products from corrosion and rust.
How to make the slopes on the windows outside. How to make external slopes with your own hands?
- Tools and materials
- How to finish external slopes using plaster?
- Features of using drywall
- Plastic finishing of window openings
The distance from the window to the wall surface is called the slope. In other words, this is the most ordinary window opening, which is external and internal.
It is very important that the finishing of the slopes is done accurately and competently. Under them they hide all the remaining flaws of the repair work when windows are installed or changed.
With the help of slopes, the installation seams receive reliable protection from moisture. Sound insulation and insulation of the room depends on them. A large number of companies engaged in the installation of windows approach the issue of finishing slopes superficially, and the cost of such a service is set high. Having the necessary tools at home, a little experience, you can install external slopes with your own hands.
External slopes provide moisture protection for the window.
The first method has been known for hundreds of years. This is a very laborious and time-consuming process. Such slopes have the shortest service life, they are short-lived. Over time, they begin to crack, they need constant repairs. Another negative side is cold, since they do not have insulation. As a result, condensation appears on the windows. Exterior slopes have only one advantage, they are low cost.
Tools for mounting slopes.
Plasterboard slopes are considered a more modern and not very dusty option. To make them, you need to have a lot of experience. The work takes a lot of time, since it will be necessary to prime and paint the surface. Such slopes can only be installed in dry rooms, drywall does not like moisture.
Modern plastic slopes are perhaps the best of all options. They are easy to maintain and made from the material used for the window profile. Therefore, such slopes, just like windows, react to temperature fluctuations. They never crack, no deformation occurs. It will take several hours to install such slopes, and they will serve for many decades.