Wood burning stoves for summer cottages: descriptions, recommendations and price

4 most popular corner ovens for summer cottages

These corner furnaces of the Meta group of companies are in the greatest demand among Russian consumers and are in no way inferior to European standards.

Amur

Amur. Furnace diagram

It is made of steel. The glass door withstands high temperatures perfectly and allows you to watch the fire. The stove can heat a room up to 90 sq. m.

Technical characteristics of Cupid:

• The combustion chamber with a volume of 73 liters provides power up to 10 kW.
• Small overall dimensions: height - 1 m, width - 0.8 m.
• The weight is only 157 kg, which allows for quick do-it-yourself installation. For the chimney device, a pipe with a diameter of 15 cm is needed.

The Amur fireplace stove will quickly warm up the house after a full load in 30 minutes. For heating within 8 hours, only 3 kg of firewood is needed. Instead of firewood, you can use brown coal briquettes.
Such fireplaces are inexpensive for giving. The manufacturer gives a 10-year warranty.

Pechora

The equipment is made of steel sheets with a thickness of 3 mm. It is manufactured in a new high-tech production facility. This extends the life of the oven.

Pechora characteristics:

• The power is 9 kW, which allows heating a house with an area of ​​more than 90 sq. M.
• Outside, the stove has ceramic inserts and is coated with a special heat-resistant paint.
• The exterior is perfect for almost any interior design.
• The drawer allows the accumulated ash to be removed without extinguishing the flame. You can heat the fireplace with wood and fuel briquettes.

Pechora has a high level of reliability. Installation can be done by hand using the diagram. The furnace has a long service life.

Yenisei

Yenisei is considered one of the most powerful furnaces (11 kW). The corner model is capable of heating a house with an area of ​​over 110 sq.m. In addition, you can cook food on it. There are two convenient cooking zones.

Yenisei 2. Dimensions of the fireplace stove

The stove is made of high quality materials using modern technologies. The design provides quick warming up of the room and a good view of the flame.

Yenisei design:

• Refractory fireclay serves as protection inside the combustion chamber.
• Additional protection of the metal body is achieved by coating the oven with a heat-resistant varnish.
• The heat-resistant cord creates a good seal on the door.
• Installed vitroceramic glass, which can withstand temperatures up to 740 degrees Celsius.

Overall dimensions: height - 114 cm, width - 84 cm, and depth - 51 cm. Even in spite of the presence of a cast-iron plate, the weight of the "Yenisei" model is 176 kg. It can be connected to a 15 cm chimney at the top or bottom of the system.

Bavaria

The Bavaria fireplace stove, equipped with a heat exchanger, is the best option for heating rooms with a small area from 60 sq.m. The rated heating power of this model is 6 kW. An excellent summer cottage option is made of high-quality steel with a thickness of 3 mm. Such equipment will last a long time.

Bavaria. Layout diagram

Features of the Bavaria oven:

• The kit includes a special heat exchanger that provides convenient connection to the home heating system.
• The glass cleaning system prevents the penetration of soot.
• The furnace efficiency is 78%, which is due to the design features and the presence of an economical mode. Everything reduces the amount of firewood required for the firebox.
• Differs in easy installation. It can be made according to the drawing with your own hands.

Which model to choose is up to you

The only thing you should pay attention to is the performance characteristics, the area of ​​the house

As a bonus to our article, we recommend that you read a live video review of one of the buyers of the Meta "Selenga" long-burning furnace.

Features of masonry and construction of brick stoves and fireplaces

Consider how to install a fireplace stove with your own hands to obtain a design that meets all the necessary individual requirements. Below will be presented a plan according to which this type of work is carried out.

First you need to choose the right place for the masonry. If you decide to build a fireplace stove for a brick house in a finished building, you need to choose it so that the structure itself, as well as the passage of the chimney, does not require dismantling the supporting floors and rafters and is as convenient as possible in terms of fire safety.

The first step is to equip a foundation for a wood-burning fireplace for a summer residence. It is made in a monolithic way with a burial of 80 - 100 cm in the ground. To protect the brickwork from moisture, waterproofing is performed using several layers of roofing material. Further, with the help of cement mortar, it is taken to the level of the clean floor, after which the location and boundaries of the future masonry are marked.

For the laying of stoves and fireplaces, clay or refractory bricks are used, pre-moistened with water. All bricks are sorted into solid, half and quaternary. Brick is laid on the mortar only after preliminary dry laying of each row. The thickness of the mixture in horizontal seams should be no more than 5 cm, in vertical - no more than 10 cm. For the most even laying, it is necessary to use special slats during work.

The first row is laid dry, thereby obtaining the contours of the future stove. The seams are adjusted to the desired size. Further, the bricks are gradually removed and installed on the ready-made mortar. Each subsequent row is installed to match the used oven fittings. The number of rows, as well as the additional equipment used, depends on the design of the oven you have chosen and its size.

After completion of the construction, with good quality of the brick used, it will be enough only to polish it, fix the seams and fixing points of the fittings. Otherwise, there are many ways to decorate stoves, ranging from ceramic tiles to artificial stone and tiles.

Step-by-step technology for arranging a fireplace and stove installation

When planning how to build a heating system for a country house or summer cottage, start by laying the foundation.

Foundation construction process

You will need rubble stone blocks, cement mortar and formwork boards. Work like this:

1. Create a trench at the depth of the main foundation. The width of the pit should be 10 cm more than the parameters of the stove.
2. Lay crushed stone at the bottom of the pit and tamp it.
3. Erect the formwork ending near the floor surface, waterproof it with bitumen, dry it.
4. Lay rubble blocks on the bottom, and fill the distance between them with medium fractional rubble.
5. Prepare a mortar based on 1 part cement, 3 parts sand and water. Pour the mixture into quarry and crushed stone.
6. Lay out the stone and fill it with mortar again. Continue until the structure is 7 cm from the floor.
7. Fill with the top layer, leave to dry for 1 week.

After hardening, arrange the waterproofing using a liquid bitumen composition.

Making mortar for laying bricks

Do-it-yourself oven is laid out on a clay-sand composition with high heat resistance. The mixture is made from clay with a high fat content, soaked in a wooden barrel. The solution is infused for 7 days, foam and debris are occasionally removed from it. After a week, the water is drained, and sand and porcelain stoneware glue are added to the clay. Cement is added in portions, trying to make the composition stick out from the trowel.

Classic scheme-ordering

Wondering how professionally you can make a functional fireplace out of an existing stove? Follow the classic masonry technology. Practicing builders are advised to make one heating unit from high-quality material without glossy shine and chips. Brick layout is done like this:

• Form the 1st row from substandard material. Level the stones as much as possible.
• The 2nd row includes the arrangement of the blower doors. Place asbestos or basalt material on the bricks, fix the door frame on the reinforcing rods, pulling them through the holes.
• 3rd row - continue fixing the doors. Pass the fired wire through the side holes of the frame and the masonry seams. Form a grate in the fireplace insert.
• 4th row - close the blower doors with bricks. Make a grate and start shaping the smoke channel. Bring it to its side, attach the latch. Smooth the solution with your hands until it is perfectly smooth.
• 5th row - install the firebox doors, securing them vertically with pins and wire. Line the space between the metal frame and the masonry with heat-resistant material.
• 6th row - put the fire door and work according to the scheme up to the 8th row.
• 9th row - close the door of the combustion compartment with a brick stone, work according to the scheme up to the 11th row.
• 11th row - install the hob. It is better to place bricks without mortar, mark the cooking place with a marker, and number the bars. Use a grinder to deepen the slab at the level of the main masonry.
• 12th row - close the doors of the fireplace insert. Lay a steel corner on top of the bricks. 13 - 15th rows are drawn up according to the scheme.
• 16-row - arrange the arch above the slab. You will need to place a corner and a strip of metal in front.
• 17th row - brickwork, next to which is a steel strip to support the arch.
• 18th row - lay the corner with bricks, install a metal sheet in place of the valves. The role of the support will be performed by a small piece of the corner.
• 19th row - make grooves of stone 5 mm more than the thickness of the main material of the valve. Check the quality of the chimney shutoff and secure the doors for cleaning.
• Row 20 - Secure the smaller steel strip above the latch. Continue laying according to the scheme.
• Row 21 - Place chimney support steel on top of the bricks.
• From the 22nd to the 26th row they work, narrowing the smoke exhaust ducts. At the end of the 26th row, a latch is made on the frame.
• From the 27th to the 28th row, they overlap the system, narrowing each level by ½ a brick block.
• After completing the work, dry the system and carry out a test - the first firebox.

A self-made chimney is located inside the building to improve draft. The vertical structure will ensure the quality of the removal of combustion products and prevent the formation of condensation. External chimneys are made of brick material or special sandwich pipes. A do-it-yourself fireplace, combined with a stove, is a guarantor of high-quality heating of the home. Only a responsible approach to construction, study of the scheme, purchase of high-quality materials will make the operation of the heating device comfortable.

Choosing a project for a summer residence

The choice of fireplace model depends on your personal preference and the size of the room. For spacious rooms, they build stoves that have a triangle cross section. Three-sided appliances are decorative, but they heat the room worse.

Photo 1. A corner country stove with a triangular fireplace will fit perfectly even in a small room.

For compact cottages, rectangular structures are suitable. If fuel economy is important to you, and beauty recedes into the background, take a closer look at long-burning devices. Are you accustomed to admiring the fire, cooking in the oven or on the hob? Then stop at the fireplace stoves.

Materials and tools

To build a hearth, a red smooth ceramic brick is needed for finishing and internal surfaces of the chimney. The combustion chamber itself is laid out with refractory bricks.

Doors, blowers, grates, chimney valves are made of cast iron. Doors and fittings are fastened with steel wire, corners and steel strips.

Brick in rows is placed on a special oven mixture or clay with sand. For insulation, use asbestos or heat-resistant mineral wool.

For formwork and foundation construction, they buy boards, metal fittings, sand, cement, gravel.

Having counted the number of bricks in the order, we determine the required volume of building material. When buying add 10% for the stock.

Important! The quality of the brick is checked by its sound. The right refractory material rings out, produces a clear tone

Burnt or under-baked gives a dull sound when tapped.

A set of construction tools is required:

• plumb line or level;
• trowels of several sizes;
• utensils for injecting mortar;
• Bulgarian.

What is such a fireplace stove for?

Corner fireplace stove will become an integral part part of a cozy country house or summer cottage
, a real assistant in the process of warming up the room and cooking. Do it yourself multifunctional decorative element
possible by attracting an experienced stove-maker who will consulting services
.

It will not come cheap, you can use the ordering schemes from the Internet, for a more illustrative example, you can find video instructions for installing long-term ovens burning for summer cottages
.

The subtleties of choosing and using a long burning fireplace stove:

• For a stove used in the country and at home, it can be useful afterburning function
  ... It will increase the burning time, the necessary sealing of the furnace can be achieved only at the production level, do it yourself it won't work
  ... Air is supplied to the firebox and afterburner through special openings. The ash pan and the blower are not used for air supply, as in their counterparts. brick aggregates
  .
• Factory made furnaces have (regulates traction
  ). With kindling and intensive burning, the gate is open, as soon as the fire dies down, it is covered, the burning time increases due to combustion of gases
  ... If the advertising brochure states that such a stove will delight you with heat for about 10 hours, then, most likely, the heat release time will be halved! You can find an interesting video about the gate device, then in the store it will be easier for you with the choice
  .
• If the dacha has many rooms, then for an even distribution of heat, you need to use additional air or.

For optimal heating of rooms, select a heater with a water circuit, such ovens have an expander
(the tank where water is poured) is either open or closed. Boiling is regulated either by connecting a pipe that collects steam from water or a special spiral
(for closed types).

Features of the design of the long-burning fireplace stove:

• The expander is used for large rooms, if it is on top of the smoke box
  ... They are equipped with an additional chimney, the combustion process must be adjusted manually by opening the pipes.
• If the tank is located around the firebox, then it is better to choose such a modification. for small country houses
  ... The heat is removed to heat the water.

When choosing a finished product, it will not be superfluous and additional functions
, for example, installing a temperature sensor, this will allow you to find out the combustion temperature and close the chimney in time. Also, metal structures are very moody and prefer only dry wood
... If you prefer to light the stove and enjoy the warmth without paying too much attention to it, then you should, nevertheless, stop at the brick wood-burning "fighting friend" handmade
.

They have requirements below
than metal competitors. The water circuit can also be do-it-yourself
, both when laying out a brick oven, and during its subsequent modification (but for this it will take more time and effort
).In any case, you can use the video review.

Popular wisdom says that you can look at a burning fire endlessly. It calms, warms, brings a feeling of coziness, creates a romantic atmosphere. Today, many owners of private houses and summer cottages have a desire to have a brick corner stove (fireplace) at home. In addition to aesthetic properties, the fireplace does not fully heat the room.

A corner fireplace takes up much less space and volume of a room than, for example, one attached to a wall. The construction of a corner stove can be carried out in an already finished house, as opposed to a built-in one. In addition, it looks very interesting and unusual. The fireplace has become a frequent attribute of the interior, one of the favorite elements for interior designers.

It is quite difficult to build a stove in a house on your own, but it is possible.

Functioning of the fireplace stove

A self-built fireplace based on a stove will combine the elements of two products. Open fireplace systems quickly warm up the room during the combustion of fuel materials. Furnaces have the ability to retain heat for a long time due to smoldering. The complex design increases the heat dissipation time and flares up quickly.
Thanks to the two fireboxes, the owners can light the stove or fireplace separately. Long flue gas ducts reduce hot gas evacuation. For this reason, fuel is saved, which is used as firewood, peat or coal.
The stove combined with the fireplace functions according to a special principle:

• fuel is loaded into a special chamber with a grate;
• air masses in the case of a stove enter through an opening at the bottom of the compartment and provide ignition of firewood or coal;
• fireplace compartment with a special convection chamber improves heat circulation throughout the rooms;
• combustion products are discharged through special channels;
• gates and dampers exclude premature heat transfer.

Two heating devices in one have increased efficiency, good pulling force due to which hypothermia is excluded.

Chimney construction and final stages

It is very important for corner stoves not to forget to leave a blower duct under the floor through which air will flow to start the fire. Remember that your rows must be perfectly straight, use a level to check

Make sure that the mortar is evenly applied to the bricks, it should be placed only in the middle, and the excess should be removed immediately so that the brick does not skew when laying out the next row.

After the furnace body is installed, it remains to make a chimney, which should consist of a steel pipe. The optimal height of the chimney is 5 m, and a valve is made at a height of about 2 m. To avoid a fire, thermal insulation should be made in the chimney. It is required to install a spark arrestor and a deflector on the chimney pipe, which will increase traction in the furnace and protect against strong gusts of wind. To prevent rain and other types of precipitation from entering the chimney, a small triangular hat is installed above it.

The final stage in the construction of the corner stove will be the external design - cladding and finishing. It is up to everyone to decide how the stove will look like: you can add a firebox, grates, gates and other decorative elements that will give your stove a more attractive appearance and make it not only a heating medium, but also an integral part of the overall interior.

The quality and functionality of the oven directly depends on the thoroughness and consistency of the instructions. If you do not have the appropriate skills in construction, then it is better to leave this business to professionals and not waste your time and nerves. Although, if you feel able to make the oven yourself, then you can rest assured that your work will certainly be appreciated by loved ones, and your soul will be filled with pride for the work done. Laying out the stove yourself, you put a piece of your soul into it, and on cold winter evenings it will be much more pleasant to feel the warmth from your brainchild, succumbing to a good mood and pleasant memories.

The corner fireplace stove for a summer residence is an excellent choice that allows you not only to quickly warm the air in the house, but also to cook food. In addition, such a stove differs from a conventional fireplace in a higher heat capacity, which allows you to maintain a comfortable atmosphere. Fireplace stoves can be made of either brick or metal. This article will help you make the right choice of a corner fireplace for a summer residence.

Homemade long burning metal stove

From the materials we need:

Homemade stove elements

• A round barrel that will serve as the body of the furnace. Do not use an old corroded barrel - this oven will not last long. The barrel must have thick walls to withstand higher temperatures.
• Steel pipe.
• Building level and marker.
• Hammer.
• Hacksaw for metal.
• Mallet.
• Channel.
• Axe.
• Steel sheet.
• Welding machine.

The process of work will be associated with a certain noise and dirt, so it is better to assemble such a stove on the street or in the garage.

1. Determine the location of the homemade oven.

   Cooking a body from a steel barrel

   Given its low external qualities, it is better to use a non-residential area for this. If the dacha is equipped with only one room, then the stove can be placed in the corner, creating a small decorative screen that covers the structure.

2. Take a metal barrel and, using a marker, mark the top with the markings along which you will need to cut off the top. Determine immediately how much tank volume is needed for laying firewood. The more wood you put in, the longer the stove will burn out.

   Remove the top and weld on the legs

3. Using a grinder, remove the top cover of the barrel.
4. Cut out the "legs" for the barrel from the pieces of reinforcement and weld them to the base. Make sure the barrel is perfectly horizontal.

5. Now we start making the chimney pipe. To do this, in the upper part of the barrel, mark for the pipe outlet and cut it out with a grinder.

   Preparing a hole for a branch pipe

6. Using sheet steel, cut a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm and weld to the circle.

7. We proceed to the manufacture of a clamping device, with the help of which the wood will slowly smolder. We use the cut off top of the barrel for the pressure lid.

   We weld the channel

   Only first you need to cut off the sidewall from it. You will get a steel circle. Using the disc nozzle on the grinder, grind this circle from all sides - it should smoothly enter the inside of the barrel.

8. We make a hole in the center of this circle, the diameter of which is equal to the diameter of the steel pipe.
9. Take the channel and mark on it for 4 parts, which, like blades, will be welded to the steel circle of the cover.
10. Cut the channel into 4 parts with a grinder and weld them at the same distance along the diameter of the steel circle.

11. Weld the steel pipe in the center of the pressure circle.

    Welding the pipe to the steel circle

12. We make a cover for the barrel from a sheet of steel, we will first make a marking in accordance with the required diameter. In the center of the cover we make a hole for the pressure device pipe.

    Making the oven lid

13. We make a door for loading fuel, which, unlike a standard stove, will be located in the upper part of the body. The door can be bought factory-made, or you can do it yourself by welding it to the barrel.

    Hole in a circle

14. Below the fuel loading hole, mark under one more door, through which you will systematically clean the stove from soot. Don't make it too big - it will be enough for your hand to pass.

15. After the oven is ready, you need to make a separate brick base for it, ensure the fire safety of the adjacent walls and install the structure.

    Oven base

    Given the low weight of the steel structure, there is no need to build a separate foundation for the furnace. It will be enough to lay out a brick base that is larger than the oven itself.

16. We connect a homemade stove to the chimney.

    Connecting the stove to the flue pipe

    One rule applies here - put the pipe sections on top of each other in the opposite direction of the smoke movement.

In principle, this can be considered a structure ready for use. But during the heating process, you can notice how much the walls of the stove are heated. Therefore, for ease of use and safety of life, it is better to equip a protective screen.

Brick protective shield

The protective shield can be folded out of bricks. For this, ordinary red brick is suitable, which should be laid out at a distance of 10-15 cm from the walls of the oven. The brick screen, in addition to protection, will increase heat transfer even after the stove burning stops.

If you plan to install a homemade long-burning stove in a separate boiler room by connecting a heating system to it, then there will be no point in installing a brick protective screen.

Long burning corner fireplace masonry

You can lay out corner stoves for dachas on wood on your own using the ordering scheme.

Each row is done as follows:

1. Bricks are laid without mortar, if required, they are adjusted to a certain size, cut.
2. Then the material is soaked for a short time in clean cool water and placed in the solution.
3. For the initial rows, which serve to level the foundation with the level of the floor surface, a cement mixture is made from cement and sand, observing a ratio of 1: 2.5-3. For all other rows, the mortar is kneaded from refractory clay.

Scheme-order of construction of a fireplace stove:

1. The first two rows are laid on the cement mixture using solid ceramic bricks. They form underneath designs.
2. In the 3rd row, they begin to install the doors. The clean-out door is mounted from the side of the fireplace insert, and from the side of the furnace insert - the ash-pan door. The door frame is fixed with metal rods or nails. To do this, holes are drilled in the brick of the lower row in accordance with the size of the pins.
3. In the 4th row, the doors are additionally fixed by threading a wire into the holes of the frame, which is then embedded in the masonry at a distance of at least 30 centimeters. A steel strip is placed on top of the ash pan and fireplace insert, which serves as a support for the bricks above the row located.
4. The 5th row should cover both doors, after which the construction of the smoke channel begins. To divide it, a steel strip is placed in the 6th row, which is a support for the partition.
5. Bricks from 7 to 9 rows form the hearth of the stove and the walls of the fireplace insert. The furnace door is fixed in the same way as for an ash pan. In the fireplace insert in the back, a fireplace tooth is made, which is a bevel of the wall at a certain angle.
6. In the 10th row, exit from the combustion chamber into the flue duct is performed. In the 11th row, a hob is mounted on top of the firebox. To this end, lay out a row dry, try on a slab and draw the outlines of its fit on the bricks. Then the bricks are numbered, disassembled and, with the help of a grinder, they create grooves in them corresponding to the thickness of the tiles, which are then laid on a heat-resistant mortar. In the same brick row, a steel strip is placed, which serves as a support for overlapping the fireplace compartment. They continue to lay out the fireplace tooth.
7. From the 12th row, they begin to create the overlap of the fireplace insert, using fireclay bricks. They are engaged in overlapping the part of the smoke channel coming from the firebox. On the side of the furnace of the unit and the hob, only a side wall is placed, which separates the stove from the wall of the building.
8. In the 13th row, a smoke channel valve is being mounted and the ceiling of the fireplace is still being built. At this point, the fireplace insert is narrowed to the maximum. This row is the final one in the chimney tooth.
9. Rows 14-18 have much in common, they form a flue duct, a wall of the hob and an extended section of the chimney smoke box. In addition, a mantel is made in the 16th and 17th rows.
10. In the 19th row, the space above the hob is covered with a sheet of metal, and in the 20th and 21st rows it is laid with bricks. From the side of the fireplace, they continue to create a smoke channel and a smoke collector.
11. At the level of the 22nd and 23rd rows, the smoke channel is expanded, and a clean door is mounted on the side of the fireplace insert.In the 24th row, above the place of expansion of the smoke channel, a spark cutter made of metal is placed. A strip of metal is placed over the back of the chimney smoke collector. The 25th and 26th rows are laid according to the scheme.
12. In the 27th row, a valve is placed above the fireplace chimney, in the 28th row, an additional cleaning door is placed, and in the 29th row, a sheet of steel is laid, covering the stove and supporting bricks from 30 to 32 rows.
13. Rows 33 and 34 block the chimney flue, after which only the common part of the chimney remains. In the 35th row, a decorative side is created along the edge of the structure. As a result, only the chimney remains by row 36 - it is laid out to the desired height.

Corner fireplaces-stoves erected for a country house must be dried within 7 days at normal temperature.

How to properly operate a homemade long-burning stove?

1. Remove the cover and take out the device that presses the wood.
2. Load fuel up to the set mark. The critical line is the chimney pipe. The firewood should not be higher than the level of its placement.

3. The better the wood is pressed and tamped, the greater the combustion process will take place in the firebox. Therefore, make sure in advance that the firewood is not large and, laying them in rows, lay chips between them.

   Pack the wood well and fill the space with sawdust

   The moisture content of the wood should not exceed 20%. Therefore, if you are taking firewood from a shed or cellar, provide an adequate supply of firewood, which will lie in a dry house for a while. A stylish firebox that you can build with your own hands will allow you to beautifully equip such a storage system.

4. Put kindling material on top of the firewood. It can be sawdust, paper, brushwood.

5. Light the wood and close the stove tightly with the lid.

   Furnace in operation

6. Only after you are sure that the wood is burning well, close the upper air damper.

As you can see, it is not so difficult to make your own long-burning furnace, which is highly efficient and fully autonomous. Of course, it is difficult to call it a home decoration, but for heating purposes with a minimal budget, it will show excellent results.

How solid fuel heating devices work

Any heating devices that run on wood or coal heat the house in several ways:

• direct heating;
• heat storage mode;
• heating the coolant (water or air).

Iron and cast iron stoves are modern stoves

Direct heating is the radiation of heat from the body of a stove, fireplace, or other device. The more the case is heated, the more heat the device will give to heat the house or room. As soon as the fire in the firebox goes out, the body of the device will begin to cool down, which will lead to a gradual decrease in the temperature in the house or room. To reduce temperature drops, a heat accumulator is needed - a device or structure that will take heat from a fire and give it away over time. Therefore, a long-burning fireplace stove for a summer residence must be equipped with a heat accumulator.

Rough will warm the house even after the end of the furnace

There is a general rule for all heat accumulators - the higher their mass and the smaller the area of ​​the radiated surface, the longer they will heat up. It is possible to reduce the uneven distribution of heat around the house with the help of a heating system and a coolant. However, even in such systems, it is necessary either to constantly throw up firewood or coal, or to use a heat accumulator. In hot water heating systems, a well-insulated sealed tank filled with hot water plays the role of a heat accumulator. In air heating systems, a massive brick structure plays the role of a heat accumulator, in which chimneys and air ducts run in parallel.

Air heater Buleryan for air heating

How firewood burns in the firebox

The combustion process is the same in any fireplaces and stoves - highly heated wood (400 degrees and more) emits pyrolysis gases, which burn in the firebox. Regardless of the method of heat transfer, there is a rule that is difficult, but can be circumvented. The burning time of firewood, with a normal amount of air supplied to them, is 1-1.5 hours, coal 1.5-3 hours. There are 4 ways to increase this time:

• decrease in the amount of supplied air;
• pyrolysis;
• top burning;
• automatic fuel addition.

Fire in the Russian stove

Reducing the amount of air not only lengthens the heating time, but also sharply reduces the efficiency of firewood combustion. The inner surface of the furnace and chimney is covered with a layer of soot, which reduces the efficiency of heat extraction, as a result of which the efficiency decreases. Pyrolysis increases the fuel burning time by 2–3 times, but this process takes place only in specially equipped furnaces. One of the conditions for pyrolysis is the absence of air flow into the furnace, due to which the wood decomposes into inorganic residues and combustible gas. This gas is burned in an adjacent chamber, which ensures that the furnace is heated to the required temperature.

This is how the pyrolysis gas burns in the boiler

Another effective way to increase the duration of the furnace is overhead burning. This principle is implemented in the Baltic boilers of Stropuva and their analogues. These boilers heat the house for up to 50 hours with one firewood. However, Stropuva is not a long-burning heating stove for a summer residence, but a boiler that first heats the water, then heats up the water heat accumulator and only then heats the house. Boilers of this type have enough disadvantages - they are very demanding on:

• wood moisture (maximum 15%);
• draft (the height of the chimney above the boiler is 4 meters or more);
• return coolant temperature (at least 56 degrees).

Boiler device Stropuva