How to determine the required expander volume?
The expander volume must exceed the required volume, which is the maximum amount of coolant entering the tank as a result of its heating.
First of all, the total volume of the coolant in the system is determined. Summing up the internal volume of pipes and cavities of all elements of the system (boiler, heating batteries, shut-off valves), we obtain the total volume. The amount of liquid in the pipelines can be calculated depending on the pipe size using the data in Table 1. The volume of the equipment cavities is indicated in the documentation (passport or manufacturer's catalog) for the product.
Table 1 - Determination of the volume of the coolant in 1 running meter of the pipeline.
Further, knowing the total amount of liquid, determine the required volume of the expander, using the data in Table 2. This value is selected depending on the pressure in the system. If the previously calculated value is between two tabular values, the required tank volume is determined by the larger of the values.
Table 2 - Determination of the required volume of the expansion tank.
The indicated data in Table 2 are valid if water is used as the heat carrier. For liquids with a coefficient of thermal expansion other than water, the tabulated value of the total volume is multiplied by a correction factor equal to the ratio of the density of the water to the liquid used.
Device and principle of operation
The membrane tank is a hermetically sealed metal container, divided into two compartments (chambers) by an elastic membrane. One of these chambers is a pneumatic chamber that contains gas or air under pressure. In the second chamber - a hydrochamber, the coolant is supplied.
The device operates as follows:
- the air pressure, which is in equilibrium, in the pneumatic chamber compensates for the fluid pressure in the heating system, the volume of the coolant and the hydrochamber is minimized;
- when the fluid pressure rises in the system, including during heating, the pressure also increases in the hydrochamber, where the excess coolant enters;
- due to the elasticity of the membrane, the volume of the pneumatic chamber decreases, which is accompanied by an increase in gas pressure;
- when the pressure in the pneumatic chamber increases, the increase in pressure in the hydraulic chamber is compensated, and the system returns to a state of equilibrium.
With a decrease in the pressure of the coolant in the system, the opposite actions take place. The gas (air) compressed in the pneumatic chamber expands and displaces the liquid from the hydraulic chamber into the system until the pressure difference is restored. The design makes it possible to exclude the possibility of contact between the coolant and air, reducing the likelihood of rust not only in the tank, but also in other parts of the heating system - the pipeline, the boiler. Sealed expansion tanks are equipped with safety valves to limit the maximum pressure in the heating system to an acceptable level. This also characterizes the tank as a protection device for the heating system.
How to check and pump up the expansion tank
Before connecting and filling the tank with coolant, it is necessary to check the pressure in the air chamber of the tank for compliance with the pressure in the heating network. To do this, a plastic plug is unscrewed or removed from the side of the air compartment, and under it is a conventional spool, familiar to you from car cameras. With a pressure gauge, you measure the pressure and adjust it to your system by pumping it up with a pump or lowering it by pressing the spool rod.
For example, the design pressure in the network after filling should be 1.3 bar. Then in the air compartment of the expansion tank it is necessary to make 1 bar, that is, 0.2 bar less.The trick is to have the rubber "bulb" of the tank pressed against the water side. Otherwise, when it cools, the compressed coolant will draw air through the automatic air vents, which is unacceptable. After setting, open the tap, fill the entire system with coolant and calmly start the boiler.
Note. Some manufacturers indicate the factory pressure in the air compartment on the packaging of their products. On it, you can choose a suitable tank and not bother with pumping.
Where is the expansion tank installed for heating
The installation location of the tank depends on the type of heating system and the purpose of the tank itself. The question is not what the expansion tank is for, but where it should compensate for the expansion of the water. That is, in the heating network of a private house there may be not one such vessel, but several. Here is a list of the functions that are assigned to the tanks installed in different places:
- compensation for thermal expansion of water in open heating systems;
- the same for closed-type systems;
- serve as a supplement to the standard expansion tank of a gas boiler;
- perceive the increasing volume of water in the hot water supply network.
An open reservoir, where the coolant is in contact with atmospheric air, is the hallmark of an open heating system. In this case, the installation of the expansion tank is carried out at the highest point of the heating network of a private house. Often, such systems are made gravity with increased pipe diameters and a large amount of coolant. The capacity of the tank should be adequate and should be about 10% of the total volume of water. Where, if not in the attic, to put such a dimensional tank.
For reference. In old one-story houses, you can often see small expansion tanks for an open heating system installed in the kitchen next to a floor-standing gas boiler. This is also correct, the container located under the ceiling is easier to control. True, it doesn't look very good in the interior. To put it mildly.
Alternative homemade tanks
Closed-type heating systems are distinguished by the fact that the membrane expansion tank for water can be placed anywhere. But still the best installation option is in the boiler room, next to the rest of the equipment. Another place where you sometimes have to install a closed expansion tank for heating is in the kitchen in a small house, since the heat source itself is located there.
About additional containers
Following new trends, many manufacturers complete their heat generators with built-in reservoirs, which perceive the volume of the coolant that increases with heating. These vessels cannot correspond to all existing heating schemes, sometimes their capacity is not enough. In order for the coolant pressure during heating to be within the normal range, in accordance with the calculation, an additional expansion tank for the wall-mounted boiler is installed.
For example, you converted an open gravity system into a closed one without replacing the lines. The new heating unit was matched to the heat load. Whatever the capacity in it, it will not be enough for such an amount of water. Another example is underfloor heating in all rooms of a two- or three-story building plus a radiator network. Here, the volume of the coolant will also come out impressive, a small tank will not cope with its increase and the pressure can increase greatly. That is why a second expansion tank for the boiler is needed.
Note. The second tank to help the boiler is also a closed membrane tank, located in the furnace room.
When the hot water supply of the house is provided by an indirect heating boiler, then the question also arises - what to do with the expanding water when heated. One option is to install a relief valve, as is done on electric water heaters. But the indirect heating boiler is much larger in size and through the valve it will lose too much hot water. Where is the best way to select and install an expansion tank for the boiler.
For reference. In buffer tanks (heat accumulators) of some manufacturers, it is also possible to connect a compensating tank. Moreover, experts recommend putting it even on large-capacity electric boilers, which is shown in the video:
What the system is made of and how does it work
In order for the heat to flow from the boiler room to the heating devices, an intermediary is used in the water system - a liquid. A heat carrier of this type moves through the pipeline and heats the rooms in the house, and all of them can have a different area. This factor makes such a heating system popular.
The movement of the coolant can be carried out in a natural way, the circulation is based on the principles of thermodynamics. Due to the different densities of cold and heated water and the slope of the pipeline, water moves through the system.
One of the important elements of the heating system is an open expansion tank, excess heated liquid enters here. It is this element that stabilizes the coolant pressure. The main condition is that the tank should be located at the highest point of the heating system.
Open heat supply operates according to the following scheme:
- The boiler heats up water and is supplied to heating devices in every room of the house.
- On the way back, excess liquid goes into the open-type expansion tank, its temperature drops, and the water returns back to the boiler.
One-pipe heating systems involve the use of one line for supply and return. Two-pipe systems have independent flow and return pipes. When deciding to independently mount a dependent heating system, it is better to choose a one-pipe scheme, it is simpler, more accessible and has an elementary design.
One-pipe heat supply consists of the following elements:
- Heating boiler.
- Batteries or radiators.
- Expansion tank.
- Pipes.
A simplified scheme implies the use of pipes with a cross section of 80-100 mm instead of radiators, but it should be borne in mind that such a system is less efficient in operation.
System complete set
Open-type heating in a private house requires the installation of a boiler that runs on solid fuel or fuel oil. The fact is that this type of heating is characterized by the periodic formation of air jams, which can cause an accident when using electric and gas boilers.
It is possible to calculate the power of a heating boiler according to the standard scheme, according to which 1 kW of energy plus 10-30% is required to heat 10 m2 of the area of the room, plus 10-30%, depending on the quality of thermal insulation.
You should not use polymers as a material for the expansion tank; steel is the best option in this case. The volume of the tank depends on the area of the heated room, for example, an expansion tank of 8-15 liters can be used in the heating system of a small building with a height of one floor.
As for the pipes for the heating system diagram with a circulation pump, in this case the following materials can be used:
- Steel. Such a pipeline is characterized by high thermal conductivity and high pressure resistance. However, the installation has some difficulties and requires the use of welding equipment.
- Polypropylene. Such a system is notable for easy installation, strength and tightness, it is able to withstand temperature fluctuations. Polypropylene pipes have been characterized by flawless operation for a quarter of a century.
- Metal-plastic.Pipes made of this material are resistant to corrosion, deposits do not form on their inner walls that impede the natural movement of the coolant. However, the cost of such a system is quite high, and its service life is only 15 years.
- Copper. A copper pipeline is considered the most expensive, but it perfectly tolerates high temperatures, up to +500 degrees, and is characterized by maximum heat transfer.
Types of expansion tanks
Now realizing the importance of such equipment, the reader has a new reasonable question: "What type of tank is better to buy for the home?" For a complete answer, you first need to study the options for products that exist on the modern domestic market. Let's get down to review without delay.
Such devices are becoming more common. They can be purchased in large retail chains, for example, "Leroy Merlin" or "My relatives"
Open type - massively popular, elementary simple
This modification is the most widespread and available not only in our country, but all over the world. It is so simple that anyone can make such a device at home. Any container that has an inlet for entering the coolant inside, as well as a cutout in the upper part for liquid evaporation, can serve as a structurally open expansion tank. Accordingly, with an increase in pressure, water enters the expander, partially evaporates, and when the temperature drops, it returns back to the system for further circulation.
Despite the simplicity, it is better to purchase a factory-made model - it is more reliable and easier to use.
Closed type (diaphragm tank) - ready for serious testing
If the previous option is more suitable for heating with natural water supply to the pipes, then the next, more advanced nominee is also suitable for complex tasks. The secret is that the design of the membrane expansion tank includes two chambers, different in their composition and properties. The first, external, is filled with either ordinary air or inert gas (depending on the price tag). The second, internal, is a hollow empty space, where the coolant gets over time. A membrane made of plastic rubber is located between the cavities. Initially, a certain pressure is created in a closed-type apparatus. When water enters the inner cavity of the tank, the membrane baffle changes its shape, maintaining the normal operation of the system. As it cools, the gas or air from the outer chamber expands and pushes the liquid out of the expansion tank. Thanks to such a device, a closed expansion tank can compensate for the load created by a circulation pump or other artificial blower.
Mounting a membrane expander requires a lot of skill and knowledge, and ideally the services of a specialized specialist
It is also important to note the fact that this type of device has two subspecies. The first, with a membrane in the form of a diaphragm (disc)
Has a more affordable cost, but in case of breakdowns, the product cannot be repaired
The first, with a membrane in the form of a diaphragm (disc). It has a more affordable cost, but in case of breakdowns, the product cannot be repaired.
Low plasticity values negatively affect the available usable internal volume of equipment
And the second, with a membrane in the shape of a "pear" (balloon). It features a simple system for replacing a worn partition and a large volume of the inner chamber.
This shape also allows you to experiment with different pressures to find the perfect fit.
Accumulator type - for the most prudent owners
This unusual invention has not yet gained wide popularity among the inhabitants of our country, but it is worthy of mention. The peculiarity and main function of this "miracle of technology" is the accumulation of the coolant in its body and its subsequent transfer at the required moment into the system. Accordingly, the battery expander does not struggle with excess pressure, it simply improves the heating efficiency in a house or apartment.
A high-tech device is capable of storing water of various temperatures, supplying it to the system according to predetermined "scenarios"
Useful Tips
It was already mentioned above that the volume of the expansion tank is equal to 10% of the volume of the entire coolant in the heating system of the house. Of course, this is a rough estimate. To accurately determine it, it is necessary to take into account a large number of various coefficients that are included in a complex formula. It will be difficult to make such a calculation on your own, if you are not an expert. Therefore, take the above ratio as a basis.
By the way, if the safety valve is triggered very often, be aware that you missed the volume. Most likely, you have incorrectly calculated the total volume of the coolant. In this case, do not rush to replace the installed expansion tank with a new one with a large volume. You can just cut another next to it so that it compensates for the missing liters.
When the question arises of how to install the expansion tank piping, there are only two items to consider:
- The coolant must enter it from the top point.
- And leave from the very bottom.
Expansion tanks of open and closed type
In this way, mixing of air with water inside the tank can be avoided.
Very often from the townsfolk the question is asked, why is the expansion tank boiling? There are two reasons:
- The diameter of the contour pipe is not correct. Usually, a reduced diameter leads to boiling, so experts advise using pipes of at least 32 mm. But take into account the fact of the correct installation of heating radiators. They should not break the pipe system, but crash into it.
- The absence of the slope of the contours, which we have already mentioned above. Therefore, you will have to redo the heating system or install a circulation pump in it.
A few words about the pump. It was already mentioned above that open-type heating and a circulation pump are not always compatible. If you increase the volume of the coolant, then a low-power pump can be cut into the circuit. And this will solve the problem. By the way, they install it on the return circuit near the boiler. How to increase the volume of the coolant? Option one - to increase the diameter of the distribution pipes. You can also build up sections of heating radiators. In general, everything will have to be calculated and thought out. Don't make hasty decisions.
Types of tanks
Compensation tanks for heating networks differ in shape, design, and internal size.
Open type equipment
They represent a rectangular or cylindrical container with an open top, where, if necessary, you can always add water. Most often, such tanks are made of sheet steel and are thermally insulated. They are installed at the highest level of natural circulation heating systems.
The design includes the following elements:
- containers of various sizes;
- inlet pipe for supplying the coolant;
- outlet pipe for water return;
- control pipe that prevents overflow.
The main disadvantages of open expansion tanks are their large size, tendency to corrosion, the need to add water and constant monitoring.
Closed apparatus and its functions
Suitable for heating networks, where the movement of the heating medium is provided by pumps. Outwardly, it looks like a closed oval or spherical container with a pipe for connecting to a heating network and a nipple on the back. A membrane is installed inside the tank, dividing the cavity into two chambers: one is filled with gas (air or nitrogen), the other is intended for liquid.
In the absence of heating of the circuit, the tank is empty; when the temperature rises, the excess coolant is directed into the tank, pressurizing the other chamber. When this parameter reaches the limit level, the valve is triggered and the excess gas is discharged. As it cools, the liquid is compressed and pushed back into the circuit. All processes take place automatically.
Photo 1. Expansion tank of closed type, volume 50 l, steel, without replaceable membrane, manufacturer - "Stout".
Closed devices are available in two designs.
With flanged replaceable diaphragm
The main features of this type of expansion device:
- Water does not come into contact with the walls of the device, remaining inside the membrane cavity - the risk of corrosion and contamination of the coolant is eliminated.
- Possibility of replacing the elastic chamber through a bolted flange.
- They have higher ultimate pressure ratings than non-replaceable diaphragm models.
- Horizontal and vertical design - it is convenient to place in boiler rooms of different configurations.
Stationary diaphragm
The inner space is divided in two by an elastic butyl diaphragm, which is rigidly attached to the walls of the chamber.
Initially, the entire cavity is occupied by gas, so the membrane is pressed against the walls. During heating, the liquid enters the tank, the gas is compressed, and the pressure rises.
The water is in direct contact with the inner surface, which creates a risk of corrosion. To prevent the destruction of the metal, a moisture-resistant coating is applied to the inside of the tank walls.
The main advantages of devices with a non-replaceable membrane are an affordable price and a variety of design options.
Attention! The main disadvantage is that if the diaphragm fails, the tank will have to be replaced with a new one. Closed expansion equipment is allowed to be installed close to the heating boiler - on the side of the pump inlet
Closed expansion equipment may be installed close to the heating boiler - on the side of the pump inlet.
Expansion tank installation
After making miscalculations, you can start installing the heating expansion tank
It is important to choose the right location on the general scheme. It directly depends on the type of system - gravitational or forced circulation
Despite the fact that the role of the expansion tank in heating will remain unchanged, incorrect installation can lead to malfunctions.
Open design
Installation diagram of an open expansion tank
The installation of an open-air expansion tank is carried out at the highest point of the system.
Some experts recommend installing it immediately after the accelerating vertical line. By adding water to the system through the expansion tank, the likelihood of a reverse stroke is reduced. Also, in this place of the circuit, the highest temperature of the coolant is usually and, accordingly, its expansion. You can also make a connection to the return pipe. But then the operation of the expansion tank in the heating system will be less efficient.
Before installing, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the general rules and tips:
- Minor horizontal and vertical deviations of the structure are allowed. But they should not exceed 2-3 °;
- Warming can be done with basalt wool. She is not afraid of humidity, and most importantly, high temperatures;
- In the event of a critical excess of pressure inside the heating expansion tank, part of the liquid can get through the top cover onto the floor of the attic. It is recommended to make an improved waterproofing of the floor in this place.
A scheduled inspection of the tank condition can be done 2 times a month with constant heating operation and always before the first start of the system.
Diaphragm tank
Diaphragm expansion tank installation diagram
Installation of a membrane expansion tank in heating systems is carried out only on the return pipe in front of the circulation pump.
A prerequisite is compliance with the temperature regime in the room. The air heating level should not be less than + 5 ° С. Installation should not be impeded by foreign objects. The same applies to the maintenance of the structure.
Correct installation of the expansion tank in the heating system consists in observing its level. The structure must stand strictly upright. Even a slight tilt can cause malfunctions. For the safety of servicing, an air valve should be installed on the air chamber to quickly reduce the pressure in it in the event of an emergency.
It must be remembered that the location of the expansion tank in the heating system should be not only technically correct, but also convenient for its maintenance.
The fundamental difference between the operation of the expansion tank in a closed-type heating system is the possibility of its quick dismantling. Therefore, it is recommended to install 2 shut-off valves during installation - one on the supply pipe to the heating system, and the other on the water chamber of the tank. By closing them, you can quickly dismantle the container to carry out its repair or install a new one.
The video material presents the design features of expansion tanks and their role in the operation of the heating system:
Calculation time - how to determine the required volume of the expansion tank
Having dealt with the classification and choosing the option most suitable for your purposes, you need to calculate the minimum allowable tank volume. For comfortable operation of heating, a capacity is sufficient, containing 10% of the volume of the coolant in the system. To calculate the amount of all water in pipes and radiators, use two variable methods:
- displacement measurement when the system is directly filled with water or other coolant;
- calculation of the capacity of all pipes and radiators located in the heating circuit.
For such purposes, you can use canisters or other containers, the volume of which is already known.
Use the table below to calculate the volume of pipelines:
| Internal pipe diameter, mm | Volume of water in 1 running meter, l |
| 14 | 0,1539 |
| 16 | 0,2011 |
| 18 | 0,2545 |
| 20 | 0,3142 |
| 22 | 0,3801 |
| 24 | 0,4524 |
| 28 | 0,6158 |
| 32 | 0,8042 |
| 36 | 1,0179 |
| 40 | 1,2566 |
| 50 | 1,9635 |
To calculate the volume of radiators, you can use the following averaged values:
| Radiator material | Volume of liquid in 1 section, l |
| Cast iron | 1,7 |
| Bimetallic alloy | 0,25 |
| Aluminum | 0,45 |
After doing all the necessary calculations, you can immediately find 10% of this value. Or use a special formula that will give a more accurate and objective result:
V = VL β / D
- VL - capacity of the heating system, l;
- β is the coefficient of expansion of the liquid;
- D is the efficiency of the expansion tank.
To calculate the last indicator in the formula, we make the following calculation:
D = (PV-PS) / (PV-1),
where PV is the maximum value of the operating pressure in the system, bar; PS - pressure in the tank without load, bar.
As a heating fluid, a special antifreeze can be used, which has its own coefficient of expansion
Features of the arrangement of open heating
Classic open heating equipment
The classic open-type heating system for a private house differs from a closed one in terms of pressure. It is equal to atmospheric. Therefore, for the arrangement of this type of heat supply, much less components and accurate calculations are required. But this does not mean that an open heating scheme can be drawn up unprofessionally.
For automatic stabilization of the coolant pressure in the pipes, an open expansion tank for open heating is provided in the system. It is the design of this component that distinguishes the open heat supply scheme from the closed one. The movement of the coolant can be carried out in two ways:
- Due to the thermal expansion of hot water. This requires an accelerating riser. According to this scheme, an open heating system with natural circulation is designed;
- Installation of pumping equipment. It allows you to increase the speed of movement of the coolant. A pump in an open heating system is required if the total length of the lines exceeds 25 m.
In addition, it is necessary to reduce the friction index of the water as it passes through the pipes. For this, the diameter of the latter must be at least 30 mm. Otherwise, the hydraulic resistance will increase, which will reduce the natural circulation.
The defining component in the circuit is the boiler for an open heating system
It is important not only to choose the right design and principle of operation of the device, but also to comply with all installation rules
How to do it yourself from plastic containers or stainless steel
The expansion tank can be made by yourself. For this, a tank of 10-12 liters is suitable (depending on the exact calculations of the volume of the coolant of the general system).
If you have a ready-made base, for example, a plastic container, you should check its capacity (with ordinary 3-liter cans), and then fix the missing elements.
Usually the tank is made of 2-4 mm thick stainless steel sheet.
Instruments:
- welding machine, welding electrodes;
- grinder with matching circles;
- sheet metal (stainless steel);
- branch pipes;
- various bolts, a set of fittings;
- rubber gaskets;
- brush, gloves, protective mask;
- Oil paint;
- thermal insulation materials;
- file for metal;
- roulette;
- tank diagram with all dimensions.
Metal sheet marking
First of all, you need to make the markings on the sheet metal. To do this, you can use a cutting sheet with paper parts, allowing you to use metal with the least waste. When joining two parts on a sheet, it is imperative to take into account the thickness of the grinder's circle, which can "eat" several millimeters.
Important! All work should be carried out carefully, followed by cleaning the edges.
Cutting blanks
The tank body consists of five or six rectangles (depending on the presence of a lid). If desired, you can divide the upper part of the cover into two parts as it is convenient, by welding one part to the base, and attaching the other to the curtains.
Welding a homemade device
Cut blanks must be placed at right angles and welded. The method of fastening can be different - gas is perfect for 2 mm steel sheets, and with 3-4 mm sheets it works well with electric welding.
In the bottom of the case, it is necessary to make a hole and weld a pipe there, through which the coolant will enter the tank. The branch pipe itself, respectively, is connected to the circuit of the general heating system.
Warming
An open heating structure is distinguished by the installation of an expansion tank at the highest point of the system. Usually, this is an unheated attic, where the temperature is often below freezing in winter. Under these conditions, the water in the tank can freeze, damaging the entire system. To avoid such a problem, the tank should be insulated with special materials, for example, basalt wool.
Such an insulating material is resistant to high temperatures, which is a prerequisite, since the water in the tank, at elevated degrees, boils.
Adding oil
In the construction of a homemade tank, in addition to the main pipe connecting the tank to the system, additional elements are welded:
- for feeding the system or adding a coolant (water, oil);
- for emergency drainage of excess coolant into the sewer.
Important! The drain connection must be located above the filling level of the tank in order to avoid overflow of liquid over the top. Through the hole in the lid, water from the tank evaporates and air can enter the system
This leads to overheating of the pipes and poor circulation of the coolant. To solve this problem, professionals recommend pouring a little oil into the tank. It will tighten the surface of the coolant with a thin film, thus creating a protective layer against air penetration
Through the hole in the lid, water from the tank evaporates and air can enter the system. This leads to overheating of the pipes and poor circulation of the coolant. To solve this problem, professionals recommend pouring a little oil into the tank. It will tighten the surface of the coolant with a thin film, thus creating a protective layer against air penetration.
How to put the tank correctly
When installing an open tank in the attic, a number of rules should be observed:
- The container should stand directly above the boiler and be connected to it with a vertical flow pipe.
- The body of the product must be carefully insulated so as not to waste heat by heating the cold attic.
- It is imperative to organize an emergency overflow so that in an emergency situation hot water does not flood the ceiling.
- To simplify the level control and make-up, it is recommended to bring 2 additional pipelines into the boiler room, as shown in the tank connection diagram:
Note. It is customary to direct the emergency overflow pipe to the sewer network. But some homeowners, in order to simplify the task, take it out through the roof directly onto the street.
The installation of a membrane-type expansion tank also has its own characteristics. Considering how this product works, it can be placed vertically or horizontally in any position. Small containers are usually fastened to the wall with a clamp or suspended from a special bracket, large ones - just put on the floor. There is one point here: the performance of the membrane tank does not depend on its orientation in space, which cannot be said about the service life.
A closed vessel will last longer if it is mounted vertically with the air chamber facing up. The fact is that sooner or later the membrane will exhaust its resource, which is why cracks will appear in it. The internal structure of the tank is such that with a horizontal arrangement, air from its half will quickly penetrate through the cracks into the coolant, and that will take its place. We'll have to urgently put a new expansion tank for heating. The same result will quickly appear when the container is hanging upside down on the bracket.
In a normal vertical position, air from the upper part will not rush to penetrate through the cracks into the lower one, just as the coolant will reluctantly go up. Until the size and number of cracks increases to a critical level, the heating will work properly. This process sometimes takes a long time, you will not notice the problem immediately. But no matter how you place the vessel, you should adhere to the following recommendations:
- The product must be positioned in the boiler room in such a way that it is convenient to service it. Do not install floor standing units close to a wall.
- When wall-mounting the heating expansion vessel, do not place it too high so that you do not have to reach the shut-off valve or air spool when servicing.
- The load from the supply pipelines and shut-off valves should not fall on the tank branch pipe. Fasten the pipes together with the valves separately, this will make it easier to replace the tank in the event of a breakdown.
- It is not allowed to lay the supply pipe across the floor through the passage or hang it at head height.
How can you beautifully place equipment in a boiler room?