Brief description of the flower
Azalea is a dwarf evergreen plant that came to us from Asia, but today it is no less common in South America and Western Europe. The indoor subspecies of botany flower belongs to the genus of rhododendrons. Its name azalea, that is, translated from the ancient Greek "dry", received in honor of its appearance, since it is a squat dry shrub.
In our latitudes, the plant settled only at the end of the 19th century and at first it was grown exclusively in greenhouses or arboretums. In total, there are about 360 species of azalea in nature, but, as a rule, only two species are suitable and most popular for breeding at home - this is Indian azalea and Japanese azalea.
Indian is a small evergreen shrub, not exceeding 60 cm in height, with dark green leaves that are covered with red hairs. Flowering occurs in winter, the flowers of this variety are only 2-3 cm in diameter. Japanese azalea is practically no different from its indoor counterpart - it is also a small evergreen bush with small shiny leaves. The only difference is the smaller flower size and the ability to grow the variety in the garden. Azalea blooms very luxuriantly and violently, usually at the age of 4 or 5 years. The flowers are rich, bright pink in color, but white, purple, red and even two-colored flowers are also often found.
Did you know? In addition to its attractive appearance, azalea is famous for its healing properties, in particular, the elimination of various inflammatory eye diseases and even hangovers. Perfectly relieves fatigue — it is enough just to sit down in front of the plant, and in a matter of minutes you will feel a surge of strength and vigor that will remain with you for a long time.
Leaves are dark green, relatively small in size and can be either double or regular even
When choosing an azalea for growing at home, pay attention to the number of unopened buds: if there are more than half of them, it is likely that such a flower is adapted to quick adaptation and will delight the owners with incredibly spectacular and fabulous flowering for much longer. Do not be too lazy to also check the plant for diseases and pests - just carefully examine the bush, and if you find dry or completely withered leaves, it means that the azalea is sick or simply underwent inappropriate care.
Transplant and reproduction of azaleas
When replanting the azalea after flowering, do not submerge the root collar in the soil, otherwise the plant will die. Also try not to damage the roots of the azalea: do not touch its earthen ball unless absolutely necessary. How to transplant an azalea and not harm it at the same time? If the pot has become cramped for the plant, just transfer it along with the lump into a new container, the diameter of which should be 2 cm larger than the previous container. What kind of soil azaleas need, you already know.
At home, azalea reproduces mainly by cuttings. However, this is a long and troublesome business, so it is much easier to buy a plant in a store. But if you still want to start breeding, cut with a sharp blade or knife from young, not yet lignified shoots of the plant 10-15 cm lengths. The lower cut should go under the bud. The leaves from the bottom of the cuttings must be removed. Cuttings are planted in moist peat to a depth of 5 cm, the substrate around them is squeezed well and each cutting is covered with a glass jar. You can plant the cuttings in a mini greenhouse and cover them with a transparent lid. The rooting procedure should take place at a temperature of 25 ºC. Two to three times a day, the coating is removed to ventilate and, if necessary, moisten the substrate.Rooting lasts about six months, after which the seedlings with developed roots are planted in a permanent container and conditions are created for them, as for adult plants.
You can try to root the azalea layers. Make a small incision on the lateral shoot under the bud (there must be one pair of leaves above the bud), place the cuttings on the soil in a pot, fix in this position and sprinkle with soil
When the cuttings are rooted, very carefully, so as not to damage the mother plant, they are separated and transplanted into a pot.
Types and varieties of azaleas
In room culture, numerous varieties and varieties of these types of azaleas are grown:
- Simps 'rhododendron, or Simps' azalea, or Indian azalea - a hybrid plant with a rich history;
- blunt rhododendron, or Japanese azalea.
Both of these species are dwarf shrubs with a height of 30 to 50 cm.The varieties and hybrids of azaleas are divided by flowering time into early flowering ones, the flowering of which lasts from late October to early January, mid-flowering (from January to March) and late flowering (from January to early May ). The most popular of the early flowering azaleas are:
- Adventglokhen - a variety with bell-shaped simple or slightly double crimson-red flowers up to 6 cm in diameter;
- Dresden 1936 - brilliant medium-double flowers of a salmon pink hue;
- Doberlug - double dark pink flowers up to 7 cm in diameter with a white border of irregular outlines;
- Weiss Shame - wide-funnel-shaped double flowers with a diameter of 6.5 cm, white with a cream or pale pink tint;
- Erie - semi-double carmine-pink flowers with a diameter of about 7 cm with a white border of irregular shape;
- Orange Bowin - semi-double crimson-red flowers with a diameter of 5 to 6.5 cm;
- Ensett Dagmar - shiny double flowers up to 7 cm in diameter, intense pink;
- Helmut Vogel is a very early azalea variety with double purple-red flowers 7 cm in diameter.
Mid-flowering azaleas are represented by such popular varieties:
- Albert-Elizabeth - white or pale pink double flowers up to 8.5 cm in diameter with a red border around the edges of the petals;
- Apollo - simple and slightly double, slightly wavy at the edges of the petals, brick-red flowers with a diameter of 7 cm;
- Abner - semi-double, bright salmon-karma flowers up to 8 cm in diameter with an intense carmine tint in the folds of the petals;
- Florida - simple dark red flowers up to 6 cm in diameter;
- Leopold Astrid - double flowers of pale pink color with a diameter of 7 cm with a red border and corrugated petals along the edges;
- Max Chamet - double, with strongly corrugated petals, salmon flowers up to 6.5 cm in diameter with a white border around the edge.
Of the azaleas that bloom later than other varieties, the following are popular:
- Niobe - double white flowers up to 7.5 cm in diameter with a greenish pharynx and red specks along the petals;
- Kontsinna is a vigorous variety with simple funnel-shaped light lilac flowers up to 7 cm in diameter with bright crimson specks;
- Ernest Thiers - semi-double crimson-pink flowers with a diameter of about 8 cm;
- Coelestinum - simple intense carmine flowers with a diameter of 6 cm;
- Hexe is a vigorous variety with double flowers of a bright wine shade;
- Professor Walters - simple funnel-shaped flowers of a bright light salmon shade up to 7.5 cm in diameter with almost white edges, the three upper petals are decorated with crimson-red specks in the throat;
- Shakuntala - white double flowers up to 7.5 cm in diameter with green specks in the throat.
Azalea varieties can be divided by color. For example, varieties with white flowers, in addition to those that we have already described, include Mary, Heidi, Akvarel, Snezhinka, Shneg, Rosa Belton. Azaleas with red flowers: Simon, Holland, Knut Even, Eclair, Ilona, Frau Elsa Kargeri.Raspberry flowers are in the Cosmos variety, lilac - in the Flamenco, Violacea multiflora, Ostalette and Temperance varieties, and pink - in the azaleas Terra Nova, Pink Pearl, Oslo, Scarlet Flower, Rays, St. Valentine and Rosalie.
Azalea at home (question - answer) Azalea: how to care
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Azalea has many varieties, which differ in the area of growth, appearance, color and shape of the buds. In ornamental gardening, the Indian and Japanese varieties are distinguished, as well as some hybrids.
Indian
Indian azalea can be distinguished by the following features:
- the need to limit the roots and pruning the crown;
- height 0.4-0.5 m;
- large size of flowers;
- variegated color of petals with specks and edging.
Japanese
Characteristic features of the Japanese azalea:
- height up to 0.5 m;
- dense crown shape;
- small buds of mauve color;
- unpretentiousness.
Deciduous
Deciduous azalea is most commonly used in landscaping and is planted outdoors. Typical features of the bushes:
- height 0.5-1 m;
- large flowers are collected in large inflorescences and have a rich palette;
- glossy small leaves change color in autumn and partially fall off;
- slow growth in the early years;
- high resistance to diseases and pests;
- unpretentious care;
- the ability to survive light frost.
As contained in the store
The plant is supplied for sale from special nurseries. To ensure the preservation of the presentation, indoor plants are planted in a special nutritious substrate, which allows them to bloom for a long time and maintain their decorative effect. In this case, the root system remains without development, since the flower, under the influence of special synthetic preparations, plunges into sleep.
With prolonged maintenance in such conditions, the bush weakens, it can become infected with fungal infections. For this reason, the death of an azalea is often possible immediately after acquisition.
It is necessary to pay attention to the state of the soil mixture. The roots should not dry out or be in a swampy environment
Azalea flower: how to care for it at home
After transplanting, the flower is severely weakened. For strengthening, treatment with growth stimulants is carried out. Plants need to be carefully cared for. Under favorable conditions, it should recover successfully.
First of all, you need to find a comfortable place where the azaleas will be cozy. It should be warm and light. Direct sunlight is not allowed. Also, the flower should be located away from heating appliances. It must be remembered that these plants do not like drafts. The most suitable windows should face west or north.
Illumination
If there is a lack of light, it is recommended to use artificial lighting. The first time after transplanting, the bushes need to be slightly shaded. Without full protection, the pots can be left on after 2 weeks. In warm and dry weather, the azalea is allowed to be taken out onto the balcony, but a little shade must be provided.
The correct lighting regime is important for growing indoor azaleas.
Humidity
Plants love moist air. If the room is very dry, then expanded clay is added to the pallet, where water should be regularly poured. To prevent the leaves from drying out, they are sprayed.
Temperature regime
During the dormant period (from about October to December), the temperature in the room where the azalea is located should be 6-8 ° C. These conditions are ideal for bud formation and subsequent flowering. When the first buds appear, it is recommended to increase the temperature to 17 ° C.
The minimum and maximum temperature must be maintained. In winter, a minimum temperature of about 5 ° C should be maintained, in summer this figure should not exceed 18 ° C.
Humidity
Regular watering should be observed: at least 2 or 3 times a week. In dry air, the bushes need to be watered more often.The water must be sold through a pallet. Then you need to wait 15 minutes, then drain the excess
It is important to ensure that the ground is completely saturated with moisture.
Important! When the earthy clod begins to dry, the likelihood of plant death increases.
Flowering bushes are sprayed with a spray bottle
Irrigation water should be at room temperature. The liquid must be settled within two days. Lemon juice is added in small amounts to acidify the soil.
Fertilization
Do not fertilize immediately after transplanting. Failure to observe this rule can lead to burning of the weakened roots. The first time it is possible to fertilize after transplantation is only one to two months after the azalea has been placed in its permanent place.
At the end of the recovery period, nutrient mixtures should be applied once a week. This condition must be met in the spring and summer. In the fall in winter, fertilize is needed less often, about once for 14 days. In winter, feeding is completely stopped.
Special formulations are sold to fertilize plants. During the period of bud formation, superphosphate is used for fertilization.
Caring for an azalea after purchase is a rather complicated process. Without certain knowledge, you can harm plants. But if everything is done correctly, the acclimatization process goes well. The root system will suffer minimal losses. After two months, the bushes are completely restored and soon they can bloom and grow luxuriantly.
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Planting and caring for Azalea at home
After decorating your home with room azalea, try to provide it with the most comfortable conditions and appropriate care for long and abundant flowering (Figure 2).
Azalea after purchase
Azalea is demanding both on the quality of lighting and soil, as well as on the level of moisture and watering. When choosing a place for a flower in an apartment, avoid direct sunlight on the flowerpot. Give preference to partial shade or diffused sunlight.
Since purchased flowers are most often grown in greenhouse conditions, it is recommended that during the first time a flower stays in an apartment, try to create familiar conditions for it:
- do not transplant immediately;
- organize high humidity;
- use additional means of increasing immunity (once every 2 weeks drugs Zircon, Epin and the like).
Priming
A nutritious substrate for growing a culture can be purchased at a specialized store, or you can prepare it yourself from rotted needles, moss and sand in a ratio (2: 1: 1). The main thing is that the soil is acidic (4-4.5 ph).
Watering
Based on the fact that azalea is a rather capricious plant, you should especially carefully follow the watering rules so as not to ruin it.
The basic rules for watering azaleas include:
- Watering should be regular, especially during the flowering period.
- The best way to water is to moisten the soil through the bottom of a pot set on a pan of water.
- It is recommended to use settled or melt water.
- Adding a few drops of lemon juice to your irrigation water (twice a month) will make the flowering more lush.
Observing these simple rules, you can provide the flower with an optimal level of soil moisture without an excess of moisture, and the culture will delight you with abundant and long flowering.
Top dressing
For feeding indoor varieties, purchased mineral fertilizers are used, which are applied once a week in spring and summer and once a month in winter. In addition, during the period of bud formation and flowering of the plant, it is recommended to support it with the help of such preparations as "Uniflor-Bud" or "Kemira - Lux".
Pruning
The pruning procedure is mandatory and regular (once a year). It involves the removal of all last year's shoots, as well as weak, unnecessary and closely spaced branches.Experienced growers advise pinching and pruning the stems to form the bush itself and ensure lush flowering. So, starting from May, it is necessary to regularly cut and pinch fresh shoots. This procedure stimulates the appearance of buds at the tips of the shoots. In this case, it is not at all necessary to cut off all the shoots, but only those that are excessively stretched.
Pruning an azalea results in a crown that looks like a small tree or bush. In the first case, the strongest and smoothest branch is left, and all other shoots are cut off. As the trunk grows, it can bend, therefore it is recommended to tie it to a support and constantly rotate it around its axis. As soon as the trunk reaches the desired size, its top is pinched, after which the plant begins to branch. In the future, it is necessary to pinch the lateral shoots in time to form a crown shaped like a ball.
When forming a bush, the cutting and tops of the side branches are pinched at a distance of 10-12 cm from the soil surface. For uniform growth of shoots, it is recommended to periodically rotate the bush around its axis. You should also know that formative pruning of early varieties is carried out no later than March-April, and late ones - in May-June.
Azalea care at home
Understanding how to care for an azalea, the main attention is paid to regular watering, fertilizing, ensuring daylight hours and thermal conditions. Experienced breeders assure that once having understood all the intricacies of care, it will not be difficult for a beginner to grow luxurious flowers.
Light and temperature
How to care for an azalea flower:
- A light-loving flower does not tolerate direct sunlight. The pot is placed on the windowsill by the window on the east or west side. On the northern side, the flowers will be small, dull - here they provide illumination with phytolamps. The south side is too light, because the window is hung with a thin canvas, blinds.
- The optimum temperature in summer is up to +20 C. If it is hotter, then the plant is sprayed, shaded. In spring and autumn, you need warmth up to +18 C. During the budding period, the temperature is maintained no more than + 10-12 C.
Watering and humidity
Before caring for an azalea at home, take care of the presence of a humidifier. It is required during winter when central heating is on.
Watering rules:
- regularity during the flowering period 2-3 times a week;
- do not allow the soil to dry out;
- 2 hours after watering, the remaining liquid is removed from the pan;
- during the rest period, the soil is moistened every 10-14 days;
- use only settled or melted warm water;
- to increase the peduncles, add a few drops of lemon juice - mix with water.
Spraying is carried out only in summer, when the bulk of the mass is growing and the buds are released. After the formation of peduncles, spraying is replaced by installing pots on wet expanded clay - water is poured into a pallet with drainage, a pot is placed on pebbles or expanded clay.
Soil selection
They begin caring for room azalea with soil selection. The plant prefers acidic soil with a pH of 3.5-5. The best option is to buy a ready-made soil mixture at a grower store. But if the transplant is urgent, they make the soil on their own. Take in equal parts coniferous soil, leafy soil, coarse sand, peat. All are mixed, roasted in the oven at +200 C for at least 20 minutes.
The mixture is then moistened and filled into a pot. At the bottom of the container, drainage from expanded clay granules with a layer thickness of up to 20 mm must be laid. The planting container is chosen slightly larger than the size of the plant root. Until the root system has mastered the entire volume of the pot, the flower will not sprout and flower.
Pinching and pruning azaleas
Post-flowering azalea care involves pruning and pinching. These procedures are needed to prepare the plant for the future growing season.
The procedure is carried out as follows:
- All dead inflorescences are removed. They are not cut off, but cut off with sterile scissors (pruning shears).
- The ends of the shoots are pinched. Only new shoots are processed.
- Old branches, shoots with a direction inside the bush are pruned. The first ones are removed by a third of the length, the second ones completely, leaving only a stump of no more than 0.5 cm.
Fertilizers and feeding
Mineral fertilizers with chlorine have a detrimental effect on the health of the flower, therefore they are not bought. The best choice is special mineral mixtures for azaleas such as Forte, Garden of Miracles. The regularity of the introduction of mineral compositions:
- in summer and spring at least once every 7 days;
- in winter, no more than 1 time in 4 weeks.
While the plant is blooming, it is watered with mixtures containing phosphorus, potassium - this will increase the number of buds, the flowering period. The best mixtures are considered Kemari-lux, Uniflor-bud.
When can a rhododendron be transplanted?
Azalea is a very finicky beauty, therefore, beginner growers quite often face a certain number of problems regarding care and growing in general. The main rule of a healthy existence is regular transplantation. There are certain rules and secrets here. Consider the fact that azalea reacts sharply to a violation of the microflora of the existence of the root system.
The ideal transplant option is considered not long after its acquisition. If the azalea is in budding or flowering, then the transplant should be postponed, its reaction will scare you, it will drop all flowers and buds. If it so happened that the state of the soil in the pot alerted you (it began to grow moldy, a salt deposit, an unpleasant odor appeared), then you need to react as soon as possible and transplant it. In this case, all flowers and buds should be cut off.
Attention! Subsequent transplants are performed regularly. Young - every year, adults - every 2-3 years
Spring is the most favorable period for the renewal of the soil composition. In winter and during flowering, replanting is not recommended.
For details on when it is better to transplant an azalea and how to do it, read our material.
After the purchase
In order for your beauty to delight you with lush flowering and radiate health and beauty, it must be carefully examined after purchase. Manufacturers and salespeople go to many tricks to attract customers. They use various tricks for active flowering and an attractive appearance - after all, this is exactly what customers are biting!
The plant is treated with artificial preparations that promote exuberant but short flowering. A complex of chemical components is added to the soil composition, which introduce the plant into a kind of "trance" flowering. The duration of which lasts up to 3 months, in appearance the flower looks healthy and attractive, but this is only at first glance
After this time, the flower begins to "wither", so it is very important not to postpone with a transplant after the purchase, so as not to harm the plant
A distinctive feature of azalea is that its root system resides in a kind of microflora, which is undesirable to disturb.
How to transplant azalea after purchase, we wrote in more detail here.
Diseases of the room azalea
Basically, various diseases and parasites affect the azalea with improper care, for example, excessive watering or direct sunlight, as well as if the room is very hot or the soil is incorrectly selected.
The flower is affected by the following diseases:
Leaves droop, turn yellow and fall off if the bush lacks moisture or if it stands in the sun. To eliminate the problem, follow the rules for watering and spraying, and also rearrange the pot in a suitable place.
Rust and gray rot appear when the air temperature is not observed
It is important not only to adjust the temperature and humidity, but also to trim off any damaged leaves.
Withering and falling off of flowers occurs if poor-quality water is used for irrigation. It is better to water with settled or boiled water, into which special fertilizers have been introduced.
With excessive soil moisture, the azalea is affected by phyoftora, which causes death.
How to transplant correctly: step by step instructions
Preparing inventory
To transplant an azalea, we need:
- a new pot (2 - 3 cm larger in size than the previous one);
- gloves;
- sharp knife;
- scoop;
- watering can.
All metal objects must be disinfected - wiped with alcohol or ignited over a burning burner.
The soil
A strictly special one is required, you can buy a ready-made composition "For Azaleas" or compose the necessary substrate yourself. It should include:
- peat;
- sod land;
- leaf humus;
- sand;
- chopped and steamed bark;
- charcoal;
- perlite (or vermiculite).
Thorough mixing should result in a very loose, light yet nutritious substrate ideal for Azalea.
Removing from the pot and placing in Kornevin's solution
We proceed to the transplanting process itself:
First, we water it.
After 15 minutes, carefully using a scoop, we remove our plant from the old pot and carefully examine the root system. If any damage is found, we cut off these parts.
Carefully cut the roots by about 1 cm from the bottom and from the sides in the same way.
We immerse the Azalea in a suitable container with water, where Kornevin has been added
This must be done before you start mixing the substrate, during this time the roots will just have time to be saturated with water and Kornevin will be able to show his stimulating effect.
Placing a plant in a new substrate
We take a new pot, fill the drainage with a layer of about 3 cm, then put a little pine bark, a little new substrate.
We place the Azalea bush in the pot directly in the center (after squeezing the root system slightly).
Next, gradually pour in the substrate, while it needs to be tamped a little, we try not to deepen the root collar from above, this is important!
Now we water with the same solution (with Kornevin) in which the Azalea was soaked.
At the end of all procedures, the flower must be sprayed with warm water, preferably with the addition of Epin.
REFERENCE! If the Azalea bush is very large, then it can be just propagated, divided into 2 or 3 separate plants
This is the best moment, everything is done simply - the root system is cut into the necessary parts with a knife and the green parts of the bush are carefully separated.
Care errors and their elimination
You can find out about common problems and methods of solving them, the reasons for negative phenomena from the table:
Problem | Causes | Solution |
Leaves and buds fall | Exceeding the temperature indicators in the room, the air humidity is below normal. | Increase humidity, lower temperature. |
The foliage turns yellow, the flowering period is shorter than usual, the azalea does not bloom | The plant is watered with hard water containing an excess of mineral salts, the soil is not suitable for azaleas, dry, too warm air | The plant is transplanted into a suitable soil, watered with settled and acidified water in sufficient quantities, sprayed |
Dry spots on foliage | The problem indicates sunburn | Isolate the flower from the scorching rays: put a protective screen, lower the blinds |
A cobweb has appeared on the foliage, the clusters of thin threads resemble dirty white cotton wool | Surely this is a spider mite | The plant is washed with soapy water, then with water under the shower, if necessary (severe infection of the plant and soil), insecticides are used. |
Buds fall off, change color, foliage curls | The disease (fusarium) develops. The problem arises against the background of high air temperature in the room. | Treat with fungicide, lower temperature, increase humidity |
How to equip an azalea at home so that the plant can more easily endure the adaptation period?
Buying a healthy flower is a challenge. A plant brought from a store must go through a difficult adaptation period. Wherein:
- There is no need to unpack the shrub from the store packaging, especially in winter. The flower adapts more easily to room conditions if it will stand for a couple of hours in the package. Winter and fall are undesirable seasons for buying azaleas.
- The place of home growth of azaleas should be sufficiently lit, while the flower is relieved of direct sunlight.
- The comfortable air temperature for keeping the bush should not exceed +18 ℃.
- Azalea loves moist air, which is controlled by spraying and decorative humidifiers (indoor fountain, pallet with wet expanded clay).
Note! In order to prevent root decay, the pot is placed with the plant on a pallet with expanded clay so that the expanded clay does not touch the pot bottom
Placing a flower pot on a pallet with expanded clay
Common mistakes when caring for flowers
They are always associated with impaired care:
- The buds and leaves are shriveled. The room is very hot, there is not enough fresh air, little moisture.
- Leaves turn yellow, fall off without identifying parasites. Poorly chosen soil.
- No flowers or sparse peduncles. Low acidity of the soil.
- Flowers with a dull shade, few rosettes, they are small. Lack of light.
- The plant goes only to the leaf part, there are no flowers, the plate of sheets is of a dull shade. Little heat. Flowers need warmth and light rays, but without excess.
- Forgot about the pruning and did it at the wrong time. This is the biggest mistake. Pruning is done not during flowering, but after it. If the beginner missed the period, the bush is left so until next year.
- Frequent transplant. The plant will not give flowers, will go to the leaf and root parts.
Do not forget that the azalea is turned from time to time, and with an excess of heat, the pot is transferred to the shade.
Azalea crown formation
Flower buds of indoor azaleas form at the tops of the shoots in late summer.
In order for the plant to bloom beautifully, it is important to cut it off in time so that as many tops as possible form on it. And do not be late with this pruning, otherwise the flower buds on them will not have time to form, and the flowering will be weak
The purpose of this formation is to get a plant with a beautiful voluminous crown and evenly laid buds. There are two main types of crown for azaleas: - in the form of a small tree or bush.
To form a tree, you need to choose the most even and strong branch near a small azalea bush and grow a trunk from it, cut off all other shoots. To keep the trunk as straight as possible, tie it to a support and rotate it constantly around its axis.
Once the trunk is the size you want, pin on the top. Further, the tree will begin to branch. Then you need to periodically turn the plant, pinch the side branches in time and you will get a crown shaped like a ball.
Pruning should be carried out for early varieties no later than March - April, for late varieties - in May - June. In general, annual pruning boils down to the fact that all the shoots of the previous year are shortened and excess, weak or very closely spaced branches are completely removed.
To form a bush, pinch the stalk at a distance of 10-12 cm from the ground, pinch the tops of the side branches and turn the bush so that the branches grow evenly.
After flowering
In order for a beautiful plant to continue to delight with beautiful lush flowers, it is necessary to take proper care of it at the end of the flowering period. An important point is the timely transplantation of the shrub into a new pot, first you need to remove faded flowers, young shoots, dry leaves and branches. Only soil intended for rhododendrons is used.
The reason for the transplant is an overgrown root system or decay of the substrate.
The transplantation procedure should be done to a young plant once a year, an adult - 3 times. The pot should be loose, but shallow, as the azalea is a surface plant. It is not recommended to loosen the soil so as not to damage the roots.
Reproduction takes place by cuttings. Cuttings are harvested either in spring (March-April) or in summer (July-August). In both cases, the plant must have been pinched in the past year.
Cuttings are harvested only from healthy plants and no more than once a year. For this, an undercut is made under the lower bud of a semi-lignified shoot 7-10 cm long. The lower leaves are cut off completely, the upper ones are cut in half. Tie the cut cuttings into a bunch and put in a solution of heteroauxin or root with a lower cut. Plant after 6 hours in a container with prepared soil.
At room temperature, after 2 months, the cuttings will give roots. When using a special heating, this will happen in 20-25 days.
Once the cuttings are rooted, they should be transplanted into larger pots with coniferous soil and pinched after 2 months. This procedure is necessary to form a bush. It is better to remove the first buds, they interfere with the development of the young azalea. Pinching and pruning must be done in a timely manner. Pruning is done immediately after flowering, when you need to cut off wildly overgrown shoots and form a crown so that it does not become too spreading. Pinching helps to stimulate flowering.
How to properly transplant azalea indoors
Many people are interested in how to properly transplant an azalea at home. To do this, you need to prepare the correct pot and soil.
Selection and preparation of soil
Azalea needs soil with high acidity parameters
Therefore, it is important to find the right substrate for the plant. It should be loose enough and allow air to flow well to the root system.
To maintain the desired parameters, the plant must be periodically watered with a citric acid solution.
It is best to do it yourself. To do this, you need to take the following ingredients in a 2: 1: 1: 1: 1 ratio:
- special substrate for azaleas;
- small tree bark;
- fresh or dry sphagnum moss;
- fine sand;
- charcoal and vermiculite.
You can also mix coniferous soil, peat and sand in a 2: 1: 1 ratio. No less effective will be a composition based on pine needles, high peat, sand and leafy earth. They are mixed in a ratio of 2: 3: 1: 1.
The prepared substrate must be watered with a special agent - "Fitosporin" and its analogues. You can also process the mixture in the oven or steam it over boiling water.
Important! Untreated soil can be a source of pests or fungi that will infest your crop. Therefore, the substrate must be disinfected.
Do-it-yourself azalea soil
Pot selection
The choice of a pot for an azalea is of great importance. It should not be very large in order for the roots to feel as comfortable as possible. It is best to choose a container 2 cm larger than the previous one. This will help the root system to settle down faster and minimize the risk of soil flooding.
It is desirable that the pot has low edges and is wide enough. The root system of the plant is characterized by horizontal development, therefore it requires optimal conditions.
The pot material can be anything. Plastic or ceramics are great. However, natural capacity is still more preferable. There should be drainage holes at the bottom to remove excess moisture.
Renewal root pruning
Carrying out sanitary pruning has a good effect on the state of the culture. To begin with, a flower with a lump of soil must be removed from the pot. It must be inspected for external damage and dead fragments removed.
You should not try to separate a dense lump of earth with your hands. This can cause root damage. Before pruning, they must be soaked in a warm solution of "Zircon". Then you can do the refreshing pruning. To do this, the roots on each side should be cut by 1-1.5 cm.
Roots need to be cut a little before transplanting.
Splitting an azalea
By dividing the bush, the plant you like is propagated.Also, the procedure can be carried out due to the impressive size of the bush. How to plant an azalea at home?
To do this, you need to carefully remove the flower from the pot, examine the roots and, if necessary, cut off diseased or dry fragments. The earthen lump must be cut into several fragments.
Important! Each fragment must have at least 1 shoot. Each plant needs an individual pot
Planting in another pot
The step-by-step process of planting a plant looks like this:
- A 3 cm thick drainage layer is poured onto the bottom of the container. It should consist of small stones.
- On top you need to put chips, sand or pine bark. The thickness of this layer should be 2 cm.
- Then sprinkle the layer with "Trichodermin", which helps to avoid the development of fungi and rot.
- Pour soil on top and distribute evenly over the container.
- Remove the azalea from the dish with the growth stimulant solution, squeeze out a lump of earth a little and let the liquid drain.
- Place in the center of the prepared soil.
- Pour fresh soil around the azalea. In this case, the root collar of the culture must not be affected.
- Gently add soil on the sides and compact it slightly.
- Slightly water the soil with the solution in which the roots were soaked.
Important! After transplanting, it is forbidden to water the bush abundantly. The root system dries more slowly than the earth, therefore there is a risk of root rot