We disassemble the shower cubicle: useful tips from a professional

We assemble a shower cabin with our own hands

Assembly of the shower cabin

Now we will try to make the assembly of the shower cabin with our own hands. The kit includes instructions for assembling the shower stall.

Everything is described there. But there are manufacturers who provide little information.

Therefore, we give tips for installing a shower stall:

• find a spacious place where you can assemble a shower stall;
• the shower tray is installed first;
• adjust the pallet horizontally using a level, twisting the legs;
• use a sealant when installing;
• after installing the shower tray, install the side walls;
• side walls are attached at the back with bolts (two or more);
• after installing the side walls, install the shower panel;
• the shower panel is attached to the side walls with self-tapping screws;
• then the frame is placed on a pallet;
• we fix the back walls to the walls of the bathroom with a sealant;
• after that, the roof is placed;
• the roof is fixed with screws or bolts;
• then we install the doors.

There are showers with the function of Turkish, Finnish baths and tropical showers. In such shower cabins there is a steam generator and a fan.

The steam generator provides the sauna with the required temperature. When the temperature rises above the required one, the steam generator turns off.

Thus, the overheating protection of the cab is activated. Some steam generators have the function of removing limescale deposits from the water.

Some cabins turn off the steam generator when there is not enough water. The fan serves to evenly distribute steam in the shower stall. And also to remove this steam from the cabin.

It is better to entrust the electrical part of the installation to a qualified electrician. Connect your FM / CD player at any convenient location.

Test and then connect on site. It should be mentioned that a separate electrical wiring is needed for the shower cabin, as well as for the air conditioner and for the water heater. This can only be entrusted to a professional. Thus, the electrical part of the shower stall is connected.

We examined the device and installation of the shower cabin. Move on.

Cab Dismantling Instructions

First, let's figure out what elements the shower room consists of:

• Side strips and door;
• Pallet and frame.

Consider how to disassemble the shower stall yourself.

Doors

According to the design, the doors are hung on rollers that are inserted into the guide. In order to remove them, loosen the screw on the upper roller, since it is it that adjusts the height of the door landing, and by tightening this element, the roller is fixed in the guide.

Further, we also take out the roller from the lower guide, and the door will be fixed only on the upper moving element. Lift it up and take it off. The door is heavy enough, so it's best to ask a friend for help.

Panels

Let's see how they are attached to the frame. Fasteners are made with special elements. On one side, it is attached to the body panel, and on the other, it is pressed by the central post.

Having loosened all fasteners, carefully press the glass into the cabin. This process can be complicated, due to the fact that the slots on the screw head will be torn off, and it will become impossible to unscrew it, but in order to do this, the stand is shifted to the side, the panel is released from one side

During the operation of the structure, gaskets - seals stick to the metal, so they are cut out using a knife.

Frame

The screws with which it is attached to the wall are unscrewed. Using a knife, cut off the silicone. The frame is removed with a panel (made of glass) and laid on the floor.The design of the shower stall assumes that the slats located on the side consist of two parts. One is fixed to the wall, and the other is the frame. The guides are dismantled and the screws located under them are unscrewed. After that, the following details are obtained:

• Lower and upper arcs;
• Guides (strips) - 2 pcs;
• Central rack;
• Frame bar - 2 pcs.

Pallet

In the event that it is on legs, then it is quite simple to dismantle it. But if it is located in the screed, then it will be more difficult to do. They also take into account the fact that the place around the pallet is most often decorated with ceramic tiles or mosaics and therefore this work is trusted by specialists.

But if they decide to complete the work without calling professionals, then they tear off the protective tape around the entire perimeter of the pallet and remove the silicone, then tear off the pallet from the frame.

To release it from the screed, you will need a bump stop. After completing this work, remove the remains of silicone and glue.

Let's take a look at how to disassemble the showerhead yourself. I would like to note that this process is easy, since you need to unscrew the bolts and clean it from limescale. But you can clean it without disassembling. To do this, bring the water in a saucepan to a boil, add ½ teaspoon of citric acid to it and dip the nozzle into it and keep it there for several minutes.

As you can see from the article, dismantling the shower is not such a difficult matter, the main thing is to follow the instructions and then there will be no difficulties. But if you do not dare to do this work yourself, then call specialists.

Do-it-yourself shower cabin: we solve the issue with the pallet and side walls

In fact, this type of shower stall does not need a tray - the water is simply poured onto the bathroom floor and removed from it through the so-called drain. It is for this reason that the very first thing that needs to be done in the bathroom, where the installation of such a shower stall is supposed to be, is a high-quality waterproofing of the floor. Especially this moment concerns the residents of apartments - water cannot be given a single chance to penetrate the floor below. In addition, it is also necessary to prevent the penetration of moisture into the walls adjacent to the shower room - they also need to be waterproofed with high quality at least to a height of 2m.

The floor is completely cleaned of the old screed, then waterproofing is done from scratch, it is laid in at least three layers. It will be enough to cover the walls with bituminous mastic. Next, a shower cabin drain is mounted and a screed is poured over the entire area of ​​the bathroom.

How to make a shower with your own hands photo

Now let's talk about the pallet. For its manufacture, brick is used and it is created along with the adjacent walls. In fact, making a shower cabin with your own hands involves the construction of a small fence so that water does not spread over the entire floor of the bath. In this regard, it is much more convenient to make such a cabin in the corner of the room - for this you need to lay out only one wall and a small parapet 10 cm high. For these purposes, it is better to use a brick - this approach to business will cost less than the construction of drywall structures. And most importantly, you will get a fairly strong and reliable design.

How to make a pallet for a shower cabin with your own hands photo

And again we return to the waterproofing of the floor. Only now you need to create it directly inside the shower cabin. The principle is the same - first bituminous mastic, then two, and preferably three layers of modern rubberized material. You can, of course, do the old-fashioned way, completely plastering the inner surfaces of the resulting room with a cement-sand mortar with the addition of liquid glass. If you decide to make waterproofing from modern materials, then on top of it (on the floor) you will need to pour a screed with a thickness of at least 50mm. Do not forget about the spreading of the floor - you will need to direct the water flowing down it straight into the ladder.

DIY shower cabin: pallet

Dismantling and disconnecting from communications with your own hands

To dismantle without the help of a wizard, follow these steps:

At the end of the first stage of dismantling, disconnect the small elements of the shower stall located inside the device: control panel, mirrors, shelves, towel holder, mixer and other accessories. Before starting disassembly, make sure that the initial work has been completed in full.

Photo 1. This model of a shower cabin has a lot of electrical elements, so the first thing to do when dismantling is to turn off the power.

Disassembly instructions: how to remove the apron, doors and control panel

The next step is to dismantle the cabin itself, the sequence of actions:

Treatment of joints and joints with a special tool to remove the sealant. It is also cleaned with a clerical knife, but traces of silicone will not be completely removed. It is more convenient to use a special tool that gently and effectively removes unnecessary seams.

Important! The agent is active for 15 minutes. If during this period the work is not completed, it must be applied again.

Removing doors. The movement of the doors is carried out using rollers. To dismantle, loosen the upper rollers by lifting the door leaf up, remove from the lower guides, remove from the upper guide. The door leaf is heavy, it is advisable to do the work with an assistant.

Important! The doors are removable inward, so when taking out, watch the edges of the canvas so as not to scratch the inner surfaces. Removing side panels

Fastening the panels to the frame is simple: on the one hand, it is inserted into the wall strip of the general structure, on the other hand, it is pressed by the central post. From above and below it is held with the help of fasteners, with the removal of which the dismantling of the panels begins. While holding the panel, remove the screws that secure the stand. Then move the stand itself, releasing the panel

Removal of side panels. Fastening the panels to the frame is simple: on the one hand, it is inserted into the wall strip of the general structure, on the other hand, it is pressed by the central post. From above and below it is held with the help of fasteners, with the removal of which the dismantling of the panels begins. While holding the panel, remove the screws that secure the stand. Then move the stand itself, releasing the panel.

Important! Try not to press hard on the glass during work. This can damage the material.

• Dismantling the frame. First, unscrew the screws, unfasten the strips from the walls, remove the remaining silicone. Next, remove the upper part of the structure, and then the entire frame from the pallet, gradually unscrewing the screws.
• Removing the pallet.

Consider several options for pallets and dismantling methods:

Dismantling shower cabins with different pallet heights has a lot in common. A distinctive feature of this procedure is the presence of an apron (decorative screen) on pallets with legs, the disassembly of which is best left to a specialist.

Procedure

Precise adherence to the order of actions helps prevent common mistakes. Having started disassembling the structure, you need to competently carry out each stage, adhering to the standard instructions.

Removing the door

Most of the types of shower cabins have the same design, and the doors in them move on special roller mechanisms placed in the guides. Dismantling the doors requires first loosening the screws holding the rollers on the top. After unscrewing the screws, the lower rollers are removed from the guides, slightly lifting and pulling out the door. For convenience, it is better to carry out this manipulation with an assistant, since a large-sized door can be difficult to lift and hold on your own.

Removing panels

Glass or plastic panels are fixed to the frame from both sides with fasteners. If the panel stands close to the wall, then it is secured on the side by racks or strips. Starting to remove the panels, remove the clamps from both sides, then hold the panel and unscrew the screws holding the rack. Having moved the part, remove the panel and lightly press down on the glass or plastic in order to pull the material out of the side groove and completely remove the panel. Follow this instruction to remove all side panels.

It is important to keep in mind that in some situations the removal of panels can be problematic due to the presence of silicone seals. As a result of long-term operation of the shower stall, the seals are firmly adhered to glass and plastic components of sanitary equipment

Faced with this problem, you need to carefully cut the seals with a wallpaper knife.

Disassembling the frame

To dismantle the frame, the strips are separated from the walls by unscrewing the screws, then the traces of silicone are cleaned off by treating with a solvent and scraping off with a knife. Next, you need to remove the upper part of the frame, which will make it easier to carry out the rest of the work. The frame is removed from the pallet and all screws are unscrewed for complex dismantling.

Dismantling the pallet

When disassembling a pallet, there are two options depending on the specifics of the initial assembly. If, during installation, the pallet was placed on a brick base, then its dismantling will not be particularly difficult. When the pallet is mounted directly into the floor, it will take some effort to disassemble it. It is easier to dismantle a pallet with high edges. The sequence of actions for dismantling is as follows:

Remove protection and sealant residues by applying a solvent.
Gently trying to pull out the pallet
It is important to be careful as the plastic element can be easily damaged.
If the pallet cannot be removed by hand, use a pry bar to lift it.
Pulling the pallet out of the screed, they clean the traces of glue, silicone and other building compounds from its body.

How to disassemble a watering can

The need to disassemble the watering can may arise when the structure is clogged. First, the watering can is disconnected from the hose, and if the components are new, then this does not require effort. If the structure is rusty, then it is better to use a wrench to unwind. Then, the plug is removed from the central part of the watering can, prying it with a sharp knife. After removing the plug, access to the screw will be opened, which must be unscrewed with a screwdriver. If a large amount of deposits accumulates on the surface of the screw, then first clean the groove with a blade. After unscrewing the screw, detach the mesh from the case.

Cleaning products

To clean the watering can of a regular or more difficult-to-clean tropical shower on your own, you can use:

• special chemicals;
• folk remedies.

Application of chemical compositions

How do I remove limescale and limescale deposits from the shower spray? The easiest way is to use household chemicals, which are different:

• fast cleaning;
• no negative impact on the body and other structural elements;
• cost-effectiveness.

The most popular remedies are:

• Cillit Bang;
• Dressing duck;
• Mister Muscle;

Descaler

Cleaning from scale and lime with household chemicals should be carried out in accordance with the instructions on the packaging and in compliance with all safety rules.

Folk remedies

How to clean the inside of the watering can in the absence of specialized products? You can use folk methods, among which are popular:

1. vinegar. For the procedure, use 7% vinegar. The use of essence is prohibited, as it negatively affects the body of the plumbing device. Cleaning is done like this:

• a solution is being prepared;
• all elements of the watering can are immersed in the solution for 6 - 10 hours (you can leave it overnight);

Using vinegar

the elements are rinsed with running water.

For greater efficiency, the vinegar solution can be periodically heated to a temperature of 55 ° - 60 ° C.

1. lemon acid. Cleaning is carried out in a similar way. For full effect, it is enough to soak the watering can in the solution (1 sachet of citric acid is required for 1 liter of water) for 2 - 3 hours;

Citric acid technology

1. a solution of soda, ammonia and vinegar. For 1 liter of water, you will need 3 tablespoons of soda, 350 ml of 9% vinegar and 150 ml of ammonia. For a quick action, it is recommended to heat the prepared solution to 60 ° C. Cleaning time is from 40 minutes to 1 hour;
2. oxalic acid. In extreme situations, with a high degree of contamination, cleaning can be carried out using a solution of oxalic acid, which is purchased at the pharmacy. To prepare the solution, you will need 1 liter of water and 2 tablespoons of acid. The processing time is 20 - 60 minutes.

Aggressive cleaning agent

Cleaning of plumbing equipment by any means should be carried out exclusively with rubber gloves, as acid and other active substances can damage the skin of the hands.

After complete elimination of contamination, the assembly is carried out in the reverse order.

When assembling, it is important not to forget to install all O-rings and, if necessary, to seal the connections of the hand shower with the shower hose.

To clean the plumbing equipment does not take much time, it is recommended to carry out it once every 6 - 8 months (if filters are available) and once every 4 - 5 months if such equipment is not available.

Disconnecting from communications

The process of independently disconnecting the shower stall from the water supply system and the electrical network will require special attention. The sequence for disconnecting the multifunctional plumbing device from communications is as follows:

• disconnecting the structure from the electrical network;
• shutdown of hot water supply taps and cold water systems;
• disconnection of flexible hoses and connectors for water supply;
• disconnecting the shower hydrobox or cubicle from the sewer system;
• disassembly of additional components, represented by shelves, dispensers and towel holders.

Cab disassembly process

At the next stage, the control taps for cold water supply and hot water supply are closed, and the filling hoses are unscrewed. If it is planned to connect a new multifunctional plumbing device, then the removal of taps and tees is not performed. The conclusion of disconnecting communications is to disconnect the shower stall from the sewer system.

Using a double siphon when installing will require removing the drain pipe from the siphon part.Installation of the system by means of an adjustable tee is more difficult, therefore, disconnection involves unscrewing the clamps and threads.

The booth is leaking - what to do?

Incorrect installation

In most cases, the cause of leaks lies in illiterate installation and poor-quality seams. To eliminate the problem, it is necessary to carry out work to seal the components. This process goes as follows:

• the old sealant is removed from the cab - a sharp knife is used for this. You need to act as carefully as possible, trying not to scratch the surface;
• disassembly of the booth frame - the components are washed with soapy water, dried and degreased with a solvent;
• in the next step, a new sealant is applied;
• a few minutes after applying the composition, you can start assembling the structure;
• at the final stage, the joints are again treated with a sealant, and the excess is wiped off with a dry cloth.

When taking hygiene procedures, splashes of water fall on the walls and other elements. As a result, with improper care, limescale appears, the seals lose their elasticity, crack and begin to let water through. To prevent this from happening, you need to regularly use special care products. Then the repair of shower cabins with your own hands will not interest you.

Leak test

The tightness test of the connection is carried out in a state that has not yet been assembled back. It is required to first draw warm water into the pan after complete drying. The device is placed on a floor covered with some kind of cloth or paper, so it is easier to see if moisture remains. If it is not there, then you can proceed to the second test - filling with ice and hot water. If the pallet reacts normally to water of different temperatures, then you need to check its exposure. It is necessary to stand in it, walk around, that is, apply the maximum weight with which they will affect the plumbing.

Preparatory work

renovation work renewal of the waterproof sealant layer

If, when assembling and connecting especially complex, in technical terms, structures, the help of qualified specialists may be required, then it is quite possible to disassemble such a device on your own, using the most minimal, traditional set of working tools.

The standard tools required for dismantling are represented by a sharp construction knife, a set of screwdrivers or a screwdriver, as well as a softener for the subsequent removal of the sealant.

Before proceeding with the dismantling, it is necessary to clean all surfaces of the shower stall with special detergents, drain the water, and also wipe the structural elements dry with a soft and clean cloth.

How to properly disassemble and clean the shower head

Before starting the repair of a failed device, it is necessary to prepare some tools:

• gas wrench;
• pin wrench, which should have been included with the watering can;
• Phillips screwdriver.

There is such a set in almost every apartment, therefore, there should be no problems with finding the necessary things.

Note! Be extremely careful during assembly and disassembly.

The watering can consists of a large number of small parts that can be easily broken or lost through carelessness.

After all the tools are assembled, you can start the process of parsing the shower head. Algorithm of actions:

we shut off the water in the shower;
turn off the shower mode on the tap;
unscrew the nut that connects the watering can with the hose;
We carefully inspect the panel of the water diffuser, noting the attachment points. Usually there are no more than 5 of them, and they are located in special recesses in the body;
unscrew the connecting elements using a special key supplied with the watering can.If not, pick up a pin wrench from your home toolbox. In the absence of a pin wrench, ordinary scissors or a knife will do;
the unscrewing process can be started from any screw, the main thing is to do it sequentially, clockwise;
Once the top cover of the shower head is removed, you will have access to the swirl box, which is attached to the back of the shower head with a screw;
take a Phillips screwdriver and unscrew the screw;
then it is necessary to carefully dismantle the movable dividers and partitions designed to diffuse the water flow. This should be done carefully so as not to lose or break fragile parts;
take out the swirler;
we get the spring responsible for switching the mode of dispersion of the water pressure, if it is provided in the design

Do this carefully so as not to stretch or tear the part.

If the swirler box is fastened with latches, it is not recommended to open it yourself

The clamps are extremely fragile, with any careless movement they will become unusable. It is not possible to restore them after a breakdown.

In order to clean the insides of the watering can from plaque, it is allowed to use:

1. A vinegar solution. We take a container for soaking clogged parts and pour 200-300 milliliters of 9% vinegar there. We dilute with water and lower the details of the watering can into the resulting solution. It is necessary to soak for at least 10 hours, otherwise the result will not meet your expectations.
2. Lemon acid. We dilute citric acid in warm water and lower the disassembled watering can there. We wait 30 minutes and take the parts out. We wash them in water and wipe them dry with a rag.

Additional tips and tricks

Plumbers insist that absolutely not all breakdowns can be repaired. In many cases, especially when it comes to a pallet from a low price category, which is made of practical but short-lived acrylic, it is easier not to waste time, but to buy a new copy right away. But if the pallet is quite expensive, and the cracks themselves can most likely be eliminated, then it makes sense to start repairing using expensive adhesives.

It is also recommended:

• Carefully select the means for cleaning and degreasing the pallet.
• Carry out work only in a ventilated area.

The device is used when it is completely dry. For branded adhesives, this period is about 1-2 days.

Share link:

Why is the drain leaking and what to do

Causes:

1. Error during installation: the joints are incorrectly installed, the sealant was applied poorly.
2. Cracks in the plastic pipe due to improper cleaning, during repair or installation.
3. The appearance of a gap on the top of the drain after prolonged use. Unfortunately, the plastic device is not very durable, and after prolonged use, the top of it can loosen and begin to leak water.
4. High pressure on the siphon joints due to blockage. If a blockage has formed, and there is a large amount of water in the sump, then due to the high water pressure in some models, the joints may begin to leak.

If the drain began to leak, then not always a complete replacement is the only way out. Repair will help to solve the problem.

First you need to find out exactly where the leak occurs. If cracks are found, then it is advised to use an adhesive bandage to eliminate them:

• Turn off the water and dry the damaged area with a hairdryer.
• Take dense material for the patch. It could be a piece of rubber or plastic.
• Use epoxy glue to glue the patch to the damaged area. Dry.

Important! After the pipe has been glued, the shower stall cannot be used for 24 hours. If water flows at the joints of the siphon, then it must be carefully disassembled, cleaned, and applied with a new sealant

If water flows at the joints of the siphon, then it must be carefully disassembled, cleaned, and applied with a new sealant.

Parsing the cockpit

In order to significantly facilitate the independent analysis of the shower stall, it is advisable to process all joints with silicone sealant using a special solvent composition. To this end, it will be necessary to thoroughly coat the joints with a solvent, and then proceed to a quick but neat dismantling of the structure.

Assembled cab

You can replace the ready-made sealant remover with a traditional solvent or gasoline, which helps soften the waterproofing compound, after which it can be easily cut with a sharp knife.

With a high pallet

The main difference between shower cabins with high trays is represented by the presence of a special protective screen that directly covers the bowl, which makes the appearance of such a structure aesthetic and complete.

As a rule, such a screen is fixed with standard brackets, therefore, during the dismantling process, the element can be easily removed, and, if necessary, reinstalled in its proper place.

It should be remembered that a high pallet is always installed on a special support with legs, so it is very easy to move the bowl on your own, and then move it to a new place.

Low pallet

It is quite easy and simple to independently dismantle the pallet, which is installed directly on the floor surface. As a rule, for the simplest shower trays, it is necessary to snap off the front panel, which is slightly squeezed on both sides. In this case, the sealed layer can be removed with a special solvent or cut off with a sharp construction knife.

Low pallet

It is important to note that special compounds designed to soften silicone sealant operate for a very limited period of time, most often no more than a quarter of an hour, so all work must be done quickly and accurately

Suitable adhesives

For repairs, it is recommended to purchase such compositions.

Desmokol

Desmokol is used in the shoe industry. This effective product bonds not only polymers, but also wood, leather, iron and other materials. Suitable for repairing a shower stall only if it will not bend afterwards. Otherwise, the result will be short-term.

Gelcoat

Its gel-like structure is convenient. First, a layer of fiberglass impregnated with the composition is laid out. Then it is covered with another layer. Thus, they are waiting for complete drying.

Epoxy adhesive

Epoxy glue differs in that it consists of a resin of the same name and a hardener. It can be one-component (immediately ready for use) and two-component (must be mixed in certain proportions with other formulations). In order to glue them a pallet, you need to take:

• fiberglass;
• solvent;
• polyurethane foam;
• respirator;
• putty knife;
• scissors.

The bottom line is that you first need to degrease and then dry the surface. The epoxy adhesive is poured out for 24 hours, left, bonded to the surface and left again for this time period.