Clematis seed planting and outdoor care

Growing clematis from seeds at home is not easy, because the seeds of this plant require special preparation. But if you follow all the intricacies of sowing, you can get beautiful vines in your garden.

Some types of clematis (clematis) are very different from each other. Among the representatives of this genus are herbaceous plants, shrubs and vines. The latter are the most popular. Clematis flowers differ in shape and color. Therefore, the seeds of this plant are not the same. Their appearance depends on the type and variety.

What do clematis seeds look like?

Clematis seeds can be:

• Small (in size from 1.5x3 to 3x5 mm). They sprout from 2 weeks to 4 months. Such seeds are found in clematis hogweed, Tangut (popular varieties - Helios, Locator of Love), Farges.
• Average (from 3x5 to 5x6 mm) - in Manchurian clematis, whole-leaved, grape-leaved, etc. Seeds sprout from one and a half to 6 months.
• Large (from 5x6 mm to 1x1.2 cm) - in purple clematis (Viticella), straight, burning, Siberian, Alpine, etc. Such seeds can germinate for about a year. Many gardeners do not have the patience to wait for the shoots to appear, so these clematis are often grown from cuttings.

Clematis seeds have a bizarre shape: a long tail leaves a round or oval seed

Stratification and sowing of clematis seeds

Since medium and large seeds of clematis germinate for a rather long time and uncommonly, they must first be prepared for sowing - stratified.

In early spring, sow seeds (large - to a depth of 2 cm, medium - 1 cm) in a container with a soil mixture of equal parts of peat, sand and garden soil and keep for several months at a temperature of 0 to 5 ° C (for example, in a refrigerator or in the garden under the snow with a layer of about 20 cm). It is enough to stratify medium seeds within one month, and for large seeds it will take at least three.

• Stratification of perennial seeds - detailed instructions with a photo

  The most effective ways to stratify the seeds of various ornamental crops.

After cold stratification, seeds emerge 10-20 days after sowing

If you decide to stratify your clematis seeds in the snow, be sure to protect them from rodents with a fine mesh or a sturdy plastic container.

When there is no time for stratification, the germination of clematis seeds can be increased by soaking (for 5 days), while the water must be changed every 3-4 hours. After that, the seeds must be bubbled for a week. And small seeds of clematis just need to be soaked before sowing for several days.

At the end of the preparatory work, place the container with clematis seeds in a room with an air temperature of 21-25 ° C on a lighted windowsill and water it regularly.

Picking and planting a clematis seedling

In the phase of 2 true leaves, cut the seedlings into separate containers or in a bulk container so that the distance between the shoots is 15-20 cm. After transplanting, continue to water the clematis regularly, but moderately. When doing this, protect the plants from direct sunlight and drafts. When it gets warmer outside (in regions where return frosts are possible - not earlier than summer), transplant clematis into a flower garden.

If there is a heated greenhouse, seedlings can be cut into it. And with the onset of stable warm weather, transplant it into open ground.

Choose a place for clematis with deep groundwater and good drainage, dig a planting hole deep enough (so that the root system can fit there). Lower the seedling into it, straighten the roots, set a support next to the plant.

The distance between clematis seedlings should be 40-50 cm

Fill the voids with fertile soil so that not only the neck of the clematis is 5-10 cm underground, but also the stem of the shoot up to the first internode. At the same time, 8-10 cm should remain to the edge of the pit. Water the plant well and mulch with peat.

As clematis grows, add soil to the root collar regularly. To stimulate the regrowth of new shoots, it is recommended to pinch the plant periodically.

Clematis of small-flowered varieties grown from seeds, under favorable conditions, bloom in the first year after planting in the ground, and the rest - only in the next season.

If you don't want to mess with picking, sow clematis seeds in separate containers. And in order to make it completely easier for yourself, try sowing in the fall immediately into open ground. In the soil, the seeds will naturally stratify and sprout in the spring. However, in regions with an unstable climate, immature plants often freeze out, so it is better to grow clematis in the middle lane by seedlings.

 

 

Clematis (lat.Clematis), or clematis, or willow, is a genus of perennials of the buttercup family. This is a gentle and charming handsome man, a luxurious seducer of the hearts of gardeners. Clematis can easily compete in beauty with exotic overseas wonders: large flowers of various colors fall into the garden from a two-meter height with a waterfall. Like any handsome man, clematis will make the owners take care of themselves, without this they cannot wait for its lush flowering. But, as a noble gentleman, he will thank you for your efforts, giving you the opportunity to admire the luxurious flowers for several weeks.

   

Different types of clematis are not very similar to each other. Among them there are shrubs, shrubs, herbaceous perennials, but most of the species belong to the group of lianas. Bisexual clematis flowers are single or collected in inflorescences of various shapes (half-umbel, scutellum, panicle). The color gamut of clematis is very wide: from pale pink to dark red, from light blue to velvet blue, and, of course, there are clematis of white and yellow shades.Each flower lives for two to three weeks, many varieties of clematis exude an aroma reminiscent of primrose, jasmine or almonds.

   

Clematis growing from seed

 

In the huge variety of species and varieties of clematis for gardeners, there is a temptation to start breeding yourself. For those who are interested in growing clematis from seeds, it is worth knowing the necessary information about this process.

According to the size of the seeds and the duration of their germination, clematis are divided into three groups:

❶ Clematis with large seeds that germinate for a very long time and unevenly - from one and a half to eight months, or even longer (clematis of Durant, Jacqueman, purple, woolly, etc.).

❷ Clematis, the seeds of which are medium in size and germinate within one and a half to six months (clematis whole-leaf, Manchurian, six-petal, Douglas, Chinese, etc.).
❸ Clematis with small seeds, germinating both quickly and amicably - from two weeks to four months maximum (clematis Tangut, grape-leaved, etc.).

Clematis seeds harvested this year germinate best, but if stored in paper bags at 18-23 ºC, it will last four years for germination. According to the sowing time, the timing is as follows: small seeds are sown in March-April, medium ones - after the New Year holidays, and large ones - immediately after harvesting, in the fall or at the beginning of winter. To accelerate germination, the seeds must be soaked in water for ten days, changing the water 4-5 times a day. Then put in a container a substrate consisting in equal parts of earth, sand and peat, moisten it, spread the seeds on it in one layer, sprinkle it with a layer of sand 2-3 times the diameter of the seed and, slightly compacting, cover with a fine mesh or glass. The optimum temperature for germination of clematis is 25-30 ºC. From time to time, the substrate is gently watered into the pan so as not to wash the seeds, and the emerging weeds are removed.

 

Saplings of clematis

 

 

When seedlings emerge, provide them with sufficient light, but protect them from direct sunlight. When the first true leaves appear in the seedlings, they dive into separate pots or bowls and grow in room conditions until the last frost has passed. Then the seedlings are transplanted to a shady area, in light soil, observing an interval of 15-20 cm between them. From time to time, pinch the plants so that they increase the root mass and branch more strongly. In the fall, cover your seedlings, and in the spring, transplant them again into a trench 5-7 cm deep, keeping a distance of half a meter between the seedlings. Shorten the shoots by leaving a few knots on them. After 2-3 years, when the seedlings have at least three elastic roots 10-15 cm long, they will be ready for transplantation to a permanent place.

 

 

Clematis planting in open ground

 

How to plant clematis. To grow clematis to give the expected result, we first find out where and when to plant it. The landing site should be protected from drafts and well lit, but shading is desirable at midday. The soil is preferable slightly alkaline, loamy, fertile, well fertilized and drained. The best place for clematis is a mound or a specially made embankment, which will not allow the root of an adult plant reaching a meter in length to rot from the proximity of groundwater. Do not use either fresh manure or sour peat as fertilizer - plants do not like this. Do not plant clematis close to the wall of the house (water flowing down from the roof after rain should not fall on the clematis) or the fence, keep a distance of at least 30 cm.

As for the time, the planting of clematis is carried out both in the spring and in the fall. If the purchased clematis seedling is in a container, then you can plant it at any time of the year, except for winter. But if you did not manage to plant the purchased clematis in the fall, store them in a cool (no warmer than +5 ºC) room, sprinkle the roots with moist loose soil (sawdust with sand), pinching the shoots from time to time to restrain their growth until spring. If you find that the roots of clematis are dry, soak them in cold water for several hours before planting to swell.

Planting clematis in spring In places with a cool climate, it is customary to plant clematis in the spring, in late April or early May. A spring seedling must have at least one shoot.Dig a hole 60x60x60, pour 10-15 cm of crushed stone, broken brick or perlite on the bottom for drainage. If the land on the site is infertile, change it to fertile by adding 2-3 buckets of compost, one bucket of sand and peat, 400 g of dolomite flour and 150 g of superphosphate (mix everything thoroughly, preferably a year before planting). Install removable or dig in stationary supports for shoots up to 2.5 m in height, they will support the vines in strong winds. Pour a mound of prepared earth on the drainage layer, place a seedling on it, distribute the roots carefully over it and cover it with prepared soil so that not only the neck of clematis is 5-10 cm underground, but the stem of the shoot up to the first internode is also in the ground ... Fill the hole with soil not to the level of the surface, but so that it remains 8-10 cm to it. Water the plant with a bucket of water and mulch the recess around the clematis with peat. During the spring-summer season, the excavation is gradually filled with soil. The distance between clematis bushes should be at least one meter.

Planting clematis in the fall In the southern, warmer regions, it is customary to plant clematis in autumn, in September-October, provided that the planted clematis has developed vegetative buds. Autumn planting is carried out according to the same principle as spring planting, only the planting pit is completely covered with earth. From above, the planting site is mulched with a layer of dry leaves and covered with lutrasil or something else. In the spring, around these seedlings, the soil is selected to the same depth (8-10 cm), but during the summer this excavation is gradually filled with soil until the levels coincide. This is done to make it easier for the shoots to break through to the surface.

 

 

Clematis outdoor care

 

Clematis care is within the power of any florist, even a beginner. Clematis loves moisture, so it needs good watering at least once a week, and 2-3 times in a hot summer. Young plants drink 10-20 liters at a time, more mature ones - 20-40 liters. Dig in several pots with a hole in the bottom around the clematis bushes, and the water that fills them during watering will slowly penetrate deep into the soil and moisten the layer in which the roots of adult clematis are located, languishing with thirst in the hot summer. If you did not mulch the soil in the spring, then you will have to loosen it from time to time a day after watering, simultaneously with weeding. Mulch helps to retain moisture in the soil and prevents weeds, so do not neglect the advice, mulch the soil with peat, moss or humus.

As for the use of fertilizers, then in the first year you do not need to overuse fertilizers so that the weak plant does not rot along with the fertilizers. Clematis are fed during the period of active growth with nitrogen fertilizers, during the budding period with potash fertilizers, after flowering with phosphorus fertilizers, and after summer pruning with full mineral fertilizer at the rate of 20 g per bucket of water and copper solution. Every spring, clematis is watered with milk of lime (chalk and dolomite flour). Do not feed clematis during flowering, otherwise it will lose activity. In a rainy summer, sprinkle the lower part of the trunk with wood ash to prevent root rot.

Supports for clematis To hold the vines, there are such types of supports as arches, fan structures and pyramids on sale. Choose what you like best, but remember that the thickness of the part that the vine will directly cling to should be no more than 1-1.2 cm in diameter. Take into account the fact that, growing, clematis gain a large mass and become heavy, especially after rain, therefore, the strength of the material from which the supports are made is of great importance. A good idea is a cylinder dug into the ground made of a rare metal mesh - such an openwork "pipe with legs" inside which clematis will grow, subsequently covering the metal mesh with its leaves and flowers.

 

 

Clematis reproduction

 

We have already written about how to grow clematis from seeds. In addition to the seed method of reproduction in culture, the reproduction of clematis by autumn and summer layering, by pinning young shoots and dividing the bush is used. The division of the bush is carried out in plants no older than 6 years old; it is very difficult to fight with the powerful root system of an older plant. The bush is carefully removed, the root is cleared of the ground and divided by pruning shears so that each division has buds on the root collar.

To make layering, cut off the leaves from the shoots in the fall in October, separate the faded part to the first developed bud, weave them into a bundle and lay the clematis cuttings in grooves with a layer of peat, fix them, sprinkle the shoots with peat on top, then cover it with earth and compact it. Cover the plant with spruce branches or dry foliage for the winter. When spring comes, water the planting site often and abundantly and, as soon as the shoots appear, mulch the surface around them with peat or humus. By the fall, many of the young plants will be ready to be transplanted to a permanent location. You need to dig out the sprouts with a pitchfork so as not to damage the roots. Layers can also be laid in the summer, but then it will be difficult to preserve the shoots in the winter.

In the spring, it is better to do the pinning of the shoots: last year's shoots at the site of the knot are pinned into pots with loose earth and peat, dug into the ground below the surface level so that water does not spread out during watering. As the seedling grows, the soil is poured into the pot with a tubercle, and by autumn excellent clematis seedlings grow from the shoots.

 

 

Pruning clematis

 

Pruning clematis is done during the growth of the plant, as needed to extend the flowering period, and for the winter. If you remember, there are three groups of clematis:

❶ The first group of clematis (group A). In this group, flowers are formed on last year's shoots, so only weak shoots are cut off. Do this after flowering in June. Before winter, clematis huddle high.

❷ The second group of clematis (group B) blooms both on last year's shoots and on the shoots of the current year. Pruning is done at a level of 0.5-1 m, leaving 2-5 pairs of buds, and weak shoots are cut to the base. The liana is removed from the support, folded up and neatly laid at the roots.
❸ The third group of clematis (group C) forms inflorescences only on young shoots of the current year, clematis of this group are pruned several times during the growing season. In the fall, all shoots are cut to ground level or slightly higher.

 

Clematis post-flowering care

 

When autumn comes, you need to think about how your clematis will live in winter. In dry weather, under the base of any clematis, in the center of the bush on the eve of winter, pour out a bucket of humus, after removing all the leaves and treating the neck of the plant with a two percent solution of copper sulfate. Then you need to spud the clematis to a height of 10-15 cm with sand and ash (250 g of ash per bucket of sand). They cover clematis that need it in a dry way: the shoots are bent or twisted and laid on the base, covered with dry leaves (spruce branches, even crushed foam is used), then covered with a wooden box so that there is air around the plant, roofing felt, roofing felt or another waterproof material, which is pressed down in the corners with stones or bricks so that it is not blown away by the wind, and all this is covered with an earthen or peat layer of 20-25 cm from above.

In the spring, the soil and the film are first removed, and the spruce branches or leaves are removed only when the threat of frost has passed. The shoots are carefully lifted, straightened and distributed on supports.

 

 

Clematis diseases and pests

 

Most often, clematis suffer from such a fungal disease as wilting. Plants lose tissue elasticity, wither and dry out. There are several causative agents of diseases with such symptoms, but they all live in the soil and affect primarily the root system. Therefore, it is very important to comply with agrotechnical requirements, especially since the manifestation of the disease can be noticed already in early spring.In May, remove the affected areas and pour clematis under the root with a 2% solution of Fundazole or Azocene. Severely affected specimens must be removed along with a clod of earth, and the place where they grew is disinfected with the same preparations. The same means (Fundazol and Azocene) fight diseases such as gray rot and powdery mildew.

Rust affects clematis, also a fungal disease, manifested by orange pads on leaves and shoots in spring. As a result of the development of the disease, the leaves turn brown, dry, the shoots are deformed. Spraying with 1-2% Bordeaux mixture, as well as oxychom or copper oxychloride, is used against rust. At the end of summer, dark gray necrosis may appear on the leaves and shoots, making them velvety and changing their color. In the middle of summer, clematis can get sick with ascotichosis, which causes necrotic spots of irregular shape on the leaves, or cylindrosporiasis, which "decorates" the leaves with bright yellow spots. Against all these diseases, preparations containing copper are effective - a 1% solution of copper sulfate, for example.

Clematis is resistant to viral diseases, but sucking pests can infect the plant with a yellow mosaic of leaves, against which there are no drugs yet, so the diseased plants will have to be destroyed. In the future, do not plant clematis next to plants that are easily affected by mosaics - hosta, sweet peas, delphinium, aquilegia, phlox and peony. Sometimes clematis are affected by rootworm or leaf nematodes. When removing rotten specimens, look at the condition of the plant roots, and if you find nodules on the roots, do not plant clematis in this area for several years.

 

Where to buy clematis seeds

 

The Scientific and Production Association "Sady Rossii" has been introducing the latest achievements in the selection of vegetable, fruit, berry and ornamental crops into the wide practice of amateur gardening for 30 years. In the work of the association, the most modern technologies are used, a unique laboratory for microclonal reproduction of plants has been created. The main tasks of NPO Sady Rossii is to provide gardeners with high-quality planting material for popular varieties of various garden plants and novelties of world selection. Delivery of planting material (seeds, onions, seedlings) is carried out by Russian post. We are waiting for you for shopping: NGO "Gardens of Russia"

 

Clematis are decorative flowering plants from the Buttercup family. The first planting of clematis from seeds began in Japan, where flowering and spreading clematis was cultivated for a long time as a houseplant. Both species were imported from China. In Europe, they appeared in the 16th century: first, clematis violet took root, after which clematis, burning, straight, evergreen, spread. In the 18th century, the list expanded, and new species appeared: virgin, curly, forest. Their flower was very large, up to 5 cm in diameter, and care and cultivation did not cause much trouble.

Clematis seeds: size and sowing time

The popularity of clematis began to grow rapidly with the advent of large-flowered species from Asia: spreading, flowering and woolly clematis. The range of species has expanded, and active work has begun on the development of new varieties. Species plants reproduce vegetatively and by seeds, varietal ones only vegetatively, most often in summer, but they can be grafted onto a rootstock grown from seeds, which will be frost-hardy and more hardy than the mother plant, and it will be easier to care for it. But some varieties, such as the popular The President with large purple flowers, are able to retain their specific characteristics.

Caring for clematis is quite simple, with a high decorative effect. The Tangut clematis is most easily propagated by seeds, with small white flowers that completely cover the bush in summer. The size of the seeds varies from species to species, which has a strong influence on the cultivation of a particular variety.The time at which the seeds are planted depends on the size: the first group is sown as soon as the seeds are collected from the plant - in the fall, the second - in February, and the third - in the spring, in March - April.

It is common to cultivate such types of clematis from seeds as Tangut (Radar Love variety) and Manchurian; the President variety reproduces well through seedlings, the care of which is easier than for most varieties of the Florida group. Most small-flowered hybrids are grown by this method - planting material can be purchased in stores or obtained independently, from your own plants, choosing the largest ones.

The following groups of clematis are distinguished, depending on the size of the seeds:

1. Species with large seeds are hybrids of Jacqueman, Durand, a representative of Florida hybrids - The President variety, straight, spreading, woolly and purple clematis. They germinate for a long time - up to a year.
2. Species with medium-sized seeds are Manchu, Chinese, curly, whole-leaved clematis. They can germinate up to six months, but some varieties sprout in 6 weeks.
3. Species with small seeds are Tangut (Radar Love variety), grape-leaved, gray-gray, erect clematis. They germinate quickly, sometimes after two weeks. Maximum - up to three months.

Growing clematis from seeds

Large seeds can be stratified within 3 months at temperatures up to + 5 ° C at home, for example, in the refrigerator. They need to be planted in the spring. When planting in the open field in autumn, the seed is covered with snow for a period of 3 months. Small seeds are sown in the spring directly into the ground or in a greenhouse. For better germination, they can also be stratified. In the southern regions, where the air temperature does not drop below -14 ° C, clematis is usually sown directly into the ground in mid or late winter. Planting material of burning, Chinese Manchurian and paniculate clematis is pre-soaked for 7 days, periodically changing the water.

The cultivation of clematis begins with the selection of the soil mixture. A properly selected substrate will greatly facilitate plant care. It is better if it is a mixture of sand and nutrient soil in a 1: 2 ratio. The selected container is filled with it and the seeds are sown superficially, sprinkling with a small layer of sand, after which the soil must be rolled. Maintenance consists in regular watering through the sump. If the seeds are planted directly into the ground, the beds must be properly prepared for them: the distance between the rows should be at least 30 cm.

Seeds are sown to a depth of 1-3 cm, sprinkled with sand, mulch the soil with sawdust, rolled up and covered with light shields. Seedlings appear in spring. Some of the clematis species grown in this way, such as Tangut, Violet and Whole-leaved, may bloom one year after planting. Large-flowered varieties such as The President can bloom for 2-3 years. If they develop correctly, they quickly build up a powerful root system, and it becomes easier to care for them.

Tip: large seeds are often attacked by rodents, therefore, if boxes with them are planned to be left outside, it is better to protect the crops with a metal mesh or cover with glass.

Sowing seeds at home

Planting and growing clematis from seeds at home begins with cold stratification in the freezer for half an hour. Then they need to be removed, left for 2 hours at room temperature, put back in the freezer, and the process must be repeated three times. Then the seeds are soaked in a growth stimulator for 2 hours, washed, laid out on a saucer, covered with a bag or glass and placed in a dark place. After 3-4 days, they begin to remove the package for a short time, airing the seedlings. Clematis germinate from seeds for 10 days, the temperature should be at least +25 ° C. After that, they can be sown into a container.

There is another way: the seeds are sown in December in boxes or pots with a moist fertile substrate. They are placed on a glassed-in balcony or in an unheated greenhouse. In the spring, the boxes are brought into a warm room and placed on a light windowsill. Crop care consists in regular watering. The first shoots will appear in 20 days, but sometimes this process can take the whole summer, so you need to be patient.

Care of young plants

When the seedlings grow up to two pairs of leaves, they are dived in separate pots or planted in the ground at a distance of 20 cm from each other. Caring for them consists in periodically pinching the shoots when they begin to grow back - this will make it possible to actively develop the root system, and not build up the green mass. The land between the rows is loosened and mulched after each irrigation with humus and ground cover and perennial plants are planted around, for shading, so that it does not overheat and does not dry out.

The aboveground part of the plant develops slowly - first, the root system grows, and then the green shoots. Growing and caring for young clematis from seeds differs from the agricultural technology of adult vines. They need to be watered and sprayed, weeds weeded, fed regularly and correctly: about once every 2 weeks. Ash mixed with rotted mullein and superphosphate is used as fertilizer. With this method of propagation, plants usually bloom in the second or third year, depending on the variety.

Sometimes seedlings are grown before planting in open ground so that they get stronger and acquire a powerful root system. Only after this is clematis planting from seeds to a permanent place - these plants do not like transplanting. It is better to choose it in advance so as not to disturb the roots later. Further care of the vines is simplified: now it is necessary to water the seedlings abundantly only in dry periods, in summer. Bushes are fed once a month, alternating mineral and organic fertilizers. Most clematis need pruning: depending on the species, it can be complete or partial. Shelter for the winter will also be required.

It is important to plant clematis correctly, choose a bright place, sheltered from the winds, with suitable nutritious soil. They do not like stagnant water, and if the groundwater is close, drainage from broken brick, expanded clay or crushed stone is poured onto the bottom of the planting pit. You can fill a small hill, raising the root system so that there is no high humidity, and maintenance becomes easier. Planting begins with an examination of the roots: the patients remove it by sprinkling the damage with charcoal, straighten the roots in the pit and cover it with earth, leaving a small depression to add fresh soil as clematis develops. It is better to tie the shoots to a support immediately so that they are not broken by the wind.

Conclusion: Clematis can be propagated vegetatively or grown from seeds. The easiest way to use this breeding method is for small-flowered clematis. The easiest to grow are the Tangut (Radar Love) and Manchurian varieties, as well as the large-flowered The President. Seeds can be of different sizes, the sowing time depends on it.

Planting large seeds should be done after cold stratification. It is important to properly care for the seedlings: water through a pallet and shade from direct sunlight. It can be planted directly into the ground when the snow falls - after 3 months shoots will appear. Caring for young plants consists of watering, regular feeding and proper pruning of shoots. Clematis will need shelter for the winter. Plants bloom from seeds in 1-3 years.

We will tell you how to plant clematis outdoors and how to care for it as a beginner. Please note that clematis requires special attention to itself. With proper care, they will delight you with their flowering and decorate your home.

The article presents the most complete material for caring for clematis planted in open ground.Once familiarized, you will be able to grow beautiful healthy flowers, and you will not have any difficulties.

Clematis will become an aesthetic element of your exterior. One of the most frequent questions that comes to our editorial office: what varieties of clematis are suitable for the Moscow region. We tried to reveal the topic of the selection of varieties for different growing regions as much as possible.

Description of Clematis with photo

Belongs to the buttercup family. In nature, there are about 300 species that can be found on all continents (except Antarctica) - in forests, steppes, along river banks, in gorges and on rocky placers.

• Types of clematis vary greatly among themselves. In herbaceous perennials (C. mandshurica, C. recta, C. texensis) shoots die off by the end of the growing season. Semi-shrubs (C. heracleifolia, C. integrifolia) have a lignified lower part that persists for several years, and an upper one that dies off every year.
• Shrubs (C. fruticosa f. Lobata) have completely lignified wintering shoots. Most of the species (C. tangutica, C. vitalba, C. viticella) belong to the group of leaf-climbing lianas, which use supports, climbing along them with the help of leaf stalks.
• The root system of clematis is of two types: pivotal (C. tangutica, C. serratifolia) and fibrous, C. viticella). It must be remembered that clematis with a tap root system does not tolerate transplantation well. It is better to plant them immediately in a permanent place.

Name

The name "clematis" comes from the Greek wordklema, which once denoted every climbing plant. Of the many popular names (lozinka, grandfather's curls, warthog, etc.), "clematis" is most often used in Russia. Probably, this vine was named so because of the strong smell of dug roots or because its seeds have a curved outgrowth.

Escapes

Clematis have thin, 2-5 mm in diameter, shoots of the current year. In herbaceous species, they are round, green, in woody ones - four-hexagonal, light or dark reddish-brown in color. They develop in spring from dormant buds on the underground part of the plant or from aboveground buds of overwintered shoots.

Clematis leaves are paired, simple or complex, consisting of three, five or seven leaves, in addition to the usual green, there are forms with a purple color.

Clematis flowers, as a rule, are bisexual, single or collected in inflorescences of various shapes (scutellum, panicle, semi-umbrella). The role of petals in clematis is played by sepals, in number from four to eight, in double varieties - up to seventy.

"Spider"

In the center of a simple flower is the so-called lush "spider" (many pistils and stamens], it often has a different color than the "petals", which gives the flower a special charm. And delicate flowers are painted very whimsically: white, yellow, all the nuances of transitions pale pink and pale blue to velvety shimmery reds and blues.

• And this charming picture pleases more than one day - the life of a flower lasts a week or two, and a double one - almost three. By choosing the right varieties, you can achieve flowering clematis in the garden from spring to autumn.
• After all, the early species are covered with flowers two months after the spring awakening, and the later ones - at the end of summer. Their flowering will be interrupted only by stable frosts.
• Short-term drops in temperature at night (up to -2 ... -7 ° С) and light snow are not terrible for clematis - after warming, the buds open. The flowers of some species exude the scent of jasmine, primrose, almond.

Clematis fruits are numerous achenes with short or long pubescent columns and hairy beaks, collected in fluffy silky heads.

From the history

the beginning of the cultivation of clematis in Western Europe dates back to the 16th century, and in Japan the culture of clematis has an even longer history. In Russia, clematis appeared at the beginning of the 19th century as greenhouse plants.

Active work on the cultivation and introduction of clematis in our country began to develop only in the middle of the 20th century. And as a result of selection work, wonderful varieties and forms have been created, which further emphasize the unique charm of these magnificent plants.

Classification

with all the variety of species, varieties and forms of clematis, there is a convenient classification for gardeners, which allows not only to easily group plants according to the shape and color of flowers, but also to choose the appropriate agricultural technology. All varieties are divided into groups.

Zhakman

- large shrub vines with shoots 3-4 m long and a well-developed root system. The flowers are large, blue-violet-purple tones, odorless.

• They are distinguished by abundant and long flowering on the shoots of the current year.
• For the winter, the shoots are cut to the level of the soil or the bases of the shoots are left with 2-3 pairs of buds.
• The ancestor of the varieties of this group is the large-flowered variety 'Zhakman'(‘Jackmanii’) or K. x Zhakman(Jackmanii = Clematis x Jackmanii), when crossed with varieties of other groups.

Viticella

- shrub vines 3-3.5 m long. The flowers are open with a predominance of pink-red-purple velvety tones in color. They are characterized by lush and long flowering in summer on the shoots of the current year. Shoots are cut off for the winter. The cultivars are obtained from the crossing of C. violet (C. viticella) with forms and cultivars of other groups.

Lanuginose

- shrub vines with thin shoots up to 2.5 m long. The flowers are large, wide open, mostly light in color (white, blue, pink). They are distinguished by massive flowering on the shoots of the previous year. When pruning shoots in the fall of the next year, flowering begins in the second half of summer on the shoots of the current year.

Patens

- shrub vines 3-3.5 m long. Flowers are open, single, up to 15 cm in diameter or more, color from light to bright blue-violet-purple, deep violet tones. Many varieties have double flowers. Blooming on shoots last year. Shoots in the fall should only be shortened, removing the faded part, and covered until spring. Varieties from spreading clematis (C. patens) with varieties and species of other groups.

Floridbut

- shrub vines with shoots up to 3 m long. The flowers are open, of various colors, but light colors prevail. Blooming on shoots last year. They should be shortened to 1.5-2 m in length and kept under cover during the winter.

If you cut them off completely, then a rather weak flowering occurs only from the second half of summer on the shoots of the current year. The varieties were obtained by crossing the flowering clematis (C. florida) with species and varieties of other groups.

Integrifolia

- vigorous, climbing semi-shrubs up to 1.5 m high. The flowers are half-open, bell-shaped, up to 12 cm in diameter, of various colors. Bloom profusely in summer on the shoots of the current year. Shoots are cut off for the winter. The varieties are obtained from whole-leaf clematis (C.integrifolia) when crossed with other species and varieties. Many interesting, profusely flowering hybrids of this group were created in the Nikitsky Botanical Garden by A.N. Volosenko-Valenis and M.A.Beskaravaynaya.

• Depending on the size of the flower, there are small-flowered (up to 5 cm in diameter) and large-flowered (more than 5 cm in diameter) clematis. Large-flowered climbing clematis include varieties and forms from the Jacqueman, Vititsella, Lanuginoza, Patens groups.
• For bush large-flowered clematis - varieties and forms from the Integrifolia group.
• Large-flowered clematis are considered especially beautiful and graceful, but small-flowered ones are no less good, moreover, they are very undemanding to growing conditions, give a lot of greenery and easily propagate by seeds.

Small-flowered clematis are unusually graceful, they bloom abundantly, and the original seed heads adorn the plant in autumn.

Choosing a variety of Clematis for the Moscow region with a photo

For planting in the North-Western regions of the European part of the country, Siberia, the Far East, where the summer is relatively short and the frosts are fair in winter, it is better to choose early and mid-early varieties from the Jacquemann, Viticella and Integrifolia groups, which bloom profusely on the shoots of the current year:

• Ville de Lyon,
• Japsey Queen,
• Victoria,
• Star of India,
• Luther Burbank,
• Hagley Hybrid,
• Madame Baron Vilar,
• Blue flame,
• Alexandrite,
• Golden Jubilee,

Alyonushka, Silver Stream, Polish Varshavyanka, Victory Salute. Anastasia Anisimova. Cosmic Melody. Huldin, Rouge Cardinal, Gray Bird, Cloud, AnEre Le-Roi. Lilac Star, Niobe ...

1. However, there are hybrids from the Zhakman group that are more suitable for the south: Elegy, Alpinist, Biryuzinka. Openwork.
2. In the north, these varieties bloom poorer over the years, although the mass of shoots increases. Clematis of the Lanuginoza groups, Patens, Florida (their first flowering occurs on the shoots of last year) are less winter-hardy and require shelter of vines even in the middle lane.
3. However, the varieties Madame Van Hutte, Losoniana, Nelly Moser, Stone Flower, Ramona, Lazurshtern, Ball of Flowers, Nadezhda, V.E. Gladstone, Mrs. Hope, Mrs. Cholmondeli, and in such inhospitable conditions, flaunt the sophistication of shapes and colors.
4. In the southern regions, clematis with double flowers bloom profusely: Madame Bajjun, Daniel Deronda, Jeanne d'Arc, Lord Neville. In the middle lane, these varieties will have only the first flowers on overwintered last year's shoots.

Species clematis

They know less, although many of them are not only quite effective, but also unpretentious, grow quickly, and are resistant to drought and fungal diseases. The average duration of flowering of small-flowered clematis ranges from 2-2.5 weeks to 3-4 months, the record holders include eastern, Texas, Tangut clematis, and Peter's clematis and mustachioed Balearic bloom in the south of the country even in winter.

In addition to these advantages, some of them have a wonderful aroma: almonds - Armand's and David's clematis, burning; primroses - straight clematis, Manchurian, Redera; jasmine - paniculata clematis.

Location

clematis are light-loving plants. If there is not enough light, not only will you not achieve good flowering, you may not even wait for it at all. Therefore, in the middle lane, it is best to plant them in sunny or slightly shaded areas at midday. Only in the southern regions, where clematis often suffer from overheating of the soil, are they planted in partial shade.

For group plantings, each plant should receive enough light, and the distance between the bushes should be at least 1 meter. The wind is a terrible enemy of clematis not only in summer, but also in winter: it breaks and confuses shoots, damages flowers. Where snow is blown off in winter, planting clematis is not a good idea. And in the lowlands, where cold air accumulates, clematis feel uncomfortable.

Clematis are very demanding on moisture: during their growth, they need abundant watering. At the same time, wet, swampy areas with a high standing of groundwater (less than 1.2 times are not suitable for them, even if the water stagnates only for a short time. Waterlogging of the soil is dangerous not only in summer, but also in early spring during and after snow melting. planting clematis, you need to think about the natural outflow of water from the bush: add earth, plant bushes on ridges or dig slopes with a slope.

The soil

Clematis prefer fertile sandy loam or loamy soil, rich in humus, loose, from slightly alkaline to slightly acidic reaction.

Landing

since clematis can grow in one place for more than 20 years, they prepare the ground very deeply in advance. Usually, holes are dug with a size of at least 60x60x60 cm, and for group plantings, the site is prepared over the entire area.

• 2-3 buckets of humus or compost, 1 bucket of peat and sand, 100-150 g of superphosphate, 200 g of complete mineral fertilizer, preferably 100 g of bone meal, 150 -200 g of lime or chalk, 200 g of ash.
• On light soils, more peat, leaf humus and clay are added.
• If the soil on the site is wet, dense or clayey, then a 10-1 5-cm layer of crushed stone, broken brick or coarse sand is poured onto the bottom of the pit. Thoroughly mixed earthen mixture is poured into the pit and compacted.

In the southern regions it is preferable to do this in autumn (from late September to early November; in the middle lane the best time is September (in warm weather - and later); even further north, clematis are planted in spring (late April - May) or early autumn. Plants in containers can be planted whenever you want (except for winter, of course).

Support

A solid, rigid support is installed in the center of the pit. A stretched rope is not suitable here, it will not protect young fragile whips from gusts of wind. Having covered the hole with soil about half, they make a mound on which the roots of clematis are spread to the sides and down. Holding the plant with your hand, pour the mixture to the roots, making sure that the clematis is planted deeply.

• Only then will he develop a tillering center, on which new buds are subsequently laid, shoots and roots are formed.
• Such bushes better tolerate severe winters, suffer less from heat. Clematis planted flush with the surface are short-lived: they do not bush, grow in 1-2 stems, their root system suffers from soaking.
• The larger the seedling, the deeper the planting should be. Young one-two-year-old plants are buried by 8-12 cm and the lower pair of buds, more mature and divided bushes - by 12-18 cm.
• If clematis is planted in the spring, then the planting pit is not filled with earth to the brim, but left 5-8 cm uncovered so that the “newcomer” does not “suffocate”.

As the shoots become lignified, this space is gradually filled with soil. After planting, clematis is watered abundantly, shaded from the sun, and the surface of the earth around the plant is mulched with peat. When planting in the fall, the ground is poured to the edges, the entire aboveground part is cut off to the soil level or slightly higher.

Requirements. to the planting material

when planting in autumn, clematis must have developed vegetative buds; when planting in spring, at least one shoot. The seedlings must have a minimum of 3 roots less than 10 cm long. Plants with a weak root system are placed in a “school” for growing. Use only healthy planting material (the roots of the seedlings should be elastic, without visible damage, swelling and thickening).

Support

are of great importance for the normal development, abundant and prolonged flowering of clematis. It is important that they are not only practical and convenient for the plant, but also beautiful. As a supporting structure, galvanized pipes with a diameter of 3/4 inch are used. Wooden lattices impregnated with linseed oil or stain, a strongly stretched mesh made of nylon rope or thick fishing line with a mesh of 15x15 cm go well with them.

Supports for clematis are often bushes of weigela, chubushnik, forsythia.

Vines cling to them, rise up, hang freely, and in the second half of summer the bushes hide under garlands of flowers. Screens and arches are traditionally considered to be excellent supports. Clematis look very impressive on horizontal surfaces. for example, on wire-mesh hoops with a diameter of about 1 m, attached to a galvanized pipe at different heights. All supports are made removable and put away for the winter.

The reddish brick wall is very close to the purple star-shaped flowers of Clematis. However, his lashes need reliable support. To do this, a wire in the form of an extended letter S was pulled on hooks driven into the wall. If you keep running the clematis shoots by the wire all the time, its foliage will soon completely close the support and our "bindweed" will appear in all its glory.

A bamboo fence, braided in the photo on the left with a clematis variety ‘Nelly moser', Or an ordinary picket fence, as in the picture below, will provide the clematis with excellent conditions for climbing exercises. It is only necessary to evenly distribute its shoots over the surface of the fence. It is best to pass them between the planks or tie them to them with a cord so that the fence becomes covered with a solid floral carpet faster.

Care

in spring, clematis is spilled with milk of lime (200 g of lime per 10 liters of water per square meter).In dry weather, clematis is watered not often, but abundantly, making sure that the stream of water does not fall into the center of the bush. Clematis are fed at least four times per season after irrigation with full mineral fertilizer with microelements at the rate of 20-40 g per 10 liters of water or a diluted fermented mullein (1:10). Mineral and organic dressings alternate.

In summer, once a month, plants are watered with a weak solution of boric acid (1-2 g) and potassium permanganate (2-3 g per 10 liters of water), and the bushes are also sprayed with urea (0.5 tablespoons per 10 liters of water). Since clematis can suffer from overheating and dryness of the soil, in the spring, after the first watering and loosening of the planting, they should be mulched with peat or humus (in the northern regions) or sawdust (in the southern regions). To protect the soil from overheating and to close the lower part of the shoots, clematis are “knocked out” by lettucers.

In the spring, only for the first time, the vines are directed along the support in the right direction and tied up. Otherwise, the ones growing on the run will intertwine so strongly that no forces will be able to unravel them. Only in the varieties of the Integrifolia group, shoots and leaves are deprived of the ability to twine around supports, therefore they are tied up as they grow all summer. In the fall, before sheltering for the winter, clematis bushes are cut and carefully cleaned of old leaves.

The first two or three years, young specimens require especially careful care: in the fall or early spring, well-rotted manure mixed with any potash and phosphorus fertilizer, as well as wood ash (a handful of each in a bucket of humus) is added to the bushes, liquid fertilizing is done every 10-15 days in small doses.

Pruning

the beauty of clematis largely depends on how correctly pruning is done. The first time the shoots are shortened when planting, this is important for the formation of the aboveground part and the development of the root system. One or two shoots grow from the lower pair of buds left during planting, which must be pinched in the summer. Regulatory pruning is carried out in the summer. To extend flowering, some of the shoots are cut in the spring.

At the beginning of summer, vines can be shortened again to the first vegetative buds, which will give rise to new shoots with buds. Tall varieties such as Gypsy Queen, Luther Burbank, Stone Flower, Ernest Markham have flowers at the top of the bush.

• Here it is worth cutting off several vines at a height of 0.7 to 1.5 m, then they will be covered with buds more evenly. Now about pruning for the winter.
• In the varieties of the Zhakman and Viticella groups, the flowers of which are formed on the shoots of the current year, before the shelter for the winter, the entire aerial part is cut off to a real leaf or to the soil level. Do the same with the varieties of the group.
• Integrifolia and some small-flowered clematis: Manchu, straight, Texas and six-petal. In varieties belonging to the Lanuginoza, Patens and Florida groups, flowers are formed on the shoots of the current year and last year.

Their first flowering occurs in early summer on overwintered shoots. The second is on the shoots of the current year, from mid-summer to autumn. The small-flowered clematis Armanda and mountainous belong to the same company. In the fall, before the bushes of these groups are sheltered for the winter, the vines are removed from the supports, all dry, weak, broken shoots are cut out, and the most developed, strong ones are shortened to 1-1.5 m, bent to the ground or rolled up in a ring and placed at the base of the bush.

Clematis

Open-root clematis can be planted in fall or spring. If the clematis seedlings are in containers, then you can transfer them into the garden at any time of the year, except for winter.
Usually, clematis seedlings are purchased at the age of one to two years; annual seedlings are much cheaper.
Clematis seedlings may have a thin stem 5–20 cm long (it seems dry to many novice growers). Sometimes seedlings are sold without a stem at all, in the form of a bunch of roots with sprouts or with awakened buds.

If clematis seedlings were purchased after the onset of autumn cold weather, dig them in the garden and cover them with earth.

When in the fall it is not possible to plant purchased clematis, postpone planting seedlings until spring. In winter, store them in a cold, frost-free cellar or basement (at a temperature no higher than + 5C). Cover the root system of the seedlings with a slightly damp mixture of sawdust and sand, or other suitable loose soil.

In storage, plants need to be pinched to curb the rapid growth of shoots. Each pinch restrains their growth for 2-3 weeks. The growth rate of shoots depends on the temperature of the seedlings. By spring, clematis germinates strongly in the storage, therefore, after planting in the garden, seedlings with young shoots during the acclimatization period are shaded from the sun (in the first 10 days).
Clematis can withstand frosts down to -6C.

Let's talk more about how to plant and how to grow clematis

The cultivation of clematis usually begins with the acquisition of a one-year-old seedling.How and when to plant it? How to care for clematis in the future?

The best time to plant is early summer, when the danger of late frosts is over. But you can plant it in the fall, a month and a half before real frosts. The seedlings should have enough time to take root.

• It is recommended to plant clematis in a well-lit, wind-protected place.
• These plants thrive on alkaline, neutral or slightly acidic soils. For planting clematis, they dig holes, on heavy soils 70x70x70 cm, on light soils 50x50x50 cm.
• The distance between the pits is from 70 cm to one meter. Clematis cannot stand waterlogging and stagnant water. If the groundwater is close, gravel is placed on the bottom, broken brick with a layer of 10-15 cm.

Before planting clematis, the pits are filled with nutritious soil (fatty loose clay is well suited), add 1-2 buckets of humus and 50-100 g of superphosphate or nitrophosphate. Clematis seedlings are buried 6-8 cm, leaving a hole around the plant. The next year, the plants are deepened by another 10-15 cm. The degree of deepening depends on the soil - on heavy soils they deepen less, on light soils more. After planting, the shoots are cut shortly, leaving 2-4 lower buds. After a few weeks, when the shoots have grown, they are pruned again. Vigorous pruning of clematis in the first two years of life promotes better root development.

Soil erosion

After you have planted clematis, water it abundantly; for better access of water and preventing soil erosion, you can make a hole around the plant. It is a good idea to mulch the soil with sawdust or peat. The seedling must be shaded from direct sunlight.

When planting clematis, do not forget about the supports. They need to be installed right now. There are many beautiful fences, lattices, ladders on sale. You can make supports yourself, but remember that they must be not only strong, but also attractive in appearance, because lashes of clematis will close them only in the second half of summer. The height of the supports is from 1.5 to 3 meters.

As clematis grows, every 2-3 days, the shoots need to be tied to a support so that the wind does not tear them off.

How to care for clematis

Watering and fertilizing

Clematis is water-loving: it requires abundant three-bucket watering at least once a week, and up to three times in the summer heat. Dig in three pots with a hole in the bottom to keep the plant moist enough. They will accumulate water during rain or watering and slowly feed the vine's root system on dry days.

• If the soil is not mulched, you will have to loosen it a day after watering, while weeding the weeds.
• Mulch protects the soil from excessive drying out, weathering and freezing, enriches it with microelements, helps in the fight against weeds.
• Do not neglect this manipulation. Mulch the soil around the clematis with sawdust, peat, or moss.

Several times a season, the plant needs to be fed.In May - with urea (1 tablespoon per bucket of water), from June to August - complex fertilizer for garden flowers at least twice. After the second bloom, provide nourishment for the clematis in winter. To do this, add 1 tablespoon of potassium sulfate and superphosphate to a bucket of water.

Watering

When growing clematis, watering plays an important role. Clematis must be watered abundantly, especially in the first two years after planting. Under three-year-old bushes, you need to pour 2-3 buckets once or twice a week. Proper watering is the key to a beautiful and lush flowering of plants.

For better moisture retention, it is recommended to loosen and mulch the soil near the plants. For mulching, you can use humus, peat, rotted sawdust.

In the first two years, clematis mainly grow horses, few shoots are formed, only 1-3. Single flowers appearing on these shoots are best cut off. Then, with proper, careful care, 5-6 year old bushes will develop dozens of shoots and hundreds of beautiful flowers will bloom on them.

New strength - new shoots

From the third year, clematis are gaining strength, many new shoots grow. By pruning and pinching the shoots during the summer, flowering times can be adjusted. So, if you shorten some of the strong shoots, clematis flowers will appear on the growing new shoots later and the flowering will be longer.

Clematis are very responsive to feeding.

It is recommended to fertilize grown plants once a week. They are fed with full mineral fertilizer (30 g per 10 l of water per 2 sq. M of soil).

Can be fed with wood ash (1 cup per plant). As a fertilizer, mullein is well suited, which is diluted at the rate of ten parts of water for one part of manure.

Plant calendula or marigold bushes at the roots of clematis. These plants secrete substances that repel pests. In addition, they will protect the clematis roots from overheating.

Shelter of clematis for the winter

Clematis are natives of the warmest places of the globe, so they need shelter for the winter. In late autumn, all clematis are pruned, but pruned in different ways, depending on which group the variety belongs to.

Clematis leaves are paired, simple or complex, consisting of three, five or seven leaves, in addition to the usual green, there are forms with a purple color.

And those clematis, the flowers of which are formed on annual shoots, for example, in varieties of the Zhakman and Viticella group, should be cut off in the fall, leaving hemp with 2-3 nodes.

After that, the plants are covered with boards, boxes, covered with earth, leaves, spruce branches, sawdust, rotted manure, weathered peat with a layer of 20-30 cm. And when snow falls, it must be thrown on top.

Lay down, covering with leaves

Some growers do not cut the vines, but after laying them on the ground, cover the lower part with fallen leaves, crushed peat, dry inflorescences of large perennials about 20 centimeters thick. On such plants, lashes up to half a meter long with live buds are preserved. In the spring, they remove the shelter, cut off the dead parts of the vines.

• Then lateral shoots begin to develop faster, which bloom profusely all summer.
• Currently, varieties of frost-resistant clematis have been developed, blooming on last year's shoots. These are clematis: alpine, large-petal, Siberian, mountain.
• For such varieties, pruning is not necessary and they can winter without shelter in the middle lane. Siberian Clematis also withstands colder wintering, up to -30 degrees.

In the fall, remember that too dense shelter impedes ventilation, and plants can die from this.

Clematis in the spring

In spring, one should not rush to open clematis: intermittent frosts and bright sun have a detrimental effect on the kidneys. And when the danger of spring frosts has passed, the shelter is removed, after which the clematis are fed with nitrogen fertilizers, for example, urea - 40 g per 10 liters of water.On acidic soils, clematis is watered with milk of lime (200 g of slaked lime per 10 liters of water per 1 square meter of soil).

Requirements

For the successful cultivation of clematis, it is imperative to take into accounta number of requirements this culture. Clematis are photophilous and prefer sunny places protected from the wind. The soil should be permeable, loamy, slightly alkaline (calcareous) or neutral, fertile, well fertilized and loose. Saline, damp, heavy, acidic soils are unsuitable for clematis. Please note that fresh manure and sour peat harm clematis.

Clematis leaves are paired, simple or complex, consisting of three, five or seven leaves, in addition to the usual green, there are forms with a purple color.

If the soil in the garden is clay, from the clematis planting site, make a drainage groove to drain excess water and cover it with sand. At the bottom of the planting pit (60x60x60 cm in size), lay a layer of rubble 10-15 cm, perlite, etc. for drainage.

The soil

Completely replace the infertile soil layer extracted from the pit with fertile soil with the addition of humus (humus from the Californian worm, well-rotted compost).

• Also add 150 g of superphosphate and 200 g of lime, or 400 g of dolomite flour to the substrate, mix everything thoroughly.
• It is advisable to prepare the soil a year before planting the seedlings, so that it can be neutralized with lime material and settle well.
• Install supports before planting clematisfor vines (preferably removable for the winter) with a height of 2-2.5 meters. The support system should provide support for the vines in strong winds.

Never plant clematis close to a wall or fence, there should always be a space of 10–20 cm between them. At the very wall, the soil is usually very dry, and this, as a rule, leads to poor growth, rare flowering and plant death. When planting clematis near the house, install supports for them at least 30 cm from the wall. The water flowing down from the roof should not fall on the vines.

Landing

After the preparation of fertile soil, planting pits and the installation of supports,planting clematis... If the roots of the seedling are dry, soak the plant in cold water for several hours before planting. At the bottom of the planting pit, pour a bump of earth, put a clematis seedling on it and straighten it, evenly distribute its roots over the bump.

• Cover all the roots, the root collar of the seedling and the stem (if any) up to 5–10 cm with earth, making a depression to prevent water spreading during irrigation.
• If you are planting clematis in the spring, then cover it with earth up to the first internode. Abundantlypour a bucket of water.
• Until autumn, gradually add fertile soil so that the depression is covered.

When planting clematis in the fall in the spring, you can remove part of the soil from the plants themselves, and add soil until autumn. This should be done in order to facilitate the emergence of shoots, weakened after plant transplantation, to the soil surface.

Landing

Choose a "cozy" place on your site. There should be no strong wind here. It is advisable to take the place well lit. Clematis belongs to the vines, which means that he will need support. However, do not rush to plant a clematis plant near the wall of the house - the water dripping from the roof is extremely unfavorable for this gentle garden dweller. Retreat at least 30 cm from the walls of the building or fence. Remember that the flowers of the plant will unfold to the south, southeast.

Clematis leaves are paired, simple or complex, consisting of three, five or seven leaves, in addition to the usual green, there are forms with a purple color.

Now prepare a hole under the seedling clod, 10 cm deep more than the height of the clod itself. At the bottom, form a slide and lower the seedling, gently spreading the roots around it. Fill the remaining depression with soil to the level of the landscape. If the top of the plant loves sunlight, then the roots are shaded. Therefore, it is recommended to plant a cover plant within a radius of 1 m from clematis.Pansies and lobelia work well for this. These flowers will protect the soil from drying out and will not compete with the vine for nutrients, not to mention their aesthetic beauty.

Support

Select and install a vine support immediately after planting. Supports can be homemade - one or three bamboo or walnut rods connected by a pyramid. In garden centers, more decorative models are presented in the form of arches or metal nets in different versions. Place the first shoots on a support by hand, straighten and tie them up. Subsequently, the plants will cling to themselves due to the peculiarities of the structure of their stems.

Clematis leaves are paired, simple or complex, consisting of three, five or seven leaves, in addition to the usual green, there are forms with a purple color.

Clematis care includes:

• regular deep watering (at least 1 time per week, and in extreme heat - 2-3 times);
• loosening the soil (if it is not mulched);
• weed removal;
• top dressing (preferably organic) during the growing season - about 2 times a month.

In the first year after planting, clematis seedlings do not need to be fertilized. Further fertilize them in the same way as regular perennial flowers. Top dressing of clematis with "Strawberry Concentrate" showed good results. A suitable top dressing is water in which unsalted meat or fish has been washed.
Every spring, water clematis with milk of lime (dolomite flour, chalk) and a solution containing copper (one tablespoon per bucket of water).
Good results are obtained by dusting the lower part of the vines with wood ash after rain - this prevents clematis shoots from withering during frequent rains, especially on heavy soils. On light soils, wilt of clematis is rarely observed.

Formation

Clematis vines reach the greatest decorativeness at the age of 3-7 years.
After the age of seven, the flowers of clematis begin to shrink due to the lack of fertilizers and water, because in the heat, in the absence of good rains, irrigation water no longer penetrates deep to the roots (they reach a length of 60–70 cm or more). To prevent this from happening, you can dig 3-4 pots with a hole in the bottom around the clematis bush. When watering the plants, the pots are filled with water, which does not spread anywhere and penetrates deeply.

Clematis leaves are paired, simple or complex, consisting of three, five or seven leaves, in addition to the usual green, there are forms with a purple color.

You can plant clematis on lawns, then the grass will protect the roots of the vines from the sun and overheating.

Almost all common varieties of clematis climb themselves to the support with the help of twisted or bifurcated leaf antennae, petioles. However, be sure to tie up young clematis once in the spring. To increase the decorativeness of the plant, direct some of the shoots in the right direction, first in the horizontal direction. Directional shoots will bloom below the main body of the plant. But bend the stems of the clematis very carefully, since the young green shoots are very brittle. During a warm evening and night, the shoots lengthen by 5–10 cm or more.
A clematis seedling grows 1-5 shoots over the summer, and in some varieties - up to 30. In the fall, before the onset of frost, cut the stems of the vines.

Wintering

Depending on the variety, clematis winter in different ways. They are divided into three groups: those that do not require cutting off shoots, that require cutting at a height of about 1 meter, and that require cutting at a height of 10-15 cm from the ground. This nuance must be graphically indicated on the package with the plant. Clematis do not freeze down to -6 ° C, in central Russia they require shelter.

• If your variety needs to prune shoots at a height of 1 meter, after pruning, carefully remove them from the support, twist them into a ring and lay them on the base of the stem.
• Sprinkle the plant with sawdust or leaves, cover with a wooden box without a bottom (such as in which fruit is sold in the markets), and on top - with a film, tar paper or roofing felt, pressing down their edges with stones.
• Do not cover the clematis too tightly, otherwise it may overheat.

In the spring, clematis does not show signs of activity for a long time, even if it tolerated the cold well. In this case, many novice gardeners make the mistake of digging up the plant and examining the roots. Liana does not like this very much, she does not tolerate any anxiety. Continue your routine, be sure to feed with urea in May, and be patient. Shoots will certainly appear when the time is right.

Wintering

with proper shelter, clematis bushes can withstand frosts up to 40-45 °, however, the main danger in winter and early spring is not frost, but waterlogging of the soil. In addition, after frequent thaws during the day and night frosts, layers of ice can form above the soil, which can break the roots and destroy the center of tillering.Therefore, it is important to completely exclude the ingress of water in winter to the soil surface and the base of the bush.

Clematis leaves are paired, simple or complex, consisting of three, five or seven leaves, in addition to the usual green, there are forms with a purple color.

Each plant takes about 3-4 buckets. Together with snow, such a shelter will reliably protect the root system of clematis from freezing.

If you need to preserve the lashes in the varieties of the Lanuginoza, Patens and Florida groups, in addition to dry land, the bushes are covered with boards, spruce branches, and on top with pieces of roofing material or sheets of old iron. If the frosts are too strong or there is little snow, it is added to the bushes additionally. In the spring, the shelter is removed gradually, part of the peat is left until the night frosts leave.

Pruning

is necessary for clematis to obtain long-term and abundant flowering, control flowering times, biological renewal of the bush and harmonious spatial distribution of shoots.
The degree of pruning depends on the difference in the biological properties of clematis from different taxonomic groups.

Depending on the characteristics of pruning and the intensity of flowering, clematis are combined into three groups. According to the new classification, there is no distinction between types of clematis in large-flowered varieties; they are now divided only by the cutting method into three groups:

First group pruningand or group A

- unites clematis, in which flowers are formed on the shoots of the previous year. On the shoots of the current year, flowers sometimes appear in small quantities. This group includes species and varieties of clematis from the former groups of Atragene, Montana, etc., which are grown without pruning (or after flowering, the generative part of the shoot is cut off). If the bush is very dense, then some of the faded, weaker shoots are cut to the base. This contributes to the development of more vital shoots of the current year, which will bloom next year.
Before sheltering for the winter in clematis of group A, only the generative (flowering) part of the shoots of the current year is cut off and weak shoots are completely cut out.

Second trim group or group B

- unites clematis, in which flowers develop both on the shoots of the current year and on last year's shoots. These include the former groups of clematis Lanuginosa, Florida, Patens and some varieties with characteristics similar to these groups. These clematis have early flowering in late May-June on the shoots of the previous year. The flowers are large, often double or semi-double; flowering time is short.

Clematis leaves are paired, simple or complex, consisting of three, five or seven leaves, in addition to the usual green, there are forms with a purple color.

Depending on the density of the bush or to obtain early flowering next year, a different degree of pruning is used. Only the generative part of the current year's shoot is removed if they want to achieve early flowering.Medium pruning (up to the first true leaf) and strong (removal of the entire shoot) are used when adjusting the number of shoots and for uniform flowering of group B clematis in the next year.

Third group pruningand or group C

- unites clematis, in which the bulk of flowers are formed on the shoots of the current year (former groups Jackmanii, Viticella and their hybrids). They bloom from July to mid-September; the maximum flowering is observed at the end of July - in August. Pruning this group of clematis is very simple: before sheltering for the winter, cut off all the shoots to the first true leaf (you can leave more buds)or to the bottom.

After the autumn pruning of clematis, they are carried outshelter before wintering.

Clematis of the third pruning group

in the fall, cut the shoots to the first bud, counting from the ground, or, as a last resort, in early spring (but then the bushes will be more difficult to cover for the winter). Cover them lightly before wintering. For a winter shelter, it is enough to overlay the base of the clematis bush with woody leaves, placing spruce paws or "dog" mint under the leaves to protect the shoots from damage by rodents. Cover the top of the shelter with a piece of whole plastic wrap, shading it from the sun. The winter shelter of clematis should be loose, but thick enough.

Clematis have the second and first trimming groups

 you can leave some of the shoots, cutting them at a height of 70-100 cm to large ripe buds. If there are no such buds (and this can happen during a cold short summer), then the shoots must be cut to the level of the soil or the lower part of the shoots 20–30 cm long should be left. more often this happens after a cold summer, when they do not have time to ripen.

• For clematis of the second and third pruning groups, cut off the leaves on the remaining vine and lay it on spruce paws or on "dog" mint, or just on the ground. The shoots left in the spring can be used to propagate clematis by layering. Sprinkle dry leaves on top of the shoots, put wooden shields on the leaves.
• Place bricks or any other suitable material underneath to prevent snow shields from falling on the ground. Lay a whole plastic wrap on top of the shields.
  You can do it differently: put shields on bricks, lay dry leaves on the shields, and a whole plastic wrap on top of the leaves.
• This method will require more leaves, and from the severity of the snow, the leaves are caked, which means that part of the thermal insulation is lost. But on the other hand, with this method of shelter, there are not many mouse nests under the shields. Mice use clematis shoots for nests, and the water rat eats the inside of the shoots.

Temperature

Shoots of clematis are afraid not so much of frost as of wet and cold weather, icing. Therefore, it is important to keep the clematis shoots dry in winter.
But with excessive cover, the shoots can get out.
It is also very important in the spring to remove the shelter from clematis in time.

Never use sawdust to cover clematis - they get wet, freeze, thaw very slowly in spring (because of this, in spring it is impossible to remove the shelter in time), which can lead to damping of plants.

• Next year, on the left and overwintered shoots of clematis, flowers will appear 20-30 days earlier than on the shoots of the current year. And in some varieties, flowers can even be semi-double.
  Some clematis (Jackmanii, Viticella) tolerate severe frosts - up to -40C (MA Beskaravaynaya).
• But this only applies to the underground part of the plant. The soil temperature rarely drops below critical, and it is always much higher than the air temperature (especially if the ground is covered with at least a thin layer of snow).
• In urban conditions, during thaws, snow melts faster than in fields.

Clematis that are not sheltered for the winter are damaged by sudden changes in temperature and humidity. The least hardy root collar of clematis.If an uncovered vine is on the surface, then its bark cracks from frost; during a thaw, moisture gets under the bark, which freezes and expands the cracks even more.
Many varieties and hybrids of clematis in the fall, before the ground freezes, sprouts underground from the root collar, which do not break through to the soil surface until warm spring days. These sprouts can suffer from winter frosts.

Reproduction of clematis

can be done in several ways, the simplest of which are:

• division of bushes;
• spring pinning of shoots;
• reproduction by autumn and summer layering;

Division of bushes

clematis is carried out at the age of no older than 6-7 years. Later, it is very difficult to do this because of the developed powerful root system, which breaks off strongly. Dig up the clematis bushes, free them from the ground and cut them into pieces with a pruner or knife so that each plant has buds on the root collar.

• For breeding clematisautumn layering in October, cut off all the leaves from the shoots, the faded part to a well-developed bud. Tie the shoots neatly into a bundle (you can use a ring, as space permits), put them in the grooves.
• Pour a layer of peat under the tourniquet and on top (peat by its nature is a very moisture-absorbing material, retains moisture for a long time and allows air to pass through well), and then compact the earth and soil, cover the whole plant well.
• Water often and abundantly for the next year. After the sprouts appear, mulch the soil surface with humus, moss, peat. By autumn, most of the young plants that have emerged are ready for planting. Only well-developed clematis buds grow.
• Roots are formed throughout the shoot, but the largest number of roots are located under the buds. It is better to dig out the plants with a pitchfork - the roots are less damaged.
  Layers for propagation can be laid in prepared grooves in spring, but then it is more difficult to keep the shoots in winter.

Better to spend in the springpinning shoots of clematis in pots with soil. The essence of this method is that last year's clematis shoots are pinned at the site of the knot into pots prepared in advance and dug into the ground, which are filled with very loose soil with peat. The pots should be buried in the soil below its level so that the water does not spread during watering. Gradually, as the seedling grows, moisture-absorbing soil is poured in the form of a tubercle. By the fall, high-quality clematis seedlings grow from the pinned shoots.

Summer layering

it is most convenient to propagate clematis in a vertical way. To do this, in the spring, put a box without a bottom on a growing plant. As clematis shoots grow, pour light fertile soil into the box until it is almost filled to the top. However, it is always necessary to leave the upper part of the shoot with well-developed two buds uncovered, otherwise the covered young shoots of clematis will stop growing.

Clematis leaves are paired, simple or complex, consisting of three, five or seven leaves, in addition to the usual green, there are forms with a purple color.

Fascination of numbers

Clematis can be propagated in three ways: by seed, by rooted layering and by dividing the rhizome. The seeds are treated with a rooting stimulant and planted on seedlings. For the first year, you can plant them in the ground for insulation. The seedlings have no peculiarities of care.

• You can propagate clematis by layering. To do this, select a section of the stem with an internode, leave one or two nearby leaves and plant it in a hole, deepening the internode into the ground.
• In the first year, the plant can also be planted under insulation, and the next year, it can be planted in a permanent place.
• The root of an adult, but not older than seven years, clematis can be cut into pieces with a sharp secateurs and planted.

As you can see, clematis is not as difficult to grow as many people think. But in their decorativeness, they are superior to many other plants.Abundant flowering will delight you twice a summer, and luscious greenery - a whole season, if you give the liana enough attention and love.

Choosing distribution methods

There are several ways to propagate clematis: by seeds, layering, cuttings and dividing the bush.

Clematis from seeds appear at different times. After sowing the seeds, do not be upset if they do not sprout from you in the same summer. The seeds of some varieties of clematis germinate only in the second and even in the third year, and sometimes even later. It is useful to water such crops in the summer after 2-3 weeks with a weak solution of boric acid (1-2 grams per bucket) and potassium permanganate (2-3 grams per bucket).

Clematis leaves are paired, simple or complex, consisting of three, five or seven leaves, in addition to the usual green, there are forms with a purple color.

Leave the rooted shoot of clematis in place for the winter. And in the spring, cut the lashes between the knots and plant the plants in a permanent place.

Reproduction of clematis by cuttings is also possible. Cuttings with one or two internodes should be cut at the beginning of flowering plants from the middle part of the vine, leaving 2 cm above the node and 3-4 cm below.To accelerate root formation, place the cuttings in an aqueous solution of heteroauxin (50-75 grams for 1 liter of water).

Cuttings

Plant the cuttings of clematis obliquely in boxes or containers in washed sand, peat or a mixture of sand and peat in equal parts. At a temperature of 20-25 degrees, cuttings root better, so spoil the container with a film and put it in a greenhouse or greenhouse. It is very useful to spray the cuttings during the rooting process.

Clematis leaves are paired, simple or complex, consisting of three, five or seven leaves, in addition to the usual green, there are forms with a purple color.

Fertilization

small-flowered clematis propagate, as a rule,seeds... Large-flowered plants are bred exclusively vegetatively. The easiest way to do this is by dividing the bush. In varieties with a high tillering ability (Anastasia, Anisimova, Jeanne d'Arc, Hagley Hybrid, Madame Baron Villard, Cosmic Melody), the division of the bush is used for rejuvenation, since very dense bushes, even with good care, often lose their decorative effect.

Active work on the cultivation and introduction of clematis in our country began to develop only in the middle of the 20th century. And as a result of selection work, wonderful varieties and forms have been created, which further emphasize the unique charm of these magnificent plants.

However, if in the fall this operation is almost painless for plants, since the buds are only marked and small, then in the spring time it is necessary to meet extremely tight deadlines (from the moment the soil thaws to the beginning of growth), since it is easy to damage the rapidly growing shoots. Clematis, divided in spring, will be about 2-3 weeks behind in growth compared to its autumn counterpart. In an adult 5-8-year-old plant that has a sufficient number of shoots, the ground part is cut off, leaving only 2-3 pairs of buds below.

Dig up with a clod of earth

The bush is carefully dug out with a clod of earth, taking care not to damage the long cord-like roots. If the soil is not easily shaken off, the roots are washed with water from a hose. Then with a knife it is divided through the center of the bush into independent plants. They work without haste, carefully, making sure that each section has enough roots and at least one shoot with buds.

Active work on the cultivation and introduction of clematis in our country began to develop only in the middle of the 20th century. And as a result of selection work, wonderful varieties and forms have been created, which further emphasize the unique charm of these magnificent plants.

At a half-dug bush, shoots with roots are separated with a tool, each of which will become an independent plant. Before planting, the delenki are examined, only healthy ones are used.The roots are pruned and disinfected in a pink solution of potassium permanganate.

Layers

It is quite easy to propagate your favorite variety by layering. There are several techniques. Here is the first one. The bush is sprinkled with peat or humus along the bottom 2-3 pairs of leaves. Within a year or two, the lower nodes of the shoots are overgrown with their own roots. Having removed the poured substrate, the rooted shoots are cut off from the mother plant and planted.

• This method is good because the bush itself is not injured. The second method requires some free space.
• In late summer or autumn, grooves 8-10 cm deep are dug around the bush in the radial direction. Clematis shoots with well-formed buds are removed from the support, laid out in grooves one by one, pressing them to the ground with brackets made of thick wire, and sprinkled with loose nutrient soil.
• The top of the shoot (20 cm) is taken out. You can do the same with a vine rolled around the base of the bush and sheltered for the winter.

In the spring, when the plant is freed from the shelter, one or more of these lashes are laid in a groove. Layers are regularly watered and fed during the summer. From almost all the covered buds, vertical shoots begin to grow, and rooting occurs at each node.

It is best to separate rooted shoots from the bush in the fall of next year or in the spring of a year later. By this time, each new shoot will have a good root system. From one sprinkled lash in a year or two, you can get up to 10 seedlings that do not need growing, the bush itself does not suffer. Another way of vegetative propagation isgreen cuttings.