Clematis planting and care in the open field for the winter

Clematis is a beautiful vine covered with hundreds of colorful flowers. This plant is very popular in our area. Such a colorful and lush garland will become the most amazing decoration for gazebos, fences or walls of houses. But most importantly, this plant is unpretentious in care and even the most inexperienced gardener can grow it.

Growing clematis in the open field with photos and videos

Planting in spring

Site selection and soil preparation

In the spring, in mid-May, you should start planting clematis in open ground. The plant loves areas with a slight shadow (in the bright sun, flowers of a rich color fade) and protection from wind and draft. Therefore, before disembarking, you should select and prepare a place.

First you need to prepare the soil for planting. It should absorb water well and be loose - the flower loves light and nutritious soil. Loamy or fertile soils are suitable for clematis.

Do not plant bushes in heavy and acidic soils. Since it will lead to the death of the plant. As for fertilizers in the form of fresh manure and peat, they will only harm the bush.

When choosing a planting site, special attention should be paid to soil moisture. Since clematis does not tolerate groundwater, it will be correct to plant it on a small hill made with your own hands. This will save the long roots of the plant from rotting. It is worth noting that in clematis, the rhizome reaches 1 meter in length.

If the soil is clayey in the garden where the bush is planned to be planted, then you can make a small groove and fill it with sand in order to divert all unwanted water from the flower.

Clematis can cover a fence or building

Planting pit

The next step is to prepare the pit for planting. Digging should be no more than 70 cm deep. Then pour a small layer of rubble on the bottom.All the soil that was obtained by digging the hole must be replaced with the prepared substrate. It is done in the following way:

1. take a bucket of earth,
2. add 0., 5 buckets of humus to it,
3. then add 100g of slaked lime and mix everything well.

Before planting a plant, you need to take care of the supports that can support the clematis garlands.

Landing

When everything is ready, you can start planting. First, you need to inspect the clematis root, if it is dry, then you should put the plant in water for a couple of hours.

Then, in the dug hole, on top of the rubble, pour a small layer of earth, and put a seedling on top.

Planting clematis in spring and autumn is almost the same

The roots must be distributed evenly over the width of the pit, covered with 12 cm of substrate from above.

It is very important that the hole in which the clematis is planted is not completely filled up. The remaining substrate is poured evenly until autumn.

Important: if you plan to plant clematis near the wall of the house, then the distance should be at least 40 cm between the bush and the wall. It is impossible for the water that flows from the roof after the rain to fall on the flower, this can destroy it.

In the case when it is planned to plant several clematis bushes, the distance between them should be at least 25 cm.

Planting and growing honeysuckle honeysuckle - beautiful vine

Preservation and planting of clematis seedlings: video

Planting in autumn

Many gardeners try to plant clematis in the fall. And if the seedling was purchased in the summer, then it is stupid to wait for the onset of spring. The plant should be planted in the fall.

The most optimal time for such manipulation is September. If you plant clematis later, then it will not have time to take root and may die. And if you plant earlier, the plant will grow for the winter, as a result, death is inevitable.

The planting method is exactly the same as the spring planting method. The only difference is filling the pit with a substrate, it must be completely filled up.

With the approach of the cold time of time, you need to take care of the preservation of clematis. A planted bush will need to be well covered for the winter, when choosing the time for this procedure, they are always guided by garden roses.

In the spring, you need to remove the shelter from the bush in time. Otherwise, it may die due to high humidity. And in order to determine the correct time for cleaning the insulation, you can navigate by the weather conditions. In this case, the forecast will help. The most important thing is that all frosts are left behind.

Important: Clematis lives and pleases with flowering for an average of 30 years. Therefore, when choosing a place for its landing, this feature must be taken into account.

Clematis care

After clematis is planted, it needs regular care. There is nothing difficult in this. The main thing is to pay attention to the flower in time.

For good development you will need:

• watering;
• fertilizer;
• weed removal.

Watering

When watering, it is always worth remembering that the plant does not tolerate excess water. In the spring, it can be watered no more than once a week. One bush requires 0.5 buckets of water.

When summer comes, and with it comes a strong heat, watering is increased up to twice a week. The volume of water remains the same. You need to water the bushes only in the evenings.

Fertilizer

As for soil fertilization, it must be applied during the growing period. And when the first flowers appear on clematis, all feeding stops until autumn. Once a month is enough. This technique works for an adult plant.

In the first year after planting the plant, it is not fertilized at all. Since in the first year, the bush received all the required fertilizing when planting.

Good fertilizer for this plant, concentrate for strawberries. You can also use ordinary water, in which raw unsalted meat was washed. Or buy a special product from a flower shop.

In the spring, when clematis wakes up from hibernation, it must be watered with a solution of chalk with the addition of copper sulfate. This will save him from many diseases.

It is not difficult to prepare such a mixture, for 15 liters of water you need to add 500 grams of chalk and 200 grams of copper sulfate. Mix everything well and water the plants at the rate of one bush ½ bucket of solution.

Weed removal

Regularly from the flower bed where clematis grows, it is required to pull out all the weeds. Since this plant takes all the moisture and nutrients for itself. The best option would be to sow with special grass all the flower beds where clematis grows. Such a procedure will help protect the bush from harmful plants, as well as save it from the strong sun.

This is the kind of beauty you can grow in your home

Reproduction of clematis

Clematis can be propagated both in spring and autumn. There are several breeding methods:

• seeds;
• cuttings;
• air layering.

Seeds

To grow clematis from seeds, you need to use seeds from the new crop. They should be sorted out. The larger ones are sown back in January, since they germinate for a very long time. And those that are sown smaller in March, from such seeds, the first sunrises appear in two weeks.

For sowing, a special substrate is being prepared, you can make it yourself, for this you need sand, peat and earth in equal parts. Everything is mixed and the soil for planting is ready.

Cuttings

Clematis should be cut in the fall. One of the main conditions is the age of the bush, it must be at least five years old. Cuttings are cut from the shoots, on which there should be two developed buds. Then, each shoot is treated with a phytohormone (you can use Fitosporin).

After this procedure, the cuttings are buried in a container with earth and lowered into the basement. Thus, they are stored until spring. During storage, you need to monitor the condition of the earth, it must be constantly wet. And the temperature is preferably about 0 ° C. At the end of February, they are transferred to a room with a temperature of 10-15 ° C.

You can breed clematis in the summer - with green cuttings

The first small shoots will appear in March. Containers with cuttings are taken out to the greenhouse. When the shoots reach 10 cm, the lower leaves are pinched off to give an impetus for root growth. In open ground, seedlings are planted in mid-May.

Air layering

This breeding method is the easiest.

1. First you need to dig up the soil around the bush.
2. Then level the soil and make a 6 cm deep groove in it.
3. Put in the groove the shoot chosen for removal and press it in several places with ordinary wire.
4. Next, take a little humus mixed with wet soil and sprinkle the shoot on top.
5. The tip should remain on the surface.

This method should be used in the fall. Therefore, before winter, the place where the layering is located must be thoroughly insulated.

In the spring, the insulation is removed. When a sprout appears, you will need to mulch all the soil that is around the cut. When September comes, the already grown seedling can be dug up and planted in a permanent place.

The shoot is laid in a groove, watered and covered with earth

Pruning

It is necessary to prune clematis in the fall, when the plant has bloomed and shed its leaves. In the south of Russia, in Ukraine, this procedure is performed in early November. In the suburbs, the Middle zone, the Urals, Siberia no later than mid-October. A dry and cloudless day is chosen for pruning.

How a young bush is pruned

If the plant is first year of life, then all shoots are cut off by 25 cm. When pruning, you need to try to leave a pair of buds on each shoot. This will help create additional vines as they grow, and next year the whole bush will be much more beautiful and lush.

Pruning an old bush

If clematis has been growing for many years, then all diseased, dry and broken shoots are removed from the bush. And the rest are shortened by 10 cm.

There are many varieties of clematis. And if a grower grows a bush that blooms twice a season, then the pruning will be slightly different. In this case, healthy shoots are cut in half.And dry, sick and superfluous are cut off at the root.

Universal way

There is also a universal cropping method. All bushes are pruned according to the principle of one.

One shoot is shortened in half.

The second is cut so that only 2 buds remain on it.

This is done throughout the plant.

Thanks to this method, the bush will turn out to be lush and well-groomed for the next flowering.

Important: Pruning clematis is necessary to give it a beautiful shape and so that the flowering lasts as long as possible. Mowing should only be done before wintering or early spring.

Pruning clematis flowering on this year's shoots

Diseases and pests

Clematis, like other plants, is susceptible to disease. One of the most common diseases is wilting "Wilt"... It is easy to see it, the first signs of damage are wilted leaves on the tops of the shoots. And if you do not start the fight in time, clematis may die.

Clematis disease - wilt

In the case when this disease was detected, all infected shoots should be immediately cut off at the root. And the bush itself, pour abundantly with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

Very often, at the end of flowering on the leaves of clematis, appears gray necrosis... To defeat this disease, it is enough to spray with a 1% solution of copper sulfate.

Very dangerous for this plant and a disease called rust... Its first sign is the leaves covered with a brown bloom. Over time, the leaves dry out from rust, and the shoot itself is greatly deformed.

To cure the bush, a solution of potassium permanganate of medium strength will come to the rescue. The whole plant is thoroughly sprayed with it, and before that, each infected leaf is removed.

They do a lot of harm and pests... One of the most dangerous parasites is nematode... It affects the root system of the plant, as a result of which it does not receive everything it needs for its growth from the soil. The problem is that you can fight the nematode in one way, the complete destruction of the entire bush.

In order to prevent the appearance of these parasites, when buying clematis, you need to carefully check its root.

It is very important to understand that if this parasite has managed to manifest itself on at least one plant, it should be immediately destroyed, otherwise the nematode will spread throughout the garden.

And the place where the bush grew must be processed to destroy all the eggs of this pest. Boiling water is the most suitable method.

Pruning and sheltering clematis for the winter

And in conclusion, I would like to add, clematis is one of the most luxurious plants in the garden. Let him please with his flowering, and diseases and parasites bypass him.

We will tell you how to plant clematis outdoors and how to care for it as a beginner. Please note that clematis requires special attention to itself. With proper care, they will delight you with their flowering and decorate your home.

The article presents the most complete material for caring for clematis planted in open ground. Once familiarized, you will be able to grow beautiful healthy flowers, and you will not have any difficulties.

Clematis will become an aesthetic element of your exterior. One of the most frequent questions coming to our editorial office: what varieties of clematis are suitable for the Moscow region. We tried to reveal the topic of the selection of varieties for different growing regions as much as possible.

Description of Clematis with photo

Belongs to the buttercup family. In nature, there are about 300 species that can be found on all continents (except Antarctica) - in forests, steppes, along river banks, in gorges and on rocky placers.

• Types of clematis vary greatly among themselves. In herbaceous perennials (C. mandshurica, C. recta, C. texensis) shoots die off by the end of the growing season. Semi-shrubs (C. heracleifolia, C. integrifolia) have a lignified lower part that persists for several years, and an upper one that dies off every year.
• Shrubs (C. fruticosa f. Lobata) have completely lignified wintering shoots. Most of the species (S.tangutica, C. vitalba, C. viticella) belongs to the group of leaf-climbing lianas that use supports, climbing along them with the help of leaf stalks.
• The root system of clematis is of two types: pivotal (C. tangutica, C. serratifolia) and fibrous, C. viticella). It must be remembered that clematis with a tap root system does not tolerate transplantation well. It is better to plant them immediately in a permanent place.

Name

The name "clematis" comes from the Greek wordklema, which once denoted every climbing plant. Of the many popular names (lozinka, grandfather's curls, warthog, etc.) in Russia, "clematis" is most often used. Probably, this vine was named so because of the strong smell of dug roots or because its seeds have a curved outgrowth.

Escapes

Clematis have thin, 2-5 mm in diameter, shoots of the current year. In herbaceous species, they are round, green, in woody ones - four-hexagonal, light or dark reddish-brown in color. They develop in spring from dormant buds on the underground part of the plant or from aboveground buds of overwintered shoots.

Clematis leaves are paired, simple or complex, consisting of three, five or seven leaves, in addition to the usual green, there are forms with a purple color.

Clematis flowers, as a rule, are bisexual, single or collected in inflorescences of various shapes (scutellum, panicle, semi-umbrella). The role of petals in clematis is played by sepals, in number from four to eight, in double varieties - up to seventy.

"Spider"

In the center of a simple flower is the so-called lush "spider" (many pistils and stamens], it often has a different color than the "petals", which gives the flower a special charm. And delicate flowers are painted very whimsically: white, yellow, all the nuances of transitions pale pink and pale blue to velvety shimmery reds and blues.

• And this charming picture pleases more than one day - the life of a flower lasts a week or two, and a double one - almost three. By choosing the right varieties, you can achieve flowering clematis in the garden from spring to autumn.
• After all, the early species are covered with flowers two months after the spring awakening, and the later ones - at the end of summer. Their flowering will be interrupted only by stable frosts.
• Short-term drops in temperature at night (up to -2 ... -7 ° С) and light snow are not terrible for clematis - after warming, the buds open. The flowers of some species exude the scent of jasmine, primrose, almond.

Clematis fruits are numerous achenes with short or long pubescent columns and hairy beaks, collected in fluffy silky heads.

From the history

the beginning of the cultivation of clematis in Western Europe dates back to the 16th century, and in Japan the culture of clematis has an even longer history. In Russia, clematis appeared at the beginning of the 19th century as greenhouse plants.

Active work on the cultivation and introduction of clematis in our country began to develop only in the middle of the 20th century. And as a result of selection work, wonderful varieties and forms have been created, which further emphasize the unique charm of these magnificent plants.

Classification

with all the variety of species, varieties and forms of clematis, there is a convenient classification for gardeners, which allows not only to easily group plants according to the shape and color of flowers, but also to choose the appropriate agricultural technology. All varieties are divided into groups.

Zhakman

- large shrub vines with shoots 3-4 m long and a well-developed root system. The flowers are large, blue-violet-purple tones, odorless.

• They are distinguished by abundant and long flowering on the shoots of the current year.
• For the winter, the shoots are cut to the level of the soil or the bases of the shoots are left with 2-3 pairs of buds.
• The ancestor of the varieties of this group is the large-flowered variety 'Zhakman'(‘Jackmanii’) or K. x Zhakman(Jackmanii = Clematis x Jackmanii), when crossed with varieties of other groups.

Viticella

- shrub vines 3-3.5 m long. The flowers are open with a predominance of pink-red-purple velvety tones in color. They are characterized by lush and long flowering in summer on the shoots of the current year. Shoots are cut off for the winter. The cultivars are obtained from the crossing of C. violet (C. viticella) with forms and cultivars of other groups.

Lanuginose

- shrub vines with thin shoots up to 2.5 m long. The flowers are large, wide open, mostly light in color (white, blue, pink). They are distinguished by massive flowering on the shoots of the previous year. When pruning shoots in the fall of the next year, flowering begins in the second half of summer on the shoots of the current year.

Patens

- shrub vines 3-3.5 m long. Flowers are open, single, up to 15 cm in diameter or more, color from light to bright blue-violet-purple, deep violet tones. Many varieties have double flowers. Blooming on shoots last year. Shoots in the fall should only be shortened, removing the faded part, and covered until spring. Varieties from spreading clematis (C. patens) with varieties and species of other groups.

Floridbut

- shrub vines with shoots up to 3 m long. The flowers are open, of various colors, but light colors prevail. Blooming on shoots last year. They should be shortened to 1.5-2 m in length and kept under cover during the winter.

If you cut them off completely, then a rather weak flowering occurs only from the second half of summer on the shoots of the current year. The varieties were obtained by crossing the flowering clematis (C. florida) with species and varieties of other groups.

Integrifolia

- vigorous, climbing semi-shrubs up to 1.5 m high. The flowers are half-open, bell-shaped, up to 12 cm in diameter, of various colors. Bloom profusely in summer on the shoots of the current year. Shoots are cut for the winter. The varieties are obtained from whole-leaf clematis (C.integrifolia) when crossed with other species and varieties. Many interesting, profusely flowering hybrids of this group were created in the Nikitsky Botanical Garden by A.N. Volosenko-Valenis and M.A.Beskaravaynaya.

• Depending on the size of the flower, there are small-flowered (up to 5 cm in diameter) and large-flowered (more than 5 cm in diameter) clematis. Large-flowered curly clematis include varieties and forms from the Jacqueman, Viticella, Lanuginoza, Patens groups.
• For bush large-flowered clematis - varieties and forms from the Integrifolia group.
• Large-flowered clematis are considered especially beautiful and graceful, but small-flowered ones are no less good, moreover, they are very undemanding to growing conditions, give a lot of greenery and easily propagate by seeds.

Small-flowered clematis are unusually graceful, they bloom abundantly, and the original seed heads adorn the plant in autumn.

Choosing a variety of Clematis for the Moscow region with a photo

For planting in the North-Western regions of the European part of the country, Siberia, the Far East, where the summer is relatively short and the frosts are fair in winter, it is better to choose early and mid-early varieties from the Jacquemann, Viticella and Integrifolia groups, which bloom profusely on the shoots of the current year:

• Ville de Lyon,
• Japsi Queen,
• Victoria,
• Star of India,
• Luther Burbank,
• Hagley Hybrid,
• Madame Baron Vilar,
• Blue flame,
• Alexandrite,
• Golden Jubilee,

Alyonushka, Silver Stream, Polish Varshavyanka, Victory Salute. Anastasia Anisimova. Cosmic Melody. Huldin, Rouge Cardinal, Gray Bird, Cloud, AnEre Le-Roi. Lilac Star, Niobe ...

1. However, there are hybrids from the Zhakman group that are more suitable for the south: Elegy, Alpinist, Biryuzinka. Openwork.
2. In the north, these varieties bloom poorer over the years, although the mass of shoots increases. Clematis of the Lanuginoza groups, Patens, Florida (their first flowering occurs on the shoots of last year) are less winter-hardy and require shelter of vines even in the middle lane.
3. However, the varieties Madame Van Hutte, Losoniana, Nelly Moser, Stone Flower, Ramona, Lazurshtern, Ball of Flowers, Nadezhda, V.E. Gladstone, Mrs. Hope, Mrs. Cholmondeli, and in such inhospitable conditions, flaunt the sophistication of shapes and colors.
4. In the southern regions, clematis with double flowers bloom profusely: Madame Bajjun, Daniel Deronda, Jeanne d'Arc, Lord Neville. In the middle lane, these varieties will have terry only the first flowers on overwintered last year's shoots.

Species clematis

They know less, although many of them are not only quite effective, but also unpretentious, grow quickly, and are resistant to drought and fungal diseases. The average duration of flowering of small-flowered clematis ranges from 2-2.5 weeks to 3-4 months, the record holders include eastern, Texas, Tangut clematis, and Peter's clematis and mustachioed Balearic bloom in the south of the country even in winter.

In addition to these advantages, some of them have a wonderful aroma: almonds - Armand's and David's clematis, burning; primroses - straight clematis, Manchurian, Redera; jasmine - paniculata clematis.

Location

clematis are light-loving plants. If there is not enough light, not only will you not achieve good flowering, you may not even wait for it at all. Therefore, in the middle lane, it is best to plant them in sunny or slightly shaded areas at midday. Only in the southern regions, where clematis often suffer from overheating of the soil, are they planted in partial shade.

For group plantings, each plant should receive enough light, and the distance between the bushes should be at least 1 meter. The wind is a terrible enemy of clematis not only in summer, but also in winter: it breaks and confuses shoots, damages flowers. Where snow is blown off in winter, planting clematis is not a good idea. And in the lowlands, where cold air accumulates, clematis feel uncomfortable.

Clematis are very demanding on moisture: during their growth, they need abundant watering. At the same time, wet, swampy areas with a high standing of groundwater (less than 1.2 times are not suitable for them, even if the water stagnates only for a short time. Waterlogging of the soil is dangerous not only in summer, but also in early spring during and after snow melting. planting clematis, you need to think about the natural outflow of water from the bush: add earth, plant bushes on ridges or dig slopes with a slope.

The soil

Clematis prefer fertile sandy loam or loamy soil, rich in humus, loose, from slightly alkaline to slightly acidic reaction.

Landing

since clematis can grow in one place for more than 20 years, they prepare the ground very deeply in advance. Usually, holes are dug with a size of at least 60x60x60 cm, and for group plantings, the site is prepared over the entire area.

• 2-3 buckets of humus or compost, 1 bucket of peat and sand, 100-150 g of superphosphate, 200 g of complete mineral fertilizer, preferably 100 g of bone meal, 150 -200 g of lime or chalk, 200 g of ash.
• On light soils, more peat, leaf humus and clay are added.
• If the soil on the site is wet, dense or clayey, then a 10-1 5-cm layer of crushed stone, broken brick or coarse sand is poured onto the bottom of the pit. Thoroughly mixed earthen mixture is poured into the pit and compacted.

In the southern regions, it is preferable to do this in autumn (from late September to early November; in the middle lane the best time is September (in warm weather - and later); even further north, clematis are planted in spring (late April - May) or early autumn. Plants in containers can be planted whenever you want (except for winter, of course).

Support

A solid, rigid support is installed in the center of the pit. A stretched rope is not suitable here, it will not protect young fragile whips from gusts of wind. Having covered the hole with soil about half, they make a mound on which the roots of clematis are spread to the sides and down. Holding the plant with your hand, pour the mixture to the roots, making sure that the clematis is planted deeply.

• Only then will he develop a tillering center, on which new buds are subsequently laid, shoots and roots are formed.
• Such bushes better tolerate severe winters, suffer less from heat. Clematis planted flush with the surface are short-lived: they do not bush, grow in 1-2 stems, their root system suffers from soaking.
• The larger the seedling, the deeper the planting should be.Young one-two-year-old plants are buried by 8-12 cm and the lower pair of buds, more mature and divided bushes - by 12-18 cm.
• If clematis is planted in the spring, then the planting pit is not filled with earth to the brim, but left 5-8 cm uncovered so that the “newcomer” does not “suffocate”.

As the shoots become lignified, this space is gradually filled with soil. After planting, clematis is watered abundantly, shaded from the sun, and the surface of the earth around the plant is mulched with peat. When planting in the fall, the earth is poured to the edges, the entire aboveground part is cut off to the soil level or slightly higher.

Requirements. to the planting material

in autumn planting, clematis should have developed vegetative buds, in spring planting - at least one shoot. The seedlings must have a minimum of 3 roots less than 10 cm long. Plants with a weak root system are placed in a “school” for growing. Use only healthy planting material (the roots of the seedlings should be elastic, without visible damage, swelling and thickening).

Support

are of great importance for the normal development, abundant and prolonged flowering of clematis. It is important that they are not only practical and comfortable for the plant, but also beautiful. As a supporting structure, galvanized pipes with a diameter of 3/4 inch are used. Wooden lattices impregnated with linseed oil or stain, a strongly stretched mesh made of nylon rope or thick fishing line with a mesh of 15x15 cm go well with them.

Supports for clematis are often bushes of weigela, chubushnik, forsythia.

Vines cling to them, rise up, hang freely, and in the second half of summer the bushes hide under garlands of flowers. Screens and arches are traditionally considered to be excellent supports. Clematis look very impressive on horizontal surfaces. for example, on wire-mesh hoops with a diameter of about 1 m, attached to a galvanized pipe at different heights. All supports are made removable and removed for the winter.

The reddish brick wall is very close to the purple star-shaped flowers of Clematis. However, his lashes need reliable support. To do this, a wire in the form of an extended letter S was pulled on hooks driven into the wall. If you keep running the clematis shoots by the wire all the time, its foliage will soon completely close the support and our "bindweed" will appear in all its glory.

A bamboo fence, braided in the photo on the left with a clematis variety ‘Nelly moser', Or an ordinary picket fence, as in the picture below, will provide the clematis with excellent conditions for climbing exercises. It is only necessary to evenly distribute its shoots over the surface of the fence. It is best to run them between the planks or tie them to them with a cord so that the fence becomes covered with a solid floral carpet faster.

Care

in spring, clematis is spilled with milk of lime (200 g of lime per 10 liters of water per square meter). In dry weather, clematis is watered not often, but abundantly, making sure that the stream of water does not fall into the center of the bush. Clematis are fed at least four times per season after irrigation with full mineral fertilizer with microelements at the rate of 20-40 g per 10 liters of water or a diluted fermented mullein (1:10). Mineral and organic dressings alternate.

In summer, once a month, plants are watered with a weak solution of boric acid (1-2 g) and potassium permanganate (2-3 g per 10 liters of water), and the bushes are also sprayed with urea (0.5 tablespoons per 10 liters of water). Since clematis can suffer from overheating and dryness of the soil, in the spring, after the first watering and loosening of the planting, they should be mulched with peat or humus (in the northern regions) or sawdust (in the southern regions). To protect the soil from overheating and to close the lower part of the shoots, clematis are “knocked out” by lettucers.

In the spring, only for the first time, the vines are directed along the support in the right direction and tied up. Otherwise, the ones growing on the run will intertwine so strongly that no forces will be able to unravel them.Only in the varieties of the Integrifolia group, shoots and leaves are deprived of the ability to twine around supports, therefore they are tied up as they grow all summer. In the fall, before sheltering for the winter, clematis bushes are cut and carefully cleaned of old leaves.

The first two or three years, young specimens require especially careful care: in the fall or early spring, well-rotted manure mixed with any potash and phosphorus fertilizer, as well as wood ash (a handful of each in a bucket of humus) is added to the bushes, liquid fertilizing is done every 10-15 days in small doses.

Pruning

the beauty of clematis largely depends on how correctly pruning is done. The first time the shoots are shortened when planting, this is important for the formation of the aboveground part and the development of the root system. One or two shoots grow from the lower pair of buds left during planting, which must be pinched in the summer. Regulatory pruning is carried out in the summer. To extend flowering, some of the shoots are cut in the spring.

At the beginning of summer, vines can be shortened again to the first vegetative buds, which will give rise to new shoots with buds. Tall varieties such as Gypsy Queen, Luther Burbank, Stone Flower, Ernest Markham have flowers at the top of the bush.

• Here it is worth cutting off several vines at a height of 0.7 to 1.5 m, then they will be covered with buds more evenly. Now about pruning for the winter.
• In the varieties of the Zhakman and Viticella groups, the flowers of which are formed on the shoots of the current year, before the shelter for the winter, the entire aerial part is cut off to a real leaf or to the soil level. Do the same with the varieties of the group.
• Integrifolia and some small-flowered clematis: Manchu, straight, Texas and six-petal. In varieties belonging to the Lanuginoza, Patens and Florida groups, flowers are formed on the shoots of the current year and last year.

Their first flowering occurs in early summer on overwintered shoots. The second is on the shoots of the current year, from mid-summer to autumn. The small-flowered clematis Armanda and mountainous belong to the same company. In the fall, before the bushes of these groups are sheltered for the winter, the vines are removed from the supports, all dry, weak, broken shoots are cut out, and the most developed, strong ones are shortened to 1-1.5 m, bent to the ground or rolled up in a ring and placed at the base of the bush.

Clematis

Open-root clematis can be planted in fall or spring. If the clematis seedlings are in containers, then you can transfer them into the garden at any time of the year, except for winter.
Usually, clematis seedlings are purchased at the age of one to two years; annual seedlings are much cheaper.
Clematis seedlings may have a thin stem 5–20 cm long (it seems dry to many novice growers). Sometimes seedlings are sold without a stem at all, in the form of a bunch of roots with sprouts or with awakened buds.

If clematis seedlings were purchased after the onset of autumn cold weather, dig them in the garden and cover them with earth.

When in the fall it is not possible to plant purchased clematis, postpone planting seedlings until spring. In winter, store them in a cold, frost-free cellar or basement (at a temperature no higher than + 5C). Cover the root system of the seedlings with a slightly damp mixture of sawdust and sand, or other suitable loose soil.

In storage, plants need to be pinched to curb the rapid growth of shoots. Each pinch restrains their growth for 2-3 weeks. The growth rate of shoots depends on the temperature of the seedlings. By spring, clematis germinates strongly in the storage, therefore, after planting in the garden, seedlings with young shoots during the acclimatization period are shaded from the sun (in the first 10 days).
Clematis can withstand frosts down to -6C.

Let's talk more about how to plant and how to grow clematis

The cultivation of clematis usually begins with the acquisition of a one-year-old seedling.How and when to plant it? How to care for clematis in the future?

The best time to plant is early summer, when the danger of late frosts is over. But you can plant it in the fall, a month and a half before real frosts. The seedlings should have enough time to take root.

• It is recommended to plant clematis in a well-lit, wind-protected place.
• These plants thrive on alkaline, neutral or slightly acidic soils. For planting clematis, they dig holes, on heavy soils 70x70x70 cm, on light soils 50x50x50 cm.
• The distance between the pits is from 70 cm to one meter. Clematis cannot stand waterlogging and stagnant water. If the groundwater is close, gravel is placed on the bottom, broken brick with a layer of 10-15 cm.

Before planting clematis, the pits are filled with nutritious soil (fat loose clay is well suited), add 1-2 buckets of humus and 50-100 g of superphosphate or nitrophosphate. Clematis seedlings are buried 6-8 cm, leaving a hole around the plant. The next year, the plants are deepened by another 10-15 cm. The degree of deepening depends on the soil - on heavy soils they deepen less, on light soils more. After planting, the shoots are cut shortly, leaving 2-4 lower buds. After a few weeks, when the shoots have grown, they are pruned again. Vigorous pruning of clematis in the first two years of life promotes better root development.

Soil erosion

After you have planted clematis, water it abundantly; for better access of water and preventing soil erosion, you can make a hole around the plant. It's a good idea to mulch the soil with sawdust or peat. The seedling must be shaded from direct sunlight.

When planting clematis, do not forget about the supports. They need to be installed right now. There are many beautiful fences, grates, ladders on sale. You can make supports yourself, but remember that they must be not only durable, but also attractive in appearance, because lashes of clematis will close them only in the second half of summer. The height of the supports is from 1.5 to 3 meters.

As clematis grows, every 2-3 days, the shoots need to be tied to a support so that the wind does not rip them off.

How to care for clematis

Watering and fertilizing

Clematis is water-loving: it requires abundant three-bucket watering at least once a week, and up to three times in the summer heat. To keep the plant moist enough, dig three pots with a hole in the bottom into the soil around it. They will accumulate water during rain or watering and slowly feed the vine's root system on dry days.

• If the soil is not mulched, you will have to loosen it a day after watering, while weeding the weeds.
• Mulch protects the soil from excessive drying out, weathering and freezing, enriches it with microelements, helps in the fight against weeds.
• Do not neglect this manipulation. Mulch the soil around the clematis with sawdust, peat, or moss.

Several times a season, the plant needs to be fed. In May - with urea (1 tablespoon per bucket of water), from June to August - complex fertilizer for garden flowers at least twice. After the second bloom, provide nourishment for the clematis in winter. To do this, add 1 tablespoon of potassium sulfate and superphosphate to a bucket of water.

Watering

When growing clematis, watering plays an important role. Clematis must be watered abundantly, especially in the first two years after planting. Under three-year-old bushes, you need to pour 2-3 buckets once or twice a week. Proper watering is the key to a beautiful and lush flowering of plants.

For better moisture retention, it is recommended to loosen and mulch the soil near the plants. For mulching, you can use humus, peat, rotted sawdust.

In the first two years, clematis mainly grow horses, few shoots are formed, only 1-3. Single flowers appearing on these shoots are best cut off. Then, with proper, careful care, 5-6 year old bushes will develop dozens of shoots and hundreds of beautiful flowers will bloom on them.

New strength - new shoots

From the third year, clematis are gaining strength, many new shoots grow.By pruning and pinching the shoots during the summer, flowering times can be adjusted. So, if you shorten some of the strong shoots, clematis flowers will appear on the growing new shoots later and the flowering will be longer.

Clematis are very responsive to feeding.

It is recommended to fertilize grown plants once a week. They are fed with full mineral fertilizer (30 g per 10 l of water per 2 sq. M of soil).

Can be fed with wood ash (1 cup per plant). As a fertilizer, mullein is well suited, which is diluted at the rate of ten parts of water for one part of manure.

Plant calendula or marigold bushes at the roots of clematis. These plants secrete substances that repel pests. In addition, they will protect the clematis roots from overheating.

Shelter of clematis for the winter

Clematis are natives of the warmest places of the globe, so they need shelter for the winter. In late autumn, all clematis are pruned, but pruned in different ways, depending on which group the variety belongs to.

So clematis from the Florida, Patens, Lanuginoza groups, whose flowers are formed on last year's shoots, are cut off by one third after the first frost, and then the vines of the plants are placed in rings on the ground and are well covered. The next year, in the first half of summer, large flowers will bloom on these shoots, later flowers will appear on the shoots of the current year.

And those clematis, the flowers of which are formed on annual shoots, for example, in the varieties of the Zhakman and Vititsella group, must be cut off in the fall, leaving hemp with 2-3 nodes.

After that, the plants are covered with boards, boxes, covered with earth, leaves, spruce branches, sawdust, rotted manure, weathered peat with a layer of 20-30 cm. And when snow falls, it must be thrown on top.

Lay down, covering with leaves

Some growers do not cut the vines, but lay them on the ground, cover the lower part with fallen leaves, crushed peat, dry inflorescences of large perennials about 20 centimeters thick. On such plants, lashes up to half a meter long with live buds are preserved. In the spring, they remove the shelter, cut off the dead parts of the vines.

• Then lateral shoots begin to develop faster, which bloom profusely all summer.
• Currently, varieties of frost-resistant clematis have been developed, blooming on last year's shoots. These are clematis: alpine, large-petal, Siberian, mountain.
• For such varieties, pruning is not necessary and they can winter without shelter in the middle lane. Siberian Clematis also withstands colder wintering, up to -30 degrees.

In the fall, it must be remembered that too dense shelter prevents ventilation, and plants can die from this.

Clematis in the spring

In spring, one should not rush to open clematis: intermittent frosts and bright sun have a detrimental effect on the kidneys. And when the danger of spring frosts has passed, the shelter is removed, after which the clematis are fed with nitrogen fertilizers, for example, urea - 40 g per 10 liters of water. On acidic soils, clematis is watered with milk of lime (200 g of slaked lime per 10 liters of water per 1 square meter of soil).

Requirements

For the successful cultivation of clematis, it is imperative to considera number of requirements this culture. Clematis are photophilous and prefer sunny places protected from the wind. The soil should be permeable, loamy, slightly alkaline (calcareous) or neutral, fertile, well fertilized and loose. Saline, damp, heavy, acidic soils are unsuitable for clematis. Please note that fresh manure and sour peat harm clematis.

Clematis does not tolerate nearby groundwater. In this case, plant the plants on a mound (on additionally filled soil), otherwise the roots of clematis, reaching a length of 1 meter or more, will rot.

If the soil in the garden is clay, from the clematis planting site, make a drainage groove to drain excess water and cover it with sand.At the bottom of the planting pit (60x60x60 cm in size), lay a layer of rubble 10-15 cm, perlite, etc. for drainage.

The soil

Completely replace the infertile soil layer extracted from the pit with fertile soil with the addition of humus (humus from the Californian worm, well-rotted compost).

• Also add 150 g of superphosphate and 200 g of lime, or 400 g of dolomite flour to the substrate, mix everything thoroughly.
• It is advisable to prepare the soil a year before planting the seedlings so that it can be neutralized with lime material and settle well.
• Install supports before planting clematisfor vines (preferably removable for the winter) with a height of 2-2.5 meters. The support system should provide support for the vines in strong winds.

Never plant clematis close to a wall or fence, there should always be a space of 10–20 cm between them. At the very wall, the soil is usually very dry, and this, as a rule, leads to poor growth, rare flowering and plant death. When planting clematis near the house, install supports for them at least 30 cm from the wall. The water flowing down from the roof should not fall on the vines.

Landing

After the preparation of fertile soil, planting pits and the installation of supports,planting clematis... If the roots of the seedling are dry, soak the plant in cold water for several hours before planting. At the bottom of the planting pit, pour a bump of earth, put a clematis seedling on it and straighten it, evenly distribute its roots over the bump.

• Cover all the roots, the root collar of the seedling and the stem (if any) up to 5–10 cm with earth, making a depression to prevent water spreading during irrigation.
• If you are planting clematis in the spring, then cover it with earth up to the first internode. Abundantlypour a bucket of water.
• Until autumn, gradually add fertile soil so that the depression is filled up.

When planting clematis in the fall in the spring, you can remove part of the soil from the plants themselves, and add soil until autumn. This should be done to facilitate the emergence of shoots, weakened after plant transplantation, to the soil surface.

Landing

Choose a "cozy" place on your site. There should be no strong wind here. It is advisable to take the place well lit. Clematis belongs to the vines, which means that he will need support. However, do not rush to plant a clematis plant near the wall of the house - the water dripping from the roof is extremely unfavorable for this gentle garden dweller. Retreat at least 30 cm from the walls of the building or fence. Remember that the flowers of the plant will unfold to the south, southeast.

The roots of an adult plant reach 1 m in depth, but they do not like swampy soil. If your site is located in a lowland, in the immediate vicinity of groundwater, you will have to fill in a mound in advance to raise the planting. When the place is chosen, dig a hole 60x60x60 cm. At the bottom, fill a layer of drainage 10-15 cm thick. For this, broken brick, crushed stone, expanded clay, foam are suitable. Then lay a layer of soil 5 cm thick. Next, fill the hole with nutrient mixture with the addition of 200 g of garden lime.

Now prepare a hole under the seedling clod, 10 cm deep more than the height of the clod itself. At the bottom, form a slide and lower the seedling, gently spreading the roots around it. Fill the remaining depression with soil to the level of the landscape. If the top of the plant loves sunlight, then the roots are shaded. Therefore, it is recommended to plant a cover plant within a radius of 1 m from clematis. Pansies and lobelia work well for this. These flowers will protect the soil from drying out and will not compete with the vine for nutrients, not to mention their aesthetic beauty.

Support

Select and install a vine support immediately after planting. Supports can be homemade - one or three bamboo or walnut rods connected by a pyramid. In garden centers, more decorative models are presented in the form of arches or metal nets in different versions.Place the first shoots on a support by hand, straighten and tie them up. Subsequently, the plants will cling to themselves due to the peculiarities of the structure of their stems.

In the first two years after planting, the shoots will grow slowly. Do not worry, this is due to the fact that at first clematis grows the root system, and only in the third year - the aerial part. But with the beginning of active growth, young branches can add up to 10-15 cm per day, reaching 2-4.5 m per season.

Clematis care includes:

• regular deep watering (at least 1 time per week, and in extreme heat - 2-3 times);
• loosening the soil (if it is not mulched);
• weed removal;
• top dressing (preferably organic) during the growing season - about 2 times a month.

In the first year after planting, clematis seedlings do not need to be fertilized. Further fertilize them in the same way as regular perennial flowers. Top dressing of clematis with "Strawberry Concentrate" showed good results. A suitable top dressing is water in which unsalted meat or fish has been washed.
Every spring, water clematis with milk of lime (dolomite flour, chalk) and a solution containing copper (one tablespoon per bucket of water).
Good results are obtained by dusting the lower part of the vines with wood ash after rain - this prevents clematis shoots from withering during frequent rains, especially on heavy soils. On light soils, wilt of clematis is rarely observed.

Formation

Clematis vines reach the greatest decorativeness at the age of 3-7 years.
After the age of seven, the flowers of clematis begin to shrink due to the lack of fertilizers and water, because in the heat, in the absence of good rains, irrigation water no longer penetrates deep to the roots (they reach a length of 60–70 cm or more). To prevent this from happening, you can dig 3-4 pots with a hole in the bottom around the clematis bush. When watering the plants, the pots are filled with water, which does not spread anywhere and penetrates deeply.

Clematis also suffer from overheating of the soil, and therefore mulch the ground around them with humus or moss. At the base of the vines, plant low-growing plants, for example, "marigolds" -calendula, which will also serve as protection of clematis from nematodes.

You can plant clematis on lawns, then the grass will protect the roots of the vines from the sun and overheating.

Almost all common varieties of clematis climb themselves to the support with the help of twisted or bifurcated leaf antennae, petioles. However, be sure to tie up young clematis once in the spring. To increase the decorativeness of the plant, direct some of the shoots in the right direction, first in the horizontal direction. Directional shoots will bloom below the main body of the plant. But bend the stems of the clematis very carefully, since the young green shoots are very brittle. During a warm evening and night, the shoots lengthen by 5–10 cm or more.
A clematis seedling grows 1-5 shoots over the summer, and in some varieties - up to 30. In the fall, before the onset of frost, cut the stems of the vines.

Wintering

Depending on the variety, clematis winter in different ways. They are divided into three groups: those that do not require cutting off the shoots, that require cutting at a height of about 1 meter, and that require cutting at a height of 10-15 cm from the ground. This nuance must be graphically indicated on the package with the plant. Clematis do not freeze down to -6 ° C, in central Russia they require shelter.

• If your variety needs to prune shoots at a height of 1 meter, after pruning, carefully remove them from the support, twist them into a ring and lay them on the base of the stem.
• Sprinkle the plant with sawdust or leaves, cover with a wooden box without a bottom (such as in which fruit is sold in the markets), and on top - with a film, tar paper or roofing felt, pressing down their edges with stones.
• Do not cover the clematis too tightly, otherwise it may overheat.

In the spring, clematis does not show signs of activity for a long time, even if it tolerated the cold well.In this case, many novice gardeners make the mistake of digging up the plant and examining the roots. Liana does not like this very much, she does not tolerate any anxiety. Continue your routine, be sure to feed with urea in May, and be patient. Shoots will certainly appear when the time is right.

Wintering

with proper shelter, clematis bushes can withstand frosts up to 40-45 °, however, the main danger in winter and early spring is not frost, but waterlogging of the soil. In addition, after frequent thaws during the day and night frosts, layers of ice can form above the soil, which can break the roots and destroy the center of tillering.Therefore, it is important to completely exclude the ingress of water in winter to the soil surface and the base of the bush.

They cover the bushes when frosty weather sets in, the air temperature drops to minus 5-7 ″ and the soil begins to freeze. In the middle lane, this falls on November. The bushes of the Zhakman, Vititsella and Integrifolia groups cut into one or two pairs of buds (10-15 cm) or to ground level are covered with dry earth or weathered peat, a mound with a diameter of 60-80 cm is formed above the plant.

Each plant takes about 3-4 buckets. Together with snow, such a shelter will reliably protect the root system of clematis from freezing.

If you need to preserve the lashes in the varieties of the Lanuginoza, Patens and Florida groups, in addition to dry land, the bushes are covered with boards, spruce branches, and on top with pieces of roofing material or sheets of old iron. If the frosts are too strong or there is little snow, it is added to the bushes additionally. In the spring, the shelter is removed gradually, part of the peat is left until the night frosts are gone.

Pruning

is necessary for clematis to obtain long-term and abundant flowering, control flowering times, biological renewal of the bush and harmonious spatial distribution of shoots.
The degree of pruning depends on the difference in the biological properties of clematis from different taxonomic groups.

Depending on the characteristics of pruning and the intensity of flowering, clematis are combined into three groups. According to the new classification, there is no distinction between types of clematis in large-flowered varieties; they are now divided only by the cutting method into three groups:

First group pruningand or group A

- unites clematis, in which flowers are formed on the shoots of the previous year. On the shoots of the current year, flowers sometimes appear in small quantities. This group includes species and varieties of clematis from the former groups of Atragene, Montana, etc., which are grown without pruning (or after flowering, the generative part of the shoot is cut off). If the bush is very dense, then some of the faded, weaker shoots are cut to the base. This contributes to the development of more vital shoots of the current year, which will bloom next year.
Before sheltering for the winter in clematis of group A, only the generative (flowering) part of the shoots of the current year is cut off and weak shoots are completely cut out.

Second trim group or group B

- unites clematis, in which flowers develop both on the shoots of the current year and on last year's shoots. These include the former groups of clematis Lanuginosa, Florida, Patens and some varieties with characteristics similar to these groups. These clematis have early flowering in late May-June on the shoots of the previous year. The flowers are large, often double or semi-double; flowering time is short.

The second, or summer, flowering of clematis occurs on the shoots of the current year, it is abundant - it begins in July and continues until autumn.
To get a long flowering of these clematis, they are pruned in two steps. First, in the summer, the generative (flowering) part of the shoot of the previous year is cut off after flowering; if the bush is very dense, the entire shoot is cut out.
Shoots of the current year are pruned before clematis shelter for the winter.

Depending on the density of the bush or to get early flowering next year, a different degree of pruning is used. Only the generative part of the current year's shoot is removed if they want to achieve early flowering. Medium pruning (up to the first true leaf) and strong (removal of the entire shoot) are used when adjusting the number of shoots and for uniform flowering of group B clematis in the next year.

Third group pruningand or group C

- unites clematis, in which the bulk of flowers are formed on the shoots of the current year (former groups Jackmanii, Viticella and their hybrids). They bloom from July to mid-September; the maximum flowering is observed at the end of July - in August. Pruning this group of clematis is very simple: before sheltering for the winter, cut off all the shoots to the first true leaf (you can leave more buds)or to the bottom.

After the autumn pruning of clematis, they are carried outshelter before wintering.

Clematis of the third pruning group

in the fall, cut the shoots to the first bud, counting from the ground, or, as a last resort, in early spring (but then the bushes will be more difficult to cover for the winter). Cover them lightly before wintering. For a winter shelter, it is enough to overlay the base of the clematis bush with woody leaves, placing spruce paws or "dog" mint under the leaves to protect the shoots from damage by rodents. Cover the top of the shelter with a piece of whole plastic wrap, shading it from the sun. The winter shelter of clematis should be loose, but thick enough.

Clematis have the second and first trimming groups

 you can leave some of the shoots, cutting them at a height of 70-100 cm to large ripe buds. If there are no such buds (and this can happen during a cold short summer), then the shoots must be cut to the level of the soil or the lower part of the shoots 20–30 cm long should be left. more often this happens after a cold summer, when they do not have time to ripen.

• For clematis of the second and third pruning groups, cut off the leaves on the remaining vine and lay it on spruce paws or on "dog" mint, or just on the ground. The shoots left in the spring can be used to propagate clematis by layering. Sprinkle dry leaves on top of the shoots, put wooden shields on the leaves.
• Place bricks or any other suitable material underneath to prevent snow shields from falling on the ground. Lay a whole plastic wrap on top of the shields.
  You can do it differently: put shields on bricks, lay dry leaves on the shields, and a whole plastic wrap on top of the leaves.
• This method will require more leaves, and from the severity of the snow, the leaves are caked, which means that part of the thermal insulation is lost. But on the other hand, with this method of shelter, there are not many mouse nests under the shields. Mice use clematis shoots for nests, and the water rat eats the inside of the shoots.

Temperature

Shoots of clematis are afraid not so much of frost as of wet and cold weather, icing. Therefore, it is important to keep the clematis shoots dry in winter.
But with excessive cover, the shoots can get out.
It is also very important in the spring to remove the shelter from clematis in time.

Never use sawdust to cover clematis - they get wet, freeze, thaw very slowly in spring (because of this, in spring it is impossible to remove the shelter in time), which can lead to damping of plants.

• Next year, on the left and overwintered shoots of clematis, flowers will appear 20-30 days earlier than on the shoots of the current year. And in some varieties, flowers can even be semi-double.
  Some clematis (Jackmanii, Viticella) tolerate severe frosts - up to -40C (MA Beskaravaynaya).
• But this only applies to the underground part of the plant. The soil temperature rarely drops below critical, and it is always much higher than the air temperature (especially if the ground is covered with at least a thin layer of snow).
• In urban conditions, during thaws, snow melts faster than in fields.

Clematis that are not sheltered for the winter are damaged by sudden changes in temperature and humidity. The least hardy root collar of clematis. If an uncovered vine is on the surface, then its bark cracks from frost; during a thaw, moisture gets under the bark, which freezes and expands the cracks even more.
Many varieties and hybrids of clematis in the fall, before the ground freezes, sprouts underground from the root collar, which do not break through to the soil surface until warm spring days. These sprouts can suffer from winter frosts.

Reproduction of clematis

can be done in several ways, the simplest of which are:

• division of bushes;
• spring pinning of shoots;
• reproduction by autumn and summer layering;

Division of bushes

clematis is carried out at the age of no older than 6-7 years. Later, it is very difficult to do this because of the developed powerful root system, which breaks off strongly. Dig up the clematis bushes, free them from the ground and cut them into pieces with a pruner or knife so that each plant has buds on the root collar.

• For breeding clematisautumn layering in October, cut off all the leaves from the shoots, the faded part to a well-developed bud. Tie the shoots neatly into a bundle (you can use a ring, as space permits), put them in the grooves.
• Pour a layer of peat under the tourniquet and on top (peat by its nature is a very moisture-absorbing material, retains moisture for a long time and allows air to pass through well), and then compact the earth and soil, cover the whole plant well.
• Water often and abundantly for the next year. After the sprouts appear, mulch the soil surface with humus, moss, peat. By autumn, most of the young plants that have emerged are ready for planting. Only well-developed clematis buds grow.
• Roots are formed throughout the shoot, but the largest number of roots are located under the buds. It is better to dig out the plants with a pitchfork - the roots are less damaged.
  Layers for propagation can be laid in prepared grooves in spring, but then it is more difficult to keep the shoots in winter.

Better to spend in the springpinning shoots of clematis in pots with soil. The essence of this method is that last year's clematis shoots are pinned at the site of the knot into pots prepared in advance and dug into the ground, which are filled with very loose soil with peat. The pots should be buried in the soil below its level so that the water does not spread during watering. Gradually, as the seedling grows, moisture-absorbing soil is poured in the form of a tubercle. By the fall, high-quality clematis seedlings grow from the pinned shoots.

Summer layering

it is most convenient to propagate clematis in a vertical way. To do this, in the spring, put a box without a bottom on a growing plant. As clematis shoots grow, pour light fertile soil into the box until it is almost filled to the top. However, it is always necessary to leave the upper part of the shoot with well-developed two buds uncovered, otherwise the covered young shoots of clematis will stop growing.

Water the soil frequently and abundantly. With good care, by the fall, some of the well-developed clematis will be ready for planting in the ground (the rest require growing, since they have a weak root system). Keep weak plants buried in the basement in winter.

Fascination of numbers

Clematis can be propagated in three ways: by seed, by rooted layering and by dividing the rhizome. The seeds are treated with a rooting stimulant and planted on seedlings. For the first year, you can plant them in the ground for insulation. The seedlings have no peculiarities of care.

• You can propagate clematis by layering. To do this, select a section of the stem with an internode, leave one or two nearby leaves and plant it in a hole, deepening the internode into the ground.
• In the first year, the plant can also be planted under insulation, and the next year, it can be planted in a permanent place.
• The root of an adult, but not older than seven years, clematis can be cut into pieces with a sharp secateurs and planted.

As you can see, clematis is not as difficult to grow as many people think. But in their decorativeness, they are superior to many other plants. Abundant flowering will delight you twice a summer, and luscious greenery - a whole season, if you give the liana enough attention and love.

Choosing distribution methods

There are several ways to propagate clematis: by seeds, layering, cuttings and dividing the bush.

Clematis from seeds appear at different times. After sowing the seeds, do not be upset if they do not sprout from you in the same summer. The seeds of some varieties of clematis germinate only in the second and even in the third year, and sometimes even later. It is useful to water such crops in the summer after 2-3 weeks with a weak solution of boric acid (1-2 grams per bucket) and potassium permanganate (2-3 grams per bucket).

When clematis is propagated by layering, a young shoot 20-30 cm long must be bent to the ground and laid in a groove 5-10 cm deep.In the places of internodes, pin the shoot with wire brackets or press with pebbles and cover it all with earth, leaving a free top with several leaves. As the shoot grows, fill in new internodes, leaving only its tip above the soil. Remember to water the soil regularly and abundantly.

Leave the rooted shoot of clematis in place for the winter. And in the spring, cut the lashes between the knots and plant the plants in a permanent place.

Reproduction of clematis by cuttings is also possible. Cuttings with one or two internodes should be cut at the beginning of flowering plants from the middle part of the vine, leaving 2 cm above the node and 3-4 cm below.To accelerate root formation, place the cuttings for 16-24 hours in an aqueous solution of heteroauxin (50-75 grams for 1 liter of water).

Cuttings

Plant the cuttings of clematis obliquely in boxes or containers in washed sand, peat or a mixture of sand and peat in equal parts. At a temperature of 20-25 degrees, cuttings root better, so spoil the container with a film and put it in a greenhouse or greenhouse. It is very useful to spray the cuttings during the rooting process.

Depending on the variety of clematis and the conditions created, the cuttings take root in a month or two. After that, they need to be transplanted into pots with nutrient soil. If it is too late to plant seedlings in the ground, keep the plants in a room with a low temperature of + 2-7 degrees during the winter. Water sparingly, but be careful not to dry out the ground. In the spring of next year, clematis seedlings are suitable for planting in a permanent place. Plants from cuttings, rooted in summer, will bloom by the fall of next year.

Fertilization

small-flowered clematis propagate, as a rule,seeds... Large-flowered are bred exclusively vegetatively. The easiest way to do this is by dividing the bush. In varieties with a high tillering ability (Anastasia, Anisimova, Zhanna d'Arc, Hagley Hybrid, Madame Baron Villard, Cosmic Melody), the division of the bush is used for rejuvenation, since very dense bushes, even with good care, often lose their decorative effect.

Clematis can be divided both in the fall and in the spring, until the buds have started to grow or have just begun to swell.

However, if in the fall this operation is almost painless for plants, since the buds are only marked and small, then in the spring time it is necessary to meet extremely short periods of time (from the moment the soil thaws to the beginning of growth), since it is easy to damage the rapidly growing shoots. Clematis, divided in spring, will be about 2-3 weeks behind in growth compared to its autumn counterpart. In an adult 5-8-year-old plant that has a sufficient number of shoots, the ground part is cut off, leaving only 2-3 pairs of buds below.

Dig up with a clod of earth

The bush is carefully dug out with a clod of earth, taking care not to damage the long cord-like roots.If the soil is not easily shaken off, the roots are washed with water from a hose. Then with a knife it is divided through the center of the bush into independent plants. They work without haste, carefully, making sure that each section has enough roots and at least one shoot with buds.

However, you can do without digging. On one side of the bush, a trench 50-70 cm deep is torn off, and the bayonet of the shovel is buried in the soil radially to the center of the bush in order to damage as few roots as possible.

At a half-dug bush, shoots with roots are separated with a tool, each of which will become an independent plant. Before planting, the delenki are examined, only healthy ones are used. The roots are pruned and disinfected in a pink solution of potassium permanganate.

Layers

It is quite easy to propagate your favorite variety by layering. There are several techniques. Here is the first one. The bush is sprinkled with peat or humus along the bottom 2-3 pairs of leaves. Within a year or two, the lower nodes of the shoots are overgrown with their own roots. Having removed the poured substrate, the rooted shoots are cut off from the mother plant and planted.

• This method is good because the bush itself is not injured. The second method requires some free space.
• In late summer or autumn, grooves 8-10 cm deep are dug around the bush in the radial direction. Clematis shoots with well-formed buds are removed from the support, laid out in grooves one at a time, pressing them to the ground with staples made of thick wire, and sprinkled with loose nutrient soil.
• The top of the shoot (20 cm) is taken out. You can do the same with a vine rolled around the base of the bush and covered for the winter.

In the spring, when the plant is freed from the shelter, one or more of these lashes are laid in a groove. Layers are regularly watered and fed during the summer. From almost all covered buds, vertical shoots begin to grow, and rooting occurs at each node.

It is best to separate rooted shoots from the bush in the fall of next year or in the spring of a year later. By this time, each new shoot will have a good root system. From one sprinkled lash in a year or two, you can get up to 10 seedlings that do not need growing, the bush itself does not suffer. Another way of vegetative propagation isgreen cuttings.

The name of this dazzling, climbing perennial is translated as "vine shoot" or "forest grapes". The plant is a close relative of the common, unremarkable buttercup. The topic of this article is clematis. You will learn the secrets of planting and growing plants outdoors. And you can also choose a suitable crop variety.

Varieties and varieties of clematis

The genus of clematis (Clematis) has a huge number of species (according to some sources up to 380), which are usually classified according to pruning groups.

Several clematis bushes can create a flowering hedge along the entire fence

Clematis is divided into types and varieties as follows:

• 1 group. The formation of flower buds occurs on the shoots of the current year;
• Group 2. The formation of flower buds occurs on the shoots of the last year.

Any pruning stimulates plants to new shoots, branching and abundant flowering. Photos of flowering clematis bushes attract and fascinate: you can look at them for hours, wondering at the variety of flowers.

Clematis have a huge number of species, which are subdivided into:

1. Herbaceous perennial vines - at the end of the growing season, the shoots completely die off.
2. Semi-shrubs - the upper part of the bush dies off annually, the lower (bush) remains for many years.
3. Shrubs - the plant forms a large lignified stem that hibernates well without pruning.

Outdoor clematis is usually divided into wild species, small and large-flowered, climbing and bush. Wild clematis are the progenitors of modern cultivars.

Curly large-flowered clematis

The natural habitat of wild plant species is a temperate climate, where they thrive and bloom with small flowers. The color of flowers in wild species of clematis is limited to white, all tones of yellow and blue. Occasionally, there are individuals with small reddish or purple flowers up to 4 cm in diameter.

A rich collection of clematis (clematis) of natural species (over 200 species and forms) is preserved in the Nikitsky Botanical Garden in Crimea.

Hybrid clematis (C. hybrida hort.)

These are powerful perennial vines or semi-shrubs, reaching a height of 3 m, which cling to the support with leaf petioles and stems. Single flowers are collected in inflorescences, the diameter of one flower can reach 20 cm. After flowering, decorative clematis form rounded pubescent fruits.

Hybrid variety of clematis "Alexandrite" with very large flowers

Juicy, green, dissected leaves are beautiful on their own, but during the flowering period, when the liana resembles a blooming fire, the plant looks very decorative. Clematis need to provide a sunny and sheltered place. In addition, the plant will need a solid support, since the weight of an adult plant with flowers and leaves can be over 100 kg.

Large-flowered clematis

The cultivation of large-flowered varieties is due to the high decorativeness of clematis of this group. The size of the flower in the dissolution reaches 20 cm. Various colors - juicy and bright - add decorativeness to these plants. Therefore, large-flowered varieties of clematis are popular when grown outdoors, and are often used to create compositions in landscape design.

This group of flowering plants is subdivided into several subgroups with significant differences in vegetation.

Clematis Jacqueman

Zhakman - large vines, sometimes semi-shrubs. Shoots reach a length of 4 m. The plant develops a powerful, branched root system with strong and long roots. Jacqueman's clematis bloom in large, odorless flowers. They are characterized by a bright color of blue-violet, white and purple tones. Flowering is long; flowers appear on the shoots of the current year. These vines are pruned short in preparation for the winter.

Important! When pruning Zhakman clematis in the fall, you need to leave 2-3 pairs of lower buds.

Clematis Viticella "Red"

Viticella - length 3.5 m. Wide open flowers are painted in pinkish and purple tones. Flowering on the shoots of the current year is characterized by high decorativeness and duration. Winter pruning required. When planted outdoors, Clematis Viticella is in perfect harmony with the varieties of other groups.

Clematis lanuginosa "Marie Boisselot"

Lanuginose - thin lashes of these liana-like shrubs climb on supports up to 2.5 m high. Plants of this subgroup are distinguished by friendly flowering on last year's shoots. Amicably and massively, a cascade of single flowers of delicate blue, pink and white tones with shades is revealed. Pruning clematis in the fall of this year. Next year, the vines will bloom in late summer, already on the shoots of the current year.

Clematis patens "Rebecca"

Patens - ligneous vines. In length, plants of this subgroup reach 3.5 m. Flowers are solitary, in diameter can reach up to 15 cm, painted in different tones. This subgroup includes cultivars with fully double and semi-double flowers. Flowering is observed exclusively on last year's shoots. In autumn, a gentle pruning of the plant is carried out - the lashes are slightly shortened, a reliable shelter for the winter is required.

Clematis Florida

Florida - long bush-type vines. Plants of this group can reach a height of 3 m. Flowering on the shoots of the past year. Large flowers can have completely different colors, but mostly light colors. Pruning is done before winter, the upper part of the plant is cut out, up to about 2 meters.The remaining bush, preparing for wintering, is well insulated.

Clematis Integrifolia

Integrifolia - Clematis of this group reach a height of only 1.5 meters, but at the same time they are characterized by abundant and powerful formation of the skeletal part of the plant. They form many lashes. The flowers are medium in size - up to 12 cm. The color of the petals varies from dark to light tones. Flowering - on the shoots of the last year. Shoots are cut in autumn.

Planting a plant

Planting clematis is a responsible business. It is required to take into account a lot of nuances. The first decade of September is the best time when planting clematis is most preferable.

Important! The culture requires a lot of light for development and abundant flowering, but it is useful to remember that varieties with dark petals in the open sun fade very quickly.

Most varietal clematis requires a support that will support the plant. You can choose a place for planting a plant near the wall of the house, but at the same time it is necessary to ensure the removal of precipitation from the roof to the other side, so that excess water does not cause the roots of clematis to get wet and decay.

Scheme: planting options for clematis

When planting a plant alone, it is necessary to take into account the direction of the prevailing wind, which can harm the plant, especially the young and not matured.

Landing pit

Planting of plants is carried out in square pits, the sides of which are 0.6 m. The depth of the pit is approximately the same. Remove the soil, prepare the planting mixture:

• 2 buckets of humus;
• 1 bucket of peat mixture and coarse sand;
• 100 g double superphosphate (granules);
• 400 g of ash;
• chalk - 200 g.

Important! The acidic soil at the planting site must be neutralized. The culture develops only on alkaline and neutral soils.

For planting, you must first prepare cuttings with a part of the lignified stem and layering.

The process of planting a clematis bush

The pit is filled with a nutrient mixture and a support is placed. The seedling is placed on the ground covered with a mound. The roots must be carefully spread out. Do not cover the root collar with soil. After planting, the plant should be watered, avoiding overflow.

Planting clematis bushes can be carried out at any time, even in summer and spring, but it is preferable to do it in the fall.

Correct care

Caring for clematis includes many agricultural activities, but the most important of them is pruning. By trimming the crop correctly, you can achieve the development of powerful, abundantly flowering plants.

There are varieties of clematis that cannot be cut off. Flower buds of these plants are laid on ripe shoots of the last year. Thickened plantings are thinned out after flowering, leaving shoots of at least 1 m.

Pruning clematis

Pruning of the second group of plants (varieties with large flowers that bloom in spring on the shoots of last year, and then repeat flowering on the growth of the current year) is carried out at the age of 1 year to a height of up to 30 cm, in two-year shoots it is allowed to remove up to 1.5 m of bush shoots ...

Clematis varieties blooming in late summer (Viticella; Late Large-flowered) are heavily pruned. They are pruned low above the ground, no higher than 20-50 cm from the ground.

Important! Before pruning the plant, it is helpful to know what type of clematis belongs to.

Caring for plants during the growing season is reduced to loosening and mulching the soil, weeding, and top dressing. Regular watering is important (in hot weather you need to water abundantly).

Mulching the soil around the clematis bush

In the heat, plants suffer from overheating of the soil, so it is very important to mulch the soil on top of the planting pits.

To support the plants, it is important to install supports that can support the weight of the plant. The supports must be installed so high that the plant has the ability to freely climb up the support.

Fertilizing and feeding clematis

Top dressing of clematis begins after the growth of the green mass. The fertilizer used is nitrogen, which stimulates growth. Watering is combined in time with fertilization.

The second feeding is carried out at the time of plant budding. Phosphorus and potash fertilizers are used.

Clematis require quite frequent mineral feeding.

During the growing season of the plant, about 2 times a month, it is required to fertilize the plants with microelements.

An important event is the autumn fertilization of plants with phosphorus, around September. Double superphosphate (granular) is introduced into the trunk circles.

Important! Overdose of phosphorus fertilizers causes premature aging of the plant and chlorosis.

Plant propagation

Clematis are so beautiful outdoors that you always want to propagate the plant yourself to decorate the site.

The plant is allowed to propagate by seed and vegetative method:

• Division of the bush. This method is suitable for mature, overgrown plants, but not older than 7 years. The bush is dug up, cut into divisions with a part of the root system and buds. It is better to shorten long shoots for better survival of the bush. Plants are planted in accordance with the clematis planting rules.
• Reproduction by shoots. Green shoots with internodes are pinned to the ground in spring, covered with soil. After the formation of the root system, the plants are separated and planted.

Reproduction of clematis by layering

• Summer cuttings. The clematis shoot is passed through a container without a bottom, which is gradually filled with soil. Reproduction of clematis in this way allows you to get a full-fledged plant at no special cost.
• Seed propagation of a crop is used in breeding work to develop new varieties.

Diseases and pests

Clematis is a rather unpretentious plant, but sometimes the culture is attacked by pests. The development of diseases in a plant is often associated with improper care.

The root system of the plant is damaged by bears and moles, gall and root nematodes; leaves and young shoots - snails and slugs. In addition, plants settle on the leaves: aphids, mealybugs, spider mites (especially in hot summers without rain), scale insects.

It is possible to destroy plant pests using special means of dealing with a certain type of pest.

Moles can often disrupt the root system of clematis

Clematis can be affected by the following diseases:

• Powdery mildew - a white coating that covers all parts of the plant. The leaves curl and wither. Treatment: all plants are treated with 0.05 - 0.2% systemic fungicide (caratan). The cut off infected parts of the plant must be burned.
• Withering is a fungal disease that causes the green parts of clematis to wilt quickly. Treatment: treatment with basezol, phytosporin-M, copper oxychloride.
• Rust - a rusty coating appears on the leaves, causing growth retardation and leaf fall. Treatment: spraying with Bordeaux liquid.
• Yellow mosaic is a viral disease characterized by massive yellowing of the leaves. There is no cure, the plants are destroyed.

Yellow mosaic on clematis leaves

Clematis: combination with other plants

Growing clematis in open ground is possible in single plantings, but the combination of clematis vines with other plants increases the decorativeness of clematis vines when decorating territories in landscape design.

An excellent combination of flowering clematis when planted next to climbing roses, barberry, mock orange, forsythia, conifers.

An excellent combination is obtained when planting clematis on the lawn. The bush looks especially decorative when the proper support is installed.

Clematis is a great decoration for a hedge, walls of a house or a gazebo

Clematis in landscape design

Plants are widely used in landscaping. Varietal climates are the priority when planting, which do not require cardinal pruning and shelter for the winter.Looking at photos of European gardens and parks, depicting flowering clematis, you never cease to be amazed at the invention of landscape engineers who come up with interesting solutions to support bushes in the open field.

All about clematis: video

Unsurpassed clematis: photo

Clematis is the brightest, unforgettable liana on Russian sites. If the summer resident only has to "tame" clematis, planting and caring for them in the open field is the key to success.

If everything is done correctly, the plants have been developing and blooming in one place for more than 20 years, annually decorating the house and the backyard with hundreds of simple and double flowers of different colors and shapes.

Choosing a place and preparing for planting clematis in open ground

Preparing for planting begins with choosing the right place. Clematis are photophilous, but under the direct rays of the sun, the liana feels depressed, the flowers fade and shrink.

Plants have an extremely negative attitude to the wind, the proximity of groundwater. Although plants need a lot of moisture for active growth, its stagnation threatens with root rot.

Novice growers are mistaken when clematis are planted in the ground near the wall of the house, where the vine regularly falls under the drain or, due to the lack of access to fresh air, is attacked by pests and pathogenic fungi.

It is best to find a place at a distance of at least 70 cm from the wall, and build a strong lattice, arch or trellis for support. Such a distance from the capital structure will simplify the care of clematis after planting in the open field and protect it from streams of rain and melt water. Since the vines should grow strongly, without lack of nutrition and moisture, a gap of at least 1–1.5 meters is left between individual bushes.

If a multi-row planting is planned, the planting trenches are located from north to south. This will ensure that all plants are evenly and safely illuminated throughout the day.

For a single bush, it is better to choose a place with good morning light.

When is clematis planted in the ground?

The time of transfer of clematis to open ground depends on the selected planting material. Seedlings with an open or peat-packed root system cannot wait long. When to plant clematis in open ground in the spring?

They are planted in the spring, in April or in the first decade of May, before the shoots grow. Delay or summer planting threatens that clematis will enter the soil weakened, its acclimatization will last longer, and sometimes the plant dies.

An early purchased clematis seedling is often grown at home, therefore, by the usual planting time, it already has young shoots. If you take it out into the garden in April, when the main planting of clematis in open ground in the Moscow region is underway, the greens will suffer from frost. Such plants are planted in the second half of May, by which time all natural threats have passed.

Seedlings of clematis with a closed root system tolerate planting without problems during the entire warm period. Shading on hot days will make acclimatization easier and faster.

In autumn, clematis is planted in open ground from August to October. For the time remaining before the onset of cold weather, the plant takes root and adapts to life in the garden. The specific dates of planting depend on the weather and climatic conditions of the region. Late leads to freezing of vines that did not have time to settle down. For the winter, the soil is mulched, and the plants themselves are covered with foliage, spruce branches or dense non-woven material.

Planting clematis in the ground

Choosing the right place for clematis, which grows for a long time without transplanting, is very important. Even more important is the competent organization of the pit for planting clematis in open ground in spring or autumn.

In areas with closely lying groundwater, the danger of flooding, or simply dense heavy soil at the bottom of a trench or pit 60 cm deep, a high drainage is made of expanded clay, crushed red brick, stone chips and sand.Additionally, drainage ditches are equipped, through which excess water can freely leave the flower garden.

Supports for clematis are prepared in advance. In order not to disturb the root system, arches, trellises, mesh or other types of supports are dug in at the same time as planting.

A planting pit for a single clematis is made 60 cm deep and wide. Group planting requires the preparation of a single trench at the rate of one running meter per bush.

A drainage pillow is made at the bottom, and the soil selected from the pit is loosened, cleaned of weeds and mixed in equal parts with humus, peat. It is useful to add fertile garden soil to sandy soil. In the clay, dense soil for clematis, on the contrary, loosening sand is mixed. As a fertilizer, 100 grams of complex mineral fertilizing are applied to each bucket of soil, as well as about a liter of purified wood ash. The increased acidity of the soil is neutralized with dolomite flour, slaked lime or other similar means.

The planting hole is half filled, in the form of an equilateral mound in the middle, with a prepared substrate. A seedling with pre-straightened rhizomes is placed on its top. The root collar, or tillering site, should be below the estimated ground level, and the depth depends on the size and age of the decorative liana.

For seedlings 2-3 years old, it is 6-12 cm, that is, you will have to deepen not only the base of the plant, but also the first pair of leaves or buds. 3-4 year old clematis deepen another 5-10 cm more. Such a measure will help the plant to survive the winter frosts and summer heat, and also stimulates the formation of several strong shoots.

After planting, the soil near clematis is watered, compacted and mulched, and protection from the sun and wind is built over the young plant.

Outdoor clematis care

The first year after planting is the time for acclimatization and active growth. Therefore, the soil under the clematis is loosened and weeded as necessary. Watering should be regular, but not excessive. Strong seedlings form buds already in the first summer, but experienced flower growers advise to cut off future flowers, which risk seriously weakening another small plant. If minerals with organic matter were introduced into the planting pit, the first feeding is carried out only a year later, in the spring.

The growing shoots are carefully attached to the installed support and monitor the state of the greenery. At the beginning of summer, there is a high risk of damage to young shoots by sucking insects. Closer to autumn, with an increase in humidity and the difference between day and night temperatures, the risk of fungal diseases increases. Therefore, the care of clematis in the open field must include preventive and urgent treatments with plant protection products.

If the seedling has given only one strong shoot, it can be pushed towards tillering by pinching the tender top. Subsequently, to activate growth, you can use deep watering and fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers. You can add them;

• as a solution on wet ground;
• dry with obligatory loosening and watering;
• as a foliar top dressing, spraying.

In acidic soil, the root system of clematis develops extremely slowly. Spring watering with lime milk at the rate of 200 grams of lime per bucket of water will help deacidify the soil under plantings.

3-4 years after planting clematis in open ground, a summer resident may face unforeseen difficulties in caring for it. Subject to agricultural technology, the flowers become smaller, and the liana grows noticeably more slowly than before. The most common problem is lack of moisture. Compacted soil does not allow water to reach the roots, and loosening at such a depth is impossible. In this case, the system of intra-soil irrigation will help, which allows saturating the deep layers of the soil, and then preventing them from drying out. At a distance of 30–40 cm from clematis, several plastic bottles are poured in with an open neck down.During watering, they are filled with water, which gradually flows to the very roots of the flowering liana.

Perennial clematis also need regular pruning, which helps plants get rid of damaged, old, dried out shoots. And the summer resident, who has mastered the features of cutting different types of clematis, will receive the most lush and early flowering of his wards.

Video about planting clematis