Climbing rose planting and care in the open field for beginners

Let's find out in more detail what a climbing rose is. Planting and caring for this marvelous flower in the open field will be discussed in stages in this article. Summer residents and gardeners know that with the help of this type of roses, you can turn even the most modest plot into a beautiful romantic corner.

↑ to contents ↑ Climbing rose - description of the type and features of planting

The shoots of climbing roses can reach several meters. Any support located in close proximity to the bush is quickly braided by its long and flexible branches. You have probably admired amazingly beautiful flower arches more than once. Floral columns, pyramids, trellises, well-disguised old buildings, part of a wall or roof - any garden structure can be decorated with a luxurious climbing rose. This type of plant is ideal for vertical gardening, but in order for everything to look harmonious and attractive, you should know the rules for planting, pruning, caring for and protecting bushes from pests.

The color scheme of this type of roses is as varied as that of their park or ground cover relatives. Buds range in size from 2.5 to 12 cm in diameter, climbing rose varieties bloom in June and continue to bloom as long as the warm season lasts (approximately 30-170 days, depending on the variety). There are many varieties of climbing roses, but they can all be divided into groups:

• Semi-plaited, whose height reaches 1.5-3 meters.
• Climbing - 3-5 meters.
• Curly - 5-15 meters.

The shoots of these roses are formed continuously, the phases of budding and flowering differ, again, depending on the variety. Among these representatives there are both single-flowering species and re-flowering ones.

Climbing rose, photo:

The buds of some varieties can exude a pronounced aroma that can be heard from a distance, some smell slightly audible, subtle and gentle. This culture will feel great in sunny places with good ventilation. Wetlands are strictly contraindicated for it, as are sandstones and heavy clay soil. In general, loose loams or fertile soils with good soil permeability are most suitable for this type of roses. If your site is dominated by an unsuitable soil for a climbing rose, then be sure to dilute it with a suitable one. Thus, sand is added to the clay soil, and clay is added to the sandy soil (to a depth of about 30 cm), in addition to this, humus or humus should be added, as well as phosphorus additives.

All land adaptation procedures must be carried out six months before planting roses, or at least 2 months before that. Experienced gardeners recommend planting climbing roses where their counterparts have not previously grown. If it does not work in another way, then before planting you need to replace the top layer of the earth (by 50-70 cm). Ideally, the climbing rose should be planted on a small hill. The root system of these plants goes deep into the soil (up to 2 meters), so you should make sure in advance that the groundwater at the chosen place does not pass close to the top layer of the soil.

If you decide to "drape" a part of the house wall with a climbing rose, then the distance between the bush and the wall should be at least 60 cm (and at least half a meter from other plants). Most often, a climbing rose is planted in the last weeks of September or in the first half of October. Thus, before the onset of serious cold snaps, the roots will have time to take root in a new place. With the arrival of spring, all parts of the plant will enter a phase of active development and growth, and by the beginning of summer the rose will bloom in lush color. If a climbing rose is planted in the ground in spring, then by this time it should warm up to at least +10 ° C, catch the moment when the buds have not yet blossomed - this is important. The second half of April / first weeks of May is the most optimal time for spring planting.

↑ to the content ↑ Planting a climbing rose in the ground in spring

I will make a reservation right away that the rules for spring planting of seedlings are not much different from autumn ones. All stages described, as well as subsequent care, are applied both in spring and autumn. You should be prepared for the fact that the roses planted in spring will lag a little in development, require increased attention from you to your person. Compared to their autumn counterparts, they can delay flowering times by about 10 days.

So, before planting, the seedling needs to shorten the branches, up to about 20 cm in length, the roots, too, up to 30 cm. Dig a spacious hole so that the roots have room to grow. The depth of the hole should be 60-70 cm.If you are planting several bushes, then the distance between them should be at least 100 cm. When immersing the seedling in the soil, make sure that the root collar is also buried 12-15 cm - this will protect it from frost in the cold season. The roots are gently straightened, covered with soil, slightly compacted with your hands. Make sure that all the roots are directed downwards and do not bend upwards!

Planting a climbing rose in spring provides for the introduction of nutritious soil into the hole. About 3-5 kg, for example, peat compost, will appeal to your rose. After planting, the soil is trampled down a little and watered abundantly. It will be very good if you add a preparation with beneficial bacteria that stimulates growth, for example, "Phosphobacterin" to the water for this first watering. The Heteroauxin phytohormone is also great.

In some cases, summer residents cover newly planted bushes with plastic wrap - this technique contributes to better adaptation of plants in a new place.It is up to you to decide whether to do it or not, if the weather conditions in your region push you to create greenhouse conditions for climbing roses, then do not forget to lift the film daily and gradually increase the airing time every day. After stable warm weather is established, remove the film and cover the ground around the bushes with leaf humus, peat, chopped bark or straw.

↑ back to contents ↑ How to plant a climbing rose in the spring, bought in a store?

Today in flower shops you can buy climbing rose seedlings with open or closed root systems. Representatives with open roots should be immediately planted in the ground. When choosing, pay attention to the presence of lignified shoots - there should be at least two of them. Such a shoot must be ripe (bend with a crunch), otherwise the rose may not withstand wintering. The bush as a whole should look healthy, have well-developed roots, strong, without dried out fragments. The length of the shoots should be at least 60-70 cm.

Climbing rose varieties with a closed root system are sold in pots, so you cannot immediately assess the condition of the roots. Carefully inspect the shoots, they should look healthy, not very elongated, if they have a light green color, then it is better to refrain from buying. The elongation of the shoots and their light shade indicate improper storage of seedlings - either in excessive heat or in insufficient lighting. Such a rose will be weak, painful, unlikely to survive the winter. Close attention should also be paid to the grafting sites; a properly grafted cutting should have callus tissue at the "joint" site, which promotes fusion. If the graft site is peeling and looks unhealthy, then you will only have problems with such a rose.

Planting a climbing rose in spring from the store, steps:

1. A rose with a closed root system is carefully removed from the pot along with an earthen lump, and then planted in the chosen place. For representatives with an open root system, remove the film from the roots, place them in water. If there are buds or shoots below the grafting site, remove them. If there is wild growth, we also remove it, too long shoots can be pinched. Do not forget to powder the cut points with charcoal or activated charcoal.
2. The roots should be in the water for 3-4 hours, thus, the plant will be saturated with moisture, the transport soil will become soft, it can be easily removed and carefully examine the root system. Stimulant "Kornevin" can be added to the water (according to the instructions).
3. We take the roses out of the water, straighten the roots as carefully as possible and place the seedling in the dug hole. About what the pit should be and how to mix the soil (if the situation requires it), it has already been described a little higher. Water the rose well.
4. After the water is absorbed, you can add more earth (spud). When re-filling the soil, the grafting site can be covered with a layer of soil, but not more than 3 cm.
5. If the spring sun is shining too brightly, do not be too lazy to cover the young bush with a paper bag or a cloth of light shades - so it is guaranteed not to burn out. This protective coating can be left on for 5-7 days.

Further, you will need standard care for the climbing rose: hilling, watering, feeding, removing weeds, garter and forming a bush.

↑ back to content ↑ Climbing roses - care and cultivation

In hot and dry weather, rose bushes should be watered once every five days. After 20 days after planting, you need to carefully shake off the soil from the bush. By the way, roses planted in autumn are also opened after winter in the first weeks of April. For this procedure, it is advisable to choose a non-sunny day, so that later the plant does not experience stress during the night temperature drop.Make sure that the grafting site remains buried about 10 cm in the soil.

During the growing season, the climbing rose requires generous watering. After the buds appear, as well as after the formation of the bush, the plant should be watered every 10 days. At the same time, water should penetrate to the very roots and deeper, 10-12 liters per one bush will be quite enough. A couple of days after rain or watering, you need to loosen the soil around the rose. It can also be mulched. For roses, both waterlogging and lack of moisture are equally harmful, so observe the golden mean in this matter.

Climbing rose, photo:

↑ back to contents ↑ How to fertilize climbing roses

Fertilization is an important step in caring for a climbing rose, because this species is quite picky about feeding. Throughout the summer, nitrogen supplements should be alternated with complex fertilizers; it is recommended to apply them every 2-3 weeks. With the onset of spring, the plant is fed with a complex mineral fertilizer, for example - "Agricola-Rose" (according to the instructions). After two or three weeks, you can add organic matter - fertilizer "Ideal" or "Flower". You can also use the old proven method - 10 liters of mullein and 3 kg of wood ash, diluted in 50 liters of water. It is recommended to dilute one liter of this mixture in 10 liters of water, and then water the plant with the resulting composition at the very root. From about the second week of July, you can begin to slowly add phosphorus and potassium supplements in order to prepare the bushes in advance for the coming winter. Carefully read the dosage of drugs in the instructions, remember that by overfeeding the rose with chemistry, you can simply ruin it.

↑ to contents ↑ Care of a climbing rose in the first year

How does it differ from standard requirements? The further development and splendor of flowering depends on competent care in the first year of a plant's life. When new shoots appear, the soil is removed from the bushes (the one that was used for hilling). If there are sunny days, then at first, light shading with coniferous spruce branches will not hurt. After 10-12 days after removing the hilling soil, you can start the first pruning of the central shoot. It should be shortened over the second or third sheet. A little later, with the lateral branches of the second order, you need to do a similar procedure, while the eyes "looking" inside the bush must be removed, and those eyes that are located on the outside are left for further correct formation of the bush.

Caring for a climbing rose in the first year also involves removing the buds, as odd as it sounds. From the beginning of flowering until the first weeks of August, it is recommended to leave only two flowers on each branch. With the arrival of autumn, these flowers will turn into boxes with seeds (fruits), and after the manipulations carried out, your rose will bloom especially magnificently next year.

In summer, preventive irrigation should not be neglected against the invasion of parasites, and with the onset of autumn, rose bushes should be covered. Lutrasil, spunbond or coniferous spruce branches are an excellent covering material for this plant. The bush is completely covered. When a new spring comes, young bushes are opened first, older representatives - later. In principle, all climbing rose bushes are sheltered for the winter. An old proven method is hilling with earth and sand (1: 1) to a height of about 30 cm, with the arrival of autumn, and a little later - full cover with the onset of the first frost.

↑ back to contents ↑ Pruning climbing roses or how to prune a climbing rose

Is the climbing rose pruned in the fall for the winter? If other types of roses can be simply spud, then the climbing one must be covered completely - this factor does not depend on your region of residence.You can choose one of the methods of thermal insulation, in the first case, the ground part of the bush is removed from the support, the foliage is removed, and all weak and old shoots are cut off.

Here you have to choose 10-12 of the strongest and healthiest branches (remaining after pruning), combine them into one bunch, rewind with twine and gently tilt them to the ground. With the help of metal brackets (we cut the wire into fragments and bend), the branches are fixed to the ground, and then they are covered with an appropriate protective material. If there are several shrubs, they are located in close proximity to each other, then they can be covered with one common covering canvas. In the second case, everything happens in a similar way, only in this case the plant is not removed from the support, but reliably wrapped in protective material directly on it. The base of the bush is spud in the way described above.

How to prune a climbing rose? This important agrotechnical care measure needs to be given special attention. Pruning helps to shape the crown of the plant, promotes generous and long-lasting flowering, and has a positive effect on the health and vitality of the climbing rose. Immediately after planting, all shoots are shortened by 20-30 cm; in the summer, faded buds and branches growing inside the crown (thickening it) are cut off.

Starting from the second year of the plant's life, the branches are pruned at the end of the flowering phase.

How to prune climbing roses after flowering? They fade around the end of August - September (depending on the climate in the region), at this time all diseased and dead branches should be removed. The oldest shoots (choose 1 or 2) are cut off completely, subsequently they will be successfully replaced by young basal processes. If these processes are not there, then the old branches should be measured about 40 cm from the base, and the rest should be removed - this procedure is aimed at activating the growth of replacing basal branches.

The rest (not very old) shoots are cut off in the place where a new powerful growth began to form, subsequently it will act as a conductor. Short peduncle branches are cut to 2 or 3 buds (about 15-17 cm from the base of the branch), weak stems are cut to 3 buds (we also measure from the base). The skeleton (base) of the crown should be formed from the strongest, correctly growing shoots (evenly directed), on which young branches will then form.

How to prune a climbing rose in the spring? You should pick up the pruner when the buds begin to swell on the branches from below (last weeks of April / early May), not earlier. If you start pruning too early, then with night frosts, the branches may simply freeze, as a result of which the rose will bloom much later than the due date. If you miss pruning time, then the plant will throw all its energy into the formation of new branches and foliage, and flowering will be poor.

Pruning climbing roses in the spring has one important point - removal, namely, cutting off (not cutting) wild shoots that have grown below the grafting site. Usually this situation becomes apparent after the spring opening of the bushes. Also at this time all sick, frozen branches are removed, all affected fragments are clearly visible in spring, when buds swell on the “living” branches.

↑ back to content ↑ Transplanting a climbing rose to another place

Sometimes, due to inexperience, the gardener chooses an unsuccessful place where the plant feels uncomfortable and sick. In such cases, the situation can be corrected by transplanting. The best time for this operation is autumn, September or the first weeks of October. It is not recommended to transplant later, since the rose needs time to adapt to a new place of residence before the onset of cold weather.

However, if circumstances require it, transplanting a climbing rose to another place is also possible.As soon as the ground thaws after the winter frosts, and the buds on the branches of roses have not yet had time to wake up, you can get down to business. To do this, the ground part of the plant is removed from the support, the bush itself is carefully dug in (moving in a circular manner), about 50-60 cm recede from the base of the plant.Do everything very carefully so as not to damage the root system of the rose, let the hole be deeper than necessary, but the roots will remain intact.

Next, the plant is removed from the ground, excess soil is removed from the roots, after which the climbing rose is immediately transplanted to a new place.

When replanting, the same rules are observed as with a standard planting - the roots are straightened and directed downward, the free space in the pit is filled with the appropriate soil mixture, the soil is lightly tamped and watered generously with water.

After 3-4 days, you should fill up the earth (it will settle slightly), spud your rose.

There is one interesting nuance associated with transplanting roses - their belonging to the climber and rambler groups. I will allow myself a small digression: all varieties of climbing roses can be figuratively divided into these two groups:

• climbers;
• ramblers.

Climbing varieties of climbing roses are called climbing, they form rough and thick branches that can reach 3-5 m in length. Climber shoots are not very flexible; when transplanting, they must be cut to half of their entire length!

Rambler are precisely curly roses with flexible and soft whip shoots, the length of which can reach 10 meters. Rumbler roses are characterized by active growth; when transplanted, they cut off all shoots that are more than two years old. All young branches are left intact, but at the end of the calendar summer they must be pinched tops - this technique accelerates the lignification of the branches.

↑ back to contents ↑ How to propagate a climbing rose?

There are four ways to propagate this rose: seeds, layers, cuttings and grafting. The most common and convenient option is grafting. Seed propagation is only possible if the seed is purchased at the appropriate store. As you know, self-collected seeds from climbing roses growing in your country house or in the garden do not carry the varietal characteristics of the mother plant.

↑ to content ↑ Growing a climbing rose from seeds

Pre-soak the seeds in 3% hydrogen peroxide for 30 minutes. Such disinfection creates a shield against the appearance of mold in the subsequent stages of plant growth. Then we remove the seeds from the solution, spread them on a thin layer of cotton wool, again soaked in hydrogen peroxide, cover it on top with a similar cotton layer, which is also saturated with peroxide.

Place the resulting "sandwich" in a plastic bag and hide it in the refrigerator, in the compartment for herbs and vegetables. We periodically inspect the seeds, change the cotton layers to new ones (also saturated with hydrogen peroxide).

After 40-50 days, the already germinated seed can be carefully transferred into peat tablets or small plastic cups with the appropriate soil mixture. Seedling cassettes are also fine.

Watering young shoots should be done as the soil dries up. For plants to develop properly, they need to be provided with daily light for 10 hours. If you do everything right, then a couple of months after planting the seeds in tablets or cassettes, the first buds may appear on young roses. With the arrival of spring, new livestock are planted in open ground.

↑ to the content ↑ Reproduction of a climbing rose by cuttings

This is the easiest breeding method, almost always giving 100% positive results. For cutting cuttings, already faded or still flowering branches, which are taken from a rose in the very middle of summer, in the 10th of July, are suitable for you.

The cut fragment should have at least two internodes, the place of the lower cut (45º angle) should be located close to the kidney.The upper cut (flat) is carried out at a considerable distance from the kidney.

Further, all the lower leaves are cut off from the cutting, and the upper leaves are cut in half. A stalk is placed in a previously prepared container with sand or with a mixture of sand and soil, deepened by about 1-2 cm, covered with a glass jar on top and removed to a well-lit place.

Now you will need to periodically water the cutting (without removing the can) and make sure that it does not come into direct sunlight.

↑ to the content ↑ Reproduction of a climbing rose by layering

In the spring, from the shoots growing from below, we choose the most attractive one and make cuts on it, right under the buds. Next, we make out a small groove-bed about 10 cm wide, put a thin layer of humus on the bottom of the groove, sprinkle it on top with the same layer of soil. Now we carefully bend the shoot, put it in the groove and fix it with metal brackets. After that, we cover the shoot with soil, but leave the top looking out. Then, as usual, we take care of the bush, but do not forget to water and fertilize the place of the buried shoot. After a year, when spring comes, the layers can be cut off from the bush and planted in a separate place as a full-fledged plant.

↑ to the content ↑ Reproduction of roses by grafting (budding) on ​​rose hips

A climbing rose can be grafted onto a rose hip bush - this technique is often used by gardeners and summer residents. The best time for this operation is the last weeks of July or the first half of August. Before budding, the dog rose should be watered generously with water.

Directly on the root collar of the bush, an incision is made in the bark in the form of the letter "T", after which the edges of the bark are slightly pulled back. This kind of "pocket" holds a peephole cut from a climbing rose. The peephole must be separated from the rose along with the bark and a small piece of wood.

Next, we tightly press the peephole to the neck of the stock and also tightly wrap this place with a special film for budding (freely sold in flower shops). After all the manipulations, the rose hip bush is earthed up, and so that the soil rises above the grafting site by 5 cm (this is the minimum). After two to three weeks, the film can be slightly weakened, and with the arrival of a new spring, it is removed for good.

↑ Back to Contents ↑ Climbing rose does not bloom - why?

This can also happen, at least on flower forums, gardeners often ask each other a similar question. Experimentally, 7 factors were found out that affect the absence of flowers in climbing roses.

1. Diseases. The most dangerous diseases of climbing roses are bark cancer and ash (powdery mildew). Quite good results are given by preventive irrigation of the bushes with Bordeaux liquid (1%) at the stage of dormant buds. To reduce the risk of bark cancer, plants should be provided with potash fertilizers. At the beginning of autumn, you need to feed the climbing rose with potassium sulfate (potassium sulfate) and / or a nitrogen-phosphorus additive, for example, superphosphate. Careful inspection and timely removal of affected branches, as well as a competently carried out shelter of roses for the winter is a powerful shield against diseases that weaken the plant and can really cause the absence of flowers.
2. Wild growth. Multiple shoots can often be seen near the root zone of the climbing rose. Of course, they should be removed in a timely manner, because they are not of any use, they only suck vitality from the bush. If you ignore them and allow them to grow further, your rose will gradually run wild and, naturally, will stop giving color. You should remove wild growth as soon as it caught your eye.
3. The wrong shelter for the winter. A climbing rose needs careful shelter before the onset of cold weather. Correct wrapping of the bushes consists in creating an air cushion between the covering material and, in fact, the bush itself.Such an air gap will protect the plant from dampness during possible thaws, because dampness for a rose is as destructive as low temperatures. Proper preparation for winter also consists in limiting watering, starting from the first weeks of September. A ban is also imposed on loosening the soil. From this time on, the rose should not be given nitrogen fertilizing, only potash is allowed.
4. Too many nitrogen supplements. Everything is simple here - nitrogen fertilizers contribute to the growth of the green mass of the plant, which, in turn, negatively affects the setting of buds. If you overdo it with nitrogen, the climbing rose may not bloom.
5. Inappropriate landing site. An incorrectly chosen place can cause not only a lack of flowers, the rose can simply die. Before choosing a site for planting a climbing rose, make sure that there will be no strong drafts and shade.
6. Illiterate pruning. Everything should be in moderation, if you start pruning too actively and capture a lot of young shoots, the rose simply will not be able to recover and, of course, will not form buds. Prune the plant correctly, remove old and thickening branches, pay attention to wild growth.
7. Unsuitable soil composition. The soil for growing climbing roses has already been mentioned above. The composition of the earth is an important factor, plus it must be fertile, loose, saturated with useful substances.

↑ back to content ↑ Climbing rose - diseases and pests

Prevention and control of disease or pest infestation is one of the aspects of climbing rose care. Spider mites, aphids, leafworms, thrips, rose sawfly - a list of the most active parasites of climbing roses.

Caterpillar of a rose-cut sawfly on a roseRose infested with spider mites

At the initial stage, aphids can be manually removed from the branches, after putting on garden gloves, but as soon as it feels like a full owner, you will need the help of chemicals. Insecticides "Sharpei", "Aktara", "Inta-Vir", as well as the good old "Karbofos" are guaranteed to help you cope with this problem.

If you want to try the so-called folk methods of struggle, then grate laundry soap (1 tablespoon) and dissolve it in 1 liter of water. Irrigate rose bushes with this solution for a week, then remove all affected fragments - it should help.

A spider mite loves heat and drought, a silvery coating on foliage is a sign of the presence of an intruder. Old methods of struggle with the help of thick tobacco infusion or wormwood broth give very good results. Contact ascaricide "Neoron" is one of the best means of protecting roses from spider mites. One ml of the drug is dissolved in a liter of water, after which the bushes are irrigated. Sometimes it is enough to treat roses twice with this preparation for the tick to give up its positions. Bio-insecticide "Fitoverm" also proved to be excellent in this matter.

According to the reviews of experienced gardeners, the drug "Aktara" works great against the rose sawfly. The preparations "Aktellik" and "Phosbecid" (15 ml per 10 liters of water) also show a good result, which extends not only to the sawfly, but also to other "lovers" of climbing roses.

In addition to all of the above, I would like to remind you of the spring and autumn spraying of roses with Bordeaux liquid - this is important.

Among the diseases of climbing roses, the most dangerous are: bacterial cancer, gray mold, powdery mildew, coniotirium (burned bark).

Powdery mildewBacterial cancer

There is no cure for some diseases (bacterial cancer), but taking prevention seriously will minimize the risk of the disease.

Disinfection of the root system in a solution of 3% copper sulfate (before planting), removal of suspicious fragments and rapid irrigation of wound sites with the same copper sulfate are the most often recommended preventive measures.

The defeat of the coniotirium can be detected in the spring, as soon as the protective cover is removed from the roses. In this case, it is necessary to immediately cut off diseased branches (with the capture of healthy fragments) and burn them. Until the buds awaken, the plant can be treated with three percent iron sulfate, the ground around the bush must be watered too. The same Bordeaux liquid or the drug "Abiga-Peak" can also be involved in the case while the buds have not yet blossomed.

In principle, to combat other diseases of roses, the usual scheme works - the removal of the affected areas and their subsequent burning, abundant irrigation of the plant with a solution of ferrous sulfate (3%), copper sulfate (2%) or Bordeaux liquid (3%). Such spraying is often carried out in three stages (at weekly intervals), but sometimes, especially at an early stage, one treatment may be enough.

↑ to the content ↑ Climbing roses - photos and names of winter-hardy varieties

The dream of any gardener is that your favorite flowers delight the eyes with lush buds for as long as possible and endure wintering staunchly. It is simply unrealistic to mention all winter-hardy and long-blooming varieties of climbing roses, but I would like to highlight some of them, briefly describe their main qualities.

↑ back to contents ↑ Climbing rose "Iceberg"

It fully lives up to its name, its snow-white buds will bloom for a very long time (until autumn) and profusely. Repeated blooming is a distinctive feature of this rose, it grows rather quickly and in the shortest possible time can braid an arch or a wall of a building. The plant is unpretentious, cold-resistant, the aroma is weak.

Variety "Iceberg", photo:

↑ to contents ↑ Climbing rose "Lavinia"

It boasts cup-shaped flowers of a rich pink hue, undemanding to care, re-blooming, aroma with light Muscat notes. It grows up to 3 m in height, has good immunity to most rose diseases, blooms continuously until the first frost.

Variety "Lavinia", photo:

↑ back to content ↑ "Polka" variety

It is characterized by undulating blooms, approximately five waves per summer. Terry buds, apricot shade, gradually turning into a creamy color. Loves sunlit places very much, has good disease resistance, can grow up to 3 m in height. This variety has powerful and spreading shoots with large thorns, weak aroma.

Photo of a climbing rose of the "Polka" variety:

↑ back to contents ↑ Climbing rose "Don Juan"

Luxurious double rose with large (12 cm in diameter) flowers of deep red color. It is an excellent option for decorating the walls of buildings and any vertical supports. It grows up to 3.5 m in height, loves the sun, but also blooms without problems in partial shade. These roses can be cut to make bouquets, they are very fragrant and keep fresh for a long time.

Variety "Don Juan", photo:

↑ back to content ↑ Sort "Flamentants"

This rose is considered one of the most attractive red climbing roses. Her buds are large (8 cm in diameter), double, multi-petal. Possesses increased frost resistance, powerful bushes can reach 2-3 m in height. With proper care, this variety can grow and bloom in one place for about 20 years. The aroma of the rose is very delicate, but not very pronounced.

Photo of roses "Flamentance":

↑ to contents ↑ Climbing rose "Handel"

The buds of this variety have a very interesting color - white-pink, with bright crimson edges and a slightly yellowish center. The buds are large, about 10 cm in diameter, the bush grows to 2.5-3 m in height. The rose is multi-blooming, disease resistance is average, one should beware of black spot and ash.

Variety "Handel", photo:

↑ back to content ↑ "Bobby James" variety

Small-flowered representative, but the most attractive in its category. Can reach 8 m in height, resistant to diseases, semi-double white flowers with a yellow center (about 4.5 cm in diameter), outwardly resemble cherry flowers. It has a pronounced musky aroma; during flowering, the branches are simply covered with buds, so that behind them you can hardly see the foliage. The buds themselves have the ability to slowly open over about 10-12 days. A spectacular and incredibly luxurious variety

Photo of Bobby James rose:

↑ to contents ↑ Climbing rose "Golden Perfume"

A re-flowering variety whose flowers bloom slowly, to the delight of gardeners. Large buds (up to 10 cm in diameter) of this rose exude a very strong aroma that can be heard even from afar. Flowers of a rich bright yellow hue will adorn the bush until the arrival of the first frost. Shoots grow up to 2-3 m in height, foliage also looks very attractive - rich green, dense, creating a beautiful contrast with yellow flowers.

Variety "Golden Perfume", photo:

↑ back to content ↑ Variety "Parade"

One of the most winter-hardy re-flowering climbing roses, with large (10 cm in diameter) multi-petal buds of a juicy cherry shade or rich dark pink. Luxurious inflorescences are so large and heavy that the shoots literally bend from their weight. It blooms throughout the summer, blooms slowly, reaches 2-3.5 m in height, resistant to precipitation.

Roses of the "Parade" variety, photo:

↑ to contents ↑ Climbing rose "Schwannensee"

Another variety with increased cold resistance. The multi-petal buds of this rose have a classic shape, medium size (7-9 cm in diameter) and a very delicate color - white, with a creamy pink core. Schwannensee blooms until the very frost, slowly blooming and spreading a delicate refined aroma. The variety is hardy, multi-flowering, rain-resistant. The bush can reach 3 m in height.

Variety "Schwannensee", photo:

↑ back to content ↑ Sort "Casino"

This rose is suitable for cutting into a bouquet, has a bright fruity aroma, lemon-colored buds are most beautiful when loose. A multi-petal variety, the diameter of a double flower reaches 9-11 cm, its color is darker inside, the outer petals are paler. The bush grows up to 3-4 m in height, blooms profusely, luxuriantly, repeatedly throughout the summer.

Climbing rose of the "Casino" variety, photo:

Of course, a climbing rose will require an investment of time and effort from you, but, you must admit, its luxurious beauty fully justifies such "sacrifices". Follow all the above recommendations, carefully consider the choice of a place of residence for a rose.

Do not plant it near bushes and trees with powerful roots, do not forget to feed it with appropriate fertilizers in time.

Provide her with reliable support, the types of which I will tell you about in the next article.

Let a climbing rose also settle on your site. Planting and care in the open field, the nuances of reproduction and transplanting, a rough idea of ​​individual varieties - you now know all this and can apply my advice in practice.

The following videos will successfully complement the article:

You can decorate even the most unsightly corner of the garden and at the same time add a piece of light romance to it with the help of climbing roses. These extraordinary, beautifully flowering climbing plants please the owners with their flowering almost throughout the season. But for it to be flawless, climbing roses require proper planting and special care. We will tell you about all the intricacies and nuances of growing climbing plants in this article.

Curly rose: planting and care, photo

Any plant in the garden or in the summer cottage requires care. Particular attention must be paid to some flowering crops, which include weaving roses.and with long branches... Abundant and long-lasting flowering of this beautiful plant can be achieved only with the exact fulfillment of all the rules for planting, careful care throughout the year, timely pruning and protection from winter frosts and pests.

Choosing a landing site

Roses are photophilous, therefore, with a lack of sunlight, fresh stems will develop poorly and will bloom only in the next season. However, the midday sun can burn the plant. The place for planting roses should be such that in the hottest hours the bushes were in partial shade... The best option would be a site that the sun heats up in the morning. In the morning hours, the dew from the leaves will quickly evaporate, and the viral diseases of the roses will not be afraid.

Curly roses are also finicky. They do not tolerate drafts well, and therefore the corners of buildings are not suitable for planting them. Do not plant them in areas where roses have already grown and in wetlands. It is best to choose a bed with a slope so that water does not stagnate in the ground. The roots of the plant reach about two meters in length, so if the moisture of the soil is constantly very high, the flowers are planted on a hill.

Climbing shrubs for decoration can be planted along the walls of the building... So that their roots are not depleted, the distance from the wall should be at least 60 cm. In any case, the planting of climbing roses should take place near some kind of support. These can be fences, nets, pergolas, arches, walls, or specially crafted pillars or cones.

When to plant climbing roses?

In areas with a temperate climate, shrubs are planted in open ground in late September - early October. Within two weeks, they will give the first roots and before the onset of cold weather they will have time to get stronger. In the spring, the root and aerial parts will begin to grow actively, the bush will become lush, gain strength and bloom. However, in the northern regions, climbing roses are best planted in the spring, since the bushes planted in the fall will not have time to adapt, and can freeze out in winter.

Plants, which were planted in spring, are delayed in their development by about half a month and require increased attention. Before planting in the ground, such seedlings are cut into three buds.

Selection and processing of seedlings

Beautiful curly rosals can only be obtained in the presence of healthy seedlings... Their viability and quality are indicated by the appearance of the trunk. It should only be whitish green, not gray or brown. The acquired seedlings in open ground are not planted immediately. They must first be prepared:

1. Soak the plant completely in water for a day.
2. Shorten healthy roots by 15 cm, and cut off the crushed and weakened ones completely. A small bunch should remain.
3. Shorten strong branches of roses by 15-20 cm, and remove weak ones completely.
4. Sprinkle the cuts with crushed charcoal.
5. Treat the roots with Heteroauxin or Kornevin.

Thanks to this preparation for landing the bushes will begin to actively grow, and during the flowering period, many buds are formed on them.

Soil preparation

Climbing roses love fertile, loamy, well-drained soil. Only heavy clay and sand are not suitable for growing them. Therefore, clay areas are diluted with sand, and sandy areas - with clay. More suitable in chemical composition and crumbly soil will become after adding a small amount of lime to it.

When digging, the fertility of the soil can be increased by adding to it:

• phosphate fertilizers;
• humus;
• humus;
• phosphorobacterin (special soil bacteria).

The soil is prepared for planting climbing shrubs in advance. It is necessary to dig it up several times at the end of summer, and then loosen it also in the spring.

Landing features

The roots of a young plant should not experience a lack of space, so the holes for them should be free enough. The optimal depth is considered to be 60-65 cm.In order for the root system to develop freely, the distance between the plants must be at least one meter.

When planting roses in the hole, it is necessary observe the following recommendations:

1. About five kilograms of the nutrient mixture is preliminarily introduced into each hole. You can use peat compost.
2. The roots of the roses should be free in the hole. The voids between them are necessarily filled up.
3. The root collar of the plant is covered with soil by about 10-12 cm. This will help to protect it from frost in addition to insulation.
4. The planted rose is watered with a bucket of warm water.
5. The remaining space is filled with a mixture and lightly compacted.

The support to which the rose will be attached in the future should not interfere with the development of the root system. If the support is portable, then you can use special tripods, trellises or trellises. The pole and tripods can be made by yourself by knocking down for this wooden beams from 2.5-3 meters high... They will look gorgeous as arch supports, on both sides of which two bushes are planted. By the end of the second year, they will be completely entwined with curly roses with delicate flowers (pictured).

Caring for planted bushes

The main rules for caring for climbing roses include regular watering, timely feeding of plants, garter and pruning of shoots, sheltering bushes for the winter and protecting them from pests and diseases. Let's consider each point in more detail.

Watering and feeding

Climbing shrubs do not like excess moisture and tolerate drought without problems. It is recommended to water them once a week with a small amount of water, which should not be cold. Overmoistening plants can lead to viral diseases and poor appearance of the bushes.

Fertilizing roses is best manure or other organic fertilizers, alternating them with mineral dressings. It should be borne in mind that young plants at first will be sufficiently fertilized when planting soil. Therefore, it is not necessary to feed them too often. The next year after planting, caring for climbing roses will consist of fertilizing with fertilizers of the following composition:

• fresh black soil;
• humus;
• phosphorus complementary foods;
• humus.

With such a mixture, the soil in which the roses grow "revives" in spring and autumn. If it is not possible to prepare the composition yourself, then you can buy ready-made fertilizer for roses.

Pruning shoots

All climbing roses are divided into two types, each of which requires a certain pruning:

1. In shrubs flowering from June to July, after planting, all shoots are shortened. There should be shoots 30 cm long. New stems that appear during active growth are cut off as needed to form a beautiful bush.
2. Roses with a small number of basal shoots, which appear only on old branches, are shortened to 30 cm in the first year. The next year after planting, all old shoots are cut out completely.

Garter of climbing roses

After pruning, new branches will begin to grow, which need to be guided, giving the bush the intended shape. To form more buds, individual lashes are tied. At the same time, it is undesirable that they are directed only upward, since with this arrangement, the buds are formed only at the tops.

For lush flowering bushes there are several ways to tie:

1. Shoots can be fanned out, leaving the side branches not tied up. They will not interfere with each other, freely extending to the sides and up.
2. The main shoots are located horizontally, tied to the support. After a while, they will give new side branches, which will grow upward, forming a cloud of beautiful flowers.
3. In order for the curly branches to braid an arch or a pillar, they are tied up in a spiral, twisting around the support.

Whichever way the bush is formed, one should not neglect the care of climbing roses and preparing them for winter.

Protecting roses from frost

Before proceeding with the shelter, the bushes must be prepared. To do this, remove the leaves from them, cut out old loops and weak shoots. As a result there should be 11-12 healthy and strong shoots... All work is carried out in dry weather.

The way a climbing plant hides depends on the region in which it grows. In regions with a mild climate, the branches can not be removed from the support, covering them first with spruce branches, and then wrapping them in film.

In areas with severe winters, the plants are completely removed from the support. First, they are collected in a large bundle and tied. After the air temperature drops to -5C, they gently tilt to the ground, where they are fixed with wire or pegs. The base of the bush is sprinkled with a mixture of peat and soil, and the shoots are covered with spruce branches. From above everything takes cover thick film or agrofiber.

It is very important to remove the shelter on time in the spring. Otherwise, in a humid environment and without fresh air, the roses may suffocate and start to hurt. On open bushes, shoots are refreshed and tied to supports. The first feeding is recommended only after the appearance of young leaves.

Diseases of climbing roses

In case of errors in the care and incorrect arrangement of the bushes on the site, they may be affected by the following diseases:

1. Black spot occurs on young shoots in warm weather and heavy rains. You can recognize it by the black and brown spots on the leaves, which have a yellow halo. All affected leaves are removed from the plant and burned. Feeding is done with phosphate and potassium.
2. Powdery mildew progresses with increased humidity. If a white bloom appears on the leaves and stems, and the flowers do not bloom, then this indicates that the plant is sick. The bushes are treated with iron and copper sulfate, all the affected areas are cut out, the soil is dug up.
3. Bacterial cancer can be recognized by the growths and bumps on the roots. They are soft at first, but darken over time. The plant begins to dry out and dies. The affected roots are cut out, and the remaining ones are treated with copper sulfate.

When treating climbing roses, it must be remembered that all cut off affected areas must be burned... Otherwise, they can infect other plants.

Proper planting and care is the key to the abundant and long-lasting flowering of these royal flowers. Those who decide to grow climbing roses on their site will never regret it.

Planting and caring for climbing roses

Rose climbing planting and care in the open field photo. Climbing roses include types of rose hips, as well as several varieties of garden roses, branching with rather long stems. They are directly related to the genus Rosehip. And these plants are very popular in vertical gardening of various structures, buildings and walls, and arbors.

Such flowers can decorate both a large structure and a very small one. These plants are widely used to create various structures in the garden, namely, columns, gazebos, pyramids, garlands, as well as arches. And they are also remarkably combined with other plants, in this regard, their popularity is no less than that of a room or bush rose.

Rose climbing planting and care in the open field photo

Planting climbing roses in open ground

So, before planting, the seedling needs to shorten the branches, up to about 20 cm in length, the roots, too, up to 30 cm. Dig a spacious hole so that the roots have room to grow. The depth of the pit should be 60-70 cm.

If you are planting several bushes, then the distance between them should be at least 100 cm. When immersing the seedling in the soil, make sure that the root collar is also buried 12-15 cm - this will protect it from frost in the cold season. The roots are gently straightened, covered with soil, slightly compacted with your hands. Make sure that all the roots are directed downwards and do not bend upwards!

Planting a climbing rose in spring provides for the introduction of nutritious soil into the hole. About 3-5 kg, for example, peat compost, will appeal to your rose. After planting, the soil is trampled down a little and watered abundantly.

It will be very good if you add a preparation with beneficial bacteria that stimulates growth, for example, "Phosphobacterin" to the water for this first watering. The Heteroauxin phytohormone is also great.

In some cases, summer residents cover newly planted bushes with plastic wrap - this technique contributes to better adaptation of plants in a new place.

It is up to you to decide whether to do it or not, if the weather conditions in your region push you to create greenhouse conditions for climbing roses, then do not forget to raise the film daily and gradually increase the airing time every day. NS

After stable warm weather is established, remove the film and cover the ground around the bushes with leaf humus, peat, chopped bark or straw.

When to plant climbing roses

Rose climbing planting and care in the open field photo. If planting is planned in spring (this is especially true for self-rooted roses), then the best time for this event is from mid-April to the third decade of May, when the soil warms up to + 10-12C.

Before planting, the shoots of the seedlings are cut to 20-30 cm, while leaving 3-4 strong shoots on each bush. After planting, the soil under the bushes is watered, hilled and covered with foil. It needs to be opened every day to ventilate the seedlings, gradually increasing the intervals. This is how young roses are hardened.

After the threat of frost is over, the shelter can be removed.

Also, when choosing a planting date, it is worth considering the peculiarities of the variety of the plant being planted. Some varieties, despite early planting, bloom later.

How to care for a climbing rose

The correct cultivation of this horticultural crop guarantees compliance with four rules:

• Regular watering, which should not be excessive.
• Seasonal top dressing - without them, the plant will wither.
• Shrubs should be protected from diseases and pest attacks.
• Another necessary procedure is loosening the soil.

Take care of these beauties, and lush and large buds will delight you throughout the summer.

What should be competent watering - one of the main conditions for proper care of climbing roses in the garden? In the absence of precipitation, flowers should be watered every 10-12 days. Moisture must penetrate deep into the ground, nourishing the roots.

On the second or third day after abundant watering, the soil must be thoroughly cultivated. A good alternative to the loosening procedure is mulching.

Support for climbing roses

Arch.

Arches are erected at the entrance to the site, to the gazebo, house or some area of ​​the park. A do-it-yourself rose arch is usually made of wood or metal. The tree always looks great among flowers, it is used to support massive stems, and metal structures are often twisted with thin delicate shoots.

Wooden arches covered with varnish or paint can last more than 10 years, and metal arches at least 15 years.

Trellis.

The trellis is placed against the wall or in the middle of the garden, separating different zones. It can be just a rectangular structure, consisting of a sturdy frame, usually wooden, and a lattice located (fixed) within this frame.

Summer residents usually use metal wire or wooden planks for the lattice, which look great among the greenery of the rose, if painted with white paint. Less commonly, plastic purchased gratings are used.

The trellises are arranged in the form of a fan or give them a bizarre shape, which the rose bush itself acquires, hiding the trellis under it.

Pillar.

The pillar as a support for roses can be of any height, be in the middle of a flower garden, thus placing it in two planes, or it can stand near a bench or a gazebo, delighting the eyes of the resting owners and arousing the envy of their guests.

In parks, they make an excellent composition, placing the pillars at the same distance from each other along an alley or path, connecting them with a beautifully sagging rope or chain. Roses, twisting pillars, picturesquely hang from these chains in blooming garlands.

When to prune climbing roses

Rose climbing planting and care in the open field photo. Autumn pruning of climbing roses can be started only when the air temperature at night stably stays at around minus three degrees - for the middle lane, this time coincides with the end of October.

Pruning earlier can help promote bud development, leading to the death of the shoots in winter. Pruning should not be carried out even in August, since the shoots that have appeared will not have time to woody before frost and will die.

The frozen branch will then thaw and become a breeding ground for fungi.

At the end of July, stop feeding climbing roses with nitrogen compounds;

Increase the application of potash and phosphorus fertilizers - the former will help to strengthen the root system of the plant and the faster ripening of existing shoots, and phosphorus will give nutrition to future buds;

After the last feeding, you need to stop removing flowers - this measure will help prevent the growth of new buds.

Growing climbing roses from seeds

To grow roses from seeds, a number of requirements must be met. First of all, the collected grains should be laid out in a sieve and dipped in hydrogen peroxide solution for twenty minutes. This is necessary so that mold does not form on them during storage.

With a solution of peroxide, you can process gauze, on which you then lay out the seeds, covering them on top with a cloth soaked in the same product. After that, the material prepared for storage should be transferred to a plastic bag and placed in the vegetable section of the refrigerator.

Planting roses with seeds is a very laborious process. Regularly, every ten to fifteen days, you need to check the condition of the grains. At the first sign of mold, they should be soaked again in hydrogen peroxide.

After that, the seeds must be wrapped in a new cotton or gauze swab, placed in a clean bag and put in the refrigerator. One and a half to two months after laying, as a rule, the first shoots appear.

Reproduction of a climbing rose by cuttings

It is more difficult to propagate a climbing rose by cuttings, but you can get more seedlings. It is better to do this in the summer, in mid-June, when the cuttings are quite soft.

The amount of work and costs will depend on how many seedlings are needed.

For example, to get 10 climbing rose seedlings, you will need:

• 10 plastic cups, 0.5 l each;
• 10 plastic containers with a volume of 1 liter;
• about 5 kg of soil and river sand.

The cups are filled with a mixture of sand and soil, and from above they are covered with liter containers, with their bottoms turned upside down to create a "greenhouse" effect.

Cuttings do not need to be cut large, two internodes will be enough. Next, the stalk should be stripped of leaves, leaving only a couple on the crown and placed in nutrient soil (in a glass or in a greenhouse) and watered. When propagating a climbing rose by cuttings, it is important to remember that the soil (even in a greenhouse, even in glasses) must be constantly slightly moist.

Usually in mid-September, cuttings form good roots and they can be planted either in a permanent place or on a bed with loose and nutritious soil in order to grow another season, and then transplant.

Reproduction of a climbing rose by layering

In this way, almost all types of roses can be propagated, and first of all ground cover and climbing roses. In early spring, an annual stem is folded back from the bush. In that part of it, which will be in the ground, a small incision is made in the bark directly at the eye (this stimulates the formation of the root).

Then the stem is bent to the ground, laid in a groove 10 cm deep, pinned, covered with fertile soil and watered well. The top of the stem, with two to three buds, should be upright above the ground.

To stimulate tillering, the stem is pinched during growth.The next spring, the cuttings can already be separated from the mother bush and transplanted for growing in a special school or to a permanent place in the garden.

Grafting climbing roses

Rose climbing planting and care in the open field photo. Roses are planted on rose hips for only one purpose: as quickly as possible (in 1-2 years) and cheaper to obtain and sell standard winter-hardy rose seedlings. And self-rooted roses can be brought to such a standard only in 2-3 years, which is less profitable for producers due to the rise in the cost of seedlings due to the increase in their cost.

In addition, self-rooted roses are obtained by cutting off a stalk with three buds, and only one bud is used for grafting a rose hip, which is much more profitable for growers.

Grafted climbing roses, planted in such a way that the grafting site is above the soil surface, are short-lived compared to their own rooted ones, since rose hips are a deciduous plant, and cultivated roses are evergreen. During the growing season of grafted roses, such a discrepancy between the scion and rootstock leads to a gradual depletion of the entire plant.

Climbing rose pests and diseases

Diseases of climbing roses - powdery mildew. A powdery, grayish bloom appears on chalked leaves and stems. Gradually, it becomes denser and black fruiting bodies of the wintering stage of the fungus are formed there.

The leaves turn brown and dry prematurely, young shoots are deformed, the buds often do not open and dry out. The causative agent of the disease hibernates in the affected shoots and buds. In spring, young leaves and shoots are infected.

The development of the disease is facilitated by high air humidity (80 - 95%), sudden temperature fluctuations, drying out or waterlogging of the soil, excess nitrogen fertilizers.

Climbing rose diseases - black spot. On the upper side of the leaves, many rounded spots of purple-brown or almost black color with a yellow halo, 5-15 mm in size, are formed. The same spots can be found on young annual shoots. The spots merge, and, covering almost the entire leaf, cause premature abscission.

Diseases of climbing roses - gray rot. With this disease, rotting and death of stems, young shoots, buds, leaves occurs. The buds dry up. In damp, cool or moderately warm weather, diseased parts of the plants become covered with gray spores. Infection hibernates in plant debris and on affected parts of plants.

Pests of climbing roses are thrips. These are very small insects of pale yellow or brown color. Females lay eggs in plant tissues, larvae emerge from the eggs, two stages of which feed on the sap of young leaves and petals. Each female can lay up to 300 eggs.

Pests of climbing roses are spider mites. Having settled on the underside of the leaves, the mites damage them by sucking the sap and wrapping them in cobwebs. The leaves take on a silvery hue. During the summer, up to 12 generations are formed.

Pests of climbing roses - rose sawfly. A shiny black insect, 10 - 15 mm long, with two pairs of transparent membranous wings. Larvae are pale green larvae with a red head. In spring, the rosaceous sawfly lays eggs under the skin at the end of the shoot or in the leaf axils.

Rose climbing planting and care in the open field video

The best varieties of climbing roses and design ideas

Rose climbing planting and care in the open field photo and video.

Where to buy seeds and seedlings with delivery

The Scientific and Production Association "Sady Rossii" has been introducing the latest achievements in the selection of vegetable, fruit, berry and ornamental crops into the wide practice of amateur gardening for 30 years.

In the work of the association, the most modern technologies are used, a unique laboratory for microclonal reproduction of plants has been created.

The main task of NPO Sady Rossii is to provide gardeners with high-quality planting material for popular varieties of various garden plants and novelties of world selection.Delivery of planting material (seeds, bulbs, seedlings) is carried out by Russian post.

We are waiting for you to shop at the Sady Rossii NPO.

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How to grow a climbing rose?

Any, even the most unsightly corner of the garden, can be decorated with climbing (curly) roses. They will create a romantic atmosphere, will delight you with flowering almost throughout the entire warm season. In order for these beautiful plants to fully reveal their potential, it is necessary to provide the appropriate conditions.

Every plant needs at least minimal maintenance. Such gorgeous beauties like climbing roses will need to be given special attention. Knowing all the nuances, following a series of simple steps, you will achieve long and abundant flowering.

Landing place

Climbing roses care and cultivation Where to plant a climbing rose photo

Illumination

Curly roses are light-requiring. In case of insufficient light, new shoots will develop poorly and will not bloom this season. Avoid exposure to direct sunlight during midday hours - their intense exposure can provoke burns. Choose a place so that at this time the bushes are out of the zone of influence of the sun. It is good if the site is flooded with sunlight in the morning. Dew will quickly evaporate from the leaves, which will serve as protection against viral diseases.

Comfortable conditions

• The corners of buildings are not suitable for planting climbing roses - they do not tolerate drafts well.
• Do not plant in damp, waterlogged areas.
• Avoid areas where roses used to grow.
• So that moisture does not stagnate in the soil, it is better to make a bed with a slope. The rhizome goes deep into the soil by about 2 m: with constantly high humidity, make high beds.

Climbing roses need support. They are often planted along the walls of buildings. To prevent the root system from depleting, you should step back from the wall at least 60 cm. Other possible supports: fence, mesh, pergola, arch, special posts, cones.

Site preparation

Fertile loamy soil with good drainage is ideal for growing climbing roses. Heavy loams and pure sand are contraindicated. Clay soil should be diluted with sand, and clay should be added to sandy soil. A small amount of garden lime is recommended. Also, to increase the fertility of the soil for digging the site, they make: humus, phosphorus fertilizers, special soil bacteria (phosphorobacterin).

Prepare the site a couple of months before planting. It should be dug up several times, add the appropriate additives.

When is it better to plant climbing roses: in spring or autumn?

How to plant a climbing rose in spring photo

For regions with a temperate climate, autumn planting (late September-early October) is preferable. Within two weeks, they will already give roots and have time to get stronger before the onset of cold weather. In the spring, the rhizome and aerial part will grow. The bush will gain strength, become lush, will delight with flowering.

In the northern regions, planting climbing roses should be done in the spring, because when they are planted in the fall, they will not have time to take root and may die in winter.

When planting in spring, climbing roses lag behind in the pace of development by about half a month, and require increased attention. It is necessary to cut the seedlings into 3 buds before planting.

Preparing seedlings for planting

Choose healthy seedlings. The trunk should be whitish-green, not brown or gray.

Bushes from the nursery need preliminary preparation before planting:

• Soak the seedlings in water for a day.
• Then completely cut off diseased and damaged roots, shorten healthy ones by about 15 cm.
• Remove the broken branches, the rest should be shortened by 15-20 cm.
• Treat the cut sites with a fungicide.
• Soak in growth stimulant solution.

Thanks to these measures, the bushes will successfully root, will actively grow, and will give a lush flowering.

If the rose seedlings are already pruned (sold in a package), you do not need to prune them additionally.

Planting a climbing rose in the ground

Planting climbing roses outdoors is actually the simplest operation that even a beginner in gardening can perform.

Planting pit preparation

Sufficient space is required for the full development of the root system. Make the holes free, the optimal depth will be 60-65 cm. When planting, keep a distance of at least 1 meter between individual plants.

Add the nutrient mixture to each planting hole (peat compost is perfect).

How to properly plant a climbing rose

• Spread the roots of the seedling loosely in the hole.
• Cover the voids between the roots with soil.
• Pour about 10 liters of warm water under each bush.
• Fill the remaining space with soil.
• Deepen the root collar into the soil by 10-12 cm. This will additionally protect the seedling from frost.

Supports for climbing roses photo

The support installed for the subsequent fastening of the bush should not interfere with the normal development of the root system. For portable support, special lattices, tripods, trellises are used.

How to make a support with your own hands

You can easily make tripods yourself: knock down wooden beams about 2.5-3 m long.Arches look spectacular as a support. If you plant 2 bushes on both sides, by the end of the second year, curly lashes with the most delicate inflorescences will completely entwine them.

How to care for climbing roses outdoors

Watering

The delightful shrubs are drought tolerant. On the contrary, an excess of moisture leads to a depressed appearance, provokes the emergence of viral diseases. It is enough to water once a week, adding a small amount of water. It must be warm.

Top dressing

Young plants in the first year of growth do not need additional feeding - they have enough nutrients from the soil fertilized during planting.

• Start feeding from the second year. It is better to do this in the spring, since it is believed that fertilizing in summer and autumn prolongs the growing season, and green shoots are frozen over in winter. It is optimal to complete fertilization in the first half of August.
• Roses respond gratefully to organics. You can use mullein infusion, slurry, or special fertilizer for roses.
• From the third year of growth, you can use mineral fertilizers. In the spring, under each bush, apply 100-120 g of mineral complex fertilizer. Carry out the next top dressing at the end of flowering. Given the predisposition to organic matter, in the fall, apply 1 kg of compost per 1 m² for digging row spacings.

How to cut a climbing rose: video and photo

Climbing (curly) roses are conventionally divided into 4 varieties that require appropriate pruning. For any variety, the first pruning must be done immediately after planting. Leave the shoots about 30 cm long. In the future, take into account the characteristics of each.

Climbing roses that bloom on last year's stems

How to cut and tie climbing roses photo

From the second year of growth, to form a beautiful bush, new stems are cut as needed. In the fall, old shoots that have bloomed this year should be cut off. For the skeleton, leave 1-2 last year's shoots. Shorten the side shoots on them to 10 cm from the base (by 2-3 buds).

Climbing roses that form a small number of new shoots

How to trim climbing roses photo

Most of the growths appear on old stems. Only weak or diseased branches need pruning; faded buds are also cut into two buds. Old stems are completely cut out as new ones appear.

Climbing roses that bloom on the shoots of the current year

How to properly crop a climbing rose photo

Shorten dead shoots by 2-3 buds. Weak, diseased branches must be removed completely.

Climbing roses with a pyramidal crown shape, giving flowering on the growths of the current year

How to cut climbing roses correctly photo

They differ from the previous group by moderate growth rates. Faded shoots are cut in the same way. In addition, to maintain the symmetry of the bush, you should cut out several main shoots that are out of sight.

How to tie a climbing rose

Support for a climbing rose do it yourself photo

Pruning stimulates the growth of new branches - they should be guided (tied up), giving the chosen shape to your bush. It is undesirable for all the lashes to be horizontal (they were directed only upward). In this case, the buds will appear only at the tops.

• To make the bush bloom magnificently, use any garter method.
• Fan the stems, leaving the side shoots untied. They will stretch freely up and to the sides.
• You can arrange the main shoots horizontally by tying them to a support. New side branches will rush upward, creating a blooming cloud.
• Guide the shoots around the support and tie in a spiral if you want the lashes to wrap around a post or arch.

Shelter climbing roses for the winter

Preparing bushes for wintering

Unfortunately, climbing roses cannot boast of high frost resistance. Careful work will be required to preserve the bushes in the winter.

At the beginning of autumn, reduce watering, stop loosening the soil and cutting off the faded buds so as not to stimulate growth. It is recommended to apply the Osennee granular fertilizer. At the end of September, carefully remove the shoots from the supports - they should bend to the ground under their own weight. Prune to leave 11-12 healthy and strong shoots.

Pruning

Herbaceous unripe shoots also need to be cut off - treat the cuts with brilliant green. Tear off the lower leaves completely together with the petioles. After a day, dry sand should be poured into the middle of the bush (1 bucket is enough for young bushes, 2-3 for adults). Leave it on for a couple of days. Then remove all the remaining leaves, treat the bush with a 3% solution of ferrous sulfate.

Removal from supports and shelter

• Perform all work in dry weather.
• In regions with mild winters, you can not remove from the support - cover the bushes with spruce branches, then wrap with foil.
• If the winters in your region are harsh, be sure to remove the branches from the supports. Gather the shoots into a bunch and tie. With the air temperature lowered to -5 ° C, gently bend them to the ground, secure with pegs or staples. Cover with spruce branches, then wrap with thick foil or agrofiber.

In the spring, it is very important to remove the shelter in a timely manner. Without access to fresh air and in a humid environment, the bushes can suffocate and start to hurt. At a stable air temperature of -3 ° C, open the shelter at the ends until the soil under the bush begins to thaw. Then you can remove the upper shelter, leave the spruce branches until the frost stops.

Diseases and pests

If you do not follow the agricultural technique of planting, it is wrong to care for the bushes, diseases may occur.

If diseases occur, all affected areas must be removed and burned so as not to provoke infection of other plants.

• Black spot is manifested by brown and black spots with a yellow rim, covering leaves, young shoots. Remove damaged parts, then feed with potassium and phosphate.
• When affected by powdery mildew, a whitish bloom can be found on the stems and leaves, the buds stop blooming. Cut out the affected areas. Treat the bush with a solution of iron and copper sulfate.
• The bumps and growths on the roots are bacterial cancer. The plant dries up and may die. Cut out the affected roots, treat the remaining ones with a solution of copper sulfate.

Possible pests: spider mites, aphids, scale insects, rose sawfly, leafworm. Bushes must be treated with a fungicidal agent.

How to get rid of aphids on roses, look at the video:

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Climbing roses in landscape design photo

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Climbing roses in garden design photo

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Climbing rose in the design of the yard photo

Climbing roses in the design of the yard photo