Bearded iris planting in spring and outdoor care

Irises are a popular garden crop with spectacular flowering and unpretentious nature. Many gardeners are interested in planting and caring for irises in the open field. Velvet multicolored irises are a perennial plant that serves as a real decoration for a flower garden or flower bed.

Irises - description and features of culture

Irises are short perennials of the rhizome genus. Translated from Greek, the word Iris means rainbow. Indeed, more than 700 types of irises are known, differing in size, shape, structure and color of the flower. Outwardly, the iris flower stalk is similar to an orchid, the color of the petals is very diverse - from white and pale to rich and bright. In some varieties, the peduncle is painted with two, three or more flowers, and a peculiar pattern is applied to the lower petals.

The beginning of flowering of irises is May and June, the lush flowering can continue until the end of June. In the fall, the iris can bloom again - in August and September.

The culture has an extensive geography around the world, with some varieties found in the harsh climate of the Northern Hemisphere. In nature, there are rhizome and bulbous irises, which outwardly are absolutely similar to each other. Rhizome irises are stable and unpretentious, winter well and are not afraid of cold weather. Bulbous varieties require a little more care and attention. The wild flower iris has long been loved by flower growers and has become urban. You should learn everything about the care and planting of irises in open ground.

Rules for planting irises in open ground

Rhizome irises prefer a well-lit area where they will bloom beautifully for a long time. For the free spread of the roots, irises need space - at least half a meter from each other. All species love loose, nutrient-rich and oily soil. Planting irises in the spring in the ground is carried out after the compost and potassium-phosphorus fertilizers have been introduced. It is not recommended to apply manure.

Soil moisture for each variety needs its own:

bearded iris is best planted in a fan on the slopes so that there is a good outflow of rain and melt water;
Siberian iris and marsh iris are best grown where it is always damp - near water bodies and in partial shade.

The area for irises is dug up, treated with fungicides against harmful insects, and herbicides to reduce weed growth. For rhizome irises, a neutral soil is preferred. If the soil is acidic, you should mix it with ash, lime or chalk. When planting, the upper bud remains on the surface of the soil, it is not buried.

Rhizome varieties - how to plant irises in spring:

A hole is dug under the root, in the center of which a small mound is poured.
The central root should be placed on a mound, and the lateral roots should be distributed to the sides.
The main rhizome is sprinkled with earth, a layer of sand is applied on top, the earth is slightly compacted.
The roots should not be buried too deep, they should be located close to the soil surface.
Let the central kidney remain free of the earth - above its surface.

Experienced flower growers recommend planting irises in the open ground in spring and summer. During the warm season, the plants have time to fully take root in the soil, due to which they winter without loss and begin to bloom the next year.

Bulbous irises - planting and care in the open field:

The bulbs are planted in early spring or autumn before frost.
The soil temperature for planting must be at least 10 °, otherwise the bulbs may freeze.
A shallow trench is dug, the bulbs go deeper into the trench by 3-4 cm, no more.
The total planting depth should be about 10-12 cm.
The excavated soil is mixed with garden soil for nutrition, river sand and crushed coal for drainage, with double superphosphate for growth.
The prepared grooves are disinfected by spilling with a solution of potassium permanganate, and a growth stimulator to strengthen the roots.
Iris bulbs are planted sprout up, not too deep, at a sufficient distance from each other - 15-20 cm.
The soil is poured on top, which should be lightly tamped so that the bulbs do not crawl out to the surface.
Re-watering is necessary only after 3-4 days.

Excessive root deepening harms the growth and development of irises, while the soil should not be heavy. For loosening, compost, peat and coarse sand are added to the soil.

Small-bulbous varieties of irises are not demanding on moisture. They are buried three times the height of the bulb, and their flowering begins next spring.

Iris care - basics and secrets

According to experienced flower growers, irises are strong and viable plants that grow and bloom well without fertilization. However, in the third year of life, it is recommended to pamper the flower with a step-by-step complex feeding - in the spring, during the budding period and after flowering. In response to care, the plant will become stronger and stronger, it will grow faster and bloom more abundantly.

Irises - care in spring:

top dressing in a ratio of 2: 1: 1 - nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium;
watering depending on the surrounding weather conditions.

During the budding period, fertilizing should be carried out at a ratio of 3: 1: 3 - nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium. In this case, watering and spraying are carried out as needed. A month after the end of flowering, it is recommended to apply top dressing in a 1: 1 ratio - phosphorus plus potassium. In the autumn, before wintering, dry mineral fertilizer should be applied in a tablespoon, scattering it under each root of the plant.

Irises should be watered at the root when the soil around the bush is completely dry. After planting, the plant is watered only three days later.

How to feed irises in spring:

if a lack of minerals is noticed, then mineral dressing should be applied personally for each bush;
in early spring, a complex nitrogen-potassium-phosphorus fertilizer for flowers is useful for a plant.

Prevention of diseases and pests includes sanitary pruning of dead plant parts, timely removal of wilted flower stalks, regular spraying and shower, cleaning the beds from fallen leaves. In the open field, the planting of irises is weeded by hand, the soil is loosened with care and watered as needed. Before winter, the rhizomes are sprinkled with earth and covered, since they are located close to the surface itself and can freeze.

How and when to transplant irises

Irises can be planted in three ways - rhizomes, shoots and grown from seeds. Getting plants from seeds is the longest and most difficult way. In practice, it is much easier and faster to grow flowers by dividing the bush and branches. At the same time, plants grown from rhizomes will bloom the next year, and seed plantings will have to wait another 2-3 years.

How and when to transplant irises:

the best time for transplanting is early spring, that is, March-April, before flowering;
flowers are propagated by dividing rhizomes and sprouts.

Transplanting irises in spring to another place is carried out using only healthy and strong plants that will take root quickly and without problems. The rhizomes are removed from the ground and divided into parts so that each individual root rosette has one leaf bud. Excess foliage should be trimmed. Before planting, the roots are dipped in a potassium permanganate solution for disinfection for several minutes. Dried rhizomes are planted in shallow trenches or small planting holes at a distance of 50-60 cm from each other.

When propagating vegetatively, the iris should bloom at least once. After that, until the moment of budding, young shoots can be taken from it. New plants should be rooted from March to May in a shaded place, creating greenhouse conditions. Full rooting can be observed after 2-3 weeks.

Irises can be grown from seeds. In autumn, seeds are sown in a pot with a sandy substrate, covered with plastic or glass. By spring, the seeds will sprout, they are dived and planted in open ground. When to plant irises outdoors in spring? The optimal time for planting in the ground is early spring, the month of March and April. By this time, young plantings have already grown up enough, they will be able to quickly and fully take root in the ground.

Irises in landscape design

The high decorative qualities of irises allow them to be planted in flower beds and mixborders, along fences, in flower beds and rockeries. The ideal place for them is on a hill, where there is no stagnation of moisture, and there is no close adhesion of groundwater. There are short and tall types of irises. Tall plants are usually tied up so that they do not break and hold the bud well. Dwarf irises grow in a solid wall and require periodic pruning and watering in dry weather.

Irises in landscape design photo:

Knowing the rules of planting and caring for irises in the open field will make it easy and simple to grow these plants in your garden plot. When you see an iris, you do not want to pick it at all, you want to admire it endlessly, inhaling the delicate and delicate aroma of a flower.

Such different irises on the site - video

Flowers Rezepov V.

2014-12-01 Bearded irises.

The oldest image of an iris flower was found in the palace of Minos in Knossos, and later the iris became a sacred flower in Crete. In the 20th century, bearded irises were recognized by flower growers in the USA, Japan, Canada, Western Europe, as well as Australia and New Zealand.

In the professional literature for flower growers, you can often find the statement that irises are undemanding to the food structure. But, these recommendations were developed during the introduction of the ancient varieties of bearded irises - Wabash, Lilac Domino and the like. These types of irises had small flowers, as a rule, no more than 5-7 buds per peduncle. Further, such recommendations were reprinted from edition to edition, practically without being subjected to critical comprehension of the authors.

Modern varieties of bearded irises require a different cultivation technique. For example, varieties of tall bearded irises have, by the beginning of flowering, a developed bush with a powerful peduncle with a diameter of more than 15 mm. Flowers, as a rule, are very large, there may be more than 10 buds.

It is possible to develop such a vegetative and generative system in a short period of time (40–50 days) only if the plants are well supplied with nutrients. Considering that it is often quite difficult for a novice florist to obtain objective data on agrochemical soil analysis, it is appropriate to recall the statement of the founder of Russian agrochemistry, DN Pryanishnikov: “Lack of knowledge cannot be replaced by an excess of fertilizers”.

In central Russia, bearded irises have several development cycles, during the growing season they manage to pass the maximum growth rate twice and, at the same time, do not have a natural dormant period.Taking into account the peculiarities of the development of plants in a particular growing season, it is possible to choose the optimal scheme for providing them with nutrients.

Choosing a site for planting and soil composition

Bearded irises of all kinds require neutral or slightly alkaline soil. It should be moisture permeable, it can be stony. A slightly inclined plane is especially good. They do not tolerate poorly permeable water and clay, acidic soil. Dwarf irises need a particularly permeable soil, preferably limestone. Coarse sand should be added to too heavy and dense soil.

The choice of the landing site is very important. Under trees, in a shady place, irises will not bloom. They need the sun so much that they simply live in poverty when their rhizomes are shaded by overgrown neighboring plants. In the fall, irises need as much sun as possible to lay next year's flower buds.

When and how to plant bearded irises

The best time to plant, divide and transplant all bearded irises is after flowering, when new roots begin to grow. They are visible as greenish-yellow tubercles on the rhizome below the base of the leaves. When these tubercles - the rudiments of roots - germinate, they are very fragile and usually break off during transplantation, and new ones are formed only the next year. Therefore, it is necessary to replant irises either at a time when new roots have not yet developed, or in the fall, when they become fibrous and tough.

If irises are planted in autumn, it is necessary to compact the soil well around the plant and cover them slightly so that they do not freeze in winter. Well-rooted irises do not need shelter.

When planting, they first make a small depression with a mound in the middle, place an iris on it, spread the roots evenly, cover them with earth, compacting it well with your hands around the plant. Delenki are placed shallow so that the rhizomes are warmed up by the sun. If the roots are fresh and the ground is moist, then you do not need to water.

Care for bearded irises

Bearded iris, like no other flower, requires daily care: weeding, trimming leaves and faded flowers.

Bearded irises store water and nutrients in their rhizomes. Therefore, they need watering only when the soil is extremely dry, and also when a small seedling with a poorly developed rhizome is planted.

The roots are located first in the surface layer of the soil and only then deepen. That is why loosen the soil around the irises very carefully. In the early years, the ends of the roots branch out and form fine root hairs. In the third year, they usually stop growing, but remain active, assimilating nutrients.

Each year, not only new roots are formed on the side of the old faded shoots, but also the links of the rhizome - the iris grows farther and wider. Only the outer shoots bloom, while the inner ones (along with their roots) gradually wither, dry up and die off. In doing so, they reach the surface layer and are often intertwined with each other. As a result, a solid plexus of dead rhizomes forms in the middle of the iris bush. Then it is urgently required to separate and seat them. This is usually done after 3-4 years. Division can be postponed if the old, leafless links of the rhizome are broken and removed. Then free space is created in the middle of the bush.

Dwarf irises can stay in one place for up to 10 years, in contrast to tall bearded ones. Iris should be planted in the third or fifth year. It depends on the nature and rate of aging of a particular variety, but when flowering weakened, it must be rejuvenated. When replanting, a new place in the garden is selected, where the soil is not depleted and is not infected with diseases inherent in irises. If it is necessary to plant in the same place, the soil should be replaced with fresh soil.

At the end of summer, old leaves begin to die off, but not all varieties are equally fast.In August, all leaves that have dried outside should be torn off. The remaining inner leaves can be cut in half or a third. Irises will look green and tidy, but most importantly, diseases will not develop on old dying leaves.

If dwarf and medium-sized irises do not require shelter for the winter, then tall ones should be covered. Dry oak foliage is best suited for this (or whatever is at your disposal, but mice do not live in oak), then lay spruce branches, and on top with a film (lutrasil). Only in this way will your tall bearded irises survive our cold winter and bloom next year.

Feeding bearded irises

There are different opinions on this topic. Some say that iris does not need fertilizers at all, while others recommend a whole range of dressings. The only purpose of fertilization is to replace the missing nutrients in the soil.

Soils are different everywhere, and therefore fertilizers are applied depending on their composition. Thus, it is advisable to do a soil analysis. The acidity indicator is very important for the selection and placement of plants in the garden.

Iris should not be overfed with nitrogen fertilizers; fresh manure and undecomposed compost should be avoided.

Fertilizers are usually applied after flowering, preferably mineral fertilizers with a minimum nitrogen content. Irises respond very well to the introduction of wood ash - the flowers become brighter and larger. You can add old, well-rotted humus or compost.

As a rule, feeding is carried out three times per season: the first time in the spring at the beginning of regrowth, the second at the beginning of budding, and the third time 10-15 days after flowering. The first and second dressings are nitrogen-potassium (20-30 g of ammonium sulfate or ammonium nitrate per 1 m2 and the same amount of potassium chloride), the third is phosphorus-potassium (50 g of superphosphate per 1 m2). Top dressing is carried out on wet soil with its subsequent loosening.

Top dressing in spring

The growth of the leaf apparatus in irises in central Russia begins in mid-April. Due to the low soil temperature, mineralization processes at this time proceed slowly, which leads to a low concentration of available nitrogen in the soil. Therefore, at this time, fertilizing plantings with nitrogen in a nitrate form is relevant.

Nitrate fertilizers include sodium nitrate (NaNO3), calcium nitrate (Ca (NO3) 2), potassium nitrate (KNO3). On sandy soils and former peat bogs during this period, it is advisable to apply potash fertilizers, which ensures better assimilation of nitrogen by irises.

Such feeding contributes to the "start of the race" in the development of the leaf apparatus, an increase in the size of peduncles and flowers.

The introduction of phosphorus fertilizers in early spring is ineffective, since phosphorus is extremely poorly absorbed by plants at low soil temperatures. In addition, it is impossible to influence the quality of inflorescences at the moment, since these properties in the bud have already formed in the previous year.

After the end of flowering, the second maximum of the intensity of development of bearded irises occurs, which is characterized by an active increase in lateral growths. This phase of development also requires a good supply of plants with nitrogen nutrition - it is necessary for the successful formation of young rhizomes. During this period, it is advisable to add nitrogen in the ammonium form. Ammonia fertilizers include ammonium sulfate and ammonium chloride.

Top dressing in summer

In summer, fertilizers in the ammonium form are superior to nitrate fertilizers for two reasons. First, ammonium nitrogen, in contrast to nitrate nitrogen, is directly used for the synthesis of amino acids and proteins. Nitrate nitrogen is included in the metabolism only after its reduction to the ammonia form. Secondly, ammonium nitrogen is almost not washed out from the root distribution zone.

Note that the above recommendation - to increase nitrogen nutrition during the period of the beginning of the formation of lateral increments (for central Russia this is mid-June - mid-July) does not coincide with those given in publications on iris cultivation.

In the second phase of intensive development of irises, along with the growth of rhizomes of lateral growths, the rudiments of future inflorescences are formed. The formation of future generative organs can successfully proceed only against the background of a good supply of plants with phosphorus. The end of the second maximum of irises development coincides with the beginning of the deterioration of the factors of their life.

Top dressing in autumn

The successful survival of plants in the autumn-winter period is facilitated by an increase in the concentration of soluble carbohydrates in the cell sap of their organs. The process of accumulation of soluble carbohydrates actively proceeds with the optimal supply of the plant with phosphorus and potassium. All this indicates the need for phosphorus fertilization of irises when they enter the second phase of intensive development.

Preparing bearded irises for wintering

Should you cover plantings of bearded irises for the winter? This question can hardly be answered unequivocally; here, perhaps, the principle "do no harm!" On the one hand, the shelter gives an obvious advantage - it reduces the likelihood of damage to plants by low temperatures. At the same time, pre-winter shelter, especially performed unskilled, has a number of negative aspects:

rodents and pests find shelter under cover;
deterioration in air circulation contributes to the development of diseases;
during thaws, the covering material can become a moisture accumulator, which, with a subsequent decrease in temperature, will turn into an ice crust, which, in turn, can lead to large losses of plants;
Shelter of iris plantings for the winter is a very laborious work, it is difficult to carry out it on large plantations.

According to observations, bearded iris is a "dry" plant, it tolerates a lack of moisture more easily than an excess of it. In this regard, in late autumn, it is useful to cover the plantings with plastic wrap to reduce excess moisture. In this case, it is important to ensure the natural circulation of air under the film. Remember that bearded irises do not have a natural rest period, they “do not fall asleep,” and the continuation of their vital activity is accompanied by breathing.

There is one more special trick for successful wintering of irises. This is the sowing of winter cereals (for example, rye) directly on their plantings, followed by harvesting in the spring. The resulting sod reduces the thermal conductivity of the soil, which has a beneficial effect on the condition of the irises.

Rezepov V.

What will we plant

Irises reproduce both vegetatively and by seeds. The second method is too complicated, you will have to wait 2-3 years for flowering. Why do you need such a hassle? This method is used at breeding stations to develop new varieties. If you still want to experiment and get a flower of an unusual shape or color, sow the seeds in early spring or autumn in a nursery. There, young plants will develop for 2 years, then you can plant them on a flower bed. In the northern regions, the grains do not have time to ripen before the onset of cold weather. If there is a threat of frost, cut the pods and keep them at home until the seeds are ripe.

To properly prepare the place, think about what kind of irises you will plant on the site. All varieties bloom well for 4 years, then they need to be transplanted. The Siberian species can live in one place for up to 10 years, but these flowers have a drawback: they do not fill the air with aroma. For bearded varieties, a soil with a good outflow of groundwater and rainwater is needed, they grow better on a hill, and marsh iris loves moisture, it is often placed near water bodies. You can plant bulbous varieties, they have a richer palette of colors, an interesting combination of colors. This species has one drawback: immediately after flowering, the bulbs must be dug up and stored all summer in a cool place, and in the fall they must be buried again in the ground. If the extra work doesn't scare you, enrich your flower garden with these plants.

The owners of summer cottages usually give preference to the cultivation of bearded irises and propagate them by dividing the rhizomes. If you want to start planting in the spring, take care of the preparation of the tubers in the fall. There are recommendations to divide the bushes at the end of September, but it will be correct to look not at the calendar, but at the plant. When the flowers wither, and the greenery and underground parts continue to develop, it's time to harvest the rhizomes. You may have to do this work several times: each variety has its own ripening time. Do not wait until all the bushes are ready, if you are late, the quality and vitality of the planting material will deteriorate.

Dig up the plant, shake off the ground and divide it into pieces. Each new seedling should have a bunch of leaves and an underground part of two annual links. At the rhizome of the main bush, cut off the dried parts and shorten the root processes by a third. Completely remove dry and damaged leaves from all fragments, and cut off the top half of the remaining feathers. Treat the underground part with a disinfectant solution, dry it, sprinkle the wounds from the cuts with crushed coal and sulfur and put it in a dark, cool room, where the seedlings will be stored until spring. Sometimes flower growers do it easier: before planting, they cut off part of the bush with a shovel and transfer it to a new place. In this case, there is a risk of damaging the plant, but usually both the main bush and the cut off fragment feel good.

Advice

The rhizomes of beardless irises may dry out during storage. This species overwinters well if the tubers are planted in a container with soil. In the spring, plant a seedling that has begun to develop along with a lump of soil.

Flower garden for irises

Irises love the sun - choose a place for a flower bed in a bright area protected from strong winds. Dig up and loosen the soil. If you want to create comfortable conditions for the flowers, get rid of the roots of weeds and larvae of pests, sift the soil through a large sieve. Soil moisture depends on the type of plant: bearded irises need soil with good drainage, while marsh and Siberian varieties prefer to grow in wet areas. On good soil, these flowers can develop without additional fertilizing, but if you decide to apply fertilizers or herbicides to the ground, the flower bed will be ready for planting only in a month.

If the land is not very suitable for growing irises, it can be improved.

Add potash and phosphorus fertilizers to the greasy soil.
If acidic, neutralize the soil with chalk or ash.
Add sand and peat to the loam.
A sandy flower bed can be improved with clay.

Dig holes 10 cm deep. The distance between the plants depends on the height of the aboveground part:

curb varieties - 15 cm;
irises of medium height - 20 cm;
high bushes - 50 cm.

If you are going to make a multi-tiered flower garden, plant the lowest varieties on the south side, and the highest on the north. The distance between the rows should be at least 70 cm, then all the bushes will have enough sunlight.

Spring planting of rhizomes

Rhizomes winter well under the snow, but if young bushes do not have time to get stronger, they may die. Therefore, planting irises in the spring is preferable to the fall.If you want to see flowering bushes this summer, hurry up with a flower bed. In the southern regions, the soil is ready at the end of March, in colder regions it can be planted in April or May, later it is not recommended. Rhizomes are very hardy, they will take root at any time, but the bush must have time to form and release flowers. The first summer, do not expect large lush inflorescences, the plant will enter full force only in the third year.

See the state of the rhizomes. Cut out diseased, damaged or rotten parts, shorten the long branches. Disinfect the planting material in a solution of potassium permanganate, and then treat it with a growth stimulant. Be sure to keep the planting material purchased on the market in a disinfectant solution: you do not know in what conditions the tubers grew and were stored.

Advice

If you are going to plant several rows of irises of the same height, make a slide from the bulk soil with a slope to the south. The rear bushes will be elevated and get enough light.

At the bottom of the holes, make a mound of sand and place the rhizome on it. When burying plantings, be careful not to confuse what type of flower is there. In beardless varieties, the rhizome and part of the stem should be underground, and not completely bury the tubers of bearded irises, the top should remain in the air. If you are planting varieties that need to be buried, cover the ground with a layer of mulch 5 cm thick. With a thinner backfill, the weeds will have enough strength to break through the compost, and they will happily attack the flower garden. Water the plantings well, this is necessary not only to moisten the soil, but also so that no air cavities remain around the roots. If the weather is too sunny, shade the plants in the early days.

When planting, keep in mind that this flower can move, and next year it will be a few centimeters from where you placed it. If, at the same time, the fans of the leaves are directed in different directions, the flower garden will look messy and unkempt. Place the bunches in one direction, it is better that they are turned along the row, and the flowerbed will immediately take on a decorated look.

Caring for young plantings will not cause much trouble. If you have properly prepared the ground, the flowers will not need feeding at first. Abundant watering will be needed for plants only when the buds begin to set, moisten before that when the top layer of the soil becomes completely dry. Weeding will take most of the time: the root system is located at a shallow depth, and rough tools can damage it. Remove weeds by hand with a small hoe. To prevent diseases, spray the bushes with Bordeaux liquid, and treat pests with karbofos.

Conclusion

Irises will take root well and give abundant flowering if, when planting, you take into account the peculiarities of each species. Some can grow in moist soil, while others need soil without stagnant water. There is a general requirement for all varieties of these plants: they all love the sun, and do not bloom well in shaded areas.

It is very difficult to weed a flower bed, with a hoe you will damage the roots of bearded irises, which are located on the surface. To make it easier for yourself, sift the soil in the flower garden or spill it with herbicides. After the introduction of chemical compounds, the rhizomes can be planted only after a month. Many species do not tolerate waterlogged soil, it is advisable to arrange a flower garden on an embankment, you can also make good drainage or add a hydrogel to the ground. Do not be afraid that caring for irises will take you a lot of time, if you plant the rhizomes correctly, the flowers will not require much trouble from you.

Hello! Irises - planting and care, growing in the open field in our material. Iris is a rhizome perennial with xiphoid leaves with a waxy bloom and thin, fibrous roots.Multicolored iris flowers (petal color - from white to dark purple) outwardly similar to orchids, have a pleasant weak aroma.

Some varieties of garden irises have a beard on the lower petals.

Iris bloom begins in May and lasts until June: each individual flower remains decorative for about a week.

The seeds of the plant ripen in autumn, in triangular capsules that contain 25 to 45 seeds.

Irises varieties

Types of irises

There are the main varieties of irises that are grown in summer cottages, in open ground in parks and squares, and are used when arranging compositions in landscape design.

Bearded iris

The species got its name for the decorative "beard" that adorns the lower petals of the flower in the middle. The color of the flowers of the bearded iris varies from pale blue to dark purple.

Breeders have bred a huge number of new varieties of bearded iris, including two-color ones with edged petals.

These varieties are very decorative, compact, with large flowers and an exciting aroma.

This species is divided into three subspecies, depending on the height of the plant:

✿ Low-growing - plant height does not exceed 40 cm;
✿ Medium - plants reach a height of 70 cm;
✿ Tall - over 70 cm.

Iris Russian

This species forms low dense "cushions" - curtains.

Russian iris blooms with medium-sized flowers of pale colors.

It perfectly tolerates short-term drying out of the soil.

In landscape design, it is used to decorate rocky slides and rock gardens, where rare watering is required.

Siberian iris

This is a tall plant, reaching a height of 1 m.

The flowers are rich, purple with shades of blue.

Siberian iris and its hybrids bred by breeders are distinguished into a separate subspecies of irises: limniris. Have

Plants of this subgroup have no “beard” on the limb of the petals.

Iris marsh

Iris yellow, grows in nature along the shores of lakes, rivers, on the slopes of humid ravines.

It can thrive and bloom well on saline soils, at high outside temperatures.

These varieties of iris are successfully used in landscape design for the design of artificial reservoirs: outdoor pools, ponds, waterfalls, iris tolerates excessive watering, looks great with decorative planting.

Iris smooth

Iris grows smooth on the banks of ponds and streams.

Deep blue flowers with a narrow yellowish-white arrow on each petal, arranged in 2-4 on erect arrows, dark blue or purple, 9-10 cm in diameter.

It goes well with all moisture-loving plants. In addition, it does not lose its decorative effect all season. The height of the perennial is variable and reaches a maximum of 1 m.

It has wide, grayish-green, smooth xiphoid leaves and various widths (from 1 to 3 s) m. Iris blooms in May - June.

Iris german

This variety is extremely rare in natural conditions. Iris Germanic purple has broadly xiphoid glaucous leaves.

Their length reaches 50 centimeters, width - 30 mm. The peduncle of the culture is branched. Can be as long as leaves or longer. The flowers are large, painted in bluish-lilac or purple.

They have a pleasant strong aroma, light blue or yellowish beard. The capsule is slightly elongated, oval in shape.

Dwarf iris

Dwarf irises are classified as low-growing crops, the height of the stems of which does not exceed 40 cm, although most of the specimens grow only up to 20 cm.

Regardless of such a small growth, the buds of irises of this type practically do not differ in size and shape from the flowers of their tall counterparts.

The color range of the petals of this culture is also very diverse and is represented by lilac, purple, yellow and other shades.

Each peduncle is capable of producing 2-3 flowers, and a lot of shoots themselves grow on one bush, and therefore the flowering turns out to be quite abundant and variegated. Unlike medium and tall irises, their dwarf irises are distinguished by their unpretentiousness and ease of care.

Iris Kempfer

Kempfer's iris (or xiphoid) has a short, thickened rhizome. It is located vertically or horizontally. The basal leaves of the plant are not more than 50 cm tall, light green, with a prominent shiny midrib.

A straight peduncle rises 10-15 cm above the leaves. The flowers are odorless, can reach 15 cm in diameter. A ten-year-old bush forms 10-15 peduncles, each of which can have up to 4 buds).

Flowers on the bush do not bloom at the same time. The xiphoid iris grows on any soils, best of all on slightly acidic ones, both in the light and in the shade, in rockeries and on the banks of reservoirs.

Does not require fertilizers, shelters and all sorts of special agricultural techniques. It blooms in the first half of July, and each flower remains on the plant for three days.

Japanese iris

It is an extensive species of irises that is divided into subgroups according to the size of the flower.

The cultivation of these varieties is most preferable due to the high decorativeness of flowers. Japanese irises often form double flowers at different times (early, middle, late, very late).

Japanese iris flowers are colored in all shades of rich purple. Flowers of this subgroup do not tolerate wintering well.

How to plant irises

Planting irises

Choosing a place for planting irises

For planting any irises, the place is taken away from the wind and open to the sun, especially in the morning. It should

be well-drained soil.

Irises are very fond of when the "back", rhizomes are illuminated by the sun. But they grow well in partial shade, especially Siberian irises, whose delicate blue flowers quickly fade in the bright sun.

For most irises, light loam is preferred. But even on sandy soil, these flowers will feel good too. Heavy, damp, clayey soils are diluted with sand and peat. In low-lying, humid areas, only marsh irises grow.

Transplanting irises in spring

The most convenient time to transplant is 2 weeks after the end of flowering. Irises planted in spring take root well.

Flowers with a clod of earth can be transferred to another place during the entire warm period. Spring transplanting of irises begins when young leaves appear.

In this case, the planting bed is prepared in the fall. Humus, compost, bone meal and a little lime are added to the soil.

In the spring, when the soil dries out, they dig a hole 0.4 m in size and 15 centimeters deep. 5 mounds are formed at the bottom. Dried cuttings are placed horizontally on them, with the leaves pointing outward.

The roots are straightened. Fall asleep with the remaining earth. Watering. As a result, the rhizomes of the planted plants should be covered with soil by 1 cm.

Planting irises in autumn

Autumn planting of irises begins in August, when the heat subsides and until a cold snap, until October. They dig up the soil. If it is heavy, thin it with sand.

Dig a hole 15 cm deep. A prepared cut rhizome is placed on a poured mound. Sprinkle the roots with sand. Cover with earth so that the "back" remains on the surface. Water well.

Plants are best placed in a circle. Rhizomes do not mulch; this prevents their growth. In early spring, the soil is fertilized with complex mineral fertilizers.

Planting bulbous irises

Iris bulbs are planted in the soil from September to October. The soil is dug up, filled with sand and complete mineral fertilizer.

A hole is prepared with a depth of about 15 cm, the bulbs are planted to a depth of 7-8 cm from the surface, with the sharp end up. An adjacent bulb is planted at least 15 cm.

The planted bulbs are covered with leaves or brushwood.Do not remove the mulch until the danger of frost has passed in the spring.

With the advent of stable warming, all excess is raked up, freeing the seedlings access to light.

Reproduction of irises

You can propagate, rejuvenate and transplant moisture-loving irises in early spring or late summer. The bush prepared for transplantation is cleared of soil, broken, diseased or dead parts are removed. The roots are cut, leaving a third part.

The leaves are trimmed two thirds. The rhizome, cut into several parts, is "disassembled" into planting divisions. The remaining roots are trying to carefully untangle.

Each resulting cut should have 3-5 bunches of leaves. The soil is prepared by adding peat and complex mineral fertilizer to the removed soil.

The planting hole is dug taking into account that the roots, placed on the mound of the rhizome, hang freely, and after the soil is compacted, the rhizome is at a depth of 5-7 cm. The planted plant is watered and mulched with peat. The seedlings are placed 20-30 cm apart.

Iris care

Planting care is reduced to weeding, carefully loosening the soil, watering, feeding, treating pests and diseases, pruning after flowering and before wintering.

Top dressing of irises... With the advent of warming, last year's leaves are removed from the irises, and the soil around the plantings is carefully loosened. When seedlings appear, the plants are fed with nitrogen and phosphorus, and after 15 days with nitrogen and potassium. The most important fertilization for next year's flowering is three weeks after flowering ends. At this time, nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium are added. It is dangerous to introduce nitrogen-containing fertilizing later, since irises “overfed” with nitrogen do not tolerate wintering well.

Watering... Watering irises is necessary only during drought. The precipitation is enough for them. Be sure to watered only when planting, during the budding period and when applying dressings. In order to increase the winter hardiness of plants and help them to go to a state of dormancy, since August, watering is reduced, they stop loosening the soil, but the weeds still continue to be removed.

Pruning... Withering flowers, and after flowering and peduncles are removed. In the second half of autumn, iris leaves are cut cone-shaped, leaving no more than 15 cm. The cut leaves are burned, as the larvae of pests and pathogens remain on them. Before the onset of frost, the rhizomes are covered with earth by 5-7 cm. It is good to put dry leaves, tops, spruce paws on top. In winter, snow is thrown over the plantings.

Irises - diseases and pests

Prevention is central to pest and disease control. If you keep the site clean, remove weeds in a timely manner, apply mineral fertilizers in moderation, then the plants will be less affected by diseases, and the number of pests will decrease.

Most often, irises are affected by soft rot of the rhizome and bacteriosis.

The main reason for rhizome rot is a deep planting. When properly planted, the back of the rhizome always "tans" in the sun. The first signs of bacteriosis appear when the leaves dry out. They turn brown, bend over and are easily pulled out.

At the next stage, the disease passes to the growing part of the rhizome, which rots. The affected bush is dug out of the ground, the decayed part is cut out to healthy tissue and etched with any fungicide, in extreme cases with potassium permanganate or iodine. Then they are kept in the sun for at least 8 hours.

During this time, the rhizome is turned over several times. Occurs on iris bushes and spotting.

For the prevention of these diseases, it is necessary, with the onset of stable heat, to treat the emerging seedlings with copper sulfate, copper oxychloride, or any copper-containing preparation at least 3 times in 5-7 days.

Pests also do not bypass irises. On them can appear: wireworm, gladiolus thrips, winter and iris moths.

Having found uninvited guests on the flowers, the plantings are treated with karbofos several times with an interval of 5-7 days. Naked slugs harm plantings. You can fight them if you sprinkle the soil around the flowers with: wholemeal ash, lime, mustard powder, granular superphosphate, finely crumbled eggshells.

The last few years, the flowers of iris and not only iris have been almost completely eaten by bronzes - rather large beetles with a bronze or greenish tint on folded wings. These pests spend the night here on the buds that have appeared and in half-opened flowers. If you shake the flowers early in the morning, then you can collect bronzes numb from the cold in a substituted container.

During the day, this can be done by sprinkling beetles eating flowers with cold water. Beetles numb from water can easily be shaken off into a bucket of water or kerosene. The appeared buds of not only irises, but also roses, peonies, lilies must be processed with confidor, mosilan or aktara. This will also reduce the number of pests.

Where to buy iris seeds and bulbs

The Scientific and Production Association "Sady Rossii" has been introducing the latest achievements in the selection of vegetable, fruit, berry and ornamental crops into the wide practice of amateur gardening for 30 years. In the work of the association, the most modern technologies are used, a unique laboratory for microclonal reproduction of plants has been created.

The main task of NPO Sady Rossii is to provide gardeners with high-quality planting material for popular varieties of various garden plants and novelties of world selection. Delivery of planting material (seeds, bulbs, seedlings) is carried out by Russian post.

We are waiting for you for shopping at the NPO Sady Rossii.

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Date of publication:Landing in open ground

Bearded iris planting in the spring and care in the open field