Technology of laying parquet boards on plywood

Base requirements

Laying a solid board on a screed without plywood, a plank floor or chipboard in a floating way is suitable for small rooms, the main thing is that the base is even, strong and dry. It should also be borne in mind that heavy furniture can deform the floor.

The advantages of this styling:

• high speed of installation;
• the cost of laying a solid board (no need to buy glue and other components);
• ease of installation - installation can be carried out by one person;
• lack of rigid attachment to the base, which allows the floor to move freely during thermal compression or expansion of wood.

For self-installation, the following tools are required:

• electric jigsaw or hacksaw;
• hammer (weighing 1 kg);
• limiters;
• staples;
• block for padding.

Before laying a solid board, it is necessary to assess the condition of the screed.

IMPORTANT: natural flooring requires an absolutely flat, clean surface. All internal work should be completed before installing the board .. Be sure to check the base for moisture

For this, there is a device that measures its performance in percent. To ignore the measurement at the first stage means to get soon:

The base must be checked for moisture. For this, there is a device that measures its performance in percent. To ignore the measurement at the first stage means to get soon:

- fungus (it can easily start in a humid environment);

- warpage (under the influence of moisture, the floor can swell and deform).

The best solution is to invite a specialist. The moisture meter should show - no more than 2%. There was an opinion that it is possible to do without the device. It is necessary to leave a piece of polyethylene pressed against the screed overnight. In the morning, inspect the place under it and if perspiration appears, then the humidity is increased. German scientists, after conducting such a study, found out: in the place where perspiration did not come out - the moisture meter showed 6%.

The durability test will guarantee the long-term use of the coating. You can conduct the research yourself:

• Walk around it. It crumbles underfoot, sand is felt - the worst option. Such a screed should be redone.
• Inspect carefully. Visible chips and depressions must be putty.
• With visual perfection, it is worth walking on the screed with a sharp object. There will be no damage on a perfect surface.

For laying a wooden floor, the following base indicators will be excellent: for compression - 25 MPa, for shear - 7 MPa. The exact indicators will be recorded by a device - Schmidt's hammer, which calculates a shock impulse under an applied load (another name is a sclerometer).

Additionally, a two-component epoxy primer will help to strengthen the base.

In addition to strength and moisture, it is worth paying attention to how smooth the base is. The permissible rate of difference in height is 2 mm per 2 running meters

An upward deviation from the norm will change the geometry of the floor. A two-meter rail or a building rule (which will be at hand) will help to check the evenness of the base. They need to be carried along the base and check the tightness of the strip to the floor. Revealed grooves should be putty, and protrusions should be sanded.

ATTENTION. After completing the preparatory work, debris, sand, dust should be removed

Thoroughly vacuum and prime the surface. At the exit, the screed must be level and clean before laying.

Layout options

There are several options for arranging the array:

1. Traditional loosening. In this case, the displacement of the seam in each subsequent row is at least 25 cm.This method allows you to emphasize the natural beauty and naturalness of the coating.
2. Laying option - brickwork. The end joint of the elements in each subsequent row falls in the middle of the element in the previous row.
3. Diagonal styling allows you to emphasize the geometry of the room, hide its flaws and visually expand the boundaries of the space. The displacement of the seam can be chaotic (staggering) or according to the principle of brickwork.
4. Triple brickwork. With this variant of the layout, the end seams of the elements in three adjacent rows coincide, and in the next three they are shifted by half of the element.
5. Herringbone styling is made from small pieces. In this case, the solid wood floor is very similar to parquet or parquet board.
6. Since you can find decorative elements for solid wood products on sale, let us assume the option of laying with a herringbone with inserts. Usually, contrasting inserts of a square configuration are used.
7. The braided version with inserts also resembles a parquet floor. Usually, they adhere to a diagonal layout, making a square-shaped element from several parallel-laid floorboards. The same elements are placed around it from the floorboards laid in the opposite direction. Small discrepancy in size is compensated by inserts.
8. Brickwork with inserts looks more impressive than traditional brickwork. The contrasting color elements create an interesting pattern on the floor. Option with diagonal laying is possible.
9. Laying in squares implies the formation of elements of a square configuration from several parallel-laid dies. In the next square, the direction of the dice is changed. The pattern resembles a braid without inserts.
10. Deck stowage is suitable for small spaces. In this case, one long and one short board is laid in one row. In the next row, they change places.
11. Cross-stacking involves laying the dies parallel to each other in one row. The next row is several boards, laid in the traditional way in one row in the opposite direction to the previous one.

The floor, laid with squares with inserts, also looks beautiful. This option is suitable for small spaces. Unlike braids with inserts, boards form a kind of pattern with a square-shaped element in the center and inserts in the corners. The rest of the boards are laid in a wicker pattern around it.

Do-it-yourself technology for installing parquet boards on plywood

Laying parquet on a sub-floor made of plywood sheets

Installation of a parquet board on a plywood substrate begins from the left far corner of the room. The lamellas are pre-flattened on the floor, a drawing is selected, and markings are applied. One of the important conditions is the preparation of the parquet. To avoid the formation of cracks, the floor material must be in the room where it will be laid for at least a day. The lamellas are easy to fit along the markings. Everyone can cope with such work: instructions are attached, the type of connecting locks and dimensions are indicated on the packaging.

Mounting options

Depending on the type of locking joints, the technology of laying parquet boards on plywood is determined:

• With the dry method (floating), the adhesive is not used, the lamellas are held together by tight locking joints. The best options for Lock or 5G locks. With floating technology, a polyethylene or cork backing must be used.
• The glue method is used for almost any type of connection. Here you should be careful about the choice of glue and it is advisable to use the brands recommended by the manufacturer of the parquet board.

Floating way

Glue method

Knowing all the features of laying parquet flooring, everyone can cope with the work on their own. With a little effort and perseverance, you can enjoy the result.

What is the difference between an engineering board and a parquet board?

We must say right away that it will not be possible to distinguish one material from another based on a photo. But in terms of its technical characteristics, an engineering floorboard differs significantly from parquet strips. Due to its many advantages, the engineering product is more popular and has won many positive reviews.

The similarities between engineering and parquet flooring are as follows:

• both varieties are multi-layer structures;
• in both versions, the top layer is valuable wood, which is subjected to protective treatment in the factory;
• there is a lock at the ends of both products to speed up and facilitate installation.

The differences between the two materials are as follows:

• engineering floors are more durable;
• the top layer of valuable wood in an engineering product reaches a thickness of 8 mm, while for parquet it reaches only 4 mm (as a result, an engineering board will withstand a greater number of polishes in order to renew the surface);
• engineering dies are not afraid of changes in humidity and temperature in an apartment, which cannot be said about parquet flooring;
• parquet boards are one-, two- and three-lane, and engineering - only single-lane;
• engineering products, unlike parquet, are allowed to be used when installing heated floors.

Nuances in preparing the foundation

Concrete slabs

First of all, it is necessary to form a barrier that can act as a buffer between wood and concrete. This role can be assumed by a polyethylene substrate (3 mm) or a layer of ground mastic. This barrier will ensure the stability of the coating and protect it from deformation.

Then you should equip the base for the solid board flooring. The scenario of the development of events provides for two ways to implement this point:

Method # 1 - lags on the screed

The role of the base in this case is taken by logs - wooden bars of rectangular cross-section. They are attached to the screed with dowels / screws. If there is a danger of harming the communications under the screed layer, a more reasonable solution would be to stick the log onto the mastic (glue or containing bitumen).

The maximum distance between the attachment points is 50 cm. Alignment of the blocks is carried out according to the level by removing excess wood with a plane / placing chips. The space between the lags, if desired, is filled with heat-insulating material. If you live on the first floor in a building that does not have a basement, it is still better to "wish" it. On the logs, a moisture-proof film should be placed, fixed with staples. And already on top of the latter, lay a massive board.

Method # 2 - screed plywood

Laying solid boards on plywood is a more popular way to form a quality floor. A moisture-resistant plywood with a thickness of about 15 mm is used as a base. According to the technology, plywood sheets are cut into strips (width 40-60 cm). It is necessary to spread the "tiles" with a shift in order to minimize the possibility of coincidence of angles.

Plywood base for solid board

Plywood is attached to concrete with dowels and screws (all heads must be sunk inside the material). Each of the base elements must have at least nine attachment points. An alternative option is to glue the plywood.

A massive board can, of course, be laid on a cement screed and "directly" - without resorting to the use of plywood and installation of logs. But this method can be recommended only for rooms with an almost ideal base, located on the second and higher floors.

Supporting wooden structures

If the laying of solid wood flooring will be carried out in a structure where the supporting structures are made of wood, they can be used to fasten the base.

The base can be plywood, OSB boards (18 mm) or plank flooring (20 mm). The edges of the slabs should be joined on the joists, but not between them.The gap between the sheets should be at least two millimeters, between the sheets and the wall - from ten (but not more than fifteen). Plywood and OSB are fastened with screws.

Does the room have a solid, high-quality wood floor? Fine! Sand it with a belt sander. Clean the surface from fine debris and dust. It is recommended to lay a solid board on top of a wooden floor either in a diagonal or transverse direction.

The technology of laying parquet boards on the screed

It provides for the following procedure for the implementation of work:

• Cleaning the screed from dust. A powerful vacuum cleaner comes in handy for this.
• Laying waterproofing film. The thickness of this material should be 200 microns. It spreads in overlapping stripes, while you should not forget to put the material on the walls by 5-6 cm.
• Installation of a natural substrate.
• Laying parquet boards diagonally or in another way starts from the farthest and longest wall. It is necessary to insert wedges between the first row of the board and the wall to create a technological gap. In the next row, the remaining trimmed part of the parquet plank is attached first. This takes into account the drawing. In order for the planks to "sit" well in their place, you can use a mallet and a wooden block. The glue method involves applying a special composition to the back of the element and fixing it on the base.
• Plinth installation. It is screwed around the entire perimeter of the floor.

If during installation it will be necessary to cut off a part of the board or cut a hole in it, then it is better to use a jigsaw for this purpose. A visual video on installation to help you:

Caring for such a floor covering involves the use of a well-wrung out damp cloth and a vacuum cleaner. If there are stubborn stains on the surface of the floor, then you can use special detergents designed specifically for this type of flooring. If the technology of installing the parquet board on a screed or wooden base is observed, as well as proper care, the floor will serve for a very long time. Add comments to the article, and finally, a useful video:

Manufacturers overview

The price of glue for solid boards depends on its composition and manufacturer. The following adhesive mixtures are especially popular:

1. Tarbicol KP 5 is used for laying solid wood flooring on a plywood base. It is also used to glue chipboard and plywood. Advantages of the material: quick setting, convenience and ease of use, no stains, frost resistance. The price per pack is $ 78.5.
2. Ansercoll is a one-component compound based on modernized rubber. It is completely safe because it uses environmentally friendly, harmless solvents. Ansercoll does not affect the shade and structure of the material and is suitable for laying on plywood or concrete substrates. Its cost is $ 88.5.
3. UZIN-MK number 73 is a one-component polyurethane-based compound. The glue is used for laying the array on chipboard, plywood, screed, as well as in the underfloor heating system. UZIN-MK number 73 is distinguished by good shear strength, it evens out substrate defects and fills all voids well, is easy to use and easy to apply.
4. Alcohol-based Tarbicol KPA is suitable for gluing solid wood flooring, piece lacquered parquet and cork backing. It is a versatile formulation suitable for use on a variety of substrates. It is allowed to be used in the underfloor heating system. Price - $ 108.
5. Wakol PU number 210. This universal compound is suitable for all types of wood and boards of all sizes. This is an adhesive for laying solid boards on plywood and screed. It hardens within two days. Cost - $ 31.7.
6. Tabicol PU 2K. This paste adhesive is suitable for installation on any substrate inside and outside the home.The tool is used for the installation of massive and parquet boards, mosaic parquet elements. In this case, the thickness and dimensions of the product do not matter. Price - $ 56.7.
7. Lechner Sipol is suitable for laying narrow elements on plywood or concrete. This versatile compound is easy to apply and has high peel strength. The composition hardens within two hours. The finished floor can be sanded in 24 hours.

Among the polymer-based adhesives, it is worth highlighting the Lechner SMP mixture. This non-toxic compound allows for an elastic glue line, which provides additional soundproofing of the room. It is suitable for medium-width boards. Price - $ 125. Stauf SPU is a hybrid one-component solid board adhesive that combines the best qualities of polymeric and polyurethane compounds. The result is an elastic, durable seam with soundproofing characteristics. Hybrid formulations are also suitable for laying boards with medium widths. Their price starts at $ 158.

Basic ways

Glue

For laying the engineered board, one-component or two-component adhesives can be used. The vast majority of manufacturers create formulations based on polyurethane compounds. The reason is simple - these substances form the compounds most resistant to water ingress. Modern compositions can be used for the installation of an engineering board on:

• screed;
• wood sole;
• chipboard;
• oriented slabs;
• plywood;
• multimol with a strengthening effect (analogue of reinforcing glass fiber wall).

But it is worth noting that the manufacturers of the engineering board do not recommend mounting it on top:

• plaster-based self-leveling floor;
• cork backing;
• cable heating floor.

Combined

This option involves the use of not only glue, but also specially selected self-tapping screws. They sometimes use hairpins instead. Fasteners are driven into the grooves of the lamellas at an angle of 30 to 45 degrees. This technique is considered better than other types because it is very reliable and ensures the durability of the assembly. However, the cost of consumables is quite high, and you will have to spend a lot of time for installation.

Floating

This name was given to the installation of an engineering board with standard Click system locks. The material to be laid will not be mechanically bound to the substrate in any way. The construction will be made quite tightly and reliably. No additional processing is required. However, this solution is of little use for tongue-and-groove and keyway options, for work it is necessary to involve trained specialists, and the base must be prepared as carefully as possible.

Into key

This method is widely used for joining boards made using the “thorn-groove” technology. The technology has been developed for the arrangement of houses made of poorly dried timber. The insertion elements will not be particularly affected by shrinkage. The geometric design is kept within the normal range. The installation of an engineered board in a dowel, experts also advise for the most damp regions and areas, such as the Primorsky Territory or the Black Sea coast.

Long fragments are best placed, shifting them by about a third. Then tying the products in a circle at the ends will not be difficult. Visual correspondences and discrepancies between the individual planks must also be taken into account in order to create a clear and consistent pattern. Therefore, it is obvious that before laying out in any way, the lamellas should be carefully laid out and distributed in a certain way.

The laying on a concrete screed deserves special attention. This option is most often practiced. But a prerequisite is sufficient evenness of the base itself. If its geometry is violated, you will have to level the substrate with plywood. It is best if the moisture content of the screed on the surface does not exceed 6%.In this case, you can refuse to use waterproofing materials.

Tools and materials

The engineered plank can be laid on top of the wood flooring with one-component silane adhesive. Its principle of operation is not the same as that of polyurethane glue. When such a substance is used, an elastic joint is formed. As a result, a change in the moisture content of the wood will not particularly affect the mechanical properties of the joint and its reliability. Silane formulations harden quickly and finishing can be started in a short time.

Also, in favor of silane adhesives, they speak of safety for humans, the ability to do without complicated grinding work. If such a substance gets on your hands, it will be quite simple to remove it. The same, note, applies to glue spots on the floor or other surface. With skillful use, such an objection as the rather high price of silane compounds disappears.

Also useful for work:

• screwdriver;
• special tool for fastening staples;
• self-tapping screws and dowels of a suitable size (it is not recommended to replace them with nails);
• plywood or final screed (providing final alignment);
• mallet;
• surface leveling compound;
• deep penetration soil;
• saw, hacksaw or parquet floor;
• sandpaper;
• Angle grinder (for larger-scale grinding);
• a nozzle in the form of a whisk for mixing the solution;
• tightening belts (needed when you have to work with grooved parts or curved products);
• wooden wedges for spacer;
• construction tape;
• a good pencil (or better a marker);
• square.

How to lay parquet without plywood

The subfloor requires careful preparation, especially if no additional use of plywood is planned. The screed must meet important requirements:

1. Allowable front heights vary in the range of 1-3 mm per linear meter. Use a special level to define this parameter;
2. Humidity should not exceed 3%.

Any irregularities and cracks should be removed. If the humidity is high, it is recommended to place a vapor barrier on the floor. The concrete base needs sanding and priming. This will add reliability to the foundation. Using a concrete screed is the most demanded base.

1. The surface is treated with a primer;
2. Take the boards for the first two rows and place them as they are supposed to lie. Glue is applied to the product and base;
3. The first board is laid on the base, stepping back from the wall by 10-12 mm;
4. Using a special block, you should knock the second board to the previous one. It is necessary to glue each product for a maximum of 10 minutes, otherwise the glue will have time to dry;
5. If necessary, the last board is trimmed and the next row begins with this remainder;
6. For convenience, it is recommended to insert small wedges into the space between the floor and the wall;
7. The described algorithm should be performed several times next to each other. Then it is recommended to check their quality. There should be no cracks, the surface is flat.

When the floor is completely covered, the resulting joints are treated with an acrylic-based sealant.

The floating method is characterized by the absence of seams. This effect is achieved by compressing the parquet board. To do this, use the lock method or glue. Unlike the previous method, the product is glued not to the base, but to each other. The installation looks like this:

• Laying starts from the left corner. The board should be locked against the wall. The side adjacent to the wall must be free of grooves. It is recommended to cut them off;
• The second product is placed at an angle on the edge of the previous board;
• As in the previous case, the next row begins with the remains of the product from the past. If the board is less than 30 cm in length, then it is better to take a new one and cut off half of it;
• It is necessary to continue in the same order until the end of the work.

It is recommended to use a rubber or wood mallet to keep the product stronger.The floating technique is more suitable for small rooms. If the room is large, the floor will start to creak, a high probability of curvature.

Finally, the surface should be sanded. If there are gaps, they must be putty. When everything is dry, re-sand the floor. The final stage is priming and varnishing the surface. This will protect the floor from damage and cracks and make it look more beautiful.

What the lack of plywood is fraught with

• Curvature of the floor. If the base is not even enough, then over time the board will simply bend and the aesthetic appearance of the room will be immediately disrupted;
• Lack of additional thermal insulation. Plywood can be an additional source of heat preservation. Otherwise, the floor will be quite cold.

Plywood is also an excellent base for bonding boards securely. Therefore, it allows you to create a strong connection that will last a long time. If you do not plan to use it, you should definitely take into account many factors, including the evenness of the base and the level of humidity, in order to lay the parquet correctly and efficiently.