Heating and cooking ovens made of bricks projects

Problems when building a mini-oven with your own hands

Amateur stoves inexperienced make mistakes, which then lead to problems. Let's consider the most common cases:

• Furnace masonry deviated from the project. As a result, there is no normal draft in the smoke ducts, the walls heat up unevenly. The solution to the problem will be to disassemble the stove and masonry according to proven schemes.
• Laying stoves "by eye", without using a level, frame, plumb lines, rules. The device tilts, the center of gravity shifts, and the device collapses faster during operation.
• Incorrect preparation of the solution. The masonry cracks and crumbles. A temporary solution to the problem is the purchase of a factory mix and filling the cracks with a new solution. If the masonry cracks constantly and deeply, the stove will have to be shifted.
• The firebox is freshly folded and wet. This will lead to cracking of the masonry, which will need to be covered with mortar.

Furnace types

According to the principle of operation, there are several types of brick ovens:

Russian - Dimensional and multifunctional. She has an open firebox, which is closed with a damper, the chimney runs along all the walls of the stove. In addition to heating in a Russian stove, you can cook any food.

The disadvantage of the Russian stove is that it must be constantly heated, since when cooled, condensation forms in the stove, which remains on the bricks and the next time the bricks are used, they crack.

Also, the Russian stove requires constant cleaning of the chimney.

Dutch - a stove with a vertical chimney. It has a small size and a fairly low price.

Bell-type - have wide straight channels. The smoke rises and lingers until it cools completely. Then it goes down, heating the walls of the furnace. The advantage of such furnaces is low cost and simple design, fast heating.

Possible difficulties and problems

Inexperienced craftsmen, when erecting furnace walls, do not use a frame made of wooden beams and a plumb line, which leads to a deviation of the walls from the vertical.

If during the construction process a distortion of the walls is found, the masonry should be disassembled and shifted.

After the end of the work and natural drying, the mini-oven is started to be heated with small portions of firewood.

In this case, the furnace walls are covered with cracks due to the fact that shrinkage processes are taking place in the heating structure. To eliminate cracks, dilute the solution and cover the seams.

Incorrectly seated door fasteners can lead to door displacement. To avoid skewing the door, do not leave it open until the fasteners are completely sealed in the seams. If misalignment is detected during construction, the rows are dismantled and the fasteners are repaired.

Preparation of the solution

To prepare the solution, you need to stock up on a suitable container, as well as a sieve with 3x3 mm cells. To work with the mixture, you will need a shovel, a drill mixer and a small plank. The solution will include water, sand and clay. The harvested water should be clean, without a moldy smell and with a minimum amount of mineral additives.

If the tap water in your area is contaminated, try to bring the right amount in advance. Its volume depends on the number of bricks that the masonry will contain: for example, for every hundred there are 15 to 20 liters of liquid. Fine sand is required for the solution. It is sieved through a sieve to remove pieces of rubble and gravel. In addition, it is required to purchase high quality clay: the strength of the solution depends on it.

The preparation of the mixture begins with the fact that water and clay are mixed in such proportions that the mass is not too liquid, but not too thick, homogeneous mass.

After it acquires plasticity, the sifted sand is added in a ratio of 1 liter per bucket of water. You can check the readiness of the solution by lowering a plate into it: the thickness of the mixture adhered to it should be at least 2 cm.When the desired result is achieved, the sand is stopped adding.

"Buslaevskaya" furnace: projects

projects of houses with a stoveFor styling, you will need the following materials:

• doors - furnaces (0.2x0.25 meters), VK (0.39x0.5 meters), blower (0.14x0.14 meters);
• refractory - 43 pieces;
• solid brick - 382 pieces;
• oven cabinet 28x33x50 centimeters;
• cast iron plate 0.7x0.4 meters with burners (removable rings of different diameters);
• valves - steam exhaust (12x13 centimeters) and smoke (12x25 centimeters);
• grate - grate 30x20 centimeters;
• corner - three blanks of equal-flange rolled stock 1 meter long and 45x45 mm in size;
• steel - a piece of 0.3x0.28 meters;
• strip - 4 pieces of meter (4-millimeter paper), 0.25 meters (2-millimeter paper), 0.35 meters (3-millimeter paper);
• cast iron plate - 0.4 x 0.25 meters; 40x15 centimeters.

Projects of brick ovens of this type are as follows:

1. Complete row.
2. The blower door.
3. Window opening for cleaning.
4. The bottom of the oven is laid out of refractory, three sides are covered with iron.
5. Installation of a furnace door, grate, under the firebox - refractory, cleaning overlap, blower doors.
6. Installing LH.
7. Laying the refractory on the rib around the DS.
8. Laying according to the scheme.
9. The upper clay coating of the oven (1 centimeter) is performed, the diesel fuel is overlapped, a plate with burners is attached.
10. Installation of smoke circulation with cleaning windows, the stove is not laid. In the future, the brick is placed on the edge.
11. The cleaning is overlapped, channels are created, 25 cm strips are laid.
12. The cleaning is completed, the fixing wire is embedded.
13. The cap is laid.
14. Installation of the VK overlap, while the hoods remain.
15. Stoves are laid out according to the scheme.
16. The small stove ends with sheet metal, the masonry is made in the order of the brick stove.
17. The clean hole of the large stove is laid out, the edges of the side walls of the channels are constrained.
18. Laying of ledges.
19. The protrusions are duplicated and the corner is installed.
20. The BP chimney overlaps in the same way as row 19.
21. A three-row neck is made, the chimney size is reduced to a section of 26x13 centimeters for the upper valve.
22. A chimney with grooves is created on this and subsequent rows.

Where is it more efficient and safer to place a small-sized oven

In order for the heating stove to effectively give off heat, it is placed in the middle of a one-room dwelling or embedded in interior partitions. Small heating and cooking stoves are placed in the center of the kitchen or against the wall.

The heating structure will be safe if the groove is properly arranged in the ceiling. A spark arrester is put on the chimney.

The combustion chamber is a source of increased danger. The stove is placed so that coals and sparks do not fall on walls, doorways, and furniture. If necessary, the walls are protected with non-combustible materials (flat slate, ceramic tiles).

Diagrams of small brick ovens

Compact ovens do not take up much space, which is especially important for small rooms. Heaters have a rectangular section at the base

The height of the ovens depends on the height of the building and the model chosen. A brick chimney is often replaced with a factory-made steel chimney.

Heating and cooking mini-oven

A niche for the stove is built into small ovens designed for heating the house and cooking food.

In another niche, located above the firebox, you can build an oven, a hot water container. Niche space is often used to dry things.

Consider a specific scheme of a compact stove with a base size of 0.64 x 0.51 meters (2 x 3.5 bricks) and a height of 2.15 meters (32 layers of masonry).

This heater model is designed for heating small and medium-sized houses with an area of ​​25 to 40 square meters. Ceramic corpulent (ordinary) brick is suitable for masonry.

The stove is built in the kitchen (in the middle of the room or against the wall). The furnace of this model contains the following structural elements:

• combustion chamber;
• blew;
• smoke channels;
• opening for cleaning smoke channels;
• hole for the construction of a chimney;
• niche with a cooking deck;
• niche for installing an oven or a water tank.

Metal elements for the heater are bought at a hardware store. The list of factory parts includes:

furnace door measuring 20 x 20 cm (solid cast iron or with fireproof glass in a metal frame);

Photo 1. Furnace door, size 30 by 30, made of polished cast iron and fire-resistant glass. There is a possibility of traction regulation.

• blower door (14 x 14 cm);
• 2 doors for cleaning smoke channels (20 x 14 cm);
• grate (45 x 25 cm);
• a cooking deck measuring 20 x 35 cm (with or without a hole);
• 2 latches;
• steel corner profile 50 cm long (fixed between the furnace plate and the furnace wall);
• pre-furnace metal sheet measuring 50 x 60-70 cm.

The oven and hot water tank are welded from sheet steel. Asbestos cardboard of the same size is placed under the pre-furnace sheet. For furnace work you will need:

• 222 units of solid red bricks;
• ready-made masonry mixture for fireplaces and stoves (or a solution of sand and ordinary clay taken on the ground in a quarry).

Small heating device

Consider a specific heater circuit. The base of this model has the shape of a rectangle measuring 0.89 x 0.51 meters (2.5 by 2 bricks). The height of the stove is 2 meters 38 cm.

Compact dimensions allow the heater to be erected in the corner or in the center of the room. If the dacha has a kitchen and a couple of living rooms with a total area of ​​up to 40 square meters, the heater is built into the wall openings (interior partitions).

The main elements of this model:

• firebox;
• blew;
• smoke channels;
• outlet to the chimney.

A door with heat-resistant glass in a metal frame or a solid cast-iron door is built into the portal of the firebox. The furnace is built on a solid foundation buried in the ground. The foundation is made solid or columnar.

Important! The stove is laid out of ceramic and fireclay bricks. A firebox is made of fireclay bricks, the lower and upper parts of the heater are made of ceramic

Masonry is made on sandy-clay and fireclay-clay mortars.

Varieties of ovens

In the past, houses were built "from the stove", that is, it was installed first, and then the walls and ceilings were erected. Nowadays, it is not necessary to do this, but it is desirable, especially when it is planned to arrange the stove in such a way that it heats several rooms at once.

The most common types of ovens are Russian, Swedish and Dutch. At the same time, the Russian must be erected before the construction of the house begins, besides, it requires a separate foundation. In general, any kiln with 500 or more bricks needs a foundation that is separate from the base of the building. Easier with Dutch and Swedish ovens. They are compact, can be installed in an already built building and do not need an additional foundation.

There is another wood-burning stove - bell-type stove. Its advantage is the efficiency reaching 70% compared to 50% for other types of furnaces. The disadvantage of such a furnace is a complex device, which makes it almost impossible to assemble it with your own hands. Also, the stove cannot be equipped with a hob - the design is intended exclusively for heating rooms.

Basic concepts for self-construction of a brick oven

For laying the stove, you can contact the specialists. But to save money, you can make a brick oven with your own hands. It will not be difficult even for a beginner, as it does not require special knowledge.

First you need to choose the type of oven, then find the layout of the masonry. On the Internet, there are many diagrams of a brick oven for do-it-yourself masonry for every taste.

After the circuit is found, it is necessary to make the foundation. It should be slightly larger than the oven itself on each side.

The chimney is also made of brick. After completing the laying of the stove, you can make the cladding with finishing materials to give a beautiful look.

It is also very important to choose the correct installation location. If the stove has a cooking function, then it is better to install it so that the cooking part is in the kitchen, and the heating part is in the living room.

Russian stove: drawings of brick stoves

Russian brick ovensThe following materials are required for laying the stove:

• corpulent red brick - 1610 pieces;
• view for a gate valve measuring 0.3x0.3 meters - 2 pieces;
• dry clay solution in dissolved form;
• samovar 14x14 centimeters - 1 piece;

Heating stoves for a brick house - do it yourselfTo work, you will need the following tools:

• trowel - for laying and leveling the solution;
• pick - a multifunctional hammer with a blade located perpendicular to the axis of the handle. At its other end there is a square forehead;
• bubble level for masonry and hydraulic level for the first row;
• rule - serves to align the bricks of each row;
• plumb lines - one of them must be permanently attached to the axis of the chimney (overlap), and with the help of the second, the verticality of the corners is checked;
• brush - needed for grouting;
• cord - it is pulled over each row of masonry.

Drawings of brick stoves for any type of house are as follows:

1. Cooking chamber. For masonry, 3/4 corner bricks with locks are used.
2. Under. There is a slope from the back, for the purpose of which the space is covered with sand, on which the brick is laid.
3. Overlapping the bottom. The structure is covered with bricks along rods, corners or sheet blanks.
4. Arch with a lock. In some cases, a central locking is used, in others, the last two symmetrical bricks.
5. Rows to the lower arch. The brickwork of the brick oven is performed in the usual way, then a vault template assembled from chipboard or springs cut from wood is installed on top of it.
6. Wells. They are tied rows, in which a hole is left overlooking the baking oven.
7. Podpechie. Bricks are laid on a foundation mortar, hollow stones are not allowed.
8. VK Code. For convenience, the bricks are chipped to a wedge-shaped shape.
9. Overlapping the channel over the samovar. It is solid, only solid stones are used.
10. Holes are reduced above the pole. The brick is cut in accordance with the drawing.
11. Aligning the walls. At the same time, the overtube is reduced, the samovar channel is laid.
12. Installation of a samovar. The structure is closed with a separate lid.
13. Installing the view. For embedding the structure, two rows are laid.
14. Chimney. The height of the pipe from the hearth to the top must be at least 5 meters. The upper rows form a visor that prevents precipitation from entering the chimney.

Furnace laying ordering

During masonry, special attention will have to be paid to the strength and evenness of the surface. So, in the seams there should be no excess solution or voids, and all channels from the inside should be perfectly smooth

In this case, they are bandaged in half a brick.

Swedish stove bench Special attention is paid to the section of the smoke channel when laying the Swedish stove with your own hands. It must remain unchanged throughout the entire brickwork of the oven.

Otherwise, even with a minimal restriction, flue gases may escape into the room.

When the first row is ready, you can put the blower door. Further work will be carried out on the basis of the chosen order. To form the inner space of the main elements of the furnace, including the blower, the bricks used for them are somewhat constrained. Already on the next row, the doors can be closed.

Selection of bricks and heating elements

For the construction of passages and heated elements of the furnace, refractory bricks are used. Ordinary brick is used to equip parts that are not exposed to high temperatures. The dimensions of any type of brick are 250 mm in length, 120 mm in width and 65 mm in height. If necessary, brick blocks are broken.

So, a three-quarter brick is distinguished, the length of which is 3/4 of a whole, and a half brick - with a length cut in half. Very small pieces of brick equal to 1/4 of a whole are called quarter pieces. Cutting of the material is carried out using a sharp steel knife and a stalker - cutting a metal pipe. For the construction of the furnace, you will also need metal elements, including:

• a door for the firebox, a door for a blower and a door for cleaning the passages;
• view gate valve;
• grate.

All listed details must be comparable to the dimensions of brick blocks. The waterproofing of the furnace is carried out using roofing material. The length of the sheets of this material depends on what dimensions the structure will have. This factor also determines the number of bricks. Usually, the amount of required building materials is indicated in the project documentation or calculated on an individual basis. Knowing the number of rows, the size of the brick and the dimensions of the furnace, this is done simply.

Masonry course of rows

The construction of the furnace begins with the installation of guide racks. Formwork is attached to them - a wooden box without a bottom. It is needed so that the masonry is even. The formwork is designed for several rows: when they are completed, it is lifted up. Also with its help are created vaults and arches, however, for this, a semicircular formwork is used, and not in the form of a box. When the clutch is higher than the chest, you will have to work on the platforms.

When everything is ready, it is necessary to choose the ordering method for laying heating stoves and the construction technology. There are two popular options for installing blocks - butt and spoon. They got their name depending on which part of the brick looks out. There is another way - bed, when the bricks are installed on a spoon or poke, but it is unreliable. To avoid problems, it is recommended to monitor the seam thickness: it must be at least 5 mm.

Laying steps

Let us consider in more detail the stages of laying a stove in a house using the example of a Swede. The first layer of brick is the most important, it is laid strictly in compliance with the level. In the place where the ash pan is located, no brick is laid. A blower will be located between the chamber and the front side of the furnace, the blocks behind it are cut at an angle to facilitate raking out the ash. A three-quarter brick is placed in front of the blower.

The second and third rows are laid after the blower is fixed. Otherwise, they are similar to the first

It is important that the height of the third row matches the height of the blower door. In the fourth row, a door is installed for cleaning the moves with your own hands, the moves themselves are laid out directly behind it

A row of bricks covers the top of the blower door.

With each subsequent row, the opening of the ash pan is narrowed. A grate is installed on the fifth row of bricks. On top of the sixth row, above the blower, a combustion chamber door is mounted. It is necessary that its height coincides with the height of the ninth row.

The first ten rows are made of refractory bricks, the next superstructure is made of ordinary building material. A hob is placed on top of the bricks of the tenth row. In the next rows, the passages for the movement of heated air smoothly pass into the smoke outlet. A more detailed ordering diagram of the furnace is determined by the configuration and purpose of the structure.

Furnace structure

Dutch is a classic wood-burning channel stove. Its principle of operation is based on the circulation of hot air along the passages laid in the body of the furnace.

But it will not work to mount a tank for heating water: this will lead to a decrease in efficiency due to the accumulation of soot in the channels. Moreover, even without a tank, the efficiency of the oven is barely 40%.

In turn, the "Swede" has an efficiency of 60%.It is considered the most advanced heating and cooking stove, where the oven acts as an air chamber. In the chamber part, afterburning of flue gases takes place, and they go into the convector heated up to 800 ° С. The convector itself is narrow, but has a great height, due to which the heating of the house occurs evenly.

The Swedish can be equipped with a heat exchanger for the hot water supply system. The storage tank is placed on the ceiling or in the drying niche. As a result, the efficiency does not decrease: there is no energy feedback between the oven and the convector on the one hand and the combustion part on the other.