Lavender: the secrets of growing

All about lavender

Lavender fields

These blooming creatures are able not only to please others with their aroma and unusual inflorescence, but also to bring considerable benefit. They are widely used for pharmaceutical purposes and the production of perfumery, and dried fragrant inflorescences are also used in everyday life to protect clothing from moths.

In their natural environment, flowers feel great on mountain slopes, on which they are able to hold on thanks to their long root system, to which they cling tightly. No wonder there is a famous song performed by the mega popular Sofia Rotaru "Mountain Lavender".

Dwarf lavender

It is a perennial evergreen small shrub. Flowers can be either lilac or white.

The first mentions are found in the historical scrolls of Ancient Egypt, where it was grown and used for medicinal purposes in the sacred city of the Egyptians, Thebes, which was their capital. In ancient Rome, the application was found in a different environment: with its help ablution, washing clothes, and also washing hands and dishes. This is where the current name comes from, because in translation from Latin "lavare" means washing.

In addition to its beneficial properties, there is aesthetic pleasure in growing lavender in the garden. With its help, alpine slides and landscape compositions are made out, planted in the form of a flowering border along the paths and simply planted in flower beds.

Reproduction methods

To plant a plant, you will need:

• fertilizer;
• the soil;
• ripper or cultivator;
• shovel;
• rake;
• containers.

There are 4 main methods of reproduction: cuttings, sowing seeds, layering and dividing. The first 3 are considered the best options for various situations, and division is only a spare. Cuttings are a convenient method of obtaining seedlings for planting bushes in large quantities. The bottom line is to cut 8-10 cm shoots for intermediate rooting in a mixture of sand and peat. Reproduction by layering is natural and artificial. Even with the second option, the likelihood of injuring the bush is minimized. The daughter bush is dug up when the shoots are formed. Growing from seeds is not the easiest way. The seedlings will not bloom soon, and you will need constant control over the temperature regime for the seeds. Reproduction by division is relevant if, for some reason, the other methods did not fit. The bush is prepared in the fall, and the procedure is performed only after a year.

Cuttings

To do this, take young lignified shoots of a healthy annual bush. The inflorescence is cut from the cutting and the lower leaves are removed to a height of 3-4 cm. Ideally, stems that have not yet bloomed are used. Dry sand, soil, clay shards and medium pots are prepared for grafting. The shards are placed on the bottom of the pot, a layer of already moistened sand is organized on top. Then earth is poured onto the drainage layer and everything is rammed. Another layer of wet sand is made on top - 1.5 cm thick. The soil itself is prepared from several components. Sand, leaf and turf are used in equal proportions. The prepared stalk is treated with growth stimulants and buried in the ground with the cleaned side. Rooting is improved by "massage" the lower part of the shoot. Sometimes they organize a mini-greenhouse: lavender is carefully covered with plastic wrap.

Seeds

At the first stage, they are engaged in stratification: the seeds are kept in conditions of low temperatures. In this sense, there are 2 ways. In regions where the end of autumn is not accompanied by frost, the sprouts are simply planted in cold soil. Seeds will not suffer from light frosts. To avoid risk, a method of artificial stratification is chosen. The sprouts are mixed with sand and poured into a glass.Then they hide it in a bag and store it in the refrigerator for about a month and a half, or better - two or two and a half. The speed of emergence depends on this. The rudiments are sown at the end of winter or spring. In the first case, they are planted in boxes, and in the second, in street greenhouses. Flowering will not come earlier than in a year. The first 12 months, the seedlings will only develop, grow the root. Sometimes the appearance of inflorescences has to wait 2 years, in rare cases - 3 or more.

Layers

Propagation by air layers is used in the cold season of spring, that is, at maximum air humidity. To implement this method, you do not need to buy seeds or prepare cuttings. The principle is as follows: on an adult bush, choose the oldest branch (always alive), cut off the bud and lower the end of the branch into a small dug hole. Sprinkle the shoot with soil on top to fix it. The resulting hump is watered every two days. After 5-7 days after planting, it is fertilized. It so happens that the stem is springy. Then it is fixed with a stone or a hairpin, additionally covered with earth. Propagation by air layers can be done naturally. If you look under a bush of an adult plant, then, most likely, several shoots will be found there. It is a kind of self-seeding lavender.

Dividing the bush

Lavender does not tolerate division in the best way, so this method is resorted to last. The bush should be divided in early spring, before the start of the active growth season. Careful selection will be required. The cluster is isolated from one section of the rhizome. Then they dig holes 30 cm deep and 2 earthen coma wide. The bottom of the hole is filled with soil saturated with useful elements. Sometimes they also add eight centimeters of pine bark. Fertilizer is chosen potassium-phosphorus. If the bush is small, and the middle shoot is alive, then in order to find out the condition of all areas, you can dig up the lavender completely for a while. Division is carried out with a shovel, and remote areas are pulled apart with two pitchforks. Plants are sometimes divided into several parts and all are planted in new holes. The same depth as the first donor plant. A few important tips:

• sacrificing a whole plant to create a dozen new ones is possible only if the main plant is at least three, and even better - five years old;
• after dividing, you need to take care of a healthy bush without any changes.

Lavender: planting and care, reproduction

Lavender multiplies in several available ways:

• through sowing seeds;
• dividing the bush;
• cuttings;
• layering.

Sowing seeds for seedlings

Planting lavender seeds for seedlings requires preparing the seeds at least two months before the planned sowing. The fact is that the material must bypass a specific treatment, which is called by flower growers - stratification. What kind of technology is this? Nothing super complicated. The seeds are simply mixed with wet sand and placed in a refrigerator.

Lavender is sown in prepared containers with a base of humus and sand in February - March. Since the seeds are very small, they should not be put deep into the ground, it is enough just to sprinkle them with sand.

The container is covered from above with a film or glass and installed in a warm, well-lit room. During the rise, the seedlings are watered and ventilated from time to time. The time for planting the crop begins at the end of May, when the soil has already warmed up enough under the sun. In areas with a warm climate, it is possible to sow seeds in October directly into the ground, covered with foil to guarantee germination.

Seat selection

Shaded and wetlands, heavy clay soils are not suitable for a fragrant aristocrat. She loves dry drained loams. As a rule, alpine slides or paths are decorated with lavender.

Dividing the bush

To divide the lavender bush for subsequent planting, some other care is needed.The bush is prepared for sectioning in the fall: after flowering is complete, it is cut by ten centimeters and well spud, so that the earth falls between the stems. In the spring, hilling is repeated.

Cuttings

It is possible that you were lucky enough to get somewhere an annual shoot with a stiff stem. This is the best option to propagate lavender by cuttings.,

Cut twigs eight to ten centimeters in size from the shoot, bury them in moist soil two to three centimeters, cover with glass jars and water thoroughly until the cuttings take root.

Layers

Another suitable planting method is to lay the stems outdoors. For spring maintenance of lavender plantings, set a couple of shoots aside, then sprinkle with soil, leaving only the top on top.

Throughout the summer, the cuttings are carefully watered and enriched, and next spring the rooted shoots are ready for independent transplantation.

Lavender tale

Evergreen lavender is a small bush in which small flowers are collected in ears. You can see its beautiful flowering at the end of summer - at this time the garden is painted in purple, white, lilac or blue tones.

Lavender loves sunlight, warmth and moisture. But at the same time it is quite resistant to cold winter tests and indiscriminate in soil types. In nature, it can be found in the mountainous areas of the Caucasus, Crimea or the coastal part of the Alps, as well as in the south of Russia.

Lavender for landscaping is a whole topic of discussion. Due to its stunning flowering, it is used for landscaping large-scale backyards and parks. But it will look just as good in more modest areas like garden beds and alpine slides.

The decorativeness of lavender is one of its strong points.

The main trump card of the heroine of our story is a deep saturated color, which is noticeable from all points of the site. Waiting for the magical moment of flowering is not so difficult - lavender is unpretentious, starting from the moment of planting and further care. Rock gardens, rockeries, various garden compositions - all these are excellent opportunities for using lavender.

If you want lavender to “work” all year round, get its narrow-leaved variety, which, in addition to its beautiful flowering in summer, will delight you with beautiful gray-green foliage colors in winter.

To create a hedge of lavender, use several types of lavender for varied and more attractive results. Lavender is also used as a background plant, and undersized varieties allow you to create a real carpet, where the flower shows all its brilliance.

Nature has invented and created about thirty types of lavender, which differ in shape, size and shades during flowering. Among all this splendor, four types that are often found in landscape design can be distinguished.

English lavender is well known not only in its homeland, but also far beyond its borders. This hardy species has gray-green foliage and small blue or purple flowers. It contains many essential oils. The shrub height reaches 75cm. This type is used not only in landscaping parks and households, but also as a spice or medicine.

Dutch lavender is a real giant, growing up to two meters in height, forming a crown in the shape of a ball. She has narrow leaves of a dark green color, as if silvered, and the flowers are collected in large inflorescences. These inflorescences can be white, blue and purple. Dimensions and decorativeness determine its use in gardens and parks.

French lavender (otherwise called broadleaf) is common in France and Western Europe. It is one of the earliest flowering species (it starts blooming at the end of April), as a result of which its flowering can be enjoyed throughout May and all summer. This is possible due to the exceptional hardiness of French lavender.Most often it can be seen in parks in Europe.

Woolly lavender - native to Spain, has hairy leaves and spike-shaped inflorescences. This species is very fond of the sun and warmth, and with prolonged precipitation begins to wither. Despite this feature, it is loved by many flower growers.

Reproduction of lavender

There are several ways to grow and propagate a plant: using seeds, by cuttings, layering or dividing the bush. Growing lavender using seeds is not so easy, but if there is no way to get cuttings, then you can try, but the process will be long.

Planting lavender seeds

Narrow-leaved lavender is best suited for seed production. Before planting, all seeds must first undergo stratification, such a process is carried out in order to increase the immunity of the plant, which will be further protected from temperature extremes.

There are two types of stratification:

1. Natural.

In order for a full-fledged plant to grow from seeds, you need to use natural stratification. And for this it is necessary to sow in the fall, it is best to sow in September. From seeds that overwinter in the soil, a plant with increased immunity grows. But this method is not suitable for all regions, for example, in central Russia, seeds planted in the fall may die before they reach spring.

2. Artificial.

Artificial stratification can be used to create a strong and resistant lavender from the seeds. With artificial stratification, special conditions are created under which the seed is mixed with wet sand and stored in a refrigerator (preferably in a vegetable box), where the seeds are kept for two months at a temperature of 5 ⁰ C... Artificial stratification is carried out in the fall. And in the middle of winter, germinated seeds are planted in prepared boxes in order to grow seedlings from them in the future.

Further, when 1.5–2 months have passed, the germinated seeds are planted in pots or boxes. Cover for a week or two with foil, glass and put in a dark place, while it is imperative to water it periodically. The box can be moved to a warm, bright place only when the sprouts appear. Seedlings should be planted in open ground when the warm weather in spring has settled and the soil warms up well. The first flowers of lavender planted in this way will appear only from the second year, since in the first year the seedling will give all its strength to build up its root system and foliage.

Planting lavender by cuttings

The simplest and most effective way to grow a bush is considered to be the cuttings method, as it is suitable for propagation of any type of plant. The propagation procedure using cuttings is carried out in the same way as for other crops:

1. One-year woody shoot is cut off.
2. Next, the shoot is cut into cuttings.
3. Cuttings are planted in the prepared soil to a depth of 2-3 centimeters.
4. The planted cuttings are covered with a film and watered regularly.

Then, when the cuttings grow roots, they can be transplanted into the open ground to a permanent place.

Reproduction by layering

This method will not cause difficulty even for the most inexperienced gardeners. To do this, in the summer, preferably in June or July, bend the escape from an adult bush (without cutting it off) and put it in a hole prepared in advance, sprinkling it with earth. In this case, one tip remains on the surface. And in order for the shoot not to rise, it will need to be fixed with something, for example, wire or put a load on top. A sprinkled shoot needs constant watering. And after two months, the layer will have its own root system. After that, it can be carefully separated from the adult bush and planted in a permanent place.

Reproduction of lavender by dividing the bush

If you already have a strong bush, then you can use this method.

1. In summer, it is necessary to cut off the upper shoots from a strong bush.This is done to strengthen the root system of the plant.
2. Further, the bush should be well spud, so that there is earth between all the shoots and leave in this position for the whole summer.
3. In the fall, the plant is completely dug up and carefully divided into two parts, so that the root system is damaged as little as possible.
4. Both parts of the bush are planted in the ground.

Growing and caring for lavender outdoors in the Urals

The climate of the Urals is very diverse, from mild in the South Urals, where it is quite easy and simple to grow lavender, to harsh in the north of the region. It is recommended to use only frost-resistant varieties here.

You can grow both seedlings and seeds. When grown by seeds, they must be stratified before planting.

When growing seedlings in the northern parts of the region, it will need adaptation. Planting in open ground occurs by seeds in May. And seedlings in June.

Of all lavender varieties, the Alba variety is best suited for the Urals. However, other frost-resistant varieties listed in the section of varieties for Siberia are also suitable. In the south of the Urals, as an annual, it is possible to grow more thermophilic varieties.

For landing, choose a sunny and wind-free area. It should also be dry enough.

When the frosts go away and there will be no frosts on the soil, lavender seedlings can be planted in open ground. To do this, a hole is dug up to a depth of 30 cm, the distance between the holes is at least 40 cm. A layer of drainage is poured at the bottom, a layer of peat or humus is poured on top. Then the seedling itself is planted. It is covered with earth, the soil is slightly compacted. After that we water the plant. Further. Lavender care is standard, as in other regions.

When the plant grows, it is fed. In the spring it is done with organic fertilizers, and in the summer with potash. And, finally, by winter, the plant is covered with spruce branches, and the soil around it is also mulched.

Proper cultivation of lavender in the country

Pink lavender

To grow this flower in the open field, you must adhere to some rules, which you will learn about now.

One of the most important conditions for growing lavender at home is choosing the right place. The selected area should be well lit. Of course, you can plant it in partial shade, but in this case, do not expect that the plant will delight you with gorgeous flowering for a long time.

Lavender does not like wetlands or areas with elevated groundwater. In order for the bush to develop and grow well, it must be placed in dry soil. In the event that it was not possible to find a dry area, then build a special drainage before planting in a place with high humidity.

White lavender

Sometimes it happens that the drainage layer is not enough for the damsel to grow, but in this case, you can find a way out. To do this, you will have to build a bulk mound, on which a flower bed with beautiful lavender will flaunt.

Equally important is the acidity of the earth. All lavender varieties prefer to grow on neutral soil or in alkaline soil.

To reduce acidity, it is worth adding a little ash or lime to the soil.

Also, in order to increase the nutritional value of the soil and improve its drainage qualities, it is worthwhile to regularly fertilize it with compost. It is not necessary to use manure and nitrogen before planting, since these components can have a bad effect on the inflorescences and the duration of flowering.

Professional gardeners recommend planting lavender close to vegetable crops, which will protect them from various insects and pests, since the flower releases a pungent and strong odor that is harmful to them.

When planting a plant in the ground, consider the distance between the bushes, which should be no more than the maximum plant height. If you decide to decorate the hedge with lavender, then the distance between the flowers should be halved.

Growing lavender from seeds

Landing in open ground

Lavender seeds can be sown directly in open ground before winter, or rather in October. If you grow it through seedlings, then the seedlings are planted in the garden in the last days of May. If you decide to grow such a shrub from seeds, then they must be purchased in advance, or rather, in the first winter weeks or at the beginning of autumn. The fact is that before you start sowing seeds, you need to prepare them. For this, the seed is stratified for two months at a temperature of about 5 degrees, which significantly increases its germination. To do this, the seeds must be combined with moistened sand and placed on the refrigerator shelf intended for vegetables. Sowing seeds for seedlings is carried out in February – March.

Sowing seedlings

The container intended for sowing lavender must be filled with a pre-prepared substrate, which must include coarse river sand and humus (1: 2). Since the seeds of such a plant are very small, the finished soil mixture should be sieved, which will help remove all lumps from it. Then the substrate is disinfected, for this it is spilled with a saturated pink solution of potassium permanganate or ignited in an oven at a temperature of 110 to 130 degrees. At the bottom of the box, on which there are holes for drainage, a drainage layer is first laid, after which it is filled with a prepared substrate.

The stratified seed material is evenly distributed over the surface of the soil mixture, after which it is sprinkled with a three-millimeter layer of sand. Moisten the crops with warm water from a spray bottle and cover them on top with transparent film or glass. Place the drawer in a warm, well-lit place. Crops need systematic ventilation, for this every day you need to raise the shelter for a short time. In order for seedlings to appear, crops must be at a temperature of 15 to 22 degrees.

Seedling care

Immediately after the seedlings appear, you need to start lighting them regularly, otherwise they will stretch out very quickly. The plant must be taught to new growth conditions gradually. To do this, every day you need to remove the shelter for a while, while the duration of the procedure should be increased gradually. Immediately after the seedlings get used to the new growth conditions, the shelter can be removed altogether. After that, the lavender must be planted in a larger box so that the distance between the bushes is at least 50 mm.

Landing in open ground

Planting seedlings in open soil is carried out in the last days of May. Often this shrub is used to decorate alpine hills, to create curbs, or it is planted on both sides of the paths. The culture grows well in open, sunny areas. Since lavender reacts extremely negatively to excess moisture, it is not recommended to choose an area with a high level of groundwater or wetlands for planting it. Sandy loam dry soil is perfect for growing it, but it also grows quite well on drained loamy soil. The recommended pH of the land on the site is 6.5–7.5. If the soil is acidic, then crushed limestone should be added to it.

Before proceeding with planting, the site should be well prepared. To do this, it is dug to a depth of at least 0.2 m, and then the soil is loosened well, for this, compost or peat is added to it.

When planting seedlings of vigorous varieties, a distance of about 1.2 meters is maintained between the bushes. When planting seedlings of other varieties, the distance between plants should be from 0.8 to 0.9 meters. The planting hole is made so deep that the root system of the bush can fit in it. Before planting a seedling, its roots must be cut a little, after which the bush is placed in a hole and covered with earth. After planting, the root collar should be buried 40–60 mm into the ground. Planted seedlings need abundant watering.

Winter sowing

In regions with a mild climate and warm winters, it is recommended to sow seeds directly in open ground. Sowing is carried out in October in a pre-prepared area. To do this, it is dug up and at the same time peat is introduced into the soil. If the soil is excessively wet, then this can be corrected by adding sand or fine gravel to it, which will increase its drainage properties. The seeds are buried into the soil by 30–40 mm, after which its surface is slightly tamped. If the autumn is dry, the crops are watered moderately. When the first snow falls, they should cover the surface of the site so that a not very large snowdrift is obtained.

Growing lavender outdoors

Lavender, planted according to all the rules, in a prepared soil and in a sunny place, is not demanding to care for

It is important to control soil moisture to prevent waterlogging and ensure good drainage

Watering lavender

Watering should be moderate: lavender tolerates drought well, but does not tolerate waterlogging and waterlogging. Therefore, the flowerbed should be watered only when the soil dries up, but in no case should it be poured. Enough 5 liters of water for an adult bush in 1-2 dry weeks. After flowering, lavender is not watered at all.

Soil mulching

Mulching for lavender is undesirable, since mulch helps to retain moisture in the soil and prevents the respiration of the plant roots. Therefore, when creating decorative dumps or a mulch layer, it is necessary to leave the soil around the bush open and loosen it 1-2 times during the summer, providing oxygen access to the plant roots.

Feeding lavender with fertilizers

Lavender grown outdoors requires two-step feeding. In the spring, the bushes are watered with the following composition: 1 tbsp. a spoonful of urea is dissolved in 10 liters of water, this portion is enough for two adult plants (5-6 liters per bush).

At the beginning of the flowering period, fertilizing is carried out with Agricola or Agricola fertilizer - a fantasy. They are bred in a proportion of 2 tbsp. spoons per 10 liters of water, consumption for each bush 3-4 liters of mixture.

Pest control

Pests almost never damage lavender, as the essential oils contained in lavender repel parasitic insects. The scent of flowers attracts bees, which makes the plant a good honey plant.

Lavender in the garden, planting and care in Russia

Caring for lavender in the conditions of central Russia and colder climatic zones consists in timely pruning and sheltering the plant from freezing. The procedure is necessary to maintain the neat shape of the bush. If you do not prune, the lower part of the stems is exposed, and the plant takes on a knotty, not well-groomed appearance. Bare stems freeze easily at low temperatures or strong winds.

In the south of Russia, the shortening of shoots can be done in the fall by removing the peduncles and the two upper pairs of leaves. In conditions of a harsher winter, it is better to postpone pruning until spring - so the plant will be reliably covered from the cold with a snow cap and the root system will not freeze.

You can additionally insulate the bush for the winter with spruce or pine branches. Shelter in the form of fallen leaves or compost is not recommended, as the plant may rot.

Types and varieties of lavender with photos and names

To date, only broad-leaved and narrow-leaved lavender is cultivated by gardeners. Below, we will also describe those types of lavender that can also be grown in your garden.

French lavender (Lavandula stoechas)

Or lavender broadleaf (Lavandula latifolia). The homeland of this species is the Southwest of Europe. The scent of the spectacular flowers of such lavender is very strong, they can be painted in various shades of pink, green, white, purple, lilac or burgundy. This lavender blooms a little earlier than other species, and this happens in April-May. Flowering ends in July, but sometimes in the last summer weeks the bush blooms again.Compared to narrow-leaved lavender, this species is not so highly resistant to frost, therefore it is cultivated mainly in regions with a warm and mild climate. The most popular variety among gardeners is Lavandula stoechas pedunculata, or "butterfly" (Papillon): the flowers of such a shrub have an unusual spectacular shape. The best varieties of lavender are:

1. Yellow Vale. The foliage of the shrub is greenish-yellow in color, the flowers are dark purple, and the bracts are crimson.
2. Regal Splendur. The flowers are dark purple.
3. Rocky Road. This variety has appeared relatively recently. Its large bluish-lilac flowers open in July.
4. Tiara. Bracts in large blue cream flowers.
5. Helmsdale. The flowers are colored burgundy-lilac.

Hybrid lavender (Dutch)

This group of hybrids, characterized by high decorativeness, was created using English lavender and other species of the genus. Such a large shrub is decorated with narrow leaf plates of a silvery color, as well as large oblong flowers, located on long peduncles that bend under their weight. It blooms in July. The best varieties include:

1. Alba. The flowers are white.
2. Arabian Knight. The color of the flowers is dark purple or dark blue.
3. Sawyers. The color of the flowers is pale lilac.
4. Grosso. Large beautiful flowers are painted in lilac-purple color.
5. Richard Gray. The compact bush is decorated with dark purple flowers.

Toothed lavender (Lavandula dentata)

This species comes from the Mediterranean. It is a compact shrub characterized by thermophilicity. The silvery leaf plates are jagged and soft. In July, bloom is observed, during which large fragrant flowers open. The species is not highly resistant to frost. The most popular among gardeners is the variety - Royal Crown: flowers are painted in lilac color.

Narrow-leaved lavender (Lavandula angustifolia)

Or English lavender (Lavandula spicata), or medicinal lavender (Lavandula officinalis). The homeland of this shrub is Southern Europe. This perennial is decorated with greenish-silver foliage, as well as small lilac-blue flowers. Flowering begins in July – August. This species differs from the others in that it has the highest resistance to frost. The most popular variety of such a shrub is dolphin-like lavender: the height of the bush is no more than 0.3 m, it is decorated with very spectacular silvery leaves. Lavender Headcoat is also widely cultivated, most often it is used to create not very high hedges. The best varieties include:

1. Alba. Half-meter bushes adorn white flowers.
2. Rosea. A short shrub, reaching a height of about 0.4 meters, during flowering forms mauve inflorescences.
3. Manstad. The bright blue flowers bloom on a bush that reaches a height of 0.4 meters.
4. Headcoat Giant. The height of such a compact shrub is about 0.6 m.
5. Headcoat Blue. Violet-blue flowers adorn the compact plant, which reaches a height of about 0.4 m.

Planting lavender outdoors

In open ground lavender can be planted with seeds and seedlings

For lavender to bloom profusely, choose the right planting site in open ground:

• the site must be well lit;
• avoid areas with too wet soil, otherwise, make a drainage layer near the roots of the plant at the bottom of the planting pit;
• If the soil in your area is acidic or slightly acidic, add lime or wood ash to the seed holes.

When to plant lavender outdoors:

• seeds directly into the ground - at the end of autumn;
• seedlings - at the end of May.

Seedling lavender

Before planting lavender seeds for seedlings, prepare a container and potting mix. Mix 2 parts humus and 1 part river sand.Sift the mixture until the lumps disappear completely and place in the oven at 130ºC. Pour the treated soil onto a drainage layer in a container for growing lavender.

In February - March, sprinkle the seeds over the surface of the potting mix, sprinkle with sand with a layer of 3 mm thick, moisten with water and cover with plastic wrap. Place the container with seedlings in a well-lit area with a temperature of 15-22ºC. Raise the cover periodically to ventilate the crops. When the first shoots appear, remove the cover and plant the shoots at a distance of 5 cm.

How to plant lavender in the ground in spring

Prepare the planting site at the end of May. Dig up the soil to a depth of 20 cm and loosen the soil well. Add compost or peat under the digging.

How to plant lavender:

1. Dig holes every 80-90 cm. The depth of each hole should be such that the root system of the bush fits freely into the depression.
2. Trim the roots of the seedlings.
3. Plant each bush in a hole and bury it.
4. Water all seedlings liberally.

Sowing lavender in the winter in the fall

Sowing lavender seeds in open ground is only effective in warm climates. If your area has mild winters, follow these guidelines:

• In October, prepare the soil on the site - add peat for digging and add sand or fine gravel if the soil is too wet.
• Sow seeds 3-4 cm deep.
• Compact the soil after sowing.
• In dry weather, water the seeds, but not too abundantly.
• At the beginning of winter, cover the area with snow.

Lavender pests and diseases

When grown in open soil, lavender is highly resistant to harmful insects and diseases. However, problems can arise with her. In some cases, the shrub is affected by gray rot or rainbow beetles or slobbering pennies (leafhoppers) settle on it.

If pests have settled on the bush, then you can get rid of them by collecting insects by hand. Then be sure to replace the mulching layer under the bush. The development of gray rot is facilitated by the regular stagnation of liquid in the soil, which can be caused by excessively frequent and very abundant watering or prolonged rains.

Such a disease cannot be treated, therefore it is recommended to dig up and destroy the affected bush. If the disease is at the initial stage of development, then you can try to save the lavender, for this, immediately after detection, all affected parts of the bush are cut out. And then the irrigation regime is necessarily adjusted.

Lavender: Combination with other plants

Smells are known to have a big impact on a person's subconscious mind.

Therefore, when growing flowers, it is important that the flowerbed is not only pleasing to the eye, but also enchants with its aroma. When planting plants, it is important to take care not only that the appearance of the flowers complements each other, but also that the floral aromas do not mix.

This means that you will have to carefully consider the selection of flowers that you want to plant, otherwise you will hardly be able to rest or recharge in your garden.

Lavender looks very good next to plants with contrasting colors.

Lavender goes very well with sage and catnip. She also looks amazing next to yarrow and garden hydrangea, liatrix, or surrounded by grown herbs and perennials.