Description of kobei flower with photo
Kobei are climbing or clinging shrubs or semi-shrubs, the numerous stems of which reach a height of 6 meters or more. The next compound-pinnate leaves consist of three separate parts; branched tendrils are formed at the ends of the shoots, which are modified terminal leaves. With the help of antennae, the plant independently clings to any support, rises to a considerable height, and is able to decorate large areas of vertical surfaces with greenery in a short time.
Kobei flower in the photo
Kobei flowers are large, up to 8 cm in diameter, single or grouped in 2-3 pieces, bloom on long pedicels in the leaf axils, have a bell-shaped shape with long protruding stamens and a pistil. The color of the kobei flower is initially greenish-yellow, then gradually changes to white or purple, depending on the variety. The fruit is a leathery box, opening along the side seams with large, flat-rounded seeds, 1 g of them contains up to 15 pieces. Below is a photo of a kobei with blossoming flowers.
The culture is characterized by intensive growth, and therefore a high intake of nutrients, therefore it has a powerful root system. Its numerous thin fibrous roots are adapted to grow naturally in the litter of a tropical forest rich in nutrients.
How to properly plant a kobei climbing seedlings: stages and schemes
So we come to the question: how to grow kobei seedlings at home? So much so that after disembarkation she lived and grew for many years.
How to prepare seeds
To quickly grow a loach, you need to carry out stratification before that. This is a long-term keeping of seeds at a certain temperature for their accelerated development and growth. The dense rind softens and cracks over time. Water getting inside the seeds “starts up” physiological processes. The preparation of seedlings must be done in this form:
1. Arrange the seeds in a container so that they do not come into contact with each other. 2. Lightly fill the container with water, close the lid. 3. Place the container in a warm place. 4. As soon as the seed coat softens, it must be removed. 5. The peeled seeds are automatically ready to be planted in the ground.
To make the seeds sprout a little faster, you can prepare the seeds by soaking in a growth stimulator, following the rules prescribed in the preparation (Epin or Zircon is suitable for this). But after processing, they will need to be sown immediately.
Which container to choose
Kobei can be planted in small plastic glasses, small pots, food containers or shallow boxes (the depth should not exceed 15 cm). But the loach does not react well to a pick. Therefore, the seeds should be planted in separate glasses with peat, so that in the future it will be easier to transplant young shoots into the ground.
How to prepare potting mix
The soil for germinating kobei seeds should be similar to the composition of the soils of the Amazon and have approximately the same moisture and air permeability characteristics. Peat has the properties of the Amazonian soil. But if you live in Siberia or in the North-West of Russia and you cannot get it anywhere, then the earth for young sprouts can be prepared from equal parts of the following ingredients:
● river sand; ● leafy soil ● humus; ● sod soil.
Kobei seedlings
Kobei landing pattern
Planting kobei seeds is a slow labor, but not painful. The main guarantee of a developing plant, and, therefore, the desired result, is determined by the observance of the sowing rules. So: 1. Pour a 3-cm layer of drainage soil on the bottom of the container. If not, then place a 2 cm layer of broken brick.2. Fill the container with nutritious soil almost to the top. The acidity of the soil should be zero, that is, neutral. 3. In the center of the container, form a hole 1-1.5 cm deep
Place the seed carefully in the hole. It should fit horizontally, with its flat side down.
Then sprinkle with earth. 4. Stick a tooth stick, small twig or peg nearby so that the young seedlings can already start winding. 5. Moisten the soil with enough water from a spray bottle. 6. Cover the container with glass, polyethylene film, put it in a warm place with sufficient lighting.
Growing seedlings
Once the seeds are planted in the ground, note the planting date on your notebook. This will help you keep track of the dynamics. Use the experience gained for the next year, because you will like the kobei so much that you will probably want to leave it in your garden forever.
Regular actions:
- until the seeds have sprouted, check the soil in the box - it should be moderately moist (but in no case swampy-viscous);
- slight drying on the surface is permissible (however, it is impossible for the soil to dry out inside);
- seeds in the ground do not require light - the main thing is heat and moisture.
Cupping
An important stage is cropping of plants. When transplanted into separate containers, further strengthening and development is ensured. It depends on this stage how well the kobea will subsequently endure placement in the open field.
What do we have to do:
with the appearance of the first shoots, track the moment when the first leaf appears, or even better - two;
The first shoots of kobei
- when the first leaves appear, stop plants 1 pc. in separate pots;
- of great importance is such a factor as the size of the containers. Boxes or pots must be voluminous - otherwise the root system will not be able to fully develop;
For growing kobei, the pots must be voluminous.
- focus on a capacity of 3-4 liters;
- for support, put an independent peg in each pot in advance. Already a few days after docking, the kobei will begin to look for something to catch on - such is its curly nature;
For support, put an independent peg in each pot in advance.
from that moment on, it is no longer so critical to observe high temperatures - the plant feels good even at 14-15 degrees of heat. The main thing is to beware of frost so that the kobei does not get a frost on the loggia or glassed-in balcony;
Reproduction
This climbing plant is propagated by seeds and cuttings, which are cut from mother plants. Growing kobei from seeds does not require special knowledge and strength, but you need to know some points of this process. The best time for sowing is late February - early March. Plants sown during this period usually bloom in July. Under the right growing conditions, it takes 20 weeks from sowing to flowering.
Before planting, it is advisable to soak the seeds for a couple of hours in water, and then place them in a solution with a stimulant to increase germination for five or six hours. To do this, you can use "Epin", "Gumat-Baikal" or "Energin".
After such treatment, the seeds are laid out in low containers filled with loose, nutritious, air-permeable, well-moistened soil, and covered with a small layer of soil from 1 to 1.5 cm. percent. The best temperature for germination is 21 degrees Celsius. The minimum germination temperature is 16 degrees.
The first seedlings appear within 2-4 weeks. During this period, containers with seeds are necessarily aired. As soon as most of the seeds germinate, the shelter is removed. To prevent the appearance of rot, mold or fungal diseases, the soil is spilled with phytosporin or a solution of potassium permanganate.
As soon as the first pair of true leaves appear on the seedlings, they are planted in containers with a diameter of about 12 centimeters with supports. This must be done carefully, trying to preserve all the roots of the seedlings. Supports for young plants are needed so that they do not fall and cling to each other.
You can also germinate seeds on wet cloth or paper. They are laid out so that they do not come into contact with each other. In this case, you can immediately see which seeds are alive and which are not. And since the germination rate of seeds is about 30 percent, this allows you to reduce the area for seeds and soil consumption. After the seeds are nailed, they are planted in separate containers with a diameter of about 12 cm and covered with sufficiently moist soil (1-1.5 cm). As the seedlings grow, they are transplanted into larger containers.
Attention! It is worth remembering that the better the seedlings are developed, the more powerful and faster they will bloom. Kobei can be propagated using cuttings
They are harvested at the very beginning of the intensive growth of plants that overwintered in cool rooms, and then were planted in the spring in open ground. Cuttings are cut from shoots 15 to 25 cm long with several pairs of leaves (2 to 4) and rooted in wet sand in a slightly shaded area. Rooted cuttings develop much faster than plants obtained from seeds, but they do not bloom as abundantly and vigorously.
Kobei can be propagated using cuttings. They are harvested at the very beginning of the intensive growth of plants that overwintered in cool rooms, and then were planted in the spring in open ground. Cuttings are cut from shoots 15 to 25 cm long with several pairs of leaves (2 to 4) and rooted in wet sand in a slightly shaded area. Rooted cuttings develop much faster than plants obtained from seeds, but they do not bloom as abundantly and vigorously.
It will be useful to read:
Seed stratification rules
Very often gardeners complain that their crops do not germinate, the problem may be that it was not done ...
Description
Florists in mid-latitudes grow kobei as an annual because of the plant's heat-loving nature.
A distinctive feature of the kobei is rapid growth, which is ensured by a strong, branched root system with a large number of thin roots.
The length of vine stems reaches 6 m and more. Leaves are complex-pinnate, three-lobed are arranged alternately. At the ends of the lashes, branched tendrils grow, helping the plant to cling to the support and climb up.
Large bell flowers with a diameter of up to 8 cm have protruding stamens and pistils, fragrant with a light musky-honey aroma. The flowers have long pedicels that grow back from the leaf sinuses. The arrangement of flowers is single or in bunches of 3-5 pieces.
Blooming buds are colored yellow-green, which changes after full bloom to white, purple or purple.
After successful pollination, the kobei forms fruits similar to a leathery capsule, which opens on the sides and flat-oval seeds become visible.
Unfortunately, in our climate, the seeds do not have time to ripen, and for the next planting they will have to be bought.
You can get kobei seedlings from seeds or by cuttings.
Growing kobei at home
They sit kobei at the end of winter
In the wild, the kobea is a perennial, but in gardens, it is usually used as an annual plant, as it is very thermophilic and does not survive the winter. Most often it is grown from seeds, which is a rather simple and interesting procedure. But at the same time, you need to know some features of the preparation and sowing of seeds. Also, for reproduction, the propagation method is sometimes used by cuttings, using mother plants.
Sowing Kobei seeds
Sowing seeds of curly kobei should be started at the end of winter. The planting material is large enough and has a hard shell, all this complicates and delays its germination.Therefore, before planting, you need to carry out some preparation in order to remove the crusts mechanically. To do this, you need to take a wide bowl and spread the seeds in it at a short distance from each other, fill them with water and cover so that moisture does not quickly evaporate. When the shell begins to soak, it must be removed in parts and the seeds must be put back into the container.
After the planting material is cleaned, you need to take toilet paper, fold it in several layers and moisten it with a weak solution of potassium permanganate
Then the seeds are carefully laid out on it and packed in a plastic bag, which is placed in a warm and well-lit room. Germination lasts about two weeks, during which time they need to be moistened as needed.
If the seeds develop mold, they should be washed carefully and the paper should be changed.
After the seeds have germinated, they are placed in loose soil on the flat side and covered with soil with a layer of no more than one and a half centimeters thick. Since the kobeya can hardly bear the first pick, it is better to use individual small cups, which must be tightened with plastic wrap. They need to be placed in a bright room with an air temperature of about twenty degrees. The shelter must be removed daily to ventilate and moisturize the plantings. If germinated rather than dry seeds are used, seedlings usually appear within two weeks.
Diving seedlings
Before diving, the seedlings must be watered abundantly
When the first two well-developed leaves appear on the seedlings, a pick is made. For this, pots with a volume of at least three liters are taken, filled with a layer of drainage and nutrient soil. When using such large containers, plants at the time of transplantation into open ground will form a powerful root system, which will make it possible to develop strong shoots, their further rapid growth and the formation of large and numerous buds
Before you start diving, you need to shed the plantings well, and then carefully remove the seedlings from the old pots, and trying not to damage the earthen ball, transplant them into new ones. Plants need some kind of support, as they grow very quickly.
At the end of the season
In autumn, more often at the beginning of October, long three- and even four-meter lashes are cut off, and the wire mesh or arch beams are cleaned of antennae springs. Dig up the root ball. In order to grow a kobei in the same place every year, you need to immediately fill the resulting pits with fresh soil mixture. For the winter, the kobei must be cleaned, since its shoots, left on the support, have a huge windage. In addition, the sleet that has accumulated on the many intertwined vines with frozen leaves is quite heavy. Because of this, I suddenly bent and cracked a very strong metal "Dutch" arch. Moreover, everything happened not in winter, but at the end of October, when a lot of snow unexpectedly fell. Since then, I no longer put off digging up kobei.
In the south, it is possible to preserve the kobei in winter in the open field under a thick layer of well-rotted humus. In the conditions of the Moscow region, you can cut off the stems (at a height of 20 cm from the ground), then dig up a bush with roots and place it in a bucket, pour a small amount of soil on top and transfer it to a cool, non-freezing room. There, the kobei will be dormant until the onset of spring.
Rules for caring for kobei seedlings
If you strive to ensure that the kobeya grows strong and covers all the ugly areas in the country, you should adhere to easy rules: ● microclimate; ● schedule of watering and feeding; ● picking; ● hardening.
Microclimate
In order for the seedlings to grow correctly, it should arrange a favorable microclimate. The plant loves bright, warm places in the house, a window sill is also perfect.Before the first shoots appear, the air temperature should be in the range of 22-25 degrees. And after the ascent of the first buds, it is necessary to lower it to 18 degrees during the daytime, and to 16 degrees at night.
At the beginning of active growth, the kobe needs nitrogen-containing feedings, which are carried out once a week.
Watering and feeding schedule
Although the kobea plant is quite moisture-loving, it does not tolerate moisture stagnation, despite this. Watering should be done regularly, but not overdo it with water. The earthen soil should be moderately moist. Before the first shoots germinate, it is necessary to spray it from a spray bottle in order to prevent the upper part of the soil from drying out. After - as needed and the state of the top layer.
10 days after the first buds of the kobei appeared, fertilize it. As a bait, liquid fertilizer, which is designed specifically for flowering plants, seedlings, a mineral complex, humus or bird feces, will come down. Fertilizers are applied only after moistening, since if this kind of liquid gets on the roots of the kobei in arid soil, it will cause a burn and, as a result, the plant may die.
Picking
When two leaves are formed on the sprouts of the kobei, they, together with the earth, are transplanted into pots prepared in advance, the volume of which is about 3 liters. This will allow the roots to take root early and develop healthy shoots.
In addition, you need to think about the new support that young seedlings need. It can be in the form of a plastic, metal, wooden peg or ladder.
When transplanting in a larger container, do not forget to put special ladders to support the growing bush.
Hardening
So that no fungus or bacteria form on the soil and the efforts are not lost, the mini greenhouse must be ventilated every day for half an hour. A week before transplanting to open soil, you need to start hardening young loaches by exposing them to the street (or an open balcony), gradually increasing the hardening time. You need to start at one hour, then at two, and on the seventh day, the seedlings should remain outdoors throughout the day.
Care
Since this plant develops quickly, it requires a lot of nutrients. You need to start feeding the kobe two weeks after planting. During this time, the culture takes root and begins to grow rapidly.
For top dressing in the first month, fertilizers with a predominance of nitrogen are required, since the green mass of shoots and leaves is growing. And when the buds begin to appear, it is better to choose fertilizers where there is more phosphorus and potassium, they help the plant during flowering.
Watering the vine throughout the season should be done in moderation, except for very hot and dry days. At this time, the amount of water is increased, but care must be taken to ensure that there is no excessive moisture.
Climbing practically does not need pruning and shaping a kobe, but you can remove dried flowers so that the plant does not waste energy on the formation of seeds. And you also need to make sure that the vine does not entwine its neighbors growing next to it.
Aphids and spider mites can cause great harm to this vine. When aphids appear, the plant is treated with "Fufanon", "Aktellik", "Aktara" or "Bankop". Spraying is carried out with a gap of 2-4 weeks.
Spider mite
The spider mite is a very dangerous pest, after the attack of which the plants are quickly depleted. This pest most often appears during hot and dry periods. To prevent the appearance of spider mites, plants need to shower frequently and keep the soil from drying out. When this insect appears, the plants are treated with Aktelik, Fitoferm, Neoron. Two treatments are usually carried out.
With the onset of late autumn (before the first frost), the shoots of the kobei bush are cut off at a level of half a meter from the ground, and the highly branched root with a small lump of earth is carefully dug up and stored in a cool dry room with a temperature of 5 to 7 degrees. During the winter period, the bushes are regularly inspected and slightly moistened so that they do not dry out too much.
In the spring, when the last frosts have not yet passed, the plants can be planted in large containers with soil and begin to germinate them in a bright room. And with the onset of the time for planting in open ground (May - June, depending on the region), the plants will already have grown shoots.
When transplanting from a container into the ground, you need to keep an earthen lump with roots. At the end of it, the bush is watered with plenty of water, and then with Kornevin solution or another stimulant, which helps the formation of small white suction roots.
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How to grow a kobei from seeds
Since this is a tropical plant that does not tolerate freezing temperatures, it is grown in our region as seedlings. Except for the southern regions. At the first stage, seeds are sown in pots with soil, at the second stage, seedlings are planted in open ground.
The algorithm of actions is quite simple. If you adhere to all the recommendations for growing seedlings, choosing a place in the garden and planting seedlings directly in open ground, Kobeya will delight others with her luxurious flowering and tart-sweet aroma.
Sowing
For early germination of seeds, it is recommended to soak them. Would need:
- seeds;
- saucer;
- napkin or gauze;
- growth stimulant or manganese solution;
- plastic bag.
Spread a gauze or paper napkin on the surface of a saucer, slightly moisten with a solution that stimulates plant growth. Place the seed on a napkin so that each seed lies separately and does not come into contact with others. Cover the container with a plastic bag and place in a warm, bright place.
It is necessary to ensure that the napkin always remains damp, the seeds must be washed periodically in a solution of potassium permanganate to prevent the formation of mold. After washing, the seed is again laid out on a new napkin soaked in the stimulating solution.
Sometimes the seeds cannot germinate for a long time, then it is recommended to slightly pierce the seed with a thin needle.
Seedling
The first shoots will appear in 2-3 weeks. They can already be planted in containers with soil. For one plant, you need a pot with a diameter of 9-11 cm.
Light loose soil, it can be a universal mixture or soil for flowering crops, poured into a pot, slightly spilled with water at room temperature, make a small depression 1.5-1.7 cm in size, in which a seed with a Kobei sprout is carefully placed with the flat side down.
After the emergence of shoots, it is necessary to install a peg for each plant, to which the vine will cling. At the initial stage, the stem is tied to the support with twine. Containers with seedlings are placed in a room with a temperature of about + 15-18 degrees.
The lower the air temperature, the less Kobei will stretch. Sunlight also affects the growth of vines. More light - stronger and healthier than Kobei.
Growing kobei outdoors
There is nothing supernatural in caring for a vine, it will only require regular watering and a few dressings from you.
Water the plant abundantly, but at the same time make sure that the roots are not flooded, this is fraught with the development of root rot, this phenomenon often happens with vines growing in the shade.
Top dressing is carried out every week, starting from the first weeks of growth in a permanent place:
- first, nitrogen supplements are introduced, this contributes to the activation of growth;
- when forming buds, phosphorus and potash fertilizers will be required;
- then there is an alternation of organic matter and mineral additives, for example: "Kemir" and mullein.
It is necessary to weed and mulch the kobei constantly throughout the growing season.
In order to save the plant until next year, it is dug up at the end of October, before the onset of cold weather and stored in the basement of the house at a temperature of +12 degrees.
Kobeya reproduces well not only by seed, but also by cuttings. They are harvested in the spring and taken from parent bushes that have successfully overwintered at home. Rooting takes place in wet sand, and ready-made seedlings are planted in June.
It is noted that the bushes obtained by cuttings bloom faster, but the number of ovaries appears much less. For this reason, not every gardener uses this method.
The following types of kobei are most often used for growing from seeds: tenacious, climbing, creeping.
Kobeya is a unique climbing flowering plant. With proper care, it will give you an avalanche of greenery and beautiful flowers that will decorate the garden for three weeks. You will not get disappointment, on the contrary, you will get a lot of positive emotions.
Video clip:
Seedling
It will not be difficult for experienced gardeners to breed a home jungle from kobei. Beginners will have to spend a little more time studying agricultural technology, but it is also possible to achieve a positive result at low cost.
Kobei seedlings
Seed preparation
As soon as you buy seeds in the store, immediately consider: first you need to turn them into seedlings (planting seeds in open ground means dooming them to death). But for seedlings, seeds require some preparation:
- it is necessary that each seed be nailed before planting in the seedling containers;
- spread the seeds on a damp cloth (toilet paper or paper napkin folded in several layers is also suitable);
Soaking the seeds
- Moisten a cloth with seeds, cover with plastic wrap;
- place where it is not cold and there is good access to light;
- after 10-14 days, the seeds should hatch;
- if you see mold in places, gently wash the seeds and cloth (or change the paper);
- those seeds that have successfully hatched, it's time to plant them in the ground for growing seedlings.
Seed embedding
Now the prepared seeds need to be turned into seedlings that can adapt in the open field:
- for growing seedlings, sowing should be started in late February - early March;
- use boxes no more than 15-18 cm high;
- seeds require planting to a depth of 1.5 cm;
- lay them flat side down in the ground;
Sprouted Kobei seeds
- the temperature of the room where the box with seedlings is located should be 19-20 degrees;
- fill boxes 5-7 cm with soil from a specialized store (intended for flowers or for mixing with garden soil);