Question: how to grow hydrangea correctly

Features of care during flowering and wintering

Under indoor conditions, hydrangea begins to bloom in April, if from November to February it was at rest.

In winter, the plant sleeps, during this period the optimum temperature for it is + 5-8 ° C. To ensure such temperature conditions, it is advisable to put the flower in a dry cellar, water it occasionally so that the roots do not dry out. If there is no basement, then the hydrangea is placed in the coolest corner in the house.

At the end of February, the plant wakes up. He is taken from the cellar to a room with a normal room temperature. The standard watering, spraying, top dressing is resumed.

If the above conditions are not created in winter, then in spring the hydrangea will not bud.

Decoration of large premises

This can be the lobby of a hotel, hospital, or office building. That is, a large hall in which a large flowerpot or pot will be effectively placed. In this case, you can experiment with varieties, choosing those that you personally like more than others. For example, growing panicle hydrangea indoors is complicated by its large size. The graceful shrub, decorated with lace inflorescences, reaches 3 meters in height. But if the room allows, prepare large flowerpots and plant your favorite garden plant in them. As a result, you will be rewarded when the shrub blooms.

Is it possible to transplant flowering hydrangea

Experienced gardeners do not recommend disturbing the root system of a flowering shrub. Stress will surely lead to wilting of inflorescences and dropping of blossoming buds. This applies equally to indoor and outdoor hydrangeas of any variety. It is worth waiting not only for the end of flowering, but also for the onset of a suitable period of the year.

Transplanting a shrub is not too difficult for an experienced gardener. But it should be borne in mind that hydrangea is a very demanding plant, and you need to transplant only in a suitable season for this, choosing the right phase of culture development.

Watering

This question flows smoothly from the previous one. Growing large-leaved hydrangea in pots is an amazingly interesting process, but at the same time it is not easy. In order for the plant to feel great, a number of conditions must be observed. Hydrangea, both garden and potted, needs abundant watering. The soil in the pot should always be slightly damp. In warm weather, you will have to do this every day. But in winter, the frequency is noticeably reduced, because the plant retires. During this period, the earth is moistened in small portions, each time waiting for light drying.

In summer, you can choose between two watering methods:

• At the root.
• Moistening by immersing the pot in water.

Each of them has the right to life. Focus on what will be more convenient for you. Because of the plant's love for abundant watering, the pot must have excellent drainage with a height of at least 2 cm.Otherwise, the water may stagnate or sour.

Pruning hydrangea

I do sanitary pruning of hydrangeas, regardless of the species, in the spring.

• I remove thin, broken, inward-facing branches that cross and interfere with each other, leaving stronger ones.
• At the same time, I do a rejuvenating pruning, removing very old branches at ground level.
• As in all other bushes, I cover the finger cuts with garden pitch.

I cut the inflorescences in the fall so that the branches do not break under
the weight of the snow-covered inflorescences. You can leave pruning until spring as
in winter, bushes with inflorescences, fluffed with snow, create a fairytale atmosphere.

Treelike hydrangea can not be cut, just thin out too dense bushes. But then its decorativeness falls, the inflorescences become smaller, long branches break under the weight of flowers.To obtain large inflorescences, formative pruning is needed.

I prun the hydrangea every spring after the buds have swollen, at the beginning of May I make the branches of different lengths.

• I cut off old branches to 10 cm.
• The rest are up to 4-5 buds from the ground.
• Some only shorten to the first strong bud from the top of the bush. It seems to me that this increases the decorative effect of the shrub. Flowering will be early, the bush is lush, although the inflorescences are smaller.

I cut the panicle hydrangea every spring, shortening all the shoots by 15 cm. In addition, I form skeletal branches so that each strong branch has no more than two branches. I shape it like a tree. Many people prune the panicle hydrangea for 1-2 buds. But I want to see a powerful bush, and since we may not have summer, I'm afraid that the hydrangea will not have time to grow and bloom. The only thing that seems to me to be done is, after the buds begin to grow, pluck out the extra young shoots that thicken the bush.

In a garden hydrangea, flower buds are located at the top, at the ends of the shoots, so it is not cut off. Do only sanitary pruning, removing broken and frozen shoots.

In winter and summer

This is another important point to discuss when talking about care and cultivation. Home hydrangea needs winter rest. At this time, the temperature should be no more than +5 degrees. The plant also tolerates indicators of -5 Celsius, that is, you can put the pots on the balcony. This will only benefit the flower. It will rest well and form many kidneys. If you have an unheated, but glazed loggia, then consider that all wintering problems are solved. But on open balconies, the hydrangea will freeze, for this it is poorly adapted.

Here, seasoned gardeners can begin to argue that in the open field it calmly tolerates frosts of -30 degrees. This is true, but there is a large layer of soil, which retains relative warmth under the snow. That is, only the upper crust freezes. But a small pot will freeze completely, and the root system will die.

How to plant a flower bush correctly

When planting a hydrangea on a site, it is important not only to take into account the favorable conditions for the plant, but also to comply with all the rules for planting it. The sequence of work is as follows:

The sequence of work is as follows:

• determining the planting site, the future location of hydrangea bushes, checking the soil for pH;
• digging out recesses for planting sizes 40cm * 40cm * 40cm for young seedlings, 50cm * 50cm * 50cm for perennial shrubs, observing the distance between them about one and a half meters;
• filling pits for planting with enriched soil mixed with mineral fertilizers;
• the formation of hilly elevations from the ground in the depressions;
• pruning of elongated roots of young seedlings;
• pruning shoots and shriveled inflorescences from old bushes, if planting is carried out in the fall;
• arrangement of seedlings on hills, spreading of roots;
• filling the grooves with the remaining soil, while the last layer should not cover the root collar of the bush;
• abundant watering;
• soil compaction;
• mulching with bark and sawdust.

If the seedlings are planted in the fall, then in a month you should take care of their feeding and shelter for the winter. The ground around the seedling is covered with spruce branches, peat, dry foliage. In order to protect the shoots from frost, the bush itself is covered with a greenhouse film, which is fixed with a greenhouse thread. If the branches of the bush are long, for the convenience of shelter from the cold they are carefully tucked up and tied.

Varietal variety

Countless varieties of hydrangea have been developed. There are plants with monochromatic and variegated flowers. Some varieties are able to change color with chemical changes in the soil. For this ability, the hydrangea was nicknamed phytochameleon.

Light

Of the varieties with light flowers, it should be noted:

1. Madame Mouillet.The inflorescences reach 20 cm in diameter, the petals are at first snow-white, by the end of flowering they acquire a pale pink or pale blue color.
2. Sister Teresa. Inflorescences are large, up to 30 cm in diameter. The flowers are white, with a barely noticeable lilac tint, but before withering, they acquire a pinkish-green color.

Blue

Popular varieties with blue flowers:

1. Earley Blue. A neat small bush with a developed root system. The diameter of the inflorescences is 30 cm. The petals are blue with a purple tint. Until fully blooming, they have a greenish tone.
2. Niko Blue. The variety is characterized by fast growth. The flowers are deep blue in color, which becomes brighter in acidic soil.

Pink

Of the pink varieties, the following are popular:

1. Mars. The inflorescences are large, up to 30 cm in diameter. The flowers are light crimson with a white border. Fading, the petals take on a greenish tint.
2. Miss Saori. Inflorescences are small, up to 20 cm. Petals are milky white with a pink border. The color is constant, does not depend on the level of acidity of the soil. The leaves are deep green with a purple tint.

Red

Of the common red varieties, it should be noted:

1. Delight. A bush with a lush crown. Inflorescences - up to 20 cm. Flowers are deep red.
2. Red's move. The bush is lush, but the inflorescences are small, up to 15 cm in diameter. The petals are red, but with an increase in the acidity of the soil, they acquire a purple tone.

Multicolor

Of the variegated varieties, it should be called:

1. Schloss Wackerbart. The diameter of the inflorescences is up to 30 cm. The flowers are pink with a blue core and a green border. Light stamens are visible.
2. Bavaria. Inflorescences - 20 cm. Flowers are lemon-yellow with a blue-violet core and a white border.

Fertilizing hydrangea

Like most plants, I fertilize hydrangea four times.
for the season.

I do the first feeding in the spring, when the ground warms up and the first leaves appear.

• Pre-acidify the soil by spilling water with the addition of citric acid.
• I spread two tablespoons into a bucket and spill it over the bucket under the bush.
• At this time, the plant needs nitrogen for the growth of green mass. But with an excess of nitrogen, the hydrangea does not bloom well, and the inflorescences become green in color.
• For 10 liters of water, you need to take 20 g of urea and 30 g of superphosphate and potassium sulfate. Superphosphate must first be poured overnight with hot water as it does not dissolve well.
• I usually fertilize with nitroammophos - 20g per 10L of water.

It is good to feed the currants with a slightly pink solution of potassium permanganate in a bucket under the bush.

• I spend 5 dressings per season with an interval of two weeks, starting in May.
• Along with mineral fertilizers, I also add organic fertilizers.
• I water the infusion of manure or green fertilizer from nettle in a bucket on a bush.
• I fill the manure with water in a ratio of 1:10 and insist for a week.
• Then I spread 1 liter of manure in a bucket of water.
• I water with organic fertilizers until mid-summer.

The second top dressing is carried out at the beginning of budding, I apply fertilizers, where phosphorus and potassium prevail. Phosphorus contributes to the development of the root system and the formation of buds. Potassium is responsible for the quality of flowering, color of flowers. I use monopotassium phosphate - 1 tablespoon per bucket of water acidified with 2 tablespoons of citric acid - 5 liters per bush. At the same time I spill infusion of herbs, 1 liter per 10 liters of water.

I spend the third feeding at the first opening of the buds.

• I spill it with potassium permanganate.
• A week later, with a solution of monopotassium phosphate, in the same way as with the second feeding.
• At this time, magnesium is needed for high-quality flowering and brightness of hydrangea flowers. I dilute 1 teaspoon in 10 liters of warm water and spill it over the sheet.
• A few hours before dressing, I spill the earth.
• Usually I water it in the evening, and in the morning I feed it.

The fourth feeding is carried out
in September. Nitrogen must not be added during this time. The plant needs phosphorus and most importantly
potassium for good wintering. I take 2 tablespoons of superphosphate for a bucket of water
and potassium sulfate. After ten days, potassium magnesium is 20 g per 10 liters of water.

But I think,
that instead of mineral dressings it is easier to make
specialized fertilizers for hydrangeas and rhododendrons, in which
contains all the necessary elements. How
I already wrote, for garden hydrangeas I use special fertilizers for blue
or red hydrangeas. Autumn bushes
I mulch with coniferous litter or pine needles with a layer of 15 cm.

This is all that I wanted to tell you about the beautiful hydrangea, which, along with the rose, bears the proud name of the queen of the garden. Even a few of these adorable plants will decorate your garden and make it admirable.

I hope you enjoyed this article, Hydrangea: Planting and Nursing Outdoors (PHOTOS). Please read our article Roses: Outdoor Planting and Care for Newbies in the Moscow Region. (PHOTO)

Join our group on Odnoklassniki to receive announcements of new articles directly to the feed.

Growing from seeds

This breeding method is quite complicated and is suitable for experienced flower growers, because it will take a lot of patience to grow indoor hydrangea from seeds. Start sowing at the end of winter. For the substrate, mix the following components:

• two parts of sod land;
• part of the peat;
• two parts of humus;
• one part of sand;
• two pieces of sheet soil.

Fill a shallow container with decontaminated substrate. Spread the seeds evenly over the surface of the soil, but do not plant them inward. Sprinkle the planting with warm water from a spray bottle and cover the crops with plastic or glass. Place the greenhouse in a warm, bright place. Air the seeds daily and remember to moisturize the substrate. Wipe up condensation from the shelter if necessary.

When the first shoots appear, gradually remove the cover. When two true leaves appear on the seedlings, dive them into deeper containers filled with a substrate with the same composition. Spray the seedlings without letting the soil dry out. When the seedlings have enough leaves, transplant them into separate pots.

Suitable varieties

Seasoned florists have a list of time-tested varieties that thrive in a pot and decorate a room. Growing hydrangeas in a pot at home is a very interesting experience.

Pay attention to the following varieties:

• Souer Tharese is a variety with white, simple, semi-double flowers.
• Madame Emile Mouillere is one of the most winter-hardy species.
• Hamburg is a hydrangea whose corollas have a smooth transition from pink to lilac.
• Europa - blooms very luxuriantly, for which it fell in love with flower growers.
• Periodically, new varieties appear on the market, so if you are interested in this plant, then you will not be bored. But even if there are lush bushes on the garden plot, growing hydrangeas in a pot at home is a completely different matter. Today we'll talk about how to care for a plant so that it pleases with lush growth.

When is it better to transplant a hydrangea: in spring or autumn, is it possible in summer

Hydrangeas are quite demanding, therefore, when transplanting them to another site, agronomic recommendations should be followed so that the bushes take on well and bloom profusely in the future.
The best time of the year for planting this perennial crop is early spring (from March to April inclusive), since there are long summer and autumn ahead, which means that before the arrival of severe frosts, the plants will have time to acclimate after the procedure.

It is also permissible to plant shrubs in the fall (from the second half of September to the end of October), but in this case, the gardener needs to protect them well from the cold, since even frost-resistant species may not survive the first winter.

Top dressing

If the hydrangea was planted in fertilized soil, for two years in a row you can not worry about feeding. According to general rules, acidic dressings (potassium sulfate or ammonium sulfate) are introduced until July. Starting in July and ending in October, it is advisable to use potassium-phosphorus (this is superphosphate or bone meal).

The plant needs to be provided with nutrients so that it grows at a fast pace and pleases with its abundant flowering.

• Complex food for growth. Until mid-May, you can feed the hydrangea with fertilizer based on minerals: 25 to 35 g of mineral fertilizer are taken for a 10-liter bucket of water. Another option: 1 tbsp. urea + 2 tbsp. superphosphate + 1 tbsp. potassium sulfate. Mineral fertilizers are used in combination with organic ones. For example, an addition is effective: infusion of mullein or bird droppings in a ratio of 1:10. repeat feeding after 2 weeks.
• To improve flowering, it is worth using potassium-phosphorus fertilizing. 13-15 days before the hydrangea blooms (June 1-15), it is necessary to make a liquid top dressing. To do this, 75 g of superphosphate and 50 g of potassium sulfate are dissolved in a bucket of water. The bush is watered with the resulting solution.
• During the flowering period, it is advisable to feed the hydrangea. When the hydrangea blooms profusely, you need to feed it as described above. This must be done so that the flowering period is extended, as well as so that new flower buds are formed in the future.

Recommendations! ”] Wood ash is not suitable as a top dressing. Fertilizers that are used for rhododendron and heather species are perfect.

If the soil is oversaturated with nitrogen, this will lead to bad consequences: resistance to low temperatures will be reduced, flowering will not be so abundant, rot will be activated. Only during April - May this type of fertilizer should be applied.

It's worth remembering! ”] Too much fertilizer, especially organic fertilizers (mullein, droppings), can be harmful. Better, in this case, a lack of fertilizers than a surplus.

Is it possible to plant an indoor hydrangea in open ground and how to do it correctly

Any variety of indoor hydrangea can be transplanted into open ground. The procedure is carried out in the same way - a hole is prepared, the plant is moved and the roots are sprinkled with earth.

To make the bush move away from the container better, put the pot on its side, carefully draw a ruler between the walls and roots

It is important not to stop abundant watering, plant feeding.

There should be no doubt whether it is possible to grow a hydrangea in a pot at home. The plant requires careful and constant care, but the abundance of flowers and large inflorescences will delight any owner.

vote

Article Rating

Preparing hydrangeas for winter

In autumn, panicle hydrangea, like other species, must be covered for the winter before the first frosts. It is a pity, but all types of hydrangeas, on the territory of Russia, cannot do without shelter

That is why it is important to pay special attention to preparing garden hydrangeas for the winter season.

Treelike hydrangea tolerates the effects of low temperatures best of all. Despite this, it will also need to be insulated for the winter so that the ends of young branches do not freeze.

All leaves are removed without touching the top ones. This is done in order to speed up the process of lignification of the branches. Hydrangea needs fertilizing. You can use potassium-phosphorus fertilizers (nitrogen must be excluded in the autumn. After that, you can start covering the bushes.

How to cover a hydrangea for the winter?

This plant is covered for the winter in different ways. The methods depend on the area in which the hydrangea grows. In the South of Russia, the treelike or paniculate hydrangea is only huddled high. This turns out to be enough.

In the event that severe winters are characteristic of the region, then you should not hope that the hydrangea will tolerate them well and will not suffer from frost. Better to play it safe and wrap up the plants. If they are not very large, they are covered with peat and covered with polyethylene on top. There is no need to be afraid that the plant will start to rot. That will not happen.

1. Experienced gardeners advise using a method that has proven its effectiveness.With its help, a young plant of a small size is covered without damaging it. To do this, you need to tie a bush with a rope, slowly pull it without sudden movements, to the ground, onto which boards with nails are driven. A hydrangea is tied to them. Sawdust (or coniferous branches) is placed on top, on top of which they put a sheet of old iron, lutrasil No. 30 (you can - spunbond).
2. Also, a good result was proved by this method: you need to cover the near-trunk circle with spruce branches, bend the branches to the ground radially, on the sides of the center of the bush. After this, the bases of the branches that are laid should be fixed with metal or wooden brackets. Next, you need to pour peat into the center of the bush. Pine branches are placed on top of the lying branches, on top of it - lutrasil (it is pressed down with heavy objects from the wind). This type of shelter will enable the hydrangea to “calmly” withstand even a temperature of -40 in winter.
3. If the shrub is old, its branches have difficulty bending to the ground. In this case, there is a good way. The shrub must be wrapped in lutrasil, fixed with rope or tape. After that, a frame is formed over the hydrangea using a metal mesh. It should be at a height of 12 to 15 cm from the shrub to be covered. A lot of dry foliage should be placed in the middle of the frame. This whole structure is covered with polyethylene or roofing felt.

It has been established that hydrangea has the following property: to increase its resistance to low temperatures every year. Time will pass, and it will be possible not to cover the bushes. In the meantime, in the first few years of a hydrangea's life, it will definitely need to be covered for the winter, despite the possible warm winters.

Diseases and pests of garden hydrangea

It can be stated that hydrangea is a plant resistant to various diseases and pests. Nevertheless, it can be amazed by:

1. Aphid. It is destroyed with garlic infusion. To make it, you need to insist for 2 days in a bucket of water 200 g of garlic (finely chop). The addition of 40 grams of laundry soap will not interfere with the solution. The plant is sprayed once a week.
2. Powdery mildew. This pest can infect the bush if the humidity is high. As soon as it became noticeable, it is worth using special fungicidal agents or Treat the shrub with a solution of soap and copper sulfate.
3. Chlorosis. This will be evidenced by the foliage, which from a brightly saturated shade will become lightened. This can happen because there is too much lime or humus in the soil. You can get rid of chlorosis by watering the bush in turn after 3 days with a solution of potassium nitrate and copper sulfate.

Lighting

And you go ahead and continue to consider growing and caring at home. Large-leaved hydrangea prefers shady places. Penumbra is also very well tolerated by her. But direct sunlight is contraindicated for her. But this rule applies to street varieties. Often, flower growers transfer them to a home hydrangea, highlighting the farthest and darkest corner for it.

In this case, placement far from the light source threatens to stop growth, if not the death of the flower. Do not confuse partial shade on the street and at home, these are two different things. In the garden, the plant receives a sufficient amount of diffused light. But at home, far from the window, it will experience an acute shortage of it. This will negatively affect growth and development.

That is, the question of choosing a place should be taken very seriously. Since growing hydrangeas at home is required with enough sunlight, east and west windows are well suited. Direct rays are really contraindicated for her, so if the sun is too bright in the first or second half of the day, then you need to cover the window with a matte film. South windows are also used with rather thick curtains. You can adjust the lighting by moving the pot away from the light source or moving closer to it.

Where to plant hydrangea

Choose a planting site for hydrangea, based on its needs.

Plant shrubs in areas that are comfortable for him, namely:

• in partial shade or on sunny plots of the estate (the place is determined depending on the requirements of the variety);
• from the east or south side of the estate, if you choose north or southwest, you should evaluate the intensity of the sun's rays on the site, often the north side is always in the shade;
• in an area with an acidic and moderately humid environment;
• on estates closed from drafts with good moisture permeability;
• on fertilized soils;
• far from garden trees with a large crown, taking moisture from the soil and forming a shade, since the hydrangea dies in the shade and without a moist environment;
• not close to other flower beds, because Hydrángea is a spreading shrub that grows very quickly and displaces flowers planted next to it with a shadow from its stems and inflorescences;
• on spacious garden segments - if there is an open area in the garden of no more than two meters in diameter, then it is better to plant only one hydrangea within it, because its crown can expand by three meters;
• far from moisture-loving plants;
• on hills and hills with a high standing of groundwater in a personal plot;
• on calm areas near buildings and outbuildings, but taking into account a distance of several meters from the roofs in order to prevent snow and frost from falling on the bushes in winter;
• along the perimeter of garden paths at a distance of several meters.

When is the best time to transplant the hydrangea to another location

Carrying out the procedure, you need to remember that climatic conditions differ from each other in different geographic latitudes. As a result, the time of work will shift in one direction or another. The timing of planting hydrangeas in Central Russia is unlikely to be suitable for the Ural parks. The reason is the discrepancy in the temperature regime of different seasons of the year, as well as their duration. For example, the Siberian spring is fast, hot and impetuous, and in the Moscow region it is unhurried, smooth, lasting from 2 to 3 months.

Did you know? Huge hydrangea inflorescences are located at the tips of the shoots and consist of several hundred small flowers with 4–5 petals.

In outskirts of Moscow

Quite often, winters in the Moscow region are very harsh, when the air temperature drops to -15 ... -20 ° C. But this is offset by long periods of spring and autumn, as well as mild heat and heavy rainfall in summer. Thanks to such climatic conditions, gardeners can transplant any type of hydrangea both at the beginning and at the end of the warm season. It is advisable to build a winter shelter over the transplanted plant in late November or early December.

When a hydrangea variety was transplanted that cannot be cut off during the current period, it is recommended to insulate its aboveground part for the winter. If this is not done, fruit buds may suffer from low temperatures, as a result of which the bush will bloom only after a year. You can use white lutrasil, spunbond, or other non-woven material for protection from the cold. When buying, it is recommended to choose thick agrofibre, with a fiber density of at least 30.0 g / 1 m².

Did you know? To give the snow-white inflorescences of garden hydrangea a blue or blue color, it is worth adding acid to the soil. To do this, the ground in the near-trunk circle is watered with water with the addition of ammonium sulfate or potassium sulfate.

In the Urals and Siberia

In cold regions of the country, it is recommended to replant hydrangea at the beginning of the warm season. In the region of Siberia or the Urals, the shrub will then have time to grow new roots in about 4-6 months. The gardener should take into account that the cold in this area comes early, and the first night frosts may come as early as late August or early September. This means that work on the transplantation of a thermophilic culture must be carried out no later than the first ten days of May.It is optimal if at that moment the soil thaws two bayonets of the shovel into the depth.

In the Far East

The climate in this region is much milder than in northern Siberia, but the winter is just as long and frosty, and the spring is stormy and short, quickly turning into summer. Here, a spring transplant is also preferable, allowing the hydrangea to adapt and grow until winter. If, nevertheless, there is a need to complete this work later, then for this it is better to choose the end of summer: the second half of August or the first ten days of September.

In this case, it is recommended to do a strong pruning at ground level, despite the type of hydrangea, and cover the surface of the soil warmly, under which the root ball is located. Warming is carried out with the onset of stable subzero temperatures. In the Far East, this period falls around the beginning or mid-October.

Important! The gardener should not cover the hydrangea too early for the winter, as this can lead to the formation of fungus and mold on the aboveground part, as well as rotting of the roots. It is best to carry out insulation work when the average daily temperature drops below -10 ° C.

Planting hydrangeas

Hydrangea from seed

Species hydrangeas can perfectly multiply from seeds. This method is also used as a selection experiment. How can you grow a hydrangea using the seed method? This process will not be difficult, but it will take time.

In the fall, plant hydrangea seeds in a pot (or container) in nutritious loose soil. It should contain the following components: leaf and peat soil + river sand (proportion 4: 2: 1).

After the seeds are sown in the substrate, 1 more layer of earth is poured on top, and sprayed with a spray.

The pot must be covered with polyethylene (glass is possible). At regular intervals, it must be removed in order to ventilate the crops and moisten the ground. It should be slightly damp.

Pay attention! ”] The required temperature regime should be maintained from +14 to +20 degrees. When the first shoots appear (this usually happens after 1-1.5 months), you can no longer cover the pot

It is necessary to dive seedlings 2 times: 1 time when the cotyledon leaves develop, 2 times - in May. When 2 picks are carried out, the seedlings, one at a time, must be planted in pots, the diameter of which is about 7 cm. After the 2nd pick was made, young hydrangeas must be hardened by exposing them to the street during the day. The main thing is that the sun, rain, and there is no wind on them. At night, you need to bring the seedlings into the house.

It is worth taking note! ”] Hydrangea is a light-loving bush. The place for planting it should be well lit, but not very open, so that the sun's rays do not burn the plant during the hot season.

Indoors, hydrangeas are grown for about 2 years. During the winter period, she needs to provide light and coolness at home. With the onset of summer, she (if possible) is put out on the street

Important! The buds must be removed so that young plants do not waste their energy on flowering. Here we talked about: What varieties and types of hydrangeas are best grown in a summer cottage.

Hydrangea seedlings

Saplings that have grown should be planted in the place chosen for them, in open soil. This is done after 2 years. If the gardener lives in a cold region of Russia, then planting is carried out in the fall, and if in a warm region of the Russian Federation, then in early spring. When a gardener selects a place for a hydrangea in his area, he should know that any type of hydrangea is photophilous.

But there are also exceptions. These are the species that are not averse to growing in a light shaded place. Such varieties include: rough hydrangea, Sargent, tree, ground cover.

As for the soil for growing, it is worth choosing a neutral, or slightly acidic, enriched with organic fertilizers. If the soil is alkaline, acidify it with high-moor peat or Acid Plus acidifier.

It is necessary to make sure that no trees or bushes with a similar root structure grow next to the hydrangea.

This is important because, over time, the hydrangea and its neighbors may struggle to obtain nutrients and water in the upper layers of the soil. How to plant hydrangea seedlings

1. We need to dig a hole. It is made 2 times more than an earthen lump of a seedling.
2. You need to add peat, mineral fertilizers, and organic fertilizers to the dug hole. All this mixes with the earth.
3. The seedling, together with the soil, is taken out of the container. Gently need to shake off the ground a little from the roots, straighten them.
4. Dip into the pit.
5. Cover with soil mixed with compost so that the roots protrude slightly above the soil surface.
6. The soil needs to be tamped.
7. Water the seedling.
8. The site must be mulched with bark or needles.

It's worth keeping in mind! ”] Hortense is a loner. You should not add different neighbors to her, including those who belong to her species. If there is a need for neighbors, then you need to take care of the distance so that the roots of the plants do not start fighting with each other. A tree nearby is an undesirable neighbor, since its root system is much stronger. By dragging all the moisture and nutrients onto itself, it can destroy the hydrangea.