Puktsiniastrum spotted

Main varieties and species with photos and names

Amaranth paniculata, or crimson (Amaranthus paniculatus = Amaranthus cruentus)

Often they are used to decorate flower beds, and are also used for cutting and for assembling bouquets, both ordinary and winter. In height, such an annual can reach 75-150 centimeters. The leaf plates are oblong-ovoid, brown-red in color, their apex is elongated. Small red flowers are found in erect inflorescences. Flowering begins in June and lasts until the first frost. It has been cultivated since 1798. There are several forms:

• nana - undersized form, the height of the bush does not exceed half a meter;
• cruentus - drooping inflorescences consist of red flowers;
• sanguineus - inflorescences are arranged vertically and have hanging tips.

The most popular are low-growing varieties, the height of which is from 25 to 40 centimeters:

1. Rother Paris and Rother Dam - the height of the bush is from 50 to 60 centimeters, the leaf plates are dark red, and the flowers are maroon.
2. Grunefakel and Zwergfakel - the height of the bush is no more than 35 centimeters, with inflorescences of dark green and purple color, respectively.
3. Hot Biscuit is the highest grade, so a bush can reach 100 centimeters. The inflorescences are orange-red, and the leaves are green.

Amaranth dark, or sad (Amaranthus hypochondriacus)

This species is unbranched, and its average height is about 150 centimeters. Pointed leaf plates have an oblong-lanceolate shape, and they are painted in green-purple or purple. The vertically arranged inflorescences have the shape of spike-shaped panicles. They can be of different colors, but the most common are dark red. It has been cultivated since 1548. There is a blood-red form called sanguineus, which has hanging inflorescences. Varieties:

1. Pigmi Torch - the bush reaches a height of 60 centimeters. The inflorescences are dark purple, but in autumn they change their color to chestnut, while the leaves become multi-colored.
2. Green Tamb - the height of the bush is about 40 centimeters. The color is a mixture of various tones of emerald hue. They are often used to form dry bouquets.

Amaranth tricolor (Amaranthus tricolor)

This amaranth is decorative and deciduous. The height of the bush can vary from 0.7 to 1.5 meters. Shoots are erect, they form a pyramidal bush. The leaf plates are elongated, they are narrow or ovoid, sometimes wavy. Their color consists of 3 colors, namely green, yellow and red. Young foliage is very showy and has a rich color. Flowering lasts from early summer until the first frost. There are several varieties:

• willow (salicifolius) - narrow wavy leaf plates are painted in a greenish-bronze color, their length is 20 centimeters, and their width is 0.5 centimeters;
• red-green (rubriviridis) - leaf plates of a violet-ruby color, there are specks of green on them;
• red (ruber) - blood-red leaf plates;
• bright (splendens) - there are brown spots on the dark green leaf plates.

Popular varieties:

1. Illumination - a strong bush reaches a height of 0.7 m. The leaves are large and very beautiful. Young foliage has a yellowish-red color, more mature foliage is orange-red, and the one below is a bronze tint.
2. Aurora - the apical leaf plates are wavy and painted in yellow-golden color.
3. Earley Splender - the apical leaf plates of a rich crimson color, while the lower ones are almost black with a greenish-purple tint.

Amaranth caudatus (Amaranthus caudatus)

Under natural conditions, it is found in tropical regions of Asia, Africa and South America. Strong erect shoots in height can reach 150 centimeters. Large, oblong-ovoid leaf plates are colored greenish-purple or green. Small flowers can be greenish yellow, dark red or crimson. They are part of the glomeruli of a spherical shape. And these glomeruli are collected in long hanging paniculate inflorescences.Flowering is observed from early summer until October. It has been cultivated since 1568. There are several forms:

• white - whitish green flowers;
• green - inflorescences are light green, this form is popular among florists;
• bead-shaped - the flowers are collected in a whorl, and they are very similar to the long beads that were strung on the shoot.

Popular varieties:

1. Rothschwants - the color of the inflorescences is red.
2. Grunschwants - the color of the inflorescences is pale green.

These 2 varieties have a bush with a height of about 75 centimeters. The plant is quite powerful and large.

Symptoms of intracardiac blood clots

The clinical picture depends on the form and location of thrombus formation:

• With an immobile thrombus, in rare cases, an accelerated heartbeat and shortness of breath in a sitting position are determined.
• A movable thrombus in the left atrium provokes the appearance of symptoms such as the appearance of cold sweat, debilitating attacks of heartbeat, loss of consciousness, severe pallor of the skin, against which the cyanosis of the fingers and lips is noticeable.
• For a spherical thrombus or when it is attached to a leg, it is common to feel unwell in a sitting position. The appearance of this symptom is explained by the prolapse of a thrombus and its blockage of the venous opening. When such a patient takes a horizontal position, it becomes much easier for him.

In some cases, there is a reflex spasm of the cerebral vessels due to an increase in the excitability of the atrial appendage region. A similar condition can provoke a semi-fainting or fainting state.

Acute disorders of the activity of various organs can indicate the separation of a blood clot in the heart cavity and its entry into the general blood flow system:

• acute ischemic stroke, often manifested by changes in vision and speech, as well as paralysis, occurs due to thromboembolism of the cerebral vessels;
• acute myocardial infarction is expressed by severe pain in the region of the heart, a shock state and often develops against the background of blocking blood flow in the coronary artery;
• blockage of the jugular vein in the neck is often manifested by a sharp dizziness, a very severe headache;
• embolism of the kidney arteries is accompanied by severe pain that is localized in the lumbar region and may be accompanied by a urinary disorder;
• the cessation of blood circulation in the mesenteric vessels leads to severe peritonitis, complicated by necrosis of the intestinal loops, and is expressed by palpable abdominal pain, bloating of the intestines;
• blockage of the vessels of the lower and upper extremities leads to the appearance of pronounced pallor, cooling of the extremities, an increased risk of gangrene formation with subsequent amputation.

If the blood clot is on the left in the atrium, it develops symptoms such as:

• tachycardia;
• fainting;
• numbness of the limbs;
• the pulse is quickened;
• dyspnea;
• chest pain;
• hypotension;
• pallor of the skin all over the body.

The first symptoms of a blood clot in the heart are listed above, you must try to notice them in time and go to the hospital.

Symptoms of an immobile thrombus in the heart may be absent for a long period of time. In some cases, this is manifested by tachycardia and the appearance of shortness of breath. In this case, shortness of breath occurs even when a person is at rest. All this time, the blood clot will remain in the heart in a motionless state.

If a blood clot in the heart is mobile and moves freely in its cavity, then this will be accompanied by the following symptoms:

• Cardiopalmus. Patients compare this feeling with the movement of a foreign body, which is located inside the chest.

• Blue skin.

• Increased sweating.

• Dizziness.

• Loss of consciousness, or light-headedness.

• Weakening of the pulsation of the radial artery.

If a blood clot bursts in the right atrium, then this situation leads to pulmonary thromboembolism. As a result, the person dies.

The following signs may indicate the presence of a blood clot in the heart:

• Treatment with antiarrhythmic drugs does not bring the desired effect.

• The patient develops pulmonary hypertension.

• Medicines do not reduce pain in the heart.

However, only a doctor can make an accurate diagnosis, based on a number of studies.

Thrombosis of the coronary veins and arteries (heart vessels) manifests itself as angina pectoris with incomplete stenosis and myocardial infarction with complete stenosis.

There are many options:

• Pulmonary embolism (PE): from a slight increase in temperature and cough to shock, fainting and tachycardia (depending on how much of the pulmonary surface was "without food").
• TE of the brain: stroke;
• TE of spinal cord vessels: paralysis, sensory disorder;
• TE of coronary vessels: acute myocardial infarction;
• TE of mesenteric vessels: a picture of an acute abdomen;
• TE of other internal organs: infarction of these organs;
• TE of limb vessels: ischemia of limb tissues with the threat of gangrene.

Description of large-leaved hydrangea

Every gardener dreams of having a large-leaved macrophylla garden hydrangea on his plot. She is the most spectacular among the five types of hydrangeas that can grow and survive in the local conditions. Recall that this plant can be treelike, paniculate, ground cover, petiolate and large-leaved (macrophile).

Growing up in favorable conditions, our "beauty" can turn into a real bush. From the Greek language, hydrangea has inherited another name - hydrangia. The first part of this word says that the plant loves water very much. Hydrangeas are most common in America and East Asia. In total, there are about 80 species of hydrangeas.

Europeans brought the plant from Japan in the 19th century. Since then, it has been marching victoriously across the Eurasian continent. But large-leaved hydrangea was already bred in France. And still, this type of hydrangea is least adapted to Russian climatic conditions.

Macrophylla is distinguished by large, ovoid, opposite, bright green leaves in spring and summer. By autumn, they tend to blush, which makes the bushes even more decorative.

Flowers of large-leaved hydrangea are large, can reach 3 cm in diameter. All of them form large large inflorescences (caps). These inflorescences can reach up to 20 cm in coverage. Flower shades are very different and very soft. There are pale pink, blue, pastel blue, crimson, pale purple, lilac inflorescences. The most common, of course, are white hydrangeas.

The plant blooms in July. After that, the inflorescences do not fall off, but begin to turn green, and can persist on the branches until spring. Many people grow the large-leaved hydrangea as a pot plant. New frost-resistant varieties allow you to take care of it in the open field.

Stefanandra varieties with photos

There are 4 types of stefanandra in nature. However, in mid-latitude gardens, only 2 of them are cultivated: Stephanandra notched-leaved and Tanaki.

Notched-leaved stephanandra (stephanandra incisa)

This slow-growing plant is maximum in diameter and reaches a height of about 200 cm. In order for a shrub to grow to this size, it takes 25 to 30 years. All summer and throughout September, it retains its decorative effect. Lush bloom begins in June and ends in August. But in September, the bush is decorated with bright foliage. In winter, those parts of the plant that are not covered with snow are damaged by frost and die off. However, with the onset of spring, the plant quickly recovers, but throughout the next season it may not bloom.

As a result of breeding work, a dwarf subspecies was born, which is called Crispa. The height of such a plant is only about 0.6 m, and in diameter it reaches about 200 cm.This bush looks extremely impressive and unusual on the garden plot, like a small pillow consisting of foliage.Such a shrub grows many shoots, which eventually tend to the soil surface. They often take root, due to which the bush grows in breadth.

Stephanandra tanakae

This species, unlike the rest, is relatively vigorous: in height it can reach about 200 cm, and in diameter - up to 400 cm.The length of large foliage can reach up to 100 mm, and its lush inflorescences also reach about 100 mm in diameter. The flowering of this plant does not last as long as compared to other species. It begins in July and ends in late summer or early autumn. With the onset of the autumn period, the bush does not lose its showiness. At this time, its foliage is painted in various bright shades: burgundy red, yellow and brown. Frost resistance in this shrub is low. To preserve the bush until spring, it must be sprinkled and wrapped.

Home care

Growing pseudoerantemum at home is possible only with careful care.

• Lighting. The plant requires bright light, but diffused without direct sunlight. An ideal place for a flower would be the east or west side. The southern one is also suitable, provided there is a diffusing screen on the window. The required daylight hours are 12-14 hours. Accordingly, in autumn and winter, you cannot do without additional lighting, otherwise the foliage of the plant will fade and lose its patterns. The increase in illumination will also not do the flower good. The plant will stop growing and the leaves will turn red.
• Temperature conditions. The optimum temperature for the life of the pseudo-erantemum is 20-25 degrees Celsius. Drafts and sudden temperature fluctuations are contraindicated for him. When the temperature reaches 15 degrees and below, the plant may die.
• Air humidity. Tropical origin requires high humidity all year round, especially during the heating season. It is necessary to spray the leaves with soft, filtered water at least twice a day.
• Watering. The large leaves of the flower actively evaporate moisture, so you need to carefully monitor the state of the top layer of the earth. As soon as it dries up, then it is necessary to water the plant with settled water without chlorine. When watering, carefully observe the condition of the flower. Too dry soil can lead to foliage dumping, and excessive watering can lead to rotting of shoots and roots.
• Earth. For the consciousness of a favorable soil, it is necessary to mix humus, leafy, sod and peat soil in equal parts, and add a little coarse sand or vermiculite. Pour the finished mixture into a pot only on a good drainage layer.
• Fertilizers. Pseudoerantemum needs feeding only in spring and summer. To enhance the brightness of the leaves, it is recommended to use fertilizers with a high content of potassium and phosphorus. But it is better to refuse nitrogen fertilizers, since they adversely affect the variegation of foliage.
• Pruning. The flower grows rapidly and requires periodic pruning and direction of the shoots to maintain its decorative appearance. Due to the fact that most shoots grow vertically, you can change their direction by fixing with a cord. This allows for a fluffier crown to form.
• Transfer. The plant grows rapidly and requires annual replanting. A pot that is too tight can lead to foliage shedding. A new pot is selected 2-3 centimeters larger than the previous one, and the root system is pruned during transplantation.
• Reproduction. The pseudo-erantemum is propagated by cuttings. Cut off young shoots 10-15 centimeters long and root them in a glass with potting soil or water.

Features of the variety

Hydrangea paniculata bobo is a new variety of this species, which deserves special attention for its beauty and peculiarities of its content.

The height of the bush is about 70 cm. Abundant flowering begins in July and ends in September. The color of the petals changes during flowering from light yellow to pale pink.Inflorescences are large, dense, conical. The leaves are dark green, oval.

IMPORTANT: The variety is winter-hardy, but young bushes need to cover the roots with a mulching layer during frosts.

Bobo panicle hydrangea is great for small gardens, borders, flower beds. Ideal for growing in small flowerpots on terraces or balconies. It can be used both for single landings and for creating beautiful groups.

Care and landing

Caring for this variety of panicle hydrangea is easy. It is enough to follow the general rules of caring for these plants, and then from year to year it will be possible to admire the luxurious caps of white inflorescences.

Landing place

The best place to plant the Bobo variety will be an area with little partial shade, well protected from gusts of wind. In places constantly illuminated by the sun, the inflorescences become smaller, and the plant slows down its growth.

The soil

Hydrangea paniculata Bobo prefers acidic, fertile soils with good drainage. The color of the petals will be more intense when grown in more acidic soil.

Watering

This plant is very fond of moist soil and does not tolerate drought at all. In summer, watering should be done with rainwater, and in winter, melt water is perfect. It is necessary to ensure that the water for irrigation does not contain lime, this can lead to flower disease.

Fertilizer

At the beginning of summer, fertilizing is carried out with mineral fertilizers. Nitrogen and potassium dressings are well suited for these purposes. The plant should be fertilized to improve flowering and the subsequent laying of flower buds.

Reproduction methods

This plant reproduces easily in several vegetative ways:

1.Splitters

This breeding method is very popular with gardeners.

To do this, in early May, young branches from a growing bush are bent and pressed to the ground. On the lower part of the shoot, located at the very soil, an oblique incision is made and a match or a chip is inserted into it. This technique will speed up the formation of roots in this place. Further, the place of the incision is lightly sprinkled with peat and regularly and abundantly moistened. After the formation of its own roots, the layers are separated from the mother bush and are planted for growing.

2.Dividing the bush

This method is the simplest and most reliable.

It is necessary to carefully dig up the hydrangea and divide it into parts.

It is important to make sure that there are new growth buds in the cut. The roots are slightly shortened when transplanting

In the pits for planting, you need to add compost, peat, organic fertilizers. After planting, the bushes are watered abundantly. If the division of the bush occurs in the spring, then by the fall the new plants will take root perfectly.

3. By cuttings

For cuttings, branches cut in spring are well suited.

The presence of 4-5 buds on the stem is important. Cuttings are immersed in Kornevin solution for two days and then planted to the depth of two buds in loose, fertile soil

For young seedlings, shading and constant soil moisture are important. When new leaves appear, shading is removed.

Flower pruning

For this variety of hydrangeas, pruning is a prerequisite in order to form a correct and beautiful bush. Pruning is done between February and April. It is this time that is perfect for new shoots to gain strength and be ready for further flowering.

Cut off old, weak and thickening shoots. Leave a few strong shoots, both old and young. Regular, strong spring pruning promotes abundant and long-lasting flowering.

In autumn, you should cut off faded inflorescences. This is due to the fact that Bobo panicle hydrangea has rather fragile branches that can break during snowfalls.

Description of the plant

Appearance

Among the varieties of pseudo-erantemum, there are shrubs, dwarf shrubs, and perennial grasses. Depending on the type of plant, the height varies from 30 to 150 centimeters.The upright shoots of shrubs lengthen by about 10 centimeters annually, are often devoid of branching.

Glossy textured leaves can be elliptical, narrow-lanceolate, or obovate. The color of the foliage is diverse - all shades of green from the lightest tone to almost black are complemented by spots of purple or purple. The maximum length of a leaf is 15 centimeters.

White flowers of pseudo-erantemum in the form of spike-shaped inflorescences are located at the tops of the shoots or in the axils of the leaves. The corolla is tubular, often in the center with a spot of red and interspersed with pinkish or red shades on the petals. Outwardly, the flowers resemble stars and look like lilac or orchid flowers. At home, pseudoerantemum blooms very rarely, so florariums are more suitable for cultivating it.

The fruit of the flower is a seed capsule. When ripe, the capsule "shoots out" and the seeds spread over a large area. All plants of the Acanthus family have this feature.

The most popular flower as a houseplant. Shrub about 1 meter high with bare branched stems and large leaves on short thin petioles. Leaves with a pointed tip, oval or ovoid, are about 10 centimeters wide and reach 15 centimeters in length.

On the upper side, the color of the foliage is dark purple (sometimes dark green) with irregular yellowish, whitish, pink or red spots. On the reverse side, the leaves are green with a slight reddish tint. The brightness and "purpleness" of the leaves directly depends on the brightness of the lighting.

Pseudoerantemum blooms with white buds with purple spots. They gather in complex racemose inflorescences up to 15 centimeters long at the top of the plant. The calyx of the flower is reddish or yellow. This type of pseudo-erantemum has the varieties Tricolor (see photo) and Variegatny, which are distinguished by a richer variety of foliage shades.

Pseudoerantemum longiflorum or notched (Pseuderanthemum longifolium / sinuatum)

A small herbaceous plant no more than half a meter high. Narrow lanceolate leaves with beautiful grooves along the edge grow to a length of 15 centimeters with a width of no more than 2 centimeters. The upper part of the leaves is olive green, the opposite of reddish. It blooms in asymmetrical white buds of 5 petals, one of which is decorated with cute purple-red dots.

Pseudoeranthemum reticulum (Pseuderanthemum reticulatum)

Shrub with a height of 50 centimeters to a meter. Pointed leaves on short petioles are no more than 15 centimeters long. The green surface of the leaf is wavy and decorated with golden yellow stripes. It blooms with white flowers on short pedicels, the center of the bud is slightly shaded with red.

Pseudoerantemum kewense (Pseuderanthemum kewense)

A charming look with pointed egg-shaped leaves of a chocolate or purple hue. The reverse side of the foliage is light green in color. It is very difficult to achieve flowering of this plant.

Pseudoerantemum tuberous (Pseuderanthemum tuberculatum)

A low-growing shrub with thin branched stems spreading horizontally.

Glossy oval leaves (sometimes rounded) with waviness along the edge grow in opposite order and are 1 to 3 centimeters long.

Pseudoerantemum laxiflorum or shooting star (Pseuderanthemum laxiflorum)

Low shrub with pointed ovoid green leaves. Blooms with single purple buds.

Reproduction methods

Stefanandra grown in the garden is propagated in several ways: by seed, cuttings and layering.

Growing from seeds

The seeds of this shrub can be purchased at a flower shop. Sowing seeds is carried out directly in open ground, and they do it in May. After the seedlings appear, they may need thinning. And when they grow up a little and get stronger, they can be transplanted to a permanent place.

Please note that Stefanandra seed material is not stratified

Cuttings

This plant is also propagated by cuttings. To do this, you need:

• find annual or biennial shoots on the bush and cut them off;
• immerse the lower parts of the cuttings in a solution of a product that stimulates the growth of roots, pull them out after 6-7 hours;
• for rooting, plant the segments in pots filled with earth mixture, while they are buried only 30 mm;
• water the planted sections and cover them on top with a transparent cap, for example, a film;
• do not forget to systematically air the cuttings, and also make sure that the soil mixture in the container is constantly slightly damp.

Sections' own roots grow rather quickly. However, they can be transplanted to a permanent place in the garden only after 1 year.

Reproduction by layering

In order to get the stefanandra cuttings, a suitable one-year-old stem is selected for a start. In the area where the shoot will come into contact with the ground, it should be slightly incised. Bend the stem to the surface of the soil and lay it in a shallow, small ditch, which is made in advance. Fix the shoot in this position with a metal clip, after which it is covered with a layer of soil and watering is carried out. The top of the cut should not be covered with soil. If everything is done correctly, then after a while the stem will form its own roots. When this happens, the cuttings are cut from the parent bush and planted in a permanent place.

Highlander - decorative flower

The mountaineer has about 300 species. More often it is a herbaceous, one - or perennial plant, less often a liana or shrub. Widely spread across the globe, grows in forests, river banks, meadows and highlands.

Stems are spread or erect, occasionally curly. The leaves are alternate, simple. Small flowers are collected in racemose or paniculate inflorescences. The fruit is a nutlet with many seeds.

The mountaineer is interesting for its surprisingly diverse species and prevalence in a wide variety of natural conditions. He can meet you on the street in the village in the form of grass-ant, or he can create three-meter thickets of Sakhalin buckwheat. It grows modestly near swamps and lakes, and can proudly stretch out as a 15-meter liana, which quickly braids buildings, hedges, trees growing in the neighborhood.

About 20 species of this amazing plant are used in decoration. It is quite unpretentious, grows successfully in different zones, perfectly tolerating pruning and retaining its decorative effect throughout the season.

Stefanandra's care

Watering

Outdoor-grown Stefanandra needs regular watering. It is carried out 2 or 3 times every 7 days. However, during a prolonged drought on hot days, the plant should be watered 1 or even 2 times a day. Experts advise to water the bush immediately after the soil surface dries up.

Remember that excessive drought, like waterlogging, can negatively affect the condition of the shrub. If the bush is not watered in a timely manner, then it will begin to fade very quickly, and its shoots will go down. But do not overdo it with watering, since if liquid stagnates regularly in the root system, then rot may form on it.

Rainwater or well-settled water is best suited for irrigation. During prolonged drought, the shrub responds well to crown moistening from a spray bottle. However, a similar procedure should be carried out in the early morning or at sunset. Do not spray the bush during the day, as this can cause sunburn on its foliage.

Weeding and loosening

It is recommended to regularly loosen the soil surface around the bush. During this procedure, all weeds are also removed. Regular weeding is extremely important for a young bush that has not yet matured.

In order to reduce the number of watering and weeding, the surface of the trunk circle must be covered with a layer of mulch

Mulching is especially important for those bushes that grow in a well-lit area. Thanks to this, it will be possible to avoid overdrying the soil.

Pruning

Sanitary pruning is done in the spring. To do this, cut out all excess, disease-damaged, injured and dried shoots. At the same time, formative pruning is carried out. Be sure to cut out all branches that contribute to the thickening of the crown, otherwise the bush will look unkempt. Also, in an overly thickened bush, the sun's rays cannot get into its middle. Because of this, part of the foliage is observed to fall, which reduces the decorative effect of the plant.

Top dressing

In order for Stephanandra to bloom profusely and have a dense crown, in the springtime it must be fed with nitrogen-containing fertilizers. Also, during the growing season, it is fed with organic matter several times. To do this, you can use an infusion of chicken manure or grass. To make an infusion, you need to adhere to the following plan:

• take a container of a suitable size and put chicken droppings in it, which is filled with water in a ratio of 1:10;
• the mixture should stand for about a week and a half;
• mix the finished infusion well and pour it over the bush, and only a little liquid fertilizer is poured under one bush.

Also, humus can be used to feed this culture. Pour 1 bucket of humus under the bush. Then gently mix it with the topsoil in the trunk circle.

In autumn, to feed this plant, special fertilizers are used, intended for this time of year. These can be purchased at the flower shop.

Diseases and pests

Stefanandra is highly resistant to both pests and diseases. However, experienced gardeners recommend systematically carrying out preventive treatment of the shrub with a solution of a fungicidal preparation, which will help protect the bush from powdery mildew, gray rot and rust.

Wintering

The plant is distinguished by a relatively high frost resistance and is able to withstand a drop in air temperature to minus 25 degrees. However, if the frost is more severe, then this can cause the death of the bush.

In late autumn, tilt the shrub branches to the soil surface and cover them with dry branches, soil, foliage or spruce branches. This will help protect the plant from freezing. With the onset of spring, remove all shelters from the bush.

Stefanandra is the ideal plant for slopes

Isadora (violet): features of care

Violet is one of the most common indoor flowers. The plant with flowers of amazing shape and outlandish color is finding more and more fans. Violet flowers with five petals are collected in a brush. The leaves are fleshy, round and fluffy - covered with villi. The leaves are different in shape - pointed or rounded. The stem of the violet is shortened. The fruit is a box with small seeds.

Currently, there are several hundred varieties of violets. “Violet fashion” keeps up with the times, and every year breeders spoil florists with new species. The classics, of course, pleases with bright colors. But each new variety evokes a special thrill in the soul.

Violets Isadora relatively recently "honored" flower growers with their attention, but have already won the hearts of many of them. And for good reason

Large double and semi-double flowers, fringed along the edge with bright lilac strokes and crimson specks.

The variety pleases with abundant flowering for a long time.

Despite the fact that Isadora is an unpretentious violet, caring for her has some peculiarities. By observing them, you can grow a healthy and beautiful flower.

Soil and capacity

Violet prefers a nutritious and loose soil, permeable to air and moisture. The violet does not tolerate excess moisture, and stagnant water can lead to plant disease. Given this fact, pour drainage into the pot - a layer of pebbles or expanded clay. The most suitable soil for a plant is a mixture:

• 5 parts - leafy ground;
• 1 part - sand;
• 3 parts - peat.

Additionally, charcoal and moss (sphagnum) can be added to the soil, light soil will contribute to the development of the plant, since Isadora is a violet responsive to good care.

The roots are located in the upper layer of the soil, so a low container with a diameter of 6-9 cm is suitable for a flower. In a smaller pot, the roots will be cramped, and the plant will not develop well.

And frequent transplants hinder the good development and growth of the flower.

Temperature and humidity

The optimum temperature for violets is 20-24 degrees. In such conditions, the plants bloom for a long time, large flowers stay on the peduncle for a long time. Violet is a resistant plant that can withstand temperatures as low as 5 degrees

It is important to remember that in summer you need to avoid temperatures over 30 degrees for longer than 5 days. And in winter - at low temperatures - it is necessary to reduce watering

Isadora is a violet, for which drying out of air is destructive. It must be systematically sprayed. But it should be remembered that high humidity also leads to the development of fungal diseases.

Violet Le Isadora. Description and features of watering

It is important to water the violet correctly and do not forget that excess moisture can destroy the plant. Therefore, the flower should be watered as the soil dries.

Use warm water, as the plant simply will not tolerate cold watering.

It is recommended to settle water from the tap for 2-3 days or pass it through a filter. The violet requires careful watering, for this you need to follow the rule: water should not get to the point of growth of the flower, that is, to the center of the plant.

Therefore, watering can be done in 3 ways:

• Through the pallet - pour into it exactly as much water as the soil will absorb. Drain off the excess 30 minutes after watering.
• Watering from above is the most common and convenient way, but with a violet, it requires accuracy. Pour water in a thin stream using a watering can or a container with a straw, without getting on the leaves of the plants.
• Wick irrigation - pass a piece of cloth through the drainage hole in the container: lower one end into a container with water, the other remains on the ground surface.

Diseases and pests

Isadora is a violet that practically does not get sick, if you observe the optimal humidity in the room. Transplanting or adding new soil can lead to late blight.

You can notice it by the brown spots on the leaves. It is difficult to get rid of this disease, so superphosphate must be periodically added to the soil. The violet is susceptible to damage by nematodes and thrips.

You can get rid of pests with nematicides.