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Maintenance and care, arrangement of aquariums

The optimal aquarium size for 3-5 fish starts from 200-300 liters. Taking into account the peculiarities of nutrition, it is necessary to use sandy soil as a substrate. An additional element of decoration will be heaps of stones, boulders, rocks, from which various shelters are formed (grottoes, gorges, caves, etc.).

Aquatic plants are not required, but if desired, it is permissible to place species that can grow in an alkaline environment, with a strong root system, in order to avoid accidental uprooting during the feeding of Aulonocara Aurik.

Providing and maintaining the hydrochemical composition of water with high pH and dGH values ​​is essential for long term maintenance. Maintenance of the aquarium is standard and consists of a weekly replacement of part of the water with fresh water and the removal of accumulated organic waste (food residues, excrement)

Both procedures are usually combined by cleaning the soil with a siphon and then adding fresh water.

Maintenance of the aquarium is standard and consists of a weekly replacement of part of the water with fresh water and the removal of accumulated organic waste (food residues, excrement). Both procedures are usually combined by siphoning the soil and then adding fresh water.

Seedling picking

Seedling picking is a very important and necessary stage for the successful cultivation of healthy and strong primroses. The root system of primroses is fibrous and, unlike plants with a rod system (lumbago, catchments, etc.), easily tolerates a transplant and even prefers to be disturbed sometimes, because this stimulates its development. For seedlings of primroses, a 2-3-time pick is desirable. In the process, the air exchange of the roots is renewed, the base of the stem is deepened, from which new roots begin to grow, which contributes to the best and fastest development of the plant in general. As a rule, primrose seedlings begin to dive at the stage of 2-3 true leaves:

Seedlings of Siebold primroses, ready for the first pick

But if the crops are too thickened, then the first pick can be carried out even at the stage of cotyledon leaves, otherwise there may be seedlings falling out. Here, for example, too thick crops of primrose auricle:

It is convenient to pick seedlings with cotyledon leaves with a toothpick. We cut off the tip of a toothpick so that it is more convenient to make planting holes in the ground with it.

Gently take the seedling with tweezers only by the cotyledon leaves and plant it in the hole using a sharpened toothpick.

We plant the auricula seedling, deepening it to the base of the cotyledon leaves:

The same seedlings of auricula in 2-3 weeks:

As you can see, even seedlings with only cotyledon leaves easily tolerated the pick. And yet, the first pick should be carried out at the stage of 2-3 true leaves. This is more convenient: the seedlings are already large and easier to handle. In the photo: seedlings of primrose auricula with two or three true leaves.

Seedlings of polyanthus primroses with two or three true leaves, ready for the first pick:

These photos clearly show that the seedlings of primroses are stretched out and bare at the base, young roots are in the air. It is during this period that plants need the first pick, after which their growth and development will improve.

The photo shows the correct planting-picking of a polyanthus primrose seedling: young roots and a previously bare stem are in fresh soil, which is richer in organic matter and fertilizers in composition than the seed mixture for seeds, but it still contains a mixture of perlite and vermiculite, albeit in smaller ratio. This is necessary for the gradual adaptation of a young plant to new growing conditions. The seedling will quickly get used to a new place and will develop quickly and actively grow roots and leaves.At first, it is also advisable to place the sown seedlings in a mini-greenhouse. However, if the air humidity in the room is sufficient, then the seedlings will take root even without greenhouse conditions.

I will add that properly cut seedlings do not need any fertilizers and stimulant treatments. They have enough of those nutrients that are contained in the new soil mixture, in which they will grow until the next pick. The next soil mixture for picking should be even richer in composition so that young primroses can actively develop.

Grown seedlings of primroses that need the next second pick

And in this photo - the seedlings of primroses, which were dived twice, grew up and are already ready for the third dive into separate pots or for planting in open ground.

Seedlings of primroses are planted in open ground when the threat of recurrent frosts has passed. Although primroses belong to winter-hardy plants, young seedlings grown at home can suffer greatly from the cold and slow down their development in the open field. Therefore, provide shelter for young primroses in case of threat of cold nights below 0 ° C.

In the future, the seedlings will quickly get used to the garden, over the summer they will grow up, by the fall they will fully adapt, and they will no longer be afraid of the first frosts. Under a layer of snow, young primroses hibernate well without any shelter. Only for the purpose of retaining snow, the best and most reliable shelter from any frost, several branches of spruce branches can be put on top of the plants. I will only add that it is better not to cover auricle primroses with anything, since they are distinguished by increased winter hardiness. In the photo - seedlings of primroses auricula, planted in spring, and the same primroses a year later:

Seedlings of primrose auricula in early spring, immediately after the snow melts and at the end of May:

Seedlings of polyanthus primroses of February / March sowing often bloom in early autumn of the same season and leave before winter with strong young plants.

These same polyanthus primroses in the spring of the next season:

I hope that my recommendations for growing primroses from seeds will be useful not only for beginners, but also for those who already have their own experience. If you have any questions, write comments to the article, I will definitely answer.

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The subtleties of growing at home

Indoor spindle tree is an ideal component for bonsai formation. Caring for a plant, in principle, does not differ from what is required for a street bush. The euonymus should be irrigated, fed, sprayed in hot weather, and also taken out to the balcony on warm days. By the way, spraying is mandatory even when the batteries are turned on. In addition, you will have to attend to a regular transplant. The first 3 years of life, a pot change is carried out annually, and then one action in 3 years will be enough.

In most situations, the plant will also need artificial lighting in addition, especially if the window openings of the room face north. Pinching is carried out as needed to form a beautiful appearance of the euonymus

It is also important to regularly remove any dried, outdated, or otherwise damaged scions. If the home spindle tree begins to shed foliage, then you will have to carry out the necessary processing of the shrub

The pot can be either plastic or ceramic. The main thing is that the container volumes make it possible to comfortably place the root system inside. If you move the euonymus from too small to too large a pot, then you can provoke acidification of the soil and, accordingly, the death of the plant. It is better to choose loose and nutritious soil for home use. The easiest way is to purchase a ready-made substrate intended for growing decorative deciduous shrubs in an apartment.

How to plant in open ground?

Planting euonymus in the garden in open ground is carried out only in a partially shady place

It is important to remember that an excess of sunlight will lead to a deterioration in the decorativeness of deciduous shrub plates and their falling asleep.There are no special requirements for the soil in the culture.

The best solution would be a combination of a part of leafy soil, the same amount of peat, a couple of parts of turf or garden soil, and river sand. If the soil in the selected area is acidic, then lime should be added to it immediately.

Disembarkation takes place from May to September on a sunless or rainy day. The hole is formed in such a way that its volume is a couple of times larger than the size of the root system. At the bottom, a drainage layer is formed, created from pieces of brick, gravel and expanded clay. Next, compost or humus is laid out, and then the soil. The seedling is placed vertically in the pit, its roots are covered with soil mixture. Finally, the surface is compacted and properly irrigated.

Varieties

Selection varieties of Japanese euonymus are distinguished by high decorative properties.

Extaz

The center of the narrow leaves is light yellow, the edging is wide green. Height - 0.15 m.

Aureus (Aureus)

The center of the elongated leaves is poisonous yellow, the border is narrow green. Height - 1.5 m.

Ovatus Aureus

In the center of the oval miniature leaves there is an emerald longitudinal stripe, the edging is wide bright yellow. Dwarf variety.

Perolino (Pierolino)

The leaf blades are mostly dark green, with randomly scattered white strokes and veins. About 10% of the biomass can be completely whitened leaves - this is not a deviation, but a feature of the variety. Height - 1.5 m.

Bravo

Unlike other varieties, this one does not have a clear color. Its leaf plates are spots of different colors, randomly scattered on a dark green background - yellow, beige, white, silver.

Aureomarginatus (Aureomarginate)

The center of the almond-shaped leaves is green, the edging is narrow (initially) golden. The peculiarity of the variety is that during the season the bright yellow edging of the leaf gradually grows and in the fall it covers almost the entire plate. Height - 0.4 m.

Latifolius Albomarginatus

The center of the leaf plates is green, the edging is wide white.

Albomarginatus

Similar to Latifolius, but narrow edging.

Luna

The center is olive, then it gradually turns into yellow, the border is wide green.

Mediopictus (Mediopictus)

The center is golden, the border is green.

Microphyllus (Microfillus)

The center of the miniature leaves is green, the border is golden.

Microphyllus Aureovariegatus (Microfillus Aureovariegatus)

Similar to Microphyllus, but the golden edging is much wider, so that the green center of the small leaves is almost invisible. Height - up to 0.8 m.

Varieties

This genus of barberry has a large number of varieties that differ in height and color of the leaves. The most general classification of plants looks like this:

• Green (leaves are green)
• Golden (leaves have a golden border)
• Orange (foliage color changes with the season from yellow to colorful orange)
• Red (foliage colored purple or red)

There are several varieties in each of these groups, the most interesting of them are presented below.

Barberry Thunberg Atropurpurea

• Average height is 2 meters.
• The diameter of the crown is about 2 meters, therefore, if necessary, the bush can be given an arbitrary shape.
• Small oblong foliage purplish-red, turning yellow in autumn.
• Red fruits.

The plant is unpretentious, grows well both in the shade and in sun-drenched areas.

Barberry Thunberg Maria and barberry Thunberg Erecta

The variety has also found wide popularity and is distinguished by the following features:

• Average height 1.2 meters.
• The crown is vertical, has the shape of a column.
• Spiny thorns on the shoots.
• The leaves are large, bright yellow in color, have a red border. By autumn they acquire a beautiful tangerine or orange color.

Barberry Thunberg Maria is a light-loving plant, so it should not be planted in the shade.

Barberry Thunberg Erecta

• The average plant height is about one meter, sometimes it grows to one and a half.
• The crown is vertical, pyramidal in shape.
• As it grows, the bush loses its verticality, expanding in width.
• Rounded leaves are small, green, in autumn their color turns red.
• There are sharp thorns on young shoots.
• It blooms every year, the flowers are light yellow or reddish.
• The fruits are glossy, bright red.

Barberry Erekta is an ideal variety for beginners, as it is unpretentious in care and frost-hardy.

Barberry Thunberg Coronita and barberry Orange Rocket

The average height of the bush is 1.5 meters, the crown is vertical, no more than a meter in diameter, but with age it becomes more spreading. The leaves are pointed, resemble a lancet in their shape, young leaves are red-purple, adults are almost purple. Flowering time - spring, yellow flowers.

Barberry Orange Rocket

This representative of the species is very picturesque, distinguished by bright colors:

• Young leaves and shoots are deep orange.
• Ripe foliage gets a beetroot hue.

Barberry Thunberg Rose Glow, barberry Golden Ring

The plant is one of the real decorations of any personal plot, due to its following features:

• The spherical crown is almost regular in shape.
• Height is about 1.5 meters.
• Shoots are different in color: young ones are reddish-pink, mature ones become darker, approaching in shade to purple.
• The leaves also differ in color: on young stems they are purple, variegated, covered with red and white spots, on old branches they become monotonous and dark.
• Carmine yellow flowers appear in May.
• The fruits are bright, they persist even in winter, placing bright accents in the garden against the background of snowdrifts.

Barberry Golden Ring

• Average height is about 3 meters.
• The leaves are very picturesque - purple in color with a yellow border.

Barberry Thunberg Red Pillar and barberry Admiration

This is an amazingly beautiful plant with burgundy leaves, which acquire a scarlet color in winter. The average height of the shrub is 1.5 meters, the crown is vertical. The leaves are oblong. The variety begins to bloom in the last month of spring, the buds are yellow, but the flowers themselves are pink.

Barberry Admiration is a dwarf plant that appeared relatively recently, but has already gained wide popularity for its miniature size. Its height is no more than half a meter. Rounded neat crown a meter in diameter.

It has red-orange small leaves, the edges of which are edged with lemon. Blossoms in May, flowers are small, colored yellow, collected in a brush. Fruits are reddish and appear in autumn. Due to its size, this plant can be successfully used in rockeries, alpine slides and for borders.

Barberry Harlequin

• Height 1.5 meters.
• The diameter of the crown of an adult bush is 2 meters.
• The bark of young shoots is reddish or yellowish, the leaves are claret-pink, small.
• It blooms in May with small yellow flowers with a mild aroma.

By the first days of autumn, glossy fruits appear on the bush, which do not die even in winter. This plant tolerates frosts firmly, but it is better to cover young bushes for the winter.

Important! Regardless of the variety chosen, you should pick up healthy seedlings, plant them in fertile soil with good drainage. The best time to plant Thunberg barberry is spring

Barberry, thanks to the bright color of the leaves, is an amazingly beautiful ornamental plant that will become a real decoration of any garden.

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Enkianthus care

According to the requirements for soils, the campanulate enkianthus is close to other oriental beauties - rhododendrons. It grows only on acidic or at least slightly acidic soils, while the soil at the planting site should also be fertile, moist and moisture-permeable. But the encianthus is less demanding for lighting. That is, he can "settle" in the bright sun, and in the cool partial shade.

Enkianthus are demanding on soil moisture, so they should be watered irregularly, and if necessary.At the same time, it is necessary to control the moisture content of the soil and prevent it from completely drying out or excessive moisture. In particular, the soil should always remain slightly damp. Enkianthus growing in the bright sun must be additionally sprayed and watered regularly. Enkianthus is fed in the spring by applying a special fertilizer for rhododendrons together with compost directly into the soil. Due to the superficial root system, loosening of the soil cannot be carried out.

Other rules for care

Enkianthus by nature have a loose, light, non-massive crown and it is absolutely impossible to cut them off. Those shrubs that have undergone formative pruning at least once lose the decorative effect of flowering. In particular, it becomes scarce and short-lived. Shelter for the winter should be made complete. That is, it is necessary to mulch the soil, bend the shoots, cover it with spruce branches and a dry leaf, and on top with non-woven material and snow.

Enkianthus seedlings are planted in the spring, digging a shallow planting hole according to the size of the roots. In order to avoid stagnation of water, additional drainage is laid, and an equal share of sand must be added to the garden soil. To increase the acidity, it is advisable to add coniferous compost to the soil. After planting, the soil should be mulched not with peat or dry sawdust, but only with crushed bark. Mulching is renewed several times per season, necessarily in spring and summer. In autumn, a layer of compost is added to the usual mulching. Under no circumstances should a lawn or ground cover be planted under the encianthus, the trunk circle should always remain unfilled and mulched.

Enkianthus is propagated only by half-woody cuttings, while they can be rooted in late summer or early autumn.

In landscape design, enkianthus is used mainly as a spectacular autumn plant. It comes to the fore only at the end of the gardening season. But its amazing bloom will be a decoration of any garden. In fact, thanks to its unique decorative qualities, the encianthus retains its beauty throughout the season.

It can be planted in open ground and covered for the winter. It can also be grown as a tub crop, which is a houseplant from late autumn to April. Enkianthus is planted both as a tapeworm and in hedges. But they grow in groups quite rarely: it is impossible to appreciate the elegance and unique "lightness" of the amazing Japanese shrub. It goes well only with other "Japanese" plants - bamboo, rhododendrons, scumpia.

Caring for Japanese ophiopogon at home

Illumination

There are no special lighting requirements. This plant is able to calmly tolerate both bright sunlight and grow in the shade. Ophiopogon can be placed both near the southern window opening and next to the northern one. He also feels great in the back of the room.

In winter, it is not necessary to supplement it, since there is enough light for it even on these short days.

Temperature regime

In the warm season, this flower can grow at absolutely any (except sub-zero) temperature. After the threat of frost at night has passed, it can be transferred to the street (to the balcony or to the garden).

In winter, the plant has a dormant period and at this time it needs coolness. So, it must be rearranged to a cool place (from 2 to 10 degrees). It is recommended to store it in a pot at this time and put it right in it on a terrace or loggia that does not freeze.

How to water

You need to water systematically and fairly abundantly. It is necessary to ensure that the substrate in the pot is slightly moistened at all times, but not wet. Overdrying the earthen coma should not be allowed in any case, since the plant will react to this in the most negative way.

If in winter the Japanese ophiopogon is in the cold, then it is watered less often, or rather, after the topsoil has dried (to a depth of 1 or 2 centimeters).In the event that during this period the plant is at room temperature, it must be watered in the same way as in the summer.

Watering should be done with extremely soft and well-separated water at room temperature.

Humidity

It needs high air humidity, so it is recommended to spray this plant very often (at least 1 time per day). Also, to increase the humidity, you can pour expanded clay or pebbles into the pallet and pour in a little water, and then put a flower pot on it. You can also place a vessel with water in the immediate vicinity of the flower.

During cold wintering, it is not required to somehow additionally moisturize the ophiopogon, since at this time the moisture contained in the cool air is sufficient for it.

Earth mixture

Suitable soil should be loose and nutrient-dense. To prepare a suitable soil mixture, it is necessary to combine sod, leaf and peat soil, as well as coarse sand in a ratio of 1: 2: 1: 1. It is recommended to add a small amount of bone meal to this mixture as well.

Do not forget to make a good drainage layer using expanded clay or small pebbles. It will help to avoid waterlogging of the soil.

This plant is also grown hydroponically.

Fertilizer

It is necessary to feed the plant throughout the year 2 times a month. In the spring, as well as in the first half of the summer period, fertilizers with a high nitrogen content should be used. In the autumn-winter period, instead of nitrogen fertilizers, it is necessary to use those that contain a lot of potassium. It was also noted that in the autumn-winter, as well as early spring, the plant needs phosphorus.

Reproduction methods

Often this flower is propagated by dividing the rhizome. To do this, during transplantation, it is carefully cut into pieces. At the same time, each section should have a good root lobe and several shoots. Places of cuts must be processed with crushed charcoal.

Less commonly propagated by seeds.

Pests and diseases

Resistant to diseases and pests. However, with improper care, various problems can arise:

• specks may appear on the foliage;
• due to waterlogging, rot is formed on the root system;
• if the dormant period is violated or it does not exist at all, then flowering will not occur.

Beneficial features

This plant has phytoncidal properties, and it is also capable of inhibiting pathogenic microbes that are in the air next to it.

Attention! Japanese ophiopogon is poisonous

Description

The fish inherited its main morphological features (size, shape of fins) from its predecessor. Adult males reach a length of 17 cm or more, females look somewhat smaller and not so brightly colored. However, depending on the housing conditions and the quality of the feed, the maximum sizes may vary. In small aquariums, they often grow up to only 13-15 cm.

A characteristic feature of this variety is the presence of red flowers in the coloration of males instead of yellow and orange in males of Aulonokara Freiberg. The body pattern is identical and includes vertical dark stripes.

Brief information:

• The volume of the aquarium is from 200 liters.
• Temperature - 25-29 ° C
• PH value - 7.6-9.0
• Water hardness - medium to high hardness (10-25 dGH)
• Substrate type - sandy
• Lighting - moderate
• Brackish water - no
• Water movement is weak
• The size of the fish is up to 17 cm.
• Food - any drowning variety of food
• Temperament - conditionally peaceful
• Keeping in a harem with one male and several females

Collibia yellow-lamellar (hymnopus yellow-lamellar, Gymnopusocior) what mushrooms look like, where and

Gymnopus yellow-lamellar (colibia yellow-lamellar): photo and description

Colibia yellow-lamellar is an edible variety of the mushroom kingdom. However, most often mushroom pickers ignore this species, meaning by it a poisonous variety. During mushroom hunting, in order not to accidentally collect false doubles, you should study the specific features of the variety and view the photo.

How does yellow-lamellar colibia look

In order not to collect toxic specimens and thanks to this to protect yourself and your own relatives, it is important to know how the yellow-plated Gymnopus looks. Knowing the varietal characteristics, place and time of growth, you can return home with a basket full of delicious mushroom harvest.

Description of the hat

The hat of this variety is small, up to 60 mm in diameter. In young specimens, it contains a convex shape, and with age it becomes flat-spread with wavy edges. The matte skin is covered with a dark red or burgundy paint with a thin pale stripe along the edge.

The surface is smooth, after the rain has passed, it becomes covered with mucus. The hat quickly absorbs moisture, therefore, in the rain, it grows and takes on a dark color.

Underneath are innumerable adherent or loose white plates, which acquire a cream or dark yellow color with age.

Leg description

The leg of the yellow-lamellar Hypnopus is small, can reach a height of 8 cm, and a thickness of 5 mm. The shape is curved, cylindrical, sometimes it becomes wider towards the bottom. The surface is smooth, light brown or pale yellow.

Eat a mushroom or not

Collibia yellow-lamellar is an edible species. Regardless of the lack of aroma and pronounced aftertaste, this species in fried, stewed and canned form does not differ in any way in taste from its exquisite counterparts.

Where and how it grows

Collibia yellow-lamellar grows singly and in small groups in deciduous and coniferous forests, in shaded areas with fallen leaves, needles and wood dust. Fruiting comes from May to October.

Doubles and their differences

This forest dweller has edible and conditionally edible counterparts.

Colibia water-loving is not a dangerous mushroom, which can be determined by the following properties:

• light color;
• shape in the form of a cylinder of the leg;
• the lower part is surrounded by dark yellow and pink mushroom threads.

The oak-loving hymnopus is a similar species that stands out from its own twin in a lighter color. The pulp is dense, without a pronounced forest aroma, however, fried, stewed and canned, the mushroom reveals an unforgettable taste.

Collibia alpine is an edible mushroom, very similar to its own twin, in color and structure of the leg. You can recognize them only through a microscope, since in this species the spores are colorless and very large.

Collibia is wood-loving - in the conditionally edible species, the color of the cap is lighter, and there is no pale strip along the edge. Since the wood-loving hypnopus belongs to the 3rd group of edibility, before cooking, the crop should be carefully washed, soaked for a couple of hours and boiled.

Conclusion

Colibia yellow-lamellar is an edible mushroom that can be found in deciduous and coniferous forests. This species does not have false twins, so it is impossible to miscalculate when collecting. Regardless of the lack of aroma, and a distinctive mushroom flavor, the harvested crop is suitable for frying, stewing and preparing cans for the winter.