Cylindrical vole (cylindrical agrocybe): where it grows and what it looks like

Diseases and pests

Japanese spindle tree often suffers from diseases and insect attacks, and is also deformed with improper care. For example, insufficient sunlight will cause the shoots to stretch too much. On the contrary, insufficient illumination contributes to the disappearance of pigment from the leaf blades and, accordingly, deterioration of their appearance. Curling the edges of the leaves may indicate that the shrub is in the sun. The yellowing of the leaves and their gradual falling off indicates excessive irrigation.

Without taking immediate measures, euonymus can even die. The presence of constant stagnation together with excessive irrigation leads to the fact that the culture stops developing. If we talk about the effects of insects, then most often the pseudolaura suffers from spider mites, scale insects, mealybugs and aphids. As a rule, suitable insecticides or a solution of colloidal sulfur cope with them quite effectively. Of the diseases, as a rule, rust and powdery mildew are found.

Description

Hat

At the beginning of growth, it has a conical or bell-shaped shape. The color of the young mushroom is chestnut, sometimes with a slight brown tint. Young mushroom caps are moist and sticky to the touch. In a mature mushroom, the cap straightens, its edge becomes wavy, lobed, the surface dries and darkens to brown.

Leg

About 6 centimeters long and up to 1 cm in diameter. Has a distinctly fibrous structure, solid, cylindrical or fusiform. In the upper third of the leg there is a distinct ring, thin, rather wide, brown or light brown in color. Above it, the leg has a granular structure, below the surface becomes longitudinally striped. The coloration of the leg is grayish brown.

Pulp

Gray with a brown tint. Possesses pleasant, fruity notes, aroma and neutral taste. At the site of a break or cut, the color does not change.

Reproduction and cultivation of tuevik

Previously, tuevik was grown only in the south of Russia, but recently it has become a frequent guest in the gardens of the middle zone. It is believed that without shelter, he is able to endure short-term frosts down to -30 °. However, now tuevik is grown by some amateurs near Arkhangelsk and in Karelia, where, without visible consequences, it has already endured many severe winters, and in Moscow and St. Petersburg it can be found very often.

When growing tuevik, its features should be taken into account. For example, he is hygrophilous. This applies not only to the soil, but also to the air, the optimum humidity of which is 65-75%. The soil should be moisture-rich and high-humus, but waterlogging is unacceptable. The plant should not be planted on sandy soils.

When preparing the seat, they dig a hole with a diameter and depth of 0.5 m. soil. After planting, the plant is regularly watered so that the substrate retains high humidity.

Tuevik grows much better with proper care. In dry years, without watering, it can freeze in growth, therefore, during such periods, it should be watered periodically with irrigation of the crown, it is better more often, but not abundantly, than vice versa. The soil in the near-trunk circle must be weeded and loosened.

A very useful technique is mulching with peat, loose humus or compost. Leaf humus of non-coniferous species is also suitable for this. Mulching can be done twice a season. One - at the end of September, the second - at the beginning of summer. Autumn mulching along the way helps overwintering, warming the root zone

After the snow melts, the layer of mulch is carefully embedded in the surface layer of the soil.

The second mulching should be rationally timed to the beginning of the active growth of new needles (May), it will help the plants to activate their nutrition and will not allow the soil crust to appear. Once or twice a year, it is good to carry out mineral fertilizing with special complex fertilizers.

Tuevik, like thuja, tolerates haircut and shaping well. In young plants, this may be in the nature of only a slight interference with growth. Pinch the ends of branches developing in an undesirable direction. This is done to create a more compact and dense crown.

Plants should not be sheltered for the winter, unless young, planted in late autumn.

Cuttings are the main breeding method in our conditions. Cuttings from young mother plants, planted in early spring, take root almost one hundred percent. Most by the fall have a root system sufficient for independent development. However, transplanting to open ground should be postponed until spring.

Seed propagation is used much less frequently, since seed-forming plants are still rare in our country. The seeds are harvested in October and sown immediately. The sowing depth is 1-1.5 cm. They should be cut open at the age of two, when they reach a height of 5-8 cm. The best time for this is early spring. At first, the plants should be shaded, and watering should be frequent.

Spreading or wide tiered specimens of tuevik can be propagated by horizontal layers. For this, the branches creeping along the ground are buried. Within 1-2 years, you will receive seedlings that repeat the original shape of the crown.

Plants with a wide-pyramidal crown are obtained only by rooting cuttings taken from a pyramidal tuyevik.

For everyone who first saw a tuyevik, he arouses interest and a desire to grow it in his garden. The plant is truly remarkable, worthy of a presence in every front garden. The slow growth of the tuevik here turns into a great advantage, the plant can become a long-term reference point around which you can build a composition.

During its growth, the bush can repeatedly change the exposure, it tolerates transplantation with a lump of earth well, it is only important to choose the right time. So, at different ages, he can visit both the front and middle, and then the background of the site.

Edible mushrooms, berries, herbs

Agrotsibe mushroom (poplar honey)

Since ancient times, Agrocybe honey mushrooms have been valued along with porcini mushrooms and truffles because of their unusual taste, pleasant in all respects. Has a nutty flavor and crunchy texture. Versatile for use in cooking. After harvesting, Agrocybe mushrooms are kept fresh for no more than 20 hours, and frozen in the refrigerator for no more than 6 days (including immediately the day of collection). It is because of the short shelf life that you are unlikely to find these mushrooms in free sale, and in elite restaurants, you may be served dishes from these mushrooms only for a lot of money. So why not grow these mushrooms at home using flower pots on your balcony. Beautiful, practical, simple and exotic.

To grow mushrooms on a balcony, loggia or directly at home, we need

• prepared poplar or maple logs (from a healthy tree, wet, without branches, with bark, 15 cm in diameter and up to 30 cm in height);
• Mushroom mycelium on sticks;
• Flower pots with soil, mulch, poplar sawdust (70 * 15 * 15);
• Polyethylene film;
• Sterile gloves;

So, we take a previously prepared poplar stump (log) and drill 2-3 holes with a diameter slightly larger than the diameter of the stick with mycelium. The number of holes is correspondingly equal to the number of mycelium sticks. We put on gloves and begin to stick the sticks into the holes made so that the ends of the sticks are recessed into the log. It is advisable to seal the holes with wax to avoid accidental infection. Next, we wrap it tightly in plastic wrap, make a couple of small holes for ventilation. We put in a dark and humid place and wait until the mycelium sprout, usually this process takes 3-4 months.The log is ready to use if white mycelium is visible in the holes and colo with the naked eye. Then we place the logs with the sprouted mycelium directly into the flower pots with the prepared soil. It is desirable to install vertically, deepening the logs with sprouted mycelium by 8-10 cm. And that's it! For a year you can take 2-3 harvests of honey agarics, and the mycelium itself will grow every year for 5-6 years.

To grow mushrooms honey agarics in a garden or vegetable garden you will need

• Mushroom mycelium (organic substance).
• Wood chips, sawdust of deciduous trees;
• Mulched tree bark or straw (for bedding);
• Corrugated cardboard;
• Water:
• Shovel;

First you need to choose a place in the garden where our mushrooms will grow. The ideal place is near trees, in partial shade, with loose fertilized soil. The ideal time is spring. To prevent rodents from spoiling the mycelium, do not use mycelium on a grain substrate. In the chosen place, we dig out soil 10-12 cm deep. The dimensions of the resulting hole should take into account the further growth of the mycelium by 2-2.5 times. We put corrugated cardboard at the bottom of the resulting hole. This will be the lowest layer of our mycelium. We spread a layer of 0.5-1 cm of sawdust on the corrugation. We begin to pour abundant water into the hole. When all the water is absorbed, spread the mycelium evenly on the substrate. Lay out a layer of mulch or wood chips. Water again. Next, we spread the mulched light layer of soil to the general level. Above the level, so that the soil does not dry out, lay it out with straw or mulched tree bark and water abundantly again. In the future, it is necessary to monitor the condition of the soil and as soon as the soil is dry at a depth of 3-4 cm, it is necessary to immediately moisten it. You will receive your first harvest very soon. It is recommended during fruiting to collect mature mushrooms every day so that the mycelium does not get sick. For the winter, it is advisable to additionally cover the mycelium, thereby protecting it from freezing. Mushrooms are very fond of snails and slugs. Do not use any chemicals to kill pests! Mushrooms quickly absorb poisons. Use artificial traps or collect pests by hand.

Summer mushrooms

Autumn mushrooms

Winter mushrooms

Fieldman (Agrocybe)

Agrocybe is a small but vibrant genus that belongs to the Bolbitiaceae family. The Russian name Agrocybe - Polevik - is rarely used; probably because there is no one to apply and there is no time. It cannot be said that ordinary users of the Russian language do not know the mushrooms of this family at all, but it has not yet reached an independent name. Perhaps the reason for this lies in the fact that the "collected" representatives of this genus are ideologically close to champignons (Agaricus), and the others are of little interest besides specialists. And experts are well aware that the genus Agrocybe includes soil saprophytes and xylotrophs, and the latter are abundantly cultivated in the respective countries.

Agrocybe is characterized by a medium size of the fruiting body, a private veil and, most importantly for determining the genus, the tobacco-brown color of the spore powder.

Early polevicAgrocybe praecox

Synonyms: Early flakes Agrocybe early - Russia Polowka wczesna - Poland Spring Agaric - England, UK Agrocybe precoce - France Voreilender Ackerling - Germany

The cap is 3-8 cm wide, in youth it is hemispherical with a distinct “cushion-like pattern”, with age it opens up to spread. The color is vaguely yellowish, light clay, sometimes fading in the sun to a dirty whitish color. In wet weather, faint signs of "zoning" can be found on the cap. The remains of the private bedspread often remain on the edges of the cap, which gives this mushroom a resemblance to representatives of the genus Psathyrella. The flesh of the cap is whitish, thin, with a pleasant mushroom smell. The plates are rather frequent, wide, adherent with a "tooth"; in youth, light, yellowish, with age, as the spores mature, darken to dirty brown. Spore powder, tobacco brown. The leg is the same color as the cap, darker in the lower part.The stem is hollow, but at the same time very stiff and fibrous. Height 5-8 cm, in the grass it can be higher; thickness up to 1 cm, although usually thinner. In the upper part, the remains of the ring, as a rule, are somewhat darker than the stem itself (they become even darker when the mushroom matures, being decorated with falling spores). The flesh is brownish, especially at the bottom.

Distribution: Occurs from early June to mid-July in gardens, parks, along the edges of forest roads, preferring rich soils; can settle on strongly rotted wood remains. In some seasons, it can bear fruit very abundantly, although it usually comes across less often.

Similar species: Given the timing of growth, it is rather difficult to confuse the early vole with any other fungus. Closely related and outwardly similar species (such as, for example, Agrocybe elatella) are much less common.

Edible: Normal edible mushroom, although some sources indicate bitterness.

In the collector's understanding, Agrocybe praecox is a kind of “unfinished champignon”. Growing conditions, discs darkening with age, strong dependence of size and weight on soil fertility - all this gives the right to treat this field as a champignon for the poor and hasty. Having met an old woman in the forest with a basket of selected agrocybians, I asked what she was collecting. “Why, chamignons, we eat them every year,” she replied. Inspired by this example, I also recruited early agrocytes and treated my friends. Champignons for ourselves and champignons, if you do not go into details, except for our brother, are of little interest to anyone.

Agrocybe erebiaAgrocybe erebia

The hat is 5-7 cm in diameter, at first bell-shaped, sticky, dark brown, brown-chestnut, with a fawn veil, then prostrate, flat, with a wavy-lobed edge, light brown or brown, smooth, shiny, with a raised wrinkled edge. Plates: frequent, adherent with a tooth, sometimes inversely forked, light, then leathery with a light edge. The spore powder is brown. Leg: 5-7 long and about 1 cm in diameter, slightly swollen or fusiform, longitudinally fibrous, with a ring, with a granular bloom above it, striped below. The ring is thin, bent or pendant, striped, gray-brownish. The pulp is thin, cotton-like, pale yellow, grayish-brownish, with a fruity odor. It is considered a conditionally edible mushroom.

Distribution: from the second half of June to autumn, in mixed and deciduous forests (with birch), at the edge of the forest, outside the forest, near roads, in parks, in grass and on bare soil, in groups, rarely.

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Caring for Japanese ophiopogon at home

Illumination

There are no special lighting requirements. This plant is able to calmly tolerate both bright sunlight and grow in the shade. Ophiopogon can be placed both near the southern window opening and next to the northern one. He also feels great in the back of the room.

In winter, it is not necessary to supplement it, since there is enough light for it even on these short days.

Temperature regime

In the warm season, this flower can grow at absolutely any (except sub-zero) temperature. After the threat of frost at night has passed, it can be transferred to the street (to the balcony or to the garden).

In winter, the plant has a dormant period and at this time it needs coolness. So, it must be rearranged to a cool place (from 2 to 10 degrees). It is recommended to store it in a pot at this time and put it right in it on a terrace or loggia that does not freeze.

How to water

You need to water systematically and fairly abundantly. It is necessary to ensure that the potting medium is slightly moistened at all times, but not wet. Overdrying the earthen coma should not be allowed in any case, since the plant will react to this in the most negative way.

If in winter the Japanese ophiopogon is in the cold, then it is watered less often, or rather, after the topsoil has dried (to a depth of 1 or 2 centimeters).In the event that during this period the plant is at room temperature, it must be watered in the same way as in the summer.

Watering should be done with extremely soft and well-separated water at room temperature.

Humidity

It needs high air humidity, so it is recommended to spray this plant very often (at least 1 time per day). Also, to increase the humidity, you can pour expanded clay or pebbles into the pallet and pour in a little water, and then put a flower pot on it. You can also place a vessel with water in the immediate vicinity of the flower.

During cold wintering, it is not required to somehow additionally moisturize the ophiopogon, since at this time the moisture contained in the cool air is sufficient for it.

Earth mixture

Suitable soil should be loose and nutrient-dense. To prepare a suitable soil mixture, it is necessary to combine sod, leaf and peat soil, as well as coarse sand in a ratio of 1: 2: 1: 1. It is recommended to add a small amount of bone meal to this mixture as well.

Do not forget to make a good drainage layer using expanded clay or small pebbles. It will help to avoid waterlogging of the soil.

This plant is also grown hydroponically.

Fertilizer

It is necessary to feed the plant throughout the year 2 times a month. In the spring, as well as in the first half of the summer period, fertilizers with a high nitrogen content should be used. In the autumn-winter period, instead of nitrogen fertilizers, it is necessary to use those that contain a lot of potassium. It was also noted that in the autumn-winter, as well as early spring, the plant needs phosphorus.

Reproduction methods

Often this flower is propagated by dividing the rhizome. To do this, during transplantation, it is carefully cut into pieces. At the same time, each section should have a good root lobe and several shoots. Places of cuts must be processed with crushed charcoal.

Less commonly propagated by seeds.

Pests and diseases

Resistant to diseases and pests. However, with improper care, various problems can arise:

• specks may appear on the foliage;
• due to waterlogging, rot is formed on the root system;
• if the dormant period is violated or it does not exist at all, then flowering will not occur.

Beneficial features

This plant has phytoncidal properties, and it is also capable of inhibiting pathogenic microbes that are in the air next to it.

Attention! Japanese ophiopogon is poisonous

Polevik hard (Agrocybe dura)

• Other names for the mushroom:
• Agrocybe solid
• Hard vole

Synonyms:

Rigid Polewick (Agrocybe dura)

Hat:
3-10 cm in diameter, noticeably changes with age - at first hemispherical, regular, compact, thick-fleshed, with a dense white private veil; as the mushroom matures, it opens and loses its shape, often (apparently, in dry weather) becoming covered with superficial cracks, from under which a white cotton-like pulp appears. The edges of the cap of adult mushrooms can look very sloppy due to the tattered remnants of the private bedspread. The color varies considerably, from white, almost snow-white (in youth) to dirty yellow, beige. The flesh of the cap is thick, white, with a faint odor, which is rated differently by different authors - from “pleasant mushroom” to “unpleasant”.

Plates:
Frequent, adherent, thick, sometimes very wide, in young mushrooms often with a characteristic "disheveledness", then just uneven. The beginning of life is carried out under the protection of a thick white blanket. Color - from light grayish or brownish in youth to dark brown in mature specimens. The color of the plates of hard scales goes through approximately the same evolutions as in champignons, but here grayish rather than reddish shades prevail in the range.

Spore powder:
Dark brown.

Leg:
Quite long and slender, 5-12 cm in height and 0.5-1 cm in thickness, cylindrical, solid, only occasionally evenly expanding in the lower part. The color is whitish-gray, dimmer than the cap.The surface of the leg can be covered with bursting and characteristic curling fibers, which gives the impression of pubescence. The remnants of the private bedspread quickly disappear, and in adult mushrooms may be completely invisible. The flesh of the leg is tough, fibrous, grayish.

Spreading:
It grows from mid-summer (according to other sources, from July) in meadows, gardens, parks, lawns, preferring humanized landscapes. According to the literature, Argocybe dura is a “silage saprophyte”, decomposing the remains of grass, which distinguishes it from the “cluster” of Agrocybe praecox - its other representatives feed on wood and sawdust.

Similar species:
Strictly speaking, according to some researchers, Agrocybe dura (which is, by the way, Agrocybe molesta) is not quite a separate species. (And in general, in mycology, the taxon "species" acquires some other meaning, not like in other biology.) And speaking humanly, a rigid agrocybe (or a tough field) is so similar to an early agrocybe (or an early field worker, like his devil in Russian), that they can only be distinguished through a microscope, and even then not always. Agrocybe dura is said to have larger spores. Actually, it was on the basis of the size of the spores that I attributed the mushrooms in the photo to this species.

But it is very easy to distinguish tough agrocybe from champignons. In old age, they do not look alike at all, and young mushrooms have a sinewy cylindrical stem, an earthy color of the plates, and the absence of a pleasant aniseed smell. It doesn't look like champignon at all.

Edibility:
Not clear; obvious, inherited from Agrocybe praecox. In the sense that you can eat, but you don't want to.

Remarks The hard agrocyba is of theoretical rather than any other interest. A fungus growing in anthropogenic landscapes does not create an aura of magic around itself, which is characteristic of mycorrhizal fungi. The absence of magic is forgivable for champignon or winter honey (as practice shows, you can eat absolutely not magical things), however, they do not become less boring from this. Agrocybe dura, however, has found a way out: there are not so many mushrooms in the world that would like to measure spores. It's interesting with the agrocyboy. This means that we can forgive the filthy lawns, and the nondescript adult specimens, and much more, which we do not even suspect behind Agrocybe dura, but it is definitely there.

Agrocybe stop-like: where it grows and what it looks like, edibility

Agrocybe stop-shaped is an inedible representative of the Strofariev family. Grows in open areas, clearings and meadows. Fruiting from May to October. Since the mushroom is not used in cooking, you need to know a detailed description, view photos and videos.

Where does the agrocybe grow

Agrocybe stop-like prefers to grow in meadows, pastures, in mountainous and hilly places. Fruiting during the entire warm period, singly or in small families. Since the species is widespread in Russian forests and is not used in cooking, you need to study external data, view photos and know similar twins.

What does an agrocybe look like?

A thin, fragile cap at the beginning of growth has a hemispherical shape. As it grows older, it straightens out, leaving a small bump in the center. The surface is smooth, wrinkled, light coffee or ocher in color. On a rainy day, a slimy layer appears on the cap.

The lower layer is formed by rare, wide plates not covered with a dense film. In young species, they are light yellow; as they mature, they become brown-brown. A thin, long leg, painted to match the cap, is covered with a whitish bloom. The pulp is thin, loose, has a mealy taste and smell.On the cut, the color does not change, the milky juice does not stand out.

Reproduction occurs by elongated spores, which are located in dark coffee powder.

Grows singly or in small families

Is it possible to eat a stop agrocybe

Agrocybe stop-like is an inedible, but not toxic forest dweller. Causes mild eating disorder when eaten. When the first signs appear, you need to provide first aid in a timely manner. Poisoning symptoms:

• nausea, vomiting;
• epigastric pain;
• diarrhea;
• cold sweat;
• lacrimation;
• headache.

To stop the absorption of toxins into the bloodstream, you first need to flush the stomach. For this, the victim is given a large amount of a light pink solution of potassium permanganate.

Inedible representatives are dangerous to children, the elderly and pregnant women. Due to the reduced immunity, the signs of intoxication appear faster and are much brighter.

Since the agrocybe stopoid has similar counterparts, you need to know their external description and view the photo. Doubles of this representative of the forest kingdom:

1. Early field vole is an edible specimen with a small, fragile cap, light lemon color. A thin, long leg is painted in darker tones and has remnants of a film blanket. The fragile pulp has a mushroom flavor and aroma. This forest dweller grows in large families, on rotten wood. Abundant fruiting occurs from June to August. After a long boiling, they are used to prepare fried, stewed and canned dishes.

Used in cooking fried and canned

Prefers to grow in full sun during the whole warm period

The hemispherical cap partially straightens when fully ripe

Conclusion

Agrocybe stop-shaped - inedible species, when eaten causes stomach upset. Grows in open areas in tall grass. In order not to harm yourself and your loved ones, you need to know a detailed description of the cap and legs, as well as the time and place of growth. Experienced mushroom pickers recommend, when an unknown specimen is found, not to pluck it, but to walk by.

Dish recipes

Any table looks festive if you diversify it with mushroom dishes, pickled, salted, fried or boiled. They are appetizing, tasty and delicious.

Mushroom julienne

Ingredients:

• cylindrical vole - 0.5 kg;
• sour cream - 0.2 kg;
• onions - 2 pcs.;
• garlic - 1-2 cloves;
• dill - 1 bunch;
• vegetable oil;
• salt and pepper to taste.

Julienne in a cocotte looks aesthetically pleasing and sophisticated

Preparatory stage:

1. Peel the vole and rinse with cold water, cut into small cubes.
2. Chop the onion into half rings. It will be stewed for a long time in a large amount of oil and will become stewed, soft, practically dissolved.
3. Chop the garlic finely or chop in a crusher.
4. Finely chop the dill.

Cooking progress:

1. Pour oil into a frying pan, put onion and simmer until golden brown for 20-25 minutes.
2. Simmer the mushrooms in another pan for about 40 minutes. They can be pre-boiled and fried.
3. Add onion, stir, salt, pepper, simmer for 2 minutes, add sour cream, leave for another 5 minutes, add chopped dill and garlic.
4. Put in cocotte makers, brush with a thin layer of sour cream, sprinkle with grated cheese, bake in the oven for about 10 minutes at 180 degrees.

Risotto with mushrooms

This is a traditional Italian dish and is very easy to prepare.

Ingredients:

• arborio rice - 0.3 kg;
• butter - 0.1 kg;
• onion - 1 pc.;
• dry white wine - 0.1 l;
• chicken broth - 1 l;
• cylindrical vole - 0.3 kg;
• Parmesan cheese - 0.1 kg;
• salt pepper.

Risotto is a traditional Italian dish

Cooking progress:

Cut the onion into small strips. Vole - larger so that they retain their shape when roasted. Grate the cheese.
Fry the onions until golden brown, add the mushrooms and simmer for about 20 minutes.
Put the rice, fry for 2-3 minutes, pour in the wine, simmer for 10 minutes.
Pour the chicken stock so that it slightly covers the rice. If it evaporates too quickly and the rice is not ready yet, pour the liquid

But it is important not to overdo it so that the cereal is not overcooked.
Add spices and cheese. Close the lid and let stand for a few minutes.

Genus: Peziza

Peziza is a genus of mushrooms of the Pezizaceae family.

Etymology

Peziza, Pecitsa. From πέζα (peza) f, 1) leg; 2) edge, end.

Typical view

Peziza vesiculosa Bull., Herb. Fr. 10: tab. 457, fig. 1 (1790)

Description

Apothecia are solitary, less often in groups, sessile, at first almost spherical, later open to cupped, saucer-shaped, sometimes almost prostrate, with a brown, light brown, brown, reddish or yellowish hymenial layer, from 1-3 to 5 cm (less often 10) in diameter, brown on the outside, glabrous, sometimes as if sprinkled with flour or granular, fleshy or slightly brittle.

The bags are cylindrical, rounded at the top, eight-spore, stained blue from iodine.

Spores are ellipsoidal, colorless, unicellular, smooth, less often warty, prickly, with or without one or two drops of oil.

Paraphysis filamentous, expanded at the apex, filled with colored contents.

They grow on soil, wood (hemp, fallen branches), on plaster, manure and animal excrement.

Historical reference

The genus Peziza was first described in 1719 by Y. Dillenius (cited from Kimbrough, 1970), and all mushrooms with fruit bodies in the form of a disc are assigned to it. Since that time, many species of the genus Peziza have been described. E. Fries (Fries, 1822) united 323 species of the genus Peziza to the Peziza department with 4 sections: Aleuria, Phialea, Lachnea, Helotium. Later, these sections were separated into separate genera. K. Fukel (Fuckel, 1870) described a new genus Plicaria Fuck, with spherical spores; some researchers attributed species of the genus Peziza to this genus (Rehm, 1896; Naumov, 1964).

In the world summary of P. Saccardo's mushrooms (Saccardo, 1889, 1892, 1895, 1902, 1906), the genus Peziza includes more than 150 species; in addition, the genera Acetabula, Discina, Galactinia are given, G. Rem (Rehm, 1896) instead of the genus Peziza gives Plicaria with 31 species. The species of the genus Peziza, of which there are more than 800 in the monograph, are represented by synonyms of various discomycetes.

In the "Identifier of mushrooms" by A. A. Yachevsky (1913) the genus Peziza has about 435 species, but among such a wide variety there is a difference in the consistency of the fruit bodies, their shape, and also in some representatives the hymenial layers are stained blue from iodine in others - no ... In this regard, A.A. Yachevsky genus Peziza divides into 10 subgenera: Humana, Galactinia, Plicaria, Macropodia, Geopyxis, Melachroia, Acetabula, Aleuria, Discina and Pyronema. Already at that time these subgenera were considered by some mycologists to be independent genera. Joseph Velenovsky (1934) also recognizes the genus Plicaria and, examining the discomycetes of Bohemia, gives 31 species of this genus; the species of the genus Peziza are indicated by synonyms. In the "Identifier of Lower Plants" (1954) NA Naumov indicates 8 species of the genus Plicaria, and in the "Flora of Mushrooms of the Leningrad Region" (Naumov, 1964) 9 species of this genus are given. F. Seaver (Seaver 1942) recognizes the genus Peziza and lists 20 species for North America.

Related materials:

Smitskaya M.F. - Operculative discomycetes (Flora of fungi of Ukraine) (1980)