Is it possible to grow cucumbers in one place for several years?

The debate about whether it is possible to grow this signature "snack" culture on the same beds for several years in a row does not subside, and it is unlikely, to tell the truth, will subside. And all because every disputant has something to present to his opponent.

And this regular progress report is no exception.

Garden embarrassment

Without undue modesty, I will say that my experience as a gardener is 44 years. And like any worker-farmer, I have my favorites among the inhabitants of the beds - these are cucumbers. I was born and grew up in a village, and there we grew them, as they say, in bulk, salted huge barrels. Cucumbers grew on richly manured long beds (the land was brought from the forest and for some reason was called spring).

And also, I remember, before the war, two Chinese families lived in our village. What kind of apple orchards they grew! In gardening, they were also great masters: in greenhouses they grew a huge amount of cabbage, tomatoes and, of course, cucumbers, but only they had all the varieties of these crops, special.

Most of all, I was amazed by their cucumbers. This is how I, as a child, back in the 40s, first got acquainted with a long-fruited variety, which is now considered to be something unprecedented and is called Chinese. I remember how my grandmother carried them home in armfuls, like firewood. And they were delicious.

All this I am telling you that the cultivation of cucumbers was a habit for me. But here's a mystery: when I, having become a city dweller, got married and, together with my husband, then decided to take up the dacha, I began to grow them on my own land (oh, how attracted to her in the city!), Nothing good came of it. Miracles, and only: all other vegetables grow, and these - in none. From year to year one and the same picture: they grow, bloom and ... begin to wither, because their whips rotting away, then the roots. The time for harvesting is approaching, but we have not yet tasted the fresh harvest.

And then one day old acquaintances came to our dacha. They saw how I grieve because of the withered whips, and they began to retrain me. Thanks to them, I learned how to treat plants, how to prepare a greenhouse and how to fill it. And at the heart of everything is the most common ash (cucumbers respect it very much). And here I will run a little ahead: my husband and I learned all these rules, thought it over, tried it out, got our hands on it, now we have excellent harvests. But the most important thing is that we have been growing cucumbers in the same place for 20 years in a row!

Neighbors of cucumbers in the greenhouse

And now I’ll tell you how all this happens in our country. The husband made a frame of a greenhouse from logs 3 m long, 1.2 m wide, 70 cm high.In the fall, I put mowed grass, cut lashes, all kinds of tops, flowers inside, pour a pack of complex fertilizer on top (after mixing its contents with sawdust), tamp it with my feet and cover the fertile soil on top with a layer of about 30 cm.

Over the winter, this filling settles; for leveling in the spring, I add humus and ash to the greenhouse, mixing them and sealing them up.

Then I dig grooves with a shovel along the walls (on the inside) and fill them first with quicklime, and then with fallen leaves harvested since autumn. I water it abundantly with hot water, quickly cover it with a layer of earth (10 cm), level it and cover it with polyethylene.

What happens: the lime is extinguished, the foliage begins to overheat, generate heat and warm up the ground in the greenhouse.

I water the gap between the grooves well with water, sow radishes there in two rows, cover the seeds with dry earth and also cover with a film. And it turns out that all the soil in the greenhouse is under my shelter.

I put arcs made of thick wire and pull a dense non-woven material over them with clothespins. Two days later I check the ground: if it's warmed up, then I remove the film and sow the seeds of cucumbers into the grooves (dry or sprouted - no difference) - I water them, lightly sprinkle them with dry soil and again cover them with a film, but I put it not directly on the beds, but on the laid planks so that it does not touch the sprouts, which will soon hatch. I completely remove it only when a couple of real leaves appear on the plants.

And now about the neighbor of cucumbers - radishes. As soon as it rises, I immediately soak the corn seeds, plant them in boxes and put them on the window. The radish is ripe, I pull it out, and in its place with the cucumbers I plant the grown corn in one row. If the seedlings of cucumbers are stretched, I pour humus under it.

When the lashes begin to grow, I remove the arches with the covering material and make a garter of cucumbers. I have hooks bent from thick wire. I stick them into the ground and attach pieces of twine to them, the opposite ends of which I tie to the ridge of the greenhouse (and that, in turn, is installed on stakes fixed at the ends of the frame). I tie the whips to the twine. If the nights are cool, then I throw covering material on the ridge.

Every 10 days, from July to mid-August, I sprinkle ash on the whips, sifting it through a colander. And I do root dressing every week - an infusion of nettle, celandine, burdock, manure, ash, leftovers of bread, old jam and yeast (this "brew" I then dilute 2 liters per bucket of water).

Once every three years, in the fall, I take absolutely all the soil out of my greenhouse to a depth of 1 m, fill the resulting pit with organic matter flavored with fertilizer (I wrote about this in detail above), tamp everything well, add the previously removed soil from above and plant rye in the greenhouse or mustard.

Before winter, I cut off the green manure, close it up, and everything remains so until spring. And in the spring - the same procedures that I have already described. This is how my cucumbers have been growing in one place for a couple of decades. I collect crops that are enough for two families, and I also supply my neighbors.

From ash, cucumbers do not get sick, there are no aphids on them. Corn picks up excess moisture and serves as a support for them. Lime lowers acidity and makes the earth healthy. And you don't need to move the greenhouse to another place - it's convenient!

Zinaida Fedorova, Zheleznogorsk, Krasnoyarsk Territory

So, I'll start my story about cucumbers with seeds. I’ll come back from the garden, have lunch (and you know what an appetite appears after giving!) And start selection: I choose which seeds to plant next year. Then

I grab my notebook, open the Cucumbers section and start rereading. In my notebook there are links to specific numbers of "My Beautiful Dacha". I pick up these numbers from my library and read everything about cucumbers.

Crop rotation and cucumbers

And that's what I noticed. When growing cucumbers, crop rotation plays an important role.

So in the "Method of Dr. Meatlider" it is also written about the special role of crop rotation. This, of course, is good, no doubt about it. But what if there is no such possibility? For example, my cucumber beds are thoroughly arranged. They are lined with bricks (on cement mortar), in the ends are pillars 1.5 m high. Metal pipes are attached to the pillars, to which cucumber lashes are tied with twine.

Reference by topic: Growing cucumbers without a greenhouse and chemicals in grass beds

I have been growing cucumbers in the same beds for 10 years in a row. And so that the soil does not get tired and diseases do not accumulate, so that harmful substances do not escape from the roots of cucumbers into the ground, I do this. Two years later, in the third year, I renew the land in the beds. In the first autumn, I dig out all the soil from the beds and scatter it over the beds with strawberries. In cucumber beds, I make grooves up to 50 cm deep and wide for the entire garden.

The pillars, the metal pipe to which I tie the cucumber lashes, the brick walls of the beds and the paths between the beds I pour copper sulfate from the watering can.

Planting cucumbers and replacing the land

Two days after processing, I begin to arrange the beds. At the bottom I put grass crushed with a hatchet (layer 20 cm). On it is a layer of chopped white mustard (I grow it on purpose), mixed with rotted manure (20 cm layer). And on top I pour rotted manure, sprinkled with wood ash (10 cm layer). In this state, the beds go into the winter. In the spring of next year, as soon as the snow melts, I water the beds with a pink solution of potassium permanganate, sprinkle a little with ashes and cover with foil.

As soon as the ground warms up, I plant cucumbers (depending on the weather - May 1-9). I do not remove the film until the threat of frost has passed. On hot days, I lift the film, ventilate it, make sure that the seedlings under it do not burn out. But I do it carefully: if you open the entire film at once, the cucumbers can wilt, they do not like such stresses. I start to open the film gradually during the day, cover it at night.

Then I open more and more: little by little I accustom the plants to a different environment (without shelter). Then I remove the film completely. When the lashes are already large and tied to a metal pipe, and suddenly cold nights happen, you have to cover the cucumbers no longer with a film, but with a covering material.

Over the summer, all the grass in the beds decays. The soil in cucumber beds is always soft and loose. In the fall, after I have removed the cucumber lashes, I again dig grooves in the beds, but already deep on the bayonet of a shovel.

I put the earth on the path.

I put chopped grass, marigolds, white mustard into the grooves. I put earth on the grass (which I put on the path) and add rotted manure. You can add a little superphosphate, wood ash and dig everything up. In the spring of next year, I cover the beds with foil, warm up the ground and plant cucumber seeds.

Reference by topic: How to make cucumber seedlings not stretch

Cucumbers grow well, harvests are pleasing. In the fall of the third year, I take out all the soil from the beds and sprinkle it on the beds with strawberries. In cucumber beds I dig grooves up to 50 cm deep, to the width of the beds, and everything is repeated.

A striking example of the "friendship" of plants - onions and carrots. Both are attacked by vegetable flies, but the carrot fly cannot stand the smell of onions, and the onion fly cannot stand the smell of carrots. The opposite example is cucumbers and tomatoes. They will not get along in one greenhouse: the first need heat and moisture, the second - dry air with constant ventilation. In addition, tomatoes emit a lot of ethylene.

As a result, the land on cucumber beds is renewed every two years. And the strawberries and the soil from under the cucumber beds really like it, for her it is a good mulch in the winter. Is it too time consuming? No. You know, when this method has been worked out for years, everything turns out very quickly.

Below are other entries on the topic "Cottage and garden - do it yourself"

Growing cucumbers in a round bed: Round bed for cucumbers The main thing in ... Planting cucumbers and preparing the beds - so that they warm (Pskov region): Early cucumbers in a garden with ... Growing cucumbers in a warm garden - advice for gardeners: How to grow cucumbers not warm ... So that the cucumbers are even and beautiful: How to grow even and beautiful ... Propagation of cucumbers by cuttings: Cucumbers by cuttings: personal experiencewhat ... Do-it-yourself greenhouse for early cucumbers: A simple greenhouse for harvesting ... Growing cucumbers in the Kursk region: Growing cucumbers - advice for gardeners ...

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Let's be friends!

The debate about whether it is possible to grow this signature "snack" culture on the same beds for several years in a row does not subside, and it is unlikely, to tell the truth, will subside. And all because every disputant has something to present to his opponent.

And this regular progress report is no exception.

Garden embarrassment

Without undue modesty, I will say that my experience as a gardener is 44 years. And like any worker-farmer, I have my favorites among the inhabitants of the beds - these are cucumbers. I was born and grew up in a village, and there we grew them, as they say, in bulk, salted huge barrels. Cucumbers grew on richly manured long beds (the land was brought from the forest and for some reason was called spring).

And also, I remember, before the war, two Chinese families lived in our village. What kind of apple orchards they grew! In gardening, they were also great masters: in greenhouses they grew a huge amount of cabbage, tomatoes and, of course, cucumbers, but only they had all the varieties of these crops, special.

Most of all, I was amazed by their cucumbers. This is how I, as a child, back in the 40s, first got acquainted with a long-fruited variety, which is now considered to be something unprecedented and is called Chinese. I remember how my grandmother carried them home in armfuls, like firewood. And they were delicious.

All this I am telling you that the cultivation of cucumbers was a habit for me. But here's a mystery: when I, having become a city dweller, got married and, together with my husband, then decided to take up the dacha, I began to grow them on my own land (oh, how attracted to her in the city!), Nothing good came of it. Miracles, and only: all other vegetables grow, and these - in none. From year to year one and the same picture: they grow, bloom and ... begin to wither, because their whips rotting away, then the roots. The time for harvesting is approaching, but we have not yet tasted the fresh harvest.

And then one day old acquaintances came to our dacha. They saw how I grieve because of the withered whips, and they began to retrain me. Thanks to them, I learned how to treat plants, how to prepare a greenhouse and how to fill it. And at the heart of everything is the most common ash (cucumbers respect it very much). And here I will run a little ahead: my husband and I learned all these rules, thought it over, tried it out, got our hands on it, now we have excellent harvests. But the most important thing is that we have been growing cucumbers in the same place for 20 years in a row!

See also: Growing cucumbers from A to Z: a ​​description of care, varieties, and many recipes

Neighbors of cucumbers in the greenhouse

And now I’ll tell you how all this happens in our country. My husband made a frame of a greenhouse 3 m long, 1.2 m wide, 70 cm high from logs. legs and throw on top of the fertile soil with a layer of about 30 cm.

Over the winter, this filling settles; for leveling in the spring, I add humus and ash to the greenhouse, mixing them and sealing them up.

Then I dig grooves with a shovel along the walls (on the inside) and fill them first with quicklime, and then with fallen leaves harvested since autumn. I water it abundantly with hot water, quickly cover it with a layer of earth (10 cm), level it and cover it with polyethylene.

What happens: the lime is extinguished, the foliage begins to overheat, generate heat and warm up the ground in the greenhouse.

I water the gap between the grooves well with water, sow radishes there in two rows, cover the seeds with dry earth and also cover with a film. And it turns out that all the soil in the greenhouse is under my shelter. I put arcs made of thick wire and pull a dense non-woven material over them with clothespins.Two days later I check the ground: if it's warmed up, then I remove the film and sow the seeds of cucumbers into the grooves (dry or sprouted - no difference) - I water them, lightly sprinkle them with dry soil and again cover them with a film, but I put it not directly on the beds, but on the laid planks so that it does not touch the sprouts, which will soon hatch. I completely remove it only when a couple of real leaves appear on the plants.

And now about the neighbor of cucumbers - radishes. As soon as it rises, I immediately soak the corn seeds, plant them in boxes and put them on the window. The radish is ripe, I pull it out, and in its place with the cucumbers I plant the grown corn in one row. If the seedlings of cucumbers are stretched, I pour humus under it.

When the lashes begin to grow, I remove the arches with the covering material and make a garter of cucumbers. I have hooks bent from thick wire. I stick them into the ground and attach pieces of twine to them, the opposite ends of which I tie to the ridge of the greenhouse (and that, in turn, is installed on stakes fixed at the ends of the frame). I tie the whips to the twine. If the nights are cool, then I throw covering material on the ridge.

Every 10 days, from July to mid-August, I sprinkle ash on the whips, sifting it through a colander. And I do root dressing every week - an infusion of nettle, celandine, burdock, manure, ash, leftovers of bread, old jam and yeast (this "brew" I then dilute 2 liters per bucket of water).

Once every three years, in the fall, I take absolutely all the soil out of my greenhouse to a depth of 1 m, fill the resulting pit with organic matter flavored with fertilizer (I wrote about this in detail above), tamp everything well, add the previously removed soil from above and plant rye in the greenhouse or mustard.

Before winter, I cut off the green manure, close it up, and everything remains so until spring. And in the spring - the same procedures that I have already described. This is how my cucumbers have been growing in one place for a couple of decades. I collect crops that are enough for two families, and I also supply my neighbors.

See also: White cucumbers (photo) varieties planting and care

From ash, cucumbers do not get sick, there are no aphids on them. Corn picks up excess moisture and serves as a support for them. Lime lowers acidity and makes the earth healthy. And you don't need to move the greenhouse to another place - it's convenient!

Cucumbers in one place - questions and answers

We have been growing cucumbers in one place for seven years now, because "we have installed supports on the garden bed, cover them with non-woven material on top. Transferring the structure every year is problematic. What can be done so as not to change the place for cucumbers any longer, because cucumbers are grown in greenhouses from year to year?

Vera I.

CROP ROTATION is an indisputable point of agricultural technology of any culture. Even our ancestors, who had not read textbooks and the newspaper "Garden-Garden", knew this. Remember the fairy tales about tops-roots and alternate cultures at least according to this folklore principle: if this season they grew roots in the garden (carrots, beets, onions, potatoes, daikon, etc.), then next season replace them with tops - cabbage, cucumbers , tomatoes.

Nowhere else you will find recommendations to sow cucumbers over cucumbers, even two seasons in a row. And seven years is a clear overkill. The removal of the same nutrients (cucumbers "consume" a lot of nitrogen, potassium), the accumulation of diseases, pests, for which pumpkin crops are a "habitat", lead to the fact that cucumbers lose productivity every season: nutritional deficiencies, pests, diseases quickly incapacitate them. If you add organic matter to the soil every year, fed cucumbers will resist infection by sucking insects longer, but not indefinitely. And don't compare your garden beds to greenhouses. They use very labor-intensive technologies for improving the soil, which summer residents cannot afford and cannot afford. It is much more difficult to change the soil in the garden than to put supports for cucumbers in another area.There is no need to transfer them, because it is convenient to grow not only cucumbers on the trellis.

Tall tomatoes feel great "in a tied state". Many summer residents have long been convinced that growing tomatoes this way is both more convenient and profitable. Without contact with the soil, the plants are less likely to get sick, the fruits do not rot, very little are affected by the caterpillars of the scoop, slugs. And, if necessary, it is easier to process the vertical wall of stems and leaves from pests, diseases, and, what is very important, more effective. What if you don't want to give up your favorite determinant variety? Not very tall tomatoes are also not forbidden to grow on a trellis. Their shoots will not grow up to two meters, but they may well "reach" up to one and a half.

Cucumbers are considered good predecessors of tomatoes, and tomatoes are good precursors to cucumbers. By alternating them, it is already possible to reduce the harmful effects of permanent cultivation of one crop in the garden. Legumes such as green beans can be used as a catch crop. Peas also bear fruit better, feeling the support.

And the fact that its stems will not climb to a two-meter height is still secondary. It is important that the bed is not empty, the stationary trellis is involved. You will get a harvest by improving and enriching the soil.

Siderata will help to BREAK the gap between crops of one crop. Sown rye will loosen the lower layers of the soil, pull nutrients into the root layer of the vegetable, and improve the structure of the soil. Legumes will improve the soil and enrich it with nitrogen.

Below are other entries on the topic "Cottage and garden - do it yourself"

Growing cucumbers in a round bed: Round bed for cucumbers The main thing in ... To make cucumbers even and beautiful: How to grow even and beautiful ... Growing cucumbers in one place for many years: Crop rotation and cucumbers So, your story ... Cucumbers in cold regions in the open field - an experiment: My experiment on growing cucumbers ... A greenhouse for early cucumbers with my own hands: A simple greenhouse for harvesting ... Early tomatoes and cucumbers by March 8: The earliest cucumbers and tomatoesNext ... The first cucumbers in April without a greenhouse: Very early cucumbers without a greenhouse - ...

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Cucumbers are grown by every summer resident, and it does not matter whether in a greenhouse or in an open field. It is more fundamental to understand agricultural technology and not make mistakes, otherwise there will be no harvest in the beds or in the greenhouse. Therefore, today we decided to study the main problems and mistakes when growing cucumbers.

Planting, garter, watering and covering are far from the main points in the cultivation of cucumbers, although they are very serious ones. It is necessary to understand all the smallest details and favorable factors, and only then a good harvest is possible, in which each cucumber will be one to one. If you make serious mistakes, which we will talk about later, the color and the ovary will dry out and crumble, and the fruits will turn yellow, lose their shape, and disappear on the stem.

All problems in the cultivation of cucumbers can be prevented or solved in time, and only in this case it is possible that your efforts will not be in vain.

What difficulties can we face

We want to say right away that the signs of problems, as well as they themselves in fact, can change depending on the geographic location, climate, relief of the site, the general temperature and its differences, the quality and composition of the soil, as well as from dozens of factors and, of course, your personal relationship to cultivated plants. But let's hope that the list of tips collected by our experts will help you at least partially solve the problems and significantly increase the yield, while at the same time putting its quality to the required level!

Frequent cultural diseases

One of the causes of frequent diseases of cucumbers is a thickened planting.In this case, the plants cannot be properly processed, interfere with each other's development, do not ventilate and retain many infections in the dense greenery that should have been weathered. In addition, a very dense planting dies faster, because even if a disease or pests of cucumbers are detected on time (at least quickly), they have already managed to spread to many plants in the garden or in the greenhouse.

Also read: Sowing pepper seedlings in 2018

These insects can reproduce well in organic matter, which fertilizes green beds. And most often they appear if fertilizers are poorly embedded in the soil. Settling on organic fertilizers, insects lay eggs, from which larvae and adult insects develop, then destroying the bushes and fruits themselves. Therefore, it is necessary to strictly follow agricultural techniques and be sure to care for the cucumbers in exactly the way that experts indicate.

Leaf yellowing

Often, cucumbers are attacked by a spider mite, which we recall again, since the insect can very quickly destroy plantings and crops. But the manifestation here is specific, but we want to draw attention to the yellowing of the leaf pointwise, as if acid had dripped on it.

Such damage can cause drying out and lethargy, and hence the abnormal development of the fetus itself. And what's most interesting is the cause of the problem. It turns out that the cover may be to blame, which we use at the very beginning of cucumber cultivation, when the bushes are in the seedling stage. Further, the film shelter is used to limit the sun's rays in the hot summer, which can burn the green mass. And it is the film material that causes such burns.

We all know that cucumbers cannot be watered in the heat, and even more so, irrigate them with sprinkling, since burns are possible on the leaves. But at the same time, we ourselves create problems by pulling the film over the beds. By watering in the evening, we contribute to the appearance of condensation, which, collecting in drops, falls down on the leaves. The water on the leaves and the morning sun are the cause of burns.

Poor growth of young seedlings

The reason is simple - the plants are clogged with stronger plants as well as their root system. Therefore, it is necessary to remove weeds around and inside the garden in time, thereby freeing up the soil and contributing to an increase in the consumption of nutrients from the soil, which are no longer consumed for feeding the weeds. In addition, planting without weeds is less thickened, and therefore better ventilated and less susceptible to various diseases!

Unstable harvest

The problem can occur for many different reasons, but one of the simplest is uneven harvesting. You should not wait a week to collect a bucket of cucumbers at once, you should not wait even two, because crops like quick picking, at least every day. If you leave the cucumbers on the bush, this will significantly reduce the rate of development of young ovaries, which will certainly affect the end result.

Harvest every day, every other day or two, but not less often, especially at the moment when active fruiting has begun!

There are a lot of similar problems, and it is impossible to describe in detail each of them just physically. Therefore, we focused on the most frequent ones, and then we want to move on to the mistakes of summer residents, thanks to which these problems, as well as many others, arise.

Typical mistakes when growing cucumbers in the country

We will present a little more errors, since it would be much more correct to study them and exclude them as much as possible!

Improper ventilation of the beds

In no case do not allow drafts and sudden changes in temperature in the greenhouse if you decide to ventilate the cucumbers. This should be done only when the temperature exceeds + 30 ° C, and very carefully, alternately opening the greenhouse on each side.

Excess watering

Cucumbers love water, but only in moderation at all times. It is not worth drying the soil, but it should not be poured either, because if we are talking about a greenhouse, then a constant stagnation of moisture in the soil is a direct path to rot and various pests, which will be too difficult to remove from this environment!

Inexperienced formation of bushes

If you leave planting to their own devices, then just such a crop will be obtained - weak and very insignificant. Therefore, try not only to water and ventilate, tie up and carefully feed the plants, but also to shape them.

Be sure to pinch off excess shoots to reduce the density of the bush. This is especially necessary at first, and in the lower part of the bush. Remove sinus shoots a few sheets from the surface of the soil, do this in the morning, while the sun is not so high.

Landing in one place

If the cucumbers have produced a good harvest, this is not a reason to grow them in one place for decades. No, of course, it is possible, and we will only be glad if good and rich soil can saturate the plants with nutrients. But often the soil accumulates not only positive, but also negative factors - infections, insect larvae, and so on. And, if even in the first few years the cucumbers were not sick, then later they can be completely destroyed in the shortest possible time. Try to change your location at least once every few years.

Planting by calendar

The lunar calendar, the calendar of holidays, other dates are not at all a reason to be guided by them, because planting plants has a number of requirements, this also applies to cucumbers. It is necessary to choose the optimal time for the weather, wait for the soil to warm up, calculate the planting time in such a way that the seedlings are not damaged by night frosts. Of course, sometimes, say, seeds planted on "Maundy Thursday" give excellent shoots, but we do not recommend sticking to this date!

Planting very mature seedlings

Cucumbers planted with seedlings often show good results, but for this you do not need to overexpose the seedlings, grow them up to half a meter and immediately transfer them to open ground. There may be two negative factors at once - the seedlings will not support their weight during transplantation and are injured, or the seedlings from the apartment (greenhouse) will not have time to adapt, will not harden and will simply disappear at the first draft or freeze.

Planting seeds in poor soil

Hoping for the usual maybe, many summer residents practice planting in simple, poor soil. At the same time, they treat the seeds with growth stimulants, produce stratification or otherwise prepare them for a better harvest in the future. But all this is a waste of time if the cucumbers are planted in soil that is not fertilized with organic matter. If you do not have the opportunity to use organic fertilizing, see our articles on compost and other fertilizers for the garden and vegetable garden, with their help you can find a way out of the situation.

"Alignment" with an ecological product

Why not? You always want to eat tasty and healthy food, but it will not always grow without proper processing. Many infections, pests and diseases are killed only by chemical means, and therefore you should either use very strong varieties and preach ideal agricultural techniques or process the plantings in a standard way if you choose modern fast-growing hybrids.

Ignoring bush diseases

The leaves turned yellow - that's okay, one bush disappeared - it doesn't matter, because there is more ... and so on. A very wrong opinion, because the signs of plant disease in the garden are an alarm bell that requires immediate action. In general, a triple treatment is considered correct, namely prophylactic, even if only minor signs of cucumber disease have appeared. Treat the plants on the first leaves, just before flowering, or 10 days after the first treatment, as well as two weeks before the appearance of zelents.

Single fertilization

And again to fertilizers.Earlier we said that without organic matter, the cultivation of this crop is simply unrealistic. Organic matter gradually releases nutrients and removes harmful salts from the soil. The same is with mineral fertilizers, which cucumbers love no less. But they love it gradually and in small quantities. Therefore, you can feed the plants every ten days by pouring a bucket of water with mineral fertilizers per square meter (1 tablespoon of complex fertilizer per 10 liters of water).

Waiting for large cucumbers

In no case should you collect large fruits, or rather, constantly wait for them. It turns out that cucumber is a smart plant that does not work for crops, but for seeds. Therefore, if you are waiting for a large-sized fruit on a bush, the growth of the rest simply stops when it appears. Don't let the plant get close to its goal, and then you will get a much larger harvest!

More plants in the garden - more harvest!

In general, this is a wrong principle, since each crop variety has a recommended planting density. In general, it is correct to grow only a few bushes per square meter (although in summer cottages we plant seeds every 15-20 cm). See the planting instructions for each new variety and be sure to follow the recommendations!

This list of typical mistakes is also incomplete, and many of them can be regional, have a direct dependence on the variety and other factors. So just try to follow agricultural practices, love the plants and provide them with the best possible care. It is in this case that a high-quality harvest is possible.

Mistakes and problems in growing cucumbers even the most seasoned pros have it, so don't be discouraged if, for the second or third year in a row, you fail to reach your previously set goals. Every day you gain some experience and study with us, and therefore soon we will have a really serious harvest of juicy and crunchy cucumbers.

Learning to grow cucumbers correctly (video)

We appeal to our regular readers and newcomers to the site with a request to share their observations and ideas in the comments to each article. This information is useful for all of us! We recommend that you read the article about anise or aromatic anise.

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