Can aquilegia be grown as a houseplant?

Which perennial flower crops can be grown in a room? For example, aquilegia, bell, etc. What are the features of caring for them at home?

It is worth growing garden plants at home only if you really really love these flowers, and there is simply no other opportunity to decorate your life with their presence. Indeed, without the use of special techniques, the timing of flowering "street" plants in time will not differ much from garden plants. In addition, perennial plants in open ground must go through a dormant period, the absence of which can adversely affect their development and their ability to bloom. However, if you are an enthusiastic person, then such "little things" will not prevent you from enjoying the beauty of garden plants in indoor culture, and our advice will help you in this interesting endeavor!

Aquilegia

A wonderful perennial that grows beautifully even in partial shade. The straight, upward-branched stems of this plant, beloved by many, reach a height of 1 m, and the roots sometimes go 60 cm deep, so for growing in the room, take care of sufficiently spacious dishes and loose humus soil. The seeds of the aquilegia are small, at first they are sown in small boxes with light soil, and the seedlings are subsequently cut open.The abundant flowering of aquilegia continues for two months. The color of the flowers can be very diverse, but more often the blue-violet range predominates. The rest of the time, the decorative effect is created by graceful, repeatedly dissected leaves with a bluish bloom.

Aquilegia

With a little effort, you can make the aquilegia bloom in April. To do this, keep pots with well-developed bushes outside until the onset of frost. Then move them indoors, but unheated and dark. And starting from January-February, take them out into the light, preferably in a cool place with a temperature of + 12-1b ° C, where the aquilegia blooms with magnificent flowers with long spurs. The new hybrid forms are especially good: the snow-white Crystal star and the two-color red and white - the Fire star with large, up to 10 cm in diameter, luxurious flowers!

Over time, mature aquilegia bushes, even when cultivated in the garden, grow and bloom less abundantly. Therefore, they need to be updated periodically.

Bell

Everybody knows the house bell. This is a variety of the equifolia bell, originating from the Mediterranean, with blue or white flowers, colloquially referred to as "groom" and "bride". In addition to it, if you so desire, you can grow other traditionally garden species in the room. For example, a middle bell, striking the imagination with an unusually bright heap of closed flowers! They are very large, up to 7 cm long, blue, light blue or pink, simple or terry! This species is a typical biennial, but if you sow the seeds early (in April-March), the plants will delight you with their flowering in the same summer. And the bushes transplanted in the fall from the site into flower pots, as well as aquilegia, can easily be made to bloom in the room in spring, starting in March. After flowering, the stem dies off, but new buds form on the roots. A sprout with middle bell flowers reaches a height of 1 m, keep this in mind when choosing a pot. And here is another species - the Carpathian bell is much lower, about 40 cm. Its long branchy stems with heart-shaped basal leaves form lush green curtains, on which wide-open purple bells sway. The stalks of the Carpathian bell are so thin that it seems the flowers are about to ring!

Bellflower (Campanula)

Phlox

This magnificent perennial can also be grown in a pot culture. We think you will like it when lush panicles - inflorescences of paniculata phlox - flare up over the windowsill with piercing pink paints, and a cloud of delicate aroma floats around the room. However, the flowers of phlox paniculata can be not only pink, but pure white, crimson, lilac, bluish, except for monochromatic ones there are also “eyes” of a different color.

It's very easy to get phlox in an apartment: you don't even have to sow seeds and nurture tender seedlings. Because phlox paniculata easily propagates by stem and root cuttings or by dividing the bush. In the room, planting of cuttings and cuttings can be carried out at any time of the year. Despite the fact that the phlox bush can be impressive in size, the roots of the plant are located mainly in the upper layer of the soil, so it needs a small pot, but it must be beautiful, to match the plant itself, and the land is fertile. Early phlox varieties bloom at the end of June, late ones bloom until the end of September!

Phlox (Phloxs)

And finally, two words about the peculiarities of caring for garden plants at home.

First of all, the limited amount of soil in the pot implies more frequent watering and feeding. And most likely, garden plants will not have enough light, because do not say so, but ordinary window glass absorbs a significant amount of solar radiation, so necessary for the formation of flowers.Therefore, when the weather permits, keep your newly-born indoor plants outdoors: on the balcony, outdoor flower girl, or at least on the windowsill of an open window. And if you can still provide your pets with the necessary rest period, they will be able to bloom at home, starting from the very early spring!

A beautiful aquilegia will become a bright and delicate decoration of your garden or windowsill, if you take proper care of such a plant. Find out how to do it.

Description of the plant

Aquilegia is a perennial plant belonging to the Buttercup family. The name is divided into two parts and is translated from Latin as "water" and "to collect" (or "eagle"). In the common people, the plant is also called the eagle, the catchment, the shoes of the elves and the dove.

A feature of the flower is that after rain, water accumulates on its petals. There are more than 120 varieties, but the most common are aquilegia terry, indoor, hybrid, white, blue, Barlow Christa, Crimson Star, yellow, Nora Barlow, undersized and some others.

The plant has beautiful flowers, consisting of five petals and a peculiar five-part corolla in the center. Many varieties are hybrid, therefore they combine several shades, but the most common are lilac, pink, beige, white, purple.

How, when and where to plant?

How to grow an aquilegia flower at home? First, choose a suitable place in which the plant will be permanently. Growing in a pot at home is allowed, but still the catchment will feel more comfortable in the open air, and most of the known hybrid varieties are frost-resistant and relatively unpretentious. It is best to choose a well-lit place, but still protected from direct sunlight. In partial shade, aquilegia can also grow, but its flowers under such conditions can become small and lose their decorative effect.

The second important issue is landing time. If you decide to prepare seedlings at home, then the seeds are sown in March. Seedlings usually appear after two weeks, and when they acquire two or three strengthened leaves, they can be transplanted into open ground. If you plan to sow seeds right away, then you can do this either in late spring or early June, or in the fall immediately after harvest. Moreover, sowing before winter allows you to get more developed and lush bushes.

Finally, let's take a look at the two main growing methods:

1. From seeds. They are sown in the garden when the air temperature warms up to 16-18 degrees. The seeds are placed in the ground about five millimeters deep and covered with foil if it's cool outside. The soil is moistened approximately every three days. Shoots should appear in three to five weeks, at which point the film should be removed.
2. From seedlings. If you chose this method, then in April or late March, sow the seeds in pots with prepared soil, immersing them about 0.5 cm.Do not let the soil dry out, moisten it regularly. The optimum temperature is 18-19 degrees. And so that the seedlings appear faster, the seeds can be frozen before planting, that is, they can be left in the refrigerator or on the balcony for a couple of days. Planting is carried out after the appearance of three strong leaves.

The necessary conditions

Caring for aquilegia involves the observance of several conditions:

• Suitable soil. Although aquilegia is not so picky about the soil, it is still better to prepare a mixture consisting of leaf humus, sand and sod land. It is not necessary to change the soil in the garden, but it should be fairly light and loose. If the soil on your site is not very fertile, dig it about thirty to forty centimeters, adding a little humus or compost.
• Watering should be frequent, as the plant is moisture-loving.Ideally, the soil should be almost constantly moist, and it is desirable to simulate rain and irrigate the soil and the flowers themselves with a spray bottle. With this watering, droplets of water will accumulate on the petals, shimmering under the rays of the sun.
• Periodic weeding and loosening of the soil. It should be freed from weeds, as they interfere with the normal growth and flowering of aquilegia. Loosening allows you to provide oxygen access to the roots and avoid rotting.
• If the soil is not fertile enough (weak, small and withered leaves and flowers of aquilegia will tell about this), then apply top dressing. It is best to do this three times during the entire warm season: in early May, in June, and also after flowering or pruning. For fertilization, you can use a mineral or organic fertilizer, mullein. It is also recommended to periodically apply humus under each bush.
• Transplants. In one place, aquilegia grows safely up to five years, then it loses its decorative qualities. To avoid this, collect the seeds yourself and sow them in other areas. Large bushes can also be transplanted carefully.

How to reproduce?

There are several ways to propagate a plant such as aquilegia:

• Seeds. They are sown either directly in open ground in late spring or in autumn after ripening and harvesting. It is also possible to prepare seedlings, but this method is more laborious and time consuming.
• Division of the bush. This method is used much less often, since the roots are located deep in the soil and are rather fragile, therefore they can be injured and damaged during reproduction. But if you decide to choose this method, then carefully dig out the bush, shake it off and rinse the root, divide it into several parts (each should have strong shoots). Places of cuts can be sprinkled with ash. Next, plant small bushes in different places and water them abundantly and often so that they take root faster.
• Cuttings. The cuttings are separated from the main bush and planted in the sand, covered with a film and actively moistened by spraying or spraying. And in order for the shoot to take root faster and better, you can treat it with a growth stimulant.

Tip: if you grow aquilegia from seeds, then remember that they contain toxic substances. Therefore, work should be done with gloves to protect the skin. Also, keep seeds out of the reach of animals and children.

Possible problems

Growing aquilegia can be overshadowed by some problems. So, many encounter pests, and most often plants attack aphids, leaf miners and spider mites. Also, diseases are often found: gray rot, powdery mildew.

The main symptoms of the latter are white bloom on the foliage and its subsequent darkening and falling off. Gray rot appears as watery areas of darkening. To preserve the plant, you should treat it with a sulfur-containing agent. Insecticides are used to control insects.

To make aquilegia delight you with its delicate flowers, take care of it correctly.

The charming catchment is one of the most beloved shade-tolerant perennials. In the garden, touching aquilegia flowers with spurs seem to be fluttering fairies, then elven caps, shine with mystery and conquer with their grace. And although this is not the most spectacular of the blooming fashionistas, it is very reliable. And the flowering varieties of aquilegia are able to surprise no less than their most catchy competitors. Whatever aquilegia we are talking about, the most popular and affordable way to multiply their collection is to grow plants from seeds, especially since there is nothing complicated in this process.

Aquilegia (Aquilegia) is one of the most popular garden perennials.Despite the fact that the plant is mainly represented by various hybrid varieties and variety mixtures, and species aquilegia are considered very rare, seed propagation is the main method of propagation for all aquilegia. And although these plants can also be obtained by vegetative methods, it is easier, faster and much cheaper to obtain aquilegia from seeds. By purchasing just a few bags or collecting seeds yourself, you can get enough full-fledged seedlings for any large ensemble in one "run".

Aquilegia is easy to recognize by the famous spur on the flowers, thanks to which the plant got its specific name. Touching flowers evoking a wide variety of associations with fairy-tale characters and spirits are a small masterpiece of nature that you never tire of admiring. Complex flowers on thin pedicels in loose inflorescences mysteriously and weightlessly gleam in the shaded areas of the garden, sparkling against the bright background of leaves. Triple-complex, invariably bright in early spring, and in summer, and in autumn, the leaves seem to be an openwork and shining in the shade velvety background for quivering flowering. Simple or double, with a double perianth, the flowers of the catchment are ideally combined with bright leaves. Among the aquilegia there are plants that are undersized and taller, large-flowered and terry. You can choose them to your taste and for any decorative task.

Self-collection of aquilegia seeds and their selection for sowing

If you want to collect seeds from aquilegia yourself, then it is better to plant varieties at a considerable distance, not to mix in compositions, since they are very easily pollinated and crossed. If you collect seeds in decorative compositions and flower beds, then you can control the varietal purity of aquilegia by preventing natural pollination - by tying gauze isolators and self-pollination of flowers with a brush (you need to rinse and dry it after each pollination). The collection of aquilegia seeds is usually carried out in August, before they wake up (it is better to dry the seedlings in room conditions). With a light pressure on the sides of the "boxes", the seeds easily wake up. Tying allows you to prevent this process. If it is not possible to sow seeds directly into the soil, then they are stored at a low temperature.

It is advisable to sow aquilegia seeds as fresh as possible. The seed life is limited, even after several months, the harvested seeds will need to be stratified. When buying aquilegia seeds, you need to carefully study the collection time and storage conditions, try not to buy seeds older than 1 year, even if you really like the varieties. The maximum shelf life is 5 years, seeds older than 2 years are difficult to force to sprout, but with proper sowing, strong seedlings can be obtained from them. Aquilegia is popular and affordable, there are a lot of seeds on sale, you just need to choose a reliable manufacturer. It is better to select mixtures and varieties to your taste.

Soil and containers for sowing aquilegia

Aquilegia can be sown on seedlings, and in seedling boxes, and directly into open soil. Moreover, the last option is the most popular and productive. When choosing containers for growing aquilegia seedlings, preference should be given to deep enough boxes or pots so that the plants have enough space to form a stem root. For diving, it is better to choose peat and paper containers in which you can plant the plant directly into the soil.

For aquilegia, a standard universal seedling substrate or any light soil mixture is quite suitable. If you are composing the substrate yourself, then mix in equal parts turf, leafy soil, humus and sand or a mixture of turf, humus and sand without leafy soil.

Sowing aquilegia seeds at home

The optimal time for sowing aquilegia seeds is considered to be sowing immediately after harvest, in the fall.When buying seeds, sowing for higher germination percentages is also best done in the fall. Alternative dates - early spring, but in this case aquilegia seeds will need stratification (preferably growing through seedlings, but you can also sow in the ground).

When sowing aquilegia in autumn no pre-planting treatment is needed in the soil of freshly harvested seeds. Sowing is carried out before winter, and the whole procedure is reduced to several steps:

1. On a seedbed with prepared, dug, loosened soil, carefully sow the seeds.
2. Cover them on top with a thin layer of soil (about 0.5 cm). Water carefully.
3. Mulch crops with humus or compost, covering with a thin layer of dry leaves (any mulching material available to you will do).

When sowing aquilegia in spring and for seedlings, and it is advisable to stratify the seeds into the ground, store in the cold. There are several options for this procedure:

• keep the aquilegia seeds in the refrigerator for 4-6 weeks;
• mix seeds with soil, place in a container and bag and keep in the refrigerator all winter;
• take aquilegia seeds or a mixture of seeds with sand or substrate outside, place in a snowdrift, etc.

Some growers are experimenting with the reverse procedure - keeping the seeds in heat (35 degrees for 4-5 weeks) or scarification (sanding). But, as a rule, more friendly aquilegia shoots are still obtained when cooled.

When sowing in spring for seedlings of self-collected or purchased seeds from the collection of the fall of the previous year, you must:

1. Fill the container with the substrate and level its surface, pour the substrate with warm water.
2. Sparsely scatter stratified aquilegia seeds over the surface and sprinkle on top with a few millimeters of soil (preferably sifted).
3. Transfer containers to room conditions for germination, covering with glass or film.

You can sow aquilegia seeds in spring and in open soil. The optimal time for sowing seeds is considered April or early May, when the soil warms up. Seeds freshly harvested in the fall of the previous year can be used without stratification. Seeds of aquilegia are also sown to a depth of half a centimeter, as in the fall, but the crops are covered with foil on top. For germination, regular watering is needed. The shelter is removed only when friendly shoots appear. If you want to simplify the growing process, sowing can be carried out later, but then young plants will have to provide more thorough care.

The most difficult process is sowing very old seeds... In this case, the procedure changes somewhat, stratification is carried out after sowing:

1. Aquilegia seeds must be washed in water and soaked for several hours in a warm solution of potassium permanganate.
2. Seeds are sown in a leveled substrate and lightly covered with soil.
3. Without covering the containers, leave them at room temperature for 3-4 days.
4. The containers are taken outside or refrigerated for stratification for 4-6 weeks.
5. Bring crops back to warm, place in standard room conditions.

Conditions for germination of aquilegia seeds

For aquilegia seeds, both heat and coolness are equally harmful. The optimum temperature, in which even old seeds germinate at a maximum in a month, is 16-18 degrees. Lighting should be as bright as possible, but diffused.

Growing aquilegia

In containers, seedlings are grown until the second leaf appears. Seedlings should be protected from waterlogging and complete drought, direct sunlight, and very careful watering should be carried out.

Diving seedlings and caring for young aquilegia

It is advisable to dive aquilegia seedlings directly on the beds, in open soil.If the seeds were sown early, there is no way to plant them even in a greenhouse, then the plants dive either into individual containers or into large boxes, increasing the distance between the plants, and they are transferred to the soil already in June. When diving with aquilegia, you need to handle very carefully, trying to avoid even the slightest injury to the rhizome. Seedlings are kept in the same cool conditions. Supplementary lighting of at least 1-2 hours will only benefit the plants.

When sowing in open soil, friendly young shoots of aquilegia are thinned out at the same stage, leaving a distance of 5-20 cm between the plants.

Picking aquilegia seedlings

Planting aquilegia seedlings in the soil

Aquilegia obtained from seeds will bloom only in the second year, but full disclosure of the decorative greenery should not be expected earlier than the third year. Therefore, most often aquilegia in May-June is transferred to growing on separate seedling beds, and transplanted to a permanent place only in August of this year or in the spring of next year. But you can plant plants and immediately in decorative compositions.

When choosing a place for growing aquilegia, it should be remembered that these are shade-tolerant plants that are best suited for partial shade. On sunny grounds, aquilegia will also take root, but they will fade faster and will not be pampered with their luxurious foliage. The soil can be virtually anything, as long as the condition of sufficient nutritional value, looseness, and water permeability is met. Before planting, it is better to improve the soil with the addition of compost or other organic fertilizer. It is advisable to dig up the soil on the site in advance, but you can carry out the procedure immediately before planting.

The distance when planting aquilegia seedlings is from 25 cm for the lowest varieties to 40 cm for the highest ones. Plants are transferred with full preservation of the earthen coma.

Young aquilegia need a little more intensive care than adults or those obtained by division: it is necessary for the plants to be weeded so that delicate plants do not suffer from aggressive neighbors, and do not forget to loosen the soil after abundant watering and rainfall. Watering is carried out before the resumption of active growth, later - only during a prolonged drought. In summer, for young aquilegia, you can fertilize with full mineral fertilizers. If your aquilegia suddenly bloom in the same year, then cut off the shoots immediately after flowering, preventing the seeds from setting.

For the winter, young aquilegia are mulched with compost or humus.

Next spring, be sure to add soil to the base of the aquilegia bushes, in order to prevent exposing the rhizomes and raising them in the soil from the very beginning.

Catchment, or Aquilegia (Aquilegia)

Alternative breeding methods for aquilegia

These perennials always give active self-seeding, practically continuously providing you with ready-made seedlings. Young plants should be carefully dug up and transplanted to any desired place, if there is a need for additional copies of aquilegia (if not, then as they grow, self-seeding will help to effortlessly replace adult bushes when they degenerate).

Vegetatively, aquilegia is rarely propagated, the plants tolerate transplanting very poorly due to deep and fragile roots. You can divide it only in early September or early spring, digging up aquilegia bushes, leaving only 2-3 young leaves and carefully cutting the taproot lengthwise into pieces with 2-3 buds and a good bundle of roots in each. For rooting, you need regular watering.

Varietal aquilegia can be propagated by cuttings of young shoots with leaves that have just begun to bloom, breaking them off with a "heel" and rooting under the hood.

Which perennial flower crops can be grown in a room? For example, aquilegia, bell, etc. What are the features of caring for them at home?

It is worth growing garden plants at home only if you really really love these flowers, and there is simply no other opportunity to decorate your life with their presence. Indeed, without the use of special techniques, the timing of flowering "street" plants in time will not differ much from garden plants. In addition, perennial plants in open ground must go through a dormant period, the absence of which can adversely affect their development and their ability to bloom. However, if you are an enthusiastic person, then such "little things" will not prevent you from enjoying the beauty of garden plants in indoor culture, and our advice will help you in this interesting endeavor!

Aquilegia

A wonderful perennial that grows beautifully even in partial shade. The straight, upward-branched stems of this plant, beloved by many, reach a height of 1 m, and the roots sometimes go 60 cm deep, so for growing in the room, take care of sufficiently spacious dishes and loose humus soil. The seeds of the aquilegia are small, at first they are sown in small boxes with light soil, and the seedlings are subsequently cut open. The abundant flowering of aquilegia continues for two months. The color of the flowers can be very diverse, but more often the blue-violet range prevails. The rest of the time, the decorative effect is created by graceful, repeatedly dissected leaves with a bluish bloom.

Aquilegia

With a little effort, you can make the aquilegia bloom in April. To do this, keep pots with well-developed bushes outside until the onset of frost. Then move them indoors, but unheated and dark. And starting from January-February, take them out into the light, preferably in a cool place with a temperature of + 12-1b ° C, where the aquilegia blooms with magnificent flowers with long spurs. The new hybrid forms are especially good: the snow-white Crystal star and the two-color red and white - the Fire star with large, up to 10 cm in diameter, luxurious flowers!

Over time, mature aquilegia bushes, even when cultivated in the garden, grow and bloom less abundantly. Therefore, they need to be updated periodically.

Bell

Everybody knows the house bell. This is a variety of the equifolia bell, originating from the Mediterranean, with blue or white flowers, colloquially referred to as "groom" and "bride". In addition to it, if you so desire, you can grow other traditionally garden species in the room. For example, a middle bell, striking the imagination with an unusually bright heap of closed flowers! They are very large, up to 7 cm long, blue, light blue or pink, simple or terry! This species is a typical biennial, but if you sow the seeds early (in April-March), the plants will delight you with their flowering in the same summer. And the bushes transplanted in the fall from the site into flower pots, as well as aquilegia, can easily be made to bloom in the room in spring, starting in March. After flowering, the stem dies off, but new buds form on the roots. A sprout with middle bell flowers reaches a height of 1 m, keep this in mind when choosing a pot. And here is another species - the Carpathian bell is much lower, about 40 cm. Its long branchy stems with heart-shaped basal leaves form lush green curtains, on which wide-open purple bells sway. The stalks of the Carpathian bell are so thin that it seems the flowers are about to ring!

Bellflower (Campanula)

Phlox

This magnificent perennial can also be grown in a pot culture. We think you will like it when lush panicles - inflorescences of paniculata phlox - flare up over the windowsill with piercing pink paints, and a cloud of delicate aroma floats around the room. However, the flowers of phlox paniculata can be not only pink, but pure white, crimson, lilac, bluish, except for monochromatic ones there are also “eyes” of a different color.

It's very easy to get phlox in an apartment: you don't even have to sow seeds and nurture tender seedlings. Because paniculata phlox is easily propagated by stem and root cuttings or by dividing the bush. In the room, planting of cuttings and cuttings can be carried out at any time of the year. Despite the fact that the phlox bush can be impressive in size, the roots of the plant are located mainly in the upper layer of the soil, so it needs a small pot, but it must be beautiful, to match the plant itself, and the earth is fertile. The early phlox varieties bloom at the end of June, the late ones bloom until the end of September!

Phlox (Phloxs)

And finally, two words about the peculiarities of caring for garden plants at home.

First of all, the limited amount of soil in the pot implies more frequent watering and feeding. And most likely, garden plants will not have enough light, because do not say so, but ordinary window glass absorbs a significant amount of solar radiation, so necessary for the formation of flowers. Therefore, when the weather permits, keep your newly-born indoor plants outdoors: on the balcony, outdoor flower girl, or at least on the windowsill of an open window. And if you can still provide your pets with the necessary rest period, they will be able to bloom at home, starting from the very early spring!

Phlox care recommendations

Content:

Phlox care

Homeland of phlox

Phlox is a genus of herbaceous plants from the Sinyukhov family, which numbers about forty species, not counting wild ones. Almost all phloxes are hardy perennial plants with erect, ascending or creeping stems from 70 to 150 cm.

All of them are distributed mainly in North America, however, in Russia they can be provided with proper conditions for growth and flowering, because "Flame" (Greek Phlox) has been decorating gardens with the beauty of its flowering for many centuries.

Phlox will also attract many insects to the site, such as butterflies, bumblebees and bees, and thanks to the variety of colors, they can be perfectly combined with other flowers in the garden.

Watering mode

Water the plant during the summer if the rainfall is less than 20-30mm per week. Phloxes like watering plentiful, but infrequently. It is important to make sure that the plants are not planted in the lowlands, or close to groundwater. Phlox root is a rhizome of about 20 cm, adventitious roots are located closer to the ground - about 5-7 cm. Therefore, stagnant water from above, like groundwater close to the surface (about 15 cm), will lead to decay and death. It is best to make a small mound for planting the plant.

Illumination requirements

Phlox blooms gorgeous in cool, sunny climates, in well-fertilized soil. They will do just fine in partial shade, as long as they get at least six hours of direct sunlight a day.

Temperature regime

Since phloxes hibernate in the open ground in the Russian climate, there is no need to talk about the temperature regime: they can withstand both frost and summer heat. In those regions where winters are longer and colder, it is recommended to cover with spruce branches for the winter, in the southern regions in the summer in strong sunshine, create artificial shading (nevertheless, leaving a six-hour daylight hours with direct sunlight).

Fertilizer, top dressing

In general, phlox grow on different soils, being an unpretentious plant, do not require fertilizers. But, of course, every florist wants to achieve the best result - more magnificent, taller, stronger, more beautiful. This means a little effort is needed: phloxes prefer saturated, slightly alkaline garden loam, so if your garden tends to be acidic, it is recommended to regularly apply lime every two to three years. Apply some mineral fertilizers and manure as top dressing. Humus also does not hurt.

Add a thin layer of compost every spring, followed by a 5 cm layer of mulch to retain moisture and control weeds.

Phlox transplant

We transplant phloxes correctly

Usually phlox are not transplanted, allocating a permanent place when planting in the garden, but if the need arises, phlox are transplanted even during the flowering period, they tolerate this normally. For example, every 2-3 years, tall phloxes must be separated by seating to minimize disease problems, and also to keep the plant vigorous. This is best done in the spring, before new growth begins. The plant is carefully dug up and divided into bushes, each of which should contain from three to five vigorous shoots with roots. Phlox are planted depending on the variety - most often 45 cm apart.

Reproduction of phlox

Phlox breeding methods

In spring, the plant is planted at a distance of 30 to 60 cm from each other, depending on the variety. Choose a location with moist, well-drained soil. Some species prefer full sun, while others thrive in shade. Shading will reduce the quantity and quality of flowering, can provoke some diseases, and if phlox are planted in the shade of trees, their roots will fight for moisture and nutrients. The same goes for large shrubs.

Phloxes are easy to propagate by simple division, in late summer or early spring. They are dug up and separated for rejuvenation and reproduction, leaving several healthy shoots with a root. After the first frost, cut the stems of the tall phlox 3-5 cm above the soil line and carefully dig out the bush, trying not to damage the roots (as mentioned above, the rhizome reaches 15-20 cm deep and the adventitious roots are located higher and wider, so you need to dig, stepping back from the stem by 20-25 cm, immersing the shovel on the entire bayonet). Having divided the bush into several fractions, only one part is planted in the old place, the rest - in another place.

In early summer, phlox can be propagated by cuttings, cutting off a strong shoot with two nodules and digging into fertilized soil.

Although phlox is easy to grow from seed, this is not done in order to avoid disappointment: a flower grown in this way will most likely not retain all the characteristics of the original mother plant.

Blooming phlox

Phloxes attract butterflies and bees

There are several types, the most common of which are spring-flowering creeping phlox and summer-flowering tall phlox. Phlox blooms are inflorescences of small, star-shaped colorful flowers.

The color scheme ranges from pure white, through all reds and burgundy, to deep purple. Flowering begins in June and continues, depending on the variety, until the end of October. When the flowers are withered, cut back the old stems to allow the phlox to bloom again.

All types of phlox, according to their structural features, can be divided into three groups - bush, creeping phlox and loose turf. The group of bush, in turn, includes two subgroups: tall and short.

Shrub tall (from 90 to 180 cm) bloom from summer to early autumn. The stems are straight and strong, and the flowers are gathered in large paniculate corollas. The subgroup includes paniculate phlox, smooth phlox, spotted phlox and others.

Shrub undersized (from 40 to 60 cm) bloom from late spring to mid-summer. Their bushes are looser, the stems are either straight or ascending with a lying base, sometimes branching. The flowers are collected in umbrellas, slightly less lush than those of a tall fellow. These, among others, include Caroline phlox, hairy phlox, oval phlox, adorable phlox.

The flowers of phlox, which are part of the bush group, have one characteristic feature - the edge of the corolla petals does not have grooves and cuts.

Creeping rising phlox up to 35 cm high, these are transitional species.They can be attributed to both creeping and bush. Flowering begins in mid-spring and lasts until mid-summer. Their stems are creeping, branching, peduncles with one or more flowers rise at the ends.

The most famous in this group are: Hood's phlox, styloid phlox, Douglas phlox, stellate phlox, as well as snow phlox and dwarf phlox.

Loose turf species are those whose vegetative stems branch, spread and, often, do not bloom, forming only a loose turf. Smaller flowering shoots are already moving away from them. Flowering takes place from May to the end of June. This type of phlox includes stoliferous phlox and splayed phlox.

Pruning phlox

How to prune phlox correctly

For the best air circulation, as well as to avoid powdery mildew disease in phlox, several stems are removed when they reach 15-20 cm in height. Don't forget to cut off wilted and faded plants so the phlox can bloom again.

Phlox wintering

Phlox hibernate outdoors. If there is little snow, there is a possibility of freezing of the buds and roots (already at minus 25), so it is better to play it safe and cover the phlox in the fall before the onset of severe cold weather.

Frequently asked Questions

Questions most often asked by readers

• Why do phloxes turn yellow?

If there are no other symptoms, such as damage by pests or bacterial diseases, yellowing of the leaves may be caused by insufficient watering, or this is a natural process that should not cause alarm - some of the leaves die off, new ones grow.

• Why do phlox bloom late?

Phlox grows beautifully in full sun and partial shade. But with a lack of ultraviolet light, flowering occurs later, and the flowers become smaller and pale, while they are more extended in length.

Diseases and pests

Powdery mildew on phlox leaves

Tall phloxes are susceptible to powdery mildew, especially in regions with hot, humid summers, so choose resistant varieties, or give the plant room - thin the stem in time for spacious air circulation, avoid stagnant moisture and watch out for foliage. If the leaves begin to look like they are sprinkled with talcum powder, you need to pinch them off. In severe cases, the affected plants are treated with a fungicide.

Powdery mildew remains the most common disease for phlox, but there are other dangers. Other diseases and pests such as spider mites, viruses and fungi can infect both phlox and other plants in the garden - flowers, fruits and vegetables. Each disease has its own method of cure; for phlox, it is no different from the methods of treating other plants: chemical preparations are used, and in especially severe cases, the plant is destroyed.

Phlox care video

In fact, phlox is a plant that requires little or no maintenance. Planted - and admire. On any soil, in the sun or in partial shade. Watering is necessary only in dry summers, usually there is enough rain. It hibernates in the ground, does not require frequent transplants. Reproduction is as easy as shelling pears. But it invariably pleases and delights with an abundance of flowering, magnificent colors and a pleasant aroma. And if you make a little effort, it will become the envy of all gardening neighbors.

You can also share your phlox care secrets. If you have any questions - ask them in the comments below, we will be happy to answer them.

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Lush flower caps amaze with their beauty and variety of colors. Even if you plant the site exclusively with phlox, it will look bright and festive. Annuals and perennials, creeping and bush, paniculate and spherical, grasses and shrubs - all these are amazing phloxes.

Features of growing phlox in the open field

These flowers are classified as trouble-free plants. They are resistant to winter frosts, undemanding to soil and living conditions. However, do not rush to rejoice - phloxes will bloom magnificently not always and not everywhere. To get really beautiful flowers and long lasting flowering, you need to fulfill some of the vagaries of the plant.

Planting phlox in the ground

When planting phlox, take into account the peculiarities of their root system. It is located mainly in the upper layer of the soil and consists of many thin processes. The root mass does not tolerate the competition of stronger plants (shrubs and trees) and stagnant water in the surface layer of the earth.

Planting methods

• Seating

Seedlings are planted in pre-prepared holes, removed from a temporary container.

IMPORTANT! If you dry out the rhizome when planting, the phlox will hurt, it will not acclimatize and develop well.

Before planting a bush, fill the planting hole with water and wait until it is absorbed. The base of the seedling is buried at a distance of at least 2.5 cm. Rooting occurs within 13-16 days.

The distance between plants is maintained from 35-45 cm, between rows from 50 cm.

• Growing phlox from seeds.

Planting material can be planted directly in open ground in spring or autumn. Some seeds require stratification, others can be sown without preparation. Usually these include annual varieties. Perennials are planted for seedlings or in the soil before winter. It is recommended to buy seeds of hybrids in the store in order to get exactly the plant that you want. Otherwise, self-prepared material will not receive varietal characteristics of the flower.

Before sowing, the seeds are freed from the capsules to increase germination. Soaking in a container of water will help to select high-quality seeds - only those that have settled at the bottom can be planted. The ones that pop up are empty and useless.

Optimal planting time

Planting and replanting phlox is allowed all summer, including autumn September. You can start planting in April, after the soil has thawed and slightly warmed up. Before winter, seeds are sown until the November frosts.

Plant soil

Phloxes find fault with the composition of the soil a little, being content with any. However, loam is ideal - moderately loose and moist, containing useful elements and a neutral reaction.

ADVICE! Add organic matter (compost or rotted mullein) and wood ash to the planting soil. Grateful flowers will grow powerful and blooming magnificently.

Planting phlox in the fall

Saplings can be planted in the first month of autumn. For this, the flowering top must be cut off, and the leaves and stems must be left. Phlox planted in the fall will bloom next summer.

Planting material acquired later should not be planted. Usually, the sprouts are dropped in a quiet place 1-2 dm deep, covered with lutrasil or a layer of mulch on top.

Planting in spring

It is advisable to have time to plant phlox seedlings before mid-May so that they take root before the summer heat attacks.

Features of phlox care in the open field

When caring for flowers, special attention should be paid to the choice of location, irrigation regime and fertilization. On these three whales the health of phlox is kept.

Location and lighting for the plant

If phlox are planted in a permanently shaded area, they will, of course, grow due to their endurance. But you will definitely not see beautiful bright colors! But take a look at the overly elongated painful stems, thin and deformed.

Give the phlox as much light as possible to get healthy, beautiful plants with a sturdy, sturdy stem that holds the voluminous caps of dense inflorescences. In partial shade conditions, the flowers will appear later than the due date and will be pale and friable.

Air humidity

Phloxes tolerate heat and arid atmosphere well, especially with sufficient moisture in the soil.But in the absence of rain, they should be periodically sprayed from above from a spray bottle. The procedure can be carried out only in the evening, when the sun reduces its aggressiveness.

ATTENTION! When spraying, water should not fall on the flower petals so that ugly brown spots do not appear on them.

How to water properly?

The spreading root system quickly picks up available moisture from the topsoil and begins to suffer from its absence. At the same time, phloxes stop development, become smaller, throw out few flowers, and lose their decorative effect. To prevent such phenomena, watering should be done as often as possible, keeping the soil always wet. On hot, rainless days, the soil is moistened daily.

The approximate rate per square meter is 1.5-2 buckets. Pour under the root, but not into the bush, so as not to erode the soil and not harm the thin roots. After watering and rainfall, the land must be loosened.

If this is not possible, use mulching with humus, peat, tree bark or grass, which will retain moisture for a long time inside the roots and soil.

Top dressing and loosening of the flower

Phlox goes through several stages in its development, in which it requires fertilizers of different composition.

• At the first stage there is an intensive growth of stems and leaves, phlox actively consumes nitrogenous substances. At the beginning and at the end of May, phlox is fertilized with a mixture of nitroammofoska, wood ash and mullein infusion.
• Second stage - this is the budding of a plant followed by flowering. Phlox begins to reduce nitrogen intake and need potassium substances. Therefore, potassium sulfate (12-15 g per bucket of water) is added to the third feeding, held in the second half of June, reducing the amount of organic matter. After a week, phlox can be sprayed with low concentration urea.
• In the third stage the flower begins to prepare for winter, accumulating more nutrients in the roots. It needs phosphorus to form the proteins it needs. In the first decade of July, 12-16 g of superphosphate should be added to the already known components.

The next 2 dressings are carried out at the end of July and mid-August, adding a full set of trace elements and minerals. The last "feeding" is done at the end of summer using a mixture of phosphorus (18-22 g) and potassium (9-12 g).

ATTENTION! Root dressing is applied only after abundant watering.

Pruning phlox

Throughout the growing season, sanitary or cleansing pruning is done, removing dried and diseased parts.

In the fall, a total operation is carried out, preparing the phlox root system for wintering.

Pruning methods

Cleaning of plants from unnecessary organs is done with a garden pruner, removing dry leaves, elongated and deformed shoots, and diseased parts.

Pruning phlox for the winter

In the fall, phloxes begin to gradually dry out and wither, ending the growing season. At this time, they are cut flush with the ground, leaving no stumps. The latter are a base for rest for various pests. The operation can be performed from October, after the cold temperature is established.

IMPORTANT! To prevent attacks of fungi and viruses, the ground around the cut phlox and the remaining base of the stem is treated with fungicides.

Phlox transplant

In general, it is a simple procedure that the flowers tolerate quite painlessly, especially if it is done correctly. A transplant is needed for phloxes that have been growing for a long time in one area, sick and damaged by pests.

Transplant methods

In mature phlox, it is necessary to chop off the lateral roots, thereby rejuvenating the flowers. It is recommended to open the main rhizome, shaking off the soil from it, only in diseased plants. Healthy specimens are transplanted by transshipment, thus moving even flowering ones.

Transplant in the fall

The beginning of autumn is the optimal time for transplanting phlox. A feature of their development is a "cold start" - the roots begin to develop very early, when the rest of the plants are still "sleeping" after winter.

Transplant in spring

Should be done very early - as soon as the frozen soil allows. This is again due to the early awakening of the plant. If you are late in moving, phlox will slow down its development, taking root in a new area.

Reproduction

I want to increase the beauty of phlox all the time by planting more and more of these beautiful plants. Fortunately, the flower reproduces well in a variety of ways.

Reproduction methods

Annual phlox is easiest to propagate by seed. It is recommended to purchase them in the store; only non-hybrid plants are harvested on their own.

Vegetative reproduction is carried out in perennial phlox. You can use the following methods:

• Separation of the bush. In autumn or early spring, a suitable bush is removed from the ground, the roots are freed and divided into several parts. Each specimen obtained must contain several root shoots and shoot buds. Plants are immediately planted in the soil so that the roots do not dry out.
• Layers. Gently bend any healthy stem to the soil surface and bury it. For strong, durable shoots that can break, simply sprinkle with soil as high as possible. Soon, young roots will begin to form on the branches. Subsequently, you need to carefully separate them and plant them.
• Remains of roots. The method is used when transplanting phlox. Before removing the plant from the ground, the side roots must be chopped off and left in the old planting pit, covered with soil. New plants will grow from them during the summer.
• Growing from cuttings. Leaves and stems can be used as planting material. They are harvested during active growth before budding begins. Cuttings should be rooted in a very light substrate consisting of perlite, peat, vermiculite or sand. The mixture is poured into boxes and constantly moistened until young seedlings are transplanted into the ground.
• Root cuttings. A laborious method used only when rescuing plants from stem nematodes. Dig out the affected phlox, cut healthy large roots into pieces, 4-7 cm in size. Place these cuttings in a container with sand and keep in a cold, damp basement. They are transferred to a warm place to stimulate growth at the end of winter, gradually accustoming them to light.

Bloom

When phlox bloom, the garden is colored by a sea of ​​various shades - from snow-white to deep purple. You can select varieties and species in such a way that flowering can last for about six months, from May to September.

Flower shape and flowering period

In phlox, tubular flowers end in a wide funnel, diverging into petals. Flowers are collected in a lush spherical inflorescence, there can be about 60-95 of them in each.

The duration of flowering is different for different species and varieties, on average, the process lasts from 16 to 28 days.

Problems, diseases and pests in the flower

Phlox can be attacked by both fungi and viruses. Infections of a viral nature are manifested by deformations of the stems, spots on the leaves and a stop in development. Such diseases are not cured, it is only possible to prevent general infection by the rapid disposal of the affected flower.

Fungi often cause powdery mildew, septoriasis and phomosis. These diseases can be cured by using fungicides - copper preparations, Bordeaux liquid, Fundazol, Rovral.

Of the harmful insects, various caterpillars, nematodes and slugs should be wary. The most dangerous are nematodes that inhabit the roots. The contaminated soil must be treated with nematicides at least 3 times a season. Actellic, phosphamide, mercaptophos, lindane can be used.

Popular species, varieties

Phloxes are divided into groups according to their appearance.

Groundcover phlox

They differ from others in creeping shoots, covering large areas when growing. The most famous species are phlox subulate, star-shaped, Douglas and snow.

This group blooms earlier than others - already in the month of May.

Loose phlox

A transitional form from carpet flowers to bush flowers, they have undersized woody branches and rather large leaves. Bloom begins 8-16 days after ground cover.

Hardy Canadian (splayed) phlox is commonly grown. Low lush bushes during flowering are covered with many flowers of lilac and blue shades.

Phlox Drummond

Wonderful annual phlox, actively multiplying by self-seeding. Very persistent and undemanding look. Blooms from June until frost.

Bush forms

Tall perennial phlox with erect stems. Among them, the most beloved are mountain and spotted species, which bloom from mid-summer.

Panicled phlox

The most spectacular and popular perennial that adorns the garden with round or pyramidal inflorescences, emitting a wonderful aroma. Blooms later than other species.

Differs in a huge assortment of varieties. Among them are very popular "Aurora", "Alyonushka", "Bogatyr", "Snow White", "Viking", "Europe", "Coral" and many others.

Difficulties in growing a plant. Useful Tips

• If you water phlox with ice water in the very heat or overfeed with nitrogen, then you can cause the most common problem of flowers - cracking of their shoots.
• You can cover with mulch from the second half of October! If you mulch earlier, dormant buds will wake up and grow. This will weaken and freeze the plants.

Answers to readers' questions

What is the lifespan of a plant?

Perennial varieties can live for over 5 years, depending on the growing conditions and care.

Why doesn't the flower bloom?

Either the phlox is planted in a heavy, always damp substrate, or it lacks the sun.

Why do the leaves turn yellow and dry?

This problem occurs when the atmosphere is too hot and dry. It is recommended to spray the plant in the evenings.

Flower care in winter.

Preparation for wintering consists in proper feeding with phosphorus and sheltering the plants. Keep in mind that phlox should rest well watered and well fed. Dying stems need to be cut off, and the root system should be covered with mulch.

These beautiful, scented flowers came to Europe from North America over three centuries ago. And then the outstanding Swedish scientist Karl Linnaeus gave them the botanical name Phlox. And in the old days in Russia, lush multi-colored phloxes were called "calico".

Translated from Greek, Phlox means "flame", "fire". It is also translated into the language of flowers as "the flame of your lips." The Greek origin of the name of phlox flowers is explained by a beautiful legend. Allegedly, when Odysseus and the Argonauts left the dungeon of the god Hades, they threw out their burning torches on the ground. Their flame did not die out, but turned into bright flowers, sprouted, as if reminding of courageous travelers.

Description of the flower

Today there are more than 50 species of phlox, and apart from the one-year-old Drummond, they are all perennial. In most of them, these are only underground parts (roots, rhizomes), and aboveground stems, leaves die off at the end of the growing season. However, there are also evergreens with long-lived both parts.

Today in ornamental gardening, floriculture, landscape construction, only up to 20 types of these flowers are used. You can admire the bright lush flowering of different varieties for almost six months: from early spring, all summer until late autumn. Therefore, it is difficult to disagree with the German gardener, philosopher Karl Forster that "a garden without phlox is nonsense."

Depending on the habitat of wild phlox species, their appearance, ecological, morphological features may differ. All these plants with straight stiff stems, fragrant flowers of various colors, petal shapes are divided into 3 groups:

1. Bush with such subgroups as: tall and short. Their flowers are distinguished by the absence of grooves, cuts at the edges of the corolla petals.

Among the tall, reaching a height of up to 180 cm, there are paniculate, spotted, smooth and a number of others. They present flowers from early autumn and early summer. They are usually placed in the background of flower arrangements.

Stunted ones grow up to only 60 cm, bloom from late spring to early summer. In this subgroup, thick-leaved (Caroline), hairy, adorable, oval Delilah, Candy Twist, etc. are popular. They give a special charm to any composition when placed in the foreground.

2. Groundcover (creeping) are the very first to bloom in spring from April-May or early summer. Phloxes of Douglas, Hood, subulate, dwarf, snowy, star-shaped, etc. are very common here. They are great for retaining walls, ridges, alpine slides.

3. Loose turfas intermediate between the first two. They have flowers from late May or early June. The difference from creeping varieties is the ability to rise above the soil up to 30 cm during flowering. These include spreading phlox, escaping.

Along with this general classification, breeders continue to create interspecific hybrids, varieties. Some of them have already started to organize separate groups.

Perennial phlox varieties with photos

When choosing a plant, we advise you to focus both on its height and on the colors of numerous varieties. There are more than 1,500 of them. It is not surprising that they are assigned very sonorous names that are associated with certain images and themes. We invite you to get acquainted with some of them:

• Alyonushka - loose sod phlox has a straight stem up to 50 cm high. Its delicate pale pink flowers about 4 cm in diameter are collected in a dense inflorescence with a volume of 16x18 cm. It blooms for more than 30 days from mid-July. It has good resistance to many diseases.

• Appassionata with a medium-sized stem up to 75 cm and a dense pyramidal inflorescence (17x12 cm), lilac-purple with a carmine eye. The size of one flower reaches 4 cm. This bushy variety acquires special splendor during flowering from mid-July for 30-37 days.

• Snow White contrary to the name, it has only white flowers, and the tube and bud are painted in a slightly pinkish tone. During flowering from the end of July for more than a month, the bush seems to be covered with a continuous delicate white-pink foam. It is located on the shoots of a high straight stem up to 80 cm high. This variety is not afraid of fungal diseases.

• Boni Maid grows up to 70 cm with a rounded dense inflorescence. One flower can reach a size of more than 4 cm. The delicate palette of blue or lilac colors, the amazing aroma of these flowers, are especially attractive.

  Phlox paniculata - grade "Bonnie Maid"

• West has a solid height of up to 1.5 m, strong stems which are not prone to lodging. And its medium-sized dark crimson flowers with a diameter of only up to 2 cm are densely placed on bushy shoots. This perennial is quite disease resistant.

• Europe has straight stems, bright white flowers up to 4 cm in diameter with a carmine eye. They decorate plants for just over a month, starting from the first days of July. They densely fill quite large inflorescences measuring 12x20 cm.

• Dusk has a stem up to 70 cm tall and rather large (up to 4 cm in diameter) unlike other phlox flowers. The edges of their petals are strongly curved forward. The inflorescences, with their violet-purple color, seem to be associated with lush caps slightly touched by fog or light haze.

The choice of planting material

When buying planting material, you need to pay attention to the presence of up to 5 correctly colored shoots, the length of which reaches about 6 cm. They should have a shiny surface and healthy roots shortened to 15 cm.

For planting perennial phlox, healthy plants with greenish, coarse skin and leaves intact by pests are selected.Future seedlings should have 2-3 thickened stems, large buds formed at their bases.

Even before digging, the length of the stems of adult plants is cut in half. After carefully removing the bush, cleaning it from the ground, the root system is divided into several parts.

Cutting off rhizomes for future seedlings can be done by hand, with a sharp shovel or knife. In this case, it is important not to damage the vegetative buds located at the base of the stem. Each young bush should have at least 8 buds, from which new shoots will grow. And the root can die without them.

You should pay attention to the good development of the root system, the length of the root is no more than 15 cm. If necessary, the rhizomes can only be shortened by one third with a pruner.

Harvesting of planting material can be carried out even from the moment of emergence. To do this, a young shoot is carefully broken out on a healthy bush, along with part of its rhizome. On a handle with two internodes, the cut is made under the lower and higher than the upper one by 5-7 cm.

Reproduction

Perennial phlox can be grown using vegetative methods and, like annuals from seeds. Most often, planting materials are chosen for the reproduction of perennial phloxes thanks to the first, namely:

• Dividing the bush is considered the least laborious way. It allows you to use the plant for a new planting, while helping to rejuvenate the old bush of your favorite variety. "Delenka" is used when the age of the bush reaches 3-4 years at any time of the year. This method consists in digging it up, dividing it into parts, sprinkling the formed hole with fertile soil. Plants separated in this way with straightened roots are planted in another place with a depth of 3 cm in the soil.

• Layers are made by bending the stem to the ground until flowering. Then it is fixed along the entire length and earthed up with peat with humus. By autumn, this sprouted shoot of it is separated from the "native" bush, transplanted to the chosen place.

Many people practice the use of spring growth shoots... They are carefully broken out with a "heel" from strongly thickened bushes at the very base of the stem. For better rooting, the shoots are first planted in a greenhouse or an insulated greenhouse, since in open ground this process is very slow. From the end of May - beginning of June, after regular watering with warm, settled water, shoots with formed roots are planted at the selected site of the site.

Cuttings carried out during the entire growing season of the plant. It begins when the shoot reaches 5 cm and ends before the end of September. Spring and summer cuttings take root most successfully.

So in May-June, you can cut off small pieces of young shoots with two pairs of leaves. These cuttings are placed in moist soil and covered with a jar until rooting is complete.

The method of grafting is advisable if it is necessary to multiply a large number of phloxes.

Reproduction of phlox: video

When is it better to plant phlox - in spring or autumn

According to experienced florists, the most favorable time for transplanting is early spring (late April - early May).

Autumn planting is quite acceptable during the period of bud laying on the basal necks from the end of August, but not later than the first days of September.

If during off-hours "it is impossible, but really want to", then it is better not to plant, but to dig the chosen plant to a depth of loose soil up to 25 cm. On the eve of cold weather, this place is mulched or covered with dense material.

When planting in autumn, for better rooting, it is necessary to pre-prune the upper part of the bushes. During flowering, phlox can also be transplanted, provided that it is carefully dug up with a clod of earth and further regular watering.

It is important to remember that a plant can take root, fully develop and grow without disease only if the root system is not over-dried.But the summer transplantation of these plants should be avoided. At this time, they grow very slowly, they can dry out, attacked by pests.

Landing

Perennial phloxes can be planted both in autumn and spring. The key to the duration, lush flowering of phloxes is the correct choice of the time and place of their planting, soil cover, agricultural techniques.

The main requirement for proper planting is soil fertility per shovel bayonet. This is due to the shallow occurrence (up to 30 cm) of a powerful, branched root system and the location of the bulk of its nutrients up to 20 cm from the soil surface.

Where to plant

The planting site should be free of moisture stagnation. Therefore, it is better not to choose damp, low-lying areas of the plots. The best option is the flower beds slightly raised in relation to the surface of the site. Despite their light-requiring, they are more like a slight partial shade than bright sunlight or thick shade.

The place should not be "open to all winds", especially during wintering. Therefore, it is not recommended to plant phlox on the north side. Planting flowers in the shade of large trees should also be avoided due to unequal forces in the struggle for light, moisture, nutrients.

When determining the "place of residence" of plants when planting, it is important to take into account their growth, color range, harmonious combination with other plants.

Soil preparation

Site selection also requires attention to the composition of the soil. For planting phlox, light soil with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction is suitable. If the soil is too acidic in places suitable for it, then it is neutralized with quicklime (200 g per 1 m²).

Clay soil is mixed with sand, and sandy soil with peat. Loamy soil can be "refined" by mixing it with mature humus, ash, bone meal in proportions of 100 g per 1 m². Such "intervention in nature" + regular moderate feeding will make phlox cultivation effective.

Landing features

Planting perennial and annual phloxes is not much different with the exception of some nuances. So, during spring planting, the distance between perennials should be somewhat larger than that of annuals, since the former will grow over the years.

So, for example, between low-growing, ground cover phloxes, a distance between bushes of up to 40 cm is observed.For varieties with an average height, it should be up to 50 cm, and tall ones - at least 70 cm.Along with this, after planting, the soil around them is certainly mulched (dry humus , peat, small shavings, chopped straw, etc.).

On the eve of the onset of winter, phloxes should not be planted, but only dug to a depth of 25 cm. In this case, the place should be protected from the winter wind, and the snow should cover them. And after the soil freezes, the dug-in flowers must be covered with dry foliage or peat.

Phlox that have managed to grow up after spring cuttings are planted in the fall in open ground in a permanent place. In the absence of sufficient moisture, rains, seedlings are watered abundantly 2-3 times weekly for 14 days. The soil around them is loosened, mulched.

Cloudy daytime or in the evening is suitable for planting perennials.

Growing annual phlox from seeds

Growing perennial phlox from seeds

This method of cultivation can be the result of "self-seeding" of seeds that have fallen from plants or by planting pre-harvested seeds. In the second case, the seeds are harvested in the fall before the opening of the brown seed pods, the wilting of all the foliage.

A sign of mature seeds is their dense structure of dark green color, a characteristic crackle when pressed. Consideration should be given to the need for frequent collection due to uneven ripening. After collecting, cleaning from husks, the remnants of the leaves, the finished seed material is immediately laid in the prepared soil (September-early November).

As a result of winter natural selection, the fittest survive and begin to germinate when the snow melts. In mid-May, seedlings can be planted in their designated places, taking into account the preferences of the soil composition.

Some gardeners consider the optimal timing of sowing seeds from November to January (sowing before winter). To do this, a previously prepared flower bed or garden bed is cleared of the first snow. Then, seeds are laid out on their surface with a distance of up to 5 cm from each other, sprinkled on top with a layer of up to 1 cm with garden soil and snow. The experience of this simple method of planting in open ground shows up to 70% germination, previously lush flowering.

Growing phlox seedlings in these ways allows you to get quite resistant plants by diving densely sprouted seeds in the open field. Such seedlings can be planted at the desired interval and admire the flowers already in the first year of their life.

Sowing at home

When growing seedlings in indoor conditions, perennial phloxes need seed preparation for germination (stratification). To do this, after planting in a container with a substrate, they are kept for 15-20 days at room temperature and in the cold not higher than +4 ° C.

After staying in low temperature conditions, the container is placed in a bright place, separated from the heating devices by a screen. Here the air should be warmed up to the optimum for seed germination not higher than +12 ° C.

After they have sprouted, the period of traditional care for phlox seedlings begins. This is uniformity of lighting, regular watering-spraying, shelter, condensation removal, airing, picking.

Landing in the ground

It begins when the seedlings have 4-6 true leaves. They are seated at a distance of 20 cm in a pre-selected place. In this case, the soil between still small phloxes must be mulched at least with mown grass without seeds.

This will keep the soil moist, soft, and weed-free. An indispensable type of care for growing phlox is careful loosening of the earth, weeding, watering, feeding.

How to grow perennial phlox from seeds: video

Perennial phlox care in summer

It consists in regular watering (morning, evening) at the root. After the flowers get stronger, to increase the bushiness, they are pinched over 4-5 pairs of leaves. During the active flowering of phlox from July to September, all wilting inflorescences should be removed. This favors the appearance of new peduncles in the leaf axils.

During the growth period, perennials need 5 times fertilization, while annuals need 4 times. Thanks to the latter, top dressing helps the formation of full-fledged seeds in boxes.

With proper care, feeding, the flowers will be thanked by growing for at least 7 years without losing decorativeness.

Diseases and pests

They are not overwhelmed by phlox. However, with poor care, planting in the shade, thickened plantings, powdery mildew is possible. It infects stems and leaves.

Another very unpleasant pest is the nematode (roundworms). Neighbors can help here: marigolds, nasturtium, calendula.

How to transplant phlox: video

How to master a neglected area Planting phlox: video

An attentive attitude to flowers, adherence to the rules of agricultural technology will allow you to enjoy the colorfulness and aroma of phlox annually.