What are the best tomatoes to grow for Transbaikalia?

The weather in Transbaikalia is also very uncomfortable, frosts here can happen at the end of June and again make themselves felt in August. But here, too, skill and sharpness help. So, V. Ya. Vtorushin from Chita grows each tomato stem on two root systems. To do this, he puts two pots with seedlings next to each other. In the upper third of the stems, he carefully cuts the skin and connects the plants with braid (Fig. 1). It turns out like grafting one stem to another.

Before planting the seedlings, the braid is removed, the weaker stem is cut off above the graft. It turns out "one plant on two roots." Planting plants on a ridge after recurrent frosts have passed. The bush does not get sick and grows smoothly. The planting holes fall asleep gradually, 5 cm per week.

During the period of increased growth and fruiting, Vladimir Yakovlevich gives top dressing from nitrogen and potash fertilizers, and in the last dressing he pours a glass of wood ash under each bush. Combine all dressings by irrigation with water heated in the sun. Pours it at the root, trying not to wet the plant itself.

When the plants are sufficiently huddled, the gardener switches to irrigation irrigation ditches, that is, he hides the bushes as high as possible, leaving narrow grooves between them, where he pours water. After watering, you do not need to loosen the soil, since in the main root zone it remains loose, and the water flows along the grooves. By the time the fruits ripen, the lower layer of leaves must be removed in order to improve air exchange inside the bush. This is necessary to prevent fungal diseases. Removing the lower leaves does not affect the yield. If, nevertheless, a fungal disease of tomatoes is detected, then the gardener fights against it with the help of copper sulfate or an extract from wood ash (10 g of ash per liter of water). Watering is carried out twice.

Rice. 1. So connect two stems to get a graft.

Plants on two roots bear fruit earlier than usual. Race - three weeks! Since August, residents of Chita begin to grow tomatoes in rooms.

How to get large fruits of tomatoes

Mulching greatly contributes to the growth of tomatoes, reduces labor costs for watering and loosening.

For mulching the soil, you can use rotted manure or peat. Mulch immediately after planting seedlings and before watering and rains have time to compact the soil. Mulching is even more important for bush tomatoes than for tall ones. The fruits of bush tomatoes often come into contact with the soil or become contaminated with it during heavy rainfall. Chopped straw mulch prevents this better than manure or peat.

Tomatoes grow well on any warm, humus-rich, medium-sized soil that has not been fertilized with fresh manure and always in open sunny areas. Although tomatoes do well on soils that have recently been fertilized with manure, it is better to use plots that have not received manure. You should not rush to add lime. Tomatoes are very sensitive to chlorine. Although tomatoes do not suffer from soil fatigue and therefore they can be grown in the same place for several years, the main thing is that the soil is not infected with late blight.

Regular feeding allows you to get very large tomato fruits. Top dressing begins two weeks after planting the seedlings. To prevent plants from forming a large vegetative mass without benefit, apply a complete fertilizer with a ratio of basic nutrients (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium) 1: 1: 1.The easiest way to apply top dressing is superficially dry. Fertilizers are evenly scattered between the plants on the mulch, and when watering they dissolve it, thus delivering it to the roots. Top dressing is repeated every two weeks until mid-August. Each time, no more than 20 g of fertilizer is applied per 1 square meter.

In tall tomatoes, stepchildren should be removed regularly and the plants should be tied to a support. The stepsons do not remove with a knife, but with their fingers; this avoids damage to the main shoot. Stepsons develop at the junction of the leaf with the main stem. When removing stepchildren, the sheet must not be damaged either. The stepsons are removed as soon as they can be grasped with their fingers. To tie the stem to the support, use fairly wide materials (tape, twine), because thin threads and ropes cut through the stems. When tying, the possible thickening of the stem is taken into account and therefore not tied too tight.

At the end of August, the tops of the main shoots are removed, since the fruits that develop later will no longer have time to ripen, but will only take away the nutrients from the already formed fruits.

Pinching the top of the plant should be over the brush, the flowers of which have already opened. It is necessary to leave at least one more leaf above this brush, otherwise the fruits will not be tied on it. Pinching can speed up the development of the fruits remaining on the plant. After pinching, you need to continue to monitor so that stepsons do not appear.

Rot of the tops and fruits (late blight) is a very dangerous disease of tomatoes, most often it appears in a rainy summer. The leaves are covered with brown spots and die off. Brown and even black spots form on the fruits, and they rot and crack. Affected fruits become poisonous and inedible. Late blight can easily spread to potatoes.

Prevention measures are very simple: first of all, tomatoes should be planted in warm, sunny, open, well-ventilated areas. It is advisable to spray the plants with copper-containing preparations for preventive purposes, but the fruits after such treatment must be washed before use. Affected plants must be removed and burned immediately.

Related entries:

List of vegetable varieties that have been zoned and recommended in Chita region according to the catalog for 1967.

Chita regionZones of the region and distribution by zones of administrative districtsI. Mountain taiga... Districts: Krasnochikoisky, Petrovsk-Zabaikalsky. Sretensky (northeastern part) and Shelopuginsky (northeastern part).

II. Forest-steppe... Districts: Baleisky, Borzinsky (north-eastern part), Kalgan (north-eastern part), Karymsky, Nerchinsky, Sretensky (without the north-eastern part), Uletovsky, Chernyshevsky, Chita, Shelopuginsky (without the north-eastern part) and Shilkinsky.
III. Stepnaya... Districts: Aginsky, Akshinsky, Borzinsky (without the northeastern part), Duldurginsky, Zabaikalsky, Kalgan (without the northeastern part), Kyrinsky, Mogoytuisky, Olovyanninsky, Ononsky and Priargunsky.
IV. Northern taiga... Districts: Kalarsky, Mogochineky, Tungiro-Olekminsky and Tungokochensky.

Varietal zoning by crops
Winter rye... By region: for areas with snow cover - local Zhitkinskaya.

Spring wheat... Zone I: early ripening East; mid-season - Onokhoiskaya 4; without primary seed production - Lutescens 62. Zone II: a) for taiga and subtaiga parts of regions - early ripening East; mid-season - Onokhoiskaya 4, Lutescens 758 and Kharkovskaya 46; b) for the rest of the districts - early maturing - East; mid-season - Onokhoiskaya 4, Lutescens 758 and Kharkovskaya 46; without primary seed production - Lutescens 62. Zone III: early maturing - East; mid-season - Onokhoiskaya 4, Lutescens 758, Kharkovskaya 46; without primary seed production - Lutescens 62. Zone IV: early maturing - East.

Oats: Zone I: a) for Krasnochikoisky and Petrovsk-Zabaikalsky regions - Onokhoisky 547, Khibiny 2; b) for Shelopuginsky and Sretensky (northeastern parts of the districts) - Golden rain, Kyuto, Khibiny 2. Zone II: Kyuto, Golden rain, Zones III and IV: Golden rain.

Spring barley... By region: Chervonets; in addition, for Krasnochikoisky and Petrovsk-Zabaikalsky regions of zone I - Onokhoisky 566; for zone III - Wiener.

Spring rye... By region: Onokhoiskaya.

Millet... Zones I, II and III: Omsk 9.

Buckwheat... Zones I, II and III: Buryat local.

Peas... Zones I, II and III: Tulunsky green, Harvest.

Mustard... For mustard growing areas: Volgogradskaya 189/191.

Oil flax... Zone I: for areas of oil flax cultivation - Sibiryak.

Potato... Zone I: early ripening - Priekulsky early (crustacean), Phalensky (crustacean), Murmansk (crustacean); mid-season - without primary seed production - Majestic (crustacean); medium late - Berlichingen (crustacean). Zone II: early ripening - Early Priekulsky, Falensky; mid-early - Volzhanin; mid-season - without primary seed production - Majestic; mid-late - Berlichingen. Zone III: early ripening - Early Priekulsky, Falensky; mid-early - Volzhanin; mid-late - Berlichingen. Zone IV: early ripening - Early Priekulsky, Falensky, Murmansk; mid-late - Berlichingen.

White cabbage... In the region: early ripening - Number one Gribovskiy 147; Kuusiku Varayans; mid-early - Kolkhoz Woman 2001, Stakhanovka 1513; mid-season - Slava Gribovskaya 231; mid-late - Gift, Belorusskaya 455; in addition, for zone I - mid-season - Slava 1305.

Red cabbage... Area: Stone Head 447.

Cauliflower... By region: Early Gribovskaya 1355.

Cucumbers... In the region: Muromsky 36, Vyaznikovsky 37, Rzhavsky local, Altai early 166; in addition, for zones II and III - Unbearable 40.

Tomatoes... In the region: Alpatieva 905-a, Gruntovy Gribovskiy 1180; in addition, for zone I - Siberian early ripening.

Onions on a turnip... By region: crop from the sample - local Bessonovsky and other best local varieties; two-year culture from sevka - Pogarsky local improved, Bessonovsky and Strigunovsky local; in addition, for zone I - Eastern; annual culture from seedlings - Annual Siberian, Eastern, Kaba, Strigunovsky local.

Bow on a green feather... By area: batun, chives.

Garlic... By region: the best local varieties.

Table carrot... In the area: Nantes 4, Chantenay 2461.

Table beet... By region: Egyptian flat, Bordeaux 237, Siberian flat 167/367.

Turnip... In the region: Petrovskaya 1, Milanskaya white red-headed 283; in addition, for the IV zone - Grobovskaya local.

Dining rutabaga... By region: Krasnoselskaya.

Radish... By region: Virovsky pink.

Sugar peas... By area: Henry 15, Inexhaustible 195.

Shelling peas... By region: Maisky 13, Winner G-33.

Vegetable beans... By region: Sugar Triumph 764.

Beans... By region: Russian blacks.

Pumpkin... By region: Mozoleevskaya 49.

Corn... In the region: early maturing - Voronezh 80; mid-early - hybrids Bukovinsky 3, Dneprovsky 56 (Dneprovsky 56T).

Vika... Zones I, II and III: Kamalinskaya 611.

Kale... By area: Brain green siverskaya.

Alfalfa. By region: Zabaikalka, Onokhoiskaya 6.

Wheat grass rootless... For areas of cultivation: Chita local.

Siberian hair... By region: Guran.

Fodder carrots... By region: Guérande, Chantenay 2461.

Fodder beet... Zones II and III: Eckendorf Yellow, Semi-Sugar White.

Fodder rutabaga. By region: Krasnoselskaya local, Swedish.

Turnips... By region: Ostersundomsky.

Vegetables

In addition, we are talking about growing tomatoes in Transbaikalia, where the frost-free period lasts only two months - from mid-June to mid-August.

In stagnant years in Russia, up to 30% of vegetable products were grown in summer cottages and household plots. Hundreds of thousands of workers and employees rushed to the dacha on Sundays and holidays, so that, having rested mentally, to work there for the good of the Fatherland and their own belly. For the inhabitants of enlightened Europe, such a craving for additional work was not understandable, and they used to buy vegetables in the store.

Nevertheless, every self-respecting Soviet citizen tried to acquire a summer cottage on which he grew all the necessary vegetable products for his family. The dacha is still a good help for many Russians in the family budget, but for a different reason, when socialism ended and the capitalism that replaced it in no way brought us closer to enlightened Europe.

Transbaikalia is a zone of risky farming, so many vegetable growers grow vegetables in greenhouses and hotbeds in order to timely protect plants from late or early frosts. In greenhouses and hotbeds, tomatoes, cucumbers, eggplants, peppers, watermelons, melons and other exotic and vitamin products are grown, which housewives harvest in large quantities for the winter in the form of various pickles and marinades.

In my family, the dacha belonged to my mother-in-law, and therefore, not being the owner of the land plot, I allowed myself to combine “business with pleasure” and was busy not only with physical labor, but also with intellectual labor. At the dacha, I conducted various experiments, and then the neighbors came to see what a meter-long cucumber was sticking out of the greenhouse (they had not yet heard of Lagenaria), or to take the tomato they liked for seeds.

About 30-40 years ago, a tomato tree was grown in Japan, information about which was published in various magazines. The tree was grown in hydroponics using special computer technology, which regulated the modes of drip irrigation, lighting, air mode and other necessary manipulations. I was interested in the very fact of growing such a tree.

It is very difficult to grow a tomato tree in an ordinary greenhouse with a seasonal turnover, so first of all I started solving the issue of forming a bush on a trellis. For this I chose the "exotic" for Siberia tall varieties of tomatoes "Wonder of the World", "Lemon-Liana", "Kron-Prince", which can reach a height of five meters. But, as it turned out, we are not in Japan and the tomato trees formed in my greenhouse were left without the expected harvest.

The Japanese grew a tomato with an ordinary flower cluster, with single fruits, tearing off excess flowers from the brush, but on my plants, the flower clusters were of a grape type with two to three dozen ovaries. And by September on my "trees", naturally, only two-thirds of the ovaries on the two lower brushes had matured. But you had to see what kind of brushes they were! On them hung up to 20 tomatoes, an average size of a small chicken egg.

The next year, only two bushes of the "Wonder of the World" variety participated in the experiment, which I decided to grow with a small margin on three and four roots, using one of the selection methods - grafting. This grafting was carried out in the simplest way and consisted of splicing two nearby growing plants, which dive side by side in one container (a seedling cup).

When the fourth leaf appeared in the tomato seedlings, and she herself grew to a height of about 30 cm, I cut the stems by one quarter with a razor blade (cut length from 2 to 3 cm) and, joining the two plants together, wrapped them with a strip of fabric. Then the grafting site was slightly weakened as the seedlings grew. A month before planting the seedlings in the ground, I cut off the second stem and repeated the grafting on the twinned plants.

From the available planting material, two of the strongest and most developed plants with three and four roots were selected, the second stems of which were removed after planting in the greenhouse. Then he was already growing on a trellis, using his usual agricultural techniques and without deepening the grafted additional root system into the soil. On three roots, he grew a plant in three stems, and with four roots, in four stems.

By the fall, my "tree" had a rather impressive appearance, when hanging clusters of reddening tomatoes aroused respect from everyone who had the opportunity to observe them.I did not begin to measure the resulting harvest, it was a pity to spoil the brushes, on which were hanging hundreds of one and a half fruits with an average diameter of 4-5 centimeters, most likely there were more of them than a bucket.

I no longer did such experiments, continuing to grow vegetables in the usual way. Exotics is for the soul and to show children the unusual properties of plants. I could easily get the same bucket of tomatoes, without straining, growing several large-fruited plants on the same area. In Siberia, the harvest of tomatoes per bucket (10 liters) per square meter of the greenhouse is a good result. For a forty square meter greenhouse, getting a 40-bucket tomato crop is more than enough for any family.

It turns out you can.

Bolshakova Galina Sergeevna, a gardener known in Transbaikalia with a 45-year-old, shares a unique way of growing giant tomatoes without a greenhouse.

Favorite variety of tall tomatoes

My husband and I grow tomatoes both in the greenhouse and in the open field. In the open field, they grow in height with us. Our favorite tomato variety is De Barao, cold hardy, shade tolerant and very tall.

We tried to grow it in a greenhouse, but its height (2.7 m at the ridge) was not enough for the plants. They literally "squeezed" the upper glass in the greenhouse roof and "burst out" out.

Reference by topic: Growing tomatoes in warm beds. Tomato trees

Giant site decoration

That's when we decided to grow them outdoors. And for 20 years De Barao has been one of the decorations of our site, growing up to 3.5-3.8 m and more.

The technology for growing giant tomatoes in the open field is somewhat different from growing ordinary varieties of tomatoes.

Sowing giant tomato seeds

Sowing dates for De Barao are early: February 20-25. This allows the seedlings to be planted outdoors at the age of 80 days.

The preparation of the seeds and soil mixture is the same as usual. I sow the seeds to a depth of 1-1.5 cm at a distance of 1.5-2 cm from each other, and between the rows - 5 cm. I fall asleep with soil, do not water.

I put boxes with crops in a warm place (22-23 ° C) and cover with foil.

Temperature for tomato seedlings

When seedlings appear, I put them in the brightest place near the window on a specially installed board and adjust the temperature by covering or opening the heating radiator so that the temperature is 13-15 ° C at night, and 16-18 ° C during the day.

At this temperature, I grow seedlings for 7-10 days, and then I raise the temperature a little: in the daytime up to 18-20 ° С, and at night up to 15-16 ° С.

When preparing large-volume pots, I must add 0.5 tsp to the soil composition. superphosphate. This stimulates the development and formation of the root system. After transplanting, I water the seedlings abundantly until the entire volume of the soil is completely soaked.

Reference by topic: Growing tomatoes from A toya Z

Watering giant tomatoes

In this mode, the seedlings are kept up to 30-35 days old. I water them once every 10 days to prevent them from getting sick with a black leg.

I don’t do top dressing at this time, because there are still enough nutrients in the soil for the normal development of plants.

I water the plants with boiled or settled tap water.

Seedling picking

When 2-3 true leaves appear, I make the first pick.

Before picking, I water the boxes with plants. After absorbing water, I take the plants gently with a fork, trying not to damage the roots.

I transplant pots into pots prepared in advance and poured with a solution of potassium permanganate (0.5 g: 10 l of water) as follows: if the seedlings have not overgrown, then to the previous level, and if they have outgrown, I deepen half of the cotyledon leaves.

After picking, I shade the seedlings for 2-3 days. Once a week I water the grown seedlings abundantly, and with the second watering I do top dressing (2 tablespoons of liquid fertilizer Ideal: Yul water).

Tomatoes: second pick

One of our "secrets" in growing giant tomatoes is the double pick.

3 weeks after the first pick, I transplant the seedlings into other pots, while increasing the amount of nutrition by 3 times, enabling the plants to create a powerful root system for transplantation to a permanent place and slightly delaying the growth of green mass.

I still water once a week.

Top dressing of seedlings

With the second watering, I start feeding. For 10 liters of water I take 1 tbsp. l. superphosphate and potassium sulfate and water at the rate of 1 glass per 1 pot. I form the bushes into 2 stems, removing all other stepchildren.

Thanks to this technology, by the time of planting in open ground, the plants reach a height of 1-1.2 m, form a powerful, well-developed root system and crown.

I plant it in the ground on May 20-25, covering it at night and on cold days.

Preparing the beds under De Barao

Before disembarking, we must specially prepare a bed (1 × 4 m, fence height 20 cm), planting scheme 50 × 50 cm, in a checkerboard pattern.

According to preliminary markings on the garden bed, I make 10 holes with a diameter of 35-40 cm, a depth of 40 cm.In each I pour 1 bucket of humus and dig it up in a hole with the remaining soil, after adding 2 tbsp. l. superphosphate and 1 glass of ash.

I thoroughly mix the soil mixture in the hole, raking it to the edges so that the top of the planted root buds does not go deep, but is only slightly sprinkled with earth when making a hole for watering plants.

Reference by topic: Tomatoes in a simple way: from seed to harvest - gardener's advice

Installation of supports necessary for giant tomatoes

In each hole, we install one pole with a diameter of 30-40 mm, a height of 4 m, deepening it into the hole by 50-60 cm.We plant the tomatoes, do the back sprinkling and arrange the holes around the watering poles, pouring 0.5 buckets of warm into them water.

Important

So that the first ovaries do not fall off on the planted tomatoes, 4-5 days before planting in the ground, I spray them with a boric solution (1 liter of water: 1 g of boric acid).

We do the next watering in 7-10 days, depending on weather conditions.

Considering that the height of the poles for garter tomatoes reaches 3.5 m, in order to prevent the plants from collapsing and to reduce fluctuations under wind loads, at a height of 2 m, we tie the poles together with packing twine with a diameter of 2.5-3 mm.

Since our main task is to grow De-Barao as high as possible and collect the maximum yield, I continue to form them into 2 stems, removing all the side stepchildren.

by the way

In addition to De-Barao, I like such varieties and hybrids as Cosmonaut Volkov, Heart-shaped, Marfa F1, Russian size F1 and varieties of our own selection Galina, Kaskad.

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