What southern trees can be grown in the middle lane?

If you want to dilute the usual row of apple trees, pears, gooseberries and raspberries on your site, take note of our selection of not the most common fruit trees and berry bushes. All of them can be planted in the fall!

September-October for a summer resident is still a "hot" planting season. If by next year you want to diversify the standard fruit and berry "assortment" of the summer resident with not the most popular plants, our article will help you make the right choice. We show rare shrubs and tell you how to grow them in the middle lane.

Apricot

Perhaps the apricot is the most trivial plant on our list. Yes, this is a southern tree. Yes, it often freezes out in the cold winters of the middle zone. But, nevertheless, many gardeners manage to get an excellent harvest every year with frost-resistant apricots: Iceberg, Alyosha, Aquarius, Countess, Lel, Northern Triumph, etc.

The main secret of growing this crop in conditions far from the hot south is the right choice. seats for landing... Be sure to choose a site that is well protected from the winds on the south or southwest side of the garden. Drafts, cold and waterlogging are the main enemies of apricot.

The harvest of apricots can please even in the middle lane

Blooming apricot will decorate any garden

Apricot is considered one of the most common in the middle lane of southern trees.

Soil fertility is not the most important factor when planting an apricot, but for a thermophilic "guest" it is advisable to prepare soil mixture from peat, clay and sand, taken in equal parts. Rotted compost and dolomite flour can also be added here.

They choose a place for planting an apricot and begin to prepare it in the fall in order to plant a seedling at the end of April.

The size of the planting pit should be at least 70 × 70 cm. The apricot is planted so that the root collar of the seedling is a few centimeters below the soil level.

If the groundwater in your area is too close to the soil surface, the usual planting method for apricots will not work. Some experts recommend plant apricot seedlings in earthen mounds with a diameter of 2-3 m and a height of about 1 m. Plus, such a "flower bed" will help protect the tree from waterlogging during snow melting.

• 7 best winter hardy varieties of apricots

  A detailed description with photographs of winter-hardy varieties of apricots that can be grown in central Russia and in the Moscow region.

Despite the fact that the apricot tolerates dry air quite well, regular watering is still important for it. It is imperative to water the tree during planting and transplanting, 2-3 weeks after flowering and about a week before the fruit ripens. Naturally, in abnormal heat, the apricot is watered more often. The watering rate for an adult tree is 40-50 liters of water, in a drought - 70-75 liters.

From the end of July, watering begins to gradually stop, so that the shoots have time to ripen by winter.

Gumi (multiflorous goose)

Gumi (aka many-flowered sucker) is an unusual berry shrub with beautiful silvery leaves and bright red fruits. It is covered with fragrant white flowers in spring, and yields in the first half of August, 4-5 years after planting. The taste of the berries is pleasant, with a slight sourness.

Gumi flowers are bisexual, so ovaries will appear even on a single bush, although it is still preferable to plant at least 2-3 plants nearby.

Planted multiflorous oak tree at the end of April. The place is selected in the same way as for an apricot - warm, not blown by winds, without stagnant water.

When planting, the seedling is buried so that the root collar is 5-8 cm covered with earth.

Another name for gumi is multiflorous goose

Blooming oak multiflorous

Gumi fruit

Considering that this shrub bears fruit on old shoots, it is recommended for the winter. harbor... To do this, the shoots are bent to the ground, fixed with metal brackets and covered with brushwood, burlap, spruce branches or non-woven material.

When covered with a film, gumi can vanish.

Loch multiflorous responds well to mulching with rotted compost.

You can learn more about the rules of mulching in our detailed resource Everything you need to know about mulch.

In constant pruning gumi does not need. It is enough to regularly remove damaged and frozen shoots. Rejuvenating pruning will have to be done only in the 13-15th year of life. For this, every third perennial shoot is cut into a ring.

Loch multiflorous is valuable because it attracts a large number of bees, as well as contributes to the enrichment of the soil with nitrogen... Its root system is superficial, and nitrogen-fixing nodules are located on the roots. A very compelling reason to plant this shrub in your garden!

Dereza Chinese

You, of course, more than once came across information about the almost miraculous properties of the berries of this shrub - goji... Whether they really contribute to weight loss is a controversial issue, but their benefits for the body have been proven by doctors.

Chinese Dereza, or ordinary, is guaranteed to tolerate frosts down to –15 ° C, and according to some reports even up to –25 ° C. If the climate in your area is not sustainable, try grow this shrub in containers, and for the winter to bring to the basement or cellar.

In warm regions, Dereza can be planted in the fall, until early October. In the middle lane, this is only appropriate when growing in containers. If you are going to plant the tree in open ground, it is advisable to wait until the end of April.

Goji is nothing more than an ordinary Dereza

Chinese Dereza blooms almost all season

Dereza fruits are known for their medicinal properties

For landing choose a drained area on the south or southwest side. The type and composition of the soil is not critical.

The size of the planting pit is 50 × 40 cm. A distance of 1.5-2 m should be maintained between the seedlings. Fertilizers are applied for planting: 8 kg of rotted compost (humus and peat), 200 g of superphosphate, 40 g of potassium sulfate and wood ash from calculation for each landing pit.

The seedlings are buried by 5-7 cm. After planting, 30-40 liters of water are poured under each bush, after which the trunks are mulched with peat or humus.

Dereza, which is grown in containers, needs more frequent feeding and watering.

For the formation of ovaries, this shrub does not need pollinating plants, but, as in the case of gumi, when several bushes are planted nearby, the yield of dereza increases.

Dereza is very beautiful - it blooms all season, from late May to October. At the same time, lilac flowers are gradually replaced by oblong red fruits. During the summer, the harvest of berries can be harvested more than 10 times! The most valuable of them are considered to be collected at the end of summer, in August.

Perhaps the only significant drawback of this shrub is thorny shoots.

Duke

The fruit tree with the mysterious name Duke is in fact nothing more than a hybrid obtained by crossing cherry and sweet cherry. Unlike cherry, duke boasts resistance to moniliosis and coccomycosis. It is distinguished from cherries by fruits with a slight sourness.

Duke is a hybrid of cherry and sweet cherry

The first domestic duke hybrid was bred in 1888 by Michurin

Duke's winter hardiness is average. For the middle lane, varieties are best suited Ivanovna, Beauty of the North, Nochka-1, Nochka-2, Beautiful Venyaminova, Spartanka, Miracle cherry.

Nearby will certainly be planted cherry pollinator one of the following varieties: Iput, Red dense, Tyutchevka.

• The best varieties of cherries for the middle zone and the Moscow region

  Is it possible to grow tasty and healthy cherries in the middle lane and the Moscow region? And what are the best varieties for these areas?

Dukeare planted to the sunniest, warmest place in the garden, with a fairly low level of groundwater. These plants do not thrive on acidified soil. Planting is no different from planting cherries and cherries. You can follow the advice of our article Planting a cherry seedling: detailed instructions for a beginner.

If the winter is very cold, the duke may not give a harvest at all, because it blooms and bears fruit on last year's shoots.

Cornel ordinary

Cornel is a spectacular bush-shaped fruit tree. It is interesting for its ultra-early flowering: this tree is covered with a scattering of bright yellow flowers even before the leaves hatch on it. Bloom lasts up to 3 weeks!

The color of dogwood fruits is most often scarlet, but they can be golden, pink and even black.

Unlike the plants listed above, this crop can tolerate slight shading... Shelter for the winter is required only at a young age.

Dogwood is one of the first to bloom in early spring

Dogwood fruits are tasty and healthy

100 g of dogwood fruit contains the average daily intake of vitamin C

Planted dogwood in April, before bud break, or in September - early October, no later than 2-3 weeks before the onset of frost. The size of the planting pit is 80 × 80 cm. After planting, it is necessary to cut out every third shoot on a ring, water the seedlings at the rate of 30-40 liters for each bush and mulch the trunks.

Dogwood grows slowly, but really durable and not capricious. It remains only to puzzle over - why does he remain such a rare guest in our gardens?

Raspberry strawberry

This shrub is also called seductive raspberry. Its fruits really look like strawberries.

Strawberry raspberries can be grown as a hedge

The fruits of this raspberry really look like strawberries.

The seductive raspberry has beautiful jagged leaves

The bushes of this raspberry are short and very thorny.

The height of this shrub usually does not exceed half a meter. It grows quickly and forms curtains, so immediately upon planting it is desirable to limit the rhizome... For example, dig in slate around the perimeter of the landing pit. Otherwise, after a few years, your garden runs the risk of turning into a wild raspberry tree.

• How to plant raspberries in the fall?

  Useful information about the autumn planting of raspberries: timing and technology, care of seedlings.

Strawberry raspberries bloom from June to September, with fruit ripening from July. Unfortunately, there are a lot of thorns on the shoots of this species, and harvesting is not an easy task. For this reason, the shrub is best grown as a hedge. Its beautiful foliage and long flowering make it an excellent ornamental plant.

Medlar

This tree loves mild winters and warm summers, so in the middle lane it are planted in the warmest corner of the garden, and cover young plants for the winter.

The medlar blooms in June with snow-white flowers. Fruits are small - about 3 cm in diameter, colored light brown. They taste sour, frankly, for an amateur. But they contain a large amount of nutrients and improve the condition of blood vessels.

The German medlar can be grown in the middle lane, in contrast to the Japanese medlar

Flowering medlar german

The fruits of this type of medlar should not be eaten immediately after harvest.

By the way, you can't just eat the berries straight from the tree. Medlar fruits can be eaten only after 2-3 weeks of "aging"... To speed up the process, they can be frozen.

Under landing for seedlings of medlar, a hole is dug, a third larger in size than a clod of earth on the rhizome. Fill it with the following soil mixture: leafy earth, humus, turf and sand in equal parts.

Golden currant

Red currants, black currants, white currants - all these shrubs are well known to us. What about golden currants? The irony is that the color of the fruits on the bushes of this species is also quite varied: golden currants can be yellow, black, and red! It all depends on the variety.

This unusual shrub, unlike other currant bushes, can grow up to 2 m in height. The crown has a neat rounded shape. The leaves are similar to gooseberry leaves. In summer, the foliage is yellowish-green, and in autumn it changes color to burgundy-orange. Golden currant blooms with lemon-yellow flowers in late spring - early summer. In this case, flowering lasts up to 3 weeks.

Golden currants are in many ways more like gooseberries than currants.

Golden currants are in many ways more like gooseberries than currants.

Golden currants are in many ways more like gooseberries than currants.

Golden currants are in many ways more like gooseberries than currants.

Berries of golden currant could be mistaken for a gooseberry, if not for the characteristic elongated shape and a "tail" of a dried pistil on one side. They are not sour to taste, unlike other types of currants, they are perfectly stored and transported thanks to their thick skin. From one bush, you can collect about 6 kg of the crop, and golden currant bears fruit for 20 years!

This plant is completely unpretentious: it tolerates return frosts, severe winters, drought, all kinds of "sores", is not afraid of partial shading. The main condition is not to plant a bush on waterlogged clay soils.

For landing dig a hole 50 × 50 cm in size, where 8 kg of rotted manure or compost, 200-300 g of superphosphate and 1.5 cups of ash are introduced. The root collar of the seedling should be buried 5-7 cm below ground level. After planting, the shoots are cut to 5-7 cm above the soil level.

In general, trimming the golden currant is optional, although it treats trimming well. But it can, for example, be formed in the form of a hedge or a low tree.

These facts have not convinced you to plant a few currant bushes on your site? Then here's another one for you: you don't need to cover the bush for the winter! In a word, he will not give you any trouble.

White mulberry

Mulberry is an oriental beauty that requires a place in the sun to maintain good "well-being". But, fortunately, the breeders managed to bring out several varieties that are quite adapted to the climate of the middle zone: White large, Smuglyanka, Black Baroness.

For fruiting, you need plant male and female plants nearby... Also note that the ovaries are formed on the shoots of the last year, therefore pruning worth carrying out without unnecessary fanaticism. It will be enough to remove damaged shoots and shorten healthy ones to give them the desired shape. The procedure is carried out in the spring before bud break, but the air must warm up to at least 10 ° C.

By the way, you can't do without pruning: if you don't "tame" the mulberry, then this "obstinate" can grow up to 12 m in height! Of course, given the slow growth rates, this will not happen in one season. For example, this crop brings its first harvest only in the 8-9th year after planting.

Luckily mulberry can also be grown as an ornamental plant... Therefore, a slow entry into fruiting should not be a problem at all - the tree will "work out" its place in the garden with a spectacular appearance.

White mulberry can reach truly gigantic sizes

White mulberry

White mulberry

White mulberry

Mulberries are small, 2-3 cm long, fleshy, outwardly they resemble raspberries and blackberries. Depending on the variety, mulberries can be white, pink, red or dark-inked.

The skin of the berries is very delicate, so they quickly deteriorate and are stored for no more than 3 days, and even then in the refrigerator. It is advisable to eat them or put them for processing immediately after collection.

Plant mulberry seedlings in September - early October, no later than 2 weeks before the first frost, or in the second half of April. For planting, choose a warm, draft-free, sunny spot in your garden. The depth of the planting pit is at least 70 cm (the roots of the seedling should be freely placed in it, and the root collar should be deepened by about 5 cm).

200 g of superphosphate and 8-10 kg of rotted manure or compost are introduced into each planting pit. After planting, the seedling is watered with several buckets of water and, if necessary, mulched.

Mulberries can be successfully grown from seeds. For this, the seeds are left in the refrigerator for the winter, and in April they are sown in a greenhouse. By autumn, the height of the seedlings will reach 40 cm. Young plants are left for growing in a school until 1-2 years of age.

By the way, another advantage of mulberry is high drought tolerance.

Which of these trees or shrubs grow in your garden? Be sure to tell us in the comments!

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Sometimes you really want to add something new and unusual to your garden! Surprise your neighbors, please yourself, reproduce a piece of a cute southern corner, or just for the sake of sports interest, take and try to grow in a garden near Moscow ... a magnolia or, for example, a catalpa! Manufacturers often provoke us by offering forms of exotic plants with a declared high frost resistance. Which ones can be grown, and which ones are better left in dreams - let's try to figure it out

Exotic plants in central Russia suffer not only from low winter temperatures, but also from thaws, spring melt water and lack of heat in the summer months. And the winter hardiness of a particular culture within a species is quite dependent on the parental specimens - the descendants of Russian plants are significantly superior in this indicator to specimens brought from abroad.

As a rule, exotic plants end the growing season late, and their shoots, which did not have time to lignify, are damaged by autumn frosts, therefore, plants that can easily recover from a stump and bloom on the shoots of the current year are relevant for our climate (if the plant is beautifully flowering, and not decorative leafy) ...

Magnolia

One of the most famous plants in the south - magnolia - turns out to be very successfully cultivated in central Russia. Deciduous species growing in the form of a bush, less often a single-stemmed tree, are best suited for this purpose. Not only attractive fragrant magnolia flowers, but also their rather large elliptical leaves up to 15 cm long, and touchingly delicate buds. One of the earliest flowering magnolias, magnolia stellata, has snow-white flowers up to 10 cm in diameter with many petals, and its decorative forms are pink (Magnolia stellata f. rosea) and Keyskaya (Magnolia stellata f. keiskei) - have pink and purple petals on the outside, respectively.This species blooms long before the leaves bloom, in May, and, as a rule, in the Moscow region does not exceed 1.5 - 2 m in height. Magnolia Cobus (Magnolia kobus) reaches more impressive sizes in our area, up to 5 m in height, blooms a little later, but also without waiting for the leaves to dissolve.

Its northern form (Magnolia kobus var. Borealis) with ivory petals is considered more winter-hardy than the species plant. Magnolia Lebner (Magnolia x loebneri) - a hybrid of magnolia cobus and m. Star-shaped - inherited high growth and winter hardiness from one parent, and lush pink or white flowers from the other.

The plant blooms shortly before the leaves appear and remains in bloom at the time of their dissolution. The flowers are larger than the parent ones - 10-15 cm. One of the most frost-resistant species is Magnolia sieboldii, which in central Russia does not exceed 1.5-2 m in height and blooms after the leaves are dissolved. You can plant several species in the garden at once. magnolias and enjoy their bloom for two months! However, the buds of early-flowering magnolias can be damaged by spring frosts.

Magnolias need abundant watering (2 - 3 buckets per week, in dry summers - more) throughout the growing season, but the plant does not tolerate stagnant moisture.

The soil mixture should be saturated with organic matter and have a pH level close to neutral - as a rule, for this, peat, humus, clay and sand are taken in equal parts. The buds are laid at the ends of the shoots, so pruning is minimal, it consists in removing dry and thickening branches.

Shelter for the winter is important for young, not yet tall 1 - 3-year-old plants. Subsequently, in the fall, the soil of the plant should be mulched with pine bark or chips, foliage or peat. The deadline for top dressing is early August.

Magnolias in the garden are good as tapeworms or a bright accent in a tree and shrub group.

See also: Magnolia - planting and care

Early-flowering magnolia buds can be damaged by spring frost. Magnolias need abundant watering (2 - 3 buckets per week, in dry summers - more) throughout the growing season, but the plant does not tolerate stagnant moisture. The soil mixture should be saturated with organic matter and have a pH level close to neutral - as a rule, for this, peat, humus, clay and sand are taken in equal parts. The buds are laid at the ends of the shoots, so pruning is minimal, it consists in removing dry and thickening branches. Shelter for the winter is important for young, not yet tall 1 - 3-year-old plants. Subsequently, in the fall, the soil of the plant should be mulched with pine bark or chips, foliage or peat. The deadline for top dressing is early August.

Magnolias in the garden are good as tapeworms or a bright accent in a tree and shrub group.

ON A NOTE

All exotics when grown in central Russia should be given a sunny warm place of southern or southwestern exposure, protected from northern and eastern winds, without excessive moisture, with light, well-drained soils, preferably neutral or close to neutral Planting and transplanting is desirable in spring ...

Locust

Of the genus Robinia, the most popular is the white acacia sung in the romance, or robinia pseudoacacia... Its snow-white inflorescences, and openwork spreading crown, and graceful leaves, which retain their green color until they fall, are extremely attractive. In most cases, this is a large, powerful tree, but there are cultivars with yellow-colored foliage, thornless, pink-flowered, of various heights and crown shapes (pyramidal, umbellate, with curved shoots), some of them are not capable of flowering. The plant has a strong root system, which makes it highly drought tolerant.

Two more types of robinia deserve attention - robinia new mexican (Robinia neomexicana) and Robinia Kelsey (Robinia hispida var. kelseyi), in addition to the bushy nature of growth, differing from white acacia in pink color of flowers and longer, with the likelihood of repeated, flowering (Robinia Kelsey). These plants in central Russia, as a rule, do not exceed 5 - 7 m in height and are less winter-hardy than white acacia.

All robinias recover well from the stump, but since flower buds are laid on the shoots of last year, the frozen plant will not be able to bloom in the coming year. __ A sunny location with well-drained light soil will be the key to successful cultivation of Robinia.

It is better to plant it in such a way that the near-trunk circle is located above the soil level, forming a "mound", which will prevent excessive moisture. In the garden, robinia is an excellent specimen at the southern wall of the house, a bright decoration of spring and early summer, but it should be remembered that leaves, fruits, seeds and bark contain substances that are toxic to humans.

Reference by topic: Garden rarities - about some plants rare for the middle lane (issue 2)

Sumac

Extremely interesting and unusual in a garden near Moscow deer-horned sumac, or fluffy (Rhus typhina): openwork umbrella-shaped crown, fiery autumn color of the leaves, and in the presence of male and female plants, there are also red candles of infructescence at the same time. Its large feathery leaves are velvety to the touch, and its brownish shoots are so powerful that they resemble deer antlers. At home, this tree is up to 10–12 m in height, and in central Russia the plant rarely exceeds 4–5 m, most often freezes over and recovers from the root collar. But even in warm climates, regular pruning of the branches is recommended - otherwise, the shoots will be very stretched and bare.

Sumy is good at any time of the year, especially in autumn. He is a wonderful soloist against the background of dark green conifers or deciduous trees that do not have an autumn color. The plant does not differ in durability, after 15 - 20 years it is replaced by a daughter plant.

Catalpa

The exquisite catalpa plant is a low tree (in central Russia, as a rule, not higher than 5-7 m) with a rounded crown and large, wide, pubescent leaves on the underside, erect inflorescences-candles, consisting of large (about 5 cm in diameter) of fragrant flowers, and fruits enclosed in long (30 - 40 cm) thin pods. The most widespread are two types - catalpa magnificent (Catalpa speciosa) and K. bignonium (Catalpa bignonioides)... The second plant has a lower growth rate and a yellowish color of flowers, while the first has snow-white flowers with pink spots in the throat. The magnificent catalpa is considered more winter-hardy, but both species have different decorative forms, among which one can distinguish annually freezing and recovering from the root collar ('Aurea' bignoniform catalpa), and undersized, wintering under snow ('Nana' bignoniform catalpa).

Catalpa is quite demanding on soil fertility - it needs abundant weekly watering (1.5 - 2 buckets per plant). For the winter, the trunk circle should be mulched with leaves, and it is advisable to additionally cover young plants with spruce branches or non-woven material.

Since the catalpa lays flower buds on the shoots of the current year, even when recovering from the stump, it blooms almost every year.

in our climate in late June - early July, when there are practically no other flowering trees and large shrubs. It serves as a bright mid-summer accent, a worthy specimen and a gardener's pride. It is interestingly combined with woody plants with large foliage (various forms of oak, maple), other exotics (velvet, pteleia, magnolia).

See also: Catalpa tree - photo, care, cultivation, as well as reproduction and planting

Velvet

A tree with a spreading picturesque crown, large (over 30 cm long) leaves, in autumn acquiring an orange hue, and thick, with deep cracks, velvety to the touch bark - it is impossible not to recognize it, of course, it is velvet.

In landscaping, only one species is known - Amur velvet (Phellodendron amurense), but promising for the middle band and Sakhalin velvet (Ph. sachalinense)... The second species is distinguished by its smaller growth and predominantly yellow autumn color of the leaves. Under natural conditions, these are large trees up to 20 - 25 m tall, in central Russia they do not exceed 12 - 15 m. The plant has a powerful superficial root system.

Therefore, velvet is not easy to pick up neighbors, and it is good even without them. The plant prefers light soils, light location and high humidity of air and soil. For the winter, it is necessary to mulch the trunk circle, it is advisable to cover young plants with spruce branches or non-woven material. In the event of freezing, the velvet is easily restored from the stump. It should be remembered that deep cracks in the bark appear only with age; in young specimens or constantly recovering, it will be thin, soft, grayish, with fine wrinkles.

Ginkgo

The plant, as if descended from the pages of an ancient book - ginkgo biloba (Ginkgo biloba), - attractive not only for its relict origin, but also for its unusual crown habit, whorled branching, bluish leathery fan-shaped leaves that acquire a golden hue in autumn.

In a favorable climate, this is a powerful tree, in our area, ginkgo barely exceeds 4 m in height and does not bloom. The plant should be given a warm place, preferably shaded on a hot afternoon, with moist fertile soil. For the winter, mulching of the trunk circle is necessary, there is no consensus about the shelter of young plants with non-woven material. In case of freezing, ginkgo recovers well from the stump. The plant forms a narrow crown, by pruning it can be given a denser shape, but decorative forms with a compact rounded, pyramidal or weeping crown have been derived (‘Pendula’, ‘Saint Cloud’, Tremonia ’,‘ Mariken ’,‘ Saratoga ’,‘ Troll ’), there are also cultivars with decoratively painted foliage (Ginkgo biloba f. aurea, Ginkgo biloba f. variegata).

ON A NOTE

Ginkgo is so peculiar and extraordinary that it is not easy for him to find partners. The plant looks good in a specimen planting, it is interesting in combination with crops, whose leaves or needles are painted in a bluish or silvery color.

Tamarix and myrikaria

Two close relatives - tamarix and myrikaria - are unusual and extravagant, their bluish shoots in a non-flowering state resemble a juniper, and in plant color represent a pink cloud. Each of these shrubs is formed by thin, low-branched shoots, the main differences are that the leaf-scales in myrikaria are larger than in tamarix, the flowers of the first are collected in spike-shaped panicles and bloom sequentially. Tamarix, on the other hand, is extremely good even during the budding period, as if showered with pink sparks-beads, and at the time of flowering, it dissolves all the flowers at once in spreading panicles.

Of the tamariks, the most stable and promising are low frost-resistant species blooming on the shoots of the current year - tamarix elegant (Tamarix gracilis), tamarix loose (Tamarix laxa), tamarix branched (Tamarix ramosissima), tamarix Gogenaker (Tamarix hohenackeri) and their varieties, differing in size and color of flowers. As a rule, in the middle lane they do not exceed 2 m in height. Even these species can freeze to the level of snow cover, but recover rather quickly and bloom regularly.

Tamariks cut their hair well; early spring is optimal for this. When choosing a planting site, it must be remembered that they are light-requiring and drought-resistant, preferring light loamy soils. In our climate, these plants do not have enough heat for full maturation and lignification of the shoots, and thaws are also dangerous for them. As a rule, it is not recommended to cover tamariks, but mulching the trunk circle with peat or humus is good for them.

A good alternative to the whimsical tamarix in central Russia can be myricaria foxtail (Myricaria alopecuroides), less graceful and neat, but almost painlessly tolerates even harsh winters. However, there is some information about the freezing of myrikaria to the level of the snow cover, in order to avoid which it is recommended to bend its shoots to the ground.

But, if you carry out annual pruning of shoots at a height of 40 - 50 cm immediately after flowering, the plant will not only be covered with snow, but will also acquire a dense and neat bush shape. Flowering lasts from mid-May to late July. During dry periods, myrikaria needs abundant watering. The plant is responsive to top dressing and mulching of the trunk circle with peat or humus, which prevents overheating and drying out of the topsoil.

In the garden, myrikaria, formed in the form of a ball, will harmoniously complement coniferous compositions, in a group planting it will successfully match shrubs with a bare bottom, it can become an accent against the background of stones or purple ground cover perennials, it is interesting to combine with pink-flowered shrubs and large perennials.

See also: Rare plants for central Russia - robinia, wisteria and acacia

Pteley

Three-leafed ptelea (Ptelea trifoliata) in the middle zone of Russia is a shrub or small tree up to 3.5 m in height with a rounded (tent-like) crown formed by sparse shoots.

The plant is very decorative thanks to the dense, leathery trifoliate leaves, which acquire a beautiful honey color in autumn, and the abundant, lion-like elm-like fruits. Its medium-sized yellowish flowers are fragrant and attract bees. Young shoots are vulnerable, they are damaged by the first frosts, but in the spring the plant is successfully restored. In dry weather, the three-leaf plant needs watering.

In the garden, it is good as a bright accent, but the bare bottom of the shrub should be stably lined with decorative perennials or undersized shrubs (spirea, Thunberg barberry).

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Below are other entries on the topic "Cottage and garden - do it yourself"

How to cut shrubs correctly: Cutting and shaping shrubs - ... Do-it-yourself decorative flower bed: How to make a decorative one with your own hands ... Pruning raspberries and currants - master class: Regular pruning of currants and raspberries More ... Boxwood - care and reproduction: How boxwood is propagated and why ... Varieties Dahlias with dark leaves: Dahlias with dark foliage GEORGINS WITH ... Broad-leaved anemonopsis (large-leaved) (photo) planting in the garden: Growing broad-leaved anemonopsis Beautiful bush of anemonopsis ... Why does Benjamin's ficus shed its leaves ?: Ficus Benjamin leaves fall off ...

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By purchasing fruit trees and shrubs for a garden plot, its owner lays the foundation for truly strategic plantings. For many years to come, they determine the appearance of the territory adjacent to the house, and with proper care they become the main source of fruit crops.

What fruit and berry crops are most often of interest to gardeners? How to arrange the plants you like on the site and find the right neighborhood for them?

Fruit trees and shrubs: photos and names of popular crops

Due to the length of the country, spread over several natural zones at once, it is almost impossible to designate a single list of trees and shrubs. And yet there are species for which gardeners are sure to try to find a suitable place. Photos and names of these fruit trees and shrubs are well known even to those who are far from gardening.

Among fruit trees, the undisputed leaders are apple trees of different varieties and ripening periods. They are followed by pears and the most common stone fruits: cherries and plums.

Fruit and berry bushes, found almost everywhere, include raspberries, various types of currants, and gooseberries. Today it is actively gaining popularity:

• healing sea buckthorn;
• felt cherry;
• early honeysuckle.

Blackberries move to the orchard, more and more often on the plots you can find chokeberry, irgu and other crops, which some time ago were perceived as secondary or planted only for landscaping.

The list of shrubs for the garden is much broader than the above list of trees. No wonder. An orchard exclusively from trees will give its first harvest no earlier than 5-7 years, and the shrubs are ready to please the gardener already in the second or third year after planting.

An additional advantage of shrubs is their relatively small size and less laboriousness to care for. However, no one will be able to replace the pear with currants. Therefore, without trees, the garden will never be complete.

It is believed that in the northern regions, gardeners are limited in their choice by the harsh climate, but the further south, the more diverse the population of garden plots.

Indeed, starting from the Central Chernozem region, in the ranks of fruit and berry crops, it is not uncommon:

• apricot;
• cherry plum;
• mulberry;
• different types of nuts;
• cherry and its hybrid with cherry.

The list of shrubs is replenished with grapes, yoshta, dogwood and perennial fruiting vines.

But if until recently the gardeners of the middle lane and more northern regions were forced to be content with a very modest list of fruit and berry crops, today things are radically changing.

Nurseries have been successfully offering fruit trees and shrubs for the Moscow region for a long time, which were previously not available in the Non-Black Earth Region. The boundaries of the distribution of southern crops have seriously shifted to the north, not only due to climatic changes, but also thanks to the directed work of breeders.

It is this bait that inexperienced gardeners fall for, who want, by all means, to get a "Garden of Eden" in a limited area. You can understand them! But it is not enough to purchase seedlings, it is important to plant and grow them correctly, taking into account all the requests of plants and the characteristics of the territory.

Rules for the placement of fruit trees and shrubs in the garden

Young saplings planted in the garden grow year after year. After a few years, when the time for fruiting comes, the crowns grow by 1.5–2 meters. And mature trees take up even more space.

It is not enough to choose the most winter-hardy, high-yielding varieties; it is necessary to accurately plan the future orchard.

It is better to do this on a piece of paper, based on measurements of the distances from the planting zone to the nearest buildings, roads, fences of neighboring properties. When planting fruit trees and shrubs in a garden plot, it is necessary to take into account not only the aesthetic preferences of the owner, but also the mandatory norms. They regulate the distance from large plants to residential and outbuildings, transport routes, communications and the boundary line passing between sections.

So, for example, from an apple tree or a pear to a residential building or garage should be at least 3.5-4 meters. This distance is explained by the safe operation of the building and the need for constant care for a large horticultural crop. For shrubs, the distance is less and is one and a half meters, which makes it possible:

• to freely carry out maintenance of walls, windows and other structures and communications;
• do not be afraid of excessive moisture in close contact with vegetation;
• take care of fruit and berry crops, harvest, cut and replant them.

In addition to the mandatory, common sense and safety restrictions, there are other rules that should be considered when planning an orchard.

It is extremely important to adhere to the distance between seedlings in rows, as well as take into account the deadline for growing a particular crop in one place.

Useful and harmful neighborhood of fruit trees and shrubs in the garden

Knowledge of the needs of individual plant species and their characteristics is of considerable importance for the future planting:

1. Some crops prefer to grow in the sun, others easily adapt to the shade.
2. For some of the fruit trees and shrubs in the garden area, an open, wind-blown place is suitable, and the other will have to find shelter.
3. The demands of plants for fertility and watering vary.

It is unlikely that in the limited area of ​​the site it will be possible to please all the requests of green pets. In a small country garden, inevitably some shrubs end up under the crowns of growing trees. So that such a neighborhood does not affect the yield, the meta for planting shade-loving fruit trees and shrubs in the garden is determined in advance.

These crops include black currants, honeysuckle, undersized, berry bushes such as cranberries, blueberries and lingonberries. If the shady corner of the garden is well ventilated, viburnum will settle well here. Blackberries and raspberries are grown in partial shade.

Gardeners have long noticed that even in comfortable conditions, garden plants sometimes refuse to bear fruit at full strength, look depressed and grow poorly. It turns out that the reason for this behavior is the incorrectly chosen neighborhood. As in nature, in an orchard, trees, shrubs and herbaceous crops form tight communities. The above options for a successful and dangerous neighborhood of fruit trees and shrubs in the table will help create the best conditions for each species and get the most out of it.

You can arrange the plantings so that closely related plants are nearby. This solution will be extremely useful, for example, for cherries and petioles, many varieties of which are self-fertile, and they need a pollinator to get a harvest. A similar picture is observed when growing sea buckthorn. True, here there must be one male bush for several female plants.

In addition, for sea buckthorn, which readily reproduces by root layers, blackberries and raspberries, it is better to find a place away from the rest of the garden plantings, otherwise the powerful shoots of these crops will master half of the garden in a year.

Fruit trees and berry bushes - video

Relatively winter hardy fig varieties

There are about a thousand different varieties of figs in the world, and, as fantastic as it sounds, some of them are fruiting in the middle lane.

Ficus carica, or fig tree, is an inhabitant of the subtropics. It is a deciduous shrub or tree up to 12 m high. In the subtropics, it is pollinated by blastophages - small walnut wasps that are not found in our country. Therefore, in our region, self-fertile (parthenocarpic) varieties are grown in apartments, winter gardens and greenhouses. There are a lot of them, for example, Dalmatian, Nikitsky, Abkhazian violet, Crimean black, Kadota, Brunswik, Shuisky, Early gray, Sary Apsheronsky, Adriatic violet, Sochi No. 7, Randino, Pomorie, July, Lardaro, Gift to the 50th anniversary of October, Brown Turkey.

The best varieties of figs

• Fig Dalmatsky - tolerates a drop in temperature down to –15 ° С. It bears fruit well when it builds up a long-term supply of wood. The best yield is given by three- and four-year shoots. The fruits of this variety are pear-shaped, asymmetrical, yellow-brown or greenish-yellow in color. The weight of an average fruit is 150-200 g. The taste is the best.

• Fig Nikitsky - ribbed pear-shaped figs, light brown in color, weighing up to 120 g.

• Fig Kadota - figs of this variety are pear-shaped, ribbed, greenish-yellow or yellow-brown in color. Weigh about 100 g.
• Fig Brown turkey - It is considered one of the most winter-hardy varieties, withstands short-term drops in temperature down to –20 ° С. Very productive. Fruits of Brown Turkey are regular pear-shaped, red-brown in color, weighing up to 100 g.
• Fig Crimean black (Мouissoune, Negron) - oval ribbed fruits. Violet blue, almost black. Weigh about 100 g.
• Fig NSgift to the 50th anniversary of October - outwardly very similar to the Kadota variety, but surpasses it in yield.
• Fig Sochi No. 7 - pear-shaped fruits of yellow color with a matte bloom, weighing up to 60 g.
• Fig Brunswick (Chapla)... Fruits are pear-shaped, asymmetrical, light green or light brown, violet-red on the sunny side, weighing up to 100 g.

In the open ground of the southern regions of Russia or in greenhouse conditions, the above varieties can give 2 crops per year, and at home on the windowsill, with additional lighting, some of them (for example, Sochi No. 7) give even more. Typically, the first crop ripens in July and the second from August to October. The first crop is usually larger than the second crop.

The experience of wintering figs in the garden

Unfortunately, there are no varieties of figs that would withstand thirty-degree frosts near Moscow without shelter. Therefore, in our region, it is usually grown in an apartment, in a winter garden, in a greenhouse or in a greenhouse. In the spring, the plant is buried in the garden right with the pot, and in the fall it is dug up and brought to the frost-free basement for wintering; figs overwinter normally in the house, and then actively sets fruits. The temperature in the basement should not drop below -5 ° C: the pot will freeze, and the root system of the figs is more vulnerable than the ground part.

Having experience growing figs both in greenhouses and in containers, at some point I began to leave them to winter in the open field. Some gardeners bend the figs into a trench, put a wooden shield or a sheet of slate on top and sprinkle it with earth. This method is not very reliable: our winters are damp, the risk of wood damping increases, this is not useful for the plant.

For wintering, a rectangular box 1 m long, about 0.5 m wide and about 0.5 m high is made of expanded polystyrene or polystyrene foam. The wall thickness should be at least 10 cm (you can glue together 2 sheets of 5 cm thick). The box is wrapped with tape several times. You need to put something heavy on top, for example, an old window frame, so that the box does not get blown away by the wind and crush the roof with snow.

In winter, the structure is additionally covered with snow. In May, when the threat of frost has passed, you can completely remove the shelter. But it is not necessary to disassemble it, instead of the top cover in April, you can put a sheet of cellular polycarbonate or just stretch a plastic wrap, building a mini-greenhouse.

Leave a small ventilation gap to avoid overheating. Figs begin to grow at an average daily temperature of + 7 ... + 9 ° С, the optimum temperature for fruit ripening is + 20 ... + 35 ° С.

Growing conditions for figs

Figs will bear fruit if planted in a well-lit place, closed from northerly and easterly winds. Best of all at the southern wall of the house. Depending on the variety, it can tolerate temperature drops down to -10 ... -20 ° С. Thanks to its powerful root system, even with complete frosting to the very ground, it easily recovers from the root.

Figs are drought-resistant, but with a lack of moisture, the yield decreases. However, in the conditions of the Moscow region, natural humidity is enough for him. Prefers light and medium loams, but the soil richer in organic matter will have a beneficial effect on fruiting. It is best to plant in a small trench 30–40 cm deep at a 45 ° slope so that in October, when the figs have shed their leaves, it will be easier to bend the branches to the ground. In this case, it is undesirable for them to touch the ground.

Some of the thickening annual shoots can be removed. Figs grow quickly, so you need to pinch the shoots in a timely manner. On young plants 3-4 developed branches are left, the rest are removed. It is better not to let them grow more than 40-50 cm. So the figs will not outgrow the size of the shelter. During the growing season, it is recommended to apply abundantly liquid fertilizing based on manure every three weeks until the beginning of August, in August to feed it with ash infusion (1 liter of ash per 10 liters of water to insist for 3-4 days). The experience of planting figs in open ground shows that there are no pests on the plant.

Reproduction of figs

Parthenocarpic varieties are propagated by cuttings, which are easy to root in sand or in light soil, consisting of 50% sand and 50% peat (or turf).

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