Content
A beautiful orchid plant pleases with its beauty and exoticism. This flower was brought from Europe, and it immediately won the hearts of connoisseurs of beauty. Breeding orchids is not too troublesome, despite all the unusualness of the plant. However, inept care can lead to the death of the flower. What's the problem? It is known that the orchid is unpretentious to watering. The main feature of its breeding is the selection of soil. The substrate for the orchid needs to be special. Its irregular consistency is a common cause of the death of this magnificent flower.
Where do orchids grow?
The soil for the orchid must be selected depending on the type of plant. Even the ready-made mixture that is sold in stores is not suitable for every flower. It is necessary to select individual types of substrates in each specific case. The main requirements for the soil are lightness, moisture capacity, air permeability and looseness. The tropical climate is native to orchids. In nature, they grow in high humidity conditions, clinging to branches and trunks. 
Plants feed on dead bark and plant debris in cracks. Algae and mosses are adjacent to these plants. This is the most optimal environment for good orchid development. It is impossible to create such harmony at home, but it is necessary to bring the environment as close as possible to the natural one. This is especially true for the ground.
Features of the substrate
The substrate for plants is very diverse. Each type of flower requires its own conditions for full growth and development. Orchid is no exception and even requires a special soil composition. For this plant, ordinary fertile land is not suitable and can lead to its death. The most common mistake made by florists is the wrong orchid substrate. What gardeners have not tried to create comfortable conditions for the growth of this flower. The earth was mixed with straw and even synthetic fibers.
To date, a certain list of components has already been formed that are suitable for the formation of a substrate. Mainly used are tree bark, fern roots, charcoal, sphagnum moss, leafy soil, polystyrene, perlite, high moor peat and coconut fiber. These are the most common ingredients. Pine bark is a popular and affordable ingredient. Orchid substrate can be purchased at the store, or you can make your own.
Orchid transplant
When a plant shows signs of a lack of nutrients: leaves dry, color changes and peduncles are absent, you should think about transplanting it. If you have a greenhouse, you can transplant at any time, even during the formation of flowers. If the entire adaptation process takes place on the windowsill, then it is better to wait until the end of flowering. During the resting period, the transplant will be more successful. The roots of the plant stick very tightly to the walls of the pot. Therefore, it is necessary to wet the soil of the flower well and after 15 minutes it is easy to pull it out. Orchid roots can be pruned depending on the size of the new pot. We change the old substrate to a new one and plant a flower. It is better to strengthen it by placing a stick until the plant takes root.
Pine bark
One of the most important components of the substrate is pine bark. The structural features of the roots require high aeration and excellent access to moisture. Therefore, the substrate for the orchid should cope with these tasks perfectly. The soil can be based on the bark of oak, spruce, birch and deciduous trees.You can purchase it from the store or assemble it yourself. The bark contains microorganisms that decompose it and are activators of mycelium development. It provides free oxygen access to the roots.
But do not forget that the components of the bark absorb nitrogen to a large extent. The plant begins to lack this component and needs additional feeding. The acidic environment of this element reacts with the alkaline environment of the water and makes the soil neutral.
How to prepare the bark?
The bark of middle-aged trees should be chosen. They shouldn't be too old or young. The bark must be free of mold, resin or other foreign inclusions. For greater safety, you can boil it and then dry it. Then this component is cut into pieces, the size of which depends on the age of the plant and its size. For small plants, the size of the fragments should be no more than a hazelnut, and for large plants, no more than a walnut.
Substrate components
Substrate for seedlings and orchids can include various components. First, it is pine bark. Charcoal is also a common soil component. It can be taken from a fire where the coals are completely burnt out. The amount of this component should not be large. It tends to accumulate salts, which is bad for plant growth. For young orchids, sphagnum moss is excellent as one of the components of the substrate. It needs to be changed at least once a year. Before use, the moss must be soaked in water for a day to get rid of insects.
Peat is very often added to the soil for planting orchids. Its structure should be fibrous and contain a minimum amount of salts. Its direct task is to retain moisture in the soil. Sometimes fern roots are added to the orchid substrate. For this, adult plants are better suited. When preparing the soil yourself, it is imperative to thoroughly steam all the components in order to avoid the ingress of fungi and bacteria. It should always be remembered that the composition of the substrate depends on the type of orchid.
Coir
Today, coconut substrate for orchids has become available to many growers. It is an organic component that is produced from the shell of a coconut and its outer skin. The shell is thoroughly washed, sterilized, well dried and pressed.
This makes transporting the fiber more convenient. Coconut substrate is on sale in briquettes. It is an excellent environment for good growth and development of orchids and some other plants. After soaking, the coconut substrate retains moisture perfectly.
What is a coconut block?
What is coconut substrate in briquettes? It is a pressed block, usually 30 centimeters long and 30 centimeters wide and 15 centimeters high. Its weight is about 4.5 kg. One such block, when soaked, gives about 15 liters of substrate.
It can be used both independently, for growing a plant, and in combination with other components for preparing soil with a certain composition. Fiber particles in blocks can be of different sizes. Therefore, it is necessary to select them depending on the requirements of plants for oxygen and moisture capacity. Coconut blocks are ideal for growing orchids. They are composed of organic matter and have excellent drainage.
Benefits of coconut fiber
Today, almost every specialty store offers coconut substrates. Its price ranges from 200 to 450 rubles per block. The benefits of this component are obvious. First, it is completely organic. Secondly, it has excellent breathability, which is especially important for orchids. The third advantage is its high moisture content. Coconut substrate is capable of retaining moisture up to 7 times its own weight.
The microflora of this component is not pathogenic. It is safe and does not contain any chemical additives.It is an environmentally friendly product. Coconut substrate has a neutral environment that is ideal not only for orchids, but many other plants as well. This is the ideal material for hydroponic cultivation. This component is an ideal environment for the development of the root system. Coconut substrate can be reused. It is suitable for growing orchids, gerberas, tomatoes, anthurium, peppers, cucumbers and many other plants.
Very often, beginner amateur flower growers have questions about transplanting phalaenopsis - whether they need to be transplanted after purchase, how to properly transplant an orchid at home, whether it will harm the plant, is it possible to transplant phalaenopsis during flowering and when is it better to do it.
First, I want to congratulate you on your excellent choice. These orchids will delight you with exotic flowers for many years. And secondly, don't be afraid to transplant phalaenopsis! Their roots are large enough and not brittle. The whole procedure will take 10 minutes. Just take note of some important facts.
1. Features of epiphytes
Phalaenopsis (like dendrobium, wanda, cattleya, oncidium) are epiphytic plants. This means that they are adapted to life on trees in the crevices of the bark. The so-called aerial roots can absorb moisture from the air and serve as an anchor for the plant to the support. Through them, in nature, epiphytes receive scarce nutrients dissolved in rainwater.
And also the roots of phalaenopsis, together with the leaves, carry out the process of photosynthesis. Therefore, they need a lot of air and are completely unsuitable for life in the ground under terrestrial conditions.
2. When to transplant phalaenopsis?
Due to the fact that the substrate for orchids does not contain any nutrients, but is only a support for the plant, there is no need to change it after purchasing phalaenopsis. You will do this later, when the roots of the plant will no longer fit in the pot and begin to grow outside of it.
In this form, it becomes problematic to water the plant with water by immersing the pot in water to the level of the upper edge. And the plant itself becomes unstable and does not look so neat.
Another case when it is necessary to transplant phalaenopsis and other orchids is the appearance of fungi or mold. If you notice that the substrate is covered with a coating or has become sticky, an unpleasant odor has appeared, it must be replaced immediately. Remove the soil from the roots of the plant and rinse them with water. The old soil can no longer be used, it will have to be thrown away and replaced with a new one.
3. What substrate does epiphytic orchids need?
Please do not plant Phalaenopsis and other epiphytic orchids in terrestrial plant mix. From this, their roots will begin to rot from lack of air, excess moisture and nutrients. For this, there are special substrates for epiphytic orchids on sale. As a rule, they are composed of pine bark, coconut fibers and high peat, and are free of fungi and parasites.
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Pine bark |
Coconut flakes |
Horse peat |
Charcoal |
The main component of orchid substrates is pine bark... It decomposes slowly (3 years after the start of use) and provides good soil aeration. Pine bark (Pinus pinea) is often used abroad. This type of pine is common in Portugal, France and Spain. The substrate is produced from woodworking industry waste. Bark particles are 15-25 mm in size.
We add cut calibrated heat-treated bark of various conifers, most often pine. Pine bark dries quickly, so it is mixed with moisture-retaining ingredients. For this reason, the bark in the substrate for epiphytic orchids should be no more than 80%.
The next component is coconut... It is added to the substrate in the form of chips (or plates - pressed particles of coconut and fiber), fibers or shavings.Coconut does not decompose, retains moisture for a long time, contains nutrients and gives the soil a porous structure. It is even possible to grow house plants in pure coconut substrate. In short, coconut is a godsend for a florist.
Orchid substrate also contains high peat, charcoal and mineral additives. Peat has bactericidal properties, improves oxygen exchange processes, contains humic acids and amino acids necessary for plant development. However, foreign flower growers do not use it.
Charcoal prevents the growth of anaerobic bacteria and fungi in the substrate, helps to regulate its acidity. The size of coal particles should be about 2 cm, the content in the mixture for orchids should be up to 15%.
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Zeolite |
Sphagnum moss |
Agroperlite |
Vermiculite |
As a replacement or addition to charcoal, some manufacturers add to epiphyte substrates zeolite... This mineral retains water well and aerates the soil, prolongs the effect of fertilizers, and prevents diseases of the root system.
Sphagnum moss... Not all orchid substrates contain this ingredient. But it is easy to purchase it in a garden center and add it to ready-made or homemade soil. Sphagnum absorbs and releases moisture well, allowing the roots to breathe. It can cover the roots of phalaenopsis located on the surface of the soil. Moss retains its properties for about 3 years, after which it must be replaced. The content of sphagnum in the substrate should not exceed 40%.
Perlite, vermiculite... These are volcanic additives. They absorb and retain moisture and nutrients well, and provide looseness of the soil. For orchids, no more than 20% of this component of the total volume of the substrate can be used.
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Alternative substrates... Abroad, you can find soils that consist of large and medium-sized particles of volcanic rocks (for example, Lava-Granulat or Lavasplitt).
They are distinguished by high porosity, hold well the roots of orchids, contain a lot of air and nutrients, and moisture does not stagnate in them.
In floriculture, such substrates can be used both independently and in combination with other components.
According to the observations of plant breeders, the substrate where the orchid grows becomes obsolete after 2-3 years. After about this time, it will be necessary to transplant the plant. In practice, this means a complete replacement of the soil.
4. Which pot to choose?
So, we found out that the roots of phalaenopsis are involved in the process of photosynthesis. Therefore, they need air and light. Air access is provided by the components of the breathable substrate, which we wrote about above. But in order for the roots to have access to light, transparent plastic pots are used, which do a good job with this task.
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The material of the vessel also matters. A clay pot is not suitable for growing orchids - they only have one drainage hole that can block the thick phalaenopsis root.
Therefore, it is better to purchase a plastic one specially designed for planting epiphytic plants. In the store it can be found under the name "Orchid Pot".
It should have a lot of drainage holes. Four or six won't be enough. More than eight is optimal. Holes are made in the lower part and can also be supplemented with holes or slots in the side walls.
Water after soldering the orchid should quickly drain from the pot. This is a sign that the soil and vessel have been selected correctly.
And one more thing, regarding the shape of the pot. The upper part should be only slightly wider than the lower one. In such a container, the phalaenopsis roots will be optimally placed. Otherwise, the pot will be unstable. It is desirable that there are protrusions at the bottom of it. They will help circulate air between the bottom and drainage.
Orchid lovers make homemade epiphyte pots out of transparent plastic buckets used to pack supermarket food (such as salted vegetables) by punching many holes in the bottom and side walls. This is also a good option, although ready-made pots are inexpensive.
All glass and colored plastic jars that you find in the store with the same inscription "orchid pot" do not have a drainage hole. They are designed for you to place in them the "leaky" transparent pots, which we described above. Do not forget that you cannot plant plants in such vessels.
Over the years, for an orchid, you will not need to replace the pot itself. In rare cases, when there are a lot of roots, they are transplanted into a pot that is 2 cm larger in diameter than the previous one.
5. Phalaenopsis transplant
In order to free the roots from the old soil, press several times on the side walls of the plastic pot. While holding the plant, peel off the old substrate. All dry and rotten roots (they will be "flat" and have a gray or brown color) are removed with scissors or pruning shears until healthy tissue. Sprinkle the trimming points with ash or charcoal. We leave only strong and healthy greenish roots.
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Place the phalaenopsis in the center of the pot. In this case, the root collar should be at the level of the upper edge of the vessel. It is convenient to hold the plant at the desired level with one hand, and fill the substrate with the other hand until it fills the entire pot.
The soil particles should fill all the voids between the roots to the level of the edge of the pot. However, there is no need to tamp them strongly - as you remember, the substrate should be airy and loose.
The next day after transplanting, water the plants using the soldering method (immersing the pot in a vessel with water until the roots turn greenish).
So, let's summarize and make a kind of set of recommendations for transplantation.
6. Memo to the florist: 7 rules for transplanting phalaenopsis
- A transplant is necessary when the phalaenopsis roots do not fit in the pot.
- Do not repot your orchid during flowering. Wait for the flowers to wither completely.
- In general, there is no exact time for the transfer. But it is best to do this from April to May inclusive.
- The recommended interval for replanting orchids is every 2 years. This is due to the loss of its properties by the substrate.
- Use only a special substrate for epiphytic orchids that contains pine bark, sphagnum, high moor peat and charcoal. The composition of the substrate may vary depending on the manufacturer. If you wish, you can supplement it with other useful components at your discretion.
- The pot should be plastic, transparent, with a large number of holes (more than 8) and protrusions on the bottom. If the capacity meets all the requirements, we transplant it into an old pot or 2 cm larger than the previous one - it all depends on the size of the plant roots.
- Water the plant the day after transplanting.
I think the article will be interesting not only for beginners, but also for experienced orchid breeders.
Hopefully there are not too many beeches.
SUBSTRATES FOR CULTIVATION OF ORCHID
The choice of a substrate for orchids is a rather difficult decision, because, on the one hand, you want to bring the content of your plant as close as possible to natural, and on the other hand, the conditions of keeping a plant in a home culture are so different from natural that copying this very nature can end up giving a radically opposite result from the desired result.
How do orchids grow in nature? In order to answer this question, it should be immediately noted that orchids are divided into three large groups:
EPIPHYTHES, i.e. growing on other, living or dead, plants;
LITHOFITS - growing on rocks, stones;
Euphites - or LAND PLANTS - growing directly on the soil surface.
That is, we have at least two different types of root system (epiphytes and lithophytes in this matter are very similar), and therefore, two different preferences in substrates.
However, here it should be noted that some representatives of terrestrial orchids are also found on trees (in their lower part) and exhibit some properties of epiphytes.
Let's consider in more detail the EPIPHITE type of growth. Trees for epiphytic orchids serve as a SUPPORT, they do not crawl into their bark with their roots and do not feed on tree sap. The orchid is not a parasite! In the vast world of orchids, there are only a few species that can be PARTIALLY assigned the title of "parasite" - EPIPARASIT and or MYCOPARASIT. To date, only a dozen LAND (i.e. not epiphytes) orchids are known that fit this definition. Among them are Gastrodia minor and Rhizanthella gardneri. Both of these species do not have their own photosynthesis and spend most of their time underground. They live in symbiosis with Thanatephorus gardneri mushrooms, and it is these mushrooms that parasitize on the tea trees growing nearby. In relation to the tree, the fungus acts as a parasite, and the orchids associated with the fungus by symbiosis receive minerals useful for development from the fungi, etc. substances, thereby acting as a third parasitic person. Through symbiosis with the fungus, they receive about 3% of the total nutrition, therefore, in principle, they are not particularly interested in this parasitism.
Among the epiphytes, there are neither parasites (which do not have their own photosynthesis), nor semi-parasites.
For their development, orchids need not only moisture, but also many useful microelements, which in the natural environment they take mainly from accumulations of humus in the cracks between the bark. Especially a lot of nutritious humus is collected in the depressions of the bark of the branches, it is there that the orchids purposefully pull their "aerial" roots to get to the most nutritious place. Observing the growth of the root system of epiphytic orchids, it can be noted that plants sitting in a nutritious place have a very meager root system and are reluctant to pull out long "aerial" roots.
It is a little more difficult with natural substrates of LAND orchids, since they are found on humus accumulations, and on clay soils, and even on stones. If some kind of universal mixture can be applied to any epiphytic plant, then for many terrestrial plants you need a clear knowledge of the natural composition of the soil (its acidity, etc.), otherwise your orchid simply simply will not grow (it will slowly wither and die).
When choosing a substrate for orchids, it is necessary to take into account the personal preferences of one or another type of orchid (whether they need humus, calcium, lava, oak leaves, etc.), the expected conditions of detention, especially in relation to LIGHT CONDITIONS. For example, everyone knows that most orchids of the Phalaenopsis genus originate from tropical regions, where there is no clear division into seasons (winter, summer, etc.), the same insolation affects plants all 12 months of the year, so orchids are all while they are in the stage of active growth (new roots, leaves, peduncles are growing), when recommending the choice of a substrate, both manufacturers of ready-made substrates and greenhouse workers proceed from the fact that the final consumer (you and me) will contain our plant in the same way, namely: WITH GOOD LIGHT ALL 12 MONTHS A YEAR. Perhaps we have such an intention, but we do not always fulfill it. In late autumn and winter, the intensity of lighting in our region cannot be compared with the lighting that this or that orchid is used to (or rather, which is required for its healthy lifestyle), it stops growing, stops absorbing moisture, and we as we continued, we continue to fertilize and water it regularly, without thinking about the fact that we are not helping the plant now, but we are killing it.
REMEMBER that all ready-made and recommended mixtures for orchids are made on the basis that you will exactly follow the light conditions necessary for the plant, your carelessness in this regard is not taken into account, and your plant rotting in winter is not a consequence of a bad substrate, but a consequence of BAD LIGHTING and your unwillingness to change something in this regard.
The substrate for epiphytic orchids must simultaneously meet the following requirements:
AIR PERMISSIBILITY - since oxygen is needed for the functioning of the root system, which, as moisture moves into the root, is displaced from it. The substrate must be porous. Many orchid lovers (and not only beginners) mistakenly believe that the porosity of the substrate is needed so that it dries out faster so that the roots do not rot, however, this is not entirely true. The substrate should not dry out under the influence of air or heat, moisture from the substrate should be absorbed, since this is why we water our orchids in order to saturate them with moisture. Ideally, all the water that gets to the orchid during watering should be absorbed, and not evaporated from the substrate into the environment. DON'T FORGET ABOUT IT!
STABILITY - it should keep its shape as long as possible, not rot or decompose.
ABILITY TO KEEP MOISTURE - we plant our plants in pots to water them as little as possible in a normal window sill. Without a pot and without a substrate for normal development, it will be necessary to water the orchid 2-3 times a day, which is very difficult for a home culture. "Moisture capacity" shouldn't scare you. If your plant is exposed to exactly the amount of sun that this plant requires all 12 months of the year, then its roots will never rot even in a glass of water, not to mention moss or a sponge. The fear of the moisture capacity of the substrate is due to a misunderstanding of the importance of the light factor for orchids, and only them. We do not think that our orchid in poor lighting conditions feels about the same as we do during the flu, when we lie with a temperature of 40 ° C, it feels bad. We consider it normal to ignore good winter lighting, naively believing that if the vanka is well wet, then the orchid will get used to poor winter lighting and will firmly endure all the hardships of this period. There is no need to think that by bringing home a tropical plant and placing it on the windowsill, it will automatically cease to be a native of the tropics and mutate to the state of a lily of the valley or cornflower that lives in our climate.
ADVERSE FOR PEST ORGANISMS - i.e. the ability to potentially transform as little as possible into a favorable environment for the mass development of pathogens. Their presence in substrates in small amounts is normal, but the substrate should prevent situations when they begin to multiply in large quantities.
At the moment, more than a hundred substrate components for growing orchids are known. But most of them, for one reason or another, rarely appear on sale. So, let's consider the most commonly found substrate components of orchids on sale:
Sphagnum moss
pH - 3.5 - 4.5
Advantages - bactericidal and fungicidal action; good moisture content; in the process of decomposition, substances useful for nutrition are formed, especially for the growth of new roots; in a dry state, it allows air to pass through; is a natural barrier to many salts in tap water; prevents a more rapid increase in the pH of the substrate when watering with ordinary tap water.
Disadvantages - when exposed to high temperatures, it decomposes very quickly and loses all its useful properties, and therefore needs a fairly quick replacement; when destroyed, its moisture capacity increases sharply, which ultimately can lead to rotting of the roots; is an ideal habitat for settlement and rapid reproduction of mushroom mosquitoes.
Application - Both live and dry sphagnum in pure form are very well suited for growing young plants and seedlings, since in the process of its processing microorganisms release microelements useful for building new roots. Bactericidal and fungicidal properties are used in the resuscitation of orchids, as they prevent the development of diseases. However, REMEMBER that this information is ONLY for fresh, undecomposed sphagnum.
Indispensable for home culture of orchids, watered with ordinary tap water, as it retains many harmful impurities and excess salts. For these purposes, a small layer of sphagnum is laid on the top layer of the substrate and changes from time to time, especially if it turns black. The proportion of sphagnum in substrates can be up to 40%.
Mountain moss (Andraea, Thuidium, Hypnum)
pH - about 5
Advantages - Bactericidal and fungicidal action; in the process of decomposition, substances useful for nutrition are formed, especially for the growth of new roots; is a natural barrier to many salts in tap water; prevents a more rapid increase in the pH of the substrate when irrigated with ordinary tap water; Unlike sphagnum, its moisture capacity does not increase during decomposition, since the decay of mountain moss does not occur completely.
Disadvantages - rarely appears in supply; commercially available moss curtains contain a large amount of soil, which carries the eggs of insect pests.
Application - As a rule, it is applied only as a top layer of a substrate.
Peat (white, red, black)
In the photo - red peat.
pH - from 3 (white and black) to 6.5 (red).
Benefits - Prevents a faster increase in the pH of the substrate when irrigated with ordinary tap water; good moisture content; does not contain bacteria harmful to orchids.
Disadvantages - Low air permeability when wet; when dry, it can draw moisture from plants; low nutrient content.
Application - It is used only as an additive to the substrate to regulate acidity, since ordinary tap water has a pH of 7.2-7.6 and over time increases the pH of the substrate itself, which negatively affects the functioning of the root system, it stops consuming many useful substances (for example, iron; its lack leads to the loss of leaves).
Fern roots (Dickonia, Osmunda, Cibotium)
pH - 5 - 5.3
Benefits - Rich in nutrients; good breathability; good moisture content; stable structure.
Disadvantages - rarely appears on sale.
Application - Recommended as an additive, especially for orchids with delicate, sensitive roots.
Bark (Pinus, Abies, Pseudotsuga, Pinia, Sequoia, rarely Populus)
pH - 4.5 (Pinus) to 6.5 (Sequoia)
Photo 1 - transverse cutting, photo 2 - longitudinal.
There are two main types of bark - transverse and longitudinal. In addition, according to the size of the bark particles, five conditional types of bark fractions are distinguished - very small (less than 0.5 cm), small (0.5 - 1 cm), medium (1 - 2 cm), large (3 - 4 cm), very large (more than 5 cm).
Benefits - Good breathability; good moisture holding capacity (only cross-cut bark); slow decomposition (cross-cut bark only); inertia.
Disadvantages - Low nutrient content; fast decomposition (only longitudinal cut bark); Many microorganisms that decompose the bark of Populus (poplar bark) take some of the nitrogen and phosphorus from the plants.
Application - Recommended as the main component of substrates for orchids, especially if the conditions of your apartment do not allow providing the plants with the necessary light in the autumn-winter period. Good air permeability of the bark allows it to evaporate moisture not absorbed by the roots, thereby, in some way, protecting it from decay. In view of the not quite optimal pH (relevant for Pinus), its share should not exceed 80%. The ideal component is 50-60%.
Sand and pebbles
pH - about 7
Photo 1 - coarse river sand, photo 2 - coastal pebbles.
Benefits - Good breathability.
The disadvantages are the almost complete lack of nutrients.
Application - It is used as drainage or for hydroculture.
Expanded clay and seramis
pH - 8
In photo 1 - expanded clay, in photo 2 - seramis.
Benefits - Good breathability; quite water-absorbing; stable structure; inert.
Disadvantages - Does not contain nutrients, therefore, in pure expanded clay and or seramis, orchids will need to be fed very often. With strong heating, it begins to actively evaporate moisture, which greatly cools the root system of orchids, it can simply glaze and turn sour in a few hours. In winter, the windowsill can also get very cold and deadly frostbitten the roots.
Application - It is used either as drainage or for hydroculture. It is very important that it is always at stable temperatures (without extreme heating or cooling), otherwise the plant can lose all roots in a few hours.
Perlite and vermiculite
pH - 7.5 - 8
In photo 1 - perlite, in photo 2 - vermiculite.
Benefits - Good breathability; quite water-absorbing; stable structure; promotes good absorption of nutrients.
Disadvantages - large quantities can lead to mineralization of root tissues.
Application - Recommended only as an additive. The ideal component is from 10 to 20%.
Mineral wool
pH - 8
Not to be confused with glass wool!
Advantages - Stable structure; good moisture holding capacity.
Disadvantages - Low air permeability; lack of nutrients.
Application - Recommended as additives or for growing young plants of certain types of orchids. The ideal component is no more than 15%.
Styrofoam (polystyrene)
pH - 7.2
Benefits - Good breathability; stable structure; inertia.
Disadvantages - Low moisture content; lack of nutrients.
Application - Recommended as a drainage additive or to increase the breathability of the substrate.
Dolomite
pH - 7
Benefits - Raises the pH of the substrate (especially important for many types of terrestrial orchids of the genus Paphiopedilum); enriches the substrate with magnesium.
Disadvantages - if the concentration is incorrect, it almost completely burns the roots of orchids (chemical burn).
Application - To increase the pH add dolomite at the rate of 25 g. for 10 liters of substrate.
Charcoal
pH - 7
Not to be confused with activated! The use of the latter in an amount of more than 2% due to the starch content (to stabilize the shape of the tablets) is contraindicated!
Benefits - Promotes the regulation of the pH of the substrate to a normal value of 5.5 - 6.5; has a disinfectant effect and protects the root system of plants from various fungal and bacterial diseases; absorbs toxins; promotes the absorption of nutrients; good breathability.
Disadvantages - low moisture content; in large quantities, it is able to extract nutrients from the roots.
Application - Recommended only as an additive, especially for seedlings and diseased plants. It should not be crumbled, it absorbs toxins better in chunks. The ideal component is from 5 to 30%.
Oak leaves (Quercus, Ilex)
pH - 6 - 7
Benefits - Contains a lot of nutrients.
Disadvantages - Decomposes very quickly to a state of humus; low air permeability; often bring along with them fungal diseases.
Application - Applies only to a limited number of terrestrial orchid species. The ideal component is up to 20%.
Cork (shredded or whole)
pH - 7.2
Advantages - Stable structure; very good breathability; not prone to salinity.
Disadvantages - low moisture content.
Application - Recommended as a drainage or to increase the breathability of the substrate. In its pure form, it is ideal for planting orchids such as Vanda. Solid cork is almost ideal for growing orchids on blocks.
Plant fiber (sisal, kenaf, coir, hemp)
pH - 7
In the photo - sisal.
Advantages - Stable structure; very good breathability; due to the high content of lignin, it is practically not subject to decay.
Disadvantages - low moisture content; rarely on sale; high price.
Application - Recommended for increasing the breathability of the substrate. In its pure form, it is ideal for planting orchids such as Vanda. Practically indispensable for lining hanging baskets.
Coconut chips
pH - 7
Advantages - High moisture content; good breathability; inertia.
Disadvantages - Accumulates salt and promotes salinization of the substrate, which causes root burns.
Application - It is advisable to use it as an additive for epiphytic orchids, no more than 50%.
Coconut crumb
pH - 7
Advantages - high moisture content; inertia.
Disadvantages - low air permeability.
Application - used to increase the moisture absorption of the substrate. No more than 15%.
Nutshell (hazelnuts, walnuts, pistachio)
pH - 7
Advantages - Stable structure; very good breathability.
Disadvantages - Low moisture content; lack of nutrients.
Application - Recommended as a drainage or to increase the breathability of the substrate.
Translated and adapted for Tropic Plants - Morphine.
Using coconut chips as a substrate.
Coconut fiber is a by-product of the processing of coconut shells and is used as an alternative to using moss as an organic component in hand-blended substrates. Coconut chips are lighter than wet moss and are used in the same proportions as sphagnum moss in potting mix recipes.
Coconut fiber is rich in potassium and contains trace elements of iron, copper, zinc and manganese, the less it is desirable to use fertilizers containing potassium in the beginning. It is not as acidic as moss, so if you are growing plants that prefer acidic soil, the pH of the coconut soil may need to be adjusted with other means.
Mode of application:
Coconut chips are sold in dry blocks that need to be rinsed in water before use.
As a rule, the blocks are soaked in water for about 15 minutes, during which they will expand in volume up to seven times their original size. Be sure to use a larger container for soaking, so that the fiber has where to expand.
To plant young plants, mix 2 parts coconut chips with 2 parts compost (peat) and 1 part perlite.
For a more general organic potting mix, mix 1 part coconut chips with 1 part well-aged compost (peat), 1 part humus, and 1 part sand (perlite). Leftover coconut chips can be covered and stored for several years without losing their beneficial properties.
One grower, Robert Ang, is mainly engaged in novelty phalaenopsis, a very successful experience of growing phalaenopsis in coconut chips. There is a nuance in the fact that for large pots it is better to use larger chips. Well, don't forget about drainage!
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From small to large 
Notes on the use of coconut chips (advantages and disadvantages):
1. Coconut chips hold up to 30 percent more water than moss, making them a suitable alternative to potting mixes in hanging baskets or containers that tend to dry out quickly.
2. Once dry, coconuts are wetted more easily than peat.One drawback to using coconut chips is that they tend to retain more soluble salts than moss in the substrate.
3. Pots of coconut chip soil may need to be rinsed with fresh water more often due to fertilizer salt build-up than with moss-based potting.
4. Watering needs to be controlled, let the coconut chips dry out, do not keep them wet all the time, otherwise they will decompose quickly.
5. It is advisable to replace the substrate after a year of use.
6. Coconut substrate is very fond of snails and slugs, check for their presence, can be pickled to prevent slugs.
Information collection from here:… -soil.html and… chips.html
I will also share my impressions of coconut chips: A pair of dendrons grow in coconut soil. It is easier for me to regulate the watering and the required drying.
For reanimated Cattleya, freshly arrived dried or without roots. Especially Valkerian hybrids like it. They begin to grow buds, they do not lose moisture so quickly, the roots grow normally into the substrate, when, as in moss and expanded clay, I do not really have it.
I add moisture-loving halyards to the bark. The leaves look happy.
