What are the names of the people who grow grapes?

Cultural grapes

Vitis vinifera L. (1753)

Cultural grapes (lat.Vítis vinífera) is a species of perennial shrub vines from the genus Grapes of the Grape family.

The fruits of the grapes are used in fresh food, and are also processed into raisins, grape juice, wine, jam, marinades, compotes, various drinks (alcoholic and non-alcoholic), as well as wine vinegar, including balsamic.

Oil is squeezed out of grape seeds, and the grape leaf is used to make dolma, cabbage rolls and other stuffed dishes.

Distribution and habitat

The cultivated grape grows in temperate and subtropical regions, is widely cultivated in many countries of all continents. Grapes are usually grown on a trellis.

Cultivated grapes are unknown in the wild. Scientists have found that its varieties originated from a wild Eurasian species - Forest Grape, which grows along the entire northern coast of the Mediterranean Sea and further east to the southern coast of the Caspian Sea.

On the territory of the former USSR, forest grapes are found in the Carpathians, Moldova, Crimea, on the eastern coast of the Black Sea, in the Caucasus and in the south-west of Turkmenistan.

Modern cultivated grapes differ from all wild ones by the overwhelming predominance of bisexual flowers; they are wind-pollinated, insect-pollinated and self-pollinated. Even cleistogamous (pollination with a closed flower) forms of grapes have been established.

Botanical description

In favorable conditions in the south, the vine vine reaches 30-40 meters in length, in central Russia, as a rule, only 1.5-3 m. The liana is attached with tendrils that wrap around the supports.

The bark on old trunks is brown, deeply furrowed, with a peeling crust, on young ones it is yellowish or reddish.

Leaves are alternate, petiolate, whole, three- or five-lobed.

The flowers are small, bisexual, greenish, collected in a loose or dense panicle. Grapes bloom in May-June, bears fruit in August-September, some varieties in October.

Flower formula: ∗ K (5) C (5) A5G (2 _) {displaystyle ast K _ {(5)}; C _ {(5)}; A_ {5}; G _ {({underline {2}})}}

Grape fruits - juicy berries with 1-4 small seeds (in some varieties, seeds are absent) - are collected in clusters that vary greatly in shape, color: they can be green, pink, yellow, dark red, black-violet (usually with a waxy bloom).

Until 1863 (before the appearance of the pest in Europe - phylloxera) - cultivated grapes lived up to 130-150 years.

• ripening crop

• grapes after watering

• young vine

• mustache grape

• ovary

• young leaf

Economic value and application

The grapes are eaten fresh or dried, turning them into raisins. The fruit of the grapes is a raw material for making wine.Compotes, juices, marinades are prepared from grapes. Used for decorative purposes. There are many varieties and hybrids of grapes, including those without seeds - raisins and cinnamon.

Grape juice contains a large amount of glucose, fructose, which are easily absorbed by the body, potassium cations, organic acids, trace elements. The secondary product when juice is obtained - cake - goes to livestock feed.

White, rose and red wines are obtained from grape juice by alcoholic fermentation, and after distillation - a variety of distillates (including brandy, cognac, armagnac, grappa, rakia, chacha, pisco, mark, grape vodka).

The fruits of grapes contain up to 20% sugar, vitamins C, B, enzymes, trace elements, malic and other organic acids, tannins.

The berries of sweet grape varieties are contraindicated for persons with diabetes mellitus, with acute dysentery, diarrhea and hypertension.

Wine-making waste (pomace, yeast residue, etc.) is practically used as a raw material for the production of alcohol and tartaric acid. From the waste you can also get Frankfurt rabble, yar-copperhead, tar.

Tartar, obtained from tartaric lime, crystallizes in barrels during the aging of wines and is released when the juice is boiled in vacuum apparatus.

Seeds ("seeds") of grapes are used to obtain a fatty oil suitable for food and technical purposes.

Tartaric acid is obtained from leaves and green shoots, the amount of which in these organs is 1.9-2.4% (translated into dry matter).

Cultivation of grapes

The plot of land on which grapes are grown is called a vineyard. Since the time of Columella, special trellises have been used as a support for long climbing vines.

Grapes are propagated by almost all known methods - both by seeds and vegetatively - by cuttings, layering, grafting.

400 year old vine in Maribor

The Guinness Book of Records states that the world's oldest vine grows and bears fruit in the center of the Slovenian city of Maribor, on the banks of the Drava River.

The unique wine-growing regions of Wachau and Lavaux, where the traditions of viticulture go back centuries, are protected by UNESCO as World Heritage Sites. Other regions famous all over the world for their wines are Tokay, Champagne, Burgundy, Medoc, Beaujolais, Rioja, Tuscany, Rheingau.

Historical reference

According to archaeological sources, scientists believe that viticulture originated in Ancient Egypt 6000 years BC. At the feasts of the ancient Egyptians, various types of wine and beer were also served next to many dishes. During the time of the pharaohs, vineyards stretched up the Nile to the rapids.

The neighboring countries of Egypt did not leave such ancient archaeological sources, but in them, in particular, it is mentioned that during the construction of the Temple of Solomon, workers were given 20,000 baht of wine. This serves as proof that for almost 1000 BC. NS. winemaking existed in the Mediterranean.

Viticulture was especially developed in Ancient Greece. In Greek literature, wine is often spoken of, in particular in Homer's Odyssey there are many verses that mention wine. On the shield of Achilles, skillful Hephaestus, among other images of gold, made "a marvelous large vineyard, weighed down with sweet fruit", "black bunches hung in it."

Grape varieties

The grape variety is the lowest systematic unit used to describe the variety of cultivated grapes. It characterizes the distinctive set of inherited morphological, biological and economic characteristics. In total, more than 3,000 grape varieties grow on the territory of Russia and the CIS countries.

By origin, selection methods and biological characteristics, they are distinguished:

• population varieties are most often ancient, local varieties, represent a set of clones that retain local characteristics and adaptability to certain conditions;
• clone varieties are vegetative offspring isolated from plants according to one valuable essential trait (less often several). Clone mixes are the majority of cultivated varieties.
• hybrid varieties - specially selected offspring from crossing two or more plants, which inherited valuable properties from their parents.

According to the properties of berries and the predominant use of the products obtained from them, grape varieties are divided into:

• table varieties. They are grown mainly for fresh consumption. These are usually large-berry, large-grained varieties with an attractive appearance and very high taste;
• technical grades. They are grown for making wine, juices, etc. The main distinguishing feature of these varieties is the high percentage of juice in the berry (75-85% of its total mass). Bunches and berries are small, most industrial varieties have a fairly high yield;
• seedless varieties. They are grown for fresh consumption and dried products;
• universal varieties. These varieties are grown both for fresh consumption and for processing. According to the dimensional characteristics of bunches and berries, universal varieties are larger than technical ones, but smaller than table varieties. have a fairly juicy pulp.

According to the ripening period of berries, grape varieties are divided into seven groups. The basis for such a division is the following: how many days pass from budding to full ripeness of the berries. According to this trait, varieties are very early (up to 105 days), very early (105-115 days), early (115-125 days), early middle (125-130 days), medium (130-135 days), medium late (135-140 days) and very late (more than 140 days).

Vineyards in Central Asia

According to taste, grape varieties are divided into four groups:

1. Ordinary taste. It is a combination of sweetness and acidity in various ratios, without any other distinctive features. Among the common-tasting grape varieties, a group of neutral-tasting varieties is sometimes distinguished, which is often referred to as "simple".
2. Muscat flavor. In taste and aroma, the nutmeg hue is more or less clearly expressed.
3. Solanaceous taste. There is a herbaceous flavor reminiscent of nightshade berries.
4. Isabel taste. A more or less strongly pronounced characteristic flavor is felt, somewhat reminiscent of strawberry, pineapple or blackcurrant. This flavor is inherent in the berries of all varieties of the American species Vitis labrusca L., as well as in interspecific hybrids with it, a typical representative of which is the widespread variety Isabella (hence the name "isabelny"). Isabelle-flavored varieties most often have slimy flesh.

The science dealing with the study of the diversity of grapes - varieties, forms and clones - at the level of populations and species, as well as the study of the patterns of variability of traits and properties under the influence of environmental conditions and human activity is called ampelography.

Modern cultivated cultivated grapes can be divided into table and wine (technical) varieties. There are more than 8000 grape varieties in the world. The most widespread are:

• Muscats are a group of grape varieties with a strong characteristic ("Muscat") berry aroma, reminiscent of musk.
• Riesling is a white grape variety and also a variety of wine made from it.
• Feteasca is a technical grape variety and wine from this variety.
• Isabella is an American grape variety, black berries, with slimy pulp and a specific smell, ripens late, consumed fresh; used in winemaking.

American varieties ‘Kay Gray’ and ‘Kee-wan-din’ can withstand frosts down to -37 ° C, while ‘Mars’ at a temperature of -30.7 ° C retains about 63.2% of the eyes. The ‘Venus’ variety is inferior to ‘Mars’ in frost resistance, but it ripens earlier and has a higher taste.

Diseases and pests of grapes

• Oidium. Fungus disease caused by Uncinula necator.
• Mildew (downy mildew).Fungus disease caused by Plasmopara viticola.
• White rot of grapes. Fungal disease caused by Coniothyrium diplodiella.
• Gray rot. Fungal disease caused by Botrytis cinerea.
• Black rot. Fungus disease caused by Guignardia Bidwelii.
• Anthracnose. Fungal disease caused by Gloesporium ampelophagum.
• Cercosporiasis. Fungus disease, the causative agent of Cercospora vitis and some other types of fungi of the same genus.
• Paralysis of the vine, esca. One of the causes of the disease is the Stereum hirsutum fungus. The wood of the affected part is yellow.
• Root rot. Fungus disease, the main causative agent of Rosellinia necatrix.
• Melanosis. Fungus disease caused by Septoria ampelina.
• Short node, infectious degeneration. A viral disease of grapes, often transmitted through grafting or soil.
• Necrosis. This is a physiological disease that is not associated with the activity of microorganisms. Necrosis is characterized by necrosis of wood tissue.
• Chlorosis. Can be infectious and non-infectious. Infectious chlorosis is a viral disease, and the virus can be transmitted in various ways: through soil, vaccination and vectors. Non-infectious chlorosis is a physiological disease caused by unfavorable soil conditions and, as a consequence, metabolic disorders.
• Crayfish. Bacterial disease caused by Bacterium tumefaciens.
• Phylloxera. The pest is the insect Dactylosphaera vitifoliae.

Raw materials for winemaking

Millions of microorganisms, including various yeasts, adhere to the waxy surface of the peel of grape berries, which is called pruin. These microorganisms create a frosty effect on the grape skins, known as "fluff". If the grape is crushed, then alcoholic fermentation will begin, the cause of which is the presence of yeast fungi that feed on grape sugar. Yeast digestive enzymes break down grape sugar to provide energy, and the byproducts of this process are carbon dioxide and alcohol (the latter in the absence of oxygen).

Grape wines are made from technical (wine) grape varieties that occupy most of the world's vineyards. Technical grape varieties should accumulate sugar well with a moderate decrease in acidity, and be easily processed industrially. The best wines are made from European grape varieties. Vitis vinifera - Cabernet Sauvignon, Riesling, Chardonnay, Shiraz, Nebbiolo. New hybrid technical varieties in terms of the quality of the wines produced are close to them. For the preparation of different types of wines, certain grape varieties are used that meet special requirements.

Cultural allusions

According to ancient Greek myth, Oresfey's dog gave birth to a piece of wood, he buried it, and grapes grew from it. Winemaking is patronized by the ancient Greek god Dionysus.

In heraldry, grapes are depicted in the historical coats of arms of many cities: Akkerman, Izyum, Kizlyar, Telavi, Chuguev and others. The town of Raisin "publicly" was named in the 17th century with a "grape" name.

The grape is a symbol of Armenia, because, according to the biblical legend, Noah, leaving the ark on Mount Ararat, planted a vine, from the harvest of which he received wine. The climatic conditions of Armenia have created a favorable environment for the growth of grapes on the territory of Armenia. The grapes growing there are characterized by a high sugar content, which is necessary to obtain high quality wines and cognacs.

The asteroid (759) Winifer, discovered in 1913 by the German astronomer Franz Kaiser, whose ancestors were engaged in the cultivation of grapes, is named in honor of the cultural grape.

Notes (edit)

Literature

• Lazarevsky M.A. Study of grape varieties. - Rostov n / a: Publishing house of Rostov University, 1963.
• Merzhanian A.S. Viticulture. - M .: Kolos, 1967.
• Negrul A.M., Gordeeva L.N., Kalmykova T.I. Ampelography with the basics of viticulture. - M .: Higher. shk., 1979.
• Potebnya A.A., Skrobishevsky V. Ya. A guide to viticulture. - SPb .: Publishing house of Devriena, 1906.
• Troshin L.P. Ampelography and grape selection. - Krasnodar: Free Masters, 1999.
• Encyclopedia of Viticulture. - Chisinau: ITU, 1986-1987.

Links

• Cultural grapes. Analytical review. The pharmaceutical properties of grapes are described. Retrieved November 18, 2008.
• Grape Diseases on the Don and How to Recognize Them, How to Treat and Protect Vineyards from Diseases A.P. Tyurmorezov (The original book is kept in the Russian State Library in Moscow)
• Detailed description of history, morphology, cultivation, use. On the National Agro Portal.
• Grape varieties and their description - information on the site sort-vinograd

Who grows the grapes? What is the name of the profession?

First of all, it should be noted that the entire category of professions that are engaged in the cultivation of cultivated plants is called plant growing, and therefore a person who grows grapes is a plant grower. But according to the name of the plant itself, the profession of such a person is Vintner, in the west this profession is most often owned by farmers. Initially, grapes were grown not as a delicacy, although such use took place, but as a source of obtaining wine, therefore, most often a winegrower is also a winemaker or winemaker. And of course, for a real winegrower, one also needs to be an agronomist and a bit of a breeder in order to develop new grape varieties and monitor the state of the vineyards.

Grapes, a summary of a lesson on native nature and drawing in the middle group

Synopsis of a lesson on native nature and modeling in the senior group, the topic "Grapes"

The author of the lesson: Davydova Svetlana Alekseevna, educator-methodologist of the highest qualification category.

Software content:

Clarify and expand children's knowledge about grapes and viticulture.
To acquaint children with the legend about grapes from the book by L. Zgurovskaya "August in the Crimea". Learn to understand the figurative meaning of the legend.
Dictionary: grapes, vineyard, winegrower, vine, tasting.
To consolidate the ability to draw with your fingers.
Develop curiosity, small muscles of the hands.
To foster interest in the nature of the native land.

Equipment:

Bunches of grapes of different varieties, grape juice, raisins.
Toothpicks or skewers for pricking raisins.
Pictures depicting a vine.

Grape shoots

Vine

Vineyard

Fruits of different grape varieties

Course of the lesson:

Guys, let's try to make a trip to the distant, distant past, when people had not yet appeared on earth. There was a strong earthquake and the earth's land rose from the sea waters. This is how our Crimea appeared. The wind and birds brought seeds of different plants to the Crimean land. Among them are grapes. But the grapes are wild, with small, black and sour berries. Birds and animals willingly feasted on wild grapes. But then people appeared. Gradually they learned a lot: building houses, growing plants. And then they turned their attention to the wild grapes. They began to choose larger and sweeter ones. Over time, cultivated grapes were brought out of wild grapes. Until now, scientists are developing new grape varieties: there are seedless grapes with round, oval berries and many, many other varieties.
Now think and tell me, who is a winegrower? This is a person who grows grapes. And the plot of land on which grapes grow is called a "vineyard".

Our Crimean land is very suitable for growing grapes. If you have to drive around our peninsula, you will see many vineyards.

There are many different grape varieties. We have three varieties today: Muscat, Isabella and Rkatsiteli. And now you can try them. When tasted in order to determine the taste or smell, it is called tasting. Right now we will have a tasting of different grape varieties.Wash your hands and start tasting.

Grape tasting

After the tasting, you can ask the children which grape variety they liked the most.

Have you noticed that grapes come in different colors. What color are the grapes that you tasted today - tasted? Pink, yellow-green, almost black. Berries grown together, side by side, are called a grape cluster or bunch.

And where did the grape bunches of different colors come from is told in an old legend. We have already read the legends, and we know that this is a fairy tale about something that really exists.

The Legend of the Grapes

“Grapes appeared on Earth a long, long time ago. His mother was the Earth, his father was the Sun. At the time of the birth of grapes, its bunches were poured (ripened) not for a month or two, as now, but quickly - sutra until dusk (evening), and those that had time to ripen by dawn, borrowed from the morning dawn its delicate blush and turned pink. The bunches, ripe during the day, turned golden yellow - they took over the gold of its rays from the sun shining brightly in the sky. Berries ripened late in the evening, the southern night gave its dark or velvety blue tones.

Now the grapes ripen for several months: the first ripens in the middle of summer, and the harvest of the last, late grapes is harvested in the middle of autumn. But the earth and the sun are still the parents of grapes. Without the sun, not a grain can ripen, not a berry. The earth provides nourishment for the roots of the grape bush. But the stem and branches of a grape bush are called "vine". Repeat this word and try to remember. The vine is flexible, long and thin. So that it does not break from the weight of the grape clusters, the growers tie the vine to the post.

Birds, insects, animals love grapes no less than humans. Bees, wasps, ants love to eat grapes. Hamsters hide grape berries by their cheeks in their underground pantry. And sparrows, rooks, crows peck sweet berries right from the vine.

Let's play an outdoor game "Birds and Grapes".

Dynamic poise "Birds and grapes"

Children depicting birds run ("fly"). The leader (“watchman”), upon the command “The watchman is coming”, begins to catch the children-“birds”.

At all times, people have appreciated grapes. In the old days, when wars raged on our peninsula, the winners dug up grapes and took them home.

After all, grapes endows not only with delicious berries. Juice and wine are made from grapes. And also a delicious treat. Here it is. (Show of raisins). Do you know what it is? These are raisins - dried grapes. For raisins, seedless grapes are chosen. Let's have a raisin and grape juice tasting.

Tasting of raisins and juice

It turns out that grapes are still able to cure some diseases. And he also cleanses the human body, gives him strength and health.

Let's draw a bunch of grapes. But first, let's prepare our fingers for work. It is with them that we will draw.

Finger gymnastics "Grapes"

The index finger is the most inquisitive.
Can press buttons, can pick holes.
And it depends on the owner how to use the craftsman.
We will train our finger - he will draw grapes.

Children squeeze their right hand into a fist, extend their index finger, press it on the palm of their left hand and make rotational movements in one direction and the other. Then the same is done with the left hand.

Drawing "Bunches of grapes"

Children draw grapes with their fingers on a sheet of paper with a leaf, a tendril and a twig drawn. The teacher draws the attention of children that it is possible to achieve different sizes of berries by changing the pressure of the finger. You can invite children to choose the color of their grapes. Pay attention to the shape of the menace: there are more berries on top, the lower, the fewer berries.

1. What is the difference between cultivated grapes and wild grapes?
2. Who are the growers?
3. What is the name of the trunk of a grape bush?
4. What color are the grape berries?
5. Tell the legend about the grapes.
6. What is made from grapes?
7. What is called raisins?
8. Who but man loves grapes?

In 1930, The Rogue Song, a film about the kidnapping of a girl in the Caucasus Mountains, was released in the US. Actors Stan Laurel, Lawrence Tibbett and Oliver Hardy played local crooks in this film. Surprisingly, these actors are very similar to the heroes.

Who grows the bread? What is the name of the profession?

What professions do people work to get bread?

The generalized newspaper headline name of this profession is a grain grower, but in fact such a profession does not exist, it is impossible to study such a profession in any university, technical school or college. People of many professions work to get bread. The TRACTORIST plows the land, often he also sows grain, monitors the growth of grain with AGRONOM, if in the course of growth it becomes necessary to treat the fields from pests, then the pilot from the plane sprays poison from pests. The COMBINER collects grain, the DRIVER takes it to the current, there are a lot of people of different professions on the current. While the grain turns into a loaf of bread, 15 more professions are nursing him. So the farmer in the peasant sense, with a plow and a horse, as he was once invented, has long been gone.

Tractor driver, chauffeur, combine operator, agronomist Are people who grow bread under the general title Grain growers, in cultivation of bread a lot of people with different professions and with one direction are involved.

Grain grower grows bread.

Agronomist checks the land for plowing, checks the soil, controls the plowing process, monitors the condition of the seeds in winter.

Tractor driver plows the ground, harrows, sows seeds into the ground.

Chauffeur which brings grain (wheat, rye, oats) into the seeder, and when the grain ripens, the combine puts the grain into the machine and the machine takes the grain to the warehouse.

Combineer goes into the field when the grain is ripe, mows the ears, threshes the grain and pours it into a machine that will take the grain to the warehouse.

The profession that focuses on growing grapes is called a winegrower. Judging by the reviews of officials, it is prestigious, but quite rare in our time (of course, they themselves sit in offices). And according to the recall of my former mother-in-law, it is rare because it is hellishly heavy, even in practice at the technical school you will have to plow under the scorching sun in the vineyards, with such zeal, as if you are not a simple student in practice, but the real owner of this plantation.

otvet.expert

HOW TO GROW AND GROW GRAPES. A GUIDE FOR AMATEUR VINE GROWERS

Authors: L.P. Mashinskaya, A.V. Dashkevich (1954)

The grapes are grown on a trellis (wire), near the walls, or they are arranged from vines to gazebos and arches. It all depends on the size of the plot. Grapes can also be grown in flowerpots, like a houseplant. With proper planting and good care from a trellis culture bush, you can get from 3 to 10 or more kilograms of grapes, and each square meter of the entwined wall gives up to 4-5 kilograms of fruit. In addition, wrapping around walls, balconies and gazebos, grapes protect from heat, dust and freshen the air. Each grape plant in indoor conditions can ripen 2-3 kilograms of full-fledged berries. Recently, interest in home garden viticulture has been increasing. Growing grapes, like any other business, requires certain knowledge and skill. This brochure acquaints wine-growers with the peculiarities of the grape plant, the rules for setting up a vineyard and caring for it. The brochure also tells how to grow grapes indoors.

Brief characteristics of the grape plant

Depending on the area, as well as on the characteristics of the culture, the vine can look like either a small bush or a huge plant occupying tens of square meters. The grape bush does not have a definite shape, but takes the form of objects that serve as its support. With the help of special tendril hooks, the vine is able to rise to a fairly large height.

In the Rostov and Kamensk regions, European grapes are grown, as well as Michurin frost-resistant varieties and hybrids of Amur grapes. Amur grapes are also planted for decorative purposes.

The grape bush (Fig. 1) consists of underground and aboveground parts. The underground part is the root system (the totality of all roots), and the aboveground part is the stem, perennial branches (sleeves), annual shoots and leaves, antennae, inflorescences, clusters developing on them.

Rice. 1. Grape bush: 1 - replacement knots; 2 - shoots; 3 - thickening of the stem (head); 4 - perennial branches (sleeves); 5 and 7 - roots; 6 - underground stem (stem); 8 - fruit shoot; 9 - fruitless escape

Roots play an important role in the life of a plant. They take water and nutrients necessary for the plant from the soil and serve as a kind of pantry where reserves of these substances are stored.

The root system of grapes is powerful and has the ability to adapt to different soils.

The grapes are propagated by annual cuttings, which consist of several nodes and internodes. A node is a thickening on the handle, from which leaves, antennae and inflorescences are subsequently formed, and an internode is the distance between the nodes.

The roots grow from a node located at the base of the cutting (heel roots). Before the roots appear on the node, tubercles of white loose tissue (callus) are formed.

The main roots originate from these tubercles, and smaller roots develop on them, ending in thin root hairs. Root hairs absorb water with dissolved mineral nutrients from the soil. The faster and better the roots develop, the higher the yield of the bushes and the more durable they are, and in order for the root system to develop well, it is necessary to process the soil correctly and in a timely manner every year, apply fertilizers and water the grapes.

The stem connects the roots to the leaves and buds. Along the stem, water and minerals rise from the roots to the leaves, and from there go the juices necessary for the roots, produced by the leaves. The stem also accumulates substances that the plant spends in the spring for the formation of shoots and the first leaves. The stem of the grapes is thin, but with age, its thickness sometimes reaches 30 centimeters or more. The length of the stem is regulated by pruning.

The part of the stem from the base to the fork is called the stem. The stem is created artificially, and its height depends on the method of culture. Where it is necessary to cover the grapes for the winter, the stem is formed short, with a thickening (head), or a stemless bush shape is taken out.

Perennial branches that develop on the stem, depending on the formation, are called sleeves, shoulders, lashes or cordons.

On last year's (two-year) vine, annual shoots grow, and leaves, tendrils, bunches and stepchildren (shoots from buds sitting in the leaf axil) develop on them.

Shoots with inflorescences grown on last year's vine are called fruitful, but without inflorescences, they are called sterile. Depending on the length and shape of pruning, annual shoots are called arrows, replacement knots, fruit lashes.

On a fruitful shoot, starting from the third or fourth node, inflorescences appear against the leaf. Usually there are 1-3 of them, less often 4-6 (in Isabella and Lydia varieties). The presence of a tendril above the inflorescence is a sign that there will be no more inflorescences on the shoot.

Leaves do a very important job. In them, organic substances (starch, sugar) are formed from inorganic substances (water, carbon dioxide of the air), which are necessary for a plant to live and form a crop. This work is done in the leaves by special small green bodies - chlorophyll grains under the influence of sunlight.

The formation of starch and sugar depends on the intensity of sunlight and temperature; it occurs most actively at 28-30 degrees. The most productive leaves are located in the middle of the shoots, because they have more light and heat.Through the leaves, the plant breathes and evaporates water.

The leaves of grapes of different varieties are very diverse in shape, color, dissection, pubescence and other characteristics, therefore, the shape of the leaf is of great importance in recognizing varieties.

Inflorescences are laid in the buds. In the spring, the buds bloom, a shoot and an inflorescence grow out of them. It grows rapidly, branches (especially in its lower part), becomes loose.

The flower of the vine is small, greenish-yellow. The petals look like a six-pointed cap. The pistil of the flower consists of a short column, a somewhat widened stigma and a pitcher-shaped ovary.

Cultural grapes have two types of flowers: bisexual and functionally female (performing only a female function). The bisexual flower has both male and female organs, in appearance it differs from the female by the stamens sticking up with anthers (Fig. 2). Female flowers also have stamens with anthers, but they are bent at the base, underdeveloped and their pollen is incapable of fertilization. Female flowers do not yield crops without additional artificial pollination with pollen from other flowers, therefore varieties with a functionally female type of flower, such as Chaush, Pukhlyakovekiy, Moldavsky Black and others, are always planted in a mixture with varieties that have bisexual flowers, and artificially pollinated.

Rice. 2. Types of flowers: 1 - functionally female; 2 - bisexual

The bunch consists of a stem, a comb and berries. Each variety has a bunch of its own size, shape and density.

The berries are also quite different in size, color and shape. Depending on the variety, they can be juicy, dense, crispy, slimy. From above, the berries are covered with a waxy bloom (pruin), which protects against decay and desiccation. The sugar content of the juice in grapes reaches 30 percent.

Vinolrad seeds are small, very dense, yellowish-brown in color. There are 1-4 seeds in the berry. Some varieties (Kishmishi, Korinka) have no seeds.

Development phases of grapes

The vine is a perennial plant. Its life span is calculated in decades (60-80 years or more) and depends on the growing conditions and cultivation methods. The more favorable the conditions for growth and development, the longer the plant will live and bear fruit.

Every year in the life of a grape plant, two alternating periods are observed: the growing season (growth and development) and the period of relative dormancy. During the growing season, shoots, leaves grow, buds are laid, inflorescences and flowers develop. Inside the plant, at this time, the movement of water with mineral nutrients dissolved in it from the roots to the growing aerial parts occurs. The leaves form and accumulate starch and sugar, which are necessary for the growth and development of the entire plant.

After the leaves have fallen off and the visible growth of shoots has ceased, the grape bush goes into a state of relative dormancy. During this period, the plant continues to evaporate water, breathe, organic matter moves and transforms in it, but all this happens very slowly.

The growing season lasts in the conditions of the Rostov and Kamensk regions from April to October and is conventionally divided into 6 phases.

The first phase - sap flow, or "weeping", of the vine begins in the first half of April at a soil temperature of 6-10 degrees. Its duration is from 10 to 20 days. At this time, droplets of liquid appear on the cuts and breaks of open vines. Often, a novice winegrower is concerned about the amount of fluid flowing out (paooki) and the speed of its release. But it should be remembered that this is a natural phenomenon and indicates that the root system is healthy and has begun its vital activity.

With the appearance of the first leaves, which begin to evaporate moisture, "crying" stops.

During this period, you need to dig deep into the vineyard, apply fertilizer, finally cut off the bushes and make a dry garter.

The second phase starts from the moment of budding (at the end of April) and ends at the beginning of May. At this time, the green parts of the bush grow rapidly, shoots often grow by 8-10 centimeters per day.

If the air temperature at the end of April does not drop below 10 degrees for several days, this can accelerate bud opening. In frost-resistant varieties (Metallichesky, Severny, etc.), the buds bloom 5-7 days earlier than in more thermophilic varieties.

Plants in the second phase of development quickly consume moisture and nutrient reserves.

At this time it is necessary to carry out: a fragment of shoots; green garter; pinching the tops of the shoots with a noticeable fall of buds and inflorescences; top dressing 7-10 days before flowering; spraying against mildew, which especially strongly affects young growing leaves and shoots.

The third phase is flowering, it begins at an air temperature of about 18 degrees, in late May-early June, and the lower (located closer to the ground) inflorescences bloom first.

Flowering is a crucial moment on which the harvest depends, and the amateur winegrower at this time should especially carefully monitor the vineyard.

Pollination takes place successfully early in the morning at a temperature of 25-30 degrees in dry weather with little wind. In rain and cold, pollination does not occur, most of the flowers fall off (which is why the clusters are rare) and many small berries are formed (peas). Therefore, if in late May - early June there is rainy cold weather, additional pollination of varieties with bisexual flowers and artificial pollination of varieties with functionally female flowers is necessary. The end of flowering ends the third phase.

The fourth phase runs from June to August. At this time, the growth of shoots slows down and goes mainly in thickness. Shoots begin to ripen (at the base), signs of ripening: brown color and crunch, emitted when bent. The grower must remember that the success of overwintering the bush depends on the good ripening of the shoots. Therefore, by the fourth phase, it is necessary to reduce watering and the introduction of nitrogen fertilizers, which can grod the growth of shoots and slow down their ripening. At this time, fertilizing with potash fertilizers is needed, as they accelerate ripening.

Berries grow rapidly in the fourth phase and by the end of it reach almost normal size. In white varieties, they lose their bright green (herbal) color, and in colored varieties they become pink-black. The sour taste and firmness of the berries are still preserved.

In this phase, using various agrotechnical methods, it is necessary to create the most favorable conditions for the ripening of shoots and the growth of berries.

The fifth phase is the ripening of the bunches. The berries become soft, acquire the color characteristic of the variety, the sugar content quickly rises in them and the acidity decreases.

In the same phase, the growth of shoots stops, but the bush's need for organic substances does not decrease, because they are spent on the accumulation of sugar in the berries and the ripening of shoots, which now extends to their middle part. The fifth phase is also the accumulation of the stock of organic matter in the roots and perennial shoots.

During this period, pinching, chasing, feeding with phosphorus and potassium are necessary. For a wall culture, the walls need to be painted black (in order to better absorb solar heat) and the protection of the bushes from greenhouse frames is needed.

The sixth phase (August-October) begins with the full ripening of the berries and ends with the fall of the leaves. The leaves change color to autumn and fall off after the first autumn frost (natural leaf fall, even in the south of the Rostov region, is extremely rare).

In the sixth phase, all operations on the grape bush are completed, the vines are removed from the trellises, pruned and dropped in for the winter.

The dormant period begins with the fall of leaves and ends with the beginning of sap flow. The transition time to winter rest depends on the terrain, variety and weather conditions.

If the plants have finished growing early and their shoots have matured well, then they tolerate wintering better. This is also facilitated by a uniform decrease in temperature in the sixth phase of the growing season, when the plants are hardened.

On well-warmed southern slopes sheltered from the winds, buds sometimes begin to bloom early - in mid-April, but young shoots often die later from spring frosts. Therefore, the bushes should be sprinkled with a thicker layer of snow in winter, and after the snow has melted - covered with straw or reed mats.

Conditions for growth and development

The vine can grow normally, develop and give good yields only if there is sufficient heat, light and nutrition, which it receives from the soil.

Warmly... The heat demand of the grapes is different for each phase of development. In early spring, the buds begin to awaken at an average daily temperature of about 10 degrees; during the flowering period, the best temperature is considered to be 25-30 degrees, and if it falls below 15 degrees, fertilization does not occur. For the ripening of berries and the accumulation of sugar in them, 28-32 degrees are needed; if the temperature is below 15 degrees, sugar does not accumulate, and the acidity does not decrease. Therefore, in the northern regions, grapes cannot reach such a high sugar content as in the south, but in years with hot summers it turns out to be sweeter and more aromatic.

The aboveground and underground parts of the grape bush during the dormant period and during the growing season are demanding differently on heat. So, during the growing season, an increase in temperature above 37 degrees or falling below 10 degrees has a bad effect on the plant, and one degree of frost is enough to destroy the green parts of the bush. During the period of winter dormancy, such a temperature is not dangerous. In winter, the buds of European varieties die at 16-18 degrees of frost, and the roots - at 5-7 degrees of frost. Frosts with wind are especially dangerous in the absence of snow cover. In summer, the sharp transitions from cold to warm are very harmful to the vineyards, they cause sunburn. This happens, for example, with a belated garter of young shoots that were previously in the shade.

Each grape variety requires a certain amount of heat to ripen. Depending on this, all varieties are subdivided into very early, early, medium, late and very late.

In the Rostov and Kamensk regions, all varieties ripen, with the exception of very late ones, which can only yield in years with a warm, prolonged autumn.

Light... Grapes are a light-loving plant. With insufficient illumination, his internodes lengthen; leaves become pale, grow poorly and fall off quickly; the yield is declining; berries lose their taste and color. Therefore, grapes should not be planted under the crowns of fruit trees, near walls facing north, in narrow spans between houses. The best place for a vine bush is where it can get more light. If necessary, you need to arrange high trellises (4-6 meters or more), lifting them above the roof of the building or a fence.

A sharp change in lighting harms plants, one should not be late with the opening of grape bushes, since in this case part of the buds that have blossomed in the ground can die not only from a sharp change in temperature, but also from a sharp transition from darkness to bright light.

Humidity... With a lack of moisture in the soil, the vine grows and develops slowly, the shoots ripen poorly. As a result, the bush can freeze out in winter and is easily damaged by pests and diseases.

But too much moisture is also harmful. With an excess of moisture, the roots develop slowly, the flowers are not fully fertilized, the shoots continue to grow until the very frost and ripen poorly, the berries rot.

For normal growth and development of grape bushes, you need 400-700 millimeters of precipitation per year, and it should be noted that not all types of precipitation are equally useful.Showers and hail, for example, are even harmful, as they break the shoots, cut off the leaves and, without soaking the soil to a considerable depth, quickly drain and wash away the upper most fertile soil. Long, drizzling rains are favorable, they slowly but deeply moisten the earth.

The rains are especially useful before flowering (in mid-May), after flowering, when all parts of the bush grow rapidly, and in late autumn after the end of the growing season. Winter precipitation moistens the soil well, so in winter it is necessary to strive for the greatest possible accumulation of snow in the vineyard, and in spring - to the retention of melt water.

Grapes can grow and develop well without precipitation if the groundwater is shallow - closer than 5 meters from the soil surface.

Air humidity is also important. If it is insufficient, the work of the leaves deteriorates (evaporation and the formation of organic matter) and pollination of flowers is poor. Sudden changes in air humidity are dangerous for plants.

Wind, depending on its strength and direction, can have a positive or negative effect on the vine. After rain, the wind is useful, because, quickly drying the bushes, protects them from possible mildew infection. A gentle breeze is essential during pollination. A strong wind causes only harm: it breaks shoots, breaks off leaves and inflorescences, dries up the soil and plants. Moreover, it can significantly reduce the air temperature in the vineyard.

For planting grape bushes, one should (especially in the northern regions) prefer places protected from the wind. For this purpose, it is good to plant fruit trees and bushes along the borders of the personal plot.

The soil... The vine can grow in a variety of soils. The best are light, with a high content of coarse sand, gravel, pebbles. These soils easily allow moisture and air to pass through, reduce evaporation, warm up well and cool slowly, they are easier to cultivate, but we must remember that they are poor in nutrients necessary for the plant and require fertilization.

Clay soils (heavy) have the opposite properties: they do not allow water and air to pass through well, evaporate water strongly, warm up poorly and cool quickly, and are difficult to process. In such soils, you need to apply a large amount of manure and other organic fertilizers.

Only swampy and saline soils are completely unsuitable for grapes.

Selection of varieties

There are a lot of varieties of cultural grapes, in the USSR there are about 2 thousand of them. All varieties differ in fruit quality, heat requirements, ripening time, vigor of growth, resistance against adverse weather conditions, against pests, diseases, etc. A novice vine grower should be able to choose the right varieties for his area.

The varieties are early maturing, but with late ripening shoots (Central Asian varieties) are not suitable for culture in the Rostov and Kamensk regions. Here varieties are needed that end early growth and give well-ripened shoots. These include frost-resistant Michurin hybrids with Amur grapes, varieties bred by EI Zakharova, Ya. I. Potapenko and other breeders, and a number of European varieties.

An amateur winegrower should select varieties in such a way as to have fresh grapes from July to January-February, that is, to take varieties of different ripening periods.

In the Rostov and Kamensk regions, you can grow varieties of different ripening periods, but be sure to cover them for the winter. Michurin and frost-resistant varieties can grow without shelter, so they should be used for arranging gazebos, alleys, arches and for wall culture.

The assortment of grapes will also depend on the presence of walls of different locations on the garden plot. The early varieties are planted near the eastern and western walls, the later ones are planted near the southern, southwestern and southeastern ones. Northern grape culture walls should be avoided or trellis placed above them.

When choosing varieties, one should not forget about the type of flower. Varieties with a functionally female type of flower, as already mentioned, should be planted alternating with pollinating varieties. A row of pollinators are planted through a row or two rows of the pollinated variety.

Below is a brief description of the varieties recommended for planting in personal plots in the Rostov and Kamensk regions.

Trellis varieties

The varieties recommended for trellis culture are frost-resistant, they must be covered for the winter.

Galan is a late table variety. The bushes are vigorous, high-yielding, the vine ripens well.

The leaves are dark green, large, five-lobed, folded in the form of a funnel, with a bubbly surface. The flower is bisexual. The clusters are beautiful, rather large, broadly conical, often with a wing. The berries are large, greenish-white, with a thick skin and juicy pulp. They are well stored and do not suffer during transportation.

Saba pearls are a very early nutmeg variety. In areas sheltered from the winds and on rich soils with sufficient moisture, it gives high yields. Very responsive to the introduction of organic fertilizers and fertilizing. On lean soils, the bushes should not be overloaded with brushes. Shoots ripen well. The beginning of fruiting is from the third year after planting. It is also used for potting.

Leaves are of medium size, almost whole, with a plate curved in the form of a funnel. The flower is bisexual. The clusters are medium, conical or cylindrical-conical, of medium density. The berries are medium-sized, round, greenish-white, with a golden color on the sunny side (tan). The skin is thin, which is why the berries are severely damaged by birds, wasps and flies. The pulp is tender with a delicate nutmeg aroma.

Queen of the Vineyards (sometimes incorrectly called Early Caraburnu). A little still widespread nutmeg variety with a beautiful bunch and large berry. Vigorous. With an excess of moisture, stepchildren appear in abundance, and the quality of the fruit deteriorates. In low places, with the lush growth of the bush, the berries crack and rot. High quality berries are obtained on light (sandy and sandy) soils, in sheltered from the north and well-lit areas. The variety is very photophilous, so you need to plant it in open places or arrange high trellises. On fertile moist soils, the berries ripen a little later and their quality is worse. Fruiting from the third or fourth year after planting.

Leaves of medium and above-average size, five-lobed, whole to deeply dissected, shiny. The flower is bisexual. The bunches are dense, cylindrical-conical, of medium density. The berries are very large, golden, round or oval. The skin is thin but quite firm. The pulp is firm, with a very pleasant taste.

Black kishmish is a seedless variety used fresh and for drying. Bushes vigorous, with well-ripening shoots. The yield is high.

Leaves are of medium size, five-lobed, strongly wavy, with upward curled edges. The flower is bisexual. The bunches are large (up to 40 centimeters in length), elongated conical, of medium density. Berries are oval, medium size. The skin is not thick, the flesh is fleshy.

Good for drying and White Kishmish, as well as its varieties - pink and oval, ripening a little later than White Kishmish.

Hungarian Muscat is an excellent quality table variety of early ripening. The bushes are of medium vigor, the ripening of the shoots is good. In the first growing season (before ripening) it requires a lot of water, but when ripe, even a slight excess of moisture leads to cracking of the berries and their decay. The cultivar is sensitive to mildew and requires careful spraying. It is also used for potting.

Leaves are of medium size, three-lobed, rounded, slightly dissected, somewhat funnel-shaped, leathery. The flower is bisexual. Bunches of medium size, conical, medium density. Berries can be of different sizes - from medium to large, round, greenish-yellow, "with a tan".The skin is thick, incapable of stretching (which is why the berries crack when there is an excess of moisture), the flesh is very dense and crunchy. Nice nutmeg lromat.

Early VIRa is one of the best early table varieties. Bred by M.I.Negrul and M.S. Zhuravel. Distributed mainly in Central Asia, but also promising for the Rostov and Kamensk regions. The variety is fruitful, vigorous, with well-ripening shoots.

The leaves are large, ovoid, light green, strongly dissected, five-lobed, with dense bristly pubescence. The flower is bisexual. The clusters are large, cylindrical-conical or cylindrical, of medium density and dense. The berries are large, oval, yellowish-green in color. The skin is thin, the pulp is juicy, with a pleasant taste.

Chaush - takes one of the first places among the early table varieties. Vigorous bushes with very large beautiful leaves and well-ripening shoots. The flower is functionally feminine. Good pollinators for him are Chasselas, Senso and others. Fruiting from the fourth year after planting.

The clusters are large, cylindrical-conical, of medium density (with good pollination). The fruits are very large, oval, greenish-white with a yellow tinge. The skin is thin, edible. The pulp is juicy. The taste is fresh, distinctive. The best quality berries are obtained on light sandy and sandy loam soils.

A variety of Chaush is the Damascus rose, which has a beautiful pink berry and ripens somewhat later.

Swim (on the Don known as White Round) is a mid-late wine variety. Its yield is very high, in low places with the proximity of groundwater, it sharply increases. The berries are used to make simple table wines and juices. Mildew is severely damaged in rainy years.

The leaves are rather large, round, slightly dissected. The pubescence of the leaf is dense, cobweb, which makes the leaf appear gray. The flower is bisexual. Clusters of medium size, cylindrical or cylindrical-conical, sometimes with a wing, very dense. The berries are medium-sized, round, greenish-white, tender, with a thin skin and watery flesh.

Pukhlyakovsky. Late, fruitful, vigorous variety with large oval berries of good taste. Begins to bear fruit in the third or fourth year. It is used for fresh consumption and for the preparation of wine, juices and marinades. Very easy to transport and easy to transport. The flower type is functionally female. The best pollinator is Chasselas, but it can also be pollinated by other bisexual varieties.

Hamburg muscat. Medium late nutmeg variety with large oval berries, bisexual flower. Productivity is inconstant. Grows well on warm southern and southwestern slopes with light soils. Fruiting from the third or fourth year. Not hardy enough. Good sweet wines, jams and marinades are made from berries.

Moldavian black. Medium late yielding variety with large oval black berries. It works best on rich chernozem and sandy loam soils with a close location of groundwater. It starts bearing fruit in the third year. Very easy to transport and easy to transport. Good for making marinades, preserves. The flower is functionally female, pollinated by various bisexual varieties.

Bulany. Widespread in the Don, very productive table variety. The flower is bisexual. Berries are black, beautiful, of medium size, the best taste is obtained on alluvial black earth soils. Fruiting from the third year. Transportable. It can also be used for making wine.

Portugieser. High-yielding table and wine variety. The flower is bisexual. The berries are medium-sized, round, black. Begins to bear fruit in the third year. Suitable for making juices. The quality of berries increases on light clayey and sandy loam chernozems, in places well warmed by the sun.

Muscat of Alexandria. High quality late variety. The flower is bisexual. Begins to bear fruit in the third or fourth year.The berries are large, oval, golden in color, with a pleasant taste and a characteristic nutmeg aroma. They are consumed fresh, good raisins are prepared and jam is made. The bush requires careful maintenance and protection from fungal diseases.

Karaburnu. Late high quality, fairly productive white table variety. The flower is bisexual. Begins to bear fruit in the third or fourth year. Large elegant bunches and berries with crispy flesh make it indispensable for the table. Suitable for making jam. Bunches remain hanging on green ridges for a long time. Resistance to fungal diseases is average.

Varieties for gazebos, arches and alleys

Lydia is a high-yielding (Isabella type) late-ripening variety. The berries are consumed fresh, and sweet wines and juices are made from them. Grown against walls, it often yields 40-50 kilograms per bush. The variety is moisture-loving, so it is better to plant it in places where groundwater exits. Not affected by mildew and powdery mildew. In the Rostov and Kamensk regions, this variety can be recommended for a semi-covering culture (dusting the trunk and the bases of the sleeves with earth). Lydia can also be grown in pots.

The leaves are large, three-lobed, light green. The flower is bisexual. It blooms a little earlier than European varieties. The clusters are small, conical, loose or of medium density. The berries are large, dark pink. In shaded areas, they do not acquire their characteristic beautiful color. The skin is detached in the form of a pouch. The pulp is slimy with a very pleasant strawberry aroma. Fruiting from the third year after planting.

Rice. 3. A bush of Lydia grapes grown at the fence in a multi-tiered form

Metal. A frost-resistant, fairly productive variety obtained by IV Michurin. Fruiting usually begins in the third year after planting. Bushes of medium size. It is undemanding to soil and relief, but on soils of light (sandy loam and sandy) southern location it ripens a little earlier.

Leaves are of medium size, five-lobed, slightly wavy, rounded. The flower is bisexual. The clusters are small, cylindrical or cylindrical-conical, dense. The berries are medium-sized or small, rounded, red with a bronze tint. The pulp is slimy. The disadvantage of the variety is the rough, inedible skin.

Russian concord. (Bred by IV Michurin.) It is consumed fresh, but it is also good for making juice. The bushes are distinguished by high frost resistance, strong growth, good ripening of shoots, high productivity (with normal pollination). Begins to bear fruit from the third year after planting.

The leaves are large, three-lobed (sometimes almost whole), rounded in outline, with a slightly wavy surface and less colored underside of the plate. The flower is functionally feminine. The best pollinators are Black Sweet and Metallic. Bunches of medium size, cylindrical. The density of the bunch depends on the pollination conditions. The berries are large, red, round. The peel is of medium thickness, easily torn. The pulp is juicy, fleshy-slimy, with a slight strawberry flavor.

Dawn of the North. (Bred by Ya. I. Potapenko and EI Zakharova.) Bushes of medium vigor, high yield, with well-ripening shoots. Ripens much earlier than non-frost-resistant varieties. Quite resistant to mildew. Fruiting from the second or third year after planting.

The leaves are small, three-, less often five-lobed with a reticulate-wrinkled surface. The flower is functionally feminine. The best pollinators for the variety are European-Amur hybrids. Bunches of medium size, conical or cylindrical, dense or medium density. The berries are medium-sized, round, black, with a strong waxy bloom; they store sugar well. The pulp is juicy, slightly crispy, the combination of sugar and acid is harmonious.

Northern. (Bred by Ya. I. Potapenko and EI Zakharova.) The variety is winter-hardy, productive, ripens earlier than non-frost-resistant varieties. Bushes vigorous, early ripening of shoots.The ability to easily store sugar makes the variety suitable for the production of sweet wines. Fruiting from the second or third year after planting.

Leaves are of medium size, whole, less often three-lobed, slightly elongated. The flower is functionally feminine. The best pollinators are European-Amur hybrids. The clusters are small or medium-sized, conical or winged, loose. The berries are small or medium, dark blue, rounded. The pulp is juicy with a weak aroma.

Pot cultivars

The varieties recommended for potting can also grow successfully in open ground, provided they are sheltered for the winter.

Chasselas (white and pink). High quality common variety. The berries are round, medium-sized. They are consumed fresh and used for making juices. They ripen early and give consistently high yields. The flower is bisexual. In the ground, it bears fruit since the third year.

Senso. An early high-yield table variety. The berries are black, large, oval, beautiful, with good taste. The bush is not resistant enough to mildew. The flower is bisexual. In soil culture, it bears fruit from the third year.

Madeleine Angevin. A very early table variety. Its negative qualities are a functionally feminine type of flower and sensitivity to mildew. Requires artificial pollination. It is well pollinated by Chasselas, Lydia, Senso and other bisexual varieties. The berries are medium-sized, white, of good taste, but have a thin skin and are damaged by flies. In the ground, it bears fruit since the third year.

Malengr early. Very early fruitful variety. Begins to bear fruit from the second year. Develops quite a few fertile stepchildren. Berries of medium size.

Vineyard

Cultivation of planting material. The vineyard can be planted with seedlings or unrooted cuttings (shanks). However, the best planting material is seedlings. Grape bushes grown from seedlings develop better in the early years, begin to bear fruit faster, and are more resistant to frost and drought.

A small grape school, that is, a plot on which grape seedlings are grown, is not difficult to arrange in any farm. To do this, you need to choose a small area with fertile soil near a well, water supply or pool, well lit throughout the day. The site must be well dug in the fall.

Cuttings can be purchased on the side or prepared "on your farm from well-developed fruitful bushes. They do it this way: during the autumn pruning of vines, cuttings are selected and during the winter they are stored sprinkled with wet sand in a basement or pit. The storage temperature of cuttings should not exceed plus 6 degrees, the best is considered to be about 0 degrees (-2, +2). Drying of cuttings should not be allowed, as this sharply reduces their survival rate.

For the rapid rooting of cuttings in the school and the normal development of plants, a special pre-planting preparation of cuttings is recommended - kilchevanie. Whitish nodules (callus) and tubercles-primordia of roots are formed at the lower ends of the cuttings.

The simplest way of kilchevaya is as follows: 3-4 weeks before planting in the school, the cuttings are dug up, sorted, cut from below under the very knot and tied into bundles so that all the lower ends are at the same level. Then the cuttings are soaked for 1-2 days in water and placed in a hole tightly to each other with the lower ends up. The size of the pit depends on the length and number of cuttings being cut. Slightly wet sand is poured at the bottom of it, and the cuttings are covered with a layer of humus earth (8-10 centimeters) on top, then with fresh manure (25-30 centimeters), and then again with earth (3-5 centimeters). It is desirable that the manure layer occupy an area 1.5 times larger than the surface of the pit. At night and on cool days, the pit with cuttings should be covered with glazed frames, mats or some kind of insulating material.

When kilchevaya, you need to especially carefully monitor the temperature under the layer of manure, where the ends of the cuttings are located.If the temperature starts to rise above 28-30 degrees, you need to reduce the layer of manure and compact the remaining one. In the event that the temperature does not reach above 13-15 degrees, you need to water the manure with good water or add fresh hot manure and insulate the pit well.

Usually, at a temperature of 20-25 degrees in 12-15 days, kilchevanie ends.

As soon as the soil warms up well, they start planting the cuttings in the school. The best planting time is the last decade of April.

Cuttings are planted in prepared ditches, the soil of which is loosened to a depth of 60-70 centimeters. The planting technique is as follows: the soil in the ditch is mixed with humus at the rate of 1 part of the earth to 2 parts of humus. The cuttings are set along the ditch wall to a depth of 30-35 centimeters and 10-12 centimeters apart. The top 1-2 eyes should be 10-12 centimeters above the soil surface. Then the ditch is filled up to half, the ground near the cuttings is trampled down and watered at the rate of 2-3 buckets per running meter. When the water is absorbed, the groove is covered to the top with earth, and the ends of the cuttings are covered with loose moist earth with a layer of 3 centimeters.

During the summer, the school is loosened 4-5 times, weeded and watered 3-5 times.

In order for the plants to grow faster, they need to be fed before the first two waterings (in June and July) with diluted slurry or a solution of any nitrogen fertilizer (ammonium sulfate or ammonium nitrate at the rate of 15-20 grams per square meter). In early August, for better ripening of the shoots, phosphorus-potassium supplementation is needed (superphosphate 20-30 grams and potassium salt - 10-15 grams per square meter).

In years with a relatively cold and rainy summer, for better ripening of the shoots, pinching and chasing the tops are recommended (see the chapter "Fragment, pinching, chasing").

By the end of summer, the seedlings in the school take root and are usually ready for planting in a permanent place.

In order to damage the roots of seedlings as little as possible when digging from the school and to facilitate this laborious work, you need to dig a ditch 45-50 centimeters deep on one side of the row at a distance of 15-20 centimeters from the plants. Then, on the opposite side of the row, cut the plants with a bayonet shovel and roll them into the ditch with a lump of earth. Saplings are selected by hand, shake off the earth from them and tied in bundles according to varieties.

Seedlings intended for autumn planting are temporarily sprinkled with moist earth, and those that will be planted in spring are placed in a basement or pit for winter storage.

If there is little planting material and it is obtained from very valuable varieties, seedlings can be grown from 1-2-eyed cuttings. However, the technique of planting and caring for plants here is more complicated and requires a lot of attention, experience and strict adherence to the recommended techniques from the grower.

It is better to grow seedlings from 1-2-eyed cuttings in boxes or small greenhouses and only as a last resort - in the open field on well-prepared ridges. The latter method gives slightly worse results.

When cutting one-eyed cuttings, the lower cut under the very node is made oblique, directed in the opposite direction from the eye. A part of the internode 2-3 centimeters long should remain above the upper eye. The shortened cuttings must be pumped, and then planted in boxes with a layer of sand at the bottom of the box 8-10 centimeters, and above the upper ends of the cuttings - 12-14 centimeters. The temperature during kielchevka during the first 3-4 days is 12-15 degrees Celsius, and in the next 12-14 days - 20-25 degrees. One-eyed cuttings can be germinated in boxes in an inclined position under a layer of sand of 1 centimeter. After the formation of sagging at the lower ends and roots, the cuttings are planted in paper cups or small flowerpots (flower pots). For filling cups and flowerpots, prepare a mixture of 1 part of sod soil, 1 part of humus and 1 part of sand.

Plant care consists in loosening the soil, weeding and maintaining the necessary soil moisture.

After the frost has passed, the rooted plants, along with a lump of earth, trying not to disturb the root system, are planted in open ground.

When growing seedlings from shortened cuttings directly in the open field, cuttings are planted in well-processed ridges so that the upper eye is 2 centimeters below the soil surface. The planted cuttings are first covered with earth, and then with a layer of sand or chopped straw. In the first days after planting, you need to water the cuttings every other day or two days, after rooting - after one to two weeks, and at the end of the growing season - twice a month. If the seedlings are left for the winter in the ridges, it is necessary to carefully cover them with soil with straw, reeds, etc. First, put a layer of straw 10 centimeters, then the earth - 10-15 centimeters, and on top of the manure - 3-5 centimeters.

For the propagation of rare varieties, the Chinese layering method is used. It is very simple and produces many well-developed seedlings. For the Chinese layering, a vine is taken from the mother bush and laid, without plucking out the eyes, into a groove 15 centimeters deep, pinned with twigs and covered with 5-6 centimeters of loose fertile soil mixed with humus, and watered well. During the summer, the cuttings are watered twice a month, the soil is loosened and the shoots are sprayed.

As the shoots grow, the groove is filled up. By autumn, each node has a root system and well-developed shoots (Fig. 4). In the second half of October, the layers are dug up, cut off from the mother bush, cut into pieces (one node in each) and used as planting material.

Rice. 4. Chinese layering

Even better results are obtained when the cuttings are not laid directly in the ground, but in baskets or boxes buried next to the mother bush. In this case, the entire root system of the seedlings is completely preserved, and they root very quickly during transplantation.

Choosing a landing site... When choosing a place for planting seedlings, one should remember the requirements that grapes place on the place of cultivation and the soil (see the chapter "Conditions for growth and development"). In addition, it should be noted that planting grapes close to trees should not be, since their roots dry out and impoverish the soil around the grape bushes. Avoid areas where water stagnates in early spring, where the soil is saline. Do not plant grapes in the immediate vicinity of garbage pits and stalls for domestic animals.

If there is no free area at the house, grapes are grown in the form of a single-row trellis along hedges or paths, near the walls of residential and outbuildings. The wall grape culture even has advantages over the open field grape culture. The walls of the buildings well protect the vine bushes from strong winds, and due to the sun's rays reflected by the walls, the plants receive an additional amount of light and heat. This contributes to the fact that near the walls the berries ripen earlier, have a more attractive appearance and high taste. As mentioned earlier, walls facing south, southwest, west and southeast are more desirable for a wall culture.

In general, any place, any soil on a personal plot can be made suitable for growing grapes, you just need to prepare the site with proper soil cultivation.

Arrangement of vine pavilions, galleries, arches is possible not only on the estate, but also in the courtyards of institutions, factories, in city gardens, squares.

Winter-hardy vines can also be put on individual trees.

Soil preparation... Proper soil preparation is one of the main conditions for good development, quick entry into fruiting and longevity of grape and bushes.

If there are remnants of old stumps, pits, stones, construction debris, etc. on the garden plot.etc., it is necessary, first of all, to clear and level the area allotted for the vineyard, and then start digging the soil. Sometimes it is very compacted (and this makes it difficult for water and air to pass through), poor in nutrients, and in other cases it even contains substances that are harmful to the roots of the plant (for example, a large amount of lime). In such areas, the soil must be radically improved: to add manure, humus, sand, crushed stone, etc. Sometimes the soil in the planting pits is completely replaced.

The best way to prepare the soil is a continuous deep digging (plantation), in which the upper, most fertile layer is moved down, and the lower, depleted, up.

Digging is carried out as follows. The plot allocated for the vineyard is divided into strips 100-120 centimeters wide and each strip is dug up separately. They begin by digging a ditch with a depth of at least 60 centimeters for the entire length and width of the first strip. All the removed earth is thrown to the surface, with the upper layer in one place, and the lower layer in another. When the first ditch is dug, they start digging the second to the same depth. The top layer of soil is now poured to the bottom of the first ditch, and the bottom layer is on top. The second ditch is followed by the third, and so on. Gradually digging up strip after strip, the soil layers are moved throughout the entire area.

In addition to continuous digging in the described way, digging is done in separate strips - tapes. In this case, the site is divided into strips, in width equal to the distances between the rows of the future planting. In each strip, a ditch is dug for planting grapes 80-90 wide and at least 60 centimeters deep. The not dug part of the strip will serve as a row spacing. The movement of soil layers during belt digging is done in the same way as in continuous digging: when digging the first ditch, the soil of the upper and lower layers is placed separately on the surface, when digging the second, it is transferred to the first, and the third to the second.

With deep digging, rotted manure is introduced at the bottom of the ditches at the rate of 3-4 kilograms per square meter.

In those cases when they want to plant only a few bushes on the site or place them in one row along the walls of residential and outbuildings, fences, paths, verandas, a blind digging of the soil can be replaced with partial - in the places of planting. On dense, depleted soils, to improve their nutritional properties, it is especially necessary to apply manure or humus, as well as coarse sand, gravel, and sometimes stones. These materials are poured into the bottom of a ditch or pit with a layer of 15-20 centimeters, mixed well with fertile soil and only after that they are sealed.

Planting holes, dug separately, must be at least one meter long and wide, and the same depth as the ditches (at least 60 centimeters). The width and length of the planting holes in the area where the complete digging was carried out can be 35-40 centimeters.

For a wall culture, ditches or pits are dug at a distance of at least 20-25, and preferably even 50 centimeters from the wall.

For spring planting, the soil is prepared in autumn, and for autumn planting - 1-2 months before planting. During this time, the cultivated soil will settle, and in winter it will be saturated with water. For the winter, ditches and pits are left uncovered by one third, from which they are filled with snow and are better moistened.

Landing... Planting grapes with seedlings in the Rostov and Kamensk regions can be done both in autumn and spring. However, on sandy and. sandy loam soils of autumn planting should be avoided, as in cold winters these soils freeze to a great depth.

It is impossible to be late with planting seedlings, it must be produced as early as possible in spring and finished before bud break. Seedlings can take root in a little warmed up soil, but dry hot weather, which sets in early in spring, greatly impairs rooting.

The preparation of planting material is started as soon as the planting holes are dug.The roots of the seedlings are soaked in fresh, not too cold water for 1-2 days. After that, they are carefully examined and all damaged ones are removed.

Roots are left only on the two lower nodes, and all those located above are removed. This promotes the development of roots in deep soil layers, where they are less damaged by frost. The ends of the left roots are refreshed, and too long are cut by 20-25 centimeters. 1-2 most developed shoots are selected, cleaned of antennae and stepchildren and cut into 3-5 buds (Fig. 5).

Rice. 5. Saplings: 1 - dug out of the school; 2 - prepared for landing

Having prepared the seedlings, they begin planting. At the bottom of the planting pit, a small mound is made and a sapling is placed on this mound, after dipping the roots with a chatterbox of 2 parts of clay and 1 part of a mullein.

When planting near buildings or stone walls, the seedlings are installed obliquely in the hole, and near wooden fences - in the usual way (Fig. 6).

Rice. 6. Planting seedlings against the wall and fence

To enhance plant growth in the first year after planting, it is recommended to apply mineral fertilizers to the planting pits at the rate of 45-60 grams of superphosphate and 35 grams of potassium salt for each pit. These fertilizers are premixed with double the amount of soil and mixed evenly with the soil at the bottom of the planting pit.

When planting varieties that require shelter for the winter, the seedling is placed in the planting hole so that its upper eye is 5-10 centimeters below the soil surface. Seedlings of winter-hardy varieties can be planted smaller.

All the roots in the pit are straightened and evenly distributed over the mound. The pit is covered with half fertile loose soil, well compacted around the plant and 10-20 liters of water are poured into the pit. When the water is absorbed, the hole, without trampling anymore, is completely filled up and a mound is made 5-10 centimeters in height to protect the kidneys from drying out.

When planting in autumn, the seedlings are not pruned, but, having planted, they are well covered with straw, reeds or weeds, and then with earth.

It is necessary to plant grapes with cuttings in the spring, when the soil warms up well (approximately April 15-25). At this time, the buds swell in the vineyards. The roots of cuttings begin to appear when the soil temperature at a depth of 25 centimeters reaches plus 10-12 degrees.

Cuttings should also be prepared in advance: soak in water for 2-3 days, cut the lower end under the very node, and leave 2-3 centimeters of internode above the top. Before planting, a furrow is made, that is, the bark of the two lower internodes is scratched with a garden saw. The inflow of nutrients to the injured sites is increased, which accelerates the development of roots. Kilchevny cuttings take root faster.

Rice. 7. Planting a seedling

On deeply cultivated soil, cuttings can be planted under scrap. To do this, a hole is made to the desired depth with a crowbar, a cutting is inserted into it, half covered with fertile soil, tamped around the cutting and watered. After that, the hole is completely covered up and a mound is made. A stake up to a meter high is placed near the planted plant, to which the developing shoots are tied as they grow.

There is also a method of planting vineyards with elongated cuttings, which should be widely used in home garden viticulture. The advantage of this method is that a large supply of nutrients in elongated cuttings provides almost 100% of their survival rate. Developed plants, as a rule, always have a strong root system and grow very well.

For planting with elongated cuttings in the fall, vines up to 150 centimeters long are harvested, tied in bunches and stored in the basement. In the spring, just before planting, the vines are soaked for 6-12 hours in water and, for better root formation, they pluck out (blind) the eyes on the part of the vine that will be laid in the hole. Then the vine is given a ring-like appearance, for which it is wrapped around a log, hemp or bucket and tied in 2-3 places with a washcloth.A rolled-up and connected vine is placed on the bottom of the planting pit, and the upper end of the vine with two healthy eyes is brought up and tied to a pre-set stake so that the upper eye is at the level of the soil surface.

You can plant grapes with elongated cuttings when the bush is formed in the form of a "Don bowl". Usually, in this case, 4 seedlings are planted in one planting hole measuring one meter by one meter, but a vine 130-150 centimeters long is also used.

Many winegrowers on the Don land with elongated cuttings in a slightly different way. Vines with unblinded heads, tied in a ring, are laid horizontally in a pit and covered with earth by 8-10 centimeters, and on top with straw by 10-12 centimeters. The straw cover helps to retain moisture in the soil. Due to the fact that the soil layer is small, the pit heats up well and air exchange is easier in it. Rooting occurs quickly, and several shoots appear at the same time. In the fall, the grown shoots are placed in a pit, and the top is covered with straw, hay and other materials. Over the next 2-3 years, the pit (is gradually filled with earth. Thus, a deepened planting is obtained due to one-year growth.

Caring for planted plants... Having planted seedlings or cuttings, the grower should strive to get strong, healthy plants in the first year. This requires watering, fertilizing, loosening the soil, pest and disease control.

The first watering is carried out 2-3 weeks after planting, the second - a month after the first and the third - in mid-August. Before watering, holes are made around the plants with a depth of 15-20, a width of 10-15 centimeters. After watering, the holes should be covered with earth and sprinkled (mulched) on the soil surface with rotted manure or humus. Simultaneously with the second watering, in June or early July, top dressing is applied with a solution of slurry, bird droppings, feces and other fertilizers.

For top dressing, organic fertilizers are fermented and diluted with water. They do it in the following way. The slurry is diluted 2-3 times with water before application. An infusion is preliminarily prepared from fresh manure; for this, 1 part of the manure is poured with 2 parts of water and the mixture is allowed to ferment for 7-10 days. The fermented liquid is diluted 2-3 times before addition.

Poultry droppings are diluted with water 10-15 days before application (1 part of droppings to 2 parts of water), fermented, and before addition, diluted again by adding 4-5 buckets of water to each bucket of solution.

Feces are prepared in the same way as poultry droppings.

The soil should be constantly kept loose and free from weeds. In spring and summer, in order to protect plants from mildew, at least 3-4 sprays with Bordeaux mixture are necessary.

An important agrotechnical technique for caring for young plants is katarovka, that is, pruning on a stem, icke of the upper roots. It is carried out as follows: in the second, third and fourth years after planting in early spring, deep holes are made around the bushes (20-25 centimeters) and all upper roots are cut with a knife or pruner. When watering and mulching, the holes can be left open until autumn. This technique significantly improves the access of air and heat to the depth of the calcaneal roots, which contributes to their better development. If the summer is dry and it is difficult to water the grapes, the holes should be closed when catarovka.

Vineyard care

Arrangement of supports for bushes. Perennial branches and shoots must be positioned in such a way that they will receive enough light and air. Therefore, in the second year after planting, supports must be installed for the vines.

The type of supports depends on the placement of plants on the participation of the feeding area, methods of pruning and the formation of bushes.

A non-irrigated vineyard, as well as shrubs planted along walls and paths, is good to grow on a vertical trellis. For its device, pillars with a height of 3-3.5 meters and diameters of 8-10 centimeters are required.They are installed along a row of bushes at a distance of 6 meters from the pillar. 3-4 rows of wire are attached to the pillars: the first row - at a height of 30 centimeters from the soil surface, the second - 40 centimeters from the first, the third and fourth - each every 50 centimeters. In order for the trellis to be firmly stretched (with a length of more than 20 meters), the edge posts must be placed with stops or anchors. Usually, the anchor is a large stone tied with a wire attached to the top of the post and buried in the ground one meter from the base of the post (Figure 8).

Rice. 8. Fastening the edge posts of the trellis: 1 - with a spacer; 2 - 'anchor'

On fertile soils, during irrigation, a two-plane trellis is recommended, which consists of two ordinary ones, installed obliquely to each other. Such a trellis allows you to significantly increase the aboveground part of the bush and increase the access to plants of sunlight, heat and air. And this all contributes to an increase in yield and an improvement in the quality of berries.

With a two-plane trellis, the pillars have a cruciform appearance with two crossbars: the upper one is 1-2 meters long, the lower one is 50 centimeters long. The 2nd and 3rd wires are attached to the ends of the bars; The 1st is attached to the main vertical pillar at a height of 30-35 centimeters from the soil surface.

On a personal plot, the vine can be shaped in the form of a "Don bowl". The support of such bushes is rather difficult. In the third or fourth year after planting, 4 stakes with a height of 1.2-1.3 meters are installed around the bush at a distance of 1.5 meters from its base. Transverse poles or slats are attached to these stakes one meter from the ground. This is the first "bed" for the bush. After a year or two, a second is placed. For this, additional stakes are placed behind the first stakes at a distance of 3 meters from the head of the bush and new transverse crossbars are tied to them at a height of 2 meters from the ground. Thus, the support at the "Don bowl" has the form of two squares - the smaller inner and the larger outer. Sleeves, or lashes, with their ramifications are tied to the poles of the first bed, and fruit arrows and green shoots are tied to the second bed.

When arranging a gazebo, it usually serves as a support for grapes. A binding made of wire or thin poles is pulled onto the base of the gazebo and vines and green shoots are evenly tied to it.

If the grapes are grown near the walls, crutches are driven into the latter and a wire is pulled on them in horizontal rows 0.5 meters a row from the row.

An arch is obtained if a wire is stretched between two buildings or pillars at the desired height and an annual vine is launched along it. Green shoots and bunches under the arch, as well as in the gazebo, hang freely downward, forming a beautiful, shady vault.

Pruning and shaping bushes... Pruning is an important agronomic technique for caring for grapes. With the help of its grape bush give shape and size, favorable for growing vines, convenient for ripening and harvesting. Pruning creates the best conditions for the plant to use heat, air and light.

The task of pruning young plants (up to 3-4 years old) is the formation of a bush and the cultivation of its main perennial parts that bear fruit vines. The purpose of pruning mature bushes is to regulate fruiting in the current year, growing wood of fruiting vines next year, maintaining the shape of the bush, and periodically replacing damaged or obsolete parts.

In grapes, as a rule, fruiting shoots develop from the eyes on last year's vines, but in some varieties (Chasselas, Aligote, Cleret, etc.), clusters can also form on shoots grown on perennial wood - the head of a bush, sleeves, etc. With this in mind, three pruns for fruiting always leave last year's shoots. Shortened to 6-15 eyes, these shoots are called fruit arches or fruit arrows.

Annual vines pruned by 1-4 eyes and intended for growing shoots that will replace the vines that have fruited in the current year are called replacement knots. The replacement knots slow down the elongation of the sleeves, give the bush a composure.

Both fruit arrows and replacement knots are located on perennial main ramifications 35 to 100 centimeters long, called sleeves, lashes, or paws. The shortened sleeves, no more than 30 centimeters long, carrying fruit vines with 1-3 eyes, are called horns.

The fruit arrow and the replacement knot growing on one arm make up the fruit link. The number of fruit links and their location on the bush depend on its shape.

The total number of eyes on the bush (left when pruning), fruitful and sterile shoots (left when broken) and bunches is called the load of the bush.

If in summer weak shoots with short internodes with a large number of small clusters develop on the bush, then the bush was overloaded. On such bushes, a stronger fragment should be carried out, even part of the mushrooms should be removed, and when pruning, leave fewer vines and eyes.

Sometimes the bush bears too thick, strong shoots with very long internodes (12-15 centimeters) - this means that the bush was underutilized and this year the load on it should be increased.

When pruning, the bushes are inflicted with wounds, the tissue around which dies off. If a large number of wounds are inflicted on the bushes for several years in a row, this can lead to the death of individual parts of the bush, to the weakening and even death of whole plants.

To eliminate or reduce the harmful effect of pruning, the following basic rules must be observed:

1. All slices should be on one side of the arm or horn, opposite the replacement knot. The place of the knot is below the fruit arrow on the outside of the sleeve or at the base of it.

The one-sided arrangement of wounds does not interfere with the normal flow of sap in the cut parts of the bush.

2. Cuts on annual vines should be made along the knot, cutting it in half: this protects the eyes located below the cut from drying out and decay.

3. When completely removed, annual shoots or thin sleeves should be cut off at their base, leaving no stumps. When rejuvenating thick sleeves, it is recommended to leave a stump of 2-3 centimeters. The next year, the dried stump is removed to the base ("on the heel").

4. All sections must be smooth. For this purpose, when working with a pruner, a wide cutting blade is turned towards the left part of the vine. Large cuts from the removal of perennial sleeves must be cleaned with a sharp garden knife.

5. Strong shoots should be pruned longer and weak shoots shorter.

In the Rostov and Kamensk regions, where vines are often damaged in winter, it is necessary to prune grape bushes in two terms. In the fall, after the first frosts that kill the leaves, the bushes are pre-pruned, leaving a large supply of vines and eyes. In the spring, after determining the condition of the eyes and wood, a secondary pruning is performed. (The final load of the bushes is set at the breakage, after finding out the fruitfulness of the shoots.) Young bushes and frost-resistant varieties should be cut off mainly in spring.

In places where spring frosts are frequent, grapes should be pruned late - just before bud break, in order to retard development and thereby protect the harvest.

Pruning young bushes... Young plants should not be pruned short (1-2 eyes), as short pruning greatly weakens both the aerial part and the root system. When planting well-developed seedlings, it is recommended to leave not one, but two shoots and cut each one by 2-3 or more eyes. In the second year after planting, when removing any form, shoots should be cut into 4-5 eyes, removing only weakly developed ones.

With good plant care, the growth in the first year after planting can reach 2 meters. In this case, the vines are left 70-80 centimeters long.Bushes with very weak shoots in the second year should not be pruned at all.

From the third year, and with good growth and from the second, the formation of perennial parts (sleeves, lashes, boles) already begins, the size, number and location of which, together with the fruit links, make up one or another form of the bush.

For grape varieties that are sheltered for the winter, planted in an empty place of a personal plot, the best form of a bush is a multi-arm fan. This form of bushes has deservedly become widespread in the practice of viticulture. Its advantages: creation of good conditions for lighting, heating and airing green shoots and bunches; ease of removal, convenience and ease of sheltering bushes for the winter.

Bushes of multi-arm fan-shaped can have from 4 to 8 arms. In vigorous varieties (Pukhlyakovsky, Sibirkovy, Taifi pink, Karaburnu, etc.), and also, if the vineyard is well watered, there may be 6 or more sleeves on the bushes. For varieties with moderate and weak growth (Chasselas, Hungarian Muscat, etc.), 4 sleeves are enough.

In areas with heavy clay soil, where perennial arms and annual vines often dry out from winter damage, the bushes must be formed so that they can replace broken arms and vines every year. The sleeves are replaced by vines growing directly on the head of the bush and on short replacement knots at the base of the sleeves.

The multi-arm fan shape is displayed in the following way. In the second year after planting in the spring, the two best shoots are selected on the bushes and both are pruned by 3-4 eyes. If, in the first year, thick shoots more than a meter long have grown, 1-2 vines are left on the bushes, cut into 6-8 eyes, and 1-2 cut into 3 4 eyes. The lower shoots should be outward and the upper ones inside the bush. In the third year, in the two-year-old parts of the vines, it is necessary to leave in ve, without opening, and cut the 4 best shoots that grew in the previous year into 7-8 eyes (Fig. 9). These shoots go to form sleeves, the eyes on them are not removed, and the developing green shoots are evenly tied to the support. In the fourth year, 4 fruit links are formed on the bush. At the same time, on each two-year-old branch vine, two best shoots are selected, the lower one is cut into 3-4 eyes (per replacement knot), and the upper one - by 8-10 eyes (per fruit arrow). This completes the withdrawal of the four-arm form. For vigorous varieties in the fifth year, you need to form another 2-3 sleeves from the shoots that have developed on the head of the bush (Fig. 10).

Rice. 9. Formation of a fan-shaped bush with the basis of rejuvenation: 1 - in the spring of the second year; 2 - in the spring of the third year

In abundantly watered areas with rich soils, vines grow vigorously and develop well. In this case, the formation of the bushes can be completed 1-2 years earlier.

Rice. 10. Forming for vigorous bushes

After the sleeves and fruit links have been formed, pruning is done as follows: the sprouted arrows are cut off together with a part of the two-year-old vine to the base of the replacement knot. Instead, the two best shoots are selected on the knot, the upper one of which is pruned to the fruit arrow, and the lower one to a new replacement knot.

From the coppice shoots developing at the base of the arms, 2-3 rejuvenation links are formed annually. To do this, the one-year coppice shoot is pruned into 3-4 eyes. In the second year, of the shoots that have developed on it, one is pruned into a twig, the second into an arrow (Fig. 11). In case of death of any sleeve, its excessive elongation or aging, a replacement is formed from the rejuvenation link. If you need a long sleeve, use an arrow, for a short sleeve, use a knot.

Rice. 11. Shaping with a rejuvenating link: 1 - main sleeves; 2 - links of rejuvenation

To make it easier to evenly distribute green shoots on the trellis, the sleeves are formed of various lengths: located inside the bush - up to 50 centimeters, the extreme ones - up to 60-80.The inner sleeves, together with the fruiting arc, are tied to the first wire, the outer ones to the second.

With proper care, fertilization, watering and winter shelter using organic materials, the sleeves can maintain high productivity for over 5-6 years. At the same time, a large amount of perennial wood allows you to create powerful, multi-tiered formations of bushes and use, in addition to trellises, other supports.

In Novocherkassk, Razdorsk, Konstantin, other districts of Rostov and Kamensk regions, an original and beautiful form of the "Don bowl" is used, which makes it possible to get very high yields (more than 50 kilograms) from a bush. This formation resembles a large bowl (hence its name). With this shape, the feeding area of ​​the bushes is 16 square meters. Correctly formed bowl bushes have 8-12 arms, and sometimes only 4 arms with a lot of ramifications, evenly distributed on 4 sides. Sleeves 0.8-1 meter long each have 3-4 arrows, cut into 6-10 buds, they, together with the arrows, are obliquely tied to the support. The neighboring bushes, expanding, are closed by their tops with each other, almost completely shading the soil in the aisles.

"Don bowl" is created as follows: in the spring of the second year of planting, 4 well-developed shoots are left on each of the four bushes (see "Planting", p. 31) and all of them are cut into 4-5 eyes. Developing green shoots are tied to stakes. Pruning of the third year consists in leaving on each last year's vine 2 of the best downstream annual vines, which in the future will be the main arms of the bush. Each of them is cut into 6-8 eyes and tied to the lower rungs or support wires in an inclined position. In the spring of the fourth year, when pruning the bushes, 2 last year's vines are left on each of the sleeves, each cutting off by 8-10 eyes. In the spring of next year and in the future, the grapes are pruned in order to select the best vines for fruiting and the continuation of the life of the bush. To do this, on each two-year-old fruiting vine, as close as possible from its base, leave the 2 best annual shoots and cut them into 6 eyes in bushes with moderate growth and 10 in vigorous ones. Each - the main arm can have 2-3 branches and 4-6 fruit vines.

With this method of forming bushes, another type of support can be used - a two-plane trellis. To do this, all the sleeves of the bushes are evenly distributed on two sides and tied to the lower wires or crossbars of each side. As a result, the rows of bushes represent an inclined trellis deployed on two sides, and the row spacing is an alley formed by two adjacent rows of bushes. The feeding area here is recommended for low-growing varieties 2.5x2.5 meters, for vigorous ones - 3x3 meters.

To prevent the sleeves from lengthening too quickly, replacement knots should be left on them, as in the multi-arm fan shape. With excessive elongation and aging of the sleeves, the rejuvenation of the bushes is performed due to the shoots developing from the dormant eyes of perennial wood. Having formed a new sleeve, the old one is removed.

You can choose the methods of formation and pruning for frost-resistant varieties more freely. However, even for them, whether it is an oversized planting, a separate bush against the wall or a gazebo, multi-stem forms should be preferred. These forms are easy to breed, and with them it is easy to replace some parts of the bush with others without causing significant damage to the plant.

It is necessary to dwell in somewhat more detail on pruning of new European-Amur hybrids, the methods of managing the bushes of which are still little known to a wide circle of amateur winegrowers.

The Zarya Severa variety is distinguished by moderate growth, therefore, a feeding area of ​​2x1.5-1.25 meters is sufficient for it. When pruning this variety, the bushes should not be overloaded; on average, no more than 20 fruitful shoots should be left per bush. Fruit vines should be cut into 7-8 eyes.

Northern grapes and its pollinators (European-Amur hybrids) can be placed with a feeding area of ​​2x2 and even 2.5x2.5 meters. It is recommended to cut fruit arrows here by 10-12 eyes, and leave fruitful shoots at 30-40 per bush.

All these varieties give high yields and completed clusters only with careful breaking of all sterile shoots and repeated pinching.

The best form for frost-resistant hybrids in culture with decorative and economic purposes (planting along walls, arbors, alleys) is multi-stem (4-6-arm) with 2-3-tier arrangement of fruit vines. Each sleeve can have several branches tied to the first, second and third wires (Fig. 12).

Rice. 12. Multi-sleeve bunk form

In this case, the fruit links can be without replacement knots, but have two fruit arrows, since when pruning, the main attention is paid to the selection of the strongest, correctly and favorably located shoots. The sleeves, with their very strong elongation and weakening of the growth of shoots on them, rejuvenate or reduce due to the lower links and coppice shoots.

For arbors and arches, bushes can be grown without a strict pruning system. Annual pruning here consists in clearing the bushes from weak, underdeveloped, immature shoots and stepchildren. All other shoots are slightly shortened and distributed along the wall or support in such a way as to make fuller use of the entire available free area.

Along with leaving a large number of long lashes on the bushes, some vines on the branches of the sleeves should be cut by no more than 12-15 eyes and tied to the wire in an arched, horizontal or oblique manner. On such vines, the growth of shoots will be more moderate, and the quality of the harvest is higher.

Winter-hardy grapes near the walls can also be formed in the form of vertical (upright) and horizontal (lying) single-barreled forms - cordons. For high walls, vertical cordons are suitable, for low walls of buildings and fences - horizontal ones. Walls with windows and doors are covered simultaneously with those and other cordons. So that green shoots can be evenly placed and tied up in one plane, the height of the cordons is made different.

Vertical cordons are shaped like a tree with a trunk and fruit links evenly spaced on either side along the entire length of the trunk. Fruit links sit on short stump-horns and consist of either two fruit arches or fruit arches and a replacement knot (Fig. 13).

Rice. 13. Vertical cordon

Horizontal cordons can be one-sided and two-sided. They have the appearance of trunks bent in one or two sides, on which fruit vines are located along their entire length. The trunks are tied up along the wire, and all developing green shoots are tied vertically to the second and third wires.

The formation of bushes in the form of cordons is very difficult and requires strict pruning, which weakens the plants, inhibits their development and reduces the longevity of the bushes. The elimination of these forms delays the entry of the bushes into fruiting by 2-3 years.

Garter sleeves, fruit vines and green shoots... In viticulture, there are two types of garter - "dry" and "green". Dry is called a garter to the support of sleeves and annual fruit vines with unblown buds. With the help of this garter, they regulate the growth force of various parts of the bush and distribute them evenly over the trellis.

Forming a bush, by dry garter, the trunk or sleeves are given the desired position: vertical, horizontal or inclined. With the vertical position of the arms and vines, the growth of shoots on them increases. The horizontal position reduces the flow of nutrients to the tops, and the shoots grow weaker, but the nutrition of the bunches increases, which is why they reach a large size.

The best time for a dry garter is from the beginning of sap flow to the beginning of budding, when the vine becomes flexible and easily takes any position. There are still no buds at this time, therefore there is no danger of losing part of the crop from damaging them. When the swelling and germination of the eyes begins, the garter should not be done, since the eyes break out very easily at this time.

A green garter is a garter of growing green shoots. Its purpose is to evenly distribute the entire green mass over a trellis or other support of any kind so that there is no thickening and shading of shoots and leaves, so that young shoots do not break and are not damaged by the wind and it would be easy to spray and dust them against pests and diseases.

A green garter is produced as the shoots grow 2-3 times during the growing season: the first - soon after flowering, when the green shoots reach the height of the second wire of the trellis; the second - when the shoots reach the third and fourth wires (3-4 weeks after the first). Sometimes a third, "corrective" garter is additionally carried out.

Dry and green garters are made with twine, washcloth, kuga, sedge, etc. If this garter is not available, bark and thin twigs of willow, tala can be used for dry garter. To give elasticity and flexibility, the rods and bark should be pre-soaked in water.

Tie up sleeves, fruit vines and green shoots so that they are less damaged by the winds against each other and on the wire. To do this, the garter material is first fixed well on a wire or on poles, then the ends are twisted in the form of a figure of eight and, pulling to the wire, one or another part of the bush is tied up. This garter rule must be strictly observed in the conditions of the Rostov and Kamensk regions, where strong winds often blow in the spring and summer, causing great mechanical damage to the bushes. With poor fastening, the garter material is frayed against the wire and the vines can break off under the weight of the crop.

Caring for the green parts of the bush... Fragment, pinching, chasing, pinching the tops of the shoots, thinning the inflorescences and bunches are the main methods of caring for the green parts of the bush.

The debris of green shoots must be done with extreme care. The harvest and the state of the plantings not only of the current year, but also of subsequent years depend on the correct choice of shoots to replace the fertile vines and old branches.

During the summer, 2-3 pieces of debris are needed. Approximately a week after the opening of the eyes, shoots are broken out on the head of the bush, which are unnecessary for the formation of replacement sleeves, as well as shoots on perennial parts of the sleeves. When the shoots reach 15-20 centimeters in length and inflorescences appear on them, they produce the first breakdown of sterile "doubles" (second shoots that have developed from one bud) on the fruiting arrows. After flowering, shoots that have emerged from dormant and replacing buds are again broken out, and also the head of the bush is again looked through, removing weak shoots.

After carrying out the fragment on the bushes of a multi-armed fan-shaped form, depending on the variety and the growth force of the bushes, 25-40 fruitful shoots usually remain. 3-5 shoots are left on the head of the bush, which will later replace outdated and damaged sleeves.

Stepsonizing consists in shortening the stepchildren - by escaping, grown in the leaf axils. The purpose of pinching is to enable the main shoots to develop and mature better, as well as to create conditions for normal ventilation and lighting of the bush. The stepsons do not completely break out, so as not to damage the eyes of the next year, located next to the base of the stepson, but shorten them by 2-3 lower leaves. On varieties that form many stepchildren, as well as on powerful bushes, this technique is repeated 2-3 times.

In cases where all the buds on the sleeves are damaged by winter frosts or spring frosts, shoots are killed, the stepsons on the shoots are not removed, but they are used to accelerate the formation of the sleeves. To enhance the growth of the stepsons, pinch the tops of the main shoots as soon as two lower stepsons develop on them. From the latter, a fruit link is formed, cutting one by a knot, the second by an arrow. The bushes restored at the expense of the stepchildren can yield crops for the next year.

Chasing - the removal of the tops of the shoots - is carried out in order to stop growth by reducing the flow of nutrients to the tops and direct these substances to the berries, the forming eyes of the next year and to the shoots for accumulation. In addition, when minting, all the youngest parts of the shoots are removed, which primarily affects mildew, the ventilation of the bushes and the access of light to the bunches, shoots and leaves are enhanced.

However, it is not always possible to use chasing. In dry years, when growing grapes without watering, as well as on bushes of low-growing varieties, chasing can only do harm, since in these cases, when the leaves are removed, the berries accumulate little sugar, and the shoots ripen worse.

In years with frequent rains, on irrigated vineyards and on vigorous varieties (Pukhlyakovsky, Central Asian), chasing is necessary. The best time for her is the beginning of the ripening of the shoots (late July - early August), which is indicated by the yellowing and browning of the lower parts of the shoots. Earlier chasing is harmful, as it causes increased growth of stepchildren and even buds, from which shoots should develop for the next year.

When minting, at least 5-6 leaves should be left above the top bunch.

To enhance the flow of nutrients to the bunches and thereby make them more full-bodied, before flowering, pinch the tops of the shoots bearing the bunches. This agricultural practice is recommended for varieties that are characterized by strong shedding of inflorescences, peas, uneven development of berries (Muscadel, Hungarian Muscat, Hamburg Muscat, Riesling, etc.). Pinching the tops of the shoots is also recommended for varieties that have a functionally female type of flower, since a temporary decrease in the flow of nutrients to the growth points increases their flow to the inflorescences, and this contributes to better fertilization of flowers.

In some cases, when they want to accelerate the ripening of the bunches and improve the color of the berries of white table grape varieties, they partially remove the leaves. This work must be carried out carefully and skillfully, as removing too many leaves may result in the opposite result - the berries will get sunburn and remain unripe.

It is recommended to remove some of the leaves if the bushes are heavily thickened or shaded by nearby trees or buildings. First of all, they cut off the old leaves below the bunches and partially around them. This work should be carried out in several stages in order to gradually accustom the berries to the sun. In addition to the leaves, they remove all tendrils growing near the bunches, because they, clinging to the bunches and wrapping around them, spoil the appearance of the grapes and make it difficult to harvest.

To get bunches with large, equally developed, regular-shaped berries, the bunches are thinned out. This does not reduce the yield, and the bunches deteriorate less during transportation and winter storage.

Thinning is started when the berries reach the size of a pea or slightly earlier. This technique is best done in two terms. Cut off excess berries with the sharp ends of scissors. The amount of berries removed depends on the density of the bunches and is usually half of the entire ovary.

Additional pollination... Pure plantings of varieties with functionally female flowers (Moldavian "Madeleine Anzhevin, Pukhlyakovsky, Plechistik, Seanets Malengra, Zarya Severa, Severny, etc.) do not yield a crop, but when planted together with bisexual varieties and with artificial additional pollination, they can be very productive.Artificial cross-pollination is also important for bisexual varieties.

If you need to artificially pollinate a small number of inflorescences, proceed as follows: the blossoming inflorescences of the pollinator variety are dipped in a glass jar and shaken. The pollen settled on the walls is collected with a cotton swab or a soft brush and applied to the flowers of the pollinated variety.

Pollination with a hare fur mitten gives good results. First, a mitten is carried over the pollinator's inflorescences, collecting pollen on the villi of the fur, and then, with the same movement of the hand, the pollen is applied to the blossoming inflorescences of the pollinated variety.

The most widespread method of pollination with puffs. A puff is a spatula covered with rabbit or bunny skin with well washed and dried fur /

When pollinating, they take a puff in each hand, hold them from both sides along the inflorescences of the pollinator, collecting pollen, and then transfer it in the same way to the inflorescences of the pollinated variety.

Good results are obtained by additional pollination of bisexual varieties with a mixture of pollen. To do this, puffs are carried out on all inflorescences of each bush in a row. In this case, it turns out at the same time to collect a mixture of pollen for powder puffs and pollinate flowers with it.

When dusting, the puffs need to be cleaned from time to time by tapping one against the other and blowing the fur, since a lot of sterile pollen of functionally female flowers collects on it. After finishing work, the puffs should be washed well with warm water and soap and dried.

If flowering takes place under favorable conditions (temperature 20 degrees and above, light wind, no precipitation), you can limit yourself to a single pollination. In rainy, cold weather, dew, fog, pollination should be carried out two or three times.

It is best to carry out pollination before 8-10 o'clock in the morning. However, if dew has fallen, it is possible to pollinate only after the grape bushes have dried out.

To determine how fertilization went, flowers should be checked 2-3 days after artificial pollination. If the stigmas remain green, then the ovaries have not fertilized; if the stigmas are brown, fertilization has occurred. However, to ensure pollination, it is better to repeat it.

In some varieties (Hungarian Muscat, Madeleine Angevin, etc.), in calm weather, the caps on the flowers are poorly shed and from this they are not completely pollinated. In this case, it is recommended to knock down the caps with a jet of air from a conventional knapsack duster before dusting.

Tillage... The soil in the vineyard is cultivated annually in order to give air access to the roots, accumulate and retain moisture, destroy weeds, apply fertilizers, and destroy pests. This is achieved by deep autumn loosening (digging or plowing), early spring deep loosening, repeated shallow loosening in spring and summer, snow retention and watering. In addition to annual processing, it is also necessary to periodically deep loosening of the soil with the introduction of a large amount of fertilizer to a great depth.

Manure is the most common and valuable fertilizer: it improves the properties of the soil and delivers all the necessary nutrients to the plants. When manure is applied, sandy soils become more cohesive and hold water better, and heavy clay soils become lighter, better letting air to the roots. Manure is introduced every 3-4 years, on clay soils for autumn, on sandy and sandy loam - for spring digging. For heavy soils, 2-3 kilograms of manure per square meter are required, for light soils - 3-4. The depth of application on any soil is 15-20 centimeters.

During autumn digging (to a depth of 50-25 centimeters), lumps are formed, which should not be leveled, since they contribute to the accumulation of moisture in the soil in autumn and winter. You need to dig up the soil completely both in the rows and between them. This work is combined with the shelter of the bushes for the winter.

In order to better retain rain and melt water, it is recommended to arrange earth rolls-lintels with a height of 20-30 centimeters between the bushes across the flow direction. Accumulation of snow in various ways “It also helps to moisten the soil and, in addition, to insulate the root system. Soil cultivation in spring and summer is aimed at keeping moisture from autumn rains and snow and accumulating it from spring and summer precipitation.

In the spring, after pruning and garter vines, the soil is loosened to a depth of 15 centimeters. This work must be completed before bud break.

If the autumn was dry, and the winter with little snow, spring loosening should be carried out as early as possible, following the opening of the bushes. After the spring digging, the soil surface is leveled with a rake.

Summer tillage consists in repeated loosening in rows and row spacings to a depth of 5-6 centimeters. The goal is to destroy weeds and destroy the crust that forms on the soil surface after rain and irrigation. Usually, 4-5 loosening is carried out during the summer.

Top dressing on fruiting vineyards should be applied: the first - before the flowering of grapes (in the first half of May), the second - during the beginning of ripening of berries and vines (in late July or early August).

Top dressing is introduced into grooves (furrows) 20-25 centimeters deep along the rows of grapes or into holes at a distance of 30-40 centimeters from the bush at the rate from half a bucket to a bucket of solution per plant. After pouring out the fertilizing solution, the groove or hole is immediately filled up.

A very valuable fertilizer is feces (contents of cesspools): they contain a lot of nutrients in a form easily assimilated by plants. This fertilizer, like slurry and poultry manure, is used as a top dressing.

In addition to organic fertilizers, mineral fertilizers should also be used, and the greatest benefit is obtained from their joint application.

As the first top dressing, you can use nitrogen fertilizer-ammonium sulfate at the rate of 15-20 grams per square meter. This amount of fertilizer is dissolved in 1-2 liters of water.

During the second feeding, phosphorus fertilizer-superphosphate should be applied at 20-30 grams and potassium salt at 10-15 grams per square meter. They are brought in dry, immediately sealed and watered.

Despite the annual loosening and fertilization, the soil in the vineyard in deeper layers is inevitably compacted and depleted in nutrients. In this regard, in addition to annual soil cultivation, in the practice of many viticultural regions (Astrakhan, Don, Dagestan, etc.), a special method is used - deep (50-80 centimeters) loosening of the soil around the bushes with the introduction of a large amount of organic fertilizers. They do it like this: at a distance of 50-60 centimeters from the head of the bush, on one side, they dig a hole 50 cm wide and 60-80 cm deep. The pit is covered with humus (4-5 buckets), mixing it with the soil of the upper layer, and watered abundantly. After 4-5 years, this technique is repeated, but a hole is dug from the opposite side of the bush. When digging a hole, the main thick roots are not cut, and many suction roots develop on the cuts of smaller roots, which significantly increases the ability of the bush to absorb nutrients and water from the soil.

Mulching plays an important role in maintaining moisture in the soil and in the fight against weeds - covering the soil surface with mulch - rotted manure, straw chaff, chaff, sawdust, etc. Mulch is spread in row spacing and around bushes with a layer of 8-10 centimeters after spring loosening and leveling soil surface.

Moisture is well retained under the mulch for several months and weeds do not develop. On a private plot, where all soil cultivation can only be manual, mulching is especially important as a means of facilitating the work of the grower.

It is best to keep the soil loose and clean.However, if the grapes are watered and looked after, observing all the rules of agricultural technology, it is possible to allow planting in the middle of the row spacing of melons, low-growing legumes and vegetables.

Watering... The vine is very responsive to irrigation. When watering, the yield increases significantly, the bushes grow faster, and their resistance to frost and drought increases.

However, too abundant and frequent watering does not bring benefits, but, on the contrary, worsen the quality of berries, delay the growth and ripening of shoots and can contribute to the development of fungal diseases.

For a home vineyard, the best way to irrigate is directly under the bush, since this is the most economical way to use water. You can also water in grooves 15-20 centimeters deep, dug along the rows or around each bush at a distance of 25-35 centimeters from its base. Water is allowed into the grooves from the water supply until 3/4 of their depth is filled.

Summer watering requires 60-80 liters per square meter, or 10 buckets per bush. If the site is watered in the fall, in order to saturate the soil with moisture by the spring, 100 liters should be poured per square meter, or 15 buckets per bush.

The first watering is carried out in the fall - in October, November, the second - in the summer, 10-15 days after flowering, the third - before the berries ripen.

In a dry summer, the number of waterings can be increased to 4-5, in a wet summer, you can limit yourself to 1-2 waterings or even not resort to them at all.

Protection of bushes from winter damage and spring frosts... In Rostov and Kamensk regions, the vine is often exposed to the harmful effects of severe frosts, abrupt transitions from cold to warm, dry cold winds, etc. As a result, roots, eyes, sleeves and vines are damaged.

If the site is located on rocky, light sandy loam or sandy soil and is not protected from the winds by trees and buildings, in some years the roots can be damaged to a great depth. On heavy clay soils, the roots are damaged less often.

The root system of grapes should be protected from freezing, first of all, by deep planting of seedlings. The further task of the grower is to grow a bush with a powerful root system, and this requires deep tillage, organic fertilizers, and watering.

The means of warming the roots is mulching with manure after sheltering the bushes for the winter and the accumulation of a large amount of snow on the site. Irrigation in winter (in October-November) also reduces the depth of soil freezing.

More often than the roots, the aerial parts of the bushes - the eyes and vines - are damaged in winter.

The eyes or individual kidneys in them can die from freezing, lack of oxygen and other reasons. With proper and timely cover of the bushes, the buds are usually well preserved.

In the Rostov and Kamensk regions, of all winter damage to grapes, the most important is spotted necrosis of branches and annual vines. Patches of dead tissue appear on the affected sleeves. Initially, these are separate oblong brown spots, but in subsequent winters the spots increase, connect with each other and form a ring around the sleeve. This means that the supply of water and nutrients to the growth points is disrupted, which is why a large number of buds die without blooming, the shoots grow poorly and ripen poorly. The next year, as a rule, the sleeves affected by necrosis completely dry out.

Covering grape bushes only with earth does not completely protect them from such damage, but if the vines are covered first with organic materials (straw, gulls, reeds, hay, etc.), and above with earth, the damage is significantly reduced. The organic layer here plays not only a warming role, but also protects the vines from excessive moisture in the covering shafts.

Protecting the vine from unfavorable winter conditions, it is necessary at the same time pruning and shaping in such a way as to always be able to replace badly damaged, lost economic value and shriveled sleeves.

Spring frosts can cause great damage to viticulture. The temperature drops to 1 ° C and lower during bud break are especially dangerous.

Frosts damage mainly growing green shoots, but the tops of shoots and inflorescences are especially sensitive. The growth of the previous year is rarely hurt.

The degree of damage in different areas and even in the same area may be different. This must be taken into account and measures must be taken depending on the degree of damage and varietal composition.

The easiest and most common way to deal with frost is to fumigate or smoke with smoke piles. For these heaps, manure, weeds, grass, leaves, tops, rotting straw and hay, sawdust and the like are used.

The piles must be stacked so that they do not burn very quickly and produce a lot of smoke. A 1.5-1.8 meter long stake is inserted vertically into the ground where the heap should be, and a layer of flammable material (shavings, dry straw) is first placed around it, and then a layer of brushwood, on it a layer of grass, tops and others is difficult combustible materials. The top of the pile is covered with dry earth or sand so that it burns more slowly. When igniting the heap, the stake is pulled out, a piece of tow moistened with kerosene is inserted into the hole formed, and set on fire with a torch.

It is necessary to light it when the air temperature drops to 1-2 degrees above 0. It must be remembered that smoke can reach the goal only when it is not late with it, since the smoke does not raise the temperature, but only keeps it. It is useless to start smoking when the temperature drops to 1-2 degrees below zero.

Watering the vineyard the day before, freezing can also save plants. With water, which is warmer than the soil during freezing, a significant amount of heat is introduced into the soil, which reduces the cooling of the earth's surface and the surface air layer.

If the grapes are still damaged by frosts, when restoring the bushes, the main attention should be paid to obtaining a good growth necessary to restore the shape of the bushes, breeding fruit vines for next year's harvest and for harvesting this year.

On bushes where only green shoots are damaged, and the wood of the previous year is not affected, no operations with above-ground parts should be done. If only the tops of the shoots are damaged, then stepchildren can develop on them. With a good general condition of the bushes and proper agricultural technology, these stepchildren can give a crop this year and normally developed shoots for the formation of fruit links next year. With complete damage to the shoots that have grown from the main bud of the ocellus, new shoots can develop from the lateral, replacing buds. In many varieties (Shasla, Aligote, Rkatsiteli, Cleret, Riesling, Galan, Hungarian Muscat, etc.), these shoots are fruitful. By early pinching of the newly grown shoots (with a length of 15-25 centimeters), it is possible to cause the development of stepchildren, which can give an additional one a little later than the main harvest.

If the fruit-bearing and especially young bushes are badly damaged and the growth of shoots on them does not resume, it is necessary to dig the head of the bush around to a depth of 15 centimeters and make pricks or cuts with a pruner or saw on the boles. This will cause the growth of shoots from the dormant buds. For normal life with trellis formations, there should be at least 20-25 well-developed shoots on the bushes, and 100-150 on the “Don bowl” bushes, therefore, the fragment, chasing and pinching on the restored bushes must be done very carefully. New shoots develop with a delay, they have little time to form and ripen. Consequently, during the growing season, it is necessary to preserve as many leaves as possible on such shoots. Chasing here is permissible only in the case of "fattening" (excessively strong development) of individual shoots. Leaves must be protected in every possible way from mildew damage.

On frost-damaged vineyards, you should especially carefully look after the soil, water the plants, feed them with organic and mineral fertilizers.

Vineyard renovation

When planting poor-quality material, as well as due to errors in planting seedlings and in caring for the planting, some bushes may die.

There are several ways to replace a dead bush: replanting with vigorous, well-developed seedlings or elongated cuttings, layering with lignified and green vines, katavlak (laying a whole bush).

In a non-fertile vineyard, the loss is compensated by replanting seedlings or long vines (130-150 centimeters). On old plantations, layering is more often used. In place of the fallen bush, they dig a planting hole of the usual size, and an inclined groove with a gradual deepening is dug from the neighboring bush to the hole. At the bottom of this ditch, the vine is taken away from the bush. Its upper end with 2 eyes is brought out to the place that the fallen bush occupied. Lignified vine layering is laid in autumn or early spring. Laying of green layers is done in June or July.

To rejuvenate old bushes, disfigured by improper pruning, katavlak is used (Fig. 14). To do this, on the bushes to be rejuvenated, cut off all the sleeves and shoots with the exception of the 2-4 strongest ones. A hole is dug around the bush with a depth of 60-80 centimeters and a bush is laid on the bottom of it. In this case, it is necessary to preserve the main roots and cut only those that interfere with the installation. The vines left behind are taken to places intended for future bushes. Katavlak is usually carried out in spring, sometimes in autumn.

Rice. 14. Katavlak

The second way to rejuvenate is to cut to the "black head", that is, to remove the entire aerial part, together with the head of the bush and even the upper part of the root. From the dormant eyes on the root stem after qpesa, shoots develop - the basis for the formation of a new bush.

Bushes with poor harvest or poor quality berries are re-grafted in the spring (April-May) by half-splitting or full splitting. For re-grafting into a full split, the bush is dug to a depth of 20-25 centimeters. A little below the soil surface, the bole is cut off and split with a special chisel to a depth of no more than 5 centimeters. As a scion, a stalk of a valuable high-yielding variety with 2-3 healthy eyes is taken. With a grafting knife, the end of the cutting under the lower node is sharpened in the form of a wedge and the cutting is inserted into the split so that the bark of the scion coincides with the bark of the rootstock. The inoculation is tied with twine or washcloth, covered with wet moss or paper folded in several layers, and spud with loose moist earth. Bushes with a stem thickness of more than 2.5 centimeters are grafted into a complete split with two cuttings prepared as described above (Fig. 15). With a smaller thickness of the stem, the grafting is done in a half-split, that is, the cut stem is split on the side by half the thickness and grafted with one handle. In the future, it is necessary to annually remove the roots formed on the scion, and the shoots developing from the dormant buds on the rootstock.

Rice. 15. Re-grafting the bush into a full split

Pests and diseases of grapes

Pests and diseases that damage the vine greatly reduce the yield and degrade its quality. If the appropriate measures are not taken, the crop can be completely destroyed. The grower needs to know how to deal with the most common and dangerous diseases and pests.

The main method of struggle is chemical, through the use of various poisons.

All the main poisons necessary for the control of pests and diseases of grapes are produced by our chemical industry and are sold in the stores of Glavkhimsbyt.

The second method of control is mechanical, that is, the direct destruction of pests.

The third method is agrotechnical. It is based on creating unfavorable conditions for pests and diseases, and for a plant - the best, contributing to good growth and development.The selection of varieties that are resistant to pests and diseases is also important.

Phyloxera (very small aphids) is the most dangerous pest of grapes. By settling on the roots and sucking out the juices, it causes the formation of swellings (nodules) on the root lobes, which gradually die off (Fig. 16). Putrid bacteria settle in the dead areas, and the roots gradually die. The bushes begin to dry out and after 4-10 years they completely die. Phylloxera gives 12-14 generations per year. To imagine the whole danger of phylloxera, we point out that, having first appeared in Europe (in the greenhouses of London), within several years it destroyed over 1.5 million hectares of vineyards in Portugal, Italy and other countries.

Rice. 16. Root phylloxera and roots damaged by it: 1 - swelling on the roots; 2 - insect

Measures to combat phylloxera are, first of all, quarantine, that is, the protection of uninfected areas (and these include Rostov and Kamenskaya) from the importation of a pest with planting material from infected areas. As a result of the successful work of the quarantine, the foci of infection found in some places of the RSFSR were completely eliminated.

The main source of phylloxera spread is the illegal import by individuals (without quarantine permission) of planting material from contaminated areas (right-bank Ukraine, Georgia, the Black Sea coast). Often, an amateur, seeking to get cuttings of some rare variety in another region, does not realize what danger he exposes not only to his vineyard, but also to the viticulture of the entire region and even the region. Phyloxera can be carried not only with planting material, but also with stakes, processing tools, and shoes.

Wine hobbyists should avoid buying planting material from unknown persons on the market. It is necessary to purchase cuttings only in nurseries and scientific institutions. If signs of phylloxera are found on the site, you must immediately inform the quarantine inspector.

Khrushchev (July, marble, etc.) harm mainly on sandy soils. These are rather large beetles, but it is not they who harm the grapes, but their larvae (Fig. 17), which hatch and live in the soil, feeding on the roots of plants. In the vineyards, the most common marble beetle beetle is brown in color with white blurry spots on the back in the form of a marble pattern. The flight of beetles begins in the second half of June, in the evening hours. On the 5-6th day, the female lays eggs in the soil, and after 15-20 days the larvae emerge from them. The larvae develop slowly (3-4 years) and cause great harm to the vines.

Rice. 17. Marble beetle: 1 - an adult insect; 2 - root damaging larva

Control measures. The infected areas are poisoned during digging with hexachlorane, in the spring to a depth of 7-15, and in the fall - to 20-25 centimeters. When cultivating the soil around grape bushes, larvae are also selected by hand or poultry is used to destroy them. When planting grapes in areas where grubs are seen, the ground is sprinkled 25-30 centimeters around the planting pits with hexachloran powder.

Krawchik beetle is a large black beetle that damages (cuts off) not only young shoots and leaves of grapes, but also other crops. Beetles live on virgin lands, along roadsides and in other places.

Rice. 18. Cravchik beetle

Control measures. If the backyard is located near a place infected with a kravchik, which is determined by the presence of beetle burrows, then it is necessary to dig a protective ditch 30 centimeters deep. At the bottom of the ditch, DDT dust is scattered at the rate of 40-50 grams per running meter. If the site itself is infected, where it is supposed to plant grapes, then it should be pollinated with DDT or hexachlorane at the rate of 3 grams "per square meter. With a small plot size, hexachlorane or DDT can be applied directly into the burrows, then sprinkled with earth.

Wireworms (click beetle larvae) cause great harm to young plantings and schools.The larva is brown, 4-5 centimeters long, lives in the soil and feeds on young shoots that have started to grow or open buds.

Control measures. A few days after planting the cuttings, at a distance of 6-10 centimeters from them, a circular groove is made 7-10 centimeters deep and 12% hexachlorane dust is added into it. In the school, on both sides of the planted cuttings, they also make a groove and seed the soil at the rate of 12-15 grams of hexachlorane per 1 square meter. Wireworms are also selected by hand, raking mounds around the planted plants.

Alenka is a medium-sized, densely pubescent beetle of gray color. In some years, eating flowers, greatly reduces the grape harvest.

Control measures. Pollination of vineyards at the beginning of flowering with 7% DDT. However, it should be remembered that, destroying beetles, DDT dust can also poison bees visiting the vineyard, therefore, in the presence of an apiary, the bushes should be pollinated in extreme cases, after removing the bees by at least 5-6 kilometers. Alenok can also be shaken off in the early morning hours on sheets or shields and destroyed.

Grape itch is a very small, ubiquitous mite. Damaging the leaves of grapes, causes the appearance of tubercles on their upper side, and on the lower side - depressions covered with cobwebs. The inexperienced grower often confuses these lesions with mildew, powdery mildew, and other diseases.

Control measures. When a mite appears, the grapes should be sprinkled with a 4% soap solution (40 grams of soap, preferably liquid green, per liter of water) or pollinated with sulfur (in hot weather). Spraying should be repeated every 2-3 weeks.

Mildew is the most harmful disease of the vine. It is caused by a fungus and affects all green parts of the bush. Mildew reduces yields, weakens the growth of the bush, slows down the ripening of shoots, making them unstable against winter conditions. Mildew-depleted bushes reduce yields in the following year. With severe damage, the leaves, as well as flowers, inflorescences and berries fall off.

A characteristic feature of mildew is the appearance in wet weather of yellow-green ("oily") spots on the upper side of the leaves (Fig. 19). On the underside, a white powdery coating appears in place of the spots. In the future, the spots turn brown and dry. The rate of development of the disease depends on air humidity and temperature. Mildew reaches its greatest distribution in rainy summers. In dry weather, it may not appear at all. The fungus overwinters in the form of spores in the tissues of fallen leaves. In spring, spores germinate in young plant tissues at temperatures from 13 to 38 degrees and high humidity (mainly at night, after rain and heavy dew). The higher the temperature, the more active germination is.

Rice. 19. Leaf infected with mildew

Control measures. The main focus should be on preventive measures. For this it is necessary: ​​to keep the soil in the vineyard in a loose state; destroy fallen leaves; avoid dense, windproof planting; do not use a spreading culture; timely carry out a green garter, debris, removal of excess coppice shoots and stepchildren; before the onset of the disease, spray the bushes with 1% Bordeaux liquid.

Bordeaux liquid is a mixture of solutions of copper sulfate and lime. To prepare 10 liters of Bordeaux liquid, take 100 grams of copper sulfate and from 0.5 to 1 kilogram of quicklime (depending on its quality). Copper sulfate is dissolved in wooden dishes, and lime is quenched separately (to the state of milk of lime) and gradually, stirring, poured into a solution of copper (vitriol. The finished solution of 1% Bordeaux liquid is blue and must have a strict ratio of vitriol and lime. an excess of vitriol, the solution can burn the leaves, and with a deficiency, it does not destroy mildew.The correctness of the preparation of the liquid “is checked with a litmus test, which is also sold in Khimsbyt stores. With an excess of vitriol, the litmus paper turns red, and with an excess of lime, it turns blue. A properly prepared solution should not change its original color.

For spraying, they use only freshly prepared Bordeaux liquid, 150-200 grams of it are consumed per bush.

A good result from spraying with Bordeaux liquid can only be obtained if it is carried out carefully and on time. The first spraying is carried out in the spring after the first rain, when the air temperature is at least 13 degrees and the soil, due to the lack of wind, was damp for 2-3 days. On the Don, the first spraying occurs in the second half of May, that is, before flowering. If the weather is rainy at this time, the spraying is repeated. Inflorescences should be sprayed especially carefully to protect them from infection during flowering.

The next spraying is done one week after flowering. As the leaves grow back and rain falls, spraying is repeated after 8-12 days. With frequent rains, the number of sprays reaches 5-6.

Oidium on Don does not appear every year. The most favorable conditions for the development of this disease are high temperatures (16-25 degrees) and high humidity. The disease affects all green parts of the plant, especially the berries. The affected areas are covered with a grayish-ash bloom, emitting the smell of rotten fish, the skin of the berry darkens and cracks (Fig. 20). The berries then quickly rot or dry out.

Fig. 20. Bunch and shoot affected by powdery mildew

Control measures. When the first signs of infection appear, dusting the green parts of the bush with sulfur powder. The next pollination is carried out after 15-18 days and, if necessary, repeat it after the same period. The best conditions for fighting powdery mildew are considered to be quiet, dry weather with a high average daily temperature (above 20 degrees). In the fall, you should collect and burn the fallen leaves, in which the fungus hibernates.

Vine cancer is common mainly in the old Don vineyards. It usually develops on the lignified aerial parts of the bushes in the form of tumors (Fig. 21). This disease is caused by bacteria that enter the plant through the damaged bark.

Rice. 21. Cancer influx on the vine

Control measures. Cancer infection can be prevented by careful handling of the bush, without damaging it during opening and closing and while working the soil. It is necessary to destroy the affected sleeves and even bushes. Planting material cannot be harvested from diseased bushes.

Of the chemical agents, the best results are obtained by smearing tumors with a 5% solution of copper naphthenate (in autumn or spring). To prepare 1 liter of copper naphthenate, take 0.8 liters of autol or kerosene, 0.2 liters of liquid green soap and 100 grams of copper coupoca. Soap and vitriol are dissolved separately in 0.5 liters of water, it is suspected to boil and a solution of copper sulfate is poured into it, stirring constantly. The result is a green curd mass (copper naphthenate preparation), which is separated from the water. Then the autol or kerosene is heated to a boil and the resulting preparation is dissolved in it. The finished naphthenate is dark green in color.

White rot is found in selected vineyards affected by hail. The disease is caused by a fungus and mainly affects the berries. Affected berries turn brown, take on the appearance of boiled, shriveled and dry out.

Control measures. Spraying the bunches with Bordeaux percent liquid soon after the hail falls. Subsequent spraying is repeated every 7-10 days.

Rules for working with pesticides

The chemicals used to control pests and plant diseases are poisonous to one degree or another for both humans and animals, so they should be handled with care.It is necessary to store poisons in a special room, separately from food, in a tightly sealed container, on which there should be a label with the name of the poison. Do not eat, drink or smoke while working with poisons.

When dusting or spraying, you need to work with glasses and special clothing, and after work, wash your face and hands with soap and warm water. After work, the dusting agent and sprayer must be rinsed with water, wiped dry, and the rubbing parts must be lubricated with oil.

It is better to dust or spray the grapes in calm weather, in the morning after dew or in the evening before dew falls. It should not be sprayed in rainy weather, as well as during flowering grapes, when flowers are easily damaged. However, in the case of a strong manifestation of mildew, spraying is carried out during flowering.

During spraying, the solution in the apparatus must be shaken from time to time. Apply it to the leaves in a thin layer, holding the spray tip at a distance of 50-80 centimeters from the plant. The solution should not be allowed to run off the leaves.

Harvesting, storage and processing of grapes

Cleaning... The harvest time is determined by the appearance and taste of the berries.

When ripe, the berries of the white varieties become soft, lighter and easily separated from the stalk; their skin acquires transparency, elasticity and becomes covered with a waxy coating; ridges often turn wood and turn brown; the seeds turn brown. (In very early varieties, the seeds often remain green by the time they ripen.) Black grapes acquire the characteristic color of the variety.

Ripe grapes should be sweet enough to taste.

Table varieties are harvested selectively as individual bunches ripen on the bush. To evaluate the taste of berries, they should be taken not only at the base, where they ripen earlier, but also from the top of the bunch.

Very early and early varieties are harvested without waiting for full maturity, since the quality of the berries deteriorates significantly when overripe. In addition, early varieties are unsuitable for long-term storage and should be marketed

Medium-ripening varieties can be aged for longer on the bushes and stored indoors after reaching consumer maturity.

Late varieties are more profitable to use for long-term storage in the autumn-winter period, since they are usually shelf-stable and transportable. If the collection is delayed until the leaves fall, then the bunches should be cut off with part of the vine.

It is better to harvest grapes in dry, sunny weather, in the morning, after the dew has melted. Compliance with this rule is especially important for varieties intended for drying and fresh storage, since grapes harvested wet easily rot. From frequent watering, due to the dilution of the juice in the berry, the taste of the grapes deteriorates, therefore, 3-4 weeks before harvesting, watering is stopped.

Cut off the bunches well with scissors or pruning shears. If the grapes are stored, it is necessary to strive to preserve the wax coating on the berries, do not damage them or tear them off. When cutting, the bunches should be held by the petiole. In no case should cut grapes be folded and carried in buckets or deep baskets, but only in flat containers (sieves, shallow boxes) in one layer. When picking, it is necessary to immediately remove damaged, rotten and dry berries. The best bunches are considered loose, loose.

Keeping grapes fresh... Experience has shown that in the Rostov and Kamensk regions, grapes at home are stored until February, and sometimes March.

You need to store grapes in a clean, dry, dark, well-ventilated area at a temperature of 1 to 4 degrees Celsius. Before putting it into storage, the room is cleaned, fumigated with sulfur dioxide, burning 0.5 kilograms of sulfur per cubic meter, whitened with a thick solution of milk of lime mixed with ferrous sulfate and thoroughly ventilated. To reduce the humidity in the room, put several pieces of quicklime.

The easiest storage method is to hang the grape bunches on dry ridges (without escaping). For such storage, there are several types of devices that allow you to care for grapes without unnecessary shifting. But the berries stored in this way are still partially shriveled (wither), and the crests of some varieties become fragile and break.

A more difficult way is to store the bunches on green ridges (with a part of the shoot). To do this, the bunch is cut off together with a part of the shoot (15-20 centimeters) and the shoot is lowered with its lower end into a vessel (bottle, jar) with water (Fig. 22). The upper cut of the shoot is covered with paraffin. As the water evaporates and is absorbed by the bunch, the vessel is refilled, and the end of the vine, dipped in water, is refreshed. You need to look through the stored bunches every 7-10 days, remove rotting berries immediately, cutting them off along with the stalk.

Rice. 22. Storing grapes on green beds

During storage, sudden changes in temperature should be avoided. To do this, in the fall, the room is opened at night to reduce the temperature, and closed during the day. In winter, if the temperature drops sharply, the bunches should be covered with burlap or a blanket, and the room should be slightly heated.

The grapes are quite successfully preserved in small barrels, sprinkled with dry cork sawdust or leaves of linden, aspen, poplar.

Soaking and pickling grapes... In practice, urinating and pickling of grapes is widely used. These preservation methods do not change the appearance of the berries and their nutrient content. The best varieties for this purpose are Pukhlyakovsky, Moldavsky Black and Astrakhansky Tolstokory.

Urinating... Fresh cherry leaves are placed on the bottom of a jar or barrel, and bunches of grapes are placed tightly on them, sprinkled with mustard at the rate of 50 grams per 15 kilograms of grapes. Several bay leaves are placed there. The laid grapes are covered with a second layer of cherry leaves and the jar is poured with 4% sodium chloride solution (40 grams of salt per liter of water). The dishes are sealed and stored at a temperature of 2 to 10 degrees Celsius. In this form, the grapes can be stored for up to 6-8 months.

Pickling... Bunches of grapes tightly packed in a dish are poured with marinade and stored in a cool room. The marinade is prepared as follows: per liter of water, take 25 grams of wine vinegar, 130 grams of sugar, 5 grams of salt and a little bay leaf. The solution is boiled for 30 minutes, cooled, filtered and the grapes are poured over it. The dishes are tightly sealed.

You can also save grapes in horseradish vapors. To do this, the bunches are placed in glass jars interspersed with horseradish shavings (at the rate of 10 percent horseradish by weight of the grapes), (tightly sealed and stored in a dark room at a temperature of about 10 degrees C. Before use, the grapes are slightly ventilated.

Drying grapes... Dried grapes are an extremely valuable food product. In terms of nutritional value, it is higher than foods such as meat, bread and potatoes. The most suitable varieties for drying are Kishmish (white, pink and black) and various Muscat.

The easiest way to dry is by sun-air, on the roof or on a tarp spread on the ground. With this drying, the berries dry out rather quickly without losing their qualities. In the Rostov and Kamensk regions, in sunny weather, grapes can be dried in 2.5-3.5 weeks. Every 2-3 days, the bunches are turned over to dry evenly.

You can also recommend drying grapes under glass on inclined boards. For better warming, the shields are painted black (with odorless and non-melting paint or ink) and, having spread the grapes on them, are covered with greenhouse frames. The resulting chamber must be well ventilated.

To speed up drying, a more complex method is also used: scalding grapes in alkali.40-50 grams of caustic soda (for white varieties) or 30 grams (for black varieties) are placed on a bucket of water, put on fire and bunches are lowered into an almost boiling solution for 3 seconds. After that, letting the alkali drain from the bunches, they hang them on the windows, against the open window. Dried grapes are stored in small cloth bags.

Juicing... Grape juice is a valuable medicinal product. It usually contains 18 to 25 percent sugar (glucose and fructose), food acids (malic, tartaric and citric), vitamins and minerals. Juice enhances metabolism, strengthens the nervous system, increases appetite.

Any variety can be used for juicing.

The grapes used for juice must be healthy and fresh, For. this berries of freshly cut grapes are separated from the ridges in a glass or enamel dish, crushed and quickly squeezed out the juice through a linen bag. The squeezed juice is cloudy and should be left to stand for 2-3 hours. Dishes for sediment (preferably a 3-liter bottle) should be fumigated with sulfur, for which a piece of sulfur is set on fire and brought into the bottle on a curved spoon (Fig. 23). The throat of the bottle with juice is closed with a cotton stopper, which should be very tight. After settling, the juice is poured into half-liter and liter bottles and disinfected (pasteurized). Pasteurization consists in heating the juice together with the dishes at 68-70 degrees for 30 minutes. To do this, bottles of juice, sealed with cotton stoppers, are placed in a large saucepan or bucket of water and heated to the desired temperature. After pasteurization and cooling, the juice is stored in a cool dry cellar throughout the year.

Rice. 23. Fumigation of a bottle with sulfur dioxide

If you have a refrigerator, grape juice can be stored in the cupboard. To do this, juice poured into fumigated bottles is placed in a refrigerator and kept at a temperature of minus 5 degrees. With this method, the juice retains its freshness and all vitamins.

Cooking jam and marmalade... For jam, the best varieties are Muscat, Pukhlyakovsky, Moldavian black, Lydia, Senso, Karaburnu. Before cooking, the berries are carefully separated from the ridges, washed with clean water and covered with granulated sugar at the rate of 300 grams of sugar per kilogram of berries. The jam is boiled in a copper basin over low heat. When sugar dissolves, after 15-25 minutes, the bowl is removed from the heat for 5-6 hours (to soak the berries with syrup), after which the cooking is continued until the appropriate viscosity and color of the jam.

The jam is boiled without sugar. The berries are crushed, put in a basin and boiled to their original volume. A large number of seeds in jam is unpleasant to eat and contributes to its rapid deterioration, so seeds from large berries are chosen. The boiled mass is transferred to a flat dish and placed in a cooling oven or stove for 15-20 minutes. They store jam in jars.

Growing grapes indoors

The potted grape culture is unique and differs significantly from the usual soil.

It is best to propagate grapes indoors by cuttings, but you can also grow from seeds.

For rooting, cuttings 20-30 centimeters long with 3-4 eyes or shortened 1-2-eyed cuttings are prepared for planting in the usual way and placed obliquely in boxes with washed coarse river sand. The best temperature is 20-25 degrees.

After rooting and the formation of shoots with 5-6 leaves, the plants are carefully removed from the box with a clod of earth and planted in clay flowerpots or tubs. In the first year of culture, a sufficient capacity of dishes is 5 liters, in the next 3-5 years - 8-10 liters, and later - 20-30 liters. Planting is best done in early spring - in March.

The soil for planting seedlings is prepared from 2 parts of land (preferably sod), 1 part of humus and 1 part of river sand. Planted pots should be exposed to the sunny window of the room. In summer, grapes are best kept out of an open window or on a sunny terrace.

To pass the dormant period, plants need to spend 40-45 days at a low temperature (3-5 degrees Celsius). For this purpose, pots or tubs of grapes are taken out to the basement for the winter. In February - March, the grapes are taken out of the basement, tied to a support and placed on a sunny window.

If the room is moderately warm and light and there is a glacier in the house, the grapes can bear fruit twice a year. With the help of a glacier, which allows artificially creating the temperature necessary for a dormant period at any time of the year, fruiting can be induced in any season. However, plants do better with one growing season per year. The dormant period is best timed to December, January, when there is little light, and it is difficult to create normal temperature conditions for the growing season. If at the beginning of February the plants are brought into a room with normal temperature and lighting, in May - June the harvest will begin to ripen.

One of the main conditions for the good development and fruiting of grapes is the annual replacement of soil in the vessels. They change the land as follows: the plant is well watered and removed from the pot. At the same time, most of the soil is carefully separated from the roots, and the remaining lump is washed out. The plant with the washed roots is put back in the pot and covered with freshly prepared soil.

When growing grapes in large boxes or tubs, it is enough to completely renew the land every 2-3 years, but the top layer in the tub must be replaced annually with fresh, well-fertilized soil.

To quickly bring the plant out of dormancy by bringing the flowerpot into the room, you should water the soil with lukewarm water (30-35 degrees). This stimulates the vital activity of the root system and accelerates the swelling of the buds. The same goal is pursued by daily spraying of vines with warm water. In the future, the grapes are watered as the soil dries out. From the beginning of the ripening of the berries to their full ripeness, watering is reduced. After harvesting, watering is reduced a little more so that the wood ripens better. During the dormant period, the soil should also not dry out completely. It is better to water it with rain or tap (non-chlorinated) water.

During the growing season, simultaneously with watering, the plants should be fed 3-4 times with solutions of organic and mineral fertilizers. Mineral dressings are made from the following calculation: for a flowerpot with a volume of 15-20 liters, which holds approximately 40-50 kilograms of dry soil, at the first top dressing (March), 55 grams of ammonium sulfate, 30 superphosphate and 15 grams of potassium salt are added. In April, before flowering, ammonium sulfate 55, superphosphate - 85, potassium salt - 15 grams are introduced. It is better to divide this amount of fertilizer in half and apply before flowering in two terms.

In May and June, a phosphorus-potassium supplement is useful, contributing to the accumulation of sugar in the berries and better ripening of the vine. 85 grams are added to superphosphate, 15 grams of potassium salt.

The indicated doses of fertilizers are dissolved in water and applied to the ground, which has been well watered beforehand. In addition, a fertilizer broth can be prepared from superphosphate: pour the required dose of fertilizer into 1.5 liters of water, boil, drain from the sediment, dilute it with 10 times the volume of water and add 1.5 grams of boric acid there.

It is good to water the plants 2-3 times during the growing season with a very weak solution of boric acid, manganese or ferrous sulfate.

Prune the vine at room culture shortly. In the first year, only one shoot is grown, in subsequent years - from 3 to 6 vines.

Before the beginning of the growing season, each vine is cut into 2-3 clearly swollen eyes. All shoots bearing inflorescences are pinched over the fifth or sixth leaf after the flower brush. Fruitless shoots should be pinched at the end of summer for better ripening.

To get large berries, the bunches need to be thinned out with scissors at a time when the berries are the size of a pea.

To prevent the damage of berries by powdery mildew (quite frequent at room temperature), plants should be pollinated 2-3 times, and most importantly - the set berries with sulfur powder.

Application

Winegrower work calendar

January... Snow retention. Checking the state of the cuttings in the store. Procurement of fertilizers and pesticides for pest and disease control, procurement of poles, wire. Repair of inventory and equipment.

February... Snow retention and maintenance of stored cuttings Transfer pots of grapes from the basement to the room, pruning plants, watering and spraying with warm water in order to speed up the beginning of the growing season.

March... Retention of melt water. Repair of trellises, arbors, alleys. View the cuttings stored in the basement. Top dressing of grapes in pots.

April... Opening of vines, making holes around the heads of bushes, katarovka, pruning and dry garter. Cleaning off dead bark on old sleeves and burning it. Leveling the site and breaking it down for landing. Installation of supports for bushes. Deep digging with the introduction of mineral fertilizers (on clay soils) and manure (on sandy soils). Laying katavlak and layering. Planting seedlings. Preparing smoke heaps and setting them on fire in case of danger of freezing. Fighting cancer, seeding the soil against wireworms and the kravchik beetle. Keeping cuttings. School landing. Fragment, pinching and feeding of plants in pots.

May... Continuation of the planting of the school, the fight against frost, catarovka. Watering the seedlings (2-3 weeks after planting) with soil mulching. Re-grafting of bushes. The first and second wreckage and the first green garter. Pinching stepchildren. Before flowering - fertilizing with mineral fertilizers. First spraying with Bordeaux liquid. Weed control, soil keeping loose. Fragment, pinching and harvesting of ripe bunches in a pot culture.

June... Thinning of inflorescences and additional pollination. After flowering - watering with top dressing, a second green garter and a third wreckage. Weed control and soil loosening. In case of rainfall - spraying with Bordeaux liquid. Watering the school with top dressing and spraying against mildew. Cutting ripe bunches and feeding plants in pots.

July... Continuation of work on soil care, disease and pest control. Green layering and third green garter. Watering the vineyard with top dressing, thinning bunches, pinching stepchildren, chasing. Second watering of the school with top dressing. The opening of the mounds.

August... Continuation of soil care, chasing, pinching (2-3 weeks before harvest). A garter of shoots with clusters lying on the ground. Fighting white rot. Selective picking of ripe bunches.

September... Harvesting (as the varieties ripen). Preparing the soil for spring planting: clearing, leveling and deep digging of the site. Preparing a storage room for grapes. Drying of grapes, cooking jam, jam, pasteurization of juice.

October... Final harvest. Pre-pruning of bushes. Harvesting cuttings, bundling them into bunches and laying them in the sand (in the basement). Katavlak and layering. Collection and burning of fallen leaves. Deep loosening of the soil with the introduction of manure. Winter watering. Closing bushes for the winter using straw, dry grass, tops. Digging seedlings from the school and laying them for winter storage.

November... Continuation of the shelter of bushes and subwinter watering. Jumpers to retain rainwater. Monitoring the condition of stored grapes. Repair of inventory. Carrying out potted plants to the basement.

December... Observation of stored grapes and cuttings in storage. Snow retention.

Grape (lat. Vitis) - a plant that belongs to the flowering department, the dicotyledonous class, the order of the grape, the grape family, the grape genus. The grapes are bunches of sweet berries.

back to contents ↑ Description of grapes and photos.

The vine is the vine shoots. In the first year after germination, grape seeds give small shoots. Grapes begin to bear fruit only 4 years after planting the seed. Such a long period is necessary because the bush is formed by gradual pruning to a minimum number of shoots.

The flowers of the grapes are small, collected in a complex brush or panicle.The fruit of the grape has a different shape and color due to different varieties: colors can be light green, pinkish purple, blue, almost black. The grapes can be shaped like small beads, balls or ovals. A distinction is made between seedless grape varieties (seedless) and seedless grape varieties. Taken together, the fruits of the plant form a bunch. The length of a bunch of grapes is small - up to 10 cm, medium - 10-20 cm, large - over 25 cm.

back to contents ↑ Types of grapes.

The genus Vitis includes 78 species of grapes. The genus itself is divided into 2 subgenus:

• Euvitis Planch
• Muscadinia planch

Euvitis is represented by 75 species, which, taking into account botanical, anatomical factors, as well as their distribution areas, are divided into 3 groups:

• European-Asian;

It includes only 1 type of grape Vitis vinifera L, which is divided into 2 subspecies, which gave a large number of varieties.

• North American;

It includes 28 species of grapes, of which the most famous are Vitis rupestris, Vitis riparia and Vitis labrusca.

• East Asian.

It includes 44 poorly studied species. The most common of these is the Amur grape.

back to content ↑ Grape varieties and photos.

Grape varieties can be divided into the following groups:

• Red grapes, in which the following varieties can be distinguished:
• Cabernet Sauvignon;
• Red Muscat;
• Merlot;
• Pinot Noir;
• Sira (Shiraz);
• Cabernet Franc;
• Nebbiolo;
• Zinfandel;
• Pinotage.
• White grapes, the main varieties of which are:
• Laura (Flora);
• Arcadia;
• Kesha;
• Chardonnay;
• White Muscat;
• Sauvignon Blanc;
• Chenin Blanc;
• Viura.
• Pink grapes, represented by varieties:
• Original;
• Taifi Pink;
• Transformation;
• Gurzufsky Pink.
• Black grapes, its main varieties:
• Delight Black;
• Kodryanka;
• Maiden;
• Black grapes Kishmish;
• Autumn black.

back to contents ↑ History of grapes.

The history of the emergence and cultivation of grapes has very ancient roots. People have known about grapes for a long time. For example, in Georgia, the remains of a jug were discovered, which was created almost 8 thousand years ago and on which clusters were drawn. grapes. Also, during the excavations, they found the seeds of wild grapes, which, according to scientists, are 60 million years old.

The wines of ancient Greece and ancient Rome were very popular in the 5th century BC. The Greeks loved wine and were passionate about the process of growing grapes.

Armenia is also considered one of the ancient states where this plant was grown. Based on the data of ancient chronicles, in the IV century BC. grape drinks were exported to other countries.

back to contents ↑ The use of grapes.

Grapes are a berry used raw, as well as in desserts and baked goods. Grape juice is used to make other juices, various drinks, jellies and wine. Due to the variety of varieties of this berry and their taste, wine and juice from grapes are obtained different in taste and color. Wine is pink, white or red.

back to contents ↑ Where do grapes grow?

Grapes grow almost anywhere there is sufficient water and sunlight.

Climatic conditions give direction which types of grapes to grow: wine varieties, table varieties, for juice production, for raisins, or simply for consumption.

The most optimal conditions for growing grapes are found in the Mediterranean, southern Africa and the Black Sea basin. There are almost no difficulties in growing grapes in these places. In the regions of Western Europe, grape cultivation is more difficult due to the shorter and colder growing season. Also, grapes grow poorly in the regions of Eastern Europe, rather strong frosts in the winter season kill the grape bush.

back to contents ↑ Care of grapes, pests.

To prevent the grapes from freezing in severe frosts, the vine is covered with earth or tied with paper and polyethylene.Reproduction of grapes occurs by a vegetative method, that is, by cuttings. The seeds are used to breed new varieties.

To improve the yield, grapes need to be pruned. Pruning of the vine is done in early spring or fall. In the spring, pruning must be done before the vine will begin to emit juice. In the fall, the vine is pruned after harvest and leaf fall. To make the grapes more productive, the vine is pruned with garden shears. Two kidneys are retained and the rest is removed. To put the vine up, you need to leave from 8 to 10 buds, and cut off the rest. If the grapes are cut in the spring, leaving 4 buds, the harvest will be good in the summer, but the next year it will noticeably decrease.

The grapes begin to bear fruit early, and from the end of July they can be harvested. This plant is picky and can grow even on poor soils. But, like all plants, there are grape pests that can spoil it. The main ones are the grape leafworm, spider mite, grape moth, phylloxera, beetles and many others. But the most dangerous of them are viral diseases, gray rot, bacterial cancer, oidium, anthracnose and mildew. So that all these parasites are not afraid of grapes, it is sprayed with various fertilizers.

Although grapes are not picky, but like other plants, they cannot be ignored. And special attention must be paid to protecting the grapes from pests and infections and pruning the vine.

back to content ↑ Grapes - useful properties.

Grapes are berries with a fairly large range of useful properties. A huge complex of vitamins and minerals is included in its composition, such as vitamins of group B, A, C, P, K, zinc, iron, copper, silicon and more than 100 useful active substances necessary for health promotion.

The benefits of grapes for the body are not exaggerated, because this berry:

• Increases immunity;
• Reduces the likelihood of developing cancer;
• Helps to normalize blood pressure;
• Reduces cholesterol levels;
• Used to prevent lung disease;
• Has a general strengthening effect on the body;
• Grape seed oil is widely used in cosmetology.

back to content ↑ Grapes - contraindications.

It is worth noting that with a large complex of useful properties, grapes are contraindicated for patients with diabetes mellitus, stomach and duodenal ulcers, liver cirrhosis, acute tuberculosis. Also, grapes can cause allergies in adults and children.

Interesting Grape Facts:

• Experts say dark grapes are healthier than light ones;
• According to scientific studies, in European countries where grape wine is loved, statistics on cancer are lower than in other countries;
• A bunch of grapes or a vine can be seen on many coats of arms of cities.

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It's September, the month is still sunny and kind. I immediately remember the great movie with Russell Crowe "Good Year". The plot is based on the relationship of a successful Englishman with French vineyards ...

It's September, the month is still sunny and kind. I immediately remember the great movie with Russell Crowe "Good Year". The plot is based on the relationship of a successful Englishman with French vineyards. And if in the film the work of the grower is shown light and cheerful, then in life everything is somewhat different. Like any agriculture, viticulture is quite hard work that requires knowledge, strength and complete dedication.

Viticulture provides the population with fresh and dried grapes, and the wine-making, canning and confectionery industries with raw materials. Has 4 production areas:
• Canteen - production of fresh grapes for local consumption, export and storage.
• Viticulture as a raw material base for the production of dried grapes - cultivation of raisin-raisin varieties.
• Viticulture as a raw material base for the wine industry - the cultivation of wine grape varieties to provide raw materials for factories specialized in the production of various types of wine, champagne and cognac wine materials.
• Viticulture as a raw material base for the canning industry - production of raw materials for juices, compotes, preserves, marinades and other non-alcoholic products.

People who are employed in this solar agricultural industry are called winegrowers. And as it should be - these specialists must have the necessary uniforms. According to the standards, each employee employed in the vineyard must have the necessary set of uniforms: - An apron made of cotton fabric with
water-repellent impregnation.
- Boots made of genuine leather.
- Gloves are circular knitted with
polyvinyl chloride (or polymer)
coated.
- Rubber gloves or gloves made of
polymeric materials.
- A headdress (cap or beret) made of cotton fabric.

Thanks to the daily work of winegrowers, we are happy to see champagne on the New Year's table, and raisins in buns.

So let's appreciate this humble but hard work!

About the authorSnabDi @SnabDi

SNABDI Kazakhstan LLP was established in 2011 as a trade and logistics enterprise. The main activity is the sale of workwear, footwear, PPE. A little later, the company "Snabdi Kazakhstan" significantly expanded the scope of its interests, becoming a production and trading enterprise. Two modern workwear factories were opened. Annual production growth is 50%. In the future, launch a production of specific fabrics and shoe production.