Winter onion planting in the fall from seed sets in the open field

Onions are a capricious culture. Incorrect disembarkation times often lead to premature arrow formation.

In waterlogged soil, the heads are prone to rotting. All bulbs are often affected by pests, which leads to the death of the crop. Let us consider in more detail how and when sowing onions before winter is the most correct, the characteristics of cultivation and methods of combating diseases. Subject to the recommendations, the onion will thank us with strong large onions.

Landing time and dates

There are two methods for growing bulbs. Crops can be planted both in the spring after the frost leaves, and in the winter. In spring cultivation, it is recommended to take care of the preparation of the soil in the fall. This period is best for producing quality heads from onion sets. Crops are able to tolerate frosts in the Moscow region up to -1 ° when seedlings appear, and adults - temperature fluctuations up to -3 -5 °.

In spring, onion sets are sown at the end of April - in May, depending on weather conditions. The weather should stabilize and the ground should warm up well. Small specimens up to 1 cm in size are planted earlier, and the main material - 2 weeks later. Early planting of large sevka leads to the formation of arrows ahead of the prescribed time, which will negatively affect the quality and quantity of the crop.

In autumn, in the southern regions, until mid-October at a temperature of + 2–3 °, it is appropriate to lay in the ground a very small planting plant, which, due to its size, will not tolerate winter storage. Most often, in a warm room, it dries out to half of its own size. Such planting material does not go into early shooting, it is well preserved in winter. Thanks to early shoots, a high-quality early harvest is obtained by July.

To choose the optimal time for planting onion sets, it is recommended to be guided by weather forecasts. The best period is considered the moment of the first daily frost, when the snow has not yet fallen, but according to the forecast there are several relatively warm weeks. A later sowing, for example, in November, during a sharp cold snap will not allow the heads to take root and grow stronger, they will die. Chernushki are sown when the crop is harvested in the garden, but frosts have not yet come.

In the northern regions of Russia, onions are planted before winter in early autumn, so that it has time to take root, but no later than mid-October. Only frost-resistant varieties are suitable for this.They definitely need shelter for the winter. In Siberia, the cultivation of winter onions is inappropriate. It will not survive intense frosts and may freeze, so spring planting is optimal.

Benefits of sowing before winter

Planting a bow in the fall avoids premature shooting. The heads will already form the root system by the frost, but the leaf does not have time to start growing. At the end of March, with favorable warm weather, friendly strong shoots will appear. This is facilitated by the moisture accumulated in the soil during the thawing of the snow.

Planting onions in autumn allows you to get strong and resistant to pests, for example, to an onion fly. At first, seedlings are rare, but gradually they get stronger. Harvesting in July makes it possible to grow early ripening crops after bulbous ones and get more vegetables from the site. This saves space in the garden. The advantage of sub-winter cultivation is the early onion for sale. It keeps well, tolerates winter well in a cool room, unlike other early crops.

Varieties for autumn planting

Not all varieties are suitable for laying in the fall before winter. Early-ripening shallots are most often planted for the sake of early greens. It yields two weeks earlier than ordinary onions. Batun is also valuable for early greens. It is sown with the possibility of transplanting to another place. He is a decoration of the garden. Stuttgarten Riesen is highly resistant to downy mildew.

In autumn, wild oat grows well in the Moscow region. These are small onions of irregular shape, up to 1 cm in size. They are planted in grooves to a depth of 3 cm. Winter varieties "Kip-Well", "Radar", "Shakespeare" are suitable for subwinter cultivation. They are frost-resistant, have excellent taste and large bulbs.

The autumn planting of Myachkovsky onions gives a stable harvest, and Malognezdny is well preserved. Podzimny "Carmen" forms purple bulbs weighing up to 120 grams. "Silver Prince" is considered the most productive among the varieties of winter sowing. "Strigunovsky" stands out for its sharp taste and early maturity.

Bulb selection

Heat-loving varieties that are not resistant to frost should not be used as a podwinny material. Pre-onions are sorted by size: the largest, medium and small. Oats are called specimens up to 1 cm in diameter. Sevok is larger. Its size is up to 3 cm. Selection onions are bulbs over 3 cm in size. Nigella seeds are called seeds that are laid to obtain sets. It should be remembered that onions larger than 2 cm can throw arrows.

The calibration of the planting material improves the quality of the crop and correctly distributes the planting material in the garden. All three size categories of onions are planted separately, so the seedlings stand together, the plants grow about the same and are strong. The bulbs must be dry and free from mold and rot.

Attention! "Dried and damaged specimens must be discarded."

Choosing a site for planting and preparing the soil

Bulbous plants are not compatible with all crops. Onions are planted after harvesting courgettes, tomatoes, carrots, cucumbers, vegetable peas, cabbage with an early and medium ripening period, potatoes and legumes. The soil must be dug up, mineral fertilizers applied, then slightly compacted or left to settle naturally. Crops should not be planted in a low-lying area, otherwise the planting will be flooded when the garden begins to thaw.
The soil should be light and well drained. Humus-sandy soils and loams, silt deposits are optimal. It is recommended to choose the southern or southwestern part of the garden with a slight slope that prevents water accumulation. It is desirable that the area be protected from strong gusts of wind by larger tall plants.

When digging, fertilizers are applied per 1 m2 in the amount of:

• humus 5–6 kg;
• potassium salt 10-15 g;
• superphosphate 20-25 g

Advice: “instead of potassium salt and superphosphate, you can add an eco-phosphate to the beds. Before planting, ash is scattered in the amount of 10 g. The soil must contain a sufficient amount of moisture, if necessary, it must be pre-moistened. "

Step-by-step onion planting

Planting onions before winter is carried out in the grooves. The sevok and wild oats should be planted in grooves 4–5 cm deep in 5–7 cm increments. The distance between the grooves on the bed should be at least 15 cm. This distribution is necessary for the correct formation of the bulbs. There is enough space for the plants, the formed growing heads do not oppress each other. If you plant onions on a feather, the distance between the plants can be reduced.

The grooves fall asleep, lightly tamping the soil with your hand. There is no need to water the garden. Watering is recommended 10 days after planting the planting material. At the first frost, the onion must be mulched with spruce branches, dry leaves, fallen needles, sawdust, and the contents must be pressed on top with branches so that the wind does not spread the mulch from the site. You can also use peat and humus for mulch. In a snowless winter and when the temperature drops below -15 °, the onions are covered with foil.

To prevent the bulbs from giving arrows, some gardeners recommend immersing them in water at 60 ° C for one minute. Heating the onions in the microwave is allowed. Each copy is wrapped in a cloth and placed in a glass container, which is heated for 2 minutes. Then the onion sets for planting in the fall are treated with a growth stimulant.

Batun onions are planted in the same way as onions. It can be planted during the first frosts down to -3 °. The minimum distance between the onions is 3-4 cm. The neck of the shallot is preliminarily cut, the bulbs are soaked in water at a temperature of 30 ° during the day. They need to be allowed to dry after soaking, only then planted.

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Nigella sows in grooves 3-4 cm deep. Dense planting of seeds is allowed, sprouted onions can later be thinned out for greenery on the table so that the remaining plants can form bulbs. Thinning can be done in two stages. During the second procedure, leave the distance between plants within 5-8 cm.

Fertilizers and care after planting

As long as the spring moisture remains in the ground, crops are not watered. In May, June and July, they make sure that the land does not dry out. Do not water the area with water below + 18 °, otherwise there is a high likelihood of powdery mildew. Watering is stopped 2-3 weeks before harvesting. Loosening of the soil is performed every two weeks after heavy rainfall or watering. Blackies need a little feeding with slurry or diluted mullein after thinning. Some gardeners plant black onions and grow them without top dressing.

Weeds create high humidity, so they need to be weeded out in a timely manner. High humidity contributes to the development of fungal diseases. Batun, on the contrary, feels great with abundant watering. Spraying plants with copper sulfate or copper oxychloride according to the instructions for the preparation will prevent fungal diseases. The batun is fertilized with mineral fertilizers and rotted manure after 3-4 leaves appear simultaneously with watering. It is recommended to add liquid soap to the solution.

Shallot also needs loosening of row spacings and abundant watering. Chicken droppings or mullein diluted with water are used as fertilizers. It is recommended to fertilize "Stuttgarter" with complex fertilizers until the beginning of July, when it is actively growing. Then feeding and watering is not carried out. After the foliage turns yellow and lodges on the beds, "Stuttgarter" is ready for harvesting by about August. Delay leads to decay of the tops and damage to the bulbs.

The main reasons for a failed landing

The main reason for unsuccessful planting is a violation of the cultivation technology and the wrong choice of a site for cultivation.With frequent precipitation and waterlogging of the soil, the cause of failure is untimely treatment of plants with antiseptics from fungi. Onions are planted in the same place only after a while.

Attention! "The earth should rest from bulbous for 3-4 years."

Violation of the ripening of the bulbs and active growth during the harvest period is due to an excess of fertilizer in the soil. They begin to actively throw out new feathers, the leaf becomes very high, lays down still green, causing rotting. The situation can be corrected by bending the green tops so that the stipules dry out. Such a crop is not subject to winter storage.

A healthy root system is the key to successful cultivation. Autumn planting of onions at a temperature of + 7-14 ° can give an excellent harvest. You should not rush to harvest the crop, otherwise it will be unsuitable for storage due to insufficient water in the head. Yellowed and withered feathers are a sign of readiness and maturity.

Pests and methods of struggle

The onion moth infects flower arrows and the underside of feathers. Its larvae eat away the flesh. The feather only has the skin left. The caterpillars of the moth damage the inflorescences, the neck and the head itself. During the season, the pest is able to breed two to three generations. The fight consists in the timely weeding and destruction of old, wilted and rotten plants, in which the parasite likes to settle.

The stem nematode leads to the complete loss of the crop. It is recommended to pre-treat the area with a solution of sodium chloride at the rate of 2 tablespoons per bucket of water. You should not sow onions in the same area every year. The territory must rest from bulbous for at least 3 years.
The onion fly causes yellowing, wilting and death of greenery. Planting carrots next to it helps scare off the pest. Moreover, both plants protect each other from pests. To scare off parasites will help a solution of tobacco in the amount of 200 grams per 10 liters of water. Laundry soap is added to it. Watering is carried out in the amount of 1 liter for each 1 m2 of planting.

Diseases and treatments

Cervical rot is a gray, indentation stain on the bulbs. At first, it appears around the neck, but then passes to the bottom and scales. This is a fungal disease. Onions must be thoroughly dried for 2 weeks and sprinkled with chalk or charcoal before placing in storage boxes.

Peronosporosis is a pale green spot that transforms into a grayish-purple bloom. The upper part of the greenery turns yellow and dies off. This fungus actively spreads in damp conditions. It is also called downy mildew. Sparse crops will become a prophylaxis. It is recommended to steam the planting material for 8 hours at a temperature of + 35 °.

We plant onions in late autumn

1. What are the advantages of planting onions in winter.
2. Onion varieties for autumn planting.
3. Where is it better to plant a winter road.
4. Pre-planting seed preparation.
5. When planting onions for the winter.
6. Planting winter onions.
7. How to protect a garden bed from frost.
8. Spring onion care.
9. What problems can arise when growing winter onions

Onions can be grown not only in a summer culture, but also planted before winter. Although less popular, it allows for an early harvest of onions.

Advantages and disadvantages of winter onions

Benefits of planting onions in winter.

1. Before winter, the smallest set is planted, the diameter of which is less than 1 cm, it is called wild oat. Such sets are not stored in winter and dries out. When planting in autumn, a double economy is obtained: the sowing is not only preserved, but also yields a harvest.
2. Possibility of getting early greenery in spring.
3. Getting a turnip harvest 3-4 weeks earlier.
4. Small bulbs used for winter planting do not shoot arrows, while hauls (large sets) always shoot arrows.
5. Less damaged by pests than an annual.
6. In the initial period of growth, it does not require watering, since after winter there is still enough moisture in the soil.
7. The bulbs are larger and more juicy due to the fact that their root system is more powerful.

The autumn planting of onions also has disadvantages:

1. Not all sevok will sprout in the spring.
2. If the planting time is mistaken, the yield will decrease.
3. The productivity of the winter road is somewhat lower than the summer road.
4. Winter onions are stored worse than spring ones.

In general, the technology has many more advantages than disadvantages. After harvesting the winter onion, it is used first of all, then the problem with safety is removed.

What kind of onion is planted before winter

All varieties of yellow and most varieties of red onions can be grown in winter culture. White onions are less suitable for winter planting. It is better to use varieties that are regionalized for a given region. If the variety is not zoned, there may be large attacks, or the onion will not come up at all.

Varieties that grow very well in winter culture are:

• Zodiac
• Viking
• Ellan
• Sturon
• Carmen.

Most of them are salad varieties that are not suitable for winter storage. They are used for canning and processing until the main crop ripens.

Best predecessors

When growing winter onions, crop rotation must be observed in the same way as for summer plantings. For all types of onion, green crops and cabbage plants are the best predecessors. Good predecessors are:

• tomatoes,
• melons (pumpkin, zucchini, cucumbers) in the southern regions - watermelons and melons;
• siderates (oil radish, mustard).

Onions should not be planted before winter after any root crops. After bulbous plants, including garlic and bulbous flowers, turnip cannot be planted.

Place for the autumn planting of onion sets

For planting onions before winter, choose a dry and sunny place. On waterlogged soil, the onions get wet, and in the shade, small bulbs are tied. The culture loves to be under the rays of the sun all daylight hours, then the yield will be higher. When shaded, the leaves grow intensively, and the setting of bulbs is delayed. In deep shade, the bulb may not set at all.

The bed should be located where in the spring the snow melts first and the water does not stagnate. With stagnant water on the site, the bed is made with a slope of 1 °, this is enough for melt water and precipitation to flow down.

With a close occurrence of groundwater, drainage is made of sand with a thickness of at least 3 cm.

Soil preparation for sowing

The site for planting onions should be with light, well-warmed soil. With a close standing of groundwater, winter onions are planted in high ridges (30-40 cm). Quickly compacting soils are dug up on 1-1.5 bayonets of shovels, light and sandy soils are dug shallow; with deep digging, the seedlings can go into deep layers and not rise in the spring.

The culture needs fertile soils with a neutral or slightly alkaline reaction (pH 6-7.3). Acidic soils are limy. Onions tolerate lime well, so it is brought in when preparing the soil for planting. To achieve a quick effect, fluff or ash is used.

For winter onions, and for other bulbous crops, fresh manure is not applied. It is also advisable not to use semi-rotten manure. From such fertilization, the onion grows out in winter, and the one that sprouts in the spring will give a large amount of powerful juicy greens, but will not tie the turnip.

The soil is prepared 2 weeks before planting. If you plant a sevok right after digging, it will go deeply and in the spring it may not rise. The earth must settle and settle. When digging, organic matter is introduced (except for fresh manure) a bucket of 1 m2, 20 g of superphosphate and 15-20 g of potash fertilizers. The plant tolerates chlorine well, so you can use potassium chloride. An excellent fertilizer is wood ash (0.5 bucket per 1 m2). When using it, potash fertilizers are not applied, and if necessary, liming the dose of lime is reduced. No nitrogen fertilizers are used in the fall, since they are washed out into the lower layers of the soil by melt water and are inaccessible to plants in spring.

On heavy, clayey, quickly compacting soils, sand is added 1-2 buckets per m2 to loosen them, depending on the density. On sandy soils, clay is added to retain moisture.

Preparation of planting material

For planting winter onions, a set is used, the diameter of which is not more than 1 cm. At home, such seed material is not stored and dries quickly, and when planting gives good large bulbs. A larger set is not suitable, because when grown in a winter crop in spring, it goes into the arrow and sets small onions. He devotes all his strength to the formation of seeds, inside he has a rod that prevents the tying of a turnip.

In order to select the planting material, a hole with a diameter of 1 cm is made in a cardboard box and the onions are sieved. The seed that went through the hole can be planted before winter.

2 weeks before planting, onions are soaked in warm water (temperature 45-50 ° C) for 3-4 hours. Heat treatment kills pests hibernating in the bottom of the eggs. Warming up should not be neglected, otherwise you may not get a harvest.

Immediately after warming up, seed dressing is done. Additional processing of onions from pests is not carried out, since all the eggs have already died. The main crop pest, the onion fly, appears at the beginning of summer. By this time, the winter road will get stronger, thicken, and the pest will not be able to get into the bulb.

For etching, you can use the preparations Tiram, Fitosporin M, Maxim, soaking oatmeal in them for 30 minutes. Copper preparations are not used for processing, they help well with downy mildew (peronosporosis), but they do not protect against root rot.

A good preventive effect is given by soaking in a saturated pink solution of potassium permanganate. Seed material is kept in solution for 45-60 minutes, then dried well.

Dates of planting onions in the fall

Winter onions are usually planted at the same time as winter garlic, in the middle lane this is mid-October. But, if garlic is planted in frozen ground, it will not freeze, and it will still rise in the spring. But the onion must take root, if it does not have time to give roots, then it will freeze in winter. Rooting oatmeal takes 14-18 days. In this case, they are guided by the weather, planting onions 2-3 weeks before frost. Onions in the ground can tolerate frosts down to -5-6 ° C, but if the wild oat is poorly rooted, it freezes over. In the spring, such plants have weak pale leaves; if severely damaged, they quickly die.

It is important to ensure that the onions do not sprout, otherwise, stuck in the frost, they will die. With prolonged warm autumn, onions are planted when the temperature drops below 6 ° C and does not rise above 5-7 days. In the pre-winter period, the soil has not yet frozen, and, at the same time, the seedlings will have time to take root, but will not germinate.

Planting winter onions

The planting scheme for wild oats depends on the purpose of the onion. When growing on a turnip, the distance between the bulbs is 10 cm, between the rows - 20-25 cm.When growing on a feather, a compacted planting is used: the distance between the sets is 2-3 cm, the row spacing is 8-10 cm.

Before planting, rows are made 5-6 cm deep, on the bottom of which a layer of sand 1-2 cm thick is poured. This is micro drainage. There should not be a lot of moisture around the bulb in late autumn and early spring, the sand just protects the seedlings from getting wet.

The oatmeal is planted to a depth of 3-4 cm and sprinkled with sand, and the grooves are covered with earth on top. Do not plant winter onions too deeply or too shallowly. With a deep planting in the spring, it will not be able to germinate, with a shallow planting, when the soil settles, the onion will be on the surface and freeze out in winter.

The soil should be slightly damp. If the autumn is damp, then after drawing the rows, the garden bed is allowed to air for 30-40 minutes, and then drainage is poured. In dry autumn, the rows are spilled with water.

Preparing the beds for winter

2 weeks after planting the onion, the beds are mulched with fallen leaves, hay, spruce branches, peat.Previously, you do not need to cover the plantings, otherwise the seedlings will be too warm and, with dry autumn, it will germinate, and with damp, it will get wet.

If the winters in the region are cold, but with little snow, then the layer of mulch is increased. When covering the beds with light material, so that it is not blown away by the wind, branches are placed on top. You cannot cover a bed covered with fallen leaves with foil. It does not allow air to pass through, condensation always forms under it, and in winter the seedlings will either freeze or rot.

If the winter is warm in the region, then the garden does not need to be mulched. In such situations, they are always guided by the weather in a specific area. For winter onions, the main thing is that the ground does not freeze before rooting.

Spring onion care

As soon as the snow has melted, the mulch is immediately removed, otherwise the sevok can rot. The winter road rises very early, like garlic. As soon as the sun warms up, shoots appear. The culture is not afraid of frosts down to -4-5 ° C, but if the nights are cold, the plants are covered with lutarsil or film. In the morning, the covering material is removed.

When plants are damaged by night frost, the tips of the leaves turn white, and the stem and leaves themselves acquire a whitish-yellow tint. In this case, they urgently give top dressing with potassium or calcium nitrate (fertilizers containing nitrogen), they help the onion to survive a stressful situation and contribute to the regrowth of new leaves. Urea cannot be fed at subzero night temperatures, since it contains pure nitrogen, and it, without the presence of other elements, reduces the frost resistance of plants.

In the first half of the growing season, the winter onion needs nitrogen, therefore, when the threat of frost has passed, top dressing is done with infusion of weeds, humates, or urea. After the formation of 5-6 leaves, potassium-phosphorus fertilizing is given (1 tablespoon of each fertilizer per 10 liters of water), or the onions are fed with ash infusion. But if the soil is fertile, feeding is not carried out.

You cannot feed the winter road with manure. The nitrogen contained in the manure is needed by the onion only during the period of feather growth, then it will prevent the formation of bulbs. But since manure decomposes slowly, the maximum amount of nitrogen enters the soil when the plant sets the bulb. As a result, the onion either continues to grow feathers, or, in rainy weather, rots.

The winter road is undemanding to watering. After winter, there is a sufficient amount of moisture in the soil, therefore, watering is not carried out in the first 20-30 days after germination. Then, in hot and dry weather, water the plants 1-2 times a week, depending on the air temperature. All watering (and liquid dressing) is carried out strictly at the root. The soil between the rows must be loosened. Onions are very sensitive to a lack of oxygen in the root zone, and if a crust forms on the soil, the bulb suffocates and rots.

If the onion is grown for a turnip, it is undesirable to cut off its feather. When the leaves are removed, the plants grow new ones to the detriment of the bulb. When the leaves are removed too much, the turnip turns out to be very small, and it may not even tie up at all.

After 35-50 days, depending on the variety, watering is stopped, and in wet weather, soil is raked off the turnip so that the bulb can breathe. From this time on, the ripening of the bulb begins and excess moisture harms the plants.

When the feather is lodged, the onion is ready for harvesting. The winter road ripens, depending on the region, in early to mid-July.

Growing failures

Main reasons.

1. Incorrect planting depth. Onions either do not sprout or freeze.
2. Planting too late. The wild oat freezes.
3. Waterlogged soil in spring. The onions rot.
4. Use of unusable planting material. The sevok dried up even before planting and the embryo died.

If all the rules of cultivation are observed, failures are minimized.

Problems in growing winter onions

Winter bows have the same problems as summer ones, but they are more acute.

First, the winter road is more demanding on fertilizers than the summer road.Immediately after germination, it experiences an acute nitrogen deficiency (like winter garlic). Summer onions need much less nitrogen.

Secondly, whitening of the tips of the leaves is often observed in onions planted before winter. This also happens with the summer man, but less so.

The main reasons for the whitening of the tips of the leaves.

№	Signs	Causes	Necessary measures	Notes (edit)
1	The tips turn white and dry out. The plant itself turns greenish yellow	Freeze damaged onion	Top dressing with complex fertilizer containing nitrogen	Pure nitrogen (urea, manure) cannot be fed, since the frost resistance of plants decreases
2	The tips turn white, and the leaves themselves acquire a yellowish tint.	Lack of nitrogen in the first half of the growing season	Top dressing with any nitrogen fertilizer	Fresh and semi-rotten manure cannot be used.
3	In the middle and end of the growing season, the tips of the leaves turn white, and they themselves slightly curl	Lack of potassium	Top dressing with any potash fertilizer	Fertilizers containing chlorine can be used
4	Only the tips of the leaves have turned white, and the feather itself is green	Lack of copper	Feeding with micronutrient fertilizers containing copper
5	The tips of the leaves turned white not only on the winter road, but also on summer onions and garlic	On the site is acidic soil	Deoxidize. For a growing culture, an infusion of ash is used. Water each plant (1 glass of infusion per plant)	It is better not to use lime on a vegetative culture.

The technology of growing winter onions has been known for a long time. But, nevertheless, it has not yet received wide distribution.

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Planting winter onions is recommended in order to get the harvest at least two months earlier. In addition, onions planted before winter are more resistant to diseases and unattainable for pests. In this article, we will look at how winter onions are planted in the fall, what is the planting and growing scheme.

What is the advantage of winter varieties

Autumn planting of onions is convenient for the following reasons:

• There is no need to create conditions for storing seeds all winter - seeding. For autumn planting in the ground, special seeds are used, called wild oats. Their size does not exceed 1 cm in diameter and during the winter they can lose their qualities and dry out..
• Early seedlings are not susceptible to common onion diseases, since the cold ground does not promote the spread of fungi, pathogenic bacteria and pests. By the time they go into effect, the bow will be in good condition, and then the bow is removed.
• For planting in the fall, special varieties of onions have been developed, which are distinguished by frost resistance and resistance to the formation of arrows.
• Planting in the ground in the fall allows you to get green onions in late April or early May. A marketable bulb can be grown by June. For comparison: with spring planting, the bulb ripens only in late July or early August (depending on the region).
• Sown area is saved, because after harvesting winter onions, some vegetables can be grown. This property is especially valuable in the south of Russia, where the warm period lasts longer than in the middle zone.
• Most of the growing season occurs in the spring when the soil is still wet. As a result, winter onions need to be watered less frequently than in summer.

One of the benefits of growing winter onions is that the heads grow large.

Where to get seed for winter sowing?

Since the bulbs of winter onions are not large - up to 1 centimeter in diameter, they are not able to form arrows, since they do not have enough energy to deliver nutrients to the height of the formation of new seeds. However, they have enough strength to form a juicy green feather, and then a bulb.

Sorting of seed by bulb size is carried out according to the rules given in the table.

Material name	Landing time	Bulb size
"Ovsyuzhka"	Winter	Less than 1 cm
First category	Winter, spring	1 to 1.5 cm
Second category	Spring	1.5 to 3 cm
"Samples"	Spring	More than 3 cm

Seeds are usually purchased from specialized stores. The assortment of sellers includes such varieties as: "Wolf F1", "Kip-Well", "Senshui Yellow", "Buffalo", "Avanti", "Augusta", "Radar" and "Radar F1", "Sturon", " Danilovsky "," Odintsovo "," Stuttgarten Riesen "," Ibis F1 "," Imago F1 "," Balstar F1 "," Extra Earley Gold F1 "," Music F1 "," Panther F1 "and others. They are frost-resistant, not subject to shooting and give high yields.... In some varieties, the sets are larger than the usual size of a winter bulb by 1 cm.

Sevok variety Sturon. It is better to buy sevok in advance during the period from February to March, when you can find any variety

Experienced gardeners prefer to grow winter seedlings on their own.... The process looks like this:

• In the spring, after the snow melts, nigella is sown thickly in strips of up to 5 centimeters - onion seeds.
• The row spacing is formed so that it is convenient to weed the weeds.
• Crops are covered with sifted earth with a small (2 centimeters) layer of earth, rolled a little to prevent wind erosion of the soil and mulched with humus, straw or other suitable material.
• Watering of crops is carried out, which is repeated after the appearance of the first shoots, and later when the soil dries out.

Each time after heavy rain, the beds should be loosened to facilitate air access to the roots.

This is how the buds look in the middle of the growing season, in which the nigella is formed.

Tip # 1 It is not recommended to strongly feed the grown onion sets. Otherwise, there is a risk of loss of seed properties.

After yellowing of the onion leaves and their lodging, the plant is removed from the soil and left on the ridge to dry. Then the bulbs are separated from the dried leaves and sorted: everything that is less than 1 centimeter is intended for planting in the fall, everything that is more than 1 centimeter is set aside for planting next spring. All damaged seed is eliminated.

What predecessors will not harm onion crops?

Before planting winter onions, you should carefully look at their predecessors. It is preferable that previously at the selected place grew:

• peas, beans and other legumes;
• grain crops (rye, corn and others);
• various types of salads and cabbage;
• early ripening potatoes;
• tomatoes;
• cucumbers;
• carrots and beets.

The best results are obtained when the previous crops on the site were corn, potatoes or white cabbage. It is not recommended to plant winter onions after oats.

Experienced gardeners recommend growing green manures before planting, mowing about 30 days before planting and embedding them in the soil. This improves the structure of the soil and increases its fertility.

How to prepare the soil for planting winter onions?

For winter onions, a dry, ventilated area is allocated. Wet soil, and even in winter, will ruin the plantings. The best soil for onions is considered to be humus mixed with sand or loam.. If the site is close to subsoil water, drainage must be done.

The soil is prepared in advance, for which the area allotted for the onion is dug up, humus or fertilizers given in the table are added.

Fertilizer name	Soil application rate, g / sq. m
Superphosphate	20-25
Potassium salt	10-15
Ekofoska	30

Wood ash is poured into the holes immediately before laying the seeds.

Nevertheless, it is better if humus is introduced under the predecessors, then by the time the onion is planted, it will completely acquire the structure of the soil.

When choosing an area for planting onions, one must also proceed from the fact that it is undesirable to plant onions in one place for more than two years in a row. Then a plot of at least five should be occupied by other crops.If this condition is not observed, the soil becomes infected with pathogenic substances, which even frost cannot destroy.

The scheme for planting onion sets is as follows. Planting bulbs at a distance of 12 cm between seedlings and 25 - 30 cm between rows. The onions are planted with their roots down and covered with earth.

When to plant winter onions?

Onions are planted before winter in September, if the site is located in the southern regions of the country, in August - if in the middle lane. It is necessary to plant the bulbs in the ground at least a month before the onset of stable frosts. Usually they are guided by a stable temperature of + 5 ° C; when it lasts for a long period, it is time to plant winter onions. If these conditions are met, the plants manage to release 4-5 leaves, and the neck diameter reaches 5 millimeters.

However, varieties appeared that should be introduced into the soil by the end of August. The main condition remains one - to collect 3-4 sheets by frost. Such plants have a slightly longer growing season, which allows them to root thoroughly in the cold.

How to plant winter onions?

The rules for planting winter onions are as follows:

1. In a carefully loosened area, grooves are cut, 5 centimeters deep. The distance between furrows is from 10 to 25 centimeters. The depth of laying the bulbs can be even greater (up to 10 cm) if the growing region is characterized by strong frosts.
2. The bulbs are planted in ridges at a distance of 4 to 10 centimeters from each other. The size of the gaps depends on the size of the seed bulbs.
3. The bulbs are covered with a mixture of garden soil with sand or humus. The ridges are watered and in the future the soil should be moist before the onset of frost.
4. The ridges are mulched with autumn leaves, straw, etc. to protect against severe frosts and snowless winters. The layer of mulch should be the thicker, the more frost is expected. In spring, the mulch layer is partially removed and used for other purposes.

Seedlings in autumn shortly before frost. In spring, planting onions is sprinkled with mulch, which prevents the onions from drying in the sun. Mulch consists of needles, leaves and dry grass

Tip # 2: When planting before winter, the neck of the bulbs is not cut off so that decay does not occur.

Tip # 3: The ridges should be raised slightly above the main site. Then the bow will not be threatened with flooding.

How to properly care for crops?

In autumn, the main thing is to observe the seedlings and cover them in time in the winter.

In the spring, the following activities should be carried out:

• Reduce the mulching layer on the ridges or remove it altogether if the quality of the soil allows.
• Thin crops intended for growing turnip onions, if there is a strong thickening. The distance between individual plants depends on the expected size of the finished bulbs.
• Loosen the ridges, if possible in dense crops.
• Feed the plants with nitrogen fertilizers.
• Water crops regularly if the soil dries quickly.
• To combat pests and diseases, treat green onions with chemicals several times. It is worth applying folk methods of confronting negative factors, if there are any in the arsenal. A bear, onion fly, powdery mildew, etc. can get a decent harvest of winter onions.

Tip # 4: Fresh manure for onion crops cannot be applied. Otherwise, they will either die from an excess of nitrogen, or give a crop unsuitable for storage.

Gardeners' mistakes when planting winter onions

Here are the most common mistakes gardeners make when planting onions in the fall:

1. At the sevka of winter onions, the necks are cut, which leads to decay of the bulb in early spring.
2. In the fall, planted sevok, grown independently, and exceeding the size of 1 centimeter. In the spring, you should expect the appearance of many arrows and, as a result, crop losses. Larger sows can be planted before winter only if they are purely certified winter varieties..
3. When self-cultivation of seeds, nigella was sown too thickly, and the pick was not carried out.High-quality sevok cannot be obtained under such conditions.

Practice recommendation. What kind of winter onions to plant for storage

Among the varieties of winter onions, we will single out Kip-Well. From the practice of gardeners:

The weight of the seed reaches 10 grams. It is planted in October and before frost it manages to take root and bring out a few leaves. Due to the size of the bulbs, the distance between them is up to 10 cm, between the rows is 25 cm. The final bulbs declared by the developer of 300 grams do not come out, but getting an onion of 150 grams is real. It is well kept and justifies the translation of the name from English.

Answers to topical questions of gardeners

Question number 1. Why is it necessary to use only 1 cm sowing for winter sowing?

Such seeds, by their smallness, are not able to provide food for green shoots turning into arrows. Their strength is only enough to form a small feather, and then to create an onion for food. If you introduce an onion larger than 1 cm in size in the fall, it will inevitably try to release an arrow in the spring, and then form seeds. She has enough energy to feed offspring in the form of future nigella.

Planting winter onions when planting, if the seedlings were larger than the prescribed size. Dangling arrows are visible in the image.

Question number 2. How long after chemical treatment can green onion feathers be picked?

When chemicals are used to control pests and diseases on onions, it takes time for them to decompose in the tissues of the plant. For the onion to become safe, it must take 7 to 10 days from the date of processing. More is possible, less is not.

Question number 3. Is it possible to do without chemicals at all for winter planting?

You can do without chemistry when planting, preparations will be required only in the spring, when the process of active vegetation begins. But even then it is possible to exclude chemistry, using manual labor (weeding, cutting weeds) and folk methods of dealing with negative factors.

Question number 4. How many years later can you return to planting onions on the site?

For the full restoration of the quality of the soil suitable for planting onions, at least 5 years must pass.

Question number 5. How much seed will come out of nigella, and what yield can you get from one hundred square meters?

Reference books give the following data: 100 grams of nigella contains about 30 thousand seeds. In the future, it all depends on the density of planting.

From one hundred square meters, the harvest of winter onions can be harvested according to the norms established by agricultural producers, up to 300 kg. In reality, of course, the harvest is less, but it all depends on the conditions created on the site.

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More than five thousand years ago, the golden onion was already known to our ancestors. As a cultivated vegetable plant, onions began to be actively cultivated on mountain slopes about a thousand years ago in Iran, Afghanistan and Turkmenistan.

Today, there are over 900 varieties of this culture. The most popular among gardeners are shallots, batun, leek, branched, Chinese, wild garlic and others.

How to plant onions before winter

Spicy and sweet, leafy and bulbous varieties are actively used as food by peoples all over the world. Every Russian consumes from 8 to 10 kg of onions per year. Onions - culture capricious... In case of insufficient humidity, it throws out arrows, and in damp weather it rots.

During winter storage, certain conditions must also be observed, since at high temperatures the bulbs dry out, and after a low temperature during planting, the bulb goes into peduncle.

Despite the capriciousness, onion beds are present in every personal and summer cottage. To get abundant harvest strong golden bulbs, when planting, it is necessary to take into account some of the features of this plant:

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• onion is a biennial plant;
• short fibrous root system has low absorption;
• insufficient illumination is poorly tolerated;
• being a frost-resistant crop, onions tolerate spring frosts on soil down to minus 3 ° C;
• high temperatures, above + 25 ° C, stop the growth of onion leaves.

The effectiveness of planting onions in the fall before winter has been known for a long time.

In 1993, LS Borisenkova in her brochure "Onions and Garlic" described in detail the method of winter cultivation and the varieties of suitable onion varieties.

However, some vegetable growers today do not know and do not use this technique.

Choosing a site for planting onion sets in autumn

In order for winter onions to overwinter and give a good harvest, the site for winter planting must meet certain requirements:

• the bed for growing winter onions must certainly be well lit. The landing site should be completely exposed to sunlight, but not in a windy place;
• the onion bed must be cleared of weeds, since pests will remain in them in winter, and in the spring these plants will take away moisture and nutrients from winter bulbs for active growth;
• onion varieties do not like soil in lowlands with high humidity. It is recommended to raise the bed for planting onions before winter in the Moscow region by 20-25 cm;
• winter onions are recommended to be planted after cabbage, potatoes, tomatoes, peas, zucchini. In the same place, this culture is planted after 4–5 seasons.

Before planting in autumn, the soil is recommended disinfect solution of copper sulfate (1 tbsp. l. per 10 liters of water), and also fertilize.

Strong large bulbs grow when a mixture of peat, wood ash, humus, potassium salt and superphosphate is added to the loose soil.

Selection of onion varieties and preparation of sets

For planting onion sets in the fall, sharp early varieties are recommended.

Early ripening variety Stuttgarten Riesen popular for the pungent taste of its dense, large, flat-round bulbs and early ripening. Centurion is distinguished by high yield and low morbidity.

Its identical bulbs - turnips with dense scales are well preserved. Shakespeare hardly shoots, has a soft and very juicy fragrant pulp. Varieties Baron and Radar are good fresh. Spicy and rich, large bulbs ripen quickly, but do not last long.

Varieties Shallot and Batun planted before winter for the sake of early greenery. Their green, succulent leaves grow 2-3 weeks earlier than all other varieties. The varieties Strigunovsky, Myachkovsky, Silver Prince, Carmen, Malognezdny and others are suitable for winter cultivation.

The size of the onions for winter planting is divided into four groups:

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• ostyuzhok - the smallest heads, less than 1 cm, are best suited for winter planting, as they dry out until spring. With winter cultivation, they give a good yield;
• the highest yield is given by heads of category 1 in size from 1 to 1.5 cm;
• Category 2 bulbs with sizes from 1.5 to 3 cm and samples larger than 3 cm are planted to obtain early greenery.

How to plant onions before winter

Onion seeds, nigella, grow in the first year from the flowers of the onion turnip. Before winter, vegetable growers sometimes sow nigella under a film or non-woven agrofibre.

Sevok for planting onions for the winter is selected using a peculiar sieves... Round holes with a diameter of 1 cm are cut into the cardboard sheet and the bulbs are sieved. The onions that have passed into the hole can be planted. To prevent the onion from going into the arrows, it is recommended to immerse the selected heads for 2 minutes in water at a temperature of 60 ° C before planting.

The recommendations of experienced gardeners when and how to plant onion sets before winter will help to correctly plant onion sets before winter.

Each gardener decides for himself when to plant onions before winter. Autumn planting time is from 5 to 20 October at an air temperature of + 2- + 3 ° C. The second week of October is a good time when the onions have time to take root, but the leaves do not have time to germinate. In early spring, winter bulbs grow quickly due to the moisture accumulated in the ground.

The bed dug up with the applied fertilizers is leveled.When the soil subsides in a few days, the sorted seed is planted in grooves to a depth of 3-5 cm. At a deeper planting, the onions rot. Between the beds it is recommended 15–20 cm, between the heads 6–8 cm. To obtain early greenery, the seedlings are planted in nests of 4–6 onions. The soil layer above the onions should not exceed 1.5–2 cm. To prevent the seedlings from jumping out during rooting, the soil in the garden bed after planting is lightly pressed with palms or a wide board.

Into the soil nitrogen fertilizers - urea or saltpeter - stimulate the growth of leaf mass. Therefore, when growing onions on heads, they are not recommended.

In order for the winter onions to winter well, actively sprout in the spring and give a bountiful harvest, it is recommended to cover the garden bed with peat, dry leaves or humus (with a layer of 2-3 cm) after planting, and cover it with straw in case of severe frosts. The cover layer also helps to trap the thawed spring water. In winters with little snow, it is recommended to shovel snow onto the garden bed or cover it with a film.

Spring care of the onion bed

Mulching in spring after snow melting layer and film are removed. Carefully, without damaging the sprouts, shallow grooves are made above the rows. This allows the soil to warm up faster and dry out excess moisture. If frosts below -3 ° C are expected, it is better to cover the garden with foil or agrofibre.

The first feeding is recommended with a liquid solution of 1:10 mullein or bird droppings. In mid-May, a second feeding with nitrophos or mullein is carried out. It is recommended to feed the soil with potassium sulfate, superphosphate or wood ash before the bulbous heads are formed.

If there is insufficient rainfall in May and June, the beds must be watered. In a rainy summer, fertilizers are applied dry between rows to a depth of 5–6 cm.

Onion pest and disease control

A pest that can destroy the harvest of juicy onions - onion fly... Appearing in mid-May, this insect is capable of giving offspring three times before frost in the form of white larvae. It reproduces poorly in dry weather. The smell of calendula repels the onion fly. Spraying diseased plants with tincture of wormwood or tansy helps.

Some onion diseases require extra care to preserve the crop. In humid warm weather, small yellow specks appear on onion feathers - rust. When harvesting, you can find gray rot on turnips. Before storing the crop, the onions must be well dried in the sun. Seeds and bulbs can be infected with powdery mildew. These seeds planted in the spring will lead to infection and death of the entire crop.

The alternation of planting different vegetable crops in the beds, disinfection of the soil and airing the room in which the root crops are stored helps to avoid contamination of the bulbs with various harmful fungi.

Planting onions before winter has a number advantages:

• small sevok does not disappear, but grows into large bulbs;
• no need to save seeds;
• winter onions ripen faster, give less arrows, keep longer;
• winter bulbs grow larger and healthier;
• in spring, time is freed up for planting other plants;
• in the fall, sets are cheaper.

Correct planting of seedlings before winter gives a bountiful harvest of large and juicy bulbs.

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