Raspberry imperial outdoor planting and care for beginners

Many legends, predictions, and even modern songs have been composed about such a delicious delicacy as raspberries. What is the secret of the berry? In its beauty, taste and benefits!

That's why planting and caring for raspberries in the open field Are important questions asked by most gardeners. The information presented and the general rules given will also be of interest to beginners in horticultural culture.

Types and varieties of common raspberries

Common raspberry - a shrub belonging to the pink family, quite popular in summer cottages in Russia.

The fruits of the plant ripen in June, and by July the shrubs are full of attractive red sparks.

The fruits are preferred for fresh consumption, but are often used to make berry jam for the winter. It is known that raspberry jam is the best medicine for colds.

Common raspberries are divided into several types, each of which includes a huge number of varieties. There are the following types of common raspberries:

Raspberry varieties have their own characteristics and rules for growing, but in general they are similar, so no selection should be made here.

Another thing is remontant varieties, which began to be used for self-cultivation in summer cottages in Russia quite recently.

But, despite some innovation in the cultivation of the presented varieties, remontant varieties have gained their popularity.

Raspberry remontant and ordinary, video:

The best varieties of remontant raspberries

Repaired raspberry varieties differ in their ripening times. Literally from English, the word "remontant" is translated as "continuously bearing fruit."

Indeed, the varieties of the subspecies presented were bred by breeders for a long harvest, which is currently used for production and commercial purposes.

If the gardener decided to opt for a remontant variety, then he should know that these shrubs will bear fruit all summer and even late autumn.

You just need to provide them with proper care, for example, create a "greenhouse" using a covering material or polyethylene.

Despite the features presented, it is important to decide on the acquisition of a variety that is more suitable for planting in the existing region.

So, the best and unpretentious varieties of remontant raspberries are distinguished:

Atlant

- easy to grow, since it does not differ in high growth and density, but gives an excellent harvest of very impressive sizes. It should also be noted that

this variety is distinguished by the presence of a small number of thorns

, which, moreover, are dull and do not cause any inconvenience during care and harvest. The fruits ripen

from August to the end of November

(

before frost

). From one bush, with proper and careful care, you can collect

up to 7-8 kg of berries

.

Apricot

- has a lot of thorns, which are rather thin and cause inconvenience when harvesting. But these shortcomings are compensated by numerous

positive aspects in the form of frost resistance and lack of susceptibility to diseases and pests

... This variety takes root well in any soil, which is also to the taste of summer residents.

Indian summer

- shrubs grow low, only 140 cm. The variety is resistant to diseases and is distinguished by the rapid growth of new shoots, which also bear fruit well. Significant differences in the variety are presented in the form of the ripening period of the fruits - mid and late autumn.

Bryansk marvel

- the shrub has no more than 7 shoots, which bear fruit with large berries weighing 11 g. The variety is popular in Russia due to its frost resistance. So, the shrub can withstand the temperature

down to -30 ° C

... The fruits of the presented variety are distinguished by their density and a certain dryness, therefore they are used for transportation or processing.

Yellow giant

- has a yellow tint of berries that ripen in autumn. This variety is great for lazy gardeners for self-cultivation, since the shrub can grow without additional care and even watering from planting to fruiting. The bush grows tall, up to about

3m

in height, and can please 12-15 kg of ripe, tasty and large berries.

These are the most popular and at the same time the best varieties of remontant raspberries.

It should also be noted that almost all of them are suitable for growing in any region of Russia, which is great for novice gardeners who have not yet learned all the secrets of planting and caring for raspberry bushes.

Features of planting common raspberries

As mentioned above, all varieties of common raspberries have similar points in planting and growing characteristics. To get a large harvest, you need to accurately study how to plant raspberries.

Site selection

The shrubs of the presented plant need places that are lighted and protected from the wind so that they can fully bear fruit and avoid oppression by external factors.

But, among other things, when choosing a place, you should pay attention to the following aspects:

1. Raspberry bushes do not like to grow in the "former places" of growth of strawberries, peppers, eggplants and potatoes. Of course, there is no need to plant seedlings on virgin soil, but it is better to avoid places where the presented berries and vegetables previously grew.
2. Also, common raspberry does not like the soil, where the previous berry seedlings were planted earlier. No amount of soil improvement will help in growing new shrubs.
3. Pay attention to areas where parsley, dill, onions, garlic and various legumes are constantly grown.
4. Alkaloid lupine can be planted a year before cultivation in the target area - this is an excellent cleaner plant that will prevent the development and adverse effects of the crustacean on the root system of raspberry bushes.

You also need to pay attention to the composition of the soil.

Firstly, it should consist of light loam so that the necessary moisture can be supplied to the root system of the shrubs.

Secondly, groundwater in the selected area should be located no deeper than 1.5 m.

Thirdly, the soil in the selected area should be enriched with fluorine and calcium.If this is not the case, it is necessary to add the listed components additionally.

When choosing virgin soil or already "tired" soil, it is better to nourish it so that the root system of raspberry bushes is saturated with useful microelements and is more likely to get used to a new place of residence.

So, the composition should be prepared by mixing 10 kg of humus, 400 g of ash, 50 g of potassium sulfate and 100 g of superphosphate. The presented mixture should treat the area by scattering the resulting composition over the surface and digging it into the bayonet depth of the shovel.

Preparing cuttings

Before disembarking, you need to properly prepare raspberry seedlings... This is done taking into account the following aspects:

• damaged or weak root branches should be cut off;
• all obtained cuts are processed with charcoal;
• the shoots of seedlings are also cut off, leaving only 20 cm;
• on the remaining areas of the shoots, it is necessary to remove all the leaves;
• before planting, it is necessary to put the stalk in water, and already before immersion in a hole or trench, the root system of the seedling is carefully straightened.

Before planting, it is important to carefully consider the root system of the seedling, which may be not only damaged, but also infected.

Normal healthy raspberry roots are white or gray branches that are fairly dense and long.

Planting raspberries

Implemented planting raspberries in spring immediately after the snow melts from the soil and it warms up for a short time.

Disembarkation can be carried out in two ways: one implies landing in pits, which are created in a sequence similar to the formation of a bed, and the second method later turns out to be the most convenient, since it involves the preparation of a trench.

1. Landing in a pit.

Hole planting is the simplest. Here it is necessary to prepare a hole, the depth and width of which depends on the root system of the shrubs. An important condition is planting 2 bushes in one hole, which occurs in the sequence:

1. cuttings are immersed in the ground to about the depth of a person's thumb, no longer follows;
2. after planting with soil, cover the root system and lightly press it;
3. it is better to immediately tie the cuttings to a rope and a stretched wire, which can be located on a wooden, previously prepared, structure;
4. planted cuttings are moderately watered with water that has settled in the sun.

This method of planting does not require lengthy preparation, with the exception of a wooden structure with wire.

Such a structure can not be built on purpose, but use stakes from tomatoes, however, such a tying can cause a lot of trouble.

2. Landing in a trench.

If seedlings of larger varieties are chosen for planting, it is better to give preference to the formation of trenches, where the distance between the rows is 1 m, and between the bushes - 70-80 cm.

Trenches should be dug to a depth of 40-50 cm and a width of 60-70 cm. After placing the seedlings, the passage should be mulched.

Experienced gardeners are advised to lay out pieces of linoleum to prevent weed growth.

A few words about planting remontant raspberries

The repaired varieties of the presented berry differ somewhat in the planting of seedlings. There are the following features here:

• Terms - remontant varieties are planted in the fall, a week before the first frost. Some cultivars need extra cover, especially if the seedlings are planted in cold regions. The rest can take root and grow up in size to the average mark over the winter.
• Pit depth - here for all varieties, pits 35-50 cm deep are provided, since their root system is more developed than that of common raspberries.
• Density - remontant varieties are planted discharged. On average, there are 2 bushes per 1 running meter, but if the planted variety reaches a high size, this distance can be increased.

When planting a remontant variety, it is better to fully comply with the rules and peculiarities of planting, since otherwise, violations will lead to hassle during care and harvesting.

The process of care and reproduction of remontant varieties and common raspberries practically does not differ.

Raspberry care

How to care for raspberries so that in summer or autumn they give a ripe and large harvest? Here you should adhere to some rules that are inherent in most berry bushes.

Raspberry care in spring

Spring raspberry care does not present any difficulties and includes the following aspects:

1. After the snow melts, the area or trenches of the planted shrubs should be completely cleared. Here it is necessary to completely remove old foliage, which can "shelter" a large number of insects, which will then harm the growth of raspberries.
2. After picking up the debris, it is important to pay attention to the garter. If necessary, it is necessary to completely change the structure and wire, sometimes a complete "dressing" is required. The gardener's task is to evenly and neatly arrange the shoots in the area wrapped in wire. Some gardeners use a kind of twisting of shoots around a wooden channel.

After all the preparatory steps, the time comes for feeding raspberries in springwhere they use a shovel of cow dung and 5 g of saltpeter, which are bred in one bucket of warm water.

The shrubs are watered with the resulting solution in late March or early April - it is necessary to wait until the soil warms up.

Caring for raspberries after harvest

Harvesting can occur in summer or autumn, so you should consider the features of care after the presented period. Here, actions are taken to prepare shrubs for wintering. To begin with, if mulch was used, it is removed and burned on the site, since pests could settle in it.

Then you should dig the opened soil to a depth of 8-10 cm. It is recommended to apply fertilizers to such digging, especially if the seedlings are still young.

To nourish the soil, potash-phosphorus fertilizers are used, which are applied to grooves previously dug at a distance of 30 cm from the bush with a depth of 20 cm.

Watering shrubs

Favorable and fruitful growing raspberries cannot pass without watering. Of course, with normal rainfall, raspberry bushes will not have to be watered.

But it should be borne in mind that the berries are formed by obtaining the required amount of moisture. Therefore, in May and during the ripening of the fruits, you should pay attention to the soil. If the top layer is dry, then it is better to resort to additional watering.

Watering must be carried out during periods of drought and heat. Watered with a watering can, but abundantly - it is necessary for moisture to penetrate into the soil to a depth of 30-40 cm. If the bushes have been mulched beforehand, then much less liquid will be required.

An important condition is watering with water heated in the sun, a cold liquid will lead to the death of the root system.

Raspberry transplant

Quite often, raspberries have to be transplanted. There can be various reasons for this. For example, you initially chose the wrong place and did not get a good harvest. You just decided to carry out a "rearrangement" at the summer cottage or the neighbors asked to share the seedling.

Transplanting raspberry bushes is carried out according to the same principle as planting, with the exception of shortening the shoots and the root system.

It is better to do this in the spring, before the flowering period. The rest of the time, it is undesirable to disturb the bushes.

Over the past time, the root system has already given a large number of branches and shoots, which will not interfere with the transplantation of shrubs.

The advantage of the raspberry is that its root system is easy to cut with a shovel's bayonet without any major damage. The resulting sections are also treated with charcoal before being immersed in the ground.

Raspberry pruning

Spring Raspberry Pruning for Beginners - This is the removal of dead, frozen and weak shoots, which will no longer please with fruiting.

Pruning is carried out in April or May - it is necessary to wait until the weather is completely warm, on the basis of which it will be possible to see which shoots have grown better.

Experts say that the average density of raspberries is 10-15 shoots per 1 running meter. To do this, it is necessary to remove the frozen branches to a healthy bud, and the "defective" ones are cut off completely with the pruner. The remaining shoots should also be shortened by 15-20 cm.

Also, pruning is carried out in the fall, it is supposed to remove all old shoots. Here, two-year-old branches are cut from which berries were collected in summer or autumn, because next year they will no longer bear fruit.

Of course, it is difficult for beginners to identify such shoots, so new fruiting shoots can be marked with paint during the harvest season.

Pruning raspberries in spring, video:

Pest control of raspberries

Self-cultivation is a must processing raspberries in the spring from diseases and pests... The most common in garden plots are aphids, spider mites and leaf rollers.

Getting rid of them can be carried out during the period of the invasion, but it will no longer be possible to eat such berries, therefore, you should not neglect the preventive treatment of shrubs in the spring.

Any chemical treatment is carried out strictly before flowering. Here, universal means are used, such as "Topaz" or "Agat-25K".

Funds are used strictly according to the instructions so as not to harm yourself and others, as well as nearby disembarkations.

Features of the reproduction of raspberries

If you are happy with the harvest, you probably have thoughts of breeding. There are three breeding methods, one of which you might like. But the first method of reproduction is to grow seedlings from seeds, which is used only by breeders, because it takes a lot of time - up to several years.

The other two ways of breeding raspberries are in the following aspects:

1. Root offspring - the method consists in separating new shoots that grow in the second half of summer.

The offspring are separated with a shovel and planted separately in the ground at a permanent place. The hole is dug in accordance with the root system. Before placing the offspring in the hole, it is necessary to pour a liter of water into it.

2. Root cuttings - a long way, but very effective in getting used to a new place. Cuttings are separated during the removal or digging of offspring. Cuttings should be sorted out and separated only the best and largest.

Selected specimens should be collected in a bunch and put into boxes, where peat and sand mixed in equal quantities are laid out. The boxes are put away in a cool place until spring.

After the snow melts and the soil warms up, for planting bundles of cuttings, holes should be prepared at a distance of 70-80 cm and cuttings should be planted in them. After planting, the ground should be watered and covered with a film, thereby creating a greenhouse, which will help in the adaptation of root cuttings.

Pay attention to this material - Growing tomatoes on a windowsill in winter.

Both methods will help gardeners acquire a whole raspberry tree without spending a lot of money on it, which can be spent on the purchase of already grown seedlings in a fruit nursery.

After disembarkation, the offspring and cuttings are cared for in the same way as for adult raspberry bushes.

Raspberries have antipyretic, anti-inflammatory, diaphoretic and analgesic properties. Moreover, it can be used both fresh and in the form of jam.

You will be interested in this article - The best varieties of tomatoes for polycarbonate greenhouses.

A tasty treat is grown quite simply, so the presented opportunities should be used immediately.

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For the first experience of growing berry bushes, summer residents choose the most unpretentious of them. Planting raspberries will be an excellent practice for beginners in gardening and will delight experienced garden owners with its simplicity. It reproduces easily in many ways. Raspberries are grown even from seeds. But the advantages of a shrub are not limited to this.

Requirements for growing conditions

Raspberries grow well in an area open to the sun, reacting to a lack of light with a decrease in yield. Some gardeners grow it in partial shade, but this is only suitable for the southern regions. The bush does not like drafts, so you need to reliably protect it from strong northerly winds. Most often, plantings of raspberries can be seen next to fences, as well as near the walls of residential or outbuildings. This arrangement has its advantages. It helps to save the limited space of the site. From spring to autumn, barriers protect raspberry bushes from drafts, and in winter they hold snow near the plants and between them, preventing the plantings from freezing.

The composition of the soil is not the most important condition for the abundant fruiting of the crop. Light loams with certain characteristics are optimal for growing raspberries:

• neutral or slightly acidic reaction;
• good moisture permeability;
• rich supply of nutrients.

The peculiarity of the root system of the shrub is that it is located almost at the soil surface - at a depth of 15-20 cm. Therefore, it is not recommended to plant it on hills and slopes. On them, the plant will suffer from a lack of moisture. You should not place a raspberry tree in lowlands where water stagnates. The bushes of the culture do not like swampy soil. The close proximity of groundwater also adversely affects them. The minimum depth of their occurrence at the planting site of the shrub is 1.5 m.

Predecessors and site preparation

Answering the question of how to plant raspberries correctly, one cannot ignore its predecessors.

The shrub will be comfortable on the soil freed up after certain crops:

• legumes;
• Luke;
• parsley;
• garlic.

Advice

It is better to prepare a place for planting raspberries in advance, a year before sowing alkaloid lupine on the site. This will protect her bushes from the invasion of a dangerous pest - the beetle. Lupine is poisonous to its larvae.

It is not recommended to plant raspberries in the country in areas where last season there were beds with such plants:

• potatoes;
• tomatoes;
• pepper;
• eggplant;
• strawberries.

The reason is simple: these crops are vulnerable to the same diseases.

The raspberry tree will bear fruit successfully in one place, without bringing much trouble, for 12 years, then it is better to transfer it to another site. If this is not done, the yield of the bushes will decrease due to the natural depletion of the soil. Pathogens will also accumulate in it. It will be possible to grow a culture in the same place only after some time (4-6 years).

Before planting raspberries, thoroughly prepare the site. The soil is dug up and enriched with organic and mineral compounds:

• compost (humus, manure);
• superphosphate;
• wood ash.

Landing dates

Garden raspberries easily adapt to new conditions, so you can place plants in the country from spring to autumn, acting according to certain rules.

1. In spring, the right time for the procedure comes early, as soon as the soil warms up and a relative warmth is established. Raspberry seedlings, on which the buds have not yet had time to form and swell, take root well.
2. In summer (from early June to mid-July), you can plant raspberry bushes on a permanent site that have undergone preliminary cultivation in a greenhouse or at home. They will quickly take root and begin to develop actively, fully strengthening by the onset of cold weather. When buying material for summer planting, you need to choose plants with a closed root system. The risk of their death when placed in the ground is minimal.Such bushes are less sick and start growing faster, because during the procedure their roots are not damaged.
3. In the autumn, strong, well-ripened raspberry vines are planted. They will painlessly endure the frosty winter. They are placed in the ground until leaf fall continues.

Many summer residents believe that an autumn planting is more comfortable for a plant. At this time, raspberry survival does not interfere with strong heat, and constant soil moisture creates the most favorable conditions for its root system. With the arrival of warmth, overwintered bushes show rapid growth.

If the planting of raspberries is carried out in the spring, weather conditions greatly affect its result. Drought and heat will not benefit young plants. The culture is characterized by an early onset of sap flow. In many regions, by the time the seedlings are placed in the ground, leaves already appear on them. Even frequent and abundant moisturizing of the raspberry tree will not facilitate the process of their adaptation. Roots that have not yet taken root will not be able to provide the plant with water, while the leaves will evaporate it, drawing moisture from the shoots and weakening them. Pruning a bush will help here. Only buds that have not yet begun to grow are left on it.

Advice

When deciding for yourself when it is better to plant raspberries, it is important to take into account the peculiarities of the variety chosen for breeding.

Layout scheme

There are 2 methods of planting a crop:

• trench (tape);
• hole.

It is easier to cultivate raspberries in a bush manner in unprotected soil: it makes it easier to care for plants and soil. But with it, you need to be prepared for the rapid aging of the plantings. If you place the bushes on the site using the strip method, the raspberry tree will be updated on its own - with numerous root suckers. Also, with him, the area of ​​the garden is more efficiently used.

With the trench method, the area for the future raspberry tree in the country is preliminarily marked with a stretched cord. Then the planting furrows are dug. Their depth should be 35-45 cm, and their width should be 40-50 cm. They are made parallel to each other. A considerable distance is left between the trenches - 1.8 m. Having placed raspberry seedlings in the furrow, it is filled with a fertile substrate based on soil and humus. They complete the procedure by compacting the soil well. Such a planting scheme for raspberries assumes the location of its bushes with an interval of 0.5-0.7 m.

You can make the trench wider - a meter. Then, along its perimeter, it is recommended to dig in a border of slate sheets, deepening them by 30 cm.It should rise 3-5 cm above the soil surface.This will facilitate the introduction of manure and mulching and protect the area from filling with root shoots of the plant, to which Japanese raspberries are especially prone ... Making wide row spacings attractive by preventing weed growth is easy. It is enough to sow seeds of lawn grass or green manure.

With the hole method of planting raspberries, holes are dug around the perimeter of the site. You can arrange them in rows or staggered. The width, depth and diameter of the planting hole are made the same - 30 cm. Fertilizers are poured downwards - compost or wood ash. The distance between the rows does not change (1.8-2 m), but the bushes are placed in them less often - with an interval of 1 m.

Landing features

All varieties of crops, including exotic Japanese raspberries, which are becoming increasingly popular, prefer nutritious soil. In order for her bushes in the country to grow well for a long time and bear fruit abundantly, additives are added to the soil dug out of trenches or from holes:

• compost;
• superphosphate;
• potassium sulfate.

Advice

It is not necessary to apply fertilizers containing nitrogen into the planting pits or trenches, otherwise the plants will root poorly.

A little substrate is poured into the holes so that a small mound forms. If plants with an open root system are used, their lower part is dipped in a mullein solution or in a mash made from a nutrient mixture.Putting a raspberry seedling on a mound, fertile soil is poured into the pit. It is impossible to deepen its root collar, otherwise the bud located near it can rot, and the development of the plant will greatly slow down. That's right, if between it and the surface of the soil remains 1-2 cm.After its shrinkage, it will be at the level of the soil.

If the land in the country house is too wet, and the site is prone to flooding or is characterized by a close occurrence of groundwater, the shrub is grown on raised and wide (0.7-1.0 m) beds. Do not fill the trench with earth to the top. It is better to leave a small hollow. So, when irrigating a raspberry tree, less water is consumed, and natural precipitation is used more rationally: snow accumulates in a trench from the very beginning of winter.

Watering the plant abundantly (10 liters of water for 3-4 raspberry bushes), the site is mulched. You can use for this:

• peat;
• humus;
• sawdust;
• straw;
• dry leaves.

Saplings with well-developed buds require pruning. They are shortened to 30 cm. Supports for raspberries are best installed at the time of planting. It is convenient to grow shrubs on a trellis. It's easy to make. Pillars, pipes or thick wooden beams are dug in along the edges of trenches with planted raspberries, pulling 2 rows of wire between them (at a height of 1 m and 1.5 m from the ground surface). When the bushes grow up, they are tied to a trellis.

Generative reproduction

It is not difficult to grow raspberries from seeds, although this method of breeding is rarely practiced. Its main drawback is not even a lot of labor, but the fact that the properties of the mother bush are not transferred to the seedlings. It is widely believed among summer residents that when planting raspberry seeds, it will take more than one year to wait for the harvest. But this is not the case. With proper pre-sowing seed preparation, the plant will bear its first fruits next year. They start it even in the process of collecting planting material.

From fully ripe (better - overripe) fruits, juice is removed by placing them in a bag of gauze and squeezing thoroughly. Then the pulp with seeds needs to be dried a little. To do this, use paper or cloth, spreading the berry mass on it. Then they put it in a well-ventilated place. The sun's rays should not fall on it. When the raspberry seeds are slightly dry, they are mixed with sand and sown in boxes. You can put them in a cold greenhouse. Before the emergence of shoots, 2 parameters are carefully monitored: protection of crops from sunlight and constant soil moisture.

Another method of preparing raspberry seeds is also practiced. Water is poured into a slightly mashed berry mass, stirring well. High-quality seeds are heavy, they will settle to the bottom, and immature lungs will immediately float to the surface. After draining the water, the procedure is repeated several times. After drying the washed seeds, they are placed in the refrigerator, where they are kept at a temperature of +1 to + 5 ° C until planting, or sown in the beds. Friendly germination of raspberry seeds can be expected in moist and loose soil with an admixture of sand and peat. They are closed up shallowly - only 2-5 mm. When planting in spring, the beds are covered with foil.

Professionals recommend stratification of raspberry seeds. This is a simple but time-consuming process. After mixing the pre-soaked raspberry seeds with wet sand, they are wrapped in nylon cloth and placed in a container with moss. Then the container is placed in the refrigerator (on the bottom shelf) or in the basement, where the air temperature is + 2 ° C. It is necessary to regularly knead the contents of the packages so that the seeds and sand are mixed. Maintain high humidity, periodically sprinkling bags and moss.

After keeping the raspberry seeds in such conditions for 3-5 months, they are planted in the ground. They do this together with the sand. Sowing is carried out immediately after removing the contents of the bags, without drying it. Stratification significantly increases the germination of raspberry seeds.

Fundamentals of agricultural technology

Correct agricultural technology provides for a number of activities. But you should not be afraid of their abundance.Planting and caring for raspberries is easy and quick. The shrub loves watering. The lack of moisture negatively affects the taste of its berries and can even destroy the plants. But it is not worth pouring in the raspberry tree either. Moisturize plantings in the country not often (once a week), but abundantly.

Neighborhood weeds raspberry does not tolerate well. But constant weeding and loosening of the soil under the bushes can injure its roots, and the yield of the plant will decrease. Mulching will help in the struggle for the cleanliness of plantings. For it, use any organic matter (humus, dry leaves, sawdust, crushed bark), pouring it on the beds with raspberries in a thick (8-10 cm) layer. This mulch will significantly help the plant:

• protects against weeds;
• retain moisture in the soil;
• will fertilize it (after decomposition).

Raspberries will yield a good harvest if they are fed regularly. Its bushes can do without fertilization only in the first year after planting in organic-rich soil. Raspberry is fed three times per season. In early spring, fertilizers containing a lot of nitrogen are applied - ammonium nitrate, infusion of mullein or bird droppings. The second feeding is carried out when the shrub begins to bear fruit. Any complex composition or nitroammophoska is suitable for her. The third time the raspberry is fertilized in September. This top dressing will help the plants survive the winter painlessly and form flower buds. Potassium salt, superphosphate and wood ash are used for it.

Bush shaping and garter

In order to grow raspberries to consistently bring high yields, its bushes need regular pruning. With it, fruitful shoots are shortened and get rid of thickening stems and excess root growth. Of the numerous young branches in the spring, 5-6 of the strongest are left on the bush (according to the number of fruitful shoots, which they will replace in the future). The rest are removed at the base with a shovel or flat cutter.

When the shoots grow up and begin to ripen for the winter, another pruning is carried out. The raspberry branches are shortened by ¼, since their middle yields the greatest yield. Spring pruning of overwintered shoots on a plant is carried out to a strong bud (about 10 cm). Dried branches are removed completely. In the fall, the bush is relieved of two-year-old shoots that have already yielded a crop by cutting them out at the root.

Highly decorative Japanese and other varieties of raspberries are winter-hardy. But in severe frosts, plant shoots can still suffer. To prevent this from happening, in late autumn, raspberry bushes bend down, tilting them to each other and tying them. A layer of snow accumulated on them will protect the buds from freezing.

Long shoots of raspberries can break under the weight of the fruit. To avoid this, as well as to facilitate the care of the plantings, their garter to the trellis will help. It is carried out in early spring, until the buds on raspberries wake up. If they are already swollen, they can be easily damaged during the garter process. It is more convenient to grow raspberries on a double-leaf trellis. It looks like it is stretched in 2 rows of wires parallel to each other, but located in the same plane. Fruitful shoots of the shrub are attached on different sides, and young shoots develop in the center.

Raspberries are a bright representative of those rare cultures, which are almost impossible to ruin. Therefore, many summer residents begin their acquaintance with berry bushes with her. She is undemanding, hardy, high-yielding. The raspberry tree will not require much attention to itself, but you cannot leave it at all without leaving, otherwise the plantings will turn into impenetrable thorny thickets, and the crop grinds.

Certain varieties of culture are actively used in landscape design. Japanese raspberry bushes look spectacular from spring to summer, being covered first with flowers, and then with large ripening fruits. They are especially good in hedges. Nature has endowed raspberries with many beneficial properties. It is not surprising that you can find shrubs in almost every summer cottage.

Raspberries are often called the queen of the garden.This name is well deserved, because it is one of the most popular berry crops grown in personal plots. Raspberry deserved the love of summer residents by the fact that both sweet aromatic berries and leaves, and even shrub twigs are used in cooking. However, the plant is picky in planting and care. Consider how to plant raspberries in the summer.

Plant features

Raspberry is a perennial deciduous shrub. In one place, this representative of the genus Rubus can grow for 5-8 years or more, without losing high productivity. Repaired varieties differ in that they bear fruit several times a year.

Reference. An interesting feature of raspberries is that the berries appear on lignified stems of the second year. After fruiting, the twig dries up. A year later, new replacement shoots grow from the rhizome.

After 5-7 years, instead of two or three, only one bud sprouts at the base of the last year's shoot at the raspberry bush. The more years the shrub is, the less fruiting shoots of replacement it forms. Therefore, the bush needs rejuvenation. And so that there is always fresh raspberry on the table how to plant and care for it, the gardener needs to know.

Fruiting raspberries

A characteristic feature of most varieties is its ability to grow rapidly:

• the root system can take up a diameter of about 4 m, and the depth of the roots can be 1.5 m. This property helps the shrub to better tolerate drought, but adversely affects the yield;
• in summer, on the adventitious roots, many weak buds are formed in the form of tubercles, from which root shoots grow by the next season. They are pruned with a shovel by 5-7 cm. If you do not prevent the appearance of such a growth, the quality of fruiting will decrease.

Varieties and groups of raspberries

Depending on the degree of density of the growth, raspberry varieties are divided into three groups:

• the first group - includes the varieties Gusar, Modest, Meteor, Indian Summer. They can be planted quite close, as the shrubs are characterized by a moderate amount of growth. The number of replacement shoots in most cases is equal to the number of fruiting stems;
• the second group includes varieties that are characterized by a rare growth of growth. Such shrubs have a loose appearance - these are Hercules, Maroseyka, Pokusa;
• the third group is made up of varieties that abundantly give young shoots. Shrubs of the Heritage and Polana varieties will need to be thinned out.

Reproduction of raspberries

Raspberry varieties Hercules

To propagate a shrub vegetatively is available in several ways:

1. By dividing the bush. This procedure is carried out in the spring before bud break or at the end of the season after leaf fall.
2. Root offspring. In autumn, planting material with well-developed roots and buds is chosen.
3. Young growth. In summer, raspberry shrub propagation by cuttings is carried out in the first decade of June.

Important! If the gardener does not want to destroy the growth and use it more rationally, it is difficult to think of a better way than using it to propagate raspberries. But in order to get healthy and strong bushes, you should strictly follow some rules for planting raspberry cuttings: choosing a place, preparing a site and cutting and planting technology.

Choosing a place for planting raspberries

In addition to the fact that raspberries prefers places well lit by the sun and protected from the wind, you need to take into account some more nuances of site selection:

• it is undesirable to place raspberries in the beds where strawberries, peppers, eggplants, potatoes were planted earlier;
• it is not recommended to breed perennials again on those soils where there were old raspberries;
• a favorable place is the soil after harvesting parsley, dill, onions, garlic, legumes, calendula;
• it will be extremely successful to place young plantings on the site after alkaloid lupine - it perfectly cleans the soil from the crust, which causes irreparable harm to the raspberry plant.

Site preparation

The soil for the raspberry tree must meet the following conditions:

1. The composition of the soil is light loam.
2. Groundwater - no deeper than 1.5 m.
3. The earth must contain large amounts of fluorine and calcium.

Heritage raspberry

Before planting under raspberries, prepare a nutritious soil mixture:

• 10 kg of humus or compost;
• 400 g of ash;
• 100 g superphosphate;
• 50 g of sulfuric potassium.

Preparing cuttings for planting

Planting material, whether it be shoots or root cuttings, must be prepared:

1. Old, weak and damaged roots should be trimmed.
2. Treat the cuts with crushed charcoal.
3. Cut off the top of the seedling - the shoot should be no more than 20 cm long.
4. All leaves on the shoot are removed.
5. The stalk is placed in water for a while, shake and straighten the remaining roots before planting.

Reference. For the reproduction of a favorite variety, a gardener needs a single lignified shoot, a green offspring or a root cutting no more than 10 cm long, 3-5 mm in diameter. If there is a choice, it is preferable that the cuttings are larger and already have buds.

Trench preparation

Raspberries are planted in rows in trenches. The distance between the seedlings is kept 50-80 cm, between the rows - about 1 m.Trenches are prepared in the following sizes:

• width - 60-70 cm;
• depth - 40-50 cm.

The aisles are mulched to prevent weeds. Sometimes it is enough to throw in sheets of old cut linoleum. In the future, this will greatly simplify the care of the raspberry tree.

At the edges of the rows, posts are driven in, between which 2-3 wires are pulled. Later, raspberries will be tied to them. A third of the trench is filled with prepared nutrient soil mixture. After planting the seedlings, the remaining volume is covered with a layer of fertile soil.

Planting raspberries

Raspberry cuttings can be planted in several ways. The simplest is to plant 2 seedlings. in one landing pit:

1. The cuttings are immersed in the ground to the depth of the thumb.
2. After planting, it is not recommended to compact the soil; the soil around the seedlings is lightly pressed.
3. Each stalk is tied by the top to a stretched wire. In the future, you will need to tie up the shoots growing from the roots.
4. Watering is required in moderation, mainly in dry weather.

If there are few cuttings, they are advised to use them as sources of sprouts, which are subsequently rooted. For this:

• when the cuttings begin to peek out of the ground, they are piled up and the nutrient mixture is poured on top to a thickness of 2-3 cm;
• when the sprout grows above the ground and gives 2-3 leaves, it is cut off at the level of the appearance of the cutting;
• cut sprouts are planted in the ground to take root.

At the end of summer, shoots of the first year can be propagated by digging in the tops. For this, a special nutrient substrate is prepared from peat, compost and wood ash. Pots are made from this mass, which are installed on a gutter at a height of 20-30 cm above the ground. The stem is tilted to the pot and the top is planted there. Planting needs to be watered.

Reproduction of raspberries by layering

For faster rooting, the stem is wrapped in a plastic bag:

1. The bottom of the bag is cut off, one side is tied to the pot.
2. Pull it on a raspberry twig and tie it around the stem.
3. Such wrapped nurseries are watered 2-3 times a week without removing the package. For this, water is poured into the gutter.

In the last decade of September, the rooted shoot is cut off from the mother bush. It is planted without removing it from the nutrient pot. This type of reproduction gives better results than rooting the apex directly in the ground. From a sharp bend, the branches often break, the cuttings take root worse, and the raspberry itself develops poorly.

If weather conditions do not allow planting cuttings directly in open ground, they can be rooted in protected ground. For this, the nutrient substrate is prepared from a mixture of peat, turf soil, sand in a ratio of 2: 1: 1.Planting depth in a box is about 3-5 cm. Care consists in regular watering.

Raspberry care

In the year of planting, thanks to the nutrient-rich soil, raspberries do not need additional feeding. Of the compulsory agricultural practices for care - the provision of irrigation during dry periods.

The formation of a bush begins when the planted shoot reaches 15 cm in length. At this stage, it is pinched for the first time. When the newly formed shoots grow 20 cm, they are pinched again. The third pinching is carried out as soon as the stems of the third order stretch up to 20 cm. Subsequently, a well-branched shrub is obtained, which is capable of producing about 3 kg of berries.

An adult plant needs pruning. The shrub has a two-year fruiting cycle. The shoot of the first year yields no harvest. Berries appear in the second year of life, after which the stem dries up and other replacement shoots grow. Trimming is carried out according to the following scheme:

1. The bush is carefully examined to identify 6-7 strong young shoots.
2. The rest must be cut to the bottom.
3. After harvesting, the fruit bearing shoots are removed.

Important! In the process of sanitary pruning in early spring, no more than 15 cm of the top is removed. The middle part of the shoot produces fewer fruits than the top one. The lower part of the stem bears practically no fruit.

Raspberry roots are located close to the surface of the earth, therefore, they do not dig the soil near the shrub. Loosening of the soil is carried out only in the aisles. After that, mulching is performed.

Propagation of raspberries by cuttings

Plant residues of grain crops, freshly cut grass, compost, humus are used as mulch. The layer is made thick, sparing no raw materials. Such mulching retains moisture well and protects the roots from overheating on hot summer days.

Fertilization

Fertilizer is applied under raspberries in spring, summer and autumn.

1. In the spring, nitrogen fertilizers are applied, fed with urea, ammonium nitrate. The procedure is carried out before mulching. For 1 square meter of raspberry, 8 g of fertilizer is required.
2. In the summer, during flowering, a mineral complex containing nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium is introduced, after fruiting, potassium-phosphorus fertilizing is carried out, at the end of the growing season, raspberries need phosphorus fertilizers.
3. In autumn, green manures are used as fertilizer. Clover, white mustard are planted in the aisles of the raspberry tree in the middle of summer, and after harvesting in the fall, the mowed green mass is embedded in the soil.

Organic fertilizers become a good help. In the spring, the raspberry tree can be fed with a solution of mullein (1:10) or bird droppings (1:20). Bone meal is brought under the bushes in the summer. At the end of the season, wood ash is poured into the trunks.

By adhering to these simple rules, you can get a good fruiting bush in a few months. Choose high-quality planting material, root it correctly, apply enough fertilizer - and your garden plot will always have an excellent raspberry harvest.

Raspberry landing (video)

Raspberry is a common garden shrub. Ordinary varieties begin to bear fruit only in the second year after planting, and yield only one harvest per season.

Repaired raspberries are not very different from other varieties, but they have a significant advantage - they are capable of producing several harvests per year. As a rule, her overall yield is higher. Repaired raspberries are more resistant to diseases and pests common for this culture, therefore, the quality of the fruits is higher. In addition, it is easy to care for.

Another important feature is that almost all remontant varieties are large-fruited.

Unsurprisingly, remontant raspberries are so popular with gardeners. Such varieties are profitable to grow both on personal plots for personal use and on plantations for commercial purposes. We will tell you about the rules of growing, planting and care in this article.

Optimal planting time

Planting remontant raspberries in the open field is carried out both in spring and autumn. The most suitable time is autumn, the period from the end of September to the beginning of October. This is for temperate latitudes.

In more southern regions, planting can be done in late October or early November. In the fall, raspberries take root better, during the winter period they are not exposed to diseases, and in the spring the culture is already ready for intensive growth. However, it can be planted in early spring (before the buds have blossomed).

General advice for planting

Repaired raspberries take root well in light fertile soils. Groundwater should lie at a depth of at least 1 m from the surface of the site where the raspberry tree will be located. Repaired varieties require more light and moisture than regular raspberries.

The plant also needs a lot of heat. If the raspberries are located in the shade, then the ripening time will be postponed, and the harvest will not be plentiful. The area for the raspberry tree should be protected from strong winds (it is better to plant shrubs along the fence, wall of a house or other building).

Soil preparation

Before planting remontant raspberries in the open field, you should pay attention to the characteristics and type of soil. The most suitable type of soil is loam (soil containing clay and significant amounts of sand). The acidity index should be in the range of 5.8-6.7 pH.

If the soil is too acidic, then it is neutralized with dolomite, ground limestone or marl. Raspberries develop well if mustard or rye are poured into the ground 1.5 months before planting. It is not recommended to plant this crop in an area where tomatoes, potatoes or peppers were grown. They deplete the soil, pulling out all the nutrients and trace elements from it.

Step-by-step planting instructions

In the spring

"Prepare the sleigh in the summer, and the cart in the winter." When planting remontant raspberries in spring, the soil must be prepared in the fall. The site is cleared of weeds, the earth is dug up. At the same time, the soil should be fertilized. For each square meter of the plot, it is necessary to add about 2 buckets of humus, a glass of superphosphate and potassium sulphide (instead of them, you can take 200-300 g of complex mineral dressings), the soil is carefully dug up.

An important stage is the selection of a seedling. The plant must have a well-developed root system. The thickness of the stem at the base should be at least 5 mm, and the optimal shoot height should be no more than 20-25 cm. It is easy to check the viability of the seedling.

Before buying, lightly pry the bark of the young shoot. The stem should be greenish. The seedling buds should not be dry. If the root system is dry, then before planting, the seedling should be immersed in water with a growth stimulator for a day. This measure is guaranteed to increase the survival rate of remontant raspberries in the open field.

Next, the landing pits are prepared. Their depth should be about 40-50 cm. The distance between the holes in a row should be about 70 cm, and a distance of one and a half meters or more should be kept between the rows. Immediately before planting, the roots can be dipped in a solution of clay, black soil and mullein. In no case should mineral fertilizers be applied to the pit, so as not to burn the young sensitive raspberry roots.

After that, a seedling is installed, straightening the roots. The planting hole is filled with soil in such a way that the root collar is at the level of the surface of the site.

It should be noted that on sandy soils, the root collar can be at a depth of up to 4 cm. After compaction of the earth, watering is carried out. Pour about 5 liters of water under each bush. After being absorbed, the raspberries are mulched with sawdust, straw, bark or plant residues.

In autumn

As already mentioned, the best time to plant remontant raspberries is autumn.When planting in autumn, the soil is prepared in the spring - it is dug up, while fertilizing it. In the fall, raspberries are planted according to the same algorithm as in the spring.

Care

In the spring

Measures for the care of remontant raspberries begin immediately after wintering, from the first days of March, while the ground is still frozen. At this time, complex mineral fertilizers are introduced into the soil.

Sanitary pruning of shrubs is carried out in mid-April. Dried or damaged shoots are removed and healthy stems are pruned to the first healthy bud. If you suspect a fungal disease, the bushes are treated with a 1% solution of ferrous sulfate. If there are no signs of the disease, then prophylactic treatment is carried out in early May.

In the spring, remontant raspberries are fertilized with complex mineral fertilizers, adding growth stimulants to them. The end of May is marked by preventive pest control. Any biological insecticide is suitable for these purposes.

It is necessary to loosen the soil around the bushes, remove weeds and water every week. Repaired raspberries do not tolerate soil compaction. Loosening should begin in early spring. This procedure is carried out up to 4-6 times per season. The row spacing is loosened to a depth of 10-15 cm, and the ground around the bushes - by 5-8 cm.

Summer

Summer care involves regular watering and loosening of the soil. Water the bush weekly. Tall varieties of remontant raspberries must be tied up during this period. For these purposes, you can use the trellis method, or you can use the peg method.

In the first case, pillars are installed along the planting (approximately every 3 m) and a wire is pulled between them at different levels in two or three rows (at a height of 70, 120 and 180 cm), to which raspberry shoots are tied. If the plantings are single, then separate pegs are used for the garter, which are driven into the ground near each bush.

In the summer, the fruits of the remontant raspberry ripen. Treatment with pesticides from pests and diseases is prohibited - the berries will absorb toxic substances. Intense solar radiation is also harmful for berries. Therefore, during the period of active sun, it is advisable to cover the bushes with a special net.

In autumn

Repaired raspberries are known to bear fruit before the first frost. Autumn care consists in preparing the plant for the winter period. After harvesting, shoots that have borne fruit in the current season are pruned at ground level. In the first year after planting, stems with a height of 20-25 cm are left. Full pruning is carried out only by the second year.

Next, the raspberries are cleaned from plant residues and mulch. It is advisable to burn them, because they may contain pests or pathogens. After that, raspberries are watered for winter. In late autumn, the last loosening and digging of the soil is carried out, after which the soil is mulched with rotted manure or humus (layer thickness - 10 cm).

As a rule, remontant varieties are frost-resistant, and they do not need shelter for the winter. But if severe frosts are coming, then the raspberry tree should be covered with a layer of hay or straw. Uncut bushes must be tied up, bent to the ground and covered with dry foliage.

Care procedures

Watering

Repaired raspberries need regular watering. It is necessary to moisten the soil every week. During dry periods, raspberries are watered more often. The ground under the bushes should always be slightly damp.

Watering is especially important before flowering, during active foliage growth and during the ripening period of berries. The soil should be moistened to a depth of 25-35 cm. Before the winter period, the soil is saturated with moisture, making abundant watering.

The moisture level of the soil should be closely monitored. An excess of moisture affects remontant raspberries even more than a lack of it. Air does not flow to the roots through wet soil, the development of the plant slows down. Shrubs are not watered with cold water. First, it should be infused in the open air.If the raspberry tree is covered with mulch, then the amount of watering is significantly reduced.

Top dressing

Cultivation of remontant raspberries is not complete without top dressing. Due to the abundant fruiting, remontant varieties use a large amount of nutrients, which are spent on the growth of the shrub and the formation of the crop.

High-quality top dressing of the soil before planting should be enough for three years. From the third year, it is already necessary to apply fertilizers.

Raspberries respond well to organics. At the beginning of the growing season, mullein is introduced into the soil, mixed with water in a ratio of 1:10. Poultry droppings diluted 1:20 in water can be used instead. Organic fertilizers are applied 2-3 times per season. Per square meter of land, 3 to 5 liters of liquid mixture is required. Such dressings will saturate the soil with the necessary components for the development of raspberries.

The plant also needs mineral supplements. In particular, remontant raspberries need potash fertilizers. Without potassium, the leaves become smaller, the edges turn brown, the tissues around the veins die off. The plant also needs phosphorus. Without this element, the stems acquire a purple hue, become lethargic and may even die off.

The lack of potassium is replenished with potassium magnesium or potassium sulfate. It is important that there is no chlorine in potash fertilizers. You can fill the lack of phosphorus with superphosphate. For each square meter of soil, it is recommended to add 50-70 g of superphosphate, 20-40 g of potassium sulfate and about 30 g of urea. These substances can be replaced with one complete complex fertilizer (for example, Nitroammophos), which is applied in the spring (60-100 g per square meter).

Repaired raspberries are sensitive to nitrogen deficiency. Nitrogen-containing substances are introduced into the soil in early spring, because in the fall they can extend the growing season of the plant, preventing preparation for wintering. In the absence of mulch, it is advisable to scatter humus every two years under the bushes (5-6 kg per square meter).

Pruning

In the spring, they start sanitary pruning. The shrub is carefully examined. After hibernation, uncircumcised shoots may develop cracks or dry patches.

Such stems are pruned to the first healthy bud. The tops of viable shoots are not touched - pruning them can delay the ripening of fruits and harm the future harvest. These procedures are carried out exclusively during the period of swelling of the kidneys. During this period, it is easy to recognize healthy and damaged kidneys.

If the repair variety in your area gives a lot of root growth, then remove it without hesitation. Only 10-15 shoots are left per square meter, of which one half is replacement shoots, and the other is two-year-old fruiting stems.

At the end of the fruiting period, all shoots of remontant raspberries are cut at ground level (only 3 cm above the surface are left). These varieties are vigorous. Next year the raspberries will grow back, yielding the same harvest. This procedure will protect the plant from diseases and pests in the winter. There is also another approach.

Only the tops of the stems are cut off. This allows you to stretch the fruiting period in the next season, because the berries will ripen not only on annual, but also on two-year shoots.

Reproduction

Root offspring

Reproduction of remontant raspberries using root suckers is not always possible, because many varieties practically do not form root shoots. The method consists in digging out root processes and transplanting them to another place.

The largest amount of material for propagation is given by bushes at the age of 4-5 years. When the processes have reached a height of 7-10 cm, they are dug up and planted. They are shaded from the sun and watered regularly. After two weeks, the offspring take root, they no longer need protection from the sun. By the fall, they get good seedlings, which are planted in a permanent place.

Root cuttings

After the autumn harvest, they dig out the root of the plant, choose a root with a diameter of at least 2 cm and divide it into pieces 10-12 cm long.They are planted on a separate bed, the depth of the holes should be from 6 to 8 cm.In the spring they will sprout, which regularly watered, mulched and fed. And by autumn they will be ready for transplantation to a permanent place.

Green cuttings

Green cuttings are harvested in late spring. For these purposes, annual stems are suitable, which have separated from the mother bush with a small root. They are dug up, then cut off at a height of 4-5 cm (the shoot should have a leaf rosette) and planted in a greenhouse (in a mixture of river sand and peat).

The stalk is intensively watered, fed and protected from diseases, after successful rooting, the greenhouse is regularly ventilated. You can also dip the cuttings into a growth promoter solution. This will increase the survival rate. After successful rooting, they are transplanted to a permanent place.

Which remontant raspberry variety should you choose?

Today there are a large number of varieties of remontant raspberries. Because of this, the choice is somewhat difficult.

Here's a quick reference to help the gardener:

• early varieties: Hercules, Eurasia, Diamond;
• late varieties: Heritage, Zyugana, Erica;
• large-fruited varieties: Cap of Monomakh, Golden Autumn, Bryansk Divo;
• varieties with the best taste of berries: Apricot, Orange Miracle, Firebird;
• high-yield varieties: Atlant, Eurasia, Indian Summer.

And this is just a small list of varieties of remontant raspberries. Everyone can choose a variety for themselves, depending on individual preferences. When choosing raspberries, also pay attention to the timing of fruiting and the preferred growing region. Have a good harvest!