Astilba dwarf planting and outdoor care in the Urals

 

Astilba is a member of the saxifrage family. It got its name from the shape and quality of the foliage, covered with a special glossy shine. Astilba is an unpretentious, but very effective plant that has gained wide popularity among gardeners. Thanks to the original inflorescences and fairly decorative leaves, this perennial can become a real decoration of the garden plot. The plant grows in a bush from 20 to 200 cm in height (depending on VARIETIES OF ASTILBA). Has paniculate inflorescences from 8 to 60 cm, white, pink, red, purple and all shades intermediate between these colors. Blooms from June to September. After flowering, forms a seed capsule.

     

Planting astilba in open ground

 

Due to its unpretentiousness, astilbe can grow in almost any conditions, but in order to obtain a lush and long flowering, some rules for planting it in the garden should be observed.

 

Choosing a place for planting astilba
and soil requirements

 

Astilba prefers areas that are quite sunny, but not entirely open to the scorching rays. For planting, shaded areas are chosen, but not in dense shade. You should also not plant astilba near trees, which will have a depressing effect on the root system of the flower. Some varieties need high soil moisture, so it is recommended to plant them near water bodies or in places with a high groundwater table.

The plant looks great in combination with any other garden flowers, as well as stones on an alpine slide and reservoirs. It can be used to decorate shady areas of the garden in which other plants cannot be planted.Tulips and lilies of the valley will look great next to astilba, as well as decorative deciduous species: badan, hosta, mountain goat, etc. Low-growing varieties can be used as a living border in flower beds. In this case, the distance between the plants is reduced to 25-30 cm.

Astilba is not particularly demanding on the composition of the soil, but for its favorable development, the land must be loose with a sufficient amount of nutrients. Dig up the site, apply potassium-phosphorus fertilizers, compost, humus.

 

When and how to plant astilba

 

Planting time for this shrub is late March and early May. It is also possible to plant in autumn, before the onset of cold weather, so that the plant can take root. Seed specimens are placed in open ground in June.

For planting, a hole is prepared with a depth of 20-30 cm, depending on the height of the root. It is necessary to plant astilba in a hole in such a way that the root collar is at ground level, not covered with soil. It is necessary to leave a distance of at least 40-50 cm between the bushes.

After planting, the bush is watered and the surface must be mulched. The mulch layer should be at least 3 centimeters so that the roots are protected from overheating. Mulch will also help keep moisture in.

 

Astilba: outdoor care

 

The main condition for the successful cultivation of astilba is maintaining an optimal level of soil moisture. It is necessary to water the plant often, since drying out is detrimental to it. Watering is accompanied by top dressing. Fertilizer should be chosen with a high content of potassium and phosphorus. Nitrogen fertilizers can only be applied in early spring, before flowering.

To ensure that the root system has enough air, the soil is periodically loosened. After that, the surface is sprinkled with a mulching compound. In the first year after planting, weeds can be placed on a young plant, so it is necessary to destroy them in a timely manner. As it grows, the root system becomes powerful and has a depressing effect on the weeds, so there is no need to weed.

 

Astilba transplant
and the formation of a bush

 

Astilbe is grown in one place for no more than 5 years, then it is worth moving it and simultaneously deepening it by 4-5 cm. This must be done due to the fact that over time the roots move to the surface and can dry out. In this case, the leaves will begin to wither. Fade, and the flowers grow smaller. You can transplant the flower annually, as he tolerates the procedure easily. Specimens grown from seeds are transplanted no earlier than five years later. It is during this time that the seedling will turn into an adult plant with a full-fledged root system. It is not necessary to change the place of the astilba. You can dig it up, pour humus and mineral fertilizers into the soil and plant the bush again a little deeper.

As such, formative pruning is not required for the plant as it forms a beautiful shape on its own. At the same time, timely sanitary pruning of wilted peduncles and dried shoots is important.

 

Astilba: diseases and pests

 

Astilbe is quite resistant to diseases and pests, but still some problems arise when growing it. Often, with improper care, drying of the roots can occur and, as a result, wilting of foliage.

The most common pests are: ✿ Slobbering penny... When it appears, the leaves turn yellow and curl up.

✿ Gall nematode... It settles in the roots of the plant. The beginning of the defeat of astilba is manifested by a slowdown in flowering, with a large spread, the plant dies. Destroyed by Fitoverm.
✿ Strawberry nematode... Brown spots on the leaves indicate its appearance. The pest is destroyed by any insecticide.
✿ Cicadas... The leaf blade is sucked out, lightened spots appear on it. Destroyed by Karbofos, Aktara and other poisons.

Reproduction of astilba

 

Astilbe reproduces in three ways:

Dividing the bush

The fastest and most effective method, since it allows you to get several full-fledged copies at once in a short period.It is carried out during plant transplantation. The bush is dug up and divided into parts, leaving at least one bud on each. Each plant is planted in a separate hole. Division is carried out in the spring, as soon as the first shoots appear. The place of division is sprinkled with wood ash. A young plant can be divided into 5 years.

 

Budding (or grafting)

 

This method can be used if you have a bush that is at least two years old. A small part with one bud should be cut off from the root and planted in a greenhouse or pot. Such a specimen is planted in open ground next spring.

 

Growing from seeds

 

Only the seed method is suitable for obtaining new varieties. However, this method is quite complicated, since astilba seeds are small and also have poor germination. To increase germination, seeds are kept for 20 days at a temperature from minus 4 to plus 4. After that, they are placed in a warm place for 2-3 days.

For sowing, take flat containers and fill them with a mixture of sand and peat (1X3). Seeds are laid out on the surface, without dusting, and moistened with a spray bottle. The container is covered with foil and placed in a warm, bright place. The surface must not dry out, otherwise the seeds will die.

The first shoots will appear in 3-4 weeks. The pick is carried out in the phase of the first true leaf. During the procedure, the main root is pinched off by a third to stimulate the growth of new hairs. Each sprout is planted in a separate container. In open ground, seedlings can be moved in the second decade of June.

 

Preparing Astilba for winter

 

Proper care of the plant during the growing season depends on its well-being in winter. If everything is done according to the rules, the next year the shrub will delight the owner with a lush and bright flowering. In order to preserve the decorative effect of the bush after flowering, you should cut off all flower stalks, except for those from which you want to get seeds. The entire aboveground part of the plant is cut off for wintering, this procedure is performed in late autumn. Astilbe does not need special shelters, since it is quite frost-resistant. A small layer of straw, spruce branches or any plant debris from the flower bed will help protect it from freezing in the most severe winters.

 

WHERE TO BUY ASTILBA SEEDS

 

The Scientific and Production Association "Sady Rossii" has been introducing the latest achievements in the selection of vegetable, fruit, berry and ornamental crops into the wide practice of amateur gardening for 30 years. In the work of the association, the most modern technologies are used, a unique laboratory for microclonal reproduction of plants has been created. The main tasks of NPO Sady Rossii is to provide gardeners with high-quality planting material for popular varieties and novelties of world selection. Delivery of planting material (seeds, onions, seedlings) is carried out by Russian post.

We are waiting for you for shopping: NPO "Sady Rossii"

Not all shade-loving plants have a luxurious bloom, like a bright spot against a background of dark green foliage. Astilba differs from its herbaceous shade-tolerant relatives by its lush panicle-shaped inflorescence. The dullness of the leaves gives the plant a special look, allowing the bright colors to show off.

About the meaning of the name of astilba and a little history

Astilba got its name for nondescript matte leaves: "A" - without, negation; "Stilba" - shine, it turns out "without shine". Scottish botanist Lord Hamilton was the first to include the plant in the herbaceous classification, which now has about 40 species, including perennial and annual varieties.

In nature, it is found along the banks of water bodies, more often it grows in deciduous forests, but can grow on the shady slopes of highlands. The homeland is considered to be East Asia, North America, the Japanese islands, where astilbe was first discovered. Wet places made the green color dull, inconspicuous, but the inflorescences conquer gardeners.

European gardens got acquainted with the plant thanks to travelers who were looking for interesting, unusual things in different countries. Karl Thunberg and von Siebold brought the flower from Japan along with other exclusive goods. The end of the 18th and the beginning of the 19th century is marked by the development of park culture in Russia, recreation and outdoor walks are becoming popular among the population. Having found its application in decorating shady gardens, pond banks, small artificial reservoirs, astilba has become popular among landscape designers and florists.

Description of astilba

How to grow astilbe in the Astilbe ‘Bressingham Beauty’ (x arendsii) photo

Astilba belongs to herbaceous perennials, the upper part of which dies off for the winter, and the rhizome remains in the ground. Roots exposed during the summer period need to be covered with an additional layer of soil, and the harsh climatic conditions require additional cover with special industrial material or foliage.

Plant height ranges from 8 cm to 2 m, you can choose a representative for any flower bed or architectural structure. Miniature dwarf species barely reach 30 cm, their flexible stem forms an arc shape, for which they called the flower "drooping". There are known varieties with drooping inflorescences Tenberg, Lemoine. Despite the variety of colors, the choice remains on bright, saturated ones, which will look impressive on the shady side of the garden.

The leaf plate is not uniform, depending on the variety and place of growth. The hue can vary from dark green in summer to brownish red in autumn. The leaf is planted on a long petiole, some varieties have a pinnate shape, others have a jagged edge. Most species are represented by a complex leaf structure, consisting of several pointed cordate leaves.

The underground part of the plant is distinguished by its heterogeneity: there are species with a loose soft root, and some are strong treelike. Many processes depart from the central rhizome, the lower ones die off, and new ones form on top. The plant increases the root system upwards by 3-5 cm, so the roots are exposed in autumn.

Astilbe is especially valuable for rich purple, red, lilac, pink, white inflorescences in the form of a panicle or pyramid. They can be erect, resembling a fiery torch, or drooping, bowed to the ground in an arc. After flowering, they form a fruit - a box with seeds. The flowering time depends on the variety: early (June), medium (July), late (August-September).

Advice! To form a continuously flowering flower bed, it is better to use varieties with different degrees of flowering. Remove faded brushes, preserving the aesthetic appearance of the composition.

Planting astilba in open ground

How to plant astilba in the ground photo

You can settle astilba on a flower bed in two ways: by dividing rhizomes or seedlings. Plants grown from seeds will bloom a little later, but a divided bush will delight you with flowers right away, and there will be less hassle.

Ready planting material is planted throughout May and early June. It is better to choose the north side behind the house, shady places in the garden. Some varieties quite tolerate sunny flower beds, even bloom more abundantly, albeit not so long. The presence of an artificial reservoir, a fountain, a pool near the astilba will be a huge plus. The plant loves high groundwater levels and slightly acidified soil (pH 5.5-6.5).

Hostas are excellent companions for astilbe: this ground cover covers the entire surface with leaves, which retains moisture in the ground and creates a cool microclimate for the roots.

To plant astilba in the spring, dig up the area thoroughly, select the roots of perennial weeds, and let the earth settle. It is good if you add organic fertilizers (humus, compost) at the rate of a couple of buckets per square meter. All this is thoroughly mixed with a shovel with the garden soil and broken with a rake.

How to plant astilba:

• Wells are prepared, 25-30 cm deep, about the same diameter.
• The distance between the holes is at least 30 cm.
• Add half a glass of wood ash and a nitroamofoska matchbox to the bottom of the hole. Such dressing will provide the plant with all the necessary substances, just sprinkle a little earth on top so that the roots do not get to the "surprise" immediately after transplanting, since mineral dressing can burn damaged roots and the plant will hurt for a long time.
• Astilba is planted so that the root collar is deepened by 5 cm.
• The roots need to be straightened when planting, well covered with earth.
• After it is watered abundantly, the hole is mulched with a layer of humus.

It should be remembered that astilba loves moisture, therefore, the earth is not allowed to dry out in the future.

How to care for astilba after planting

The flower has the ability to "climb to the surface" by the roots: gradually the lower roots die off, and the upper part forms an increasingly powerful upper part, which should be spud.

A prerequisite for the full development of the plant is regular watering, and during periods of hot dry weather - twice a day - in the morning and in the evening, when the sun does not bake so well.

It is also important to mulch the root space. Such a “litter” of leaves, straw, cut grass or even fallen needles will do a great job: it will retain moisture longer, create excellent conditions for the development of beneficial microfauna in the ground and protect it from weeds. There will be no need for frequent weeding and loosening, which will reduce the time spent on caring for astilba.

When to transplant astilba Reproduction of astilba by dividing the bush

How to divide the astilba bush photo

When can astilba be transplanted? If you see that the roots are already just on the surface and hilling does not help, it's time to transplant the bush. Usually, after 4-5 years, the bush is aging and needs to be updated.

• It is best to replant and divide astilba in early autumn or late August. Then the flowering of the new bush will be next year.
• The rhizome of the main bush is divided so that there is a growth bud on each process.
• It is difficult to separate the woody root, so young 2-3 year old shoots are selected.

The planting pattern is 30 by 40 cm, so enough space is left for the lush growth of the green mass. The hole should be 25-30 cm deep, it is important not to forget about the deepening of the root collar by 4-5 cm. The soil is pre-fertilized with compost and mineral concentrates. Later, feeding is done once a year: in spring or autumn.

Watering is necessary regular, but moderate: the flower does not like stagnant water, the root and stems begin to rot. A typical procedure for a plant is hilling and adding soil to the flower bed. This is due to the peculiarity of root growth - upwards with the death of the lower part. For good air permeability, the earth is mulched with peat, sawdust, dry grass, and pine needles. The main care is loosening, eliminating weeds, watering, hilling, feeding if necessary (especially for 3-5 years of growth in one place).

How and what to feed astilba:

• in the spring - nitrogen fertilizers are applied (ammonium nitrate, urea, organic - fermented manure or chicken droppings), applied during hilling;
• in summer when flowering - potash, concentrate is suitable for flowering plants;
• in the fall after flowering - phosphoric, 20 g of superphosphate under a bush

Before use, be sure to read the instructions, the compositions of different manufacturers have their own concentration of the substance.

Preparing Astilba for winter

Before winter, the upper part of the bush is cut flush with the ground and mulching is done with organic residues (leaves, etc.). This method of wintering will protect the plant from freezing and rejuvenate old bushes.

After harvesting the mulch in the spring, it will be easier for the sprouts to break through to the sun, and growth will increase. In the middle lane, astilbe can easily overwinter without shelter, the main thing is that the roots are not exposed. After all, they have young buds, from which the development of the bush will go in the new season.To avoid freezing, be sure to spud the bare rhizomes and mulch the earth with humus with a layer of 3-4 cm.

In Siberia and the Urals, astilbe needs to be covered much better. They make a good slide of earth above the bush, cover it with hay or straw with a layer of 20-30 cm, and on top of it a wooden box, which is pressed with heavy stones or bricks. In the spring, the box is removed, leaving the mulch and soil until the frost recedes, and only then the organic matter and excess soil are removed so that the plant grows quickly.

Growing astilba from seeds

Planting astilba seeds Photo seedlings

Sowing of astilba for seedlings is carried out in March, the seeds are placed in prepared nutrient soil (suitable for universal or for flowering plants). Stratification can be carried out, which will strengthen the biomaterial, the plant will be ready for temperature changes.

On a soil of sand and peat in a 1: 1 ratio, 1 cm of snow is placed, which, when melted, will immerse the seeds in the ground, strengthening them. For hardening, the container with non-germinated seeds is placed in the refrigerator for 15-20 days, thereby preparing the future plant for low winter temperatures. After the container is placed in a warm, well-lit place.

Germination and growth of seeds will be better at a temperature of 18-20 ºС. Water the seedlings carefully, without stagnant water, without damaging the weak shoots. When sowing in a common box, a pick is required, therefore, after the formation of 2-3 true leaves, the plants are seated in spacious boxes or individual containers for seedlings, a distance of at least 6-7 cm.

The soil where the seedlings will be planted should be loamy, preferably next to groundwater or an artificial reservoir. Some species can adapt to the sunny side, shortening the flowering period, but the northern shady side is preferable for the flower. Hosta is considered an ideal neighbor, its leaves cover the ground, carefully protecting from the hot afternoon.

Important! Planting is best done in May, when the risks of frost have passed. Pre-adapt the bushes to the outdoor night temperature, taking the seedlings out into the open air.

Propagation of astilbe by cuttings

How to propagate astilbe by cuttings photo

Astilba cuttings are carried out in the summer, cutting out cuttings with a piece of rhizome. You can treat cuttings with root or heteroauxin (according to the instructions) to accelerate root formation.

• Cuttings are planted in separate containers with a loose nutrient substrate and watered abundantly.
• You can put the cuttings cups in a closed aquarium or cover with bags to create a greenhouse. This will speed up root formation, but remember to ventilate every day.
• It is also important to provide drainage so that the water does not stagnate. Punch holes in the bottom of the container if there were none.
• After a month, signs of plant growth will appear, the bags can be removed. It is better to plant in a permanent place at the end of August so that the plants have time to take root well.

Before wintering, astilba from cuttings should be fed with potassium nitrate to increase winter hardiness, as well as to spud and cover the plants with mulch.

Diseases and pests of astilba

Astilba boxwood and hydrangea photo in the garden

Failure to comply with the conditions for watering and feeding makes the plant vulnerable to pathogenic microorganisms and pests. Some can be eliminated with the help of pesticide treatment (slobbering penny), others (nematodes) require a radical solution - a transplant with disinfection of the root system and soil.

The stump is visible on the axils of the leaves, similar to saliva, but much denser in consistency. The cicada larvae hide in the cocoon, the more such pennies, the worse the flower feels. They are removed by washing the leaves with soapy water, followed by treatment with actara, karbofos, confidor.

The strawberry nematode is easily recognized by the deformation of the leaves with the appearance of brown or dark red blotches.The growth of the affected plant slows down, flowers and green mass lose their aesthetic appearance.

Gall nematode parasitizes on the roots, it can be recognized by slow growth, poor development of the bush. If the roots were exposed, you can see the kidney-shaped growths that hide the larvae of nematodes. The infected bush is subject to elimination, and the space is disinfected with a solution of potassium permanganate. Weeds can become the cause of damage, so it is important to regularly weed the flower bed, to loosen the earth for free air exchange.

Phytoverm and a weak solution of potassium permanganate will help to remove the strawberry and root nematode. The extensively infested area of ​​the flower bed will require a complete soil replacement with preliminary sanitization.

Useful properties of astilba

Florists and landscape designers are not the only ones who have found use of the herbaceous flowering plant. The indigenous people of Japan use the flower as a healing extract against inflammation and irritation. To do this, prepare a decoction of leaves and flowers, insist, and then lubricate the affected areas, add to baths, drink like a drink.

Eastern peoples use dried flowers as a seasoning for meat and vegetable dishes. For this, not only flower-bearing panicles are collected, but also ripe fruit-boxes. The pleasant aroma and sweetish taste of the flower is transmitted to the meat through sauce or juice.

Astilba in landscape design Photo compositions

Hosta and astilba in landscape design photo of flowers in a flower bed

It is not at all difficult to create a unique composition with astilbe, especially if you use the classic combination with hosts: you can plant ordinary green hosts or variegated ones, with white edges along the leaves, which will add a little exoticism. Ferns and lilies will look beautiful next to them.

Astilbes and hosts in landscape design photo mixborder

Rustic flowers like a matron's evening dress will look good next to it. By the way, the night violet will add charm not only to its appearance: its aroma will fill the site, which will appeal to you especially if there is a shop next to it.

Astilba photo of flowers in a flowerbed combination with hosts and irises

A very beautiful combination with astilba will be not only the host planting, you can place irises, flowering barberry, creeping juniper, ornamental deciduous shrubs nearby. The composition will turn out to be very natural, the gaze will simply rest.

Astilbe in the garden design photo cultivar Astilbe japonica ‘Peach Blossom’ combination with vesicle

Gently pink astilbe looks luxurious against the background of a purple bubble or elderberry. As they say, I don't want to take away or add anything.

Astilba Japanese, hybrid and lensa in the general planting of a photo of a flower bed

A beautiful combination of various varieties of astilba with different shades of flowering, and you can plant euphorbia as background plants.

Astilba in garden design Astilbe Japonica ‘Europa’ group photo of mixborder

An original combination will be a landing together with Astilbes and hosts of Aruncus, or Volzhanka. The result is a delicate composition with different types of paniculate inflorescences. Just airy mood!

Types and varieties of astilba with photos and names

Thanks to the many years of work of breeders, several hundred hybrid varieties of astilba have been bred. There are varietal groups specially designed for warm or cold climates. Some species get along well with spreading plants, others need space. Before choosing seeds, you need to focus on the weather conditions of the climatic zone, neighboring flower beds, the degree of watering.

No more than 12 species are popular; Arends, Chinese, Japanese, simple-leaved are suitable for growing in the garden. They do not require special conditions and are unpretentious in care.

Astilbe Arendsii

Astilba Arends Astilbe arendsii Europa photo of flowers in the garden

Created by crossing David's Astilba with others, it has about 40 varieties with a long flowering period.Its inflorescences appear in early July, and closes the flowering season at the end of August. In autumn, it perfectly sets off other flowering plants with dark green foliage. The bushes are powerful, reaching 1 m, with diamond-shaped or paniculate inflorescences. Famous varieties: Amethyst, Weiss Gloria, Rubin (up to 80 cm), Diamant (up to 1 m).

Chinese Astilbe Astilbe chinensis

Astilba Chinese variety Astilbe chinensis ‘Vision in Pink’ photo of flowers in the garden

It is a herbaceous bush of more than 1 m with a heterogeneous green mass. The lower leaves are wide on long petioles, after flowering they have a neat appearance, filling the flowerbed with a dark green lush mass. From above to the inflorescence, the leaves are short with a shiny texture. The stem ends with a 30-35 cm panicle of small, brightly colored flowers. It is represented by varieties not only of standard height (Purpulance, Pink, Red), but also undersized varieties (Pumila hort, up to 15 cm).

Astilba Japanese hybrid Astilbe japonica hybrids

Japanese Astilbe ‘Montgomery’ (japonica hybrid) photo in the garden

A compact plant, the ornamental value of which is the green mass of green, shiny leaves. Inflorescence panicles begin to bloom by mid-June, which is several weeks earlier than other species. Excellent cold resistance made the species popular in the territory of a risky climate with a variable temperature regime. Terry astilba Montgomery is famous among flower growers, its inflorescences can be bright burgundy or red. There are varieties of white - Deutschland, pink - Reyland, pale lilac - Europe.

Simple-leaved hybrid astilbe Astilbe simplicifolia

Astilbe leafy Astilbe Simplicifolia ‘Hennie Graafland’ photo of flowers in the garden

It is not at all suitable for dry and hot climates, therefore, in the steppe zone, where the scorching sun is, there will be no place for the plant. The visiting card of the species is the drooping varieties of Thunberg, Prikoks Alba, their inflorescences create a floating cobweb in a flower bed. Low growth, 25-50 cm, openwork panicles of inflorescences make the plant popular in border flower beds. Most often used as an accent on corners or central areas. This species can grow on the sunny side, but the tone of the leaves will be lighter and the flowers are not so saturated.

Dwarf varieties can be grown in pots, they perfectly tolerate the home climate. Some blooming arrangements are perfect as a gift. It feels better outdoors, so it is advisable to take out flowerpots with room astilba in the summer to the balcony or terrace of a private house.

I love astilba! Such a variety of species, colors and varieties of inflorescences can rarely be found in perennials. It can grow in one place for a long time. Attractive inflorescences remain on its bushes for a long time. The unpretentiousness of the plant allows even the most novice florist to grow it. Astilba is appropriate both in the dacha flower bed and in the front flower garden. For those who did not grow it on their site, we will tell you more about it - how the plant looks like, what species and varieties exist, how to choose and plant, how to care.

Description of the flower

Astilbe (Astilbe) is a herbaceous perennial belonging to the genus saxifrage. There are up to 40 species in the world. This name was given to the plant by the Scottish botanist Hamilton - "A" means without, "stilbe" - shine - leaves without shine, matte, dull. Astilbe is considered the homeland of East Asia, North America, Japan. There the perennial grows in moist deciduous forests, along the streams. The Europeans were introduced to this plant by Karl-Thunberg and von Siebold. These hunters for unusual plants brought astilba home in the 18th and early 19th centuries. From that time on, she became a favorite of shady gardens.

Astilba is a rhizome, herbaceous perennial. The herbaceous part that has grown over the summer dies off in the fall. Erect shoots can grow from 8 cm to 2 m - depending on the species and variety. Serrated simple or feathery leaves sit on long petioles.The color of the leaf plate is from reddish green to dark green. The woody rhizome can be loose or dense, depending on the species. On the upper part, new shoots grow in spring, and the lower part dies off. Under a layer of snow, the plant tolerates frosts down to -37 ° C.

Small white, pink, lilac, purple or red flowers bloom on openwork apical panicles of various sizes. The peak of flowering occurs in mid-summer and lasts about a month. Small seeds ripen in a seed box - 1 g contains up to 20,000 seeds.

Astilba flowers, depending on the species, are collected in inflorescences of various shapes. They can be paniculate, rhombic, pyramidal, or drooping.

Astilba with paniculate inflorescences. Its numerous ramifications with many ramifications depart from the main axis at an acute angle and shorten towards the apex.

Astilba with pyramidal inflorescences - lateral branches extend from the main axis almost at right angles and evenly shorten from the base to the top, the inflorescence contour looks like a regular pyramid.

Astilba with rhombic inflorescences. Departing from the main stem at an acute angle form a rhombus. Such inflorescences are characteristic of Japanese astilba.

Astilba with drooping inflorescences in the form of arcs, gracefully hanging from the main axis. Such inflorescences are more common in Astilba Thunberg and Lemoine.

The decorativeness of the variety depends on the density of the arrangement and the size of the flowers. Inflorescences with several shades, such as "Peach and Cream", "Montgomery", "White Wings", look especially original.

Varieties with photos

Today, no more than 12 types of astilbe are used in garden design, from which many hybrids have been derived. The most famous of them are Arendsii Hybrida, Japanese hybrids (Japonica Hybrida), Chinese Astilbe Chinensis, and Astilbe simplicifolia.

Astilba arensa

Astilba arensa

There are about 40 varieties bred by crossing David's Astilba with other species. Most of them are tall (up to 1m) plants, spreading pyramidal or spherical. White, pink, red or lilac flowers bloom above the dark green leaves. Flowering lasts more than a month from July to mid-August.

Japanese astilba

Montgomery variety

It usually does not grow taller than 80 cm. Compact bushes have shiny leaves, panicle inflorescences of pink or white color. This variety of astilbe begins to bloom earlier than anyone else, dried flowers retain their attractiveness until the end of the season. New varieties are unpretentious to growing conditions, resistant to low temperatures.

Cultivated varieties: Deutschland - white panicles, pink Rhineland, soft lilac and elegant Europe, Montgomery with bright red or burgundy fluffy panicles.

Chinese astilba

Vision in pink

It is a herbaceous shrub about a meter high. Leaves of different sizes - growing from the base of the bush, large, on long petioles, growing on the stem - smaller, with short petioles. Dense inflorescences can grow up to 30-35 cm, most often lilac, less often white or pink. They can grow in sunny flower beds. The most famous varieties: "Purpurlanze" of an unusual lilac color, pink "Vision in Pink", "Vision in Red" dark purple.

Astilba ed

Astilba ed

Astilba gloria

Astilba gloria

Astilba white

Astilba white

Astilba amethyst

Astilba amethyst

Astilba common

Astilba common

Plants of this species and varieties derived from them are very sensitive to high temperatures and low air humidity. The drooping inflorescences of these low plants (up to 50 cm) give the plantings a special airiness. Bred varieties with white candles of inflorescences - Praecox Alba, pink - Bronze Elegans, coral Ostrich feather.

Astilba unique

Younique silvery pink

In the 2000s. a new group of varieties, Younique, was created. This group includes varieties with snow-white, purple Younique Lilac, pink Younique Silvery Pink and almost red graceful Younique Carmine inflorescences. The inflorescences of these varieties are both delicate and lush, without a long peduncle, growing from the mass of leaves.

When to plant astilba?

In order to admire the flowering of astilba every year, it must be transplanted in a timely manner and planted on time.

The most suitable period for this event was recognized as the end of summer (August) - beginning of autumn.

The flowering of the plant has already ended, and the cold weather is still far away - the plant will have time to take root and prepare for wintering.

The experience of many gardeners recommends planting and dividing astilbe bushes after 4 years. A feature of astilbe can be considered their gradual protrusion from the soil - the rhizomes grow upward, dying off from below. After a while, the roots become bare. This phenomenon can be eliminated by annually adding soil or compost to the bare rhizome. This procedure allows you not to transplant the plant, but only to divide and plant.

The choice of planting material (how to save after purchase before planting)

Many growers purchase Astilba seedlings via the Internet or at garden centers. Plants in such trading companies are packed in bags, which in most cases are stored in a dark place. The rhizomes germinate, but the resulting shoots stretch out from lack of light, turn out a pale green color and bend. Planted in open ground, such seedlings are sick for a long time and do not take root well.

Advice. It is worth purchasing planting material as early as possible, as soon as the seedlings are on sale. Store in the refrigerator until planting, periodically checking its condition.

Storing the seedlings in a cool place will keep the buds from germinating.
From the whole set of bags with rhizomes, it is worth choosing those in which it is clear that the seedlings are alive, the shoots are small, fresh and green. Saplings with long, pale and thin shoots will also take root if the rhizome is not dry and rotten. In the first year of life in a flower bed, such a plant will adapt to new conditions for a long time, will give a weak growth and will not bloom.

The largest selection of astilba planting material in chain stores can be observed at a time when it is still far from planting plants in the ground - in February - March. How to preserve the acquired rhizomes until the time when they can be planted in open ground?

Astilbe can easily transfer home content before planting in a flower garden. One storage option is a household refrigerator or basement. We need a positive temperature close to zero. Plastic containers with ventilation holes are filled with a damp substrate such as sawdust, coconut fiber, light earth or moss. Rhizomes are laid on the surface and slightly covered with the same substrate. In this state, the astilbe will survive until spring without loss.

Rhizomes, which buds have awakened and sprouts have appeared, can be planted in a flower pot and placed on the windowsill. Water as needed, avoiding waterlogging. It is necessary to plant seedlings with regrown leaves in a flower garden after the end of the frost. At first, such plants need to be protected from excessive sun.

Landing

Planting any plant begins with choosing a place. For astilba, light shading, partial shade is needed. In an open sunny meadow, Astilba will feel uncomfortable. The flowering of perennials in such places is more abundant, but ends faster and the shoots have a paler color.

The choice of the planting site is also influenced by the flowering period of the seedling. Early and late flowering varieties bloom equally in sun and shade. Shaded areas are more suitable for mid-flowering varieties, where the astilba will be protected from the hot midday sun.

Loamy soil, pH 5.5-6.5, and the surrounding air should be moist. The perennial will be especially grateful for the close location of groundwater. Only astilba Chinese can tolerate a slight drying out of the soil. For other species, the dried soil of death is similar. A perennial will feel very good on the shore of a decorative reservoir.

The best spring planting date is May-June.

Preparing the site for planting, they dig it up, remove the roots of perennial weeds, add 2 buckets of organic matter per 1 m2

Preparing the landing hole. Its size should be such that the seedling rhizomes can freely settle in it. The bottom of the hole is loosened, we pour organic matter, you can spill it with liquid Biohumus or any other fertilizer diluted according to the instructions. In areas where a lack of moisture is possible in summer when planting, hydrogel granules can be added to the soil.

We put the rhizome on the prepared soil. The planting depth should be such that there is 4-5 cm of soil above the base of the sprouts. It is necessary to sprinkle the seedling with a substrate, taking into account the fact that the watered soil will settle and the roots may appear on the surface. The hole around the seedling will not allow water to spread over the surface, but will direct it to the roots.

Mulch in the planting hole will retain moisture and make it easier for the plant to adapt to its new location. Spreading a protective layer of 3-4 cm around the sprouts leave a place free of mulch. As such a layer, you can use humus, sawdust, needles or crushed bark.

In dry weather, astilba will need to be watered every other day before the young leaves appear.
When planting perennials in groups between neighboring plants, leave from 40 to 50 cm of free space.

Landing astilba: video

Care

Planted on fertilized soil, astilba grows in one place for up to seven years. With careful care and timely feeding and watering, this period can increase to twenty.

In the spring, after the snow melts, the plantings are fertilized. Liquid fertilizers quickly enter the root layer. You can mulch seedlings with organic material. During the entire growing season, it is necessary to maintain soil moisture at the proper level.

When the flowering of astilba is over and the peduncles are dry, it is better to leave them on the plant - even in a dried form, they look impressive. When preparing plantings for winter, the aerial part of the perennial is cut off at ground level and the plantings are covered with them. For additional protection of the bush from frost, you can use coniferous spruce branches or tops of vegetable plants.

From the moment of emergence in spring until mid-summer, it is very important to remove weeds in the plantings. Towards the end of summer, astilba rhizomes grow so much that they can strangle the weeds on their own.

Diseases and pests

Astilba, as an alien from another climatic zone, did not create a large number of enemies among insects and microorganisms in our latitudes. The greatest harm to this perennial is caused by the slobbery penny and two types of nematodes - gallic and strawberry.

The stump in the axils of the leaves creates foam-like nests for its larvae. Under the influence of the pest, astilba withers. Any insecticidal preparation can destroy the pest.

Plants damaged by strawberry nematodes become covered with necrotic spots, their buds, leaves and flowers are deformed.

Gall nematode parasitizes on the roots, where gall outgrowths are formed, inside of which the nematodes live. You can notice the parasite on the roots only in the second year of life. Plants with nematodes on the roots lag behind in development, bloom poorly and may die. Perennials infected with nematodes must be removed from the flower garden in a timely manner.

Preparing Astilba for winter

It is necessary to prepare a newly planted astilba bush for wintering in advance - in the summer. In plants of the first year of life in a new place, the peduncle is removed as soon as it is isolated. Throughout the season, soil is weeded around the bush and weeds are removed. When loosening the crust on the soil surface, you need to do it carefully, trying to keep the young roots intact.

After the first autumn frost, the blackened leaves are cut off at ground level and placed on the growing bushes.Then, an earthen mound about 4 cm high is created above the bush, and then cover the place where the astilba grows with dry leaves or peat. Crushed bark or humus is also suitable.

On the bushes of the second and subsequent years of life, flower stalks are left, and for the winter they are insulated with peat or fallen leaves in the same way. Every year, the rhizomes of astilba rise higher and higher and soon begin to bulge out of the ground, becoming defenseless against the winter cold. Astilbe, frozen in winter, become less decorative.

Four-five-year-old astilbe plants are fully covered before the onset of frost. To begin with, cut off the foliage and flower stalks. At the next stage, a frame is built in which insulation can be laid - dry leaves or tops. You can fix the leaves in the frame with nonwoven spunbond or lutrasil. You need to protect the planting from getting wet with plastic wrap pressed along the edges.

A strong, healthy plant will more easily endure winter colds and return frosts.

It is possible to increase the immunity of astilba with the autumn application of potash and phosphorus fertilizers. Under each bush, 50 g of a mixture of fertilizers are scattered in a 1: 1 ratio. Good results are obtained by using well-rotted organic matter - manure or compost. Slowly decaying organic matter warms the bush in winter and provides food in an accessible form in summer.

Blackberry mushroom - photo and description of how to cook

Reproduction

There are several ways of reproduction of astilba: seeds, renewal buds and division of the bush. Most often they are propagated vegetatively - by dividing the bush, but when propagated by seeds, you can get new varieties, start breeding.

Seed reproduction

Astilba seeds are so small that they can only be seen through a magnifying glass. To collect 1 g of seeds, you need to collect 20,000 pieces. Ripe seeds are quickly poured out of the seed pods. To collect seeds, the inflorescences are cut in September and put on paper in a warm, dry place, and kept from two weeks to a month. The spilled seeds are collected and stored in a paper bag.

With seed reproduction, sowing begins in March. The container is chosen wide, about 15 cm deep. A mixture of peat and sand in a 1: 1 ratio is used as a soil. Snow is poured onto the soil, in a layer of 1 cm. You can replace natural snow with artificial one - from the freezer. You can evenly distribute the seeds over the surface of the snow by mixing them with liquid. Seeds are poured into a growth stimulant solution and sown with a pipette over the surface of the snow. On a white background, the seeds are especially visible and can be distributed more evenly. The melted snow will moisten the soil and tighten the seeds to the desired depth.

After waiting for the snow to melt, a container with seeds in a transparent bag, or even better wrapped in plastic wrap, is placed in the refrigerator for three weeks. During this time, seedlings appear in the container. The greened container is transferred to a warm, bright place. Especially carefully you need to water the sprouts - you can pour it with a spray bottle and a fine spray of water or a syringe without a needle. Seedlings with 2-3 true leaves are cut into separate pots, and subsequently planted in the ground.

Sowing astilba seeds: video

Renal reproduction renewal

• With the beginning of the growth of shoots or buds of renewal, they are cut off with a piece of rhizome.
• Wounds are disinfected with crushed charcoal or cinnamon powder.
• Sections with buds are planted in a mixture of gravel and peat, in a ratio of 1: 3 and covered with polyethylene (film or a cut bottle).
• In the fall of the current year or in the spring of the next, the seedlings are transplanted to a permanent place.

Reproduction by dividing the bush

The easiest and most reliable way to propagate astilba vegetatively is by dividing the bush. The best results are given by bushes at the age of 3-4 years. The rhizome of a perennial dug out of the ground is divided into parts with a pruner or a shovel. At least two buds should remain on each division. The lower parts of the rhizome are removed.The resulting parts of the plant are planted in new places or wrapped in a damp cloth and kept in a plastic bag, preventing the roots from drying out.

It is better to divide and plant astilba in early spring, before flowering. It is necessary to reproduce a perennial in autumn in such a way that the plant has enough time for rooting before the onset of frost, i.e. in August and early September. Plants tolerate the division procedure well, quickly take root in a new place and bloom the next year.

Astilba: growing, care, reproduction: video

Hosta - planting and care in the open field

Astilba in landscape design

Landscape designers value astilba for its long-lasting decorative effect, resistance to high groundwater levels, and the ability to grow in the shade of tall plants. The delicate leaves that sit on reddish cuttings attract attention throughout the garden season.

Young purple leaves look attractive in the flower garden, which gradually turn green and acquire an unusual shape. An additional bonus to the carved leaves is a long, more than a month, flowering. Various shapes and shades of inflorescences adorn the flower garden from mid-summer to autumn.

Astilba in the creation of flower arrangements can be used both individually and in group plantings, combining the colors and sizes of different varieties.

Planting in groups

Astilba is a versatile person, it will be desirable in any landscape design. Low-growing bushes can be used in the foreground of the composition, medium-sized ones will decorate the middle and background of the plantings. Tall ones will decorate what you want to hide, disguise outbuildings or an unsightly fence. Low-growing varieties will be appropriate on an alpine slide or rocky talus. They can also frame garden paths.

Clarkia graceful - growing from seed

Planting in flower beds

Low-growing varieties of astilba can be used as a border for flower beds and lawns. An astilba bush in a flower pot will decorate an open veranda or garden gazebo.
This perennial looks spectacular against the background of conifers, such as thuja or junipers. A successful combination of astilbe with hosts and ferns.

Carved perennial leaves will look even more delicate in joint plantings with hellebore, berry, podophyllum, rogers or cuffs. A very interesting combination of astilba with daylilies, aquilegia, lilies, geraniums, phlox or ferns. Planted together with the hosta, astilba emphasizes the beauty of its leaves, and the leaves retain the moisture of the soil for astilba.

The joint planting of astilbe and ground cover plants (saxifrage, tenacious, lamb) achieves two goals - in early spring, when the astilbe is not yet visible, the ground cover creates an attractive spot, then the grown up and color-matched astilbe attracts attention. In the hot season, the ground cover protects the place where the astilbe grows from overheating.

In the spring garden, astilbe planting is combined with primroses, crocuses, lilies of the valley, rhododendrons, tulips.

Planted in the company of tall flowers, astilba camouflages the bare stems of its neighbors. It belongs to the rare ornamental plants that grow and bloom beautifully in conditions of lack of sun and excess moisture. If necessary, you can plant astilbe under trees, but you need to do this, stepping back from the tree trunk at least 1.5 meters. With this planting, the roots of the tree will not be damaged and the astilbe will not be depressed.

Badan - planting and care in the open field

Forcing astilba

You can also enjoy the flowering of astilba in winter. For this, it is enough to distill.

Most willingly, at home, two - three-year-old bushes will bloom. Suitable bushes are dug out at the end of September and, divided into two or three parts, are planted in flower pots with a diameter of at least 13 cm. The substrate needs loose and nutritious - sod land, leafy soil, compost and sand (2: 2: 2: 1).The planted plant is watered and placed in a greenhouse. For the winter, the planted astilba is insulated.

The pot is brought into the heat at the end of December and left in a cool place at a temperature not higher than +12 degrees. Watering should be done in moderation. Shoots appear after about twenty days. The plant is transferred to a warmer room, where it is about +20, watering is increased. In a month - one and a half astilba can bloom. One bush can grow up to seven full-fledged inflorescences.

If the emerging shoots, which have grown to 8-9 cm, are sprayed with growth stimulants, then the beginning of flowering will accelerate. Gibbersib allows you to get flowers for 17-21 days, increase the number of inflorescences and the length of the pedicel. Astilba flowers become exquisitely graceful.
Subsequently, the bush can be transferred to the open air, or it can be grown indoors.

Planting and caring for astilba is not difficult. Grow this bright perennial and delight yourself with astilba flowers.

Astilba is an ornamental perennial plant that is often planted to decorate garden plots. The height of the plants depends on the variety. There are undersized varieties (about 20 cm) and tall ones, the length of which reaches 2 meters. Dissected leaflets, color from usual green to burgundy. Incredibly beautiful flowers of white, lilac, red, pink or purple tints collected in paniculate inflorescences.

The homeland of Astilbe is considered to be North America and Asia. Despite its thermophilic nature, in the northern regions, the plant has taken root well and from year to year, pleases its owners with beautiful and lush flowering. Thanks to selection, it became possible to grow astilba in Siberia, where summers are short and winters are cold and long.

In this video, you can learn more about the plant:

When to plant astilba in open ground

Astilba has a main distinguishing feature: after winter, the plant wakes up later than other perennials. Stable vegetation begins at a stable above-zero temperature (not lower than +10). For the Siberian regions, this is the end of May or the beginning of June. It is during these months that plants are planted in open ground.

Experienced gardeners practice autumn planting. Produced in late summer or autumn. The main thing is not to be late before the first frost. In a month, perennials should take root and adapt to a new place.

Where to plant astilba on the site

When choosing a place on the site, you need to know what the plant loves:

• Moderate soil moisture. Stagnation of water in the soil, threatens with decay of the roots. With high humidity, freezing is possible in winter.
• Prefers diffused sunlight. Grows well in the shade of a house or large trees.
• Responsive to fertile soil. It is desirable that the soil retains moisture well, but not heavy.
• It develops well at high soil moisture. It is useful to plant near a pond, river or pool. Near water, the humidity is always higher.

Planting astilba in the spring in open ground

Perennials are propagated by dividing the bush (vegetatively). In the spring, carefully dig in the bush with a spatula and separate part of the bush. When dividing, make sure that on each seedling there are enough roots and several promising growth points. To protect against diseases, the cuts on the root system are treated with crushed charcoal.

A less popular method is seed propagation. Used by gardeners to breed new varieties and hybrids. Having an adult bush on the site, it is easier and safer to use the vegetative method.

It is possible to plant plants in flower beds, along with other ornamental shrubs and flowers. When choosing a place, the peculiarity of the growth of a perennial is taken into account. In width, the bush reaches 30 cm or more.Therefore, a distance of 40 cm is left between the plants.

Pits up to 30 cm deep and wide are dug in the flowerbed.Fill 1/3 of the wells with the nutrient mixture, consisting of:

• Humus
• Bone meal
• Complex fertilizers for ornamental plants

After filling the hole with a nutrient mixture, pour abundant water over it. Carefully place the cut in a hole, cover it with a layer of earth so that the growth point is at a depth of no more than 3 cm. Moisten the soil around the plants and mulch with pieces of bark or chopped straw.

Outdoor care for astilba

The minimum care is about astilbe. In the open field, it is not difficult to care for a flower crop. What plants need:

• Continuous top-up of mulching material (chopped straw) or loosening of the soil to remove weeds.
• Regular fertilizing with fertilizers in which phosphorus and potassium prevail.
• Watering with water a couple of times a week. Increase the frequency of watering in hot, dry weather. In cloudy and cold, on the contrary, they reduce or completely stop watering the plants.

Although the perennial loves warmth, it tolerates the harsh winters in Siberia under a thick layer of snow. Additional protection against frost is a layer of mulch. Sprinkle mulching material around the plant in the fall.

To improve the appearance of the flower bed, autumn pruning helps. Before the onset of cold weather, fading inflorescences with peduncles are removed. Carefully cut off the aerial part with pruning shears, leaving petioles 10 cm long above the ground.