Weigela ruby ​​star planting and care in the open field

The weigela shrub has unusually decorative properties: undemanding in care, with beautiful, exotic flowers, it will be a wonderful decoration for any garden plot. The plant was named after the famous German botanist and chemist Christian von Weigel. The historical homeland of the flower is Asia, but since the 19th century, it has become one of the most popular deciduous perennials in European gardens. Today, in many countries of the world, you can find an Asian beauty belonging to the Honeysuckle family, represented by 15 species and many varieties. Three of its varieties are found on the Far Eastern hills of Russia.

Shrub care

In general, weigel can be said to be not a picky plant. But you need to know some of its features in order to get not just a beautiful and healthy, well-leafy bush, but also to achieve abundant flowering. The technology of growing weigela shrubs, planting and care consists of several simple techniques: proper watering, loosening the soil, feeding, pruning shoots, preparing for winter, reproduction. We also recommend reading an article about the most famous ITO peonies.

Watering and irrigation of weigela

Weigela loves good watering, but does not tolerate excessively moist, waterlogged soil. Water the shrub sparingly when a thin dry crust has formed on the soil surface. If you ignore the rule, you can damage the roots. They will rot, resulting in the loss of the plant.

So that moisture does not evaporate too quickly from the surface of the earth, after watering and loosening, the root part can be mulched. Sawdust or peat is taken as mulch. Some gardeners advise sprinkling the root part with the smallest pebbles. This should be done on May days, since at this time the soil is already warming up well. If sawdust is taken as a "powder", then they are covered quite thickly, with a layer of about 10 cm.

By the fall, the shoots begin to grow woody. To make this process faster, you need to reduce the frequency of watering. The lignified parts of the plant will more easily endure the winter cold.

Loosening the soil of the plant

After moistening the soil, immediately loosen the soil around the plant. This will make it possible to get rid of the bark formed after watering. Over time, it forms a kind of shell that does not allow air to penetrate to the roots, and also disrupts moisture exchange. It is necessary to plow the soil at a surface level, the depth of which does not exceed 5-7 cm. Deeper loosening will lead to damage to the roots. Carrying out such soil cultivation, you need to cover a fairly large part of the land around the bush - at least 2 meters in diameter.

Top dressing of weigela bushes

Three times during the season, top dressing is applied under the weigela bushes.

For the first time, it is fed on melted snow, which, having melted, will "deliver" the fertilizer directly to its destination - to the roots. When the snow shelters begin to leave the ground en masse, the strength of the plant is reinforced with the help of mineral dressings. During this period, it is important to support the plant after the cold weather. Used in this case is carbamide, superphosphate, potassium humate.

The time for the second feeding is right when buds are formed for flowering. During this period, the bushes most of all need potash and phosphorus fertilizers.

Weigela is fertilized for the third time in mid-July so that it gains strength before the second flowering. Potassium sulfate and superphosphate are suitable for this.

Sometimes the fourth "feeding" is carried out in the fall (at the end of September). During this period, the plant prepares for winter, its shoots are covered with a thin woody crust. Fertilizing the shrub in the autumn season, the gardener will help the plant to “dress” in the bark for the winter, which will protect it from snow and cold weather. In addition, during this period, there is a massive budding for the next year. Providing weigela in the fall with good watering and fertilizing, in the spring you can get beautiful, generously flowering bushes.

Varietal variety of weigela shrubs

Many varieties make it possible to choose the right plant for any, even the most demanding taste. Bushes can be dwarf, reaching a height of 50 cm, and tall, growing up to 2-3 m.

The main decoration of the shrub is flowers, which can be in the form of a pipe, funnel, bloom one at a time or gather in crumbly inflorescences. The variety of colors is also good news. Branches are completely or partially covered with beige, yellow, pink, red, lilac flowers. An interesting feature of the flowers is that as the buds unfold, they change from light and delicate shades to darker, saturated ones. When flowering stops, seed pods appear in place of the flowers.

Many varieties have long taken a confident position in gardens, and some are only gaining their fans. The most popular varieties with high decorative characteristics will be discussed in the article.

Rumba variety

Weigela Rumba bushes are medium in size. Their height and width are approximately the same and are 1-1.2 m. They are covered with elongated, oval leaves of a pale green color, with a cherry-golden tint. It belongs to the red weigela variety, which is numbered in dozens of varieties. The inflorescences on the bushes are lush and catchy. The flowers are ruby ​​red on the outside, while the inside is purple-pink.

Like most varieties, Rumba blooms twice a season. For the first time, it is covered with flowers in late spring - early summer (May-June). The second less lush bloom occurs in late summer - early autumn (August - September).

The plant is unpretentious in care, but it must be remembered that weigela is "Asian" in origin and may not survive a too harsh winter. Therefore, one of the most important components of plant care is the shelter of the root system for the winter. By its nature, the shrub is light-requiring, but it grows calmly in areas with partial shading. Regarding the soil, the requirements are also extremely simple - the soil must be nutritious and well-drained and moistened.

The optimal planting of weigela red Rumba is summer using cuttings. In the fall, propagation by cuttings is also possible, but only under favorable weather conditions.

Red Prince variety

In 2002 she was honored with the Red Prince Weigela Award in the UK. Seeing a flowering bush, many will agree that the variety was noted by the English horticultural society for a reason. On its branches there are a huge number of tube bells, the length of which ranges from 3 to 6 cm. They form beautiful inflorescences, each of which contains about 4 flowers. The color of the shrub also deserves praise - the red-pomegranate flowers look favorably against the background of bright, green foliage. Weigela Red Prince requires classic self-care: planting and caring for the "Red Prince" is carried out according to all the rules specified above.

Bristol Ruby variety

Weigela red Bristol Ruby can boast of no less attractive appearance: planting and caring for it will not cause any special problems. It was bred by American breeders at the very beginning of the forties of the last century. It belongs to the tall varieties, since its usual height is about three meters. The flowers are large, funnel-shaped, up to 5 cm long. The color of the flowers justifies its name: fully blossoming, the flowers acquire a shade of a precious stone - a ruby. But at first, the buds are lighter, with a pinkish tint.

Simple care for the weigela Bristol Ruby consists in timely watering, forming a bush, regularly plowing the soil around it and sheltering the root system for the winter (especially for small, young bushes).

Weigela Ruby Star has similar characteristics - bright, large flowers in shape resemble elongated bells. The foliage is bright, luscious green, well set off by no less spectacular flowers.

The principles of caring for the plant largely coincide with the methods of keeping the Bristol Ruby variety.

Nana Purpurea variety

Weigela Nana Purpurea, a long-living deciduous shrub, which can reach 30 years old, also admires with its beauty. Its distinctive feature is a specific, purple-chocolate color of foliage. When exposed to enough sunlight, they turn almost completely brown.

Flowers are the main value

Flowers, similar to elongated crimson-pink bells, give a greater decorative effect to the variety. Their length is about 4 cm, the outer color is darker than the inner one. They do not bloom singly, but in small, loose inflorescences. The branches are so densely covered with purple tubular flowers that foliage can barely show through them. It is for this property that the blooming Nana Purpurea was so fond of weigela by flower growers and gardeners in Europe and other countries.

Sizes of a bush variety

The bush is compact, in width and height not exceeding 1-1.2 m. Belongs to plants with slow growth: only 10-13 cm in breadth and upward, weigela Nana grows during one season. Loves sunny areas, but tolerates slight shading well. Although this reduces the decorative effect of the bush: the number of inflorescences decreases, and the color of foliage and petals becomes less expressive.

Preparing a plant for the winter

Requires compulsory shelter for the winter, especially at a young age. For this, agrofibre or spruce "paws" are used. Sometimes the shoots of the "young" are bent to the surface, the branches are fixed and then covered. Some people make frames around the circumference for immature bushes, they put "insulation" on them and fix it. Adult plants do not need such winter preparations. The only exception is that roots sometimes hide as a safety net against winters with little snow.

Alexandra variety (Wine and roses)

Weigela Alexander can also be called a "double decorator". Not only pink and crimson bells adorn the shrub. Its burgundy leaves are also part of the external splendor. Perhaps that is why the plant received another name - Wine and Roses. This variety has become a well-deserved medalist in many flower-growing competitions held in Holland and the USA. And this is not surprising, because her flowers are striking in their beauty. Bright on the outside, inside they are painted in lighter shades. The length of a tubular flower with petals bent outward is about 4 cm. The bush becomes brighter and more luxuriant due to the fact that the flowers form voluminous "lantern sleeves" on the branches, as they grow not one by one, but in inflorescences. The dimensions of the bush are 1-1.5 m in length and width.

Variety Minor Black

If the gardener does not have enough space in the garden, but wants to plant such a beautiful shrub, weigela Minor Black will help him - it does not grow taller than 0.8-1 m and is considered a dwarf variety. In addition to its compact dimensions, it will delight flora lovers with an incredibly attractive appearance. Its glossy leaves of bright, chocolate shades perfectly emphasize the attractiveness of bright pink bells. They form an inflorescence of 3-6 pieces and look just great. Despite the fact that it has a significant difference in size from other varieties, miniature weigela is blooming: planting and caring for the plant is no different from its "tall relatives".

Eva Ratke variety

Weigela Eva Ratke is also characterized by a small volume of the bush, combining the varietal characteristics of two types - Korean and profusely flowering. The height of the bush rarely exceeds 1 m, but the width can reach 3 meters. Its large red flowers with a scarlet tint will not leave anyone indifferent, especially since they form airy inflorescences, gathering several pieces in one "bunch". Unlike other varieties, it can tolerate excessive watering and waterlogged soil. Still, it is better not to abuse such "endurance". The care is standard.

Nana Variegata variety

Another variety that combines unusually beautiful foliage and graceful, delicate flowers is weigela Nana Variegata - a lush shrub with branchy branches. The bush is of medium size, it grows up to 1.2-1.5 m in height, and up to 1.7 m in width. The plant is called variegated weigela, since bright, green leaves are bordered with a creamy yellow stripe and create a patterned ornament. Another name - pink weigela characterizes the color of flowers. They are medium-sized tubular bells (3-4 cm), the shade of which ranges from pale pink to crimson pink.

Weigela Variegata is suitable even for not quite experienced flower growers: planting and caring for her is the simplest, not requiring much effort. Grows well in sunlit areas not exposed to strong drafts. It can put up with the shadow, but it blooms worse. Once every two to three years, it needs pruning overgrown or old shoots. The formation of the bush is carried out after it has completely bloomed. She should be provided with a little shelter for the winter. It is not worth building complex protective structures, since this variety is quite cold-resistant.

Middendorf variety

In the vastness of Sakhalin, weigela Middendorf is found - the most suitable shrub for growing in cool climatic conditions.Among many varieties, it is considered one of the most cold-resistant. It differs not only in resistance to frost, but also in an unusual color for this plant. The tubular bells are yellow-creamy with a small orange spot in the center. They are large, their diameter reaches 3.5 cm, and their length is 4 cm. The foliage is green, with a small burgundy vein in the center. The surface is slightly pubescent, and in shape they tend to an ellipse. The height of the shrub does not exceed 1.5 m. It blooms, like most varieties, twice a year. The decorative properties are high. Check out the article: The best clematis: planting and care in the open field.

A flowering shrub with a beautiful name seems exotic to our gardeners, but in fact it deserves a place in a flower bed both by right of origin and due to its beauty. If you are not yet enjoying the lush flowering and fragrance, be sure to get acquainted with the weigela, because planting in open ground and caring for it is not as difficult as it seems.

The role of weigela in landscape design

Weigela is a perennial shrub related to honeysuckle.

Landscape designers love weigela for two things. Firstly, this shrub blooms twice a year, so it is easier to arrange a flowerbed of continuous flowering with it. The second highlight is the change in the shade of the flowers. Freshly opened buds are light, while fully open buds are bright. Weigela simply amazes with the play of shades in each flower cluster.

Lush tall weigela bush looks great against the backdrop of the lawn

Weigela usually begins to bloom in mid-May and ends only in mid-June. Summer flowering is the most beautiful and lush, often behind the buds, greenery is not at all visible. At the end of August, the bush is again covered with inflorescences, but on a more modest scale. Flowers remain on the weigel until the very end of September.

Landscape designers use this shrub:

• in single plantings as a bright accent on the lawn;

  Weigela stamp looks no worse than pink

• in group plantings to cover bare tree trunks, especially with an openwork crown;

  The slightly disheveled weigela bush contrasts perfectly with the tall spruce cone.

• on alpine slides and rockeries (mostly undersized varieties);

  Dwarf weigela will become a bright spot against the background of rough cobblestones

• as a hedge (tall) and mixborder (low and medium).

  Even a low weigela hedge can transform a boring gray fence.

That is, in almost any role that other ornamental shrubs perform, weigela can also come in handy. By the way, thanks to the varietal variety of shrubs, beautiful compositions can be created from different subspecies of weigel.

The plant grows well next to conifers, traditional for rockeries, as well as other shrubs: spirea, cotoneaster, viburnum (better Buldenezh), barberry, Japanese quince.

Climatic requirements

In nature, weigela grows in Central Asia, more than 15 varieties of this plant have been found there. Only three species are found on the territory of the Russian Federation, all of them grow in the southeast of the country.

If you come across Weigel early, Middendorf or Pleasant on sale, know that these are wild species. They will grow well in the Far East, but they are not adapted to a more severe climate.

Varietal weigels came to us from Europe, where they were popularized by a professor of botany by the name of von Weigel. Therefore, they are quite resistant to cold climates and feel great in the middle zone of the Russian Federation under the open sky.

Automating weigel watering is a great way to provide a moisture-loving plant with the correct moisture regime.

Weigela prefers fertile soil with a lot of humus, alkaline or neutral reaction and good aeration (loose or loosened). It is extremely important not to allow waterlogging, otherwise the plant accustomed to a drier climate will quickly die.

If your region has acidic soil or you cannot provide the weigel with the correct moisture regime, it is better to grow this shrub in a tub. If there is a sufficiently dry place on the site and you are ready, if necessary, to apply the necessary fertilizers and regulate the reaction of the soil, landing in the ground is quite acceptable.

Weigela usually grows in a tub only until the age of three.

Popular varieties

Weigela is incredibly diverse in color and flower shape, bush height and crown characteristics. Thanks to the efforts of specialists, every gardener can find a variety of this shrub that fully meets his needs and tastes. Among the most famous subspecies of weigela:

• Bristol Ruby is a tall subspecies of hybrid origin. Well suited for single plantings and hedges, grows up to 2.3 m in diameter and 3.5 m in height. It got its name from the ruby ​​red flowers that bloom in June-July. Recovers quickly after pruning;
• Nana Variegata is a slow growing dwarf variety bred specifically for rockeries. Leaves are white-motley, and this is a marker of light-loving varieties. Flowers are collected in inflorescences of 3-4, have a pale pink or crimson color;
• Middendorf is a natural type of medium-sized shrub (1–1.5 m). Leaves are bright green with two-sided edging along the veins. The flowers are medium yellow, growing singly or 2–6 on one peduncle. It blooms twice, in our climate for 25-30 days. Weigela Middendorf is the only subspecies that easily tolerates the acidic reaction of the soil and grows on peaty soil;
• Candida is a tall variety with white flowers. Popular with foreign gardeners.
• Eva Rathke is a Polish hybrid of the Korean weigela and the abundantly flowering weigela. The bush has a height of 0.7-1 m, the crown is compact. Tubular flowers of a carmine shade with shine appear in July-August. The growth rate is moderate. Needs shelter for the winter.

The most beautiful varieties of weigela in the photo

The natural form of Weigela Korean is one of the few varieties that can be propagated by seeds.

Large ruby ​​bells in small inflorescences - the visiting card of weigela Bristol Ruby

Dwarf weigela Nana Variegata looks very gentle and romantic

The variety Nana Purpurea is easily recognizable by its purple flowers against a background of dark burgundy-green leaves.

Weigela the Red Prince is distinguished not so much by red flowers as by characteristic wavy leaves

Pink flowers with an elongated funnel and dark reddish leaves confirm that weigela Alexandra is in front of you

Nature itself endowed Weigela Middendorf with such graceful white flowers with a contrasting center

Weigela Candida with her white flowers will definitely appeal to lovers of jasmine and mock orange

At first glance, Eva Rathke looks like the Red Prince, but she is given out by flatter leaf blades.

Weigela Carnival is just a celebration in shades of pink

Sunny Princess variety is one of the most gentle and noble

Veigela Victoria is related to Alexandra, only her flower funnels are shorter and the leaves are wider

Ruby Star is not just another red-flowered variety, its petal tone contrasts less with the foliage.

Japanese weigela is another natural masterpiece

You can recognize the Olympiada variety by its fuchsia petals and a bright light green tone of wide leaf plates.

Weigela variegated stands out among relatives with a light edging of leaf plates

Weigela All Samme Red strongly resembles Bristol Ruby, but it can be distinguished by its deep red colors without a raspberry undertone.

Sunny Princes is not always soft pink, it can be bright

This weigela can definitely become the star of your flower bed.

Japanese weigela is always ready to surprise with a variety of shapes.

Weigela Olympics is notable for the yellow-green tint of the leaves

White flowers with a pink center go well with the variegated leaves of this weigela

It is easy to see that Alexandra and Victoria are close relatives of the Minor Black variety.

Weigela Rosea is a girl's dream come true

Weigela Ebony and Ivory is a harmonious combination of ivory flowers and almost ebony shoots with dark leaves

Weigela Monet looks very decorative even when there are no flowers on it

The fragrance of weigela Tango will cheer you up no worse than the dance of the same name

In the fall, weigela Wings of Fire really resembles a burning bonfire

Young leaves of weigela Victoria have an olive color and only darken with time.

Weigela Pink Poppet will overshadow any rose with beauty during the flowering period

Despite the negative associations with the name, weigela Lucifer is a luxuriously beautiful shrub

Brighella is a classic representative of the Weigela species, it is with the first associations that arise when this word is mentioned

Even if you do not like pink shades, the flowering of weigela Florida will not leave you indifferent.

Another pink weigela with a dance name - Minuet

In this variety, the creators tried to enhance the contrast between white flowers and dark leaves.

If Alexandra and Victoria are too cheerful for you, Weigela Minor Black will help create a gothic setting.

For all types of weigela, the opposite arrangement of leaves, the absence of stipules, the funnel or bell-shaped shape of the flowers, the erect position of the shoots and fruits in the form of bivalve bolls remain in common. By these signs, you can easily recognize relatives, even if other parameters are very different.

Video about the types and varieties of shrubs

Planting methods in open ground

Planting weigela traditionally begins with choosing a suitable place. It should be sunny or located in a weak partial shade, this southeastern beauty does not like strong shading. Light-loving varieties with edging on the leaves are planted only in a sunny place. Another important point is the wind. There must be protection from it (a building, a fence, a less sensitive shrub), otherwise strong gusts will ruin flowers and foliage.

We plant weigela with seedlings:

1. Dig a hole 50x50 cm and a depth of half a meter in the selected place. For regions with fertile land, where active feeding is not required, a pit depth of 40 cm is recommended.If there are several seedlings, make sure that the distance between them is 2 m for tall varieties and 0.8 m for low-growing ones, since over time the bush forms a lush crown.

   If possible, try to free the area from weed roots in advance.

2. Place drainage on the bottom of the pit - layers of gravel and sand. The layer thickness is about 15 cm, it is better not to decrease it.

   Any stones, fragments of bricks or ceramics of a suitable size can be used as drainage

3. Place a seedling in the hole and carefully cover it with a soil mixture of 2 parts humus / leafy soil, 2 parts sand and 1 part turf soil. If your garden lacks fertile soil, add 100 g of nitrophoska and 15 liters of compost for each bush to the soil mixture. Compact the soil by hand and lightly (weigela roots do better in loose soil). The root collar should be at ground level.

   If your weigela is grown in a container, you do not need to free the roots from the soil, plant it along with a lump

4. Water the plants abundantly and mulch the root circle.

   If there is enough water, the puddle will be absorbed into the ground for a long time.

For this method, three-year-old nursery seedlings are best suited; younger plants are not yet ready to grow outdoors without additional supervision.

If experience suggests that the survival rate of plants in your garden is low, you can treat the weigela with a growth stimulant (Radifarm, Viva +).

Weigela care in the garden

If you know the basic needs of a weigela, caring for her becomes not too difficult.

Firstly, the plant needs constant aeration, so the soil in the trunk circle must be loosened regularly.After watering or weeding, it is imperative to cultivate the land to a depth of 5–8 cm. Since not every garden owner can devote so much time to an individual bush, an easier solution can be found - to mulch the tree trunk circle with peat or sawdust. If the mulch layer is 10 cm, the need for frequent loosening will completely disappear.

Wood sawdust, pine needles, bark chips are excellent mulching materials

The root system of the weigela is fibrous (without a well-defined central root extending into the depths), but diverges to the sides not too close to the surface. Therefore, when loosening, you can be sure that when the spade bayonet is fully buried, you will not damage the roots.

The second need is water procedures. It is especially important to water the weigela during dry periods and in spring after a winter with little snow. You shouldn't feel sorry for moisture - each bush needs a bucket of water for 8-10 liters.

When pruning, be sure to keep in mind that the plant reacts to each type of pruning in its own way.

The third stage of caring procedures is pruning. It is held annually in the spring to remove twigs that have frozen over the winter. You only need to form a bush once every 2-3 years.

Video: pruning a young plant

How to care during growth and flowering

To help the weigela get ready for the lush spring bloom, it needs to be fed. Mineral fertilizers are applied even in the snow, so that when the plant wakes up, it can immediately take advantage of useful elements. Urea (20 g per m2), superphosphate and potassium salt (10 g per m2) are used as top dressing.

The time for the second treat comes when the flower buds form. Then weigela needs double superphosphate and potassium sulfate (30 g per 1 bush or 1 m2 of area). The third feeding is carried out before the autumn digging and consists of ash (200 g per 1 m2) or a specialized composition (for example, "Kemira-autumn").

Weigela responds well to universal fertilizers

After feeding the plant, it is imperative to water it very abundantly.

Once I lost several ornamental bushes due to too abundant feeding. I so wanted to have more flowers that I carried out additional processing with mineral fertilizers with increased concentration. I myself do not understand how, with the additional education of a laboratory assistant in chemical analysis, I could have treated chemicals so negligently. But the shameful result in the form of three seedy skeletons of the once strong bushes worked more effectively than any lectures, examinations and an additional tub of cold water. After that, I try to never forget that any feeding is a serious chemical experiment, no matter how ordinary it looks. I even got myself a notebook with observations and I always write down what and when I did in my kindergarten, so as not to allow such annoying situations anymore, not out of an excess of enthusiasm, but simply out of forgetfulness.

Post-flowering care

Immediately after flowering is over, it is the best time for formative pruning of the weigela. At the same time, old shoots are removed, and young ones are shortened by half. The second procedure is postponed for 2 or even 3 years. Further work is carried out according to the calendar, taking into account the weather, the climate of your region and the state of the plants.

One of the most difficult tasks in caring for a weigela is to properly prepare a thermophilic plant for winter. As the saying goes, here it is better to overdo it than to miss it. Gardeners use two methods of covering: with pressed branches and collected.

If necessary, protect the bush from the weight of the snow, you can make a frame of crossed sticks under the covering material.

Low-growing and young shrubs for the winter "spread" on the ground, carefully bending the branches and fixing them so as not to straighten out. Such a mound can be framed with mulch and covered with a waterproof material of choice (from spandbod to film), and then fix the shelter. It is convenient to do this from above with spruce branches, and around the bush - with stones.

This winter shelter is enough for the middle lane.

Tall bushes with woody branches with this approach are easy to break, so they are covered in an upright position. It is necessary to tie the bush into a loose bundle, cover it with the selected material and protect it with a wire frame.

Video: secrets of handling weigela

As a lazy gardener, I really love the tradition of decorating flower beds with stones. At first, when covering a bush, it was necessary to look for suitable pebbles throughout the site and even quietly from my husband to adapt building materials for this business. Then I just found the right amount of beautiful rounded stones in my neighbors and friends, and now I always keep them near the bushes. In the summer they are decorative, and in the winter they become functional.

What problems do gardeners have

One of the possible difficulties when planting a weigela is the wrong time. While most other shrubs and trees are preferred to be planted in the fall, it is best to replant them in the spring. The bushes of the autumn planting take root much worse and often die. To "preserve" the seedlings until spring (if you accidentally or unknowingly acquired them in the fall), dig in them in an inclined position and sprinkle most of the crown with earth. In this state, the weigela successfully overwinters and you can plant it in the spring.

The rest of the problems, too, in most cases, are associated with the untimely execution of garden robots, or an insufficient number of them.

Video: weigela in her own garden

Table: seasonal care jobs

I’ll say banality, but the plants in your own garden are almost children. While I was lazy to deal with them more often 2-3 times a year, they managed at the very least on their own and looked almost decent. But as a mother is disappointed with her own kids, watching the success of their peers, so I began to be ashamed of my flower bed, visiting my friends. The flowerbed was formed precisely from the calculation of saving time, since I love flowers, and I hate sowing annuals every year. But you also have to tinker with the bushes to make them really beautiful. Given that my gardening enthusiasm attacks me in short bursts and usually out of season, it was really difficult to synchronize the needs of the plants and my own mood. Over time, I managed to discipline myself and include the minimum care required for a flower bed in my daily plans. The result turned out both with and without a manicure - it seems a trifle, but the image changes dramatically. True, new plants appear extremely rarely now - I treat everyone as an adopted baby.

Reproduction methods

Gardeners practice reproduction of weigela by seeds and vegetative methods: cuttings (rooting of cut shoots), layering (rooting of shoots due to bending and covering with earth without tearing from the bush), young shoots of the stump ("kids" that regularly appear at the root neck). Growing cuttings from shoots and shoots is carried out identically, and the method of cutting is simpler, since the young growth does not require additional care at the stage of rooting.

Weigelu is most often propagated by arcuate layering

How to grow weigela seedlings

Unlike many other ornamental shrubs, weigela reproduces well by seeds. The collected seeds remain viable for a whole year, but they should not be stored longer. Preliminary preparation of seeds is not required, they are quite tenacious and without additional help. For sowing, you can use seedling trays or flower pots covered with foil, in general, any semblance of a mini-greenhouse.

As a rule, all plants sprout at the same time, which greatly simplifies the care of young shoots. The pick is carried out after the appearance of the second pair of leaves, then you can do weeding. If the seedlings have enough room for growth (7–8 cm between neighbors), in the future they only require watering.

If you could not find tools for picking, you can use the tools at hand

At the end of the first year after the emergence of seedlings, the seedlings grow up to 6-7 cm in height, and the root system occupies an area with a diameter of 3-5 cm. At this stage of life, the stem does not branch yet, but it has 3 or more pairs of leaves, as well as axillary and apical kidneys. These seedlings are ready for outdoor growing. It is best to take the boxes out into the garden and place them under the trees that create partial shade.

Such a bush is suitable for planting in the ground or tub.

By the second year of life, the seedling has a height of 40-50 cm and has a well-grown superficial root system. Such a plant can already find a permanent residence in your garden. But the first flowers will have to wait another 2 years.

The seed propagation method is not suitable for hybrid and garden forms of weigela, in which the desired decorative properties have been imparted by grafting. It is best to sow natural forms of weigela: pleasant, early, Middendorf.

We grow weigela from cuttings

Vegetative propagation is the best way to maintain the varietal traits of your green pet. The optimal time for this procedure is mid-June, when the spring flower buds have already completed their function, and the new ones have not yet appeared. Young, not yet stiff shoots should be cut off. The bottom cut should be straight, the traditional oblique will cut the knot to which the leaves are attached. The top cut should be positioned above the sheet cushion, the bottom cut just below it.

In the distant school years, you were certainly told that plants have three ways of arranging leaves on a stem: alternate (ladder), opposite (paired leaves grow opposite each other) and whorled (leaves cover the stem in a ring). Novice gardeners should definitely remember this, since cuttings in plants with an alternate position are cut from the bottom along the oblique, with whorled and opposite ones - only in a straight line.

You can use a regular blade to cut cuttings.

On the issue of cutting off the two pairs of leaves remaining on the stem, experts are not in agreement: you can remove them completely, cut them in half, or leave 2/3 of the leaf blade.

Then you should proceed like this:

1. Put fresh cuttings in water at room temperature for 1–2 hours.

   The water level in the jar should not be high - it is enough to moisten the lower 2-3 cm

2. Treat the prepared stems with a growth stimulant and leave overnight in a dark, warm room. The optimum holding time is 12 hours, the temperature is 20o-25oC. As a stimulant, a solution of 150 mg of heteroauxin in 1 liter of water is usually used. Please note that without stimulating growth, the probability of rooting the cuttings is reduced by an order of magnitude.

   When buying a bag, be sure to calculate how much product is needed to process all your cuttings.

3. Prepare a mixture of sand with peat and plant the cuttings in open ground, having placed them at a depth of 1 cm. Top the soil mixture should be covered with washed river sand, and then covered tightly with plastic wrap (as an option, with a cut plastic bottle). Water the seedling twice a day until it is fully rooted.

   The cut bottle is the easiest and cheapest mini greenhouse

Experts say that if you stick to this method, good rooting is guaranteed.

Weigela reproduces equally well with both winter and summer cuttings. But summer seedlings bloom for the first time as early as 2 years old, and this is a huge advantage for impatient gardeners. Unfortunately, the first buds will have to be removed before opening in order for the bush to form a more lush and dense crown.

If you missed summer cuttings, you can try growing winter cuttings. They are pruned in April, separating the stem under the bud with unblown leaves. Further, the technology is similar, but rooting is carried out in pots with a soil mixture of sand and turf.After the formation of roots, the plants are pinched and fed with cow dung (0.5 l of slurry per 1 m2) or mineral fertilizers (30 g of superphosphate + 25 g of ammonium nitrate).

Rooting of cuttings is not guaranteed, so prepare them with a margin

Keep in mind that despite additional efforts, winter cuttings not only grow worse, but also take root less readily. Therefore, if you need a guaranteed result, it is better to wait until summer.

The nuances of cultivation in different regions

Due to the high adaptability of the weigela, it grows well almost throughout the country. But there are several nuances that should be taken into account by a gardener from regions with a harsh climate.

Growing in the suburbs and the Leningrad region

In this region, hybrid varieties of this shrub feel best: Candida, Eva Rathke, Rosea, Lucifer. Of those that grow wild in a temperate continental climate, Weigela early is appropriate, which is often found in the south of the Ussuri region and blooming (varieties Purpurea and Alba). But the latter tolerates the cold worse and needs careful shelter. If you are not embarrassed by the need to protect plants from frost, Weigela garden and Weigela Middendorf will also grow well in a garden near Moscow. Here they will not only grow well, but will also be able to successfully propagate by cuttings and seeds according to the standard scheme.

A cottage near Moscow, decorated with weigels, resembles a cozy house in Provence

Planting weigela in the Moscow region is carried out according to the technology already described above. The only difference is that a spring planting is recommended. The first flowering will have to wait 4 years.

In cold climates, weigela of autumn planting often dies already in the first winter, despite careful wrapping.

If you want to get a richly flowering compact bush, two additional dressings per year are enough. During the swelling of leaf buds (but before the first leaves bloom), nitroammofosk is introduced, 40 g per bucket of water under each bush. At the end of spring, before the blooming of flower buds, potassium sulfate and superphosphate are added in the amount of 30 g per 10 liters of water for each bush.

Before the first frosts, the bushes should be covered with agrofibre, dry leaves or spruce branches (just like roses). If the winter is predicted to be harsh, it is better to play it safe and use roofing material or spandbod for shelter.

Video: the best variety of weigela for the middle lane

Growing in Siberia and the Urals

The only obstacle to the normal growth of weigela in this region is the severe winter frosts. Therefore, only the most resistant varieties of weigela need to be planted here: Alba, Striatum, Victoria, Styriaka, Red Prince, Eva Rathke. Gardeners claim that they are able to survive the winter with a short-term temperature drop down to -43 ° C. Of course, even these varieties will not hibernate without shelter, but they can be grown outdoors without wasting time on winter care of tubs.

Despite the apparent fragility and tenderness, this weigela Styriaka is able to withstand an extremely harsh winter.

The planting of seedlings here is also preferable in the spring, since the autumn does not have time to get strong enough before frost. For the rest, caring for a weigela in Siberia is almost the same as in other regions.

TOP 5 useful tips

1. When using weigela in group plantings, be sure to make a common near-trunk circle. This will greatly facilitate loosening, watering and mulching the area and you will spend less time caring for the group..
2. You should not buy expensive pest control drugs for weigela. You can also do with traditional means: anabazine sulfate (0.2% solution), nicotine sulfate (0.4% active substance + a little soap to fix on the leaves), trichlormegaphos (0.2-0.3% solution), karbofos (solution 0.2%), chlorophos (0.3-0.5%).If you are afraid to work with chemicals and complex insecticides ("Keltan", "Rogor", "Nitrafen"), an infusion of makhorka, garlic, wormwood, onions or bitters will help get rid of aphids, leaf-eating caterpillars, thrips, spider mites and mealybug pepper.
3. If you notice bacterial cancer on the root neck of the bush, do not try to save it - all efforts will be in vain. It is better to dig up and burn the plants quickly so that other representatives of the flora in your garden do not get infected with this disease.
4. Those who are lazy to care for weigela seedlings can simplify their task and take advantage of the help of nature. There is no need to pick seeds in the fall - leave them in the ground and let them grow without your participation. In such a severe test, the strongest seedlings will survive, which will be much easier to grow up to two years of age.
5. When freshly transplanted seedlings begin to wilt and change the color of the leaves to yellow, this indicates a plant disease. Check for surface signs of parasites and make sure the humidity is correct. It so happens that everything is in order, but the plants continue to wither. Then, most likely, you unintentionally brought in the parasites yourself when fertilizing the seedling - the larvae of the May beetle or the bear that feed on the roots. Try to spill soil around the bushes with a solution of karbofos or actara, and the weigela will recover over time.

Even if the flowering is not too abundant, weigela looks very decorative

What gardeners say: reviews from practitioners

As you can see, weigela is not as capricious as she is said to be. Most gardeners are happy with their shrubs, even if they don't follow their care plan 100%. Therefore, be sure to try planting it at home, because you can get no less pleasure from leaving than from contemplating its bright buds.

Weigela is a deciduous shrub of the honeysuckle family. Wild varieties live in East and Southeast Asia, the Far East and the island of Java. Decorative weigela is very popular in Europe, where it often decorates home gardens, parks and gardens. In our climatic conditions, gardeners can rightfully be proud of the presence of weigela on their site, since not everyone succeeds in growing and preserving a flowering plant.

Features of growing weigela

To grow this shrub, it is not enough to choose the right variety, it is important to take into account the peculiarities of the microclimate and provide the weigel with proper care. Decorative weigela is moisture-loving and loves well-lit spaces, although it takes root well in the shade of thin tree crowns. True, flowering in the shade will be weak, and the seeds will ripen with a delay. The flower does not tolerate the wind, especially the north one; for cultivation, you need to choose protected places.

In garden design, weigels are planted in hedges, in curtains or singly, undersized species look great on alpine slides. Weigels can be combined in groups, mixed with other shrubs (barberry, spirea, buldenezh) or with junipers.

With proper care, weigela can bloom twice a year - in May-June and in August-September. The second flowering is not very lush, but at the end of May, the branches are completely covered with white, yellow, pink or red bell flowers. The color of the petals of this flower changes: young inflorescences gradually acquire a rich color.

Landing

Weigela is planted in the ground in the spring. The earth should warm up, but the kidneys are not yet swelling at this time. After planting in autumn, shrubs often die in the first winter. Find an elevated, well-lit area on the south side of the house. Please note that in a draft, the shrub is unlikely to bloom or crumble even at the bud stage.

Weigels love loose and rich soil with humus - loamy or sandy loam with a neutral or slightly alkaline reaction. Of all the types of shrubs, only weigela Middendorf grows on peaty soil.Seedlings older than three years are suitable for planting.

Weigela planting methods

Weigela needs a loose and permeable soil. Excessive moisture is contraindicated for a shrub, do not plant bushes in areas where water stagnates for a long time after floods or groundwater is too high. Lime the sour soil before planting the bush (in the fall).

Advice. Many seedlings do not take root during autumn planting, so postpone the procedure until early spring, digging in the seedlings at an angle and covering most of the crown with soil.

When preparing a pit for planting, the quality of the soil is taken into account. In rich soil, a deepening of 30-40 cm is enough, if the soil is poor, the depth should be increased. Create improved conditions for the plant by placing on the bottom:

• drainage (15 cm of broken brick, sand or gravel),
• a layer of fertile soil fertilized with nitrophos (100 g for 1.5 buckets of compost).

The bush will take root more easily if the roots are treated with a rooting stimulant.

For large varieties of weigela, free space is needed so that they can develop normally. When planting several bushes, place them at a distance of at least one and a half meters. For medium-sized varieties, a gap of 70-80 centimeters will be quite sufficient.

Gently spread the roots of the seedling and make sure that no voids form when you fill in the soil.

Attention! Do not deepen the root collar more than 2 centimeters so that after the soil subsides, it will be flush with the surface.

When the seedlings are placed in the ground, water and mulch the area abundantly. Seedlings should be watered abundantly for another 3-4 days. If the summer is dry, water the young bushes regularly; next year, watering may be more moderate.

Weigela care

It is not difficult to care for the weigela: moderate watering, weed removal, loosening the soil, top dressing and pruning. This plant does not need attention any more than many other flowering shrubs.

On a mulched area, frequent watering is not required. After a winter with little snow, especially with frozen shoots, in the spring the bushes are watered abundantly - 10 liters of water for each plant. The same irrigation regime is observed in a dry hot summer - a bucket of water every week. To provide air access to the root system and remove weeds, gently loosen the soil around the bush without damaging the roots.

Important! If the bush is in a dry area, aphids can settle on it, affecting leaves and young branches. Keep an eye on the plant and wash it regularly with a strong jet of water.

Top dressing and fertilization

If, when planting the bushes, you introduced nitrophosphate and compost into the soil, fertilization can be omitted for the next two years. In the third year, stimulation of the growth of leaves and shoots should be started. To do this, in the spring, when the snow has not yet completely melted, it is advisable to apply fertilizer under the bushes:

• urea - 20 g / m2;
• superphosphate - 10 g / m2;
• potassium salt - 10 g / m2

Can be fertilized with Ammophos, Diammofos, Kemira-Lux or other fertilizing with phosphorus, potassium and nitrogen.

The second top dressing will be useful when decorating the buds in late spring. Superphosphate (30 g for each bush) is suitable. After that, the weigela will bloom luxuriantly, and the branches will strengthen for the winter.

Before digging in autumn, apply a third top dressing with wood ash (200 g per square meter). "Kemira - Autumn" works well, the dosage is indicated in the instructions.

Attention! After each feeding, water the bush abundantly and spray with soapy water and alcohol.

Pruning weigela

Weigela, like all shrubs, needs to be trimmed regularly. Sanitary pruning is carried out on young bushes. In early spring, cut off frozen, broken, and excess branches.

For mature plants, pruning is required to form a bush. When the first flowering is over, carefully trim the plant. This should be done before new shoots appear, on which flowers will bloom at the end of summer. If you were not able to cut the bush in time, skip the summer haircut, otherwise there will be no second flowering.

The third pruning is done once every three or four years to rejuvenate the bush. Remove all old branches (3 years or more), and shorten by a third. Stimulating haircut promotes the appearance of young shoots and becomes the prevention of diseases that could settle in the bark of old branches. You can make a radical shake of the weigela by cutting off all the shoots - after that the bush will quickly recover.

Advice. Between spring and autumn blooms, lighten mature bushes by cutting off old shoots at the base.

Weigela transplant

Do not take literally the recommendation to replant plants, especially garden ones, in the spring. We are talking about a transplant only when absolutely necessary: ​​with an unsuccessfully chosen place, unsuitable soil, shade, etc. If a transplant is needed, it should be done in the spring, but do not transplant the plants every year.

Dig up the weigela very carefully, try to preserve the roots as much as possible. Clean and inspect the root system, check for signs of disease, decay, plaque and other pathological changes. If you see that the roots are very damaged, there is no point in replanting the bush, it is better to grow a new plant from a cuttings.

Advice. If you dug up a plant and find that its roots are entwined into a ball, try to untangle them without damaging them.

Do not replant the bush in the fall, as the probability of survival in this case is too small - the roots will not be able to take root and will die.

Reproduction of weigela

The shrub can be propagated by seeds, cuttings and layering.

Seed propagation

The seeds ripen in September, the capsules crack by November and the collection of seed material can begin. Tie a few seed pods with gauze and cut off when the seeds are fully ripe. Shake the contents onto paper and dry. Put dried seeds in a paper bag and set aside until spring in a dark, dry place. Seeds remain viable for 1-2 years, but weigels grown from seeds almost never retain the varietal characteristics of their parent.

At home, you can sow seeds in a pot and create a greenhouse environment for them. In the spring, the sprouts will break through, leave the strongest ones until next year. Then the seedlings can be transplanted into a school or planted for two years under an adult bush. The process, as you can see, is complex and long, and the result is unpredictable. We recommend propagating weigela vegetatively.

Vegetative propagation

It is much easier to propagate weigela with young green shoots, semi-lignified cuttings, stump growth and layering.

Green cuttings

Cut off the young shoots of the current year, cut off the leaves completely, or leave half the leaf plate. Treat one edge of the cutting with a root stimulant.

A green stalk is planted at the end of June. Prepare the soil from peat with sand, the top layer is sand (3 cm). It is enough to deepen the stalk by 1 cm and cover it with a cut plastic bottle or film. Let the cutting breathe every day, lifting the cover for a few hours. The probability of rooting a green cutting is very high, there are almost no failures.

Weigela grown in this way begins to bloom after two years. In order for the plant to develop more actively, it is recommended to cut off the buds.

Last year's cuttings

Cut a semi-lignified stalk in early spring. This must be done before the leaves begin to bloom. Treat the end with a rooting stimulant. You can plant a stalk in a pot or in open ground. In the second case, choose a slightly shaded place. Cover the stalk with a jar and air it daily. It is somewhat more difficult to grow a weigela from a semi-lignified cutting than from a green shoot. If a new shoot appears in a month, then rooting has occurred and the cutting can be pinched.

Young growth from the stump

With this method of reproduction, rooting occurs in the same way as in the cases described above.

Layers

This shrub, like many others, often grows branches inclined to the ground. Bend such a shoot and scratch the bark where it touches the soil. Lubricate with a root stimulator, pin and sprinkle with earth. You will receive a full-fledged seedling next year. Detach the cuttings from the bush and place in the designated place.

Dividing the bush

Herbaceous plants are usually propagated in this way, but shrubs can also be divided if they are too overgrown, or when transplanted.

Dig the bush during the dormant period and wash it off the ground. Divide the plant into parts, young roots at the edges of the bush are suitable for reproduction. Prune all branches before planting so that the root system can develop without unnecessary stress. Plants after division are immediately planted in the ground.

Flowering weigela

Many varieties of this shrub are good not only with bright tubular bell flowers, but also with leaves. Weigela foliage is velvety, green or purple, with a white border. But the main advantage of this species is still abundant flowering twice a day. The first time weigels bloom on last year's shoots, and the second bloom takes place on young twigs. Autumn bloom is not as active as spring bloom, but still the bush covered with fluffy flowers looks extremely impressive. Flowers in leaf pockets are collected in inflorescences at the tops of the shoots. The size of each flower can be up to five centimeters.

Problems, diseases, pests

Weigela rarely gets sick and is resistant to pests, but urgent measures must be taken in case of signs of damage. The disease is evidenced by active fall of foliage, the appearance of white bloom, spots of yellow or purple color.

Common shrub pests are aphids and worms. A timely detected problem is easily eliminated after two treatments of the crown with any insecticide. Infusions of bitter pepper, garlic or potato tops are also effective. Leaf spot is treated with fungicides, a mixture of milk of lime and copper sulfate, or Topsin.

If the seedlings turn yellow and wither, it is possible that their roots are damaged by the larvae of the bear or May beetle brought in with compost. Pour karbofos or actara on the soil.

It is much more difficult to overcome bacterial root cancer, in which rounded bulges appear on the roots, which harden over time. Unfortunately, we have not yet learned how to fight this disease and it is better to remove the bush before the neighboring plants become infected.

Popular types

Weigela Alexandra

Weigela Alexandra

The shrub reaches one and a half meters. This species has burgundy leaves and red-pink flowers. This species feels good in the middle lane. Shoots recover quickly after freezing.

Weigela Nana Variegata

Weigela Nana Variegata

A dwarf shrub with variegated leaves and clusters of white-pink or crimson flowers. Slow growth, suitable for rocky gardens.

Weigela variegated

Weigela variegated

The leaves of this species of weigela are distinguished by a white border at the edges of the leaves. Reaches one and a half meters in height.

Weigela red

Weigela red

Purple variety with a dense crown. Reddish brown leaves and deep-colored flowers with a yellow throat make this species especially popular.

Weigela yellow

Weigela yellow

Or weigela Middendorf - the most winter-hardy species, suitable for growing in open spaces and under trees.

Weigela hybrid

Weigela hybrid

Weigel group obtained by hybridization. Most adapted to the climate of the southern territories. The color of leaves and inflorescences is varied. Weigela flowers in the wild are odorless, but hybridization made it possible to endow the inflorescences with a delicate aroma.

Gardening Tips

• In winter, weigela bushes freeze slightly above the level of snow cover, so choose a place on the site where the snowdrifts are high.
• After snowfalls and in spring when the snow gets heavy, shake off the weigela branches so they don't break off.

It is useful to process the shrub with infusions:

• onion peel (200 g insist 5 days in 10 liters of water);
• garlic (300 g of chopped unpeeled garlic soak for a day in 10 liters of water);
• potato tops (1 kg pour 10 liters of hot water and leave for 2 hours).

Spraying of plants is carried out in the evening.

Answers on questions

How long does a shrub live?

If you manage to create favorable conditions and organize good care, the shrub can live up to 50 years.

Why does not weigela bloom?

The plant may not bloom in the shade, due to a lack of illumination, the shoots become woody, and flowering becomes very scarce or completely absent. Another reason is insufficient watering and lack of feeding. If these obstacles are excluded, pay attention to the root system, it may be damaged by pests.

What should be the care of the bush in winter?

After leaf fall, in October-November, the near-trunk area must be sprinkled with soil to a height of 20 cm. Bend the branches to the ground and press down, being careful not to damage. Cover the bush with roofing material (spunbond) and reinforce the "roof" so that the wind does not rip it off in winter. You can not bend the branches, but pull them with twine, fence the bush with a net. Pour dry leaves and spruce branches inside this structure. Insulate the structure well. If you leave the weigela unprotected, the shoots will die in frost and flowering will not come.

Weigela

Is a deciduous shrub of the Honeysuckle family that can beautify your garden effectively. Weigela will delight with pink, red, cream, yellow and white flowers-bells twice a year - in spring and at the end of summer. It is noteworthy that the color of the inflorescences during flowering is not the same: the newly opened corollas are pale, but gradually they gain strength and become brighter.

Weigela

Landing weigela

The best time to plant is March-April. During the autumn planting, the seedlings do not have time to take root and die, so if you purchased the plants in the fall, you should not rush - wait until spring. Dig in the weigela in an inclined position and cover the crown with earth. When buying, ask about the age of the plant - specimens that are more than 3.5 years old adapt well to new conditions.

'Nana Purpurea' Weigela Seedling Choose your planting area carefully. Weigela is photophilous, warmth and an abundance of the sun are prerequisites for full development. Leaves and flowers are easily damaged by the wind - the planting site must be reliably protected from the northerly winds.

The shrub prefers loose, fertile soil, does not tolerate compaction and waterlogging of the soil. The soil should be loosened regularly, preferably after each watering. If this is not possible, then cover the ground with peat or sawdust.

At the bottom of the planting pit 50 cm deep, lay out gravel and sand (layer thickness - 15 cm), plant the bushes at a distance of 3 m from each other. At the same time, do not deepen the root fossa. Soil mix should include sand, turf and humus in a 2: 2: 1 ratio.

Reproduction of weigela

The most common way of breeding weigela is

grafting

... Wood cuttings are ineffective, and the results will have to wait for a long time - 5 years, therefore reproduction with the help of

green cuttings ... It is better to carry it out before the onset of the formation of the kidneys, i.e. in April-May. The length of the cuttings is 10-12 cm. Make a straight cut, leave two leaves on the cuttings.

Weigela is easily propagated by cuttings. After treatment with a growth stimulant - "Heteroauxin" (150 mg / l of water), the shoots are left in a dark room at a temperature of + 20 ° C for 12 hours. Then they are planted for rooting in a sand-peat mixture, sprinkled with sand and covered with plastic wrap. Planting depth - 0.5 cm. Water the plant twice a day. Roots appear on the 25-40th day. It is recommended to transplant to a permanent place after 1.5 years.

Weigela can also be propagated by seeds. No preliminary preparation of the source material is required.Plant the seeds in boxes filled with sand and fertile soil. The superficially sown seeds are sprinkled with sand and covered with glass. Wait for shoots in 3 weeks.

Weigela care

For better growth, the bushes are systematically pruned, diseased and dry branches are removed. The best time for sanitary pruning is spring or early summer. Areas with wilted flowers are shortened, and the cut sites are treated with garden varnish (can be found commercially).

Weigela needs your care

Young Weigela needs your care:

• For the winter, wrap the bushes with kraft paper or modern covering material - spunbond.
• Sprinkle the trunk circle with spruce branches or dry foliage. These simple activities will help the plant to endure severe frosts.
• If, after winter, the plant is very frozen, then abundant watering will correct the situation (10 liters of water per bush). The same becomes imperative in hot weather.

Mature shrubs require much less attention:

• In the spring, after a heavy snowfall, shake off the snow from the branches. A frame made of wooden slats, carefully installed in the fall, will help prevent the deformation of the bush under the weight of the snow.
• In winters with little snow, weigelu is covered with lutrasil or tar paper.
• The soil is fertilized twice a year. The first time - in early spring, the second - during the formation of buds, in early June. Potassium sulfate, double superphosphate, urea are used for this.
• When the first signs of bacterial damage to the leaves appear (yellowish, purple lesions, premature fall, white bloom on the upper side of the leaf), a mixture of milk of lime and copper sulfate (Bordeaux liquid) is used. Will get rid of rot and rusty spots "Topsin", which irrigates the bush (during the growth period, a 1% solution is used, before bud break - 3%). Infusions of bitter pepper, garlic, wormwood, potato tops are effective against pests.

Weigela species

1. Weigela early (W. praecox)

Leafy shrub with gray bark, reaching a height of 2 m. The flowers are lowered, pink in color. Blooms in May. The flowering time is 15-25 days. Looks advantageous in the form of uncut hedges.

Weigela early (Weigela praecox)

2. Weigela Middendorf (W. middendorffiana)

A plant with ascending shoots 1.5 m high. The flowers are creamy white or yellowish with an orange center. It blooms 2 times a year (in autumn and spring) for 30 days. It is used in group and single plantings along the edges, under trees, on lawns.

Weigel Middendorf.

3. Weigela blooming (W. florida)

A shrub with bright green leaves, which persist even in winter, grows up to 3 m. Large tubular flowers, collected in small inflorescences, are pink at the edges, and white inside. This species of weigela blooms in May - early June.

Weigela blooming (W. florida)

4. Weigela Korean (W. coraeensis)

Reaches 1.5 m in height. Bells, located in semi-umbellate inflorescences, are first white, then pink, and then acquire a rich carmine hue. Blooms in early June, flowering duration - 10-15 days.

Weigela Korean (W. coraeensis)

5. Weigela abundantly flowering (W. floribunda)

One of the fastest growing species, reaching 3 m in height. The lowered flowers are first red, and then lose their intensity and become light pink. Blooms in May.

Weigela abundantly flowering (W. floribunda) It is better to place plants in groups of 3-5 specimens, which are combined in the color of the corolla, the size and shape of the bushes and coincide in terms of flowering.

Weigela blooming 'Nana variegata' in the garden Space between shrubs can be planted with ferns, astilbe or hosts.