Hydrangea paniculata varieties garden planting and outdoor care

Panicle hydrangea is a perennial shrub with a powerful root system. Hydrangea roots spread far beyond the crown, located above the ground. The shrub can reach a height of 10 m. The elliptical leaves are up to 12 cm in length, the size of the flowers is up to 2.5 cm in diameter. The flowers are sterile, at the beginning of flowering they have a greenish light shade, gradually turning pink with the growth of the flower. Plants begin to bloom after 4 - 5 years. Hydrangea produces fruits in the form of small boxes filled with seeds. After ripening, the capsule cracks.

Types of hydrangea

Plant varieties are distinguished by the shape of the flowering and the color of the petals:

• Flowering - spherical, racemose;
• Possible shades of petals - white, red, pink, lilac, bicolor.

In a rather cool Russian climate, hydrangea takes root well. The photo of the plants shows that the flowering is painted in delicate shades, looks good in open areas. Hydrangea blooms for a long time.

Popular varieties

Garden hydrangea has become widespread, many varieties have been selectively bred:

• Limelight. A neat shrub of medium size (up to 2 m in height), keeps its shape without additional supporting devices. If the hydrangea grows in an area where partial shade remains most of the time, the flowers have a delicate lime shade. In the bright sun, the bloom becomes white.
• Matilda. Sprawling shrub, crown projection reaches 3 m in diameter, height up to 2 m. During flowering, hydrangea changes the shade of petals from cream to pink with a green tint.
• Floribunda. The height of the shrub reaches 2 m, the inflorescences are very lush, creamy. Hydrangea has elongated pedicels.
• Kyushu. Hydrangea reaches 3 m in height, the crown is spreading, shaped like a fan. The peculiarity of the variety is fragrant flowers.
• Grandiflora.The bloom is large, in the form of pyramids, blooms late, in the second half of summer. During the flowering period, the shade of the petals changes in stages: cream, white, pink

The listed varieties were bred for a long time and are actively distributed in public front gardens. There are dozens of newer varietal varieties of panicle hydrangea.

Landing conditions

On the open ground, hydrangea behaves unpretentious, requires minimal maintenance. The ideal planting material is seedlings 4 - 5 years old. When using such seedlings, the plant will bloom in the first year after planting. The right time for planting is early spring, when the soil is still highly moist. In the autumn, planting is also possible, but only in warm regions with non-severe winters.

Pick-up location

Hydrangea feels equally well in the sun and in partial shade, but it is recommended to select well-lit locations for landing. In the morning, hydrangea loves the sun, in the late afternoon it prefers shade. The eastern side of the site and a small shade on the western side will help the hydrangea to take root well, grow and give a bright bloom.

Perfect ground

Hydrangea paniculata loves acidic soil, rich in humus with a clay structure. In soil with a pH level of up to 6.0, the inflorescences become brightest. It is also important that the plants consume enough moisture. Loose, heavy soil with high acidity is ideal for the growth and flowering of hydrangeas.

Sandy or alkaline soil is not suitable for shrubs. Do not add compounds containing lime, chalk or wood ash to the soil.

About landing step by step

When planting hydrangeas, it is recommended to observe the distance between seedlings 1.2 - 1.4 m. So the root system of each shrub will successfully grow and get stronger. To achieve early flowering, you can reduce the distance between seedlings to 0.7 - 0.8 m, after a few years, thinning the grown bushes.

Step-by-step instructions for planting:

• Dig holes for seedlings at least 2 weeks in advance (30 days before planting). Hydrangeas require spacious planting pits, on average 50 cm in diameter and 60 cm deep. If the seedlings are adult, large, the pit should be made larger.
• Potting mix is ​​added to the pit. For the preparation of the soil mixture, humus, peat, and black earth are used. Urea (25 g), potassium sulfate (29 g), superphosphate (70 g) are added in small amounts.
• On the day of planting, a pit is dug again, but of a smaller size. A hydrangea seedling is placed inside. It is important to gently spread the roots of the sprout. The seedling should be held in the desired position, the hole should be covered with soil, compacting it to the desired state.
• The bush must be watered with plenty of water (8 - 12 l). Sawdust, tree bark or peat are applied to the surrounding soil. The area of ​​application is about 20 cm around the trunk, the height of the top dressing is 6 - 8 cm.
• Until the moment when the hydrangea is accepted, it should be covered from the wind and daytime sunshine. This can be done using large sheets of polyethylene.

It is recommended to prune the root system of the seedlings a little. You can determine the desired planting depth by the root collar. This area should rise 1 to 2 cm above the general ground level.

Growing in the garden and care

Hydrangea care is standard. It is necessary to ensure that the soil near the shrub does not overgrow with weeds, organize regular watering and feed the hydrangea with the introduction of substances useful for it.

Growing

In the first few years after planting, it is recommended to prune the hydrangea inflorescences. So the plant will not waste energy on feeding the flowers, but will build a developed root system.

Top dressing, fertilizers

For the first 2 years, hydrangea, planted in prepared soil, does not need feeding. Subsequently, the plant should be fed as follows:

• In spring, compound fertilizers are applied under the bush (they must contain phosphorus, nitrogen, potassium);
• When the first inflorescences appear, secondary feeding is carried out for the season (superphosphate and potassium sulfate);
• Twice a year, from spring to autumn, it is necessary to fertilize the hydrangea with cow or chicken droppings diluted with water.

Hydrangea paniculata loves an acidic environment and reacts well to lactic acid. Once a month, you can add kefir, sour milk, milk whey to the ground.

Watering hydrangeas

Without enough moisture, the plant may not survive wintering. Recommended rules for watering panicle hydrangea:

• In dry, hot summer periods, 15 - 20 liters of water are brought under the bush every week;
• In less dry periods, watering is carried out every 15 days in the amount of 15 - 25 liters of water;
• In rainy seasons, watering is carried out 4-5 times with a volume of 15-25 liters.

Apply water in portions of several liters closer to the trunks of the bush.

General recommendations for the care of hydrangea

Like most garden plants, hydrangeas need additional care measures:

• To maintain soil moisture around the hydrangea, mulching with needles, peat chips, sawdust and leaves is recommended.
• In the first few years after planting, it is unacceptable to expose the plant to drafts. Subsequently, the hydrangea may not be covered from the wind.
• Top dressing is unacceptable more often than 1 time in 10 days. An excess of nutrients leads to a change in the color of the foliage, a decrease in winter hardiness.
• Loosening the soil around the bush is carried out as needed. Strong compaction of the soil should not be allowed.

The addition of potassium permanganate will help protect the hydrangea from pests and parasites. Potassium permanganate will not have a detrimental effect on the perennial itself.

Transplanting and pruning hydrangea paniculata

You can transplant hydrangea, taking into account its love for moisture, in early spring. Pruning is carried out according to the following rules:

• In late autumn, I cut off all the inflorescences so that the stems do not break and damage under their weight with a layer of snow;
• In spring, cutting off weak shoots provides more lush flowering;
• Dying, weak inflorescences are removed completely;
• Shoots damaged in winter are cut to the woody base.

With the help of pruning, you can achieve a lush, bright flowering of paniculate hydrangea.

Propagation of hydrangea

Hydrangea is a perennial shrub, reproduction is carried out in a vegetative way. For reproduction, cuttings, bush division, seeds, layering are used.

Seedlings obtained from cuttings take root best of all. They are cut at the beginning of summer when the stems contain a lot of moisture. The material for the cuttings is the shoots in the lower part of the shrub, close to the ground. They should be removed by hand without using cutting tools. Cuttings should reach 10 cm, have 3 - 5 buds.

Preparation for wintering

Hydrangea paniculata, being a perennial shrub, survives winter periods well. Despite this, the plant should be prepared for wintering:

• Throughout the year, do not allow an excess of fertilizing with nitrogen, soil alkalinity;
• In late autumn, the soil around the shrub is covered with peat or dry leaves with a layer of 20 cm.

Such insulation will keep the root system intact.

Features and possible problems

Hydrangea paniculata is susceptible to the following diseases:

• Gray rot. It appears as a result of fungal formations of a brown color. It is necessary to fight the fungus immediately after detection.
• White rot. With the disease, the root system of the plant is affected. The stems of the shrub do not receive nutrients from the soil, as a result of which the hydrangea dries up.
• Powdery mildew. The disease affects the leaves of the plant, provokes the death of stems and inflorescences.
• Tracheomycotic wilting. Fungal infection, in which the root system of the plant is infected first, then the entire shrub.

For the treatment of these diseases, fungicidal preparations are used, which are sold in gardening stores.Panicle hydrangea can also be affected by pests: snails, aphids, bugs, weevils, etc. To combat them, insecticidal preparations are used.

Even in a very large garden area, it is impossible not to notice a flower bed decorated with large and multi-colored hydrangea caps. This wonderful beautiful plant is so mesmerizing to the eye that you simply cannot pass by it. Hydrangeas have more than 35 species, among which there are varieties that grow well and winter in the Urals and Siberia. But in whatever latitude of our country your garden is, before buying a beauty, you need to study all the features of planting, caring for and growing it.

Garden hydrangea: photos, types, varieties

Most hydrangea species are shrubs, but there are vines and small trees. All of them have beautiful large or small leaves, and flowers collected in paniculate or corymbose inflorescences. All inflorescences are located at the tops of the shoots and have sterile or fertile flowers. Most often, their color can be white, pink or blue.

Among them, only tree hydrangea and paniculate hydrangea are grown as perennial plants in the gardens of central Russia.

Hydrangea tree - photo

The shrub, which grows up to one and a half meters in height, has large oval leaves, the length of which reaches 20 cm. Slightly pubescent leaf plates are distinguished by a heart-shaped notch at the base and jagged edges along the edges. From above they are green, and from below they have a bluish tint. Large sterile and small fertile flowers are collected in corymbose inflorescences, which bloom in the first half of July.

Most suitable for planting in the garden the following varieties of hydrangea tree-like:

1. Variety "White House" is a bush with a height of one to one and a half meters. At the ends of its shoots, large thyroid inflorescences are formed, consisting of snow-white sterile and creamy white fertile flowers.
2. InvincibellSpirit grows up to 0.9-1.2 m. Its large inflorescences consist of sterile flowers. At first, they have a bright pink color, and over time they fade to light pink.
3. Variety "Incrediboll" is a bush that reaches a height of 1.2-1.5 m, and has large spherical white inflorescences.
4. Heis Starburst is a short bush with slender shoots that can break under the weight of large inflorescences. The inflorescences consisting of double flowers reach 25 cm in diameter.
5. The Annabelle variety blooms with white sterile flowers, which form large inflorescences with a diameter of up to 25 cm.

Hydrangea paniculata - varieties, photo

Panicle hydrangea differs from tree hydrangea in inflorescences, which consist of large sterile and small fertile flowers, and grow up to 20-25 cm in length... During flowering, they can change color. For the first time days, the petals of flowers are white, after a while they acquire a pink tint, and by the end of flowering they turn green. Large leaves of paniculate species are distinguished by an ovoid or elliptical shape. They are heavily pubescent below, and slightly above.

Garden varieties bloom from June to July, and bloom for a long time. Among them are:

1. Variety "Vanilla Freise" grows up to two meters and is distinguished by a conical inflorescence, on which flowers of a strawberry-pink color are densely located.
2. The Phantom variety is a bush with a spreading crown, growing up to 2.5 m. Its pyramidal large inflorescences have a creamy white hue at the beginning of flowering, and turn pink by autumn.
3. Variety "Pinky-Winky" is a bush up to 1.8 m high, on the shoots of which openwork conical purple-pink inflorescences are formed.
4. The Limelight variety is distinguished by dense greenish inflorescences, which turn pink by the end of the season.
5. The variety "Grandiflora" has been known among gardeners for a long time for its dense inflorescences, which consist of sterile flowers.
6. The Vims Red variety is a beautifully shaped bush that reaches a height of 2 m.From the ground to the very top, it is covered with openwork inflorescences that bloom in June. At first they have a white color, then they become deep pink, and after a while - burgundy-red.
7. The variety "White Lady" is distinguished by white inflorescences, which consist of a few flowers with jagged edges. Grows up to two meters.
8. The Kiushu variety is a bush with delicate inflorescences and erect shoots up to 2.5 m high.
9. The "Great Star" variety is a plant up to two meters in height. Its shoots are strewn with inflorescences, which consist of white flowers with petals in the shape of a "propeller".
10. Earley Sensation is distinguished by its early flowering and dark purple shoots. On its openwork, wide-conical inflorescences, purple-pink flowers are formed.
11. The variety "Diamond Rouge" is a bush up to 1.8 m high. Its dense, large inflorescences very quickly acquire a red hue.
12. The Daruma variety is a low-growing shrub with reddish leaves and small openwork inflorescences. The dark pink flowers become reddish over time.

Features of growing garden hydrangea

Those who decide to grow a hydrangea on their garden plot need follow certain rules her planting, placement and care. It should be remembered that only treelike and panicle hydrangeas grow in Siberia.

Planting and leaving

The plant loves well-lit areas with little shade. In sunny areas, hydrangeas grow well and bloom quickly, but from excessive heat they suffer from drying out of the soil and lose their turgor. Small inflorescences are formed in full shade.

The soil for planting shrubs must have an acidic reaction. Alkaline soil plant will suffer from chlorosis and bloom poorly... Neutral soil for hydrangea is unacceptable.

Hydrangeas planted on nutritious loams will take root well and will grow. Therefore, it is recommended to add clay during planting at the bottom of the pit.

Hydrangea belongs to moisture-loving plants, however, it is not recommended to plant it in areas with a high groundwater level. In addition, the wintering of the shrub directly depends on the moisture intake of the plant roots. The less moisture they accumulate in the fall, the better the plant will overwinter. That is why in autumn the soil around the bushes must be partially covered from precipitation.

Planting garden hydrangeas is done in the spring in pits, approximate the dimensions of which should be 50x50x70 cm... The plant is planted after the last frost has passed.

Store-bought plants with a closed root system can be planted until the end of summer, preparing deeper and wider pits for them. After planting, the bushes are well watered, and the soil around them is 6 cm covered with sawdust or peat mulch.

The distance between plants should be from one to one and a half meters. If the group planting was conceived as a "hedge", then the bushes are planted more densely.

Watering and feeding

During the season in the open field, the bushes are watered once a week. In hot months, the frequency of watering increases up to 2 times a week.

Hydrangea care includes mandatory feeding, which produced twice a year:

1. In May or June, during the budding period, the plant is fed with nitrogen fertilizers.
2. In summer, the bushes need potassium, which is added according to the instructions.

It is better not to apply ash under hydrangea bushes, since it reduces the acidity of the soil.

Pruning hydrangea

When caring for a hydrangea, you need to be especially careful about pruning a shrub. Pruning is done every spring. Some growers cut the bushes very short, as a result of which they are removed most flower buds... This cannot be done. It is recommended to approach each bush individually.

First of all, the frozen parts of the shoots are cut out from the plant.If after this there are enough powerful shoots, then last year's branches can be cut to the upper branch. With a small number of annual shoots, only inflorescences are removed from the faded branches.

Too old and thickening shoots are completely cut out. Annual shoots are not recommended to be cut out at all. It should be noted that inflorescences for bouquets can be cut during the entire period until autumn.

What to do to make the hydrangea change color?

Experienced flower growers know that by feeding bushes with pink inflorescences with certain fertilizers, as a result, you can get a plant, blooming with blue or blue flowers... To do this, starting in September, once every two weeks, the following is added to the soil:

• aluminum alum solution (2 pcs. for 1 liter of water);
• iron or aluminum sulfate (20-50 g).

If fertilizers are applied irregularly, then both blue and pink inflorescences will begin to form on the shrub.

Preparing hydrangeas for winter

Unfortunately, without shelter in the Urals and Siberia, hydrangea will not be able to overwinter. Therefore, caring for her in regions with cold winters includes preparing bushes for wintering.

Before sheltering the plants, it is necessary to feed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers and remove all the leaves from them, leaving only the upper ones. This will help speed up the process of lignification of the shoots.

Paniculate and tree hydrangea grown in the southern regions can be simply huddle high or cover with peat... For regions with unpredictable and cold winters, you can choose one of the proposed methods:

1. Cover the trunk circle with spruce branches. Bend the shoots away from the center, secure with staples and cover with spruce branches. Cover the center of the bush with peat. Lutrasil is laid on top, which is pressed with bricks or boards.
2. Young small bushes are tied with a rope and carefully, without haste, are attracted and tied to boards lying on the ground, into which nails are driven. From above, the plants are thrown with sawdust or spruce branches, and covered with spunbond, lutrasil or a sheet of iron.
3. It will be difficult to pull powerful bushes to the ground, so a different method of shelter is used for them. The shoots are wrapped in lutrasil, fixed with tape or rope. A metal mesh is installed around the bush. Dry leaves are thrown inside the armament, and everything is covered with polyethylene or roofing felt from above. The frame should be 10-15 cm higher than the bushes.

When growing hydrangeas, you should know that every year it winter hardiness increases... Therefore, in some regions, over time, you can refuse to shelter bushes for the winter. But it is imperative to cover young plants.

Diseases and pests of garden hydrangea

The plant is resistant to diseases and pests, however, may be amazed:

1. Aphids, which can be driven away by infusion of garlic. To do this, 200 g of chopped garlic is infused in a bucket of water for two days. You can add 40 g of laundry soap to the solution, and spray the plant once every 5-7 days.
2. Powdery mildew infects hydrangeas with excess air humidity. When it appears, the plant is treated with a solution of copper sulfate with soap or special fungicidal agents.
3. Sharply clarified hydrangea leaves indicate plant chlorosis. The leaves can lose their natural color due to the excessive content of humus or lime in the soil. Chlorosis is eliminated by alternately watering the plant every three days with copper sulfate and potassium nitrate.

The most beautiful hydrangea plant is excellent suitable for single and group plantings, goes well with low conifers and looks great against the background of stones. With proper planting and caring for it, you can admire the magnificent flowering and be proud of your flower garden all summer until autumn.

Garden hydrangea

Do you want to decorate your garden with an unusual shrub? Try planting a hydrangea flower, planting and caring for which in the open field is simple, reproduction and growing of hydrangea is possible even for novice gardeners. You can find a fantastically beautiful flower by reading the description of the variety and considering its combination with other plants in landscape design. In the photo, the hydrangea looks like the queen of the garden.

Varieties and varieties of hydrangea

Hydrangea is an undoubted favorite among flowers in summer cottages. A long flowering period, a variety of shapes and tones attract special attention to it from gardeners and designers; more and more often, various varieties of this perennial are used in landscape design.

Blue hydrangea

Hydrangeas can be spherical, racemose, and white, lilac, red, two-colored in color. The most common in our latitudes is the tree hydrangea. Unpretentious, fairly easy to care for and grow, the plant is recommended for novice gardeners. Several varieties of shrubs have been bred by breeders:

• Bella Anna - a new variety of tree hydrangea, has rather large spherical inflorescences, the crown grows up to three meters in diameter, the color of the petals is from pale pink to purple-pink, blooms throughout the summer season and September;

Bella Anna variety

• "Anabel" - a lush blooming, spreading shrub about 1.5 m high, inflorescences in the form of a ball of snow-white color, blooms in early July and retains its color throughout the summer season until September. After the end of flowering, the leaves of the plant remain bright green throughout the fall. Variety "Anabel" is adapted for wintering, does not require special shelter for the winter, frost-resistant;

"Anabel"

• "Grandiflora" - differs in large crystal-white inflorescences, blooms for 4 months;

"Grandiflora"

• "Invincibel Spirit" - a new variety of hydrangea with pink petals;

"Invisibel Spirit"

• "Sterilis" - a variety with hemispherical, dense, heavy inflorescences, during the flowering period - from July to October - the petals radically change color: from pale green to crystal white.

"Sterilis"

Also, a fairly common perennial variety - Panicle hydrangea, planting and caring for which is quite simple. This flower is attractive with inflorescences of an unusual - paniculate - shape, frost-resistant, characterized by rapid recovery even in unfavorable climatic conditions. An interesting feature of this hydrangea variety is the particularly long flowering period, during which the inflorescence changes its color. Does not need mulching for the winter. The most common varieties of panicle hydrangea are:

• Vanilla Fraze - variety with pale white and pink petals;

"Vanilla Fries"

• "Limelight" - the plant blooms in autumn, differs in large inflorescences of a pale lemon shade;

"Limelight"

• "Pinky Winky" - hydrangea with soft red petals.

"Pinky Winky"

How to plant correctly

Growing hydrangeas in the open field is possible even for novice gardeners. If a hydrangea is chosen for a flower garden, planting and caring for it will never be a burden, they will become favorite activities. The correct location should be chosen for planting the shrub. Hydrangea does not tolerate long shading, the best place to plant it is on the sunny side. Hydrangea propagation is carried out by separate bushes or cuttings. It is recommended to plant a flower in spring (in May) or in autumn (in warm September).

Even a novice gardener can plant a hydrangea.

To plant a hydrangea with a bush in the open field, you need to dig a planting hole about 60 cm deep, about half a meter wide and long. The distance between the bushes is at least 1.5 meters. A flower, growing with proper care, will occupy a much larger area than when planted.The pits should be filled with a special mixture, including peat, sand, soil, humus (1: 1: 2: 2) and fertilizers (landscape design experts recommend combining 20 g of urea, potassium sulphide each, add about 60 g of superphosphate in granules and 10 kg of humus ).

Attention: do not add lime to the soil mixture for hydrangea - it is detrimental to this plant.

When planting, it should be borne in mind that the root collar of the plant should be at ground level. After planting the hydrangea in open ground, it must be watered abundantly.

Tip: For the first two flowering seasons, it is recommended to pick off the inflorescences. The root system of the plant will get stronger and grow, which will subsequently give the bush strength and splendor.

Suitable care

Hydrangea care consists in weeding and loosening the soil around it, organizing a timely and correct watering regime. In addition, to prevent rapid evaporation of moisture, it is recommended to mulch the bush in early summer with peat or sawdust.

Fading flowers must be cut off so that they do not pull strength from the plant.

A perennial needs proper pruning. The plant should be pruned in the spring before the beginning of the growing season, removing old shoots and leaving young and strong ones, shortening them by 3-5 buds. Faded and dried bush inflorescences must be removed. Old perennial bushes must be cut almost at the root, leaving only low stumps, from which young shoots will develop.

Fertilizing and fertilizing hydrangeas

The hydrangea planted in prepared and fertilized soil for the first two years can not be fertilized or fed.
Then the procedure for feeding hydrangeas is as follows:

• in the spring it is necessary to apply a complex fertilizer containing micro- and macroelements (phosphorus, potassium, nitrogen) under each bush;
• the second time in a season, top dressing (potassium sulfate together with superphosphate) is applied during the period when buds appear on the bush;
• a couple of times it is advisable to feed the perennial with diluted chicken droppings or cow dung.

Hydrangea responds very well to feeding

Caution: Excessive fertilization of nitrogen can lead to greening of hydrangea petals and problems with the wintering of the plant.

It should also be borne in mind that hydrangea responds well to lactic acid, therefore it is important when growing it to periodically water the bush with soaked sour bread, milk whey, sour milk, kefir.

Propagation of hydrangea

Like other perennial shrubs, hydrangea can be propagated vegetatively (by cuttings, dividing the bush, layering) and seeds.

To grow shrubs from cuttings, it is necessary to cut the tops of young non-lignified shoots in mid-July and root them in specially prepared soil, consisting of coarse sand and peat. Experts recommend taking measures to increase soil moisture under the cuttings. For this, sphagnum moss is added to it. Cuttings are planted in such soil a little at an angle, at a small (up to 5 cm) distance and provide them with a temperature regime in the range of 16-20 ° C. 4-5 weeks are enough for rooting. After that, the hydrangea is planted in a permanent growing area and provided with proper care.

Propagation of hydrangea by cuttings

When the hydrangea propagates by dividing the bush, part of it is separated, while it is important that there are 2-3 buds on the young shoots, they are dug up and transplanted to a new place.

For the propagation of hydrangeas by layering, it is necessary to bend one of the young shoots of the growing bush to the ground and dig it into a previously dug hole (up to 15-20 cm deep). In order to prevent the shoot from straightening, it can be fixed with staples. Experienced gardeners recommend making an incision on the part of the shoot that will be in the ground to speed up the rooting process. It is necessary to regularly water the branch, it can also be mulched.After the formation of its own root system at the branch, it is separated from the mother bush and planted in a new place.

Propagation of hydrangea by layering

Diseases and pests

As a rule, hydrangea is quite resistant to all sorts of pests and diseases. However, it can also become infected with chlorosis, downy mildew, spider mites, and green leaf aphids can appear on it.

Chlorosis is expressed in a sharp lightening of the leaves of the plant, the loss of their natural color. The reason for its development is the excessive content of lime or humus in the soil. To eliminate chlorosis, it is enough to water the plant with solutions of nitric acid potassium and copper sulfate in turn with an interval of three days.

Hydrangea disease - chlorosis

The cause of hydrangea disease with downy mildew is excess air humidity. For treatment, it is recommended to treat the hardwood surface with a solution of copper sulfate with the addition of soap.

Garlic infusion will help drive aphids from the plant. It is necessary to prepare a garlic infusion (200 g of chopped garlic in a bucket of water, let it brew for 2 days), add laundry soap (40 g) and irrigate the perennial with this infusion every 5-7 days until the aphids are destroyed.

Hydrangea: combination with other plants

In a flower garden or garden, hydrangea is quite effective both by itself and in combination with other flowers. For example, panicle hydrangea looks great next to clumps of purple-leaved barberries, viburnum vesicle. The beauty of the tree-like hydrangea is emphasized by daylilies, sheared barberry, undersized juniper.

Hydrangea in the design of the flower bed

Hydrangea in landscape design

Hydrangea is a fantastically beautiful flower that inspires beautiful compositions in landscaping. Taking into account the climatic conditions, in our latitudes it is recommended to plant a tree-like, paniculate and petiolate hydrangea. Hydrangea looks magical in the photo in large compositions when it grows in the squares, surprising everyone with the size and beauty of its inflorescences. To emphasize the beauty of hydrangea, you can surround it with borders of spirits, cotoneaster, and other shrubs. The hydrangea should be planted in a flower garden in the background so that it does not obscure other plants.

Hydrangea in landscape design

It is not recommended to combine hydrangea with yellow, red, orange flowers. Plants with bluish flowers, needles or leaves can successfully shade a shrub - for example, clematis, cereals, hosts, stunted junipers.
A classic landscape design is the combination of hydrangea with pink phlox with a round shape of inflorescences, thujas, microbiota. Also hydrangea is used in mixborders to create compositions along garden paths, can be grown as a hedge.

Hydrangea is the foundation of a beautiful garden. With proper care, it will delight you for years to come. Experiment with different varieties of this shrub, try to decorate your gazebo with climbing hydrangea, plant a tree-like one along the paths, create a living fence using a paniculata.

Garden hydrangea care: video

Garden hydrangea: photo

We describe planting and caring for hydrangeas in spring and autumn (tree, large-leaved (garden), paniculate and petiolate). Consider the place, soil, planting rules and step-by-step instructions, as well as watering, feeding, pruning and preparing for winter (Moscow region, North-West, Ural, Siberia and southern regions).

Planting hydrangeas in open ground: location, soil, distance and depth

The plant is thermophilic, fast-growing and needs fertile soil and sufficient moisture.

We describe planting in open ground for any type of hydrangea: oak-leaved, large-leaved (garden), paniculate, serrate, treelike, petiolate, Sargent and others.

Pick-up location

Hydrangea (all types) is a light-loving plant, it grows well in a sunny and open place, but bright sun and strong winds should be avoided. Therefore, at the peak of the heat, light shading is necessary, she very much loves diffused light.

At the same time, the shrub is able to grow well in light partial shade, in this case it later blooms with fewer flowers. It is very important to have sun rays in the morning, in the morning. Therefore, the east side is better suited than the west side.

Soil and acidity

Hydrangea grows well on fertile, humus-rich clay soils. It develops worse on red earth, and sandy soils are contraindicated.

The optimum acidity level is pH 5.2-6.0 (slightly acidic soil). The maximum brightness of inflorescences is observed precisely on acidic soil, and on neutral soil, slow development and pale color.

Alkaline soil leads to chlorosis (yellowing of the leaves). When the bush grows on alkaline soil, there is often a lack of iron and magnesium, which is manifested by light and pale color of the leaves.

Therefore, acidify the soil or treat the bush with iron chelate. In past centuries, gardeners buried iron items (nails, a bank, a horseshoe).

When planting, prepare a special balanced soil mixture with fertilizers.

Soil mix

Compound: humus, sod land, leafy soil and peat - equal parts or humus, garden soil (black soil), peat and sand - 2: 2: 1: 1. And also nutrients: 20-25 grams (tablespoon + teaspoon) of carbamide (urea), 24-29 grams of potassium sulfate (two tablespoons) and 60-70 grams of superphosphate (150-250 grams of bone meal).

If spruce and pine trees grow nearby, then under them you can dig up light, loose and slightly acidic soil. Some gardeners successfully grow flowers in such soil, even without fertilizing when planting.

A complete ban is lime, chalk and wood ash.

Landing distance

Large-leaved - 120-160 cm, and paniculate 140-240 cm between bushes, and from the nearest large shrubs and trees - 230-300 cm. If you want to plant hydrangea in a row (hedge, "mixborder"), you can dig a trench wide 90-110 cm.

If you want to achieve an earlier flowering, then when planting, dig holes closer to each other (70-80 cm), and after 2-3 years, thin out the bushes if necessary.

Landing pit

Depth - 36-45, width - 51-65 cm. Roots grow mainly in breadth, extending much further than the crown.

Planting depth

The root collar should be at the level of the soil, a maximum of 2-3 cm lower, otherwise the flower will develop poorly.

Step-by-step instructions for planting hydrangeas

1. Dig a hole to the correct size 15-30 days before planting.
2. Prepare potting mix and fill in the planting hole.
3. Dig a hole and place the seedling at the desired depth on the cone of the potting soil and spread the roots. Refill the hole gradually and compact the soil.
4. Water the bush with 8-12 liters of water and sprinkle with bark, sawdust or peat - 6-8 cm thick and 16-20 cm in diameter.
5. Protect the flower from direct sunlight during the day and strong winds.

When is the best time to plant hydrangea? Spring or Autumn?

Best planting time: spring - early May and autumn - September. At the same time, the most favorable period to plant hydrangea in cold climates is only spring, and in more southern regions it can be planted in spring and autumn.

Hydrangea care after planting

Preparing for flowering

For the first two years, cut the inflorescences at the bud stage (“pea”). And then the plant will direct all its forces to the development of the root system and the aerial part, which will ensure better flowering in subsequent years.

• Watering, feeding, pruning and preparing for winter - see the relevant sections.

Hydrangea garden care: growing secrets

Flower care consists of watering, fertilizing, pruning and preparing for winter. Spring is the best time to add mulch to the trunk circle for more moisture retention.Spread sawdust, peat, pine needles or chips 7-8 cm in a layer, with a diameter of 24-30 cm.

Top dressing

When planting hydrangeas in a soil mixture with fertilizers, you do not need to feed for the first two years. The general rule of dressing until July is acidic fertilizers (ammonium sulfate, potassium sulfate), and from July to October potassium-phosphorus fertilizers (bone meal, superphosphate).

The plant's nutrient requirements are high as it grows rapidly and blooms vigorously.

1. Complex food for growth. In the beginning - mid-May, feed with a complex mineral fertilizer - 25-35 grams per 10 liters of water. Or separately a tablespoon (15 grams) of urea + 25-30 grams of superphosphate (2 tablespoons) and a tablespoon (15 grams) of potassium sulfate.
   Mineral fertilizers can be supplemented with organic: infusion of mullein or bird droppings - 1:10. Repeat feeding after 13-16 days.
2. Potassium-phosphorus fertilizing for flowering. 12-16 days before flowering (beginning - mid-June), liquid fertilizing is carried out: dissolve 65-75 grams of superphosphate and 41-49 grams of potassium sulfate in water and pour over the bush.
3. During flowering. Repeat the previous feeding, at the time of mass flowering, to prolong it and ensure the establishment of new flower buds.

• For feeding, it is not recommended to use wood ash. Fertilizers work well for heather species and rhododendron.
• Avoid an excess of nitrogen, which leads to a decrease in winter hardiness, deterioration of flowering and promotes the development of rot. Use only in April - May.
• Important! An overabundance of fertilizers, especially organic ones (mullein, droppings) will do more harm than a lack.

Watering hydrangea

The flower is moisture-loving and needs regular watering. Drought is contraindicated; lack of sufficient moisture leads to developmental disruption.

In dry and hot weather, water every 7-8 days with 15-20 liters of water. The usual schedule is 15-25 liters of water every 13-16 days, and if it is rainy summer, then 4-5 times per season.

The lack of moisture in the fall reduces the winter hardiness of the plant, so if there is little rain in the fall, then additional watering is required.

Periodically add 2-3 grams of potassium permanganate to the water for irrigation to prevent the development of rot. Soft water works best for watering.

We recommend reading: "WATER FOR IRRIGATION OF PLANTS, WHICH IS BETTER?»

It is better to water in the morning or evening in the trunk circle, when there is no scorching sun. After each watering, it is advisable to loosen the soil 5-6 cm deep around the plant.

Pruning hydrangeas correctly: spring and fall

All species tolerate pruning well and need it, but each has its own characteristics. Pruning in the spring can only be carried out from 3-4 years of age. The most common types of hydrangeas in Russian gardens are divided into two groups according to the type of pruning.

Group No. 1 (large-leaved hydrangea (garden), prickly, serrate, oakleaf, Sargent and petiolate)

These species bloom on last year's shoots and need sanitary and cosmetic pruning. The optimal pruning time is as soon as the buds are a little swollen, there is no active movement of juices, plus such trimmed shoots can be rooted. Let's talk about the example of a garden hydrangea.

Large-leaved hydrangea (macrophile) cannot be cut off, but can only be rejuvenated. Every spring, prune every fourth branch over 3 years old, especially the one growing inward, so that the bush does not thicken, as well as dead, weak (thin) or broken stems at the root. Such pruning, in addition to giving a more decorative shape, improves flowering.

Spring pruning of garden hydrangea (large-leaved)

An exception: modern varieties from the series "Forever and ever", "You & Me", as well as varieties "MiniPenny", which bloom on the shoot of the first and previous years. They are pruned depending on the condition of the plant and the past wintering.

• Petiolate hydrangea is poorly pruned: long stems are shortened for better branching.

Group No. 2 (tree and paniculate)

These species blooming on young shoots (current season) are pruned every year before bud break. Best moment: mid to late March (as soon as the snow melts). An annual formative pruning is required, as if the flower thickens, the inflorescences will become smaller.

1. Hydrangea treelike wakes up first. Shoots are cut to 2-3 buds from the ground. On a powerful and mature bush, sometimes only one pair of buds is left. To form a decorative form of the bush, cut off the weak and growing inward shoots.
2. Panicle hydrangea needs more gentle pruning. Last year's shoots are shortened by a third.

Tips

• To thin out the bush, remove the old, weak and growing inward shoots completely annually.
• Cut off the frozen stems to the first living bud.

Bush rejuvenation

It is easy to rejuvenate an old bush with the help of special pruning: cut off all shoots at a height of 5-7 cm from ground level ("under the stump") or to the level of perennial wood. Next spring, young shoots will begin to grow, and the decorative effect of the bush will be restored.

Should I prune my hydrangea for the winter?

In the fall, the faded inflorescences are cut off at the hydrangea without fail, so that the branches do not break under the weight of the snow.

Stamp form

Paniculata hydrangea can be grown in the form of a tree - a low bole. Choose one of the most developed shoot on a two-year-old plant grown from an apical cut, and cut off the rest. Then cut this shoot to the strongest bud every year in the spring, until it reaches 100 cm in height.

To form a crown in the following years, pinch the top of the shoot, and remove the new shoots completely. In the future, weak shoots are cut off annually and only 4-5 strongest branches are left for bushiness.

An example of a standard form of hydrangea paniculata

Hydrangea care in the fall and preparation for winter

After flowering, care for hydrangea in the fall consists in removing faded inflorescences and preparing for winter.

• Treelike hydrangea can not be covered for the winter, mulching is enough - it has high winter hardiness.
• In the conditions of the Middle Belt, Moscow Region, North-West, the Urals and Siberia, be sure to cover the hydrangea for the winter, and it is better to dig up the large-leaved hydrangea, transplant it into pots and bring it into the house.
  Since this species can be grown in areas where the temperature in winter is not lower than -23.5 ° C. The exception is some modern winter-hardy varieties mentioned in the "pruning" section.
• In more southern and warmer areas, hilling and mulching can be dispensed with.

Preparing for winter and sheltering hydrangeas

Inflorescences appear on last year's shoots (large-leaved hydrangea), and the goal is to completely preserve them from frost and damping off.

Since the leaves and flowers of large-leaved hydrangea die from small frosts at night, preparations for winter begin in mid - late October (after the first frost).

• Hydrangea garden paniculate and large-leaved must be covered for the winter.

1. To do this, they spud a bush with earth, and the trunk circle is mulched with rotted manure, needles or peat.
2. Then the stems are bent to the soil and covered with sawdust, spruce branches or dry leaves. And on top of the bush they put a box (box).
3. After the end of the spring frost (April), the winter shelter is dismantled and pruned.
4. It is better to carefully tie a large bush and make a frame shelter ("hut") above it by 8-12 cm and pour dry foliage inside it.

Preparing hydrangeas for winterShelter hydrangea for the winterTop layer of winter shelter for hydrangea

In case of short-term frosts, it is convenient to cover with lutrasil, white burlap or a double layer of film.

Shelter of a large-leaved hydrangea for the winter from a gardener from the Moscow region

1. In the fall, before the arrival of night frosts, cut off all the leaves from the bush. If you leave them, the flower will start to rot. Leave only flower buds at the tips of the branches, with a maximum of two leaves protecting them.
2. Tie all branches on the bush, 3-4 pieces of approximately the same size, into separate bundles with elastic material (elastic, tights, strips of fabric).
3. Bend the bundles as low as possible to the soil and secure with metal staples (electrodes, thick wire). It is necessary to bend the hydrangea to the ground carefully so as not to damage the shoots. In some varieties, they are very lignified and it is better to bend them down gradually, starting with a slight slope.
4. Before the cold weather begins (mid-November), cover the hydrangea with any non-woven material (burlap, agrofibre).
5. Before the onset of severe frosts, remove the cover and cover the flower with dry peat, compost or leafy soil. The base of the bush is less afraid of frost than the fragile tips of the shoots, so it is sprinkled quite a bit.
6. Place arcs over the plant and stretch the covering material again, and put a piece of film on top so that the ends remain open and there is no high humidity inside the winter shelter.

Shelter for the winter of a young hydrangea

Young seedlings are not cut off, but simply brought into the house in pots for the winter or covered with earth and additionally covered with a layer of peat, dry foliage, needles or sawdust for the winter.

When can you open a hydrangea after winter?

In the spring, you need to remove the winter shelter from the hydrangea at the right time to prevent the shoots from drying out.

1. In mid-March, remove the film and covering material, scoop up the peat or soil and cover again with burlap.
2. In early April, when the night frosts end and a stable heat comes, remove the cover from the large-leaved hydrangea completely.

The approximate dates for the Moscow region are indicated.

Hydrangea winter hardiness

Now the large-leaved hydrangea is increasingly grown in the conditions of central Russia and in the Moscow region, in the Urals and Siberia. However, not all winter-hardy varieties are able to bloom in any area due to the different microclimate.

The plant can withstand up to -23 ° C, and the most winter-hardy are treelike, paniculate and ground cover hydrangeas.

The winter hardiness of a plant increases if it received a sufficient amount of water in the fall, as well as potassium-phosphorus fertilization.

Diseases and pests

Hydrangea is very resistant to diseases and pests, but sometimes it is still affected by powdery mildew, spider mites and aphids (more often in greenhouses).

1. HOW TO FIGHT MEALY DEW? INSTRUCTIONS, MEANS AND FUNGICIDES.
2. HOW TO FIGHT AHEADS? FIGHT RULES AND BEST DRUGS!

Why doesn't hydrangea bloom in the garden? What to do?

We will list the most common reasons for not blooming.

1. Deficiency or excess of nutrients, especially nitrogen. With excessive feeding, especially with organic fertilizers, flowering is very difficult to achieve. Apply nitrogen only during active vegetation (April - May).
2. Improper pruning or winterization. The plant blooms on last year's shoots (upper buds). They often suffer from winter chills and are sometimes removed if over-pruned. If you have a large-leaved hydrangea, then read how to properly prune it - the "Pruning" section.
3. Excessive direct sunlight. Diffused light is ideal for hydrangea, but if it grows in a sunny place without shading in the midday heat, then flowering worsens and shortens.

How to speed up hydrangea flowering?

To make the bush bloom faster, sprinkle it as soon as the inflorescences become 2-4 cm in diameter twice with an interval of 5-7 days with gibberellins - 50 mg / liter of water. This treatment allows you to bloom 2-4 weeks earlier and get more massive and decorative flowering.

How to change the color of hydrangea flowers?

The flowers of the plant can change their color depending on the acidity of the soil and the ability to accumulate aluminum.

Water the bush with a solution of potassium alum (100 g / 10 liters of water). To change the color, you need to spend 3-4 waterings every 12-15 days. Therefore, watering begins 50-70 days before flowering.

After that, the white or pink flowers (slightly alkaline soil) will turn blue or blue, depending on the concentration. At the same time, alum reduces acidity, so you need to use them carefully. The price of 100 g of alum is about 30-50 rubles.

Helpful Tips for Hydrangea Care

• If you want to dry hydrangea inflorescences for the winter, then cut them off immediately after all the flowers bloom. Tie in small bunches and hang flowers down in a dark place to dry.
• Hydrangea can be grown at home as a pot culture. In the fall, it sheds its leaves, for the winter it is cut off and transferred to a cool place (+ 4-6), and in late February - early March, it is placed in a bright and warm place without direct sunlight. In summer, the flower can be taken out into the open air and left until September.
• Experts advise planting ground cover species in the near-trunk circle: stonecrops, bryophyte saxifrage and others.

ADDITIONS TO THE ARTICLE:

1. REPRODUCTION OF GARDEN HORTENSIA: ALL WAYS!

2. TYPES AND THE BEST VARIETIES OF HORTENSIA WITH PHOTOS AND TITLES!

We wish flowers to cheer you up and make you a little happier!