Currant planting and care in the open field in the Leningrad region

Description and varieties

Currant is a berry shrub from the gooseberry family, of medium height (20-40 cm) with characteristic leaves. The currant belongs to a fast-growing shrub and begins to bear fruit one year after planting.

Its life span is 20 years for red currants, 15 years for black currants, however, the shrub is able to multiply rapidly. The main types of currants are black and red, which differ in the color of the berries and the characteristic smell inherent in black currants, due to the content of essential oils in it. However, there are other varieties: yellow currant, bred on the American continent, white currant and many crossed species.

Breeders have bred up to 700 species of various varieties of berries that are resistant to pests and diseases, resistance to powdery mildew, spotting, spring frost resistance and increased productivity, which allows it to be cultivated in various regions of the Russian Federation.

Currant, has a lot of useful qualities, which determines the use of the berry itself, its leaves, twigs for:

1. Improving the elasticity of the vascular system.
2. Reducing the concentration of sugar in the blood.
3. Treatment of dermatitis and eye diseases.
4. Therapy for atherosclerosis, lowering blood pressure; increasing the strength of the capillaries of the circulatory system.
5. Treating sore throats and coughs.
6. Therapy for colds and infectious diseases.
7. Treatment of inflammation in the urinary tract area and as a diuretic.

How to properly plant currants in the open field

In general, the shrub is quite unpretentious to growing conditions, however, in order to obtain a high yield with the best vitamin and nutritional characteristics, a number of rules must be observed.

The shrub is sensitive to the water-air regime of growth, since the length of its roots, up to 50 cm, is located in the upper layer of the soil and cannot consume moisture from the deep layers of the soil. This must be taken into account when choosing a site for planting, since too wet soil is a hazard, and too dry requires frequent watering.

1. Site selection and soil preparation

The best conditions for growing currants are considered to be a well-lit area of ​​soil, representing a lowland, slope or hill with an average degree of moisture. The degree of illumination is determined by a measure of how long during the day the currants are exposed to direct sunlight.

The duration of the illumination of the shrub by the sun's rays should be at least half a day for black currants; for red - at least 2/3 of the day.

The measure of the moisture content of the site is assessed by the level of groundwater in a nearby well, which should not be higher than 0.5-1 m. The requirements for the acidity of the soil are also clearly regulated; soils of a neutral and slightly acidic reaction are chosen for it. It is best to place currants in a place of some elevation of the relief, containing up to 0.5 m of a fertile layer with protection from both direct exposure to wind currents and from stagnant air.

2. Timing of boarding

The shrub can be planted in the spring from the onset of warmth to the period of bud opening with cuttings or grown cuttings and in autumn in September-October. The autumn method of planting is considered the best, since when using it, the best conditions are created for plant survival and exit from the beginning of spring into the phase of rapid development.

3. Treatment and preparation of soil

It is better to plant shrubs with a distance of 1 m from neighboring bushes and at a distance of 1.5-2 m and 3-4 m from other shrubs and fruit trees. The required number of shrubs for planting is determined from the condition that, with normal care, currants give from 2 to 3 kg per bush.

4. Soil for currants and fertilizers

As a planting material, it is better to choose seedlings 15-20 cm long with a well-branched root system, no signs of pests and diseases. The dimensions of the pit for planting are 40 * 40 * 40 cm, it is better to dig up the pit either a few weeks before planting or in the fall of the previous year to create the necessary soil sediment.

It is necessary to prepare two layers of soil for planting a bush:

1. The first consists of soil dug out of a pit, mixed with peat, compost or fertilizers with the addition of small doses of mineral additives and has a high biological value; serves to feed the roots, located below them in level.
2. The second one also consists of a fertile layer of soil removed from the pit without fertilizers.

5. The process of planting in open ground

The shrub, holding with one hand, is placed over the first layer of soil, so that the roots feel free. Further, sprinkle with a second layer of soil, given that the bush should protrude above the surface. The planted bush is watered abundantly with water, even if planting is done on a rainy day.

Around the planted bush, a near-stem circle is formed, with a diameter of 40-50 cm, a layer of mulch, peat or sawdust is applied, without affecting the planting itself.

After planting, the currant bush is pruned to a level of 7 cm above the ground. This measure is necessary to bring the aboveground part of the plant into conformity with the root system.

Currant care 1. Watering

The shrub is characterized by a fairly high moisture consumption, for which it competes, spending the energy necessary to form the crop. For adult bushes, the maximum moisture consumption occurs during the growth of shoots, during the period of berry formation (June) and after harvesting to store moisture for the formation of the next harvest (September).

It is important to provide a sufficient amount of moisture during this period, since otherwise the berries will be small, and unripe berries will shatter.

To reduce the effect of drought periods on currants, it is necessary to maintain it by watering with 1.5-2 buckets of water per bush. It is also necessary to carry out measures to retain moisture in the soil, for which a layer of mulch, up to 10 cm thick, consisting of fallen leaves, weeds, finely chopped thin twigs, is introduced around the circumference under the shrub.

2. Top dressing

In the case of correct planting of the shrub, fertilizing in the form of fertilizers is not required for several years.Further nutrition is carried out by introducing 4-5 kg ​​of fertilizers or peat and 40 g of mineral fertilizers of a complex composition, superphosphate (100-150 g) and calcium chloride (30-40 g) under a bush in early spring or autumn before loosening.

In the absence of plant nutrition, the berries become small over time and contain fewer nutrients.

3. Pruning currants

The best time for pruning a shrub is considered to be the period of late autumn, after leaf fall, when sick and damaged shoots are clearly visible. Carrying out pruning for currant bushes begins with the removal of old and damaged shoots at ground level with a covering with a special decoction.

The next step in pruning is to remove young, poorly developed or disease-damaged branches. Further, the shrub is diluted by removing from 15 to 30% of shoots of various ages to direct moisture and nutrients not to the growth of young branches, but to the formation of a crop on mature cuttings. Ideally, after pruning, the bush should represent 12-15 healthy shoots of various ages.

When pruning, it must be borne in mind that excessive spreading of the bush is inconvenient and causes contamination of the berries during bad weather. To give the plantation a well-groomed and cultured look, props are made, trellises and stretched twine are used. However, the "matched" bush should not be overly tightened to exclude damage to the branches and disruption of sap flow.

4. Transplant

The transplant is carried out in cases of the need to rejuvenate the currant, the lack of necessary nutrients at the site of the previous growth for the growth and development of the plantation, the need to plant rooted young shoots, cuttings or cuttings. The rules for making a transplant in terms of time, choice of soil, watering and feeding do not differ from performing a normal planting.

5. Diseases and pests

1. American powdery mildew, which poses a danger to young leaves and shoots of black currant, manifests itself in the appearance of white blooms on their surface, the leaves weaken, darken and deform. Treatment is carried out by removing and burning the affected leaves and shoots and applying autumn Topaz.
2. Anthracosis, septoriasis, are two types of a disease caused by the action of a fungus, as a result of which spots of dark and brown colors are formed on the surface of the leaves, which later turn into a brown shade. The affected shrub is more susceptible to frost, is characterized by a decrease in yield and early leaf fall. Treatment is carried out by removing the leaves with embedding in the soil, the plant before bud break, before and after flowering, it is recommended to treat with preparations based on copper.
3. Terry, manifests itself in the deformation of young leaves, their acquisition of an elongated shape with a further deterioration in the appearance of flowers, the appearance of terry and the death of a shrub. The affected shrub must be dug up and burned.
4. A kidney mite manifests itself in a strong swelling of the buds, which, together with the adjacent branches, are removed and burned before the shrub leaves the budding stage. The remaining bush before and immediately after flowering is sprayed with Aktellik, if there is no effect, the bush must be dug up and burned.
5. Glass currant damages currant branches, which outwardly manifests itself in their lethargy, drying out and their increased fragility. It is possible to diagnose damage to the currant by the glass by examining the cross-section of the branch. In case of damage, there are quite wide passages-voids of a dark color on it. After the detection of the disease, all affected shoots are removed and burned, after flowering, the shrub is processed by Aktellik.
6. The gooseberry shoot aphid is manifested in the fact that aphid larvae born during the period of bud swelling attack young shoots and leaves, sucking out juices from them. Aphid damage leads to a change in the shape of the leaves, increasing the risk of damage during wintering by cold. For the treatment of the disease, the shrub is treated with Aktellik during bud break.
7. The red-headed aphid is expressed in the appearance of leaf swelling on the affected areas. The fight against aphids consists in processing the currants with Aktellik before the budding period, after flowering and in August-September.

Seasonal care and landing

Caring for shrubs includes periodically loosening the root area throughout the season. Insecticides, manual weeding and mulching are used to control weeds. Weed control is carried out twice a year in the fall, after harvest, or in the spring along with fertilization. Loosening is carried out to a depth of 8-10 cm using a pitchfork, shovel or hoe.

During the growing season, it is necessary to closely monitor budding, where a sign of their defeat by a mite will be their swelling, but the absence of disclosure. If more than 3 buds are damaged by a pest, the entire branch is removed. During the season, it is necessary to spray the shrub 2-3 times with a 1-2% solution of Bordeaux liquid or copper sulfate.

Reproduction

Using cuttings, which are prepared as follows. A shrub shoot with a thickness of more than 7 mm and a length of 20 cm, containing at least 4-6 buds on its body, is cut off from both sides. The lower cut is made at an angle of 45 °, the upper one should have a right angle, then the cutting is sent to a container of water overnight.

Then the cuttings are planted in the soil with a distance of 10-15 cm between them, so that at least 3-4 buds remain above the ground. The soil around the planted cutting is watered, compacted and mulched with peat or compost to a depth of 4-5 cm. This method of shrub propagation is well suited for the formation of hedges.

With the help of horizontal layering performed in the spring, during the ripeness of the soil. The soil near the plantation should be loose and provided with fertilizers. Young, healthy branches of currants are buried in pre-prepared grooves 5-7 cm deep.

The young vertical shoots that appeared after a while, 6-8 cm high from the ground level, are loosened and spud with a mixture of earth with humus, with a frequency of 2-3 weeks. In the fall, the rooted cuttings are transplanted, carefully separated from the planting and transplanted.

Answers to frequently asked questions

1. When placing currants in place with a predecessor from vegetable, flower plants, the planting will be provided with nutrients for a sufficiently long time and will bear fruit better, since it will be located on unexhausted soils.
2. It is not recommended to plant a shrub on the site of a previous cultivation of gooseberries or currants, since the soils can get tired of monoculture and accumulate toxins in several years.
3. For more active pollination of currants with insects, it is recommended to spray during the flowering period with a solution of 1 liter of water from 1 tbsp. l honey.
4. It is recommended to plant currants in groups of bushes next to each other, rather than individual bushes, since in the first case, better pollination of the bushes is ensured, which increases their fertility.

Great yield of black currants thanks to proper planting and care

Black currant is one of the favorite berries of gardeners. The secret of popularity: in the natural richness of vitamins and the undemanding culture of the growing conditions. Caring for black currants has its own characteristics, but it will not cause any particular difficulties if you choose and prepare a place for planting correctly, as well as cut and process the crop from parasites and fungal diseases in time.

Currant - planting and care in the country

Currants are planted in early spring or mid-autumn.Planting currants in the fall is preferable, since in the spring it is necessary to have time before sap flow begins and the buds bloom, while the soil may not have time to warm up enough and the plant will die.

A sunny place, protected from the wind with a well-drained non-acidic soil (pH value 6-6.5), is chosen for the currants. Fertile light loamy soil is ideal. To reduce the acidity of the earth, add up to 1 kg of lime, chalk or dolomite flour per 1 sq. m.

Deacidification of land for planting currants with dolomite flour

Propagate currants using cuttings or dividing the bush, by separating large shoots with roots from the main trunk. Cultivation of black currants will be successful if you choose biennial seedlings up to 40 cm high, with 3-5 skeletal branches at least 20 cm long, they take root best. Consider how the planting of currants is carried out in stages.

Soil preparation

The selected area is leveled 14 days before planting the seedlings, the rhizomes of the weeds are removed and the soil is left to shrink. After 2 weeks, the site is divided into circles with a diameter of 50-60 cm, which are dug to a depth of 40 cm.The distance between them is maintained at 1.5-2 m, when planting in rows - up to 3 m.

Three-quarters of the pit is covered with a bucket of compost or other organic matter. Add 200 g of superphosphate, 60 g of potassium sulfate or 40 g of wood ash. A little black soil is poured on top of the fertilizers so that their concentration does not burn the roots, and then planting is carried out.

Planting black currant

The seedling is planted at an angle of 45 degrees, placing the root collar at a depth of 5 cm. This promotes the growth of basal buds and the further development of a powerful root system. If you plant a seedling directly, then the bush will be formed with a single stem.

Planting scheme for currant seedlings

Planting currants ends with watering 5 liters per hole and another 5 liters on a circular hole around it. After watering, it is necessary to loosen the soil: up to 8 cm in depth - directly under the plant, at a distance of 20 cm from it - up to 12 cm. Then the soil is sprinkled with fine peat or humus.

After completing the planting procedure, the seedling is cut at a height of 15 cm from the ground, leaving up to 5 buds on it. The cut branches can be stuck next to the main shoot, sprinkled with water with the addition of Kornevin and covered with a film or plastic container for rooting and engraftment. Pruning stimulates vigorous plant growth.

Scheme of cutting currant seedlings after planting

Planting currants in summer video

If the seedlings were not prepared in advance, it is possible to plant black currants in the summer. Most often this is necessary when propagating currants by layering in your garden. This planting is also called sedimentation or simply breeding. It is performed after the end of fruiting: for early varieties - in July, and for late varieties - in mid and late August.

Black currant: growing and care

In order for berry bushes to develop well and bear fruit, it is necessary to provide proper care for black currants throughout the growing season.

Spring care for black currant

Before the appearance of buds, all old, dried or diseased branches are cut to a healthy stem, the wounds are covered with garden var. Nitrogen fertilizers are applied (up to 80 g of ammonium nitrate or 50 g of urea per plant) for two-year-old bushes. After feeding, the soil is dug up and watered.

Sanitary currant pruning

At the time of the formation of the ovary until the beginning of June, watering is carried out at the rate of up to 30 liters of water per bush, every 5 days. This is done in the evening using warm water (10-15 degrees Celsius), at the root. For watering, it is recommended to make circular grooves 15 cm deep at a distance of 30 cm from the seedling. Water ingress on leaves can lead to the development of powdery mildew.

Watering a young currant bush in spring

To improve the moisture resistance of the soil, mulching is desirable. You can use peat, straw or newspaper.It is important to do this during the green cone and bud formation phase to prevent moisture loss.

Summer currant care

In the first half of June, organic feeding should be carried out: up to 15 kg of humus per 1 bush, or liquid feeding (bird droppings diluted with water 1:10).

When there is no rain for a long time, timely watering is especially necessary. Usually a bucket of water a week is enough. Watering currants in summer becomes more frequent from late June to mid-July during the ripening of berries, and is done every 5 days.

Currant care in June also includes pinching the young stems of the tops by 2 buds to increase the number of side shoots. This procedure promotes the development of new shoots. The timing of the pinching is postponed to a later date in order to delay the fruiting of the bush.

During the ripening of the fruits, foliar dressing is applied: mixing 5 g of potassium permanganate, 40 g of ferrous sulfate and 3 g of boric acid. Dissolve them separately, and then mix together in a 10 L bucket of water. Spraying is carried out in the evening or on a cloudy, windless day.

Spraying and caring for currants in summer

After fertilizing or watering, it is recommended to remove weeds and gently loosen the soil up to 5 cm so as not to touch the root system of the plant located at a depth of 30 cm.The row spacing is loosened to a depth of 10 cm.

Harvesting berries must be done by the piece, and not plucked in a bunch. This is less likely to damage the plant. Watering and fertilization is completely stopped two to three weeks before harvest.

Care for currant bushes in autumn

After completing the harvest, starting in mid-August and throughout September, watering is carried out once a week, with loosening the soil to a depth of 5 cm. In dry autumn, preparation for winter includes increased soil moisture - half a meter deep.

At the end of September, organic matter (4-6 kg of poultry droppings) must be introduced, or fed with minerals: 20 g of potassium sulfate and 50 g of superphosphate. In any case, when fertilizing, add 200 g of wood ash. After that, the soil is dug up and mulched to increase fruiting for the next year.

Feeding currant bushes with organic matter

Before the onset of the first frost, it is necessary to prune underdeveloped and weak shoots, as well as those that grow in the middle of the bush and thicken it. Poorly developed young branches are also subject to removal, of which only 3-4 of the strongest are left. An adult bush usually consists of 15 shoots from different years of life.

Diseases and pests: prevention and treatment

With proper care, currants rarely get sick, there are such diseases: terry, anthracnose, gray rot, powdery mildew. Of the parasites, the kidney and spider mites, fruit sawfly, glass, and moth are dangerous for her.

Moth caterpillars on currant leaf

To protect the plant from diseases, preventive measures are used. In the spring, before the buds awaken, the bushes are watered with hot water at a temperature of plus 80 degrees. Celsius, at the rate of 3 liters per 1 plant for treatment against pests and diseases. They also carry out timely sanitary pruning of the bushes in order to prevent thickening and regularly dig up the soil to destroy pests.

Also, until the spring swelling of the buds, the currants and the soil under it are treated every 10 days. To do this, use a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid, 2% solution of Nitrafen or Karbofos. These drugs are also used when signs of diseases or parasites are detected, in which case caring for black currants in summer includes spraying 3 weeks before picking berries. This will help protect the crop from septoria, brown spot, glassfly and aphids.

During flowering and the appearance of the first leaves, additional treatment with fungicides is necessary: ​​Alirin-B, Gamair, Prognoz, Topaz, Glycoladin - from rust and anthracnose.

You can read about how to get rid of a kidney mite on currants in our article.

Preparing currants for winter

Proper care of black currants includes preparing for winter. The soil under the bushes is weeded and the fallen leaves are removed.

Scheme of strapping a currant bush for the winter

After the onset of the first frost, the bush is pulled together in a spiral upward with a rope, clamping it at the top with a clothespin. The ground is covered with mulch. After a large amount of precipitation falls at the base of the bush, a snow pillow 10 cm high is made, and then the bush is completely covered with snow.

Outcome

Growing currants on the site will only bring pleasure, since the culture is not demanding and bears fruit perfectly. Carefully monitor the behavior of the plant so that you always know what it needs, do not forget about timely watering, fertilizing and preventive treatments. Then the black currant, which is taken care of according to all the rules, will thank you with a magnificent harvest and a large berry.

Currants are good for everyone: they are beautiful, tasty and do not require special care. Know yourself, remove the weeds, and put the berries in your mouth. For which gardeners love it, growing almost everywhere, from the Kuban to Siberia. But, you can significantly increase the yield, provide yourself with berries, and sell the surplus. True, for this it is necessary to select suitable varieties, and strictly observe agricultural technology. Read our article and find out how to surprise yourself and your neighbors with rich currant crops.

There is a rule: "To fix something, you need to know how it works." This also applies to the cultivation of currants: in order to achieve high yields, you need to know the biological characteristics of the plant. There are three types of currants:

• black;
• red;
• golden.

The species are similar in principles of agricultural technology and biological characteristics. As part of the article, we will consider black currants, and we will tell you the nuances of growing red as necessary.

Biological features of currants

Currant is a perennial shrub, the height of which does not exceed 1.5-2 m. A feature of the plant is the absence of buds on the roots.

Take a look at the image. The growth of basal shoots (1) begins from the zone of the root collar (6). It is in this way that a currant bush is formed, because it does not give growth. The next year, after the emergence of zero-order shoots, two-year branches appear (2), then three-year branches (3).

This feature of the currant must be taken into account when planting a bush.

Root collar

should be about 10 cm below the soil surface.

In this case, many shoots of the zero order appear, the bush is easier to form, and over time it is possible to rejuvenate without problems. Most gardeners do not know about this, and many Internet resources do not provide such information. Meanwhile, the correct location of the root collar of the bush is the key to the strength of the plant and a bountiful harvest.

Features of the development of stems

Currants differ in the nature of the development of the stem. Conventionally, the plant can be divided into three groups:

1. Many annual branches, but few perennial ones. In the currants of this group, the fruits live for a year or two, then they die, and new ones are formed in their place. After 4-5 years, new fruit branches stop forming and yield decreases. The situation can be corrected by pruning branches older than 4 years "per ring". The most famous black currant of this species is September Daniel.
2. There are few basal shoots, but perennial stems branch well. Fruits on such bushes live for a long time, on average 4-5 years, therefore the bush bears fruit for 6-7 years. If the branch is older, the fruits on it become smaller, the yield decreases. The solution to the problem is the annual cutting of 2-3 perennial branches. This stimulates the growth and development of basal shoots, the bush is renewed in a timely manner, the yield does not decrease. A variety of this type is Pamyat Michurin.
3. In this group, the varieties occupying an average "position" between the previous ones. In other words, both the number of basal shoots and the degree of their branching have an average value. The fruiting period is 5-6 years.It can be increased by shortening the branches to the first strong bud. One of these varieties is Success.

In the picture you can see how fruits are formed on branches of different ages in black currant.

As for the red currant, it has more durable fruits. Subject to agricultural technology, red currants give a greater yield than black currants for 8-10 years. Pruning is mainly aimed not at rejuvenating the bush, but at reducing the degree of thickening.

Currant morphogenesis

If you are scared and decide to quickly scroll through this item - we hasten to reassure you. We will not tell you all the biological subtleties. But knowing the timing of the morphogenesis of currants and what it affects will help to take the necessary measures in a timely manner to increase yields.

Scientists have found that the process of laying a crop begins a year before fruiting. This year, the yield will depend on how the currant developed in the last season. And it is morphogenesis (kidney differentiation) that is the most important stage. The timing of the process is different, depending on the following factors:

• type and variety of currants;
• air temperature;
• the amount of precipitation;
• the number of sunny and cloudy days;
• other conditions.

It was found that in dry and sunny weather, morphogenesis proceeds faster than in cloudy and rainy ones. In terms of timing, we can only say for sure that the beginning of kidney differentiation is from July 12, and the end is in the spring of next year. In some years, morphogenesis can begin in early August.

Surprisingly, it is during this period that most inexperienced gardeners calm down, and limit themselves only to weeding and waiting for the harvest. Meanwhile, efforts must be redoubled and the observance of agricultural practices must be monitored.

Currant bushes should receive the required amount of nutrients, water, light. It is necessary to pay attention to the condition of the leaves. Disease-damaged or underdeveloped leaves do not provide high-quality photosynthesis. The significance of this process for plant life is known from the school course in biology.

Different types of currants

Check out the main modern currant varieties of different types. You can enlarge the photo by clicking and view everything in more detail. The varieties listed below are approved by VNIISPK and zoned.

Smolyaninovskaya currant

One of the few modern varieties that have white fruits. As a result of selection, scientists have obtained a shrub that not only possesses such unusual berries, but also has a high resistance to diseases.

The Smolyaninovskaya variety is easy to care for, it is not afraid of frost, the berries are juicy, with a characteristic sourness. At the same time, a good yield was achieved: if you follow agricultural techniques, then you will receive up to 5 kg of harvest from one bush! It is possible to grow this variety in open ground in the Urals, the Volga region and in the central regions of Russia.

Currant varieties Karaidel

The variety is intended for cultivation in the Urals, but is also suitable for other regions of Russia. The bush is compact, it is not difficult to care for it. Of the amenities - a low degree of infection by fungal diseases, winter hardiness.

The berries are large enough, fragrant, with dense pulp. There are few seeds, you can safely use it for making jams. The only drawback is that it requires regular pruning due to the strong growth of basal shoots.

Dutch red currant

One of the oldest currant varieties. It is known that it was grown in Europe as early as the 17th century. The currant bush is high, the crown density is increased, but at the same time not very spreading. Fruits are dense, with a characteristic sour taste. The seeds are dense, large, therefore the main purpose of the variety is processing and conservation.

Dutch red currant has excellent resistance to fungal diseases. The plant is suitable for growing outdoors in the North-Western regions of Russia, but it does not take root well in the Urals or Kuban.

Currant Krasa Altai

Are you looking for a variety of currants that can be grown outdoors in the Urals and Siberia? Pay attention to the Beauty of Altai. The plant is susceptible to powdery mildew and some pests, but, with timely preventive treatments, it will delight you with yield.

The variety perfectly tolerates severe frosts, self-pollinates. A pleasant addition - the berries are firmly adhered to the branches and, after ripening, do not crumble. At the same time, the taste of currants is pleasant, with a slight sourness. Suitable for food both fresh and for preservation.

Currant Ural beauty

Despite the fact that the variety is zoned for Western Siberia, it is successfully grown in the Urals, in the Moscow region and in other regions of Russia. The variety attracts gardeners with its high yield and large, sweet berries. The Ural beauty tolerates severe frosts well, and the medium-sized bush facilitates the process of caring for the plant.

Among the shortcomings, one can single out a weak resistance to some pests. You can fight them, and successfully. Subject to the recommended agricultural practices, the variety will delight you with regular and abundant harvests.

We have described for you only some of the modern varieties of currants. If you are interested in earlier breeding, which were cultivated in the USSR, see the table.

Belarusian sweet	Average	Black, large, weighing 1-1.2 g	High	2.5-3 kg / bush
Grape	Early	Black, large, weight 1.3 g	Excellent	3-6 kg / bush
Leningrad giant	Average	Black, with a thin skin, weighing 1.2-2.2 g	Good	3-5 kg ​​/ bush
Stakhanovka Altai	Average	Black, dull, do not crumble, weight 0.7-0.9 g	High	1.5-3 kg / bush
Chulkovskaya	Early	Red, small, weighing 0.4 g	Average	4-6 kg / bush
Sugar red	Early	Juicy, sweet, weighing up to 1 g	High	4 kg / bush
Versailles white	Average	Yellow, transparent, large, weight up to 1.5 g.	Average	3-4 kg / bush

Remember that you need to buy currant seedlings of any kind in nurseries. Buying at the market or from a "familiar gardener" is fraught with unpleasant consequences. The fact is that some pathogens and parasites of currants have an incubation period of 1-2 years. Outwardly, the seedling may look healthy, but after a while the disease will manifest itself. When buying planting material in nurseries, there is no such risk.

Currant planting rules

The yield of any kind of currant depends on the conditions in which it grows. The landing site must meet the following requirements:

• the site is flat, or a small slope (no more than 50);
• planting on hills or depressions is not recommended: in the first case, the plant will suffer from cold wind, in the second - from the accumulation of cold air;
• any soil, but their acidity is not lower than 4.5 pH;
• the depth of the groundwater is at least 1 m.

Having found a suitable place, proceed to the next stage. Remove all weeds, apply fertilizer to the soil according to the following scheme:

• manure or compost - a bucket per square meter;
• lime - 2-6 kg / m2 (dosage depends on the pH level);
• superphosphate - 500-700 g / 10 m2;
• potash salt - 200 g / 10 m2.

After fertilizing, dig up the soil onto the bayonet of the shovel. Remember that soil preparation should be done approximately 2 months before planting.

The size of the planting holes depends on the quality of the soil. The optimal values ​​are 40x40 cm, if the land is scarce in nutrients - do not be lazy and dig large holes. The currant will thank you with enhanced growth and high yields.

You can see the layout schemes in the table.

Single	1	1,8-2
Tape	0,6-0,8	2

The belt scheme has an advantage over the single one: already in the first years, the yield increases significantly. The disadvantage of this method is that fungi and viruses are actively developing in a thickened environment, which requires additional care. The choice of the currant planting scheme is up to you.

Plants can be planted in autumn, but the best survival rate is obtained with spring planting. The seedlings need to be prepared. How to do it?

Cuttings must be kept in water at a temperature of 460C for 13-15 minutes. The purpose of this procedure is to kill the currant kidney mite. Be careful about the water temperature, lower values ​​will not give the desired result, higher ones will ruin the cuttings.

Purchased seedlings need to be pruned, if this was not done in the nursery. Leave 3-4 buds on the branches, remove the rest. This activity stimulates the development of the bush in the first years of life. See the photo for an example, the branches to be removed are marked in red.

Now you can start planting currants. Make a soil mixture using the following recipe:

• a bucket of soil;
• humus bucket;
• 200 g of phosphate fertilizers;
• 40 g of potassium preparations.

Mix well and pour on the bottom of the planting hole. To protect the roots of currants from burns with fertilizers - make a small mound of clean earth on top of the mixture. As a result, you should have a mound at the bottom of the hole.

Now you can proceed directly to planting:

1. Pour a bucket of water into each well to form a liquid mud.
2. Place the seedlings. An important condition: they should be located at an angle, and the root collar is 8-10 cm below the soil surface. This planting stimulates the rapid development of basal shoots. We wrote about this at the beginning of the article. If your site has loamy soils, then the depth of the root collar should be no more than 5 cm.
3. Spread the roots, make sure that they do not bend upwards, this will worsen the survival rate.
4. Fill in the soil and compact it so that there are no voids around the roots. At this stage, it is important not to overdo it, so control yourself. Just tug lightly on the seedling: it should not be pulled out, but also not "sit" firmly in the ground.

Water the plant well for the first 5 days after planting. The norm is 3-5 liters per bush. If the weather is rainy, there is no need to water.

Outdoor currant care

Pay special attention to weed control, they must be removed regularly. For the development of beneficial soil microorganisms, loosening must be carried out. Do this carefully so as not to damage the roots. The depth of loosening at a distance of 30 cm from the bush is 4-6 cm, further 30 cm - up to 12 cm. This technique, in addition, will not allow weeds to multiply. In the early years, you can grow lettuce or dill between rows.

Don't forget about mulching. It will help to retain moisture, protect against weeds, and increase yields. Use humus, peat, foliage, or plastic wrap. The width of the mulched circle in the first years of the life of the currant is 50-70 cm, later - 1.25 m. The thickness of the mulch is 4-5 cm.

As for watering, it is necessary during dry periods, during the growth of the bush, and after harvesting. The norm is 30 l / m2. Remember, if the year is rainy, you do not need to water the currants.

Fertilizers and fertilizers for currants

Do you want to increase the yield of currants by 30%, or even 50%? This is possible if fertilizers and fertilizing are applied correctly. In the first year, if you planted the plant according to the rules, the seedlings do not need to be fertilized. Enough application of urea, in a concentration of 0.3% - this will improve the development of the seedling in the growth phase.

Starting from the second year of the currant's life, begin to apply fertilizers. Remember that in early summer, the plant requires nitrogen fertilization to stimulate leaf growth and increase ovary formation. Towards the end of summer, especially after harvest, when morphogenesis is most active, the currants need potash fertilizers. For drugs and their dosage, see the table.

1-3 years	Ammonium nitrate	100-100
	Superphosphate	200-300
	Potassium nitrate	100-150
4 years and older	Ammonium nitrate	200-400
	Superphosphate	300-600
	Potassium nitrate	150-300

Ammonium nitrate is a nitrogen fertilizer, superphosphate is a phosphorus fertilizer. This information will help you determine when to apply. These substances can be added both in dry form and in solutions; the method will not affect the effectiveness.

Important:

Try not to use potassium salts: currants react badly to them.For red currants, it is generally better to replace mineral potash fertilizers by adding wood ash in the same dose.

Organics can also be used as root feeding:

• slurry - dilute with water 5-6 times;
• bird droppings - diluted with water 10-12 times.

Not only dosage and timing affect the effectiveness of fertilizer use. What matters is how they are entered. For example, if you simply dig up the soil along with the preparations, they will remain in the top layer of the soil. Roots that are deeply located will not receive nutrients. Therefore, this method can be used with a single landing pattern.

Better results are obtained by the method that our grandfathers used. Dig circular holes along the projection of the bush. They should be narrow, but at least 25 cm deep. After applying top dressing, cover the holes with earth.

A good result when growing currants in the open field is given by foliar dressing, which is carried out by spraying. We recommend using one of two recipes:

1. 1.3 g of potassium permanganate and boric acid per bucket of water - spray the plants in the flowering phase.
2. 30 g of ammonium and 25 g of potassium nitrate, 100 g of superphosphate, 10 liters of water - for spraying bushes.

Top dressing is done early in the morning, it is desirable that the leaf is wet. You cannot hold such events at lunchtime: you can burn the foliage.

Mineral fertilizers are good, but don't forget about organics. The introduction of humus, peat, compost as top dressing will not only provide the plant with the necessary substances, but also enrich the soil with beneficial bacteria. Such feeding should be carried out every two years, in late autumn.

Currant pruning

We already spoke about the technique partly at the beginning of the article, now in more detail. The purpose of pruning is sanitary and bush formation. The yield of the plant largely depends on how correctly the currant pruning was done. What do you need to pay attention to?

1. You have already pruned the branches when planting. Now you need to choose and leave two or three powerful root shoots every year, remove the rest. This will create a strong and productive shrub.
2. Cut the left branches to ¼ of the original length.
3. Cut branches that are more than 5 years old. It is easy to get ahead of them: the tops of the shoots dry out, the growths are weak.
4. Prune diseased branches in time.

For red currants, the pruning technique is the same. The exception is on two-year-old shoots and older, the tops cannot be cut off.

How can currant propagate

Have you bought a currant, got your first harvest and thought about how to propagate the bushes? Use a vegetative method, it is he who allows you to preserve the parental qualities of the plant.

1. Woody cuttings.
2. Green cuttings.
3. Green apical cuttings.
4. Layers.

Each method has its own nuances, we will tell you about them, and you choose the technique at your discretion.

Propagation by woody cuttings

The method impresses with its simplicity and worthy results. The main thing is to strictly adhere to the technology. Read carefully and memorize.

1. Select the bottom or middle part of the annual branch. The length of the harvested cutting should be 15-20 cm, thickness - 6 mm. The number of buds on the handle is 4-5 pcs. Material procurement time is the second half of September.
2. Place the cut material in a container with wet sand and place it in the basement. If possible, the cuttings can be kept under the snow, this method of wooding is preferable.
3. Treat the cuttings with root growth promoters before planting in spring. Use "Kornevin" - 5g / 5L or heteroauxin - 100-150 g per liter of water. Keep the cuttings in the solution for a day, while they should be 2/3 immersed in the liquid. The air temperature should not be lower than 230C.
4. Transplant the cuttings into potting soil. After about 12 days, seals will appear on the bottom, which signal that the cuttings can be planted in a permanent place in the open ground.
5. While the cuttings are in the pots, prepare the soil at the planting site. To do this, add 8 kg of compost, 40 g of superphosphate and 15-20 g of wood ash for each square meter. Dig up and moisten the soil.
6. Cuttings should be planted in early spring at an angle of 450, leaving one bud on the surface. This planting contributes to the rapid growth of the root system. The distance between the cuttings in a row is 10 cm, the row spacing is 25 cm.
7. An important condition is abundant irrigation after planting in the amount of 30 liters of water per square meter.

A good result is obtained by planting cuttings under a film. To do this, spread the material over the garden bed, dig in the edges. The planting pattern with this method is 8x15 cm. To get rid of weeds that can grow under the film, sprinkle the aisles with earth in the summer.

With this method of propagation, the bush is obtained with one stem. To get several branches - pinch the top as soon as it grows 8 cm. You will get 2-3 shoots.

Propagation by green cuttings

One of the simple and reliable breeding methods, which is suitable for both a novice hobbyist and an experienced gardener. Cutting is carried out as soon as the desired shoots reach a length of 20 cm. This usually occurs by mid-summer, but the timing for each region is different. To have a clear idea of ​​the method - see the schematic image.

1. Select branches that are 2 years old with developed second-order shoots (1).
2. Cut the cuttings according to the scheme, the lower leaves can be removed.
3. Remember that there should be a small patch of 2-year-old wood on the bottom.
4. Plant in the ground (3), the distance between the cuttings is 5 cm, in the row spacing is 15 cm. The planting depth is 3-7 cm, but the longer the cutting, the greater the value.
5. Water abundantly, about 3-4 times at knocks. In case of heat - 5-7 times.

Further care of cuttings consists in timely weeding, loosening and fight against diseases.

An interesting way is used by some gardeners, we hasten to share it with you. The technology is the same, but the cuttings are grown not outdoors, but indoors under plastic wrap stretched over arcs. Gauze is pulled from above to protect the plant from sunburn. Before closing the bed, it is watered abundantly.

Now you can rest for 15 days. Watering the cuttings is carried out by means of condensation, and the increased air temperature contributes to the rapid rooting of the cuttings. A month after planting, remove the film and continue to grow young bushes in the usual way.

Propagation by green apical cuttings

The method is rather complicated; special equipment is required. To implement it, a greenhouse or greenhouse and a fogging installation are required. This technology is available to specialized gardens and nurseries, so let's talk about it briefly.

Cuttings are planted in a specially prepared substrate consisting of soil and peat in a 1: 1 ratio. Then, using the installation, a fog is created, the humidity of the air must be at least 90%. With this method, the cuttings take root after 2 weeks.

Reproduction by layering

The method is simple, it is often used. It is based on the ability of currants to "put down" roots from shoots. The technology is simple:

1. In early spring, bend annual shoots to the ground, fix them with wooden spears, as shown in the figure.
2. As soon as the shoots grow 10 cm, make the first hilling 4 cm thick. The soil must be moist.
3. After 20 days, repeat the hilling, the layer thickness is 10 cm.
4. In the fall, cut off the shoot from the base of the bush, select the strongest shoots and transplant to a permanent place. Do not touch weak shoots, let them grow.

The survival rate of cuttings is high, you can easily propagate the variety you like.

Diseases and pests of currants

Even modern varieties of currants of different types can be damaged by diseases or diseases.

See tables for signs and treatments.

Currant pests

Currant kidney mite	The kidneys enlarge, become rounded. In the spring they are deformed, take the form of a head of cabbage. Leaves and inflorescences are not formed.	1. Wood cuttings are disinfected with hot water (read in the article), green cuttings with black tea. 2. Before flowering treatment of buds with karbofos (30g / 10 l of water). 3. Spraying the bushes with garlic infusion (100 g / 10 l). 4. To destroy heavily affected bushes.
Spider mite	Damages foliage, which first brightens, then turns brown and falls	Treatment, as in the case of a currant mite. Prevention - timely cleaning of fallen leaves
Gooseberry shoot aphid	The leaves on the tops of the branches curl, the young shoots are curved.	Spraying with nitrafen (300g / 10 l). Infusion of tobacco 400 g / 10 l.
Willow shield	Larvae appear and firmly attach to the bark. As a result, the branches weaken and can dry out.	Nitrafen treatment 300 g / 10 l.
Leafy currant gall midge	The parasite larvae eat the leaves. Damages appear, the leaves turn brown and dry.	Prevention: mulching with peat and autumn digging of the soil. Treatment: 0.3% karbofos emulsion.
Stem currant gall midge	The parasite larvae destroy branches and young shoots.	The measures are the same as for leaf gall midge. Re-processing is needed after harvesting.
Currant kidney moth	The caterpillars of the parasite are red or green in color, the head is black. They bite into the buds of the currants and eat them away from the inside.	Timely cutting of dry branches and stumps, followed by burning. Treatment of the bush with a nitrafen solution (300 g / 10 l).
Gooseberry moth	Caterpillars of the butterfly are dark green in color, the head is black. They parasitize the fruits of black currant.	Hilling currants in the fall with a layer of soil up to 10 cm. Spraying with infusions of wormwood or tobacco.

Currant diseases and their treatment

Powdery mildew	A light white bloom appears on the shoots and fruits. Further, it thickens, changes color to brown. Leaves and shoots stop growing and die.	Spraying before flowering with a solution of copper sulfate (300 g / 10 l) After flowering, 4-fold treatment of the bushes with a solution of soda ash and soap (50 g / 10 l each). In case of severe damage, spraying with colloidal sulfur 1% (50 g / 10 l).
Terry black currant	Leaves lengthen, become asymmetrical, the number of veins decreases. The inflorescences become purple in color. The bushes are thickened.	Purchase planting material from nurseries. Destroy diseased bushes. There are no effective control measures.
Anthracnose	Yellow spots appear on the leaves and shoots, which change color to brown. Over time, the lesions grow and merge. The leaves take on the appearance of burnt and fall off. Brown bumps may appear on the berries.	Prevention: timely collection and destruction of fallen leaves. Treatment of planting material with a solution of copper sulfate (100 g / 10 l). For treatment, spray the bush with Bordeaux liquid 1%. Double processing: before flowering and after harvesting.

Red currants are not affected by the described pests and are less sick. But, if suddenly a disease has arisen, the control measures are the same.

Conclusion

Now you know not only how to plant currants, but also the basics of proper care for a high yield.

Note that many modern varieties may have slightly different requirements for agricultural technology, so check the nuances of care when buying seedlings.

When writing the article, the following literature was used:

1. Shaumyan K.V., Kolesnikov E.V. 'Yagodniki' - Moscow: Rosselkhozizdat, 1981 - p. 64.
2. Glebova E.I., Dankov V.V., Skripchenko M.M. 'Berry Garden' - Leningrad: Lenizdat, 1990 - p. 205

If you still have any questions - ask in the comments, we will answer them. Did you like the article? Share it with your friends on social networks.

Black currant is an unpretentious, very nutritious and tasty berry culture.The plant grows on average 120-170 cm, has many stems of different ages with dull leaves, among which are abundant clusters of large berries.

It bears fruit in the second year, and an adult bush can bring 3-8 kg of harvest per season. Fragrant black currant berries have a pleasant sour-sweet taste, they can be eaten raw, and also make an excellent jam, jam, compote or tincture. Its fragrant leaves are preserved and used for making medicinal tea. Currants are very rich in trace elements, vitamins, and therefore are incredibly useful for health.

Choosing a place for planting black currants

The plant prefers sheltered from the wind and sunny places; in partial shade, its yield will be less. It is better to plant black currants with an open southern or southwestern tip, under a wall or on a gentle slope.

The soil should be fertile, drained, loose, with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction. Optimal - light loam, rich in nutrients. If the earth is acidic, 300-500 g / sq. m of lime or chalk, preferably six months before planting.

Though currant is very fond of watering, it does not tolerate stagnant water or accumulation of effluents. The occurrence of underground water layers should be no higher than 1.2-1.5 m.

Also, areas after gooseberries or any currants, where "related" sources of diseases may remain, are not desirable for the culture.

Landing dates

It is permissible to plant black currants throughout the growing season - it takes root and grows easily, especially with good watering.

However, the most optimal planting period for a plant occurs in autumn, from the third decade of September to early October.

And here it is better to plant currants in spring before bud break and the beginning of juicing... Usually this is no later than mid-April, since black currants begin to bloom from the third decade of April - at the beginning of May (depending on the variety and location).

In the spring, the plant starts growing early, but the earth may not yet fully warm up, as a result, the development of roots lags behind, rooting is worse. Therefore, for spring work, it is recommended to prepare the site in the fall.

Choose the most favorable day for planting by To the gardener's lunar calendar/.

Sapling selection

When choosing planting material, make sure that the currants are fresh, with branched roots and without visible signs of disease. It is best to use two-year-old seedlings that have at least three main roots.

Sometimes currants are sold in containers. In this case, it is still recommended to remove the plant from the pot and check the roots.

Choose zoned currant varieties that work best for your area and are resistant to spotting, powdery mildew, and bud bug. Pay particular attention to the cold resistance of the plant, since due to early flowering, black currants often suffer from spring frosts.

In addition, it is recommended to plant not one, but several mutually pollinated varieties next to each other, which contributes to a higher yield of bushes.

Planting currants

Planting black currants in autumn

About 2-4 weeks before the autumn planting, so that the soil has time to settle, dig holes 50-55 cm wide and 40-45 cm deep.

The segment between the currant bushes depends on the variety, on average - 1.5 m.For example, a linear planting scheme of 2 * 1.5 m is widely used.Weakly spreading varieties can be planted a little denser, after 1 m, and in the row spacing - 1.5 m. The distance to other shrubs should be at least 2 m, to trees - from 3-4 m.

Put a mixture of the top layer of dark earth and 5-6 kg of matted compost, 90-100 g of superphosphate, 20-40 g of potassium sulfate in the planting holes. Instead of potassium, you can add a handful wood ash... Wait until the soil shrinks; in case of rain, the holes need to be covered.

On the day of planting, so that the roots do not burn, sprinkle the fertilizer with a thin layer of fertile soil.Then place the seedlings at an angle of about 45-50 degrees. and slightly deeper than the pre-transplant or nursery level. The root collar should be at a depth of about 5 cm. Inclined planting with a deepening stimulates normal growth, the bushes will have many strong shoots.

Spread out the roots gently, sprinkle them with some fertile soil, then add half a bucket of water. Wait until moisture is absorbed and evenly add the seedling to the top, periodically slightly compacting the ground. Make a depression around the bush, add half a bucket of water again.

Immediately after planting, mulch the area with humus, peat or sawdust.

Finally, cut the seedling about 7-15 cm from the ground - 2-4 buds. The shortened young currant will form a lush bush in the future.

For the winter, seedlings are covered, spud.

Spring planting

For spring planting, prepare and fill the soil in the fall by making holes or digging it onto a shovel bayonet with the introduction of half a bucket of rotten organic matter, 40 g of potassium or half a glass of ash, up to 100 g of phosphorus per 1 sq. M. In the spring, fertilization is no longer necessary. The rest of the process is similar to the autumn work. Half a month after planting, it is advisable to add 15-20 g of nitrogen fertilizers under a young bush.

Reproduction

Currants are propagated by cuttings, layering or dividing... At home, cuttings are most often used, from which bushes with all the properties of the mother plant are obtained.

You can plant a cutting in autumn or spring, for example, during pruning of an adult bush. Only in the spring is it necessary for the soil to thaw at least 20 cm, and it is advisable to prepare the site in the fall.

Cut the cuttings from ripe shoots, at least 6-7 mm thick, 15-20 cm long. Cut the branch straight from above, 1 cm above the bud, and obliquely from below.

Shoots can be dug into holes or trenches. It is recommended to dip or powder the lower tips with any growth stimulant before planting. Dig them in obliquely, at an angle. Planting depth - 3-5 cm, a step in a row between the processes - up to 20 cm, two buds should remain above the surface. After planting, mulch the area with humus.

A year later, full-fledged seedlings will form from the cuttings, which need to be transplanted to a permanent place.

Care Tips

1. Water the currants regularly, especially young plants, 2-4 buckets under the bush. The need for moisture is greatest during the growing season (June), after picking berries (August, early September), as well as during drought. In the heat, spraying the leaves will not hurt either.
2. From the third season, apply fertilizers every 1-2 years, before loosening, on the bush: in the spring - 60 g of ammonium nitrate, in the fall - half a bucket of humus, 20-30 g of superphosphate, 20 g of potassium (or 40 g of the NPK complex). If necessary, the bush can be additionally fed in the spring by watering with 1.5-2 buckets of slurry.
3. Loosen the soil under the bush regularly, but carefully so as not to catch the surface roots.
4. Before wintering, sprinkle the plant with earth, sprinkle the tree trunk circle with peat or compost.
5. Protect currants from spring frosts!
6. In summer, it is convenient to mulch currants with humus, tops, cut grass, etc.
7. Pruning is best done in late autumn, after dropping the leaves. In this case, it is necessary to remove diseased and dry twigs, as well as thin out the bush by cutting out excess one-year-olds, shoots with poor growth and shoots older than 5 years. Lubricate the wounds with garden pitch. The bush should be with a non-thickened center and a wide base of 15-20 uneven-aged shoots.

With proper planting and normal care, black currants will take root well, be healthy and will delight you with a rich harvest of tasty and nutritious berries for a long time!