Planting panicle hydrangea in open ground from a pot in

Huge greenish-white, pink, purple, lilac and even blue hydrangea bushes today can be grown even by novice gardeners. In our detailed workshop, we show you step by step how to plant a hydrangea outdoors.

Lush hydrangea bushes today can be seen in almost every front garden, and after all, scientists began to seriously select this plant only at the beginning of the 20th century. Since then, more than 100 varieties have been bred, including winter-hardy ones, which feel great in the middle lane.

It is best to plant a hydrangea in the spring, when the snow has melted and the soil has warmed up a little, but the buds on the trees and shrubs have not yet blossomed. Experienced gardeners sometimes plant hydrangeas in the fall, but this is quite risky and unreliable, because a fragile seedling can freeze and die without having time to take root. In the fall, you can only plant hydrangeas if you live in southern regions with mild winters.

Step 1 - prepare the soil for planting

Hydrangea is a capricious plant that is demanding on the composition of the soil and sunlight, so before planting, carry out a pH analysis of the soil and, if necessary, apply the necessary fertilizers.

The plant thrives best in slightly acidic and even acidic soil with a high content of nutrients. Before planting hydrangeas, the poor soil needs to be improved and acidified by adding leaf humus or well-rotted garden compost at the rate of 1-1.5 buckets per 1 square meter. Heavy clay soil should be lightened by adding coarse sand or peat (1-1.5 buckets per square meter).

The composition of the soil affects not only the growth and development of large-leaved hydrangeas, but also the color of the inflorescences. The more acidic the soil and the more aluminum and iron in it, the more blue the flowers will become.

Pink and red flowers can be obtained by growing hydrangeas in neutral or alkaline soil that is high in phosphorus.

The place where the hydrangea will grow should be well lit, preferably in the afternoon. Shading for too long can lead to wilting and even death of the plant.

Step 2 - dig the planting hole

The depth and diameter of the planting pit depend on the size of the seedling and the fertility of the soil. If you plan to add additional sand, humus, and other fertilizers, make the hole deeper and wider.

For a 4-5-year-old seedling, the depth of the planting pit should be 40-45 cm, and the width should be 50-70 cm. Young 1-2-year-old seedlings are planted in a pit measuring 30x30 cm.

If you want to plant several hydrangea bushes nearby to get a hedge, the distance between the seedlings should be 2-3 m.You can plant them closer - at a distance of 0.7-1 m from each other, then you will get a thicker and denser hedge , which will need to be thinned out in a few years.

Step 3 - plant the hydrangea

Carefully remove the hydrangea seedling from the pot along with a lump of earth and place it in the middle of the hole.

The roots of the plant should be well moistened, so pour about one bucket of water into the hole and let it soak.

Fill the hole with fertile soil and tamp it well so that there is no void around the roots and the earth does not dry out.

Step 4 - mulch the trunk circle

After planting, you need to mulch the near-trunk circle with peat, sawdust or rotted foliage with a layer of about 7 cm. This will prevent the soil from drying out in the hot summer months and additionally acidify the soil.

Step 5 - cut the seedling

After spring planting, a young 1-2-year-old seedling must be cut off, leaving 3-4 pairs of buds on each shoot. When the hydrangea takes root, it will need to be pruned every year, removing ¾ of the height of the shoots.

Step 6 - feed the hydrangea

In order for the hydrangea to develop well and bloom profusely, it needs to be fed regularly. For this, organic and mineral fertilizers with a high content of magnesium and iron in liquid form are suitable. Today in garden centers you can find special fertilizers for hydrangeas, which must be applied according to the instructions. If it was not possible to find a special fertilizer, you can feed the hydrangea with a fermented solution of poultry droppings diluted in water in a ratio of 1:15. Under each bush, you need to apply about 300 g of such fertilizer.

The best time to fertilize is from April to July at intervals of two weeks.

Observing the planting rules and the sequence of actions, the next year you will admire the beautifully flowering hydrangea bush.

Hydrangea flowers create the effect of airiness and lightness. The culture has more than 35 different species, including shrubs, small trees, and even lianas. Garden hydrangea, planting and caring for which requires certain climatic conditions, can also develop in the Urals, if we take into account all the subtleties of the process and create the necessary atmosphere for effective growth.

Variety selection

Since in the territory of the Ural Territory the temperature is often kept in the range of 35-40 degrees of frost, the most adapted types of hydrangea will be: paniculate and tree-like. They are considered the most unpretentious and winter-hardy options, so the likelihood that they will take root is much higher.

Hydrangea flowers create the effect of airiness and lightness.

Growing a crop in such conditions requires special skills in caring for the plant. The growing process begins with a careful selection of seedlings. You should not purchase flower sprouts with a dry clod of earth. It is highly likely that they will not take root, as they are very sensitive to the lack of moisture in the soil.

The necessary conditions

For planting flowering shrubs, it is better to choose an area that is in partial shade and protected from the winds. Various buildings on the site or a reliable fence can act as protection. Also, the plant does not tolerate exposure to direct sunlight - this can damage not only the leaves, but also cause the bush to wilt. At the same time, the paniculate type of flower needs shade more than the tree-like one.

The soil

It is desirable that the soil be rich in peat. In order to prevent weathering and freezing of the base of the culture trunk, you can cover the ground around the flower with geotextiles, or cover it with bark of coniferous trees. If the land is too depleted, you need to take care of adding fertile black soil, which is added to the bottom of the planting holes.

It is desirable that the soil be rich in peat.

It is important to regularly loosen the soil near the roots to ensure an adequate supply of oxygen. If there is no time for regular maintenance, you can add a layer of mulch to the soil at the first planting.

Watering

Garden hydrangea needs moisture. Insufficient watering during the hot months can cause the plant to freeze in winter, especially fragile seedlings.

If watering from a watering can is not possible, you can install an automatic irrigation or drip irrigation system.

Insufficient watering during the hot months can cause the plant to freeze in winter, especially fragile seedlings.

Immediately after planting, you need to water the flower plant daily, and after the time has elapsed, reduce watering to the required volume to prevent the trunk from drying out.

Features of planting garden hydrangea

Planting culture is carried out in spring or autumn. In very cold climates, it is best to plant cuttings in the spring so that they can get used to the cold.There are several basic rules for planting a plant:

1. After fertilizing the substrate, a layer of peat is poured into the planting hole, and the roots of the seedlings are slightly shortened.
2. The planting hole should be 30 cm in diameter, and the distance between the seedlings should be at least one meter.
3. The plant is placed in single bushes or groups of seedlings on the lawn.
4. After fertilizing the soil, peat is poured into the hole, and the roots of the seedlings are shortened. When placing the cuttings in the pit, do not deepen the root collar.
5. If the planting is carried out in the spring, then it is better to shorten the one-year-old shoots by 3 buds.
6. After planting, the bush must be thoroughly watered and covered with a layer of peat or humus in order to keep the base of the stem warm.

For hydrangea, garden planting in the open field in autumn is considered not the best option, since young seedlings do not have time to get used to the climate, but immediately fall into severe frosts.

Top dressing

Before planting cuttings, the soil must be enriched with mineral and organic fertilizers. At the initial stage of growth, plants are fertilized with minerals and humus. Over time, you can add nitrogen fertilizers or use ready-made mixtures offered in stores.

In order for a hydrangea, planting and caring for which is associated with the flow of nutrients into the stems, to bloom often and abundantly, it is necessary to carry out two dressings per month.

In order for a hydrangea, planting and caring for which is associated with the flow of nutrients into the stems, to bloom often and abundantly, it is necessary to carry out two dressings per month.

In order for the shrub to bloom luxuriantly and for a long time, you need to carry out regular feeding.

At the beginning of the growth of the seedling, a mixture of the following fertilizers must be applied:

• urea;
• superphosphate;
• sulfuric potassium.

During the budding period:

• superphosphate;
• potassium sulfate.

At the end of the summer months, it is better to choose fertilization with compost or rotted manure. Under each bush, you need to apply about 15 kg of fertilizer.

Reproduction of garden hydrangea

If a garden hydrangea has appeared on the site, planting and care in the open field, reproduction and pruning should be carried out in ways that best suit the climate.

The best ways to propagate hydrangeas are considered to be propagation by cuttings and layering.

If a garden hydrangea has appeared on the site, planting and care in the open field, reproduction and pruning should be carried out in ways that best suit the climate.

In such cases, flowering of new plants can be expected in about 4-5 years.

Propagation by cuttings

For this method, at the end of June, you need to process the cuttings, previously split off from the plant, and plant them in the shade in separate beds or in special pots. In winter, they need to be brought into the basement, and planted only after a year. For this method, at the end of June, you need to process the cuttings, previously split off from the plant, and plant them in the shade in separate beds or in special pots.

With the arrival of summer, the plant is taken out into the air, green branches are cut off from it, and the trunk of the bush itself is buried at an angle into the ground, while the branches must be fanned out. Before winter, the bush is mulched, and in spring each bud gives a new flower.

Reproduction by layering

To begin with, you need to dig up the bush in early spring. Then make radial paths up to 2 cm deep, in which to lay one shoot from the bottom of the shrub. With the help of special slingshots, they must be pinned and lightly sprinkled with earth. By the end of August, young roots should appear on the layers.

Preparing for winter

Garden care in the open field in the fall is especially important for any variety of hydrangea. It is necessary to mulch the bush with earth mixed with compost or humus. In the year when the bush was just planted, the plant needs not only a reliable shelter, but also bending the branches to the ground before winter, as well as pinning young branches.

Garden care in the open field in the fall is especially important for any variety of hydrangea. It is necessary to mulch the bush with earth mixed with compost or humus.

Recently, completely new varieties have appeared in stores that can bloom on shoots even in the first year, but little is known about their frost resistance.

Shelter

In winter, the shrub needs shelter, as the buds can freeze out. There are two main ways to hide a flower for the winter:

1. Standard way

For this, you can use agrofibre or a wooden box. The branches of the bush are bent down. A cloth of agrofibre is laid on top of it and covered with a layer of spruce branches. Part of the stem at the very root is covered with dry leaves. To keep the plant in harsh cold weather, the plant must be covered with coniferous or leaf litter with a layer of about 15 cm.

Hydrangea shelter

2. Shelter with spunbond

This method requires preparation. At a distance of about 20-25 cm from the plant, a wire frame is installed. Its height should be 15 cm higher than the plant itself. The flower shrub is covered with fallen leaves. Under such insulation, hydrangea will be able to winter even in a harsh climate.

Shrub pruning

Plant pruning can be done for aesthetic beauty and to improve plant health and flowering.

Bush formation

When growing a panicle garden hydrangea, planting and care in the open field should also include the formation of bushes. For this, the shrub is periodically pruned. Without pruning, the flower tree may at first thicken strongly and take on a neglected look. As a result, they may bloom worse, the inflorescences can be greatly crushed. But if you carry out pruning, you can not only keep the original shape, but also improve the condition of the plant. Usually 6-10 strong shoots are left, which are shortened by several buds. If you leave only two buds at the bottom of the tree, the flowers will be more rare, but larger. It is important to remove dry inflorescences.

When growing a panicle garden hydrangea, planting and care in the open field should also include the formation of bushes.

When profuse flowering begins, the branches may not be able to cope with the weight of the inflorescences. To avoid breaking the branches, the plant must be tied to a nearby wooden or metal stand.

Sanitary pruning of bushes

Pruning a plant before winter is an important event for a garden hydrangea, if planting and care in the open field in the Urals is carried out competently. The branches of paniculate and tree-like hydrangea are shortened by half or by a third.

You can cut the bushes in early spring. Many gardeners are convinced that it is better to prune these varieties in the spring before the first blossoming bud. After wintering, you need to thin out the adult plant, removing all weak branches, as well as those growing inside the bush, creating extra shadow and thickening. Frozen stems are best cut to the start of healthy wood.

Pruning a plant before winter is an important event for a garden hydrangea

There are times when even rooted cuttings begin to bloom. To prevent this from happening. All this beauty must be removed in order to fill young shoots with strength and power.

Diseases and pests

Chlorosis of the bush can become one of the plant diseases. It is caused by a lack of iron.

Chlorosis damages crops not only with an excess of lime, but also when watering with hard water. A sign of the disease can be: yellowing, lightening of leaves, general oppression of the plant. To cure young branches and improve the condition of the foliage, you need to bring the acidity of the soil back to normal. To do this, you need to add substances to the soil that neutralize the alkali.

To acidify alkaline soil, you can use from recipes:

1. You can use citric acid. The concentration of the product is taken at the rate of 1 teaspoon per 15 liters. This method is recommended once a month.
2. You can dilute a Citramon tablet in 5 liters of water. It is watered once a month.
3. Malic acid (acetic acid can be used) dissolves at the rate of 100 grams per 10 liters of water.
4. Dissolve one and a half tablespoons of oxalic acid in 10 liters of water.

The main pest of the plant is considered to be a spider mite, which affects even flowers such as violets. It harms not only the leaves, but also the crop stem. To fight it, you need to use special preparations that will quickly and effectively get rid of adversity and return flowering.

To make young seedlings more durable, they can be watered with a weak solution of manganese so that the culture is resistant to pests and diseases.

The main problems and failures when growing bushes

The cultivation of garden hydrangea, planting and care in the open field in the north-west of the country is always associated with a lot of problems, since it is influenced by a lot of factors.

The main reason for failed cultivation can be an adverse reaction of the soil. If the land on the site does not have the required acidity, it can be acidified. For this, sour peat, litter of needles or tree bark are used. You can also pick up ready-made fertilizers for acidifying the soil, which are selected in a specialized store for each type of unusual flower.

If there is a lot of lime in the soil, the flower suffers from a lack of iron, which is necessary for normal life. In this case, you need to shed the soil with a solution of ferrous sulfate. The main thing is, after any application with a solution and dressing, to monitor the condition of the leaves and the trunk itself, since the reason for the wilting of the shrub may be incorrectly identified. If the condition has not improved, it is necessary to look for another reason for the worsening of the condition of the bush. This may be a lack of moisture or a pest, the appearance of which cannot always be immediately noticed.

Having dealt with the intricacies of growing a "capricious" flower in the harsh climate conditions of the Ural Territory, you can create a lush garden in which a luxurious plant will solo. The shrub has high aesthetic characteristics, therefore, it is often used as a decorative element when creating landscape design on a personal plot.

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Garden hydrangea is a very decorative and unpretentious flowering shrub. Despite the fact that this plant is quite thermophilic, it can be grown in different climatic zones.

So, in the conditions of the mountainous Urals, it feels great and blooms profusely. With a properly chosen landing site and proper care, hydrangea perfectly tolerates the harsh Ural climate.

In the article, you will learn in detail about the cultivation of hydrangeas in the Urals.

Features of the climatic conditions of the Urals

The climatic conditions of the Urals are different for all of its regions. So, in the north - in the circumpolar and northern Urals - summer lasts no more than 1 month, and the average July temperature does not exceed 6 ° C. But in the middle and southern Urals, the climate is much milder. Here in summer the temperature rises up to 20 and even up to 28 ° C. The average winter temperature is -20 ... -22 ° C, although it can drop down to -35 ° C. In these regions, it is possible to grow frost-resistant varieties of hydrangea.

The climate of the Urals is characterized by an uneven distribution of precipitation. The ridge traps large air masses. For this reason, in the Cis-Urals, the average annual rainfall is much higher than in the Trans-Urals. The air humidity in these areas also differs.

In the western part of the Urals, the climate is temperate continental, while the eastern part is characterized by continental climatic conditions. The difference between summer and winter temperatures in the Cis-Urals is 38-42 ° C, and beyond the Ural ridge this figure is much higher. Here in winter, frosts are kept down to -45 ° C. Therefore, even when growing the most frost-resistant varieties of hydrangea, the bushes must be carefully covered for the winter. Without shelter in these harsh conditions, the plant does not survive.

Choosing a place for planting hydrangeas

When choosing a place for planting hydrangeas, it is necessary to take into account its illumination, protection from the wind and soil moisture. It is also important to know the composition of the soil at the planting site in order, if necessary, to fill the planting hole with the soil mixture that is optimal for the plant.

In some areas of the Urals, summer is quite hot and sunny... When planting hydrangeas, you need to choose a place with diffused lighting. The sun's rays should not hit the leaves of the plant in the afternoon. Only in the morning is it possible to illuminate with direct sunlight. Therefore, it is better to plant a hydrangea under the crowns of trees.

Place the hydrangea in a quiet location. She does not like the wind, grows poorly and blooms in open spaces. It is better to plant a bush near a solid hedge or wall of a house so that it is reliably protected from gusts of wind.

A moisture-loving hydrangea should not be planted in an arid place. It is desirable that the soil is well moistened and does not dry out. Otherwise, this plant will need to be watered frequently for good flowering.

But stagnation of water in the soil is just as harmful for him as drying out. Hydrangea should not be planted in swampy places. From excess moisture, root decay begins, the bush quickly dies.

A slightly acidic soil is necessary for the proper development of hydrangeas.... In the Urals, such soils are practically not found. Podzolized and leached chernozems, sod-podzolic and gray forest soils prevail here.

They have a neutral or alkaline reaction, so it is impossible to grow hydrangea on natural soils in many places. When planting a plant, peat is added to the planting hole to acidify the soil.

Suitable varieties of hydrangea for the Urals

Hydrangea is grown by many gardeners of the Urals. But not all plant species are suitable for a given region. Many varieties of hydrangea cannot survive harsh winters even with careful hiding. Here, only panicle hydrangea and tree hydrangea are grown. It is recommended to choose the most winter-hardy varieties of these species.

The following varieties of panicle hydrangea are popular in the Ural region:

• Dart's Little-Dot;
• "Limelight 'Pieter Zwijnenburg";
• "Kyushu";
• Vanille Fraise;
• "Unique".

«Dart's Little-Dot"- a low-growing compact variety, not exceeding 80 cm in height. The flowers are milky white, collected in large inflorescences.

Over time, they change color to pink. Blooms from mid-July to late August. Withstands frosts down to -29 ° C without shelter. In the photo on the left.

«Limelight 'Pieter Zwijnenburg"- a large plant, reaching a height of 2.5 m. It has creamy white inflorescences with a slight green tint. Blooms from mid-summer to late September. Winter hardiness of this variety is high.

«Kyushu"- another variety of panicle hydrangea with high winter hardiness. The plant forms very large bushes, the height and diameter of which reaches 3 m. White fragrant flowers are collected in long inflorescences. Flowering is very long, ends in mid-October.

«Vanille fraise"- a small flowering plant, the height of which is rarely more than 1.5 m. Forms large inflorescences of creamy white flowers. By the end of flowering, the inflorescences turn dark red. Blooms until mid-September. Withstands temperatures up to -29 ° C without shelter.

«Unique"Is a fairly large plant, the height of which often reaches 2.5 m. It blooms with white inflorescences, which eventually acquire a pinkish tint. Withstands winter frosts down to -34 ° C without shelter.

Also on the territory of the Urals, many varieties of tree hydrangea are successfully grown. The following varieties are especially popular:

• Annabelle;
• Sterilis;
• Hayes Starburst.

«Annabelle"- a frost-resistant variety that blooms until mid-September. Its height does not exceed 1 m. It blooms profusely with white flowers, collected in large round inflorescences. In the photo on the right.

«Sterilis»- long-flowering variety.It usually blooms from mid-summer to late October. Young inflorescences have a light greenish tint, over time the flowers become pure white. Blooms profusely. A frost-resistant enough variety for growing in the harsh conditions of the Urals.

«Hayes starburst"- a frost-resistant variety that can withstand temperatures of -34 ° C without shelter. This is a compact plant, not exceeding 1.5 m in size. It has snow-white double flowers, collected in large inflorescences.

Hydrangea care basics in the Urals

The frequency of watering hydrangeas depends on the weather conditions in the region. If it rains regularly and the ground is constantly wet, there is no need to water the bushes. But very often, especially in the Trans-Urals, summer is quite hot and dry. At this time, the hydrangea must be watered as the soil dries out, but not to allow it to dry out completely.

In order for the bush to develop better and bloom annually, it is recommended to acidify the soil on which it grows... This is done twice a season. The hydrangea bush is watered with an acidic solution. You can use whey. Good results are obtained by the juice of 1 lemon, diluted in 5 liters of water.

For abundant flowering of hydrangeas, regular feeding is necessary. This procedure is carried out twice a month from May to August.

In late spring and early summer, the plant is fed with complex fertilizers with a large amount of nitrogen-containing substances. This will allow you to quickly build up leaf mass and prepare for flowering.

In the middle and at the end of summer, hydrangeas are fed with complex fertilizers for flowering plants with a predominance of phosphorus and potassium. This will support flowering and slow down the development of new shoots, which will not have time to mature before the onset of cold weather.

Hydrangea wintering

Each frost-resistant hydrangea variety has its own temperature range at which it can winter without shelter. But usually in winter in the Urals, the temperature drops much lower and the shoots of the plant freeze out. Therefore, even the most frost-resistant varieties of hydrangeas when grown in the Urals must be carefully covered.

Before the first autumn frosts, the bush begins to prepare for wintering. Leaves, except for the topmost ones, are removed on all shoots. The bush is pulled together with a rope and wrapped with covering material.

Then it is carefully bent to the ground and fixed with bricks or stones. From above, the plant is covered with sawdust and covered with spruce branches, and to protect it from moisture, it is covered on top with a film or roofing material.

You can also use the frame method of shelter.... In this case, the plant is not bent to the ground. A metal mesh frame is erected around it, which is filled with dry leaves and sawdust. From above, the entire structure is covered with a film or roofing felt.

With the onset of spring warming, the hydrangea is carefully and gradually freed from the shelter. But the bush is completely opened only after the end of the spring frost.

Plant pruning

In the first 3-4 years of life, the hydrangea is not pruned. Then they carry out the annual spring forming and autumn sanitary pruning of the plant. Sanitary pruning is done to remove excess and dry parts of the plant that interfere with its growth and are a medium for the development of infection. Formative pruning is necessary to give the plant a decorative effect and to ensure annual flowering.

In the fall, dry inflorescences are cut from the bush... Remove all leaves except the youngest at the tops of the shoots. Dry branches are also cut to prevent them from becoming a source of infection during the winter. After that, the bush can be covered for the winter.

Formative pruning is carried out in the spring. Remove broken, frozen, weak and thin branches, as well as shoots growing inside the bush. Very dense and overgrown bushes must be thinned out by cutting out a few of the oldest branches.

Hydrangea species popular in the Urals form inflorescences on the shoots of the current year. Therefore, to form a beautiful crown, all long branches are cut by 1/3, which stimulates branching. The pruning procedure is carried out with a sharp garden pruner.

Terms and rules for landing in open ground

In the Urals, the planting of hydrangeas in the ground is carried out at the end of spring, when the earth has already warmed up well. It is impossible to plant bushes in the fall in this region. They, as a rule, do not have time to take root well and die from hypothermia, even with careful shelter.

Before disembarking, it is necessary to prepare a landing pit. Its dimensions should be at least 50x50x50 cm, even if the seedling is small. It is necessary to provide the required amount of soil in advance for the development of the root system of the bush. At least 3 buckets of water are poured into the finished pit to moisten the surrounding soil well. A day later, they begin to disembark.

Natural soils of the Urals have a neutral or alkaline reaction, which is unacceptable for the development of hydrangeas. Therefore, for planting, you need to prepare an optimal earthen mixture. It should include: humus, leaf and coniferous soil, peat, sand. All components are taken in equal parts. A layer of sand or crushed stone is laid at the bottom of the pit, and on top it is filled with a prepared soil mixture.

Now you can plant a hydrangea bush. It should not be deeply buried so that the root collar remains at the soil level. After planting, the soil is crushed, and the plant is well watered. The soil surface is mulched to retain moisture. It is useful to use peat as mulch. Sawdust from fruit trees is also suitable.

The main mistakes of cultivation and their solution

Often inexperienced gardeners plant hydrangeas without taking into account the acidity of the soil. This is unacceptable for the Urals, since most of the natural soils of this region are unsuitable for growing hydrangeas.

To grow a healthy and regularly flowering shrub, the soil for planting must have an acidity of 5.0-5.5... If the soil is neutral and this indicator is in the range of 6.0-7.0, the soil should be slightly acidified. On soils with an alkaline reaction (acidity in the range of 8.0-9.0), hydrangea quickly dies.

Determining the acidity of the soil is the main task of the gardener who wants to decorate his garden with blooming hydrangea. With a neutral soil reaction, it can be used for planting, but to fill the planting pit, this soil must be mixed with peat or coniferous soil. Alkaline soil is not used for planting hydrangeas. The planting hole is filled with soil mixture for hydrangeas, and the plant is fed monthly with iron sulfate (5 g per bucket of water).

Wrong landing site is another common mistake when growing hydrangeas. It should not be planted in places that are too dry. Often, even intensive watering does not help.

Also, you should not place bushes in lowlands where water stagnates. If it is not possible to choose another place, you need to prepare a deep planting pit, and lay a thick layer of crushed stone drainage on its bottom.

Often in the summer months, hydrangea bushes infest pests, which leads to the fall of flowers and the drying of young shoots. Most of all, the plant suffers from aphids, which can multiply on its shoots in huge numbers. Also, a red spider mite may appear on the bushes. There are also other garden pests.

You should not fight harmful insects using folk methods. They allow only partially to destroy them, but the pests soon multiply again. It is necessary to use only purchased pesticides, with the help of which you can completely destroy pests and save the plant.

Propagation of hydrangea

There are 5 ways to breed hydrangeas:

• Sowing seeds;
• Reinking;
• Reproduction by layering;
• Reproduction by offspring;
• Division of the bush.

Hydrangea seeds are rarely propagated. This is a very time consuming and laborious method. Usually, vegetative propagation methods are used.

Cutting is the most productive method for producing young hydrangeas... Cuttings are cut in mid-July. They are rooted in pots in a mixture of peat and sand under a film.For quick rooting, they are treated with a root growth stimulator. Rooted cuttings are grown for at least 2 years as pot plants and only then are they planted in open ground.

To obtain a layering, cut the bark on the lower branch of the bush and drop it in the place of the cut. This is done in late spring. Usually, by the fall, the cuttings are already taking root. But they separate it and transplant it to a new place only the next year. The offspring are also transplanted - the lower rooted shoots of the bush.

Hydrangea bushes are divided only during transplantation, so it is rarely possible to get a new copy in this way. However, cuttings are fully formed plants that can bloom as early as next year. Divide the hydrangea bushes in the spring.

Many gardeners are interested in growing hydrangeas in the Urals. Cold -40⁰ and below are not uncommon there, even cold-resistant crops sometimes freeze out. Breeders are trying to make the life of northerners more beautiful and comfortable; pears, plums and even grapes ripen in Siberian and Ural gardens. You can decorate the site with lush hydrangea bushes, just do not take the first variety you like, pay attention to the zoned varieties. It is not easy for a southern plant to live in a northern climate, provide it with proper care, and your summer cottage will be buried in flowers.

Choosing a variety for cold terrain

Not every type of hydrangea can be grown outdoors in frosty winters. If you want to breed petiolate, large-flowered, or oak-leaved varieties, take care of a reliable shelter, severe cold can destroy the bushes. It is better for a novice florist to opt for a paniculate or tree-like variety. It is advisable to purchase planting material in nurseries of your region or take shoots in your area, and not bring them from other areas.

If dwarf varieties are planted on the site, they can be completely covered with snow, in such a "fur coat" the flower will become 10 degrees warmer than in the open air. When the hydrangea is not higher than a meter, its branches can be bent to the ground, and the Ural weather itself will wrap the ground in high snowdrifts. It will be more difficult to insulate a three-meter bush, it remains to hope that the upper branches will withstand severe frost.

Do not be surprised if friends give you a branch from their bush, and the inflorescences turn out to be of a different shade. You have a hydrangea of ​​exactly the same variety, it is just that this plant can change colors. It all depends on the acidity of the soil. At the dacha, where the main plant lived, the soil is sour and the inflorescences are bluish. You planted shoots in the ground with an alkaline reaction - expect that in the summer it will be covered with pink tassels.

Where to find planting material

The best option for obtaining planting material is to purchase seedlings of zoned varieties in the nursery. Conscientious sellers will never offer you a bush with bare roots. Hydrangea does not tolerate even short-term drying of the underground part, buy plants only in containers filled with soil. Remove the bush from the container, inspect the soil and root system. If you notice mold or rotten growths, skip the purchase.

The seedling must be healthy without damage. When purchasing a flower with already open leaves, check that they are fresh, bright green. If the foliage has lost its elasticity or acquired a brownish tint, it is highly likely that the hydrangea is infected with some kind of infectious disease. You can purchase a plant in the summer, when the inflorescences have already blossomed, in this method there are both pros and cons. You can choose a bush with the most beautiful inflorescences, but hydrangeas will have less time for rooting and gaining strength before a difficult winter in the Urals.

You can detach part of the bush or take a stalk from neighbors in the country. In the spring, several shoots with part of the root system are separated from the overgrown flower with a shovel and planted in a new place. When propagating by cuttings, it is advisable to treat the cut with special stimulants and stick it into the ground.In less than a month, the hydrangea will take root and start developing in a new location.

Planting hydrangeas

In warm regions, hydrangeas are planted in spring, summer and autumn. In the harsh Ural climate, it is necessary for the plant to take root well and get stronger by winter. If you plant the bushes as soon as the spring frosts end, they will take root well during the warm season and will be ready for the cold.

The site must be well lit and protected from strong winds. Determine from which side the site is blown by the most intense air currents, plant a flower so that buildings, fences and dense bushes protect it. Hydrangea loves fertile soils with a high content of black soil or peat. If the soil is clay, you can fertilize it with humus or compost. Add coarse sand for looseness and drainage. The pH should be between 5-6 units. If it is too low, add peat or needles, and if it is too low, add lime.

Dig holes with a depth and diameter of 0.5 m at a distance of one and a half meters from each other. Place gravel on the bottom for drainage and 2-3 shovels of humus or peat. The roots of the hydrangea branch strongly, gently spread all the processes, place them in the hole so that the root collar is at ground level. Bury the holes with fertile soil, water well and mulch with peat or pine needles, the layer thickness should be at least 6 cm.

Advice

When planting a hydrangea, set it so that the root collar rises a few centimeters above the ground. When you add a layer of mulch, it will be in the right place, so you don't have to shovel the peat off the stems.

Care

In the warm season, growing and caring for hydrangea consists of the same operations that are used for growing other flowering shrubs.

• Watering as the soil dries, 1-2 buckets per bush. Over the summer, water the bush with an acidic solution 2 times: add juice from one lemon to 5 liters of water.
• Top dressing with complex fertilizers in spring, early summer and during the formation of inflorescences.
• Weeding and loosening the soil. With good mulching, the need for these procedures disappears.
• Pruning. In the spring, remove all damaged, frozen, diseased and weak shoots, as well as branches growing inside the bush. In the fall, remove dried flowers and shoots that have not had time to woody. To rejuvenate aged plants, you need to leave 5 strong and healthy trunks, and cut the rest.

Advice

Hydrangea cannot tolerate excess calcium. When feeding, avoid preparations with a high content of this component and do not use ash and lime.

In summer cottages, it is common to grow hydrangeas in the form of a bush. If you plant plants a short distance from each other, you can make green screens, divide the area into several zones with hedges, or create a labyrinth. Small trees near the house or in a flower garden look original. To give the hydrangea a standard shape, you need to carry out formative pruning on one trunk for several seasons, and remove the remaining shoots.

If the bushes are tall, the tops of paniculate and tree-like varieties can be left uncovered for the winter or wrapped in non-woven fabric. All other species in the Urals must be completely insulated or grown in large tubs and transferred to a greenhouse or winter garden for the cold season. Bend low shoots to the ground, secure and cover with spruce branches or other insulating material. Pour a layer of mulch no thinner than 10 cm on the ground. After snowfalls, throw a large snowdrift over the bushes so that it protects the shoots from frost.

Diseases and pests

Even in unfamiliar climates, hydrangea rarely gets sick. To prevent such a nuisance from happening to your flower, purchase planting material only in reliable nurseries. When you dig up shoots or take cuttings from neighbors, carefully examine their bush. If you saw that he looks depressed, the leaves dry or change color - do not take it, why would you carry the infection to your site.Much also depends on you. Plant the plants at a sufficient distance from each other, do not allow the crown to become too dense. With good living conditions and proper care, the plant will be strong and able to resist infections and pests.

Most often, the bush is affected by chlorosis. It arises from a lack of iron or an excess of lime in the soil. If you notice that the leaves become lighter and acquire a yellow tint, first of all, pay attention to the water for irrigation, it should be soft, preferably rainwater. Water diseased plants with water with the addition of potassium nitrate or iron sulfate at a concentration of 40 g per bucket.

Hydrangea can become infected with fungal infections.

• White rot. The leaves darken, rot, a white bloom appears on them.
• Gray rot. Watery spots appear on the leaves, which are then covered with a gray bloom, similar to cotton wool.
• Downy mildew. Oily spots appear on the aerial parts, which gradually darken.
• Powdery mildew. Yellowish, gradually turning brown spots are formed on the leaves. On the inside, a gray or purple bloom appears.

If the bush is damaged, treat it with copper oxychloride or other fungicides.

With high humidity or too dense planting, snails can attack the bushes. They eat young shoots and buds. If the pests are not destroyed, they will overwinter underground in the roots, and in the spring they will gnaw the emerging buds and young leaves. The main methods of control are manual collection of shellfish and poisoned baits. The bushes are also affected by spider mites and aphids. If you spot insects, treat the plants with an appropriate insecticide.

Conclusion

The magnificent hydrangea can be admired not only by residents of the southern regions, thanks to the selection work, this flower grows in Siberia and the Urals. When buying seedlings, keep in mind that not every species can withstand severe frosts. Buy varieties of local breeding, and when buying, check if cultivation in the open field is permissible, or this variety can only be bred as a houseplant.

The zoned varieties can withstand severe frosts, but it is better to help the plant survive the cold winter. Shoots that did not have time to woody will surely freeze, it is better to remove them in the fall. To prevent the bush from releasing new branches by the fall, do not feed it with nitrogen fertilizers from the second half of summer. Cover the ground around the trunks with a thick layer of mulch, and insulate the above-ground part if possible. Hortense does not ask for much attention from you, and she will surely repay for her care with beautiful lush bunches of flowers.

Hydrangea - ornamental shrub with large, stunning beauty, inflorescences. However, for all its splendor, this plant is rarely found in Russian gardens, especially in regions with cold winters. This is due to the reputation of a heat-loving sissy, which is entrenched in the bush. Let's try to figure it out is hydrangea really only adapted to southern climates, or domestic gardeners ignore it in vain. And also consider the features of planting and caring for garden hydrangea in the open field.

All about garden panicle hydrangea (pink, blue, white): types, subtleties of care

Garden hydrangea, it is large-leaved, differs from other varieties in short stature, and at the same time simply in huge lush inflorescences.

Flowers of pink and blue shades delight the eye from July to October. This makes the plant a desirable tool for gardening.

The only drawback of the large-leaved panicle hydrangea is its low resistance to cold. The maximum allowable temperature drop for a plant is –18 degrees.

The correct planting time will help to keep the plant in the harsh winter conditions.

The native land of the shrub is the tropical island of Mauritius. There, as well as in other areas with a warm climate, the plant it is customary to plant in autumn... In our country, this is possible only in the gardens on the Black Sea coast.

And for the Ural region with its harsh winters, it is suitable only spring planting... The hydrangea planted in autumn will not have time to get stronger before the onset of cold weather and will freeze out.

And even if it leaves in spring, it is no longer worth waiting for flowering from such a plant.

In the southern regions, hydrangea is planted in the fall, in the northern regions - in the spring.

When to plant in open ground in the Urals: in autumn or spring?

You can start landing, when the snow has already melted, and a stable temperature of +10 .. + 12 degrees was established, but the buds on the trees have not yet blossomed.

The only option in which the time for planting hydrangeas in open ground shifts closer to summer is to purchase a seedling in a pot with a closed root system in the nursery.

Large-leaved hydrangea - care, shelter for the winter:

Secrets of growing and choosing a place for planting a flower

Half of the success comes from choosing the right landing site. The appearance of the future plant depends on it.

In a sunny area, the hydrangea will bloom earlier, and her inflorescences will be larger than when grown in the shade.

But extreme heat also negatively affects the plant, so it is worth choosing a place where the sun shines brightly before lunch, and from the second half of the day there is partial shade.

Low-lying areas will not work either., or with a close location of groundwater. The shrub is hygrophilous, but due to excessive moisture in the autumn, it becomes even less adapted to winter.

For the same reason, it is recommended to create shelters for it from precipitation in the fall.

There are no special requirements for the soil... It can even be podzolic or sandy. But the plant develops best on loamy soils with neutral or slightly high acidity.

If your soil does not meet the required pH level, you can acidify it with peat or pine needles... Or purchase a ready-made soil mixture, the same ones are suitable for hydrangeas as for azaleas or rhododendrons.

The planting site should be sunny, with acidic soil.

The direct planting process includes the following stages:

1. Dig a hole... For a five-year-old seedling, its size is about 60 cm wide and 40 cm deep. Usually, planting material is used of exactly this age in order to obtain a decorative effect immediately after planting.
2. Make drainage in the fossa from coarse sand and add fertile soil, peat and compost there.
3. Place the seedling in the hole so that the root collar deepens by 2-3 cm, then sprinkle it with earth and tamp it.
4. Water abundantly.
5. Mulch the root zone... To do this, use needles, straw, fallen leaves or expanded clay.

When a hedge is formed from hydrangea bushes, a ditch is dug, and seedlings are planted in it with a distance of 1.5 m between them.

How to care

Caring for an adult plant includes the following steps:

• watering;
• fertilization;
• garter;
• pruning.

Hydrangea loves moisture, therefore she needs regular watering... It is necessary to ensure that the soil underneath does not dry out. In this case, only warm and settled water is used.

With the onset of spring, the shrub needs feeding.... Urea is used first. A solution is prepared from it in a ratio of 20 g per 1 bucket. An adult plant needs 3 buckets of solution.

At the beginning of summer, organic matter should be decomposed under the bush - manure, humus or compost. The last feeding is carried out in the fall, at which time complex mineral fertilizers are recommended.

Fertilization promotes the active growth of the plant, which forms larger leaves and inflorescences.

This, in turn, requires the implementation of the next event - a garter. Tying large branches will keep them from breaking off..

Caring for an adult plant includes watering, pruning, tying and feeding

Pruning

Another important action in the care of hydrangea is pruning.Without pruning the branches, you will not have a beautiful ornamental shrub.

Pruning is in autumn and spring:

1. Autumn assumes pruning of shoots and inflorescences at the end of October. Only a few buds should remain on the bush.
2. In the spring, the bush is thinned out... It is necessary to complete this procedure before the kidneys swell. Annual shoots are shortened to 5 buds, which is optimal for increasing the splendor of the bush. If after winter there are frozen shoots left, they can be safely cut to live wood. In the same year, new inflorescences are formed on them.

Given the plant's inability to tolerate cold, the main event for caring for him is preparing for winter... This is especially true for the northern regions.

Garden hydrangeas - the difference between species and pruning methods:

Preparing for winter

Garden hydrangea won't survive winter without shelter... Moreover, it should be under it long enough until the risk of spring frosts passes.

A plant opened too early may freeze flower buds, and then flowering this year will not take place.

The time to set up the shelter will be late October - early November. But you need to look at the weather, the main thing is to have time to do it before the first serious frost.

A pyramid is being built over the bush any covering material is placed from small boards and on top of the structure - lutrasil, agrotex or some other. For additional insulation, you can also put spruce branches on it.

The root zone is covered with peat, sawdust or dry leaves. And the final stage is carried out with the onset of winter, covering the shelter with snow.

It is necessary to disassemble the shelter gradually, starting in early spring. The last layer of insulation is removed only when a stable positive temperature is established.

A pyramid of small boards is built over the bush and any covering material is placed on top of the structure

Protection against diseases and pests

Garden hydrangea practically not susceptible to any diseases, but this does not mean that she does not need to be looked after. Problems can arise only through the fault of the gardener himself.

Most diseases are spread through seedlings. Therefore, purchase seedlings only in safe places - large nurseries. If you propagate the plant by cuttings, make sure that the parent plant is healthy.

Also, illnesses can be caused by improper care:

1. Lack of feeding... For example, due to a lack of iron, chlorosis develops. It manifests itself in the form of yellow foliage. Preventive measures will be to enrich the soil with iron-containing preparations and water it only with soft rainwater, and not from the tap. To restore an already diseased plant, the drugs Agricol, Ferovit and Brexil are used.
2. Waterlogging, as a result of which fungal diseases are actively spreading. These include white and gray rot, powdery mildew. Preventive spraying of the shrub with fungicides will help not to face this problem. The drug "Fitosporin" has proven itself well in relation to hydrangea, but you can use any other fungicide according to the instructions.

Of the pests on garden hydrangeas, you can find:

1. Snails... The plant is saved from them by mechanical collection, as well as by the preparation "Thunderstorm", which is laid out in a low dish under a bush.
2. Spider mite... A sign of its presence is small yellow specks on the leaves. If the lesion is weak, you can get by by spraying with soapy water (150 g of soap per 1 bucket of water). With a large number of pests, the chemicals "Lightning" and "Vermitic" will help.
3. Aphid... They also fight with it with the help of a soap solution, and in case of severe damage with the preparations "Iskra", "Zubr" or "Commander".

Diseases and pests of hydrangea: chlorosis, white and gray rot, powdery mildew, aphids, spider mites, snails

Growing a garden hydrangea requires some effort.... This is especially true for the northern regions. But the beauty and duration of flowering of this luxurious plant more than pays for all the time and labor costs.

You should not be afraid of his thermophilicity either, with proper care, this southern shrub will feel great in the middle lane, in the Urals and even in Siberia.

We describe planting and caring for hydrangeas in spring and autumn (tree, large-leaved (garden), paniculate and petiolate). Consider the place, soil, planting rules and step-by-step instructions, as well as watering, feeding, pruning and preparing for winter (Moscow region, North-West, Ural, Siberia and southern regions).

Planting hydrangeas in open ground: location, soil, distance and depth

The plant is thermophilic, fast-growing and needs fertile soil and sufficient moisture.

We describe planting in open ground for any type of hydrangea: oak-leaved, large-leaved (garden), paniculate, serrate, tree-like, petiolate, Sargent and others.

Pick-up location

Hydrangea (all types) is a light-loving plant, it grows well in a sunny and open place, but bright sun and strong winds should be avoided. Therefore, at the peak of the heat, light shading is necessary, she very much loves diffused light.

At the same time, the shrub is able to grow well in light partial shade, in this case it later blooms with fewer flowers. It is very important to have sun rays in the morning, in the morning. Therefore, the east side is better suited than the west side.

Soil and acidity

Hydrangea grows well on fertile, humus-rich clay soils. It develops worse on red earth, and sandy soils are contraindicated.

The optimum acidity level is pH 5.2-6.0 (slightly acidic soil). The maximum brightness of inflorescences is observed precisely on acidic soil, and on neutral soil, slow development and pale color.

Alkaline soil leads to chlorosis (yellowing of the leaves). When the bush grows on alkaline soil, there is often a lack of iron and magnesium, which is manifested by light and pale color of the leaves.

Therefore, acidify the soil or treat the bush with iron chelate. In past centuries, gardeners buried iron items (nails, a bank, a horseshoe).

When planting, prepare a special balanced soil mixture with fertilizers.

Soil mix

Compound: humus, sod land, leafy soil and peat - equal parts or humus, garden soil (black soil), peat and sand - 2: 2: 1: 1. And also nutrients: 20-25 grams (tablespoon + teaspoon) of carbamide (urea), 24-29 grams of potassium sulfate (two tablespoons) and 60-70 grams of superphosphate (150-250 grams of bone meal).

If spruce and pine trees grow nearby, then under them you can dig up light, loose and slightly acidic soil. Some gardeners successfully grow flowers in such soil, even without fertilizing when planting.

A complete ban is lime, chalk and wood ash.

Landing distance

Large-leaved - 120-160 cm, and paniculate 140-240 cm between bushes, and from the nearest large shrubs and trees - 230-300 cm. If you want to plant hydrangea in a row (hedge, "mixborder"), you can dig a trench wide 90-110 cm.

If you want to achieve an earlier flowering, then when planting, dig holes closer to each other (70-80 cm), and after 2-3 years, thin out the bushes if necessary.

Landing pit

Depth - 36-45, width - 51-65 cm. The roots grow mainly in breadth, extending much further than the crown.

Planting depth

The root collar should be at the level of the soil, a maximum of 2-3 cm lower, otherwise the flower will develop poorly.

Step-by-step instructions for planting hydrangeas

1. Dig a hole to the correct size 15-30 days before planting.
2. Prepare potting mix and fill in the planting hole.
3. Dig a hole and place the seedling at the desired depth on the cone of the potting soil and spread the roots. Refill the hole gradually and compact the soil.
4. Water the bush with 8-12 liters of water and sprinkle with bark, sawdust or peat - 6-8 cm thick and 16-20 cm in diameter.
5. Protect the flower from direct sunlight during the day and strong winds.

When is the best time to plant hydrangea? Spring or Autumn?

Best planting time: spring - early May and autumn - September. At the same time, the most favorable period to plant hydrangea in cold climates is only spring, and in more southern regions it can be planted in spring and autumn.

Hydrangea care after planting

Preparing for flowering

For the first two years, cut the inflorescences at the bud stage (“pea”). And then the plant will direct all its forces to the development of the root system and the aboveground part, which will ensure better flowering in subsequent years.

• Watering, feeding, pruning and preparing for winter - see the relevant sections.

Hydrangea garden care: growing secrets

Flower care consists of watering, fertilizing, pruning and preparing for winter. Spring is the best time to add mulch to the trunk circle for more moisture retention. Spread sawdust, peat, pine needles or chips 7-8 cm in a layer, with a diameter of 24-30 cm.

Top dressing

When planting hydrangeas in a soil mixture with fertilizers, you do not need to feed for the first two years. The general rule of dressing until July is acidic fertilizers (ammonium sulfate, potassium sulfate), and from July to October potassium-phosphorus fertilizers (bone meal, superphosphate).

The plant's nutrient requirements are high as it grows rapidly and blooms vigorously.

1. Complex food for growth. In the beginning - mid-May, feed with a complex mineral fertilizer - 25-35 grams per 10 liters of water. Or separately a tablespoon (15 grams) of urea + 25-30 grams of superphosphate (2 tablespoons) and a tablespoon (15 grams) of potassium sulfate.
   Mineral fertilizers can be supplemented with organic: infusion of mullein or bird droppings - 1:10. Repeat feeding after 13-16 days.
2. Potassium-phosphorus fertilizing for flowering. 12-16 days before flowering (beginning - mid-June), liquid fertilizing is carried out: dissolve 65-75 grams of superphosphate and 41-49 grams of potassium sulfate in water and pour over the bush.
3. During flowering. Repeat the previous feeding, at the time of mass flowering, to prolong it and ensure the establishment of new flower buds.

• For feeding, it is not recommended to use wood ash. Fertilizers work well for heather species and rhododendron.
• Avoid an excess of nitrogen, which leads to a decrease in winter hardiness, deterioration of flowering and promotes the development of rot. Use only in April - May.
• Important! An overabundance of fertilizers, especially organic ones (mullein, droppings) will do more harm than a lack.

Watering hydrangea

The flower is moisture-loving and needs regular watering. Drought is contraindicated; lack of sufficient moisture leads to developmental disruption.

In dry and hot weather, water every 7-8 days with 15-20 liters of water. The usual schedule is 15-25 liters of water every 13-16 days, and if it is rainy summer, then 4-5 times per season.

The lack of moisture in the fall reduces the winter hardiness of the plant, so if there is little rain in the fall, then additional watering is required.

Periodically add 2-3 grams of potassium permanganate to the water for irrigation to prevent the development of rot. Soft water works best for watering.

We recommend reading: "WATER FOR IRRIGATION OF PLANTS, WHICH IS BETTER?»

It is better to water in the morning or evening in the trunk circle, when there is no scorching sun. After each watering, it is advisable to loosen the soil 5-6 cm deep around the plant.

Pruning hydrangeas correctly: spring and fall

All species tolerate pruning well and need it, but each has its own characteristics. Pruning in the spring can only be carried out from 3-4 years of age. The most common types of hydrangeas in Russian gardens are divided into two groups according to the type of pruning.

Group No. 1 (large-leaved hydrangea (garden), prickly, serrate, oakleaf, Sargent and petiolate)

These species bloom on last year's shoots and need sanitary and cosmetic pruning. The optimal pruning time is as soon as the buds are a little swollen, there is no active movement of juices, plus such trimmed shoots can be rooted. Let's talk about the example of a garden hydrangea.

Large-leaved hydrangea (macrophile) cannot be cut off, but can only be rejuvenated. Every spring, prune every fourth branch over 3 years old, especially the one growing inward, so that the bush does not thicken, as well as dead, weak (thin) or broken stems at the root. Such pruning, in addition to giving a more decorative shape, improves flowering.

Spring pruning of garden hydrangea (large-leaved)

An exception: modern varieties from the series "Forever and ever", "You & Me", as well as varieties "MiniPenny", which bloom on the shoot of the first and previous years. They are pruned depending on the condition of the plant and the past wintering.

• Petiolate hydrangea is poorly pruned: long stems are shortened for better branching.

Group No. 2 (tree and paniculate)

These species blooming on young shoots (current season) are pruned every year before bud break. Best moment: mid to late March (as soon as the snow melts). An annual formative pruning is required, as if the flower thickens, the inflorescences will become smaller.

1. Hydrangea treelike wakes up first. Shoots are cut to 2-3 buds from the ground. On a powerful and mature bush, sometimes only one pair of buds is left. To form a decorative form of the bush, cut off the weak and growing inward shoots.
2. Panicle hydrangea needs more gentle pruning. Last year's shoots are shortened by a third.

Tips

• To thin out the bush, remove the old, weak and growing inward shoots completely annually.
• Cut off the frozen stems to the first living bud.

Bush rejuvenation

It is easy to rejuvenate an old bush with the help of special pruning: cut off all shoots at a height of 5-7 cm from ground level ("under the stump") or to the level of perennial wood. Next spring, young shoots will begin to grow, and the decorative effect of the bush will be restored.

Should I prune my hydrangea for the winter?

In the fall, the faded inflorescences are cut off at the hydrangea without fail, so that the branches do not break under the weight of the snow.

Stamp form

Paniculata hydrangea can be grown in the form of a tree - a low bole. Choose one of the most developed shoot on a two-year-old plant grown from an apical cut, and cut off the rest. Then cut this shoot to the strongest bud every year in the spring, until it reaches 100 cm in height.

To form a crown in the following years, pinch the top of the shoot, and remove the new shoots completely. In the future, weak shoots are cut off annually and only 4-5 strongest branches are left for bushiness.

An example of a standard form of hydrangea paniculata

Hydrangea care in the fall and preparation for winter

After flowering, care for hydrangea in the fall consists in removing faded inflorescences and preparing for winter.

• Treelike hydrangea can not be covered for the winter, mulching is enough - it has high winter hardiness.
• In the conditions of the Middle Belt, Moscow Region, North-West, the Urals and Siberia, be sure to cover the hydrangea for the winter, and it is better to dig up the large-leaved hydrangea, transplant it into pots and bring it into the house.
  Since this species can be grown in areas where the temperature in winter is not lower than -23.5 ° C. The exception is some modern winter-hardy varieties mentioned in the "pruning" section.
• In more southern and warmer areas, hilling and mulching can be dispensed with.

Preparing for winter and sheltering hydrangeas

Inflorescences appear on last year's shoots (large-leaved hydrangea), and the goal is to completely preserve them from frost and damping off.

Since the leaves and flowers of large-leaved hydrangea die from small frosts at night, preparations for winter begin in mid - late October (after the first frost).

• Hydrangea garden paniculate and large-leaved must be covered for the winter.

1. To do this, they spud the bush with earth, and the trunk circle is mulched with rotted manure, needles or peat.
2. Then the stems are bent to the soil and covered with sawdust, spruce branches or dry leaves. And on top of the bush they put a box (box).
3. After the end of the spring frost (April), the winter shelter is dismantled and pruned.
4. It is better to carefully tie a large bush and make a frame shelter ("hut") above it by 8-12 cm and pour dry foliage inside it.

Preparing hydrangeas for winterShelter hydrangea for the winterTop layer of winter shelter for hydrangea

In case of short-term frosts, it is convenient to cover with lutrasil, white burlap or a double layer of film.

Shelter of a large-leaved hydrangea for the winter from a gardener from the Moscow region

1. In the fall, before the arrival of night frosts, cut off all the leaves from the bush. If you leave them, the flower will start to rot. Leave only flower buds at the tips of the branches, with a maximum of two leaves protecting them.
2. Tie all branches on the bush, 3-4 pieces of approximately the same size, into separate bundles with elastic material (elastic, tights, strips of fabric).
3. Bend the bundles as low as possible to the soil and secure with metal staples (electrodes, thick wire). It is necessary to bend the hydrangea to the ground carefully so as not to damage the shoots. In some varieties, they are very lignified and it is better to bend them down gradually, starting with a slight slope.
4. Before the cold weather begins (mid-November), cover the hydrangea with any non-woven material (burlap, agrofibre).
5. Before the onset of severe frosts, remove the cover and cover the flower with dry peat, compost or leafy soil. The base of the bush is less afraid of frost than the fragile tips of the shoots, so it is sprinkled quite a bit.
6. Place arcs over the plant and stretch the covering material again, and put a piece of film on top so that the ends remain open and there is no high humidity inside the winter shelter.

Shelter for the winter of a young hydrangea

Young seedlings are not cut off, but simply brought into the house in pots for the winter or covered with earth and additionally covered with a layer of peat, dry foliage, needles or sawdust for the winter.

When can you open a hydrangea after winter?

In the spring, you need to remove the winter shelter from the hydrangea at the right time to prevent the shoots from drying out.

1. In mid-March, remove the film and covering material, scoop up the peat or soil and cover again with burlap.
2. In early April, when the night frosts end and a stable heat comes, remove the cover from the large-leaved hydrangea completely.

The approximate dates for the Moscow region are indicated.

Hydrangea winter hardiness

Now the large-leaved hydrangea is increasingly grown in the conditions of central Russia and in the Moscow region, in the Urals and Siberia. However, not all winter-hardy varieties are able to bloom in any area due to the different microclimate.

The plant can withstand up to -23 ° C, and the most winter-hardy are treelike, paniculate and ground cover hydrangeas.

The winter hardiness of a plant increases if it received a sufficient amount of water in the fall, as well as potassium-phosphorus fertilization.

Diseases and pests

Hydrangea is very resistant to diseases and pests, but sometimes it is still affected by powdery mildew, spider mites and aphids (more often in greenhouses).

1. HOW TO FIGHT MEALY DEW? INSTRUCTIONS, MEANS AND FUNGICIDES.
2. HOW TO FIGHT AHEADS? FIGHT RULES AND BEST DRUGS!

Why doesn't hydrangea bloom in the garden? What to do?

We will list the most common reasons for not blooming.

1. Deficiency or excess of nutrients, especially nitrogen. With excessive feeding, especially with organic fertilizers, flowering is very difficult to achieve. Apply nitrogen only during active vegetation (April - May).
2. Improper pruning or winterization. The plant blooms on last year's shoots (upper buds).They often suffer from winter chills and are sometimes removed if over-pruned. If you have a large-leaved hydrangea, then read how to properly prune it - the "Pruning" section.
3. Excessive direct sunlight. Diffused light is ideal for hydrangea, but if it grows in a sunny place without shading in the midday heat, then flowering worsens and shortens.

How to speed up hydrangea flowering?

To make the bush bloom faster, sprinkle it as soon as the inflorescences become 2-4 cm in diameter twice with an interval of 5-7 days with gibberellins - 50 mg / liter of water. This treatment allows you to bloom 2-4 weeks earlier and get more massive and decorative flowering.

How to change the color of hydrangea flowers?

The flowers of the plant can change their color depending on the acidity of the soil and the ability to accumulate aluminum.

Water the bush with a solution of potassium alum (100 g / 10 liters of water). To change color, you need to water 3-4 times every 12-15 days. Therefore, watering begins 50-70 days before flowering.

After that, the white or pink flowers (slightly alkaline soil) will turn blue or blue, depending on the concentration. At the same time, alum reduces acidity, so you need to use them carefully. The price of 100 g of alum is about 30-50 rubles.

Helpful Tips for Hydrangea Care

• If you want to dry hydrangea inflorescences for the winter, then cut them off immediately after all the flowers bloom. Tie in small bunches and hang flowers down in a dark place to dry.
• Hydrangea can be grown at home as a pot culture. In the fall, it sheds its leaves, for the winter it is cut off and transferred to a cool place (+ 4-6), and in late February - early March, it is placed in a bright and warm place without direct sunlight. In summer, the flower can be taken out into the open air and left until September.
• Experts advise planting ground cover species in the near-trunk circle: stonecrops, bryophyte saxifrage and others.

ADDITIONS TO THE ARTICLE:

1. REPRODUCTION OF GARDEN HORTENSIA: ALL WAYS!

2. TYPES AND BEST VARIETIES OF HYDRENZIUM WITH PHOTOS AND TITLES!

We wish flowers to cheer you up and make you a little happier!

Hydrangea is the favorite of many gardeners. This is understandable, because this densely flowering bush amazes the imagination with its beauty and does not require special care. Not all varieties are capable of surviving harsh winters outdoors, even under secure shelter. It differs in frost resistance hydrangea... Planting and grooming outdoors is a topic for today's discussion on the farming website.

Content

• 1 Treelike hydrangea - general characteristics
  • 1.1 Features of planting tree hydrangea
  • 1.2 Rules for caring for a tree hydrangea bush
    • 1.2.1 Watch the video: Hydrangea tree - growing, care, planting, reproduction, flowering
• 2 Botanical description
• 3 Getting ready for landing
• 4 Step-by-step instructions for planting panicle hydrangea
• 5 Care after planting
• 6 Types and varieties of hydrangea, photo
• 7 Hydrangea: planting and care in the open field
  • 7.1 Planting hydrangeas
  • 7.2 Features of caring for a shrub
• 8 How to feed hydrangea properly?
  • • 8.0.1 Planting hydrangeas in the ground, video:
• 9 Pruning hydrangeas in spring and fall
  • 9.1 How to transplant a hydrangea in a new place in the fall?
  • 9.2 How to cover a hydrangea for the winter?
• 10 Reproduction of hydrangea
  • • 10.0.1 Propagation of hydrangea by cuttings, video:
• 11 Problems with rust formation
  • 11.1 Lack of flowering
• 12 Garden hydrangea: photos, types, varieties
  • 12.1 Treelike hydrangea - photo
  • 12.2 Hydrangea paniculata - varieties, photo
• 13 Features of growing garden hydrangea
  • 13.1 Planting and leaving
  • 13.2 Watering and feeding
  • 13.3 Pruning hydrangea
  • 13.4 What to do to make the hydrangea change color?
  • 13.5 Preparing hydrangeas for winter
• 14 Diseases and pests of garden hydrangea

Content

• 1 Treelike hydrangea - general characteristics
  • 1.1 Features of planting tree hydrangea
  • 1.2 Rules for caring for a tree hydrangea bush
    • 1.2.1 Watch the video: Hydrangea tree - growing, care, planting, reproduction, flowering
• 2 Botanical description
• 3 Getting ready for landing
• 4 Step-by-step instructions for planting panicle hydrangea
• 5 Care after planting
• 6 Types and varieties of hydrangea, photo
• 7 Hydrangea: planting and care in the open field
  • 7.1 Planting hydrangeas
  • 7.2 Features of caring for a shrub
• 8 How to feed hydrangea properly?
  • • 8.0.1 Planting hydrangeas in the ground, video:
• 9 Pruning hydrangeas in spring and fall
  • 9.1 How to transplant a hydrangea in a new place in the fall?
  • 9.2 How to cover a hydrangea for the winter?
• 10 Reproduction of hydrangea
  • • 10.0.1 Propagation of hydrangea by cuttings, video:
• 11 Problems with rust formation
  • 11.1 Lack of flowering
• 12 Garden hydrangea: photos, types, varieties
  • 12.1 Treelike hydrangea - photo
  • 12.2 Hydrangea paniculata - varieties, photo
• 13 Features of growing garden hydrangea
  • 13.1 Planting and leaving
  • 13.2 Watering and feeding
  • 13.3 Pruning hydrangea
  • 13.4 What to do to make the hydrangea change color?
  • 13.5 Preparing hydrangeas for winter
• 14 Diseases and pests of garden hydrangea
• 15 Garden hydrangea: photos, types, varieties
  • 15.1 Treelike hydrangea - photo
  • 15.2 Hydrangea paniculata - varieties, photo
• 16 Features of growing garden hydrangea
  • 16.1 Planting and leaving
  • 16.2 Watering and feeding
  • 16.3 Pruning hydrangeas
  • 16.4 What to do to make the hydrangea change color?
  • 16.5 Preparing hydrangeas for winter
• 17 Diseases and pests of garden hydrangea
• 18 Planting hydrangeas in open ground: location, soil, distance and depth
  • 18.1 Step-by-step instructions for planting hydrangeas
  • 18.2 When is the best time to plant hydrangea? Spring or Autumn?
  • 18.3 Caring for hydrangea after planting
• 19 Caring for garden hydrangea: growing secrets
  • 19.1 Top dressing
  • 19.2 Watering the hydrangea
• 20 Pruning Hydrangeas Correctly: Spring and Fall
  • 20.1 Group No. 1 (large-leaved hydrangea (garden), prickly, serrate, oakleaf, Sargent and petiolate)
  • 20.2 Group No. 2 (tree and paniculate)
• 21 Caring for hydrangeas in the fall and preparing for winter
  • 21.1 Preparing for winter and sheltering hydrangeas
• 22 Diseases and pests
• 23 Why doesn't hydrangea bloom in the garden? What to do?
  • 23.1 How to change the color of hydrangea flowers?
• 24 Helpful Tips for Hydrangea Care

Treelike hydrangea - general characteristics

In places of natural habitat (South America, China, Japan), hydrangea bushes reach four meters in height. In our country, where the climate is unusual for her, one might say cold, it does not stretch more than 2 m. Treelike hydrangea blooms from July to October, that is, until the very frosts. This is another reason for everyone's love for this shrub.

Inflorescences of treelike hydrangea are large, spherical, painted in white, cream or pink. By the way, the colors may vary. To get the largest flowers, it is imperative to prune the bush in the spring. The most popular among the varieties of tree hydrangea are: Anabel, Pink Anabel, Strong Anabel, Sterilis, Hayest Starburst, Pink Perkushen.

Gorgeous tree hydrangea inflorescence

Features of planting tree hydrangea

Only with the right place and proper care for the tree hydrangea can it fully delight you with its delightful beauty. So what does this graceful garden beauty need?

Correct outdoor location. The first thing to note on this point is the hydrangea's dislike for transplanting. In view of this, try to find a place in the garden or on your garden plot that will turn into a dwelling for the shrub for many years. But what should be the chosen site?

It is advisable that the hydrangea is not located in an open area, where it will constantly be burned by the scorching rays of the sun. The plant will not disappear, but the inflorescences will be small. At the same time, a thick shadow will lead to the fact that there will be few beautiful inflorescences on the bush. In view of this, partial shade is considered an ideal option with the condition that the sun will illuminate the hydrangea only in the morning and evening. You should not plant a bush close to fruit trees, which absorb a huge amount of moisture from the soil.

Suitable soil composition. Hydrangea cannot be called too demanding on the composition of the soil, but the plant still has its own preferences. So, it is most suitable for loamy and fertile soil, with a high level of acidity. It also tolerates alkaline soil well. To increase the acidity, peat, pine needles or sawdust are added to the soil.

The intensity of the color of hydrangea depends on the acidity of the soil.

INTERESTING. The color of hydrangea flowers depends on the acidity of the soil. The higher the acidity, the richer the color. In view of this, gardeners periodically watered with a solution of aluminum sulfate. To prepare a bucket of an acidifying composition, 30 g of a substance is needed.

The choice of a seedling for planting. When choosing seedlings for planting, give preference to those that have the following features:

• height from 0.5 m to 1 m;
• the presence of 2 or 3 live shoots;
• large intact kidneys;
• no damage to the bark.

It is necessary to purchase seedlings for planting that are three or four years old. It is important to consider that seedlings with open roots must be planted immediately after purchase.

Landing time. Treelike hydrangea is transferred to open ground either in spring or autumn. And in fact, and in another case, the earth should be well warmed up. Saplings with a poorly developed root system are best planted in the spring.

Planting a hydrangea tree. If you plant several tree hydrangea bushes, it is important to separate an area for each of them with a diameter of 1-1.5 m.The approximate depth and width of the hole for planting hydrangeas in open ground is 50 cm.You need to focus on the size of the roots - they cannot be bent.

Usually, a drainage layer is placed on the bottom of the hole, consisting of twigs, pebbles or expanded clay. It will be ideal to cover the roots with a composition of humus, peat and compost. The root collar does not need to be deepened underground. After tamping the earth, the bush must be watered with settled water. At the end, it is advisable to mulch the near-stem area for better moisture retention.

See also: Planting action and care in the open field

Rules for caring for a tree hydrangea bush

It is not enough just to plant a hydrangea in open ground and wait for it to delight with its lush flowering. The plant needs some care. You don't have to do anything special, but you can't completely forget about the bush. How to provide proper care for the tree hydrangea?

Watering

Hydrangea is moisture-loving, so watering should be done regularly. During the period of no precipitation, about 30 liters of water should be poured under one bush per week. The created layer of mulch will ensure less rapid evaporation of moisture. The water should be settled, and it should be poured only at the root.

Top dressing

Gardeners say that in the year of planting, hydrangeas do not need to be fertilized. In the spring of the next year, gardeners often use a top dressing consisting of superphosphate, urea and potassium sulfide to fertilize hydrangeas. During the budding period, urea is not added to the top dressing. You can also use mullein infusion. During the period of active flowering, organic fertilizers are poured under the tree hydrangea. With the onset of autumn, the plant ceases to need fertilizer, as it is slowly preparing for hibernation.

Top dressing is an important event for tree hydrangea in the open field

Soil treatment

Loosening the soil is a mandatory maintenance measure. Usually gardeners cultivate an area with a radius of 60 cm. Of course, timely weed control is necessary.

Pruning

When caring for a tree hydrangea, you must not forget about pruning. This activity stimulates the plant's profuse flowering and growth. It is mainly produced in the spring before bud break. All frozen shoots, as well as small and weak ones, are cut off. A shrub over 6 years old can be cut under the base for a rejuvenating effect. On the eve of winter, gardeners do not recommend cutting the plant too much. In the fall, only dried inflorescences can be cut.

Do you think that a tree hydrangea should appear on your personal plot? The outdoor planting and care described in this article hopefully awakened this desire in you. Don't deprive yourself of this pleasure.

Watch the video: Hydrangea tree - growing, care, planting, reproduction, flowering

Hydrangea paniculata is an unusual plant of amazing beauty, which has many species. It can be grown both at home in large pots and in your garden. Today we will tell you everything about planting and caring for hydrangea paniculata in the open field.

Botanical description

In the wild, panicle hydrangea is found in the form of a shrub and small trees up to 10 m in height. Natural habitats are the southern shores of Sakhalin, China and the islands of Japan. Here hydrangea grows in the form of trees.

In our latitudes, hydrangea also grows well, but not more than 3 m in height. She is accustomed to the heat of the south of the country, and to the frosts of the Urals and Siberia. However, the territory of central Russia, the Moscow region, is especially well suited for its cultivation. With proper care, the bush will add 25-30 cm every year.

The panicle hydrangea in the garden looks very picturesque. Flowering begins in early July and lasts until the first frost. Inflorescences up to 30 cm long in shape resemble panicles. Small flowers grow on them, which can be of 2 types:

• bisexual (small in size, after pollination, the petals quickly fall off);
• sterile (about 3 cm, do not fall off for a long time).

In many species of this plant, the petals change color. At first they are creamy, then gradually turn pink, then turn green or red.

The leaves are oval in shape, rather large - they reach 10-12 cm in length. They have a velvety texture, and there is also a slight pubescence. Leaf plates cover the branches abundantly.

Hydrangea paniculata is considered a long-liver. On average, it grows for about 60 years.

The following varieties of panicle hydrangea are most optimal for growing in our territory:

• Pinky Winky;
• Grandiflora;
• Polar bear;
• Kyushu;
• Tardiva;
• Limelight;
• Vanilla fries;
• Phantom;
• Mega Pearl.

Hydrangea varieties are updated every year. You can always choose a suitable variety and plant it on your site. However, before doing this, be sure to find out whether it is suitable for growing in your climate or not.

Hydrangea propagation occurs by seeds, cuttings and layering. This can be done at home, but keep in mind that planting in open ground will not occur until two years. This is a very time consuming and slow process. It is best to buy ready-made seedlings for planting.

Getting ready for landing

Planting hydrangea paniculata, as well as the subsequent care of it, does not require special skills. The shrub grows quickly, begins to bloom for 2-3 years. But still, you should familiarize yourself with the basic rules in order to properly plant a hydrangea in open ground. These include:

1. Landing site. Choose areas that are sheltered from strong winds and with good lighting. It should be borne in mind that it blooms best in partial shade, that is, it will be great if a shrub or tree grows nearby. Best planted on the east side of the garden.
2. Planting dates for hydrangeas. In cold climates, seedlings should be planted in early May, in southern regions in September.
3. Soil and acidity. Hydrangea grows very well on fertile and clayey soils that are rich in humus. It grows worse on red soil. Sandy soils are completely contraindicated. The optimal acidity index is pH 5.3-6.0. That is, the soil should be slightly acidic, so you can ensure the maximum brightness of the inflorescences. On neutral soil, the inflorescences are pale in color, and the bush grows slowly.
4. Purchase of seedlings.Give preference to seedlings only with a closed root system, as it is less likely that they are susceptible to any diseases. Seedlings can be purchased at garden shops and flower fairs.

Step-by-step instructions for planting a panicle hydrangea

The technology of planting paniculate garden hydrangea is as follows:

1. 2-4 weeks before planting, completely clear the area of ​​plant debris and dig it onto the bayonet of a shovel.
2. Dig holes 40-50 cm deep and 70 * 70 cm wide. If you plan to make a hedge, then dig a solid groove of the same size. The distance between the holes can be from 1 m to 2.5 m - it all depends on the specific variety.
3. Prepare your potting mix. The composition includes leafy land, sod land, peat and humus in equal amounts. Nutrients should also be added there: 25 g of potassium sulfate, 70 g of superphosphate and 25 g of urea. Under no circumstances should you add chalk, lime and wood ash.
4. Fill the planting holes with the prepared potting mix.
5. Dig the holes again after 2-4 weeks. For planting, take seedlings of hydrangea 3-4 years. If they were with open roots, then they should be slightly shortened.
6. Place the seedling on the cone of the potting mix at the required depth and carefully fill the hole. The root collar should be at ground level, a maximum of 1–2 cm lower. Tamp the soil with your palms.
7. Water the bush with 10 liters of warm, settled water and mulch. Sawdust, bark or peat work well as mulch.

Below is a photo of planting hydrangea paniculata:

Garden hydrangea is a heat-loving plant that needs fertile soil and sufficient moisture. If you want to grow a strong and healthy shrub, you shouldn't ignore these instructions.

Care after landing

It is impossible to grow panicle hydrangea without proper care. It includes several factors, each of which will be analyzed in more detail:

1. Watering. Hydrangea is a moisture-loving flower. In the absence of a sufficient amount of moisture, developmental disruption occurs, therefore drought is strictly contraindicated. It is recommended to water every 2 weeks with 20 liters of water, in hot weather - once a week, and in a rainy summer - once a month.

2-3 g of potassium permanganate can be added to the water for irrigation to prevent the development of rot. It should be watered in the near-trunk circle in the morning or in the evening, when the scorching sun is not standing. Do not forget to loosen the soil 5 cm deep after each watering and remove weeds.

2. Mulching. After watering, sprinkle the soil with peat chips or pine needles. This will prevent rapid evaporation of moisture.

3. Top dressing. It should be applied often enough, as the shrub is fast flowering. In the spring, water the hydrangea with a urea solution (20 g per 10 liters of water). Pour in at least 20 liters under large bushes.

At the beginning of the growing season, a good result can be achieved by introducing nettle infusion, and then immediately buckets of water. Add mullein solution every 2 weeks. It is simple to prepare: pour a bucket of manure with 3 liters of water and let it brew for 3 days, after which dilute 1 liter of infusion in 10 liters of water and water the bush. When the first buds appear, add 2 mineral dressings (70 g of superphosphate + 45 g of potassium sulfate per 10 liters of water) with a two-week break between each dressing.

4. Pruning in spring and fall. All varieties of panicle hydrangea need pruning. In November, all dry inflorescences should be cut off so that they do not create additional weight on the branches in winter. In the spring, until sap flow has begun, you should completely get rid of incorrectly located and weak shoots. Frost victims should be pruned to a healthy location. Annual shoots should be shortened by a third. On time and correctly cut hydrangea blooms very profusely.

5. Shelter for the winter. After removing the faded inflorescences, it is necessary to prepare for the winter.Treelike panicle hydrangeas do not need to be covered. They are winter-hardy - simple mulching is enough for them. In the conditions of the Moscow region, the Middle zone, the North-West, Siberia and the Urals, the hydrangea must be covered.

To do this, the bush is spud with soil, and the trunk circle should be mulched with needles, rotted manure or peat. After the branches, bend very carefully to the ground so that they do not break. Cover them with spruce branches, sawdust or dry leaves. Place a box or box on top of the bush. Tie large bushes neatly, make a frame shelter (a kind of "hut") and pour dry foliage there. The winter shelter should be disassembled gradually, you can start in April.

Caring for a hydrangea is not as difficult as it seems at first glance. The main thing is to water and feed on time, then the risk of disease and pests will be minimized. Do not forget about pruning, then lush flowering will be ensured.

Panicle hydrangea is able to fit into any landscape design. From it you can grow a hedge, plant in pairs. It will also look great as a single plant.

Experienced summer residents prefer not only to plant seedlings of vegetables in their garden, but also to decorate it with various ornamental shrubs. So, it has gained particular popularity on the territory of Russia hydrangea, planting and caring for which is not difficult.

The advantage of the presented plant is that with little effort you can achieve a very chic result. But experienced gardeners say the secret to success lies in the right choice. shrub varieties... Making a mistake can lead to serious consequences, up to the death of the hydrangea. How to care for a plant correctly?

There is a similar article on this topic - Hydrangea paniculata: planting and care.

Types and varieties of hydrangea, photo

As ordinary people say: "Russia is big!" It is because of the huge area of ​​the country that there is a completely different microclimate here, which directly affects the choice of a plant variety for growing it in your garden plot.

The hydrangea itself has about 80 species, each of which is suitable for growth in a certain latitude of the vast country. This should be taken into account when choosing a shrub for planting in the garden and in the country.

So, among a wide selection, you can select several of the most popular species intended for planting in the gardens of Russia. These include:

Hydrangea Paniculata - "universal" type of plant that easily tolerates even the most severe winters, which makes it popular for planting in Siberia. Here it is enough to cover the shrub with a special covering material. Even if the bush freezes, it will easily recover with the arrival of heat. The presented species is famous for its long flowering, which is extended with proper care throughout the summer and into late autumn.

Hydrangea - includes a small number of varieties, one of which is "Annabelle". A shrub of this variety can grow up to 2 m. It pleases gardeners with large flower caps. The tree-like species is unpretentious and frost-resistant. It makes it possible to grow the presented plant even in the most severe climates.

Hydrangea Large-leaved - also contains several varieties, but differs from many other species in its "capriciousness". This species cannot grow spontaneously, since it requires special attention to itself. It is also not recommended to give preference to this species for planting in harsh climates with cold winters - it cannot withstand low temperatures even under a special covering material. Experienced growers sometimes plant Large-leaved hydrangea in their garden, creating all favorable conditions for it, which allows you to preserve the shrub for a long time.

Hydrangea Pereshkovaya - has a second less common name "Curly".This is the second name and characterizes its growth. The shrub is a slow-growing liana, which, with its suckers, is attached to any support, which contributes to its growth by almost 20 m. The characteristic growth of hydrangea is used to decorate arbors and arches for decorating a summer cottage. Recommended for cultivation in central Russia. With proper care, it easily tolerates cold winters.

Hydrangea Oakleaf - should not be planted in cold regions of Russia, since it does not tolerate severe frosts. It is recommended to plant in the middle zone of the country with a covering material for the winter. Gained popularity for landing in warm regions. Has beautiful decorative leaves. If the plant is frozen in winter and does not bloom during the summer, curly leaves will save the day.

Care and planting of hydrangeas in Siberia will differ significantly from the standard rules and regulations. Basically, special attention should be paid to the choice of the variety, regular feeding and compliance with the requirements for preserving the shrub in winter. If the selection of the variety is carried out correctly, many of the problems and fears of gardeners will disappear.

Hydrangea: planting and care in the open field

Most are in awe of the presented ornamental shrub, but almost no one knows how to care for hydrangeaso that it blooms throughout the summer season and persists through the winter.

All the features of the correct planting and care of the plant, depending on the climate, should be considered.

Planting hydrangeas

The planting of the described ornamental shrub directly depends on the variety planted and the area. In most cases, a semi-shaded area should be selected, therefore, a shrub is often planted near a country house on the east, north or west side.

The soil also affects the further growth of the plant - neutral or alkaline soils should be chosen. For some varieties, lightly acidified soil will work, which can be achieved by placing regular nails in the soil before planting.

The planting of hydrangeas itself also occurs depending on the climate: in spring or autumn. Planting hydrangeas outdoors in autumn can lead to her death in the winter.

The main part of the species of this ornamental shrub requires planting in warm weather, but unfavorable conditions should not be delivered to the plant during the period of getting used to the soil. So, the loss of moisture and excessive drying of the soil will lead to wilting of the new seedling.

Therefore, preference should be given only to grown specimens and planting in early spring. In the summer, it is necessary to water the plant as the soil dries. If hydrangea is grown in warm regions, you can plant a seedling in the fall, and cover it with a special covering material in winter.

The location of the shrubs is calculated depending on the type and variety of hydrangea.

On average, there should be at least 1 m between the pits intended for the location of seedlings.In some cases, the distance should be increased to 2 m.The pits are dug up to half a meter wide and no more than 40 cm deep.

At the initial stage, if necessary, you can scatter fertilizers throughout the entire area, where the hydrangea will be planted in the future. Potassium sulfate or superphosphate is used as fertilizers, which are introduced into the soil to a depth of no more than 10 cm. After some time, you can start planting plants.

Features of caring for a shrub

As mentioned above, hydrangea does not require long and special care. But you should not completely neglect the newly planted plant. Here it is necessary to show a kind of care.

"Attention" includes getting rid of weeds and watering the plant regularly. Weeds are removed only 3 times during the entire flowering season. Do it in the morning or evening. In a hot period, weeds should not be removed - this will lead to the death of the hydrangea.

As necessary, the soil is loosened to provide the root system with a kind of ventilation.

Watering is carried out once a week. In hot weather, it is necessary to provide the bush with moisture twice a week. Water generously so that moisture can reach the deep roots.

How to feed hydrangea properly?

The presented ornamental shrub needs feeding, which should be carried out with a certain regularity. Top dressing is especially important during the period of getting used to the new soil, that is, in the first season after planting. Such actions will help the root system quickly take root in a new place and give out shoots.

So, feed hydrangea follows in accordance with the type and variety. But on average, 4 mandatory dressings are distinguished for the entire spring-summer period of growth and flowering:

• For the first time, the plant is watered with special fertilizers during the period of leaf dissolution or immediately after planting, if it was carried out in the spring. Urea and potassium sulfate are used here. For 10 liters of pure water, there is a tablespoon of each component. One medium bush should "consume" 5 liters of the diluted solution.

• As soon as the hydrangea has pleased its owners with the first flower buds, a second feeding is carried out. Use any suitable flowering mixture. The purchased composition should be diluted in accordance with the instructions.

• The same top dressing can be used for the third procedure, when on each bush it will be possible to find 5 blossoming buds. This happens within 1-2 weeks after the second feeding.

• The fourth and final dressing is applied at the end of flowering. As soon as the petals began to fall off and the bush itself has already thinned out, it must be watered with a diluted solution, for the preparation of which a tablespoon of potassium sulfate is diluted in 10 liters of water. Watered in the same way as in the first case - 5 liters per bush.

Top dressing is very important for hydrangeas, so they should not be neglected. Quite often, gardeners complain about the lack of flowering, which is often explained by the feeding that was not carried out in due time.

Planting hydrangeas in the ground, video:

Pruning hydrangeas in spring and fall

For a beautiful and regular flowering, hydrangea should be pruned in a timely manner. It is necessary to do a similar procedure twice - in spring and autumn. In the spring, pruning involves the elimination of "extra" shoots. Only 8-10 strong representatives are left for further growth. They should also be cut off, leaving only 5-7 buds.

If everything is clear with pruning in the spring, then here how to prune hydrangea in autumn not every experienced gardener knows.

According to experts, all dried shoots should be completely eliminated in the fall. You shouldn't feel sorry for them. Firstly, in winter, under the weight of snow, they will break, and secondly, in the future, faded shoots will not allow new shoots to develop and gain strength.

How to transplant a hydrangea to a new location in the fall?

Hydrangea should be transplanted every year for its favorable growth. This forced measure is a rather stressful situation for the bush itself. To slightly reduce the risks of losing the entire bush during transplanting, it is better to carry out a similar procedure in early spring. So, in the summer and warm period, the shrub will quickly adapt to a new place.

But the preparation for the transplant really should be carried out in the fall. After all the leaves have fallen, the branches of the hydrangea are collected and tied with a rope. A ditch about 20 cm deep is dug around the bush. The ditch is placed in accordance with the size of the root system - a hole is prepared so as not to touch the root branches.

The trench is filled with any compost and left for the whole winter. In the spring, together with the compost, they "pick up" the entire root system and drag it to a new place.

How to cover a hydrangea for the winter?

Before starting to prepare the shrub for winter, you should ensure proper care of hydrangea in autumn... Proper care of an ornamental shrub during the fall includes the following steps:

1. Mulching with peat and humus will provide protection for the plant in winter, and will also play the role of fertilizer in the spring thaw.
2. In this case, the base of the bushes should be earthed up - this way you can "hold" the hydrangea collected in the future.
3. It is necessary to trim. Solve a problem, do i need to prune hydrangea for the winter, only the gardener himself can, having carefully examined his plant for the presence of faded shoots, as well as excess wood.

After the implementation of all the above actions, they are taken for preparation for the winter. If a winter-hardy variety is grown in a summer cottage, it should not be covered. It is enough to collect all the branches, tie them with a rope and bend them to the ground.

When the seedling is young or not intended to grow in harsh and cold climates, you should also bend the bush to the ground and cover it with spruce branches or any other suitable material.

Propagation of hydrangea

The presented ornamental shrub can be propagated in several ways. There are both the most complex and time-consuming methods, for example, seed reproduction, and faster ones.

At home, hydrangea can be propagated like a regular flowering plant - place the cut shoot in water and leave it until young roots appear.

In garden plots, you should resort to one of the following methods:

• The easiest way to propagate hydrangeas is by rooting layers. A cutter is a young shoot that, as it grows, bends to the ground and digs into the ground nearby. In the place of digging into the ground, a small incision should be made in one place. Insert a match into it and bury a previously dug hole 15 cm deep. A root system will appear at the cut point, which will make it possible to grow a new and lush shrub.
• Reproduction by cuttings - can be carried out in summer and autumn. The essence of reproduction is the separation of a 10 cm long stalk with leaves. Propagation of hydrangea by cuttings in the fall is also carried out using shoots with leaves, which must be endowed with strength, so they should be cut in September in a warm season. The shank is placed in a pre-prepared soil, which includes sand, peat and turf, which are used in equal quantities. The stalk is placed in the composition at an inclination to a depth of no more than 5 cm. Rooting takes place in a month, during which the stalk is sprayed.
• In the spring, when transplanting hydrangeas to a new place, it can be propagated using the method of dividing the bush. Immediately after planting young shrubs, they should be watered. Further, the process of caring for the bushes occurs in the same mode. It should be noted that a healthy shrub with a strong root system takes root within a week and already in the first season pleases gardeners with flowering.
• Seed propagation is best used when growing hydrangeas at home. It can take several years to prepare a seed-grown seedling.

To speed up the entire rooting process, regardless of the method, you can use special stimulation formulations. They are purchased in specialized stores.

As gardeners themselves say, in the case of using additional stimulation, the rooting process is twice as fast.

Propagation of hydrangea by cuttings, video:

Rust problems

Hydrangea is often defeated. rust fungithat can infect leaves and root systems. If the root system suffers first of all, then after a while the leaves will also be covered with characteristic yellow spots. In this case, the rescue of the bush may be overdue.

You should also be extremely careful with other plants, as they can also be affected by fungal diseases.

The reasons for the presented problem may be an excess of nitrogen fertilizers or wet weather for a long time. Fight rust on garden hydrangea flowers happens as follows:

• even at the initial stage, it is necessary to monitor compliance with the rules for planting seedlings - no more than 5 bushes per 10x1 m plot;

• it is very important to remove weeds in a timely manner, which can also become carriers of the described rust;

• for top dressing, only phosphorus-potassium fertilizers should be used and nitrogen compositions should not be abused;

• watering must also be done carefully, without moisture getting on the leaves;

• use only settled water for irrigation;

• leaves fallen in the fall can become the cause of rust formation, so they should be removed while preparing the shrub for winter.

The presented actions will be able not only to protect the hydrangea from the formation of rot on the leaves, but also to rid other already affected plants. Also, to remove rust, you can use special compounds that are purchased in specialized stores.

They are used for spraying affected bushes and watering the root system. If rust only affects
some shoots, it is better to cut them off so that the problem does not spread throughout the site.

Lack of flowering

Even experienced gardeners are often unaware of the question, why hydrangea does not bloom... There may be several reasons, but they are all localized in one common problem - improper plant care.

Pay attention to this material - Weigela: planting and care in the open field.

There can be both an incorrect planting with non-compliance with the required distance between the bushes, and untimely watering.

It should be noted that experienced flower growers water their plant up to twice a day during a hot period.

You will be interested in this article - Paniculata hydrangea: planting and care.

The presented aspect depends on the location of the bush: a hydrangea that stays in the sun for a long time needs more watering than a bush growing in partial shade.

All aspects of proper care given in the article must be observed for the growth and flowering of hydrangeas. If there is no blooming, all care actions should be reviewed to identify the causes. Otherwise, the hydrangea will not please with its color splendor.

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Even in a very large garden area, it is impossible not to notice a flower bed decorated with large and multi-colored hydrangea caps. This wonderful beautiful plant is so mesmerizing to the eye that you simply cannot pass by it. Hydrangeas have more than 35 species, among which there are varieties that grow well and winter in the Urals and Siberia. But in whatever latitude of our country your garden is, before buying a beauty, you need to study all the features of planting, caring for and growing it.

Garden hydrangea: photos, types, varieties

Most hydrangea species are shrubs, but there are vines and small trees. All of them have beautiful large or small leaves, and flowers collected in paniculate or corymbose inflorescences. All inflorescences are located at the tops of the shoots and have sterile or fertile flowers. Most often, their color can be white, pink or blue.

Among them, only tree hydrangea and paniculate hydrangea are grown as perennial plants in the gardens of central Russia.

Hydrangea tree - photo

The shrub, which grows up to one and a half meters in height, has large oval leaves, the length of which reaches 20 cm. Slightly pubescent leaf plates are distinguished by a heart-shaped notch at the base and jagged edges along the edges. From above they are green, and from below they have a bluish tint.Large sterile and small fertile flowers are collected in corymbose inflorescences, which bloom in the first half of July.

Most suitable for planting in the garden the following varieties of hydrangea tree-like:

1. Variety "White House" is a bush with a height of one to one and a half meters. At the ends of its shoots, large thyroid inflorescences are formed, consisting of snow-white sterile and creamy white fertile flowers.
2. InvincibelSpirit grows up to 0.9-1.2 m. Its large inflorescences consist of sterile flowers. At first, they have a bright pink color, and over time they fade to light pink.
3. Variety "Incrediboll" is a bush that reaches a height of 1.2-1.5 m, and has large spherical white inflorescences.
4. Heis Starburst is a short bush with slender shoots that can break under the weight of large inflorescences. The inflorescences consisting of double flowers reach 25 cm in diameter.
5. The Annabelle variety blooms with white sterile flowers, which form large inflorescences with a diameter of up to 25 cm.

Hydrangea paniculata - varieties, photo

Panicle hydrangea differs from tree hydrangea in inflorescences, which consist of large sterile and small fertile flowers, and grow up to 20-25 cm in length... During flowering, they can change color. For the first time days, the petals of flowers are white, after a while they acquire a pink tint, and by the end of flowering they turn green. Large leaves of paniculate species are distinguished by an ovoid or elliptical shape. Below they are heavily pubescent, and slightly above.

Garden varieties bloom from June to July, and bloom for a long time. Among them are:

1. Variety "Vanilla Freise" grows up to two meters and is distinguished by a conical inflorescence, on which flowers of a strawberry-pink color are densely located.
2. The Phantom variety is a bush with a spreading crown, growing up to 2.5 m. Its pyramidal large inflorescences have a creamy white hue at the beginning of flowering, and turn pink by autumn.
3. Variety "Pinky-Winky" is a bush up to 1.8 m high, on the shoots of which openwork conical purple-pink inflorescences are formed.
4. The Limelight variety is distinguished by dense greenish inflorescences, which turn pink by the end of the season.
5. The variety "Grandiflora" has been known among gardeners for a long time for its dense inflorescences, which consist of sterile flowers.
6. The Vims Red variety is a beautifully shaped bush that reaches a height of 2 m. From the ground to the very top, it is covered with delicate inflorescences that bloom in June. At first they have a white color, then they become deep pink, and after a while - burgundy-red.
7. The variety "White Lady" is distinguished by white inflorescences, which consist of a few flowers with jagged edges. Grows up to two meters.
8. The Kiushu variety is a bush with delicate inflorescences and erect shoots up to 2.5 m high.
9. The "Great Star" variety is a plant up to two meters in height. Its shoots are strewn with inflorescences, which consist of white flowers with petals in the shape of a "propeller".
10. Earley Sensation is distinguished by its early flowering and dark purple shoots. On its openwork, wide-conical inflorescences, purple-pink flowers are formed.
11. The variety "Diamond Rouge" is a bush up to 1.8 m high. Its dense, large inflorescences very quickly acquire a red hue.
12. The Daruma variety is a low-growing shrub with reddish leaves and small openwork inflorescences. The dark pink flowers become reddish over time.

Features of growing garden hydrangea

Those who decide to grow a hydrangea on their garden plot need follow certain rules her planting, placement and care. It should be remembered that only treelike and panicle hydrangeas grow in Siberia.

Planting and leaving

The plant loves well-lit areas with little shade.In sunny areas, hydrangeas grow well and bloom quickly, but from excessive heat they suffer from drying out of the soil and lose their turgor. Small inflorescences are formed in full shade.

The soil for planting shrubs must have an acidic reaction. Alkaline soil plant will suffer from chlorosis and bloom poorly... Neutral soil for hydrangea is unacceptable.

Hydrangeas planted on nutritious loams will take root well and will grow. Therefore, it is recommended to add clay during planting at the bottom of the pit.

Hydrangea belongs to moisture-loving plants, however, it is not recommended to plant it in areas with a high groundwater level. In addition, the wintering of the shrub directly depends on the moisture intake of the plant roots. The less moisture they accumulate in the fall, the better the plant will overwinter. That is why in autumn the soil around the bushes must be partially covered from precipitation.

Planting garden hydrangeas is done in the spring in pits, approximate the dimensions of which should be 50x50x70 cm... The plant is planted after the last frost has passed.

Store-bought plants with a closed root system can be planted until the end of summer, preparing deeper and wider pits for them. After planting, the bushes are well watered, and the soil around them is 6 cm covered with sawdust or peat mulch.

The distance between plants should be from one to one and a half meters. If the group planting was conceived as a "hedge", then the bushes are planted more densely.

Watering and feeding

During the season in the open field, the bushes are watered once a week. In hot months, the frequency of watering increases up to 2 times a week.

Hydrangea care includes mandatory feeding, which produced twice a year:

1. In May or June, during the budding period, the plant is fed with nitrogen fertilizers.
2. In summer, the bushes need potassium, which is added according to the instructions.

It is better not to apply ash under hydrangea bushes, since it reduces the acidity of the soil.

Pruning hydrangea

When caring for a hydrangea, you need to be especially careful about pruning a shrub. Pruning is done every spring. Some growers cut the bushes very short, as a result of which they are removed most flower buds... This cannot be done. It is recommended to approach each bush individually.

First of all, the frozen parts of the shoots are cut out from the plant. If after this there are enough powerful shoots, then last year's branches can be cut to the upper branch. With a small number of annual shoots, only inflorescences are removed from the faded branches.

Too old and thickening shoots are completely cut out. Annual shoots are not recommended to be cut out at all. It should be noted that inflorescences for bouquets can be cut during the entire period until autumn.

What to do to make the hydrangea change color?

Experienced flower growers know that by feeding bushes with pink inflorescences with certain fertilizers, as a result, you can get a plant, blooming with blue or blue flowers... To do this, starting in September, once every two weeks, the following is added to the soil:

• aluminum alum solution (2 pcs. for 1 liter of water);
• iron or aluminum sulfate (20-50 g).

If fertilizers are applied irregularly, then both blue and pink inflorescences will begin to form on the shrub.

Preparing hydrangeas for winter

Unfortunately, without shelter in the Urals and Siberia, hydrangea will not be able to overwinter. Therefore, caring for her in regions with cold winters includes preparing bushes for wintering.

Before sheltering the plants, it is necessary to feed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers and remove all the leaves from them, leaving only the upper ones. This will help speed up the process of lignification of the shoots.

Paniculate and tree hydrangea grown in the southern regions can be simply huddle high or cover with peat... For regions with unpredictable and cold winters, you can choose one of the proposed methods:

1. Cover the trunk circle with spruce branches. Bend the shoots away from the center, secure with staples and cover with spruce branches. Cover the center of the bush with peat. Lutrasil is laid on top, which is pressed with bricks or boards.
2. Young small bushes are tied with a rope and carefully, without haste, are attracted and tied to boards lying on the ground, into which nails are driven. From above, the plants are thrown with sawdust or spruce branches, and covered with spunbond, lutrasil or a sheet of iron.
3. It will be difficult to pull powerful bushes to the ground, so a different method of shelter is used for them. The shoots are wrapped in lutrasil, fixed with tape or rope. A metal mesh is installed around the bush. Dry leaves are thrown inside the armament, and everything is covered with polyethylene or roofing felt from above. The frame should be 10-15 cm higher than the bushes.

When growing hydrangeas, you should know that every year it winter hardiness increases... Therefore, in some regions, over time, you can refuse to shelter bushes for the winter. But it is imperative to cover young plants.

Diseases and pests of garden hydrangea

The plant is resistant to diseases and pests, however, may be amazed:

1. Aphids, which can be driven away by infusion of garlic. To do this, 200 g of chopped garlic is infused in a bucket of water for two days. You can add 40 g of laundry soap to the solution, and spray the plant once every 5-7 days.
2. Powdery mildew infects hydrangeas with excess air humidity. When it appears, the plant is treated with a solution of copper sulfate with soap or special fungicidal agents.
3. Sharply clarified hydrangea leaves indicate plant chlorosis. The leaves can lose their natural color due to the excessive content of humus or lime in the soil. Chlorosis is eliminated by alternately watering the plant every three days with copper sulfate and potassium nitrate.

The most beautiful hydrangea plant is excellent suitable for single and group plantings, goes well with low conifers and looks great against the background of stones. With proper planting and caring for it, you can admire the magnificent flowering and be proud of your flower garden all summer until autumn.

Garden hydrangea

Even in a very large garden area, it is impossible not to notice a flower bed decorated with large and multi-colored hydrangea caps. This wonderful beautiful plant is so mesmerizing to the eye that you simply cannot pass by it. Hydrangeas have more than 35 species, among which there are varieties that grow well and winter in the Urals and Siberia. But in whatever latitude of our country your garden is, before buying a beauty, you need to study all the features of planting, caring for and growing it.

Garden hydrangea: photos, types, varieties

Most types of hydrangeas are shrubs, but there are vines and small trees. All of them have beautiful large or small leaves, and flowers collected in paniculate or corymbose inflorescences. All inflorescences are located at the tops of the shoots and have sterile or fertile flowers. Most often, their color can be white, pink or blue.

Among them, only tree hydrangea and paniculate hydrangea are grown as perennial plants in the gardens of central Russia.

Hydrangea tree - photo

The shrub, which grows up to one and a half meters in height, has large oval leaves, the length of which reaches 20 cm. Slightly pubescent leaf plates are distinguished by a heart-shaped notch at the base and jagged edges along the edges. From above they are green, and from below they have a bluish tint. Large sterile and small fertile flowers are collected in corymbose inflorescences, which bloom in the first half of July.

Most suitable for planting in the garden the following varieties of hydrangea tree-like:

1. Variety "White House" is a bush with a height of one to one and a half meters. At the ends of its shoots, large thyroid inflorescences are formed, consisting of snow-white sterile and creamy white fertile flowers.
2. InvincibelSpirit grows up to 0.9-1.2 m. Its large inflorescences consist of sterile flowers. At first, they have a bright pink color, and over time they fade to light pink.
3. Variety "Incrediboll" is a bush that reaches a height of 1.2-1.5 m, and has large spherical white inflorescences.
4. Heis Starburst is a short bush with slender shoots that can break under the weight of large inflorescences. The inflorescences consisting of double flowers reach 25 cm in diameter.
5. The Annabelle variety blooms with white sterile flowers, which form large inflorescences with a diameter of up to 25 cm.

Hydrangea paniculata - varieties, photo

Panicle hydrangea differs from tree hydrangea in inflorescences, which consist of large sterile and small fertile flowers, and grow up to 20-25 cm in length... During flowering, they can change color. For the first time days, the petals of flowers are white, after a while they acquire a pink tint, and by the end of flowering they turn green. Large leaves of paniculate species are distinguished by an ovoid or elliptical shape. Below they are heavily pubescent, and slightly above.

Garden varieties bloom from June to July, and bloom for a long time. Among them are:

1. Variety "Vanilla Freise" grows up to two meters and is distinguished by a conical inflorescence on which flowers of a strawberry-pink color are densely located.
2. The Phantom variety is a bush with a spreading crown, growing up to 2.5 m. Its pyramidal large inflorescences have a creamy white hue at the beginning of flowering, and turn pink by autumn.
3. Variety "Pinky-Winky" is a bush up to 1.8 m high, on the shoots of which openwork conical purple-pink inflorescences are formed.
4. The Limelight variety is distinguished by dense greenish inflorescences, which turn pink by the end of the season.
5. The variety "Grandiflora" has been known among gardeners for a long time for its dense inflorescences, which consist of sterile flowers.
6. The Vims Red variety is a beautifully shaped bush that reaches a height of 2 m. From the ground to the very top, it is covered with delicate inflorescences that bloom in June. At first they have a white color, then they become deep pink, and after a while - burgundy-red.
7. The variety "White Lady" is distinguished by white inflorescences, which consist of a few flowers with jagged edges. Grows up to two meters.
8. The Kiushu variety is a bush with delicate inflorescences and erect shoots up to 2.5 m high.
9. The Great Star variety is a plant up to two meters in height. Its shoots are strewn with inflorescences, which consist of white flowers with petals in the shape of a "propeller".
10. Earley Sensation is distinguished by its early flowering and dark purple shoots. On its openwork, wide-cone-shaped inflorescences, purple-pink flowers are formed.
11. The variety "Diamond Rouge" is a bush up to 1.8 m high. Its dense, large inflorescences very quickly acquire a red hue.
12. The Daruma variety is a low-growing shrub with reddish leaves and small openwork inflorescences. The dark pink flowers become reddish over time.

Features of growing garden hydrangea

Those who decide to grow a hydrangea on their garden plot need follow certain rules her planting, placement and care. It should be remembered that only treelike and panicle hydrangeas grow in Siberia.

Planting and leaving

The plant loves well-lit areas with little shade. In sunny areas, hydrangeas grow well and bloom quickly, but from excessive heat they suffer from drying out of the soil and lose their turgor. Small inflorescences are formed in full shade.

The soil for planting shrubs must have an acidic reaction. Alkaline soil plant will suffer from chlorosis and bloom poorly... Neutral soil for hydrangea is unacceptable.

Hydrangeas planted on nutritious loams will take root well and will grow. Therefore, it is recommended to add clay during planting at the bottom of the pit.

Hydrangea belongs to moisture-loving plants, however, it is not recommended to plant it in areas with a high groundwater level. In addition, the wintering of the shrub directly depends on the moisture intake of the plant roots. The less moisture they accumulate in the fall, the better the plant will overwinter. That is why in autumn the soil around the bushes must be partially covered from precipitation.

Planting garden hydrangeas is done in the spring in pits, approximate the dimensions of which should be 50x50x70 cm... The plant is planted after the last frost has passed.

Store-bought plants with a closed root system can be planted until the end of summer, preparing deeper and wider pits for them. After planting, the bushes are well watered, and the soil around them is 6 cm covered with sawdust or peat mulch.

The distance between plants should be from one to one and a half meters. If the group planting was conceived as a "hedge", then the bushes are planted more densely.

Watering and feeding

During the season in the open field, the bushes are watered once a week. In hot months, the frequency of watering increases up to 2 times a week.

Hydrangea care includes mandatory feeding, which produced twice a year:

1. In May or June, during the budding period, the plant is fed with nitrogen fertilizers.
2. In summer, the bushes need potassium, which is added according to the instructions.

It is better not to apply ash under hydrangea bushes, since it reduces the acidity of the soil.

Pruning hydrangea

When caring for a hydrangea, you need to be especially careful about pruning a shrub. Pruning is done every spring. Some growers cut the bushes very short, as a result of which they are removed most flower buds... This cannot be done. It is recommended to approach each bush individually.

First of all, the frozen parts of the shoots are cut out from the plant. If after this there are enough powerful shoots, then last year's branches can be cut to the upper branch. With a small number of annual shoots, only inflorescences are removed from the faded branches.

Too old and thickening shoots are completely cut out. Annual shoots are not recommended to be cut out at all. It should be noted that inflorescences for bouquets can be cut during the entire period until autumn.

What to do to make the hydrangea change color?

Experienced flower growers know that by feeding bushes with pink inflorescences with certain fertilizers, as a result, you can get a plant, blooming with blue or blue flowers... To do this, starting in September, once every two weeks, the following is added to the soil:

• aluminum alum solution (2 pcs. for 1 liter of water);
• iron or aluminum sulfate (20-50 g).

If fertilizers are applied irregularly, then both blue and pink inflorescences will begin to form on the shrub.

Preparing hydrangeas for winter

Unfortunately, without shelter in the Urals and Siberia, hydrangea will not be able to overwinter. Therefore, caring for her in regions with cold winters includes preparing bushes for wintering.

Before sheltering the plants, it is necessary to feed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers and remove all the leaves from them, leaving only the upper ones. This will help speed up the process of lignification of the shoots.

Paniculate and tree hydrangea grown in the southern regions can be simply huddle high or cover with peat... For regions with unpredictable and cold winters, you can choose one of the proposed methods:

1. Cover the trunk circle with spruce branches. Bend the shoots away from the center, secure with staples and cover with spruce branches. Cover the center of the bush with peat. Lutrasil is laid on top, which is pressed with bricks or boards.
2. Young small bushes are tied with a rope and carefully, without haste, are attracted and tied to boards lying on the ground, into which nails are driven. From above, the plants are thrown with sawdust or spruce branches, and covered with spunbond, lutrasil or a sheet of iron.
3. It will be difficult to pull powerful bushes to the ground, so a different method of shelter is used for them. The shoots are wrapped in lutrasil, fixed with tape or rope. A metal mesh is installed around the bush. Dry leaves are thrown inside the armament, and everything is covered with polyethylene or roofing felt from above. The frame should be 10-15 cm higher than the bushes.

When growing hydrangeas, you should know that every year it winter hardiness increases... Therefore, in some regions, over time, you can refuse to shelter bushes for the winter. But it is imperative to cover young plants.

Diseases and pests of garden hydrangea

The plant is resistant to diseases and pests, however, may be amazed:

1. Aphids, which can be driven away by infusion of garlic. To do this, 200 g of chopped garlic is infused in a bucket of water for two days. You can add 40 g of laundry soap to the solution, and spray the plant once every 5-7 days.
2. Powdery mildew infects hydrangeas with excess air humidity. When it appears, the plant is treated with a solution of copper sulfate with soap or special fungicidal agents.
3. Sharply clarified hydrangea leaves indicate plant chlorosis. The leaves can lose their natural color due to the excessive content of humus or lime in the soil. Chlorosis is eliminated by alternately watering the plant every three days with copper sulfate and potassium nitrate.

The most beautiful hydrangea plant is excellent suitable for single and group plantings, goes well with low conifers and looks great against the background of stones. With proper planting and caring for it, you can admire the magnificent flowering and be proud of your flower garden all summer until autumn.

Garden hydrangea

Do you want to decorate your garden with an unusual shrub? Try planting a hydrangea flower, planting and caring for which in the open field is simple, reproduction and growing of hydrangea is possible even for novice gardeners. You can find a fantastically beautiful flower by reading the description of the variety and considering its combination with other plants in landscape design. In the photo, the hydrangea looks like the queen of the garden.

Varieties and varieties of hydrangea

Hydrangea is an undoubted favorite among flowers in summer cottages. A long flowering period, a variety of shapes and tones attract special attention to it from gardeners and designers; more and more often, various varieties of this perennial are used in landscape design.

Blue hydrangea

Hydrangeas can be spherical, racemose, and white, lilac, red, two-colored in color. The most common in our latitudes is the tree hydrangea. Unpretentious, fairly easy to care for and grow, the plant is recommended for novice gardeners. Several varieties of shrubs have been bred by breeders:

• Bella Anna - a new variety of tree hydrangea, has rather large spherical inflorescences, the crown grows up to three meters in diameter, the color of the petals is from pale pink to purple-pink, blooms throughout the summer season and September;

Bella Anna variety

• "Anabel" - a lush blooming, spreading shrub about 1.5 m high, inflorescences in the form of a ball of snow-white color, blooms in early July and retains its color throughout the summer season until September. After the end of flowering, the leaves of the plant remain bright green throughout the fall. Variety "Anabel" is adapted for wintering, does not require special shelter for the winter, frost-resistant;

"Anabel"

• "Grandiflora" - differs in large crystal-white inflorescences, blooms for 4 months;

"Grandiflora"

• "Invincibel Spirit" - a new variety of hydrangea with pink petals;

"Invisibel Spirit"

• "Sterilis" - a variety with hemispherical, dense, heavy inflorescences, during the flowering period - from July to October - the petals radically change color: from pale green to crystal white.

"Sterilis"

Also, a fairly common perennial variety - Panicle hydrangea, planting and caring for which is quite simple. This flower is attractive with inflorescences of an unusual - paniculate - shape, frost-resistant, characterized by rapid recovery even in unfavorable climatic conditions. An interesting feature of this hydrangea variety is the particularly long flowering period, during which the inflorescence changes its color. Does not need mulching for the winter. The most common varieties of panicle hydrangea are:

• Vanilla Fraze - variety with pale white and pink petals;

"Vanilla Fries"

• "Limelight" - the plant blooms in autumn, differs in large inflorescences of a pale lemon shade;

"Limelight"

• "Pinky Winky" - hydrangea with soft red petals.

"Pinky Winky"

How to plant correctly

Growing hydrangeas in the open field is possible even for novice gardeners. If a hydrangea is chosen for a flower garden, planting and caring for it will never be a burden, they will become favorite activities. The correct location should be chosen for planting the shrub. Hydrangea does not tolerate long shading, the best place to plant it is on the sunny side. Hydrangea propagation is carried out by separate bushes or cuttings. It is recommended to plant a flower in spring (in May) or in autumn (in warm September).

Even a novice gardener can plant a hydrangea.

To plant a hydrangea with a bush in the open field, you need to dig a planting hole about 60 cm deep, about half a meter wide and long. The distance between the bushes is at least 1.5 meters. A flower, growing with proper care, will occupy a much larger area than when planted. The pits should be filled with a special mixture, including peat, sand, soil, humus (1: 1: 2: 2) and fertilizers (landscape design experts recommend combining 20 g of urea, potassium sulphide each, add about 60 g of superphosphate in granules and 10 kg of humus ).

Attention: do not add lime to the soil mixture for hydrangea - it is detrimental to this plant.

When planting, it should be borne in mind that the root collar of the plant should be at ground level. After planting the hydrangea in open ground, it must be watered abundantly.

Tip: For the first two flowering seasons, it is recommended to pick off the inflorescences. The root system of the plant will get stronger and grow, which will subsequently give the bush strength and splendor.

Suitable care

Hydrangea care consists in weeding and loosening the soil around it, organizing a timely and correct watering regime. In addition, to prevent rapid evaporation of moisture, it is recommended to mulch the bush in early summer with peat or sawdust.

Fading flowers must be cut off so that they do not pull strength from the plant.

A perennial needs proper pruning. The plant should be pruned in the spring before the beginning of the growing season, removing old shoots and leaving young and strong ones, shortening them by 3-5 buds. Faded and dried bush inflorescences must be removed. Old perennial bushes must be cut almost at the root, leaving only low stumps, from which young shoots will develop.

Fertilizing and fertilizing hydrangeas

The hydrangea planted in prepared and fertilized soil for the first two years can not be fertilized or fed.
Then the procedure for feeding hydrangeas is as follows:

• in the spring it is necessary to apply a complex fertilizer containing micro- and macroelements (phosphorus, potassium, nitrogen) under each bush;
• the second time in a season, top dressing (potassium sulfate together with superphosphate) is applied during the period when buds appear on the bush;
• a couple of times it is advisable to feed the perennial with diluted chicken droppings or cow dung.

Hydrangea responds very well to feeding

Caution: Excessive fertilization of nitrogen can lead to greening of hydrangea petals and problems with the wintering of the plant.

It should also be borne in mind that hydrangea responds well to lactic acid, therefore it is important when growing it to periodically water the bush with soaked sour bread, milk whey, sour milk, kefir.

Propagation of hydrangea

Like other perennial shrubs, hydrangea can be propagated vegetatively (by cuttings, dividing the bush, layering) and seeds.

To grow shrubs from cuttings, it is necessary to cut the tops of young non-lignified shoots in mid-July and root them in specially prepared soil, consisting of coarse sand and peat. Experts recommend taking measures to increase soil moisture under the cuttings. For this, sphagnum moss is added to it. Cuttings are planted in such soil a little at an angle, at a small (up to 5 cm) distance and provide them with a temperature regime in the range of 16-20 ° C. 4-5 weeks are enough for rooting. After that, the hydrangea is planted in a permanent growing area and provided with proper care.

Propagation of hydrangea by cuttings

When the hydrangea propagates by dividing the bush, part of it is separated, while it is important that there are 2-3 buds on the young shoots, they are dug up and transplanted to a new place.

For the propagation of hydrangeas by layering, it is necessary to bend one of the young shoots of the growing bush to the ground and dig it into a previously dug hole (up to 15-20 cm deep). In order to prevent the shoot from straightening, it can be fixed with staples. Experienced gardeners recommend making an incision on the part of the shoot that will be in the ground to speed up the rooting process. It is necessary to regularly water the branch, it can also be mulched. After the formation of its own root system at the branch, it is separated from the mother bush and planted in a new place.

Propagation of hydrangea by layering

Diseases and pests

As a rule, hydrangea is quite resistant to all sorts of pests and diseases. However, it can also become infected with chlorosis, downy mildew, spider mites, and green leaf aphids can appear on it.

Chlorosis is expressed in a sharp lightening of the leaves of the plant, the loss of their natural color. The reason for its development is the excessive content of lime or humus in the soil. To eliminate chlorosis, it is enough to water the plant with solutions of nitric acid potassium and copper sulfate in turn with an interval of three days.

Hydrangea disease - chlorosis

The cause of hydrangea disease with downy mildew is excess air humidity. For treatment, it is recommended to treat the hardwood surface with a solution of copper sulfate with the addition of soap.

Garlic infusion will help drive aphids from the plant. It is necessary to prepare a garlic infusion (200 g of chopped garlic in a bucket of water, let it brew for 2 days), add laundry soap (40 g) and irrigate the perennial with this infusion every 5-7 days until the aphids are destroyed.

Hydrangea: combination with other plants

In a flower garden or garden, hydrangea is quite effective both by itself and in combination with other flowers. For example, panicle hydrangea looks great next to clumps of purple-leaved barberries, viburnum vesicle. The beauty of the tree-like hydrangea is emphasized by daylilies, sheared barberry, undersized juniper.

Hydrangea in the design of the flower bed

Hydrangea in landscape design

Hydrangea is a fantastically beautiful flower that inspires beautiful compositions in landscaping. Taking into account the climatic conditions, in our latitudes it is recommended to plant a tree-like, paniculate and petiolate hydrangea. Hydrangea looks magical in the photo in large compositions when it grows in the squares, surprising everyone with the size and beauty of its inflorescences.To emphasize the beauty of hydrangea, you can surround it with borders of spirits, cotoneaster, and other shrubs. The hydrangea should be planted in a flower garden in the background so that it does not obscure other plants.

Hydrangea in landscape design

It is not recommended to combine hydrangea with yellow, red, orange flowers. Plants with bluish flowers, needles or leaves can successfully shade a shrub - for example, clematis, cereals, hosts, stunted junipers.
A classic landscape design is the combination of hydrangea with pink phlox with a round shape of inflorescences, thujas, microbiota. Also hydrangea is used in mixborders to create compositions along garden paths, can be grown as a hedge.

Hydrangea is the basis of a beautiful garden. With proper care, it will delight you for years to come. Experiment with different varieties of this shrub, try to decorate your gazebo with climbing hydrangea, plant a tree-like one along the paths, create a living fence using a paniculata.

Garden hydrangea care: video

Garden hydrangea: photo

We describe planting and caring for hydrangeas in spring and autumn (tree, large-leaved (garden), paniculate and petiolate). Consider the place, soil, planting rules and step-by-step instructions, as well as watering, feeding, pruning and preparing for winter (Moscow region, North-West, Ural, Siberia and southern regions).

Planting hydrangeas in open ground: location, soil, distance and depth

The plant is thermophilic, fast-growing and needs fertile soil and sufficient moisture.

We describe planting in open ground for any type of hydrangea: oak-leaved, large-leaved (garden), paniculate, serrate, tree-like, petiolate, Sargent and others.

Pick-up location

Hydrangea (all types) is a light-loving plant, it grows well in a sunny and open place, but bright sun and strong winds should be avoided. Therefore, at the peak of the heat, light shading is necessary, she very much loves diffused light.

At the same time, the shrub is able to grow well in light partial shade, in this case it later blooms with fewer flowers. It is very important to have sun rays in the morning, in the morning. Therefore, the east side is better suited than the west side.

Soil and acidity

Hydrangea grows well on fertile, humus-rich clay soils. It develops worse on red earth, and sandy soils are contraindicated.

The optimum acidity level is pH 5.2-6.0 (slightly acidic soil). The maximum brightness of inflorescences is observed precisely on acidic soil, and on neutral soil, slow development and pale color.

Alkaline soil leads to chlorosis (yellowing of the leaves). When the bush grows on alkaline soil, there is often a lack of iron and magnesium, which is manifested by light and pale color of the leaves.

Therefore, acidify the soil or treat the bush with iron chelate. In past centuries, gardeners buried iron items (nails, a bank, a horseshoe).

When planting, prepare a special balanced soil mixture with fertilizers.

Soil mix

Compound: humus, sod land, leafy soil and peat - equal parts or humus, garden soil (black soil), peat and sand - 2: 2: 1: 1. And also nutrients: 20-25 grams (tablespoon + teaspoon) of carbamide (urea), 24-29 grams of potassium sulfate (two tablespoons) and 60-70 grams of superphosphate (150-250 grams of bone meal).

If spruce and pine trees grow nearby, then under them you can dig up light, loose and slightly acidic soil. Some gardeners successfully grow flowers in such soil, even without fertilizing when planting.

A complete ban is lime, chalk and wood ash.

Landing distance

Large-leaved - 120-160 cm, and paniculate 140-240 cm between bushes, and from the nearest large shrubs and trees - 230-300 cm. If you want to plant hydrangea in a row (hedge, "mixborder"), you can dig a trench wide 90-110 cm.

If you want to achieve an earlier flowering, then when planting, dig holes closer to each other (70-80 cm), and after 2-3 years, thin out the bushes if necessary.

Landing pit

Depth - 36-45, width - 51-65 cm. The roots grow mainly in breadth, extending much further than the crown.

Planting depth

The root collar should be at the level of the soil, a maximum of 2-3 cm lower, otherwise the flower will develop poorly.

Step-by-step instructions for planting hydrangeas

1. Dig a hole to the correct size 15-30 days before planting.
2. Prepare potting mix and fill in the planting hole.
3. Dig a hole and place the seedling at the desired depth on the cone of the potting soil and spread the roots. Refill the hole gradually and compact the soil.
4. Water the bush with 8-12 liters of water and sprinkle with bark, sawdust or peat - 6-8 cm thick and 16-20 cm in diameter.
5. Protect the flower from direct sunlight during the day and strong winds.

When is the best time to plant hydrangea? Spring or Autumn?

Best planting time: spring - early May and autumn - September. At the same time, the most favorable period to plant hydrangea in cold climates is only spring, and in more southern regions it can be planted in spring and autumn.

Hydrangea care after planting

Preparing for flowering

For the first two years, cut the inflorescences at the bud stage (“pea”). And then the plant will direct all its forces to the development of the root system and the aboveground part, which will ensure better flowering in subsequent years.

• Watering, feeding, pruning and preparing for winter - see the relevant sections.

Hydrangea garden care: growing secrets

Flower care consists of watering, fertilizing, pruning and preparing for winter. Spring is the best time to add mulch to the trunk circle for more moisture retention. Spread sawdust, peat, pine needles or chips 7-8 cm in a layer, with a diameter of 24-30 cm.

Top dressing

When planting hydrangeas in a soil mixture with fertilizers, you do not need to feed for the first two years. The general rule of dressing until July is acidic fertilizers (ammonium sulfate, potassium sulfate), and from July to October potassium-phosphorus fertilizers (bone meal, superphosphate).

The plant's nutrient requirements are high as it grows rapidly and blooms vigorously.

1. Complex food for growth. In the beginning - mid-May, feed with a complex mineral fertilizer - 25-35 grams per 10 liters of water. Or separately a tablespoon (15 grams) of urea + 25-30 grams of superphosphate (2 tablespoons) and a tablespoon (15 grams) of potassium sulfate.
   Mineral fertilizers can be supplemented with organic: infusion of mullein or bird droppings - 1:10. Repeat feeding after 13-16 days.
2. Potassium-phosphorus fertilizing for flowering. 12-16 days before flowering (beginning - mid-June), liquid fertilizing is carried out: dissolve 65-75 grams of superphosphate and 41-49 grams of potassium sulfate in water and pour over the bush.
3. During flowering. Repeat the previous feeding, at the time of mass flowering, to prolong it and ensure the establishment of new flower buds.

• For feeding, it is not recommended to use wood ash. Fertilizers work well for heather species and rhododendron.
• Avoid an excess of nitrogen, which leads to a decrease in winter hardiness, deterioration of flowering and promotes the development of rot. Use only in April - May.
• Important! An overabundance of fertilizers, especially organic ones (mullein, droppings) will do more harm than a lack.

Watering hydrangea

The flower is moisture-loving and needs regular watering. Drought is contraindicated; lack of sufficient moisture leads to developmental disruption.

In dry and hot weather, water every 7-8 days with 15-20 liters of water. The usual schedule is 15-25 liters of water every 13-16 days, and if it is rainy summer, then 4-5 times per season.

The lack of moisture in the fall reduces the winter hardiness of the plant, so if there is little rain in the fall, then additional watering is required.

Periodically add 2-3 grams of potassium permanganate to the water for irrigation to prevent the development of rot.Soft water works best for watering.

We recommend reading: "WATER FOR IRRIGATION OF PLANTS, WHICH IS BETTER?»

It is better to water in the morning or in the evening in the trunk circle, when there is no scorching sun. After each watering, it is advisable to loosen the soil 5-6 cm deep around the plant.

Pruning hydrangeas correctly: spring and fall

All species tolerate pruning well and need it, but each has its own characteristics. Pruning in the spring can only be carried out from 3-4 years of age. The most common types of hydrangeas in Russian gardens are divided into two groups according to the type of pruning.

Group No. 1 (large-leaved hydrangea (garden), prickly, serrate, oakleaf, Sargent and petiolate)

These species bloom on last year's shoots and need sanitary and cosmetic pruning. The optimal pruning time is as soon as the buds are a little swollen, there is no active movement of juices, plus such trimmed shoots can be rooted. Let's talk about the example of a garden hydrangea.

Large-leaved hydrangea (macrophile) cannot be cut off, but can only be rejuvenated. Every spring, prune every fourth branch over 3 years old, especially the one growing inward, so that the bush does not thicken, as well as dead, weak (thin) or broken stems at the root. Such pruning, in addition to giving a more decorative shape, improves flowering.

Spring pruning of garden hydrangea (large-leaved)

An exception: modern varieties from the series "Forever and ever", "You & Me", as well as varieties "MiniPenny", which bloom on the shoot of the first and previous years. They are pruned depending on the condition of the plant and the past winter.

• Petiolate hydrangea is poorly pruned: long stems are shortened for better branching.

Group No. 2 (tree and paniculate)

These species blooming on young shoots (current season) are pruned every year before bud break. Best moment: mid to late March (as soon as the snow melts). An annual formative pruning is required, as if the flower thickens, the inflorescences will become smaller.

1. Hydrangea treelike wakes up first. Shoots are cut to 2-3 buds from the ground. On a powerful and mature bush, sometimes only one pair of buds is left. To form a decorative form of the bush, cut off the weak and growing inward shoots.
2. Panicle hydrangea needs more gentle pruning. Last year's shoots are shortened by a third.

Tips

• To thin out the bush, remove the old, weak and growing inward shoots completely annually.
• Cut off the frozen stems to the first living bud.

Bush rejuvenation

It is easy to rejuvenate an old bush with the help of special pruning: cut off all shoots at a height of 5-7 cm from ground level ("under the stump") or to the level of perennial wood. Next spring, young shoots will begin to grow, and the decorative effect of the bush will be restored.

Should I prune my hydrangea for the winter?

In the fall, the faded inflorescences are cut off at the hydrangea without fail, so that the branches do not break under the weight of the snow.

Stamp form

Paniculata hydrangea can be grown in the form of a tree - a low bole. Choose one of the most developed shoot on a two-year-old plant grown from an apical cut, and cut off the rest. Then cut this shoot to the strongest bud every year in the spring, until it reaches 100 cm in height.

To form the crown in the following years, pinch the top of the shoot, and remove the new shoots completely. In the future, weak shoots are cut off annually and only 4-5 strongest branches are left for bushiness.

An example of a standard form of hydrangea paniculata

Hydrangea care in the fall and preparation for winter

After flowering, care for hydrangea in the fall consists in removing faded inflorescences and preparing for winter.

• Treelike hydrangea for the winter can not be covered, mulching is enough - it has high winter hardiness.
• In the conditions of the Middle Belt, Moscow Region, North-West, the Urals and Siberia, be sure to cover the hydrangea for the winter, and it is better to dig up the large-leaved hydrangea, transplant it into pots and bring it into the house.
  Since this species can be grown in areas where the temperature in winter is not lower than -23.5 ° C. The exception is some modern winter-hardy varieties mentioned in the "pruning" section.
• In more southern and warmer areas, hilling and mulching can be dispensed with.

Preparing for winter and sheltering hydrangeas

Inflorescences appear on last year's shoots (large-leaved hydrangea), and the goal is to completely preserve them from frost and damping off.

Since the leaves and flowers of large-leaved hydrangea die from small frosts at night, preparations for winter begin in mid - late October (after the first frost).

• Hydrangea garden paniculate and large-leaved must be covered for the winter.

1. To do this, they spud a bush with earth, and the trunk circle is mulched with rotted manure, needles or peat.
2. Then the stems are bent to the soil and covered with sawdust, spruce branches or dry leaves. And on top of the bush they put a box (box).
3. After the end of the spring frost (April), the winter shelter is dismantled and pruned.
4. It is better to carefully tie a large bush and make a frame shelter ("hut") above it by 8-12 cm and pour dry foliage inside it.

Preparing hydrangeas for winterShelter hydrangea for the winterTop layer of winter shelter for hydrangea

In case of short-term frosts, it is convenient to cover with lutrasil, white burlap or a double layer of film.

Shelter of a large-leaved hydrangea for the winter from a gardener from the Moscow region

1. In the fall, before the arrival of night frosts, cut off all the leaves from the bush. If you leave them, the flower will start to rot. Leave only flower buds at the tips of the branches, with a maximum of two leaves protecting them.
2. Tie all branches on the bush, 3-4 pieces of approximately the same size, into separate bundles with elastic material (elastic, tights, strips of fabric).
3. Bend the bundles as low as possible to the soil and secure with metal staples (electrodes, thick wire). It is necessary to bend the hydrangea to the ground carefully so as not to damage the shoots. In some varieties, they are very lignified and it is better to bend them down gradually, starting with a slight slope.
4. Before the cold weather begins (mid-November), cover the hydrangea with any non-woven material (burlap, agrofibre).
5. Before the onset of severe frosts, remove the cover and cover the flower with dry peat, compost or leafy soil. The base of the bush is less afraid of frost than the fragile tips of the shoots, so it is sprinkled quite a bit.
6. Place arcs over the plant and stretch the covering material again, and put a piece of film on top so that the ends remain open and there is no high humidity inside the winter shelter.

Shelter for the winter of a young hydrangea

Young seedlings are not cut off, but simply brought into the house in pots for the winter or covered with earth and additionally covered with a layer of peat, dry foliage, needles or sawdust for the winter.

When can you open a hydrangea after winter?

In the spring, you need to remove the winter shelter from the hydrangea at the right time to prevent the shoots from drying out.

1. In mid-March, remove the foil and covering material, scoop up the peat or soil and cover again with burlap.
2. In early April, when the night frosts end and a stable heat comes, remove the cover from the large-leaved hydrangea completely.

The approximate dates for the Moscow region are indicated.

Hydrangea winter hardiness

Now the large-leaved hydrangea is increasingly grown in the conditions of central Russia and in the Moscow region, in the Urals and Siberia. However, not all winter-hardy varieties are able to bloom in any area due to the different microclimate.

The plant can withstand up to -23 ° C, and the most winter-hardy are treelike, paniculate and ground cover hydrangeas.

The winter hardiness of a plant increases if it received a sufficient amount of water in the fall, as well as potassium-phosphorus fertilization.

Diseases and pests

Hydrangea is very resistant to diseases and pests, but sometimes it is still affected by powdery mildew, spider mites and aphids (more often in greenhouses).

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Why doesn't hydrangea bloom in the garden? What to do?

We will list the most common reasons for not blooming.

1. Deficiency or excess of nutrients, especially nitrogen. With excessive feeding, especially with organic fertilizers, flowering is very difficult to achieve. Apply nitrogen only during active vegetation (April - May).
2. Improper pruning or winterization. The plant blooms on last year's shoots (upper buds). They often suffer from winter chills and are sometimes removed if over-pruned. If you have a large-leaved hydrangea, then read how to properly prune it - the "Pruning" section.
3. Excess direct sunlight. Diffused light is ideal for hydrangea, but if it grows in a sunny place without shading in the midday heat, then flowering worsens and shortens.

How to speed up hydrangea flowering?

To make the bush bloom faster, sprinkle it as soon as the inflorescences become 2-4 cm in diameter twice with an interval of 5-7 days with gibberellins - 50 mg / liter of water. This treatment allows you to bloom 2-4 weeks earlier and get more massive and decorative flowering.

How to change the color of hydrangea flowers?

The flowers of the plant can change their color depending on the acidity of the soil and the ability to accumulate aluminum.

Water the bush with a solution of potassium alum (100 g / 10 liters of water). To change the color, you need to spend 3-4 waterings every 12-15 days. Therefore, watering begins 50-70 days before flowering.

After that, the white or pink flowers (slightly alkaline soil) will turn blue or blue, depending on the concentration. At the same time, alum reduces acidity, so you need to use them carefully. The price of 100 g of alum is about 30-50 rubles.

Helpful Tips for Hydrangea Care

• If you want to dry hydrangea inflorescences for the winter, then cut them off immediately after all the flowers bloom. Tie in small bunches and hang flowers down in a dark place to dry.
• Hydrangea can be grown at home as a pot culture. In the fall, it sheds its leaves, for the winter it is cut off and transferred to a cool place (+ 4-6), and in late February - early March, it is placed in a bright and warm place without direct sunlight. In summer, the flower can be taken out into the open air and left until September.
• Experts advise planting ground cover species in the near-trunk circle: stonecrops, bryophyte saxifrage and others.

ADDITIONS TO THE ARTICLE:

1. REPRODUCTION OF GARDEN HORTENSIA: ALL WAYS!

2. TYPES AND BEST VARIETIES OF HYDRENZIUM WITH PHOTOS AND TITLES!

We wish flowers to cheer you up and make you a little happier!