Planting onions on greens before winter in open ground

Green onions are a real storehouse of vitamins. And best of all, the door is never locked. Onions are one of the few cultivated plants that can grow and turn green without bright sunlight. Therefore, planting onions on greens can be practiced year-round: from spring to autumn - in the open field or in a greenhouse, and in the cold season - in heated greenhouses or at home on a windowsill.

Variety selection

For some reason, it so happened in our area that the same varieties of onions are planted on greens, from which the bulbs are grown. As a result, the harvest of green vitamins is much lower than it would be possible to get if you get creative with this matter.

All that needs to be done beforehand when choosing a variety is to cut one onion. You need to cut off the top of the onion, about 1/3, and look at the rings inside. If all rings have a common center, then such a bow has only one rudiment. A lot of greenery from such a head will not grow.

For greens (feathers), those varieties of onions are better suited, in the bulbs of which not one, but several rudiments are formed. The more such primordia are inside the heads, the richer the harvest of green onions will be.

Breeders have bred many of these multi-primordial onion varieties.

For forcing on greens, you can use:

• Rostov;
• Arzamassky;
• Amber;
• Bessonovsky;
• Black Prince.

Also, shallots are often used for feathering, although most housewives are not even aware of this. Shallot looks very much like an ordinary onion, and this similarity played a cruel joke with it. It can also be found in vegetable gardens in the plantings of ordinary onions. Shallots differ from onions by almost complete absence of bitterness, so they are often used in salads as an onion “delicacy”.

Alternative types of onions

Leek

For forcing on greens, you can use not only onions, but also other varieties of onions.

They are not yet widely cultivated in our gardens, but this is not because they are bad, but rather because of some conservatism of the villagers, who are always inclined to be careful when it comes to replacing traditional plant species with new ones.

These types of onions, so far underestimated by our hostesses, include:

• leek (pearl);
• onion-batun (Tatar, sandy, winter);
• slime onion;
• chives (chives);
• shallot;
• Egyptian bow (Canadian, multi-tiered).

Leek leaves look more like garlic leaves than onions. It does not have such a pronounced onion smell and taste as onion. For cooking, a thickened white lower part of the stem is used, but young leaves are also quite edible and have a delicate, delicate sweetish taste.

Batun

Another type of onion that can be grown for greens. In appearance, its leaves resemble onion leaves - the same fisty and long, growing up to 35-40 cm.A trampoline in one place can be grown up to 10 years, but it is most productive in the first 3-4 years after sowing.

It grows from early spring to late autumn. Left for the winter in the soil, it calmly tolerates even the most severe frosts and begins the growing season as soon as the snow melts from the garden. Short-term frosts of 5-7 degrees are not terrible for its leaves. Green Leaves can be harvested 3 times per season.

Slime

A unique type of lettuce, rich not only in vitamin C, but also in trace elements necessary for the human body, primarily iron. Its young leaves taste more like garlic than onion, but it is a pleasure to eat them in salads. You can grow greens all year round.

Schnitt

Better known in our area as chives. It can be found more often in flower beds than in the garden. It looks very beautiful when it blooms, but few people know that its long (up to 0.5 m) leaves can also be used for greenery.

They will give salads and other dishes a subtle onion flavor, one of the most delicate of all onions. It can be grown for greens all year round, since chives are very unpretentious and can grow even in the Far North.

Egyptian bow

An amazing plant that almost never occurs on the territory of the European part of the former Soviet Union. It looks more like garlic in appearance, but tastes like onion and garlic at the same time. For this peculiarity of his, he was popularly nicknamed the onion. Egyptian onions practically do not fall into a dormant period, so they can be used for forcing on a feather all year round.

Landing dates

For growing on a feather in the open field, onions are planted either in early spring or late autumn. In the spring, planting is performed 2-3 weeks after the soil thaws. In the fall, the planting time is adjusted so that frost occurs 2-3 weeks after disembarkation. Even in one region, depending on the weather, the exact dates of planting in different years can vary greatly.

Growing onions on a feather in greenhouses, greenhouses and indoors is not tied to any specific line in any of the regions.

Preparing the bulbs

Onion picks

For forcing green onions on a feather, pick onions are most often used. Bulbs with a diameter of 2.5-4 cm are considered optimal for forcing. Smaller bulbs will give 1-2 feathers, and planting large bulbs is uneconomical: the number of feathers does not depend on the size of the bulb, but on the number of primordia formed in it.

For the fastest germination, the bulbs are soaked in warm water for a day before planting. The water temperature is kept at 30-35 degrees. Immediately before planting, the tops of the bulbs are cut off. You need to cut it very carefully so as not to damage the rudiment.

Trimming the tops will speed up the onion germination by 3-4 days. When it comes to planting 30-50 bulbs, then it is justified, but when you plant half a hundred-weave of onions (50-100 square meters), it takes a lot of time and really annoys. Therefore, I prefer to wait these extra 3-4 days, but not bother with pruning.

Planting methods

Onions on greens are planted in the soil in two ways:

• tape;
• pavement.

When growing green onions using a tape method, the bed is pre-leveled. For planting, grooves are cut with a depth of 2-3 cm, and the bulbs are placed in these grooves, and then covered with earth. The grooves are cut with row spacing of 15-20 cm, the distance between the bulbs laid in them is maintained from 2 to 4 cm.

The bridge method, in comparison with the tape method, is considered more progressive. It is often used in greenhouses and greenhouses where every inch of soil counts. The soil is also leveled before planting, in addition, the upper 7-8 cm is loosened, but the grooves are not cut. The bulbs are laid close to each other, slightly deepening the base into the soil. For 1 sq. meter of planting area will need 12-15 kg of onions.

When grown in a bridge way, it is more practical to plant onions in narrow - up to 1 m - ridges, leaving a passage of 50-60 cm between them.It is better to make the ridges high - the time spent on their arrangement is more than pays off by the convenience in caring for plantings and harvesting.

The bridge method is often used in greenhouses and greenhouses, where every centimeter of soil counts. It is often used in a greenhouse or basement when growing green onions on shelves. This method allows you to harvest 3 times more crops from a unit of area than if you simply plant onions in the soil.

The design of the racks is simple: several pairs of vertical racks are installed, strong transverse racks are fixed on them. The lower rack is installed at a height of 10-15 cm above the ground, the middle rack at a height of 60-70 cm above the lower one, and the upper rack at the same distance above the middle one.

Wooden or iron boxes with a height of 10-12 cm are installed on the racks. Soil is poured into the boxes, and onions are planted in it. Caring for such plantings is no different from usual, except that it is not very convenient to water and feed growing onions on the upper rack.

There is another interesting way to grow onions for greens - using hydroponics. But this is not the kind of hydroponics in which you need to invest thousands, if not tens of thousands of dollars. This hydroponics is in every home, and our great-grandmothers used it, not even suspecting that their descendants would call this method of growing green onions with such an abstruse word.

In fact, the method is very simple. Water is poured into a small mug or glass, and a large head of onion is "planted" on top so that its root cup is in water. It is better to plant an already sprouted bulb: firstly, you will get a harvest faster, and secondly, with such a bulb it is already possible to determine how many sprouts it will give out.

Then everything is simple: periodically you need to change the water in the glass, and as the distillation progresses, cut out the longest shoots. You won't make money for black caviar with such "hydroponics", but you can easily prepare a delicious vitamin salad from fresh green onions for your New Year's or Christmas table.

Growing secrets

The best precursors for onions are potatoes, tomatoes, courgettes, cabbage, and cucumbers.

All types of onions love nutritious soil. In order to do less fertilizing, it is better to cook everything to the maximum before planting. For growing onions, a soil mixture of peat, humus and soil in a 1: 1: 1 ratio is perfect. When grown on heavy clay soils, it is advisable to add half a portion of coarse sand to this mixture.

For the intensive development of onion feathers, it is important that there are enough nitrogen compounds in the soil. Therefore, you should not add fresh manure for planting onions on greens - it will decompose for a long time in the soil, and the fast-growing onion stalks simply will not have time to use it.

If the soil mixture is prepared correctly, then feeding is practically unnecessary when growing onions for greens. But if, nevertheless, there is a need for feeding, then you can feed the shoots with a mullein solution in a ratio of 1 part of manure tincture to 5 parts of water, or tincture of chicken manure in a ratio of 1:15.

Preparing the tincture is simple. 2 liters of manure is poured with a bucket of water, stirred well and left to infuse for 2 weeks, periodically shaking the manure that has settled to the bottom. After 2 weeks, 1 liter of this manure tincture is diluted with 5 liters of clean water and the plants are fed.

If it is not possible to get the required amount of manure or chicken droppings, you can use mineral fertilizers, preparing a "cocktail" for feeding from 1 tbsp. tablespoons of ammonium nitrate, 1 tbsp. tablespoons of potassium salt and 2 tbsp. tablespoons of superphosphate per 10 liters of water. But still, given the rapidity of onion growth, it would be better to refrain from using mineral fertilizers.

The first feeding is carried out immediately after thinning the seedlings, the second, if necessary, 2-3 weeks after the first.

But more than a lack of fertilizer, a lack of moisture is destructive for onion growth. In the first two weeks after planting, the plants need to be watered generously as soon as they begin to dry out. To reduce the amount of watering, after each of them, when growing in a tape manner, you need to loosen the top ball of soil. In the future, the earth also needs to be kept moist. Usually, depending on the temperature, watering has to be done every 8-12 days.

In the case of a bridge cultivation in open ground, the bulbs stuck into the ground should be sprinkled on top with a 2-3 cm layer of earth. If a podzimnyaya planting is performed, then on top of the ground for the winter, the beds are additionally insulated with a 5-6 cm layer of humus. In the spring, after the snow melts, this layer is carefully removed, and the plantings are covered with a film to protect them from the cold.

Despite the fact that the onion is considered a frost-resistant crop, its ground mass grows and develops intensively at a temperature of 20-25 degrees. But at temperatures up to 15 degrees, there is an active rooting and development of the root system. Therefore, onions are planted on a feather in the open field in early spring or late autumn: first, it will take root well, and then, with the onset of heat, it will actively begin to gain green mass.

When growing onions on a feather in greenhouses or basements, this feature must also be taken into account. First, for 2 weeks, the temperature regime must be maintained within 15 degrees maximum, and when the onion sprouts, in 4-5 days, raise it to the optimum temperature for feather growth.

The second thing to consider, especially in greenhouses, is that the onion is a long day plant. Simply put, the longer the daylight hours, the better it will grow. Experienced growers, growing onions in a greenhouse, often keep the lights on around the clock during periods of intense growth to speed up the process as much as possible.

Forcing onions for greens is one of the easiest to perform and at the same time one of the most successful in terms of productivity in any garden. It is only important to try a little and follow the simple rules of this work, and vitamin deficiency will never dare to approach you and your loved ones.

More than five thousand years ago, the golden bulb was already known to our ancestors. As a cultivated vegetable plant, onions began to be actively cultivated on mountain slopes about a thousand years ago in Iran, Afghanistan and Turkmenistan.

Today, there are over 900 varieties of this culture. The most popular among gardeners are shallots, batun, leek, branched, Chinese, wild garlic and others.

How to plant onions before winter

Spicy and sweet, leafy and bulbous varieties are actively used in food by peoples all over the world. Every Russian consumes from 8 to 10 kg of onions per year. Onions - culture capricious... In case of insufficient humidity, it throws out arrows, and in damp weather it rots.

During winter storage, certain conditions must also be observed, since at high temperatures the bulbs dry out, and after a low temperature during planting, the bulb goes into peduncle.

Despite the capriciousness, onion beds are present in every personal and summer cottage. To get abundant harvest strong golden bulbs, when planting, it is necessary to take into account some of the features of this plant:

Same

• onion is a biennial plant;
• short fibrous root system has low absorption;
• insufficient illumination is poorly tolerated;
• being a frost-resistant crop, onions tolerate spring frosts on soil down to minus 3 ° C;
• high temperatures, above + 25 ° C, stop the growth of onion leaves.

The effectiveness of planting onions in the fall before winter has been known for a long time.

In 1993, LS Borisenkova in her brochure "Onions and Garlic" described in detail the method of winter cultivation and the varieties of suitable onion varieties.

However, some vegetable growers today do not know and do not use this technique.

Choosing a site for planting onion sets in autumn

In order for winter onions to overwinter and give a good harvest, a site for winter planting must meet certain requirements:

• the garden bed for growing winter onions must certainly be well lit. The landing site should be completely exposed to sunlight, but not in a windy place;
• the onion bed must be cleared of weeds, since pests will remain in them in winter, and in the spring these plants will take away moisture and nutrients from winter bulbs for active growth;
• onion varieties do not like soil in lowlands with high humidity. It is recommended to raise the bed for planting onions before winter in the Moscow region by 20-25 cm;
• winter onions are recommended to be planted after cabbage, potatoes, tomatoes, peas, zucchini. In the same place, this culture is planted after 4–5 seasons.

Before planting in autumn, the soil is recommended disinfect solution of copper sulfate (1 tbsp. l. per 10 liters of water), and also fertilize.

Strong large bulbs grow when a mixture of peat, wood ash, humus, potassium salt and superphosphate is added to the loose soil.

Selection of onion varieties and preparation of sets

For planting onion sets in the fall, sharp early varieties are recommended.

Early ripening variety Stuttgarten Riesen popular for the pungent taste of its dense, large, flat-rounded bulbs and early ripening. Centurion is distinguished by high yield and low morbidity.

Its identical bulbs - turnips with dense scales are well preserved. Shakespeare hardly shoots, has a soft and very juicy fragrant pulp. Varieties Baron and Radar are good fresh. Spicy and rich, large bulbs ripen quickly, but do not last long.

Varieties Shallot and Batun planted before winter for the sake of early greenery. Their green, succulent leaves grow 2-3 weeks earlier than all other varieties. The varieties Strigunovsky, Myachkovsky, Silver Prince, Carmen, Malognezdny and others are suitable for winter cultivation.

The size of the onions for winter planting is divided into four groups:

​​

• ostyuzhok - the smallest heads, less than 1 cm, are best suited for winter planting, as they dry out until spring. With winter cultivation, they give a good yield;
• the highest yield is given by heads of category 1 in size from 1 to 1.5 cm;
• Category 2 bulbs with sizes from 1.5 to 3 cm and samples larger than 3 cm are planted to obtain early greenery.

How to plant onions before winter

Onion seeds, nigella, grow in the first year from the flowers of the onion turnip. Before winter, vegetable growers sometimes sow nigella under a film or non-woven agrofibre.

Sevok for planting onions for the winter is selected using a peculiar sieves... Round holes with a diameter of 1 cm are cut into the cardboard sheet and the bulbs are sieved. The onions that have passed into the hole can be planted. To prevent the onion from going into the arrows, it is recommended to immerse the selected heads for 2 minutes in water at a temperature of 60 ° C before planting.

The recommendations of experienced gardeners when and how to plant onion sets before winter will help to correctly plant onion sets before winter.

Each gardener decides for himself when to plant onions before winter. Autumn planting time is from 5 to 20 October at an air temperature of + 2- + 3 ° C. The second week of October is a good time when the onions have time to take root, but the leaves do not have time to germinate. In early spring, winter bulbs grow quickly due to the moisture accumulated in the ground.

The bed dug up with the applied fertilizers is leveled. When the soil subsides in a few days, the sorted seed is planted in grooves to a depth of 3-5 cm. At a deeper planting, the onions rot. Between the beds it is recommended 15–20 cm, between the heads 6–8 cm. To obtain early greenery, the seedlings are planted in nests of 4–6 onions. The soil layer above the onions should not exceed 1.5–2 cm. To prevent the seedlings from jumping out during rooting, the soil in the garden bed after planting is lightly pressed with palms or a wide board.

Into the soil nitrogen fertilizers - urea or saltpeter - stimulate the growth of leaf mass.Therefore, when growing onions on heads, they are not recommended.

In order for the winter onions to winter well, actively sprout in the spring and give a bountiful harvest, it is recommended to cover the garden bed with peat, dry leaves or humus (with a layer of 2-3 cm) after planting, and cover it with straw in case of severe frosts. The cover layer also helps to trap the thawed spring water. In winters with little snow, it is recommended to shovel snow onto the garden bed or cover it with a film.

Spring care of the onion bed

Mulching in spring after snow melting layer and film are removed. Carefully, without damaging the sprouts, shallow grooves are made above the rows. This allows the soil to warm up faster and dry out excess moisture. If frosts below -3 ° C are expected, it is better to cover the garden with foil or agrofibre.

The first feeding is recommended with a liquid solution of 1:10 mullein or bird droppings. In mid-May, a second feeding with nitrophos or mullein is carried out. It is recommended to feed the soil with potassium sulfate, superphosphate or wood ash before the bulbous heads are formed.

If there is insufficient rainfall in May and June, the beds must be watered. In a rainy summer, fertilizers are applied dry between rows to a depth of 5–6 cm.

Onion pest and disease control

A pest that can destroy the harvest of juicy onions - onion fly... Appearing in mid-May, this insect is capable of giving offspring three times before frost in the form of white larvae. It reproduces poorly in dry weather. The smell of calendula repels the onion fly. Spraying diseased plants with tincture of wormwood or tansy helps.

Some onion diseases require extra care to preserve the crop. In humid warm weather, small yellow specks appear on onion feathers - rust. When harvesting, you can find gray rot on turnips. Before storing the crop, the onions must be well dried in the sun. Seeds and bulbs can be infected with powdery mildew. These seeds planted in the spring will lead to infection and death of the entire crop.

The alternation of planting different vegetable crops in the beds, disinfection of the soil and airing the room in which the root crops are stored helps to avoid contamination of the bulbs with various harmful fungi.

Planting onions before winter has a number advantages:

• small seeding does not disappear, but grows into large bulbs;
• no need to save seeds;
• winter onions ripen faster, give less arrows, keep longer;
• winter bulbs grow larger and healthier;
• in spring, time is freed up for planting other plants;
• in the fall, sets are cheaper.

Correct planting of seedlings before winter gives a bountiful harvest of large and juicy bulbs.

Attention, only TODAY!

Shallots or Ascalonian onions are a type of onion. Originally from the Middle East. Introduced to European countries in the 13th century. In those days it was called Eshkalot (after the biblical name of the city where it was grown), then the name passed into shallot. It is also called kvochka, kushchevka, since one plant forms a nest of bulbs (5-30 bulbs each). It reproduces successfully in a vegetative way: one planted onion produces about 40 new ones. Seed propagation is rarely used.

Shallots: the difference from onions

Shallots are grown for green feathers, although the bulbs are also edible. Early maturity is a distinctive feature of this type of onion. You can get a crop in greenhouses as early as February, and when grown outdoors, green feathers are ready for cutting a month after planting. Bulbs are well stored in winter - they do not dry out, do not germinate.

Shallots can be called gourmet onions: the leaves do not coarsen for a long time, the bulbs have a delicate semi-sweet taste, the culture does not cause tearing during processing, and there is no unpleasant aroma from the mouth after being eaten fresh.

It is shallots that are the main ingredient of the famous onion soup - after cooking, a unique taste remains, it does not drown out other products. Shallots are eaten fresh (appetizer, side dish, in salads), pickled, fried.

The plant is rich in minerals, sugars, ascorbic acid, and has medicinal properties.

How to grow shallots with seeds

How to grow shallots from seeds photo set

Shallots, like onions, are a biennial culture. Initially, it is necessary to sow the culture with nigella seeds in order to get small bulbs - onion sets.

Chernushka onions are sown in moist, ripe soil in early spring (March-April) or late autumn before winter, at the end of October (so that Chernushka does not rise until spring).

And to make the onion set large, you need to sow it less often and water it well.

Prepare the bed in advance, carefully digging up and loosening the ground. Let the earth settle and start sowing:

• The furrows are made shallow so that the sowing is no deeper than 1-2 cm.
• The distance between the rows is 15-20 cm.
• The distance between the seeds is as small as possible, so that later it is easier to break through.
• After sowing, the furrows are carefully closed with the back of the rake, or better, they are manually covered with light loose soil in half with humus.

After sowing, the garden bed must be watered so that there is no stagnation of water, otherwise an earthen crust will form, which is detrimental to tender seedlings. It is advisable to water every day, only slightly moistening the garden. With this care, the black onion will quickly "pop out" out.

For sevka

When shoots appear, they are thinned 2-3 times, leaving 4-5 cm between the plants. This distance is enough to grow a full-fledged onion set.

To get greenery on a feather

Break through seedlings only at a distance of 3-4 cm, this is enough to obtain beautiful juicy greenery. Water it abundantly at least once every 5 days.

Shallot Seeding Care

Further care consists in regular watering and loosening of the soil. Twice a season, you can feed with fermented grass or any other nitrogen fertilizing.

When the feather of the onion begins to turn yellow, watering is stopped, allowing the bulbs to ripen. After the tops have lodged, the onion sets are picked out of the ground, dried in a shady place, put in boxes and stored in a cool, dry room.

When and how to plant shallots in the ground

How to plant shallots photo

You can plant shallots in the spring (in April) or before winter (mid-October)... In the middle lane, it is better to plant in spring. When planting in autumn, it is important that the plant takes root, but does not begin to actively grow.

• The depth of planting the bulbs in the spring is about 6 cm, in the fall - 10 cm.
• The root collar should be covered with a 2-3 cm layer of soil.
• Maintain a distance of about 10 cm between individual bulbs and 20 cm between rows.
• When planting before winter, be sure to mulch with humus.
• Large bulbs give a large number of babies, but to get the green part, it is better to plant small and medium bulbs.

The soil is needed loose, fertile. For digging for each m², add 4-6 kg of humus.

Photophilous culture: Plant in open areas with bright sunlight.

How to care for shallots

Watering

Keep the soil slightly moist at all times, but avoid stagnant water. Water 3-4 times a week between May and mid-July. Reduce watering from the second half of summer, and stop altogether 2-3 weeks before harvesting.

Loosen the soil regularly, deepening 5-6 cm between rows, being careful not to touch the plant roots.

To make the bulbs large

You can thin out the nests to get larger bulbs. Gently rake off the ground, pull out small bulbs together with feathers, leaving large specimens.

Top dressing

Feed twice during the growing season. Apply the first top dressing 2 weeks after the feathers grow on the bulbs, the second at the beginning of the formation of the bulbs.As a top dressing, you can use organic matter (a solution of chicken manure or mullein) or mineral fertilizers (the first top dressing is 10 g of ammonium nitrate, 10-15 g of superphosphate, the second top dressing is 10-15 g of superphosphate and potassium chloride per 1 m²).

Growing and caring for shallots on video:

Harvesting and storage

• Start harvesting the bulbs when about 50-70% of the feathers wilted.
• Dig up the bulbs along with the feathers; they must absolutely not be left in direct sunlight.
• In this form, dry for 10-12 days under a canopy, ensuring dryness and ventilation.
• Then cut off all the feathers, leaving only the thin, dried neck of the plant.
• It is better not to divide the nests into separate bulbs.
• Place the dried shallots in crates or boxes and store between 0 ° C and +3 ° C.

1 Popular varieties

To choose an onion for planting on greens, they look at the cross section, how many buds have formed inside it. If there is only one rudiment, there will be little greenery. Onion varieties should be chosen multi-primordial, such as Rostovsky, Arzamassky, Black Prince, Yantarny, Bessonovsky.

The following varieties of green onions have gained particular popularity:

1. Schnitt. Its second name is chisel. It is prized for its leaves. They are fragrant, 50 cm long and narrow, do not stale for a long time, remaining tender. This bow is unpretentious to care for. Its yield is 30 kg per 9 m2.
2. Leek, another name is pearl. The feathers of such onions resemble garlic ones. It has wide leaves and a delicate taste. The leek yield per 9 m2 is 20 kg. The variety is known as fisty, sandy, Tatar, or winter.
3. Batunniy. His greens are even. The cost for planting is quite low. The feathers of this perennial onion are cut 2-3 times per season, in an annual only 1 time. Harvest from 9 m2 from 20 to 35 kg.
4. Slime. This onion has wide and flat leaves, a delicate texture and a light garlic aroma. The variety ripens quickly, is frost-resistant, fruitful. Indoors it grows all year round, outdoors it stops growing with the onset of cold weather.
5. Shallot. Surpasses onions in quality and quantity of their feathers. Unpretentious to care for and very productive: 25-45 kg per 9 m2.
6. Multi-tiered. Another name is Egyptian, Canadian. Of all the varieties, the multi-tiered one is more unpretentious and frost-resistant. The quality of the greens is much higher than that of the batun.

Onion variety for greens Slime

Green onion varieties have many beneficial properties.

2 Growing onions for greens in the open field

The different varieties are grown in almost the same pattern.

The planting material is a multi-pronged onion with a diameter of 2.5-4 cm. It is planted in the fall in open ground a few weeks before the onset of cold weather or in early spring immediately after the snow melts. The bulbs are soaked in warm water before planting. Then the top of the head is cut off. These measures will speed up the forcing of green onions and increase yields by an average of 65%.

There are two methods for growing green onions:

• Mostovoy

Onions are laid tightly to each other with roots down and covered with 2-3 cm of earth.

Bridge method of bow disembarkation

• Tape

The bulbs are planted 1-4 cm apart, the distance between the grooves is 10-20 cm. Then the bed is leveled.

If you land before winter, manure or humus is laid out on top. In the spring, the fertilizer should be removed and a frame covered with a film should be placed over the beds.

When planting, you can also use green onion seeds, planting them takes a little longer, but costs less.

In order to have fresh, fragrant greens on your table in the spring, sow onions in open ground in mid-July. First you need to loosen the soil and fertilize it. Before placing seeds in the ground, the bed is leveled and compacted. Sowing onions should be continuous, while maintaining a distance between the beds of 30-40 cm. After the appearance of the first leaf, the crops must be thinned so that the distance between the shoots is at least 3.5 cm.For the winter, when the feathers grow up to 20-30cm, the soil will need to be covered with straw or peat. After the snow melts, you will have a wonderful harvest of greenery.

3 Growing in greenhouses and greenhouses

In greenhouse conditions, green onions are grown in October-April, and from February to May - in a greenhouse. They sit down only by the bridge method. The bulbs soaked in warm water are placed tightly in the grooves. Can be covered with peat or humus. In the greenhouse, do not sprinkle the onions with cut-off tops.

Growing onions in a greenhouse

You can plant onions in boxes filled with compost or humus. This will increase the yield. Asthenia planted in boxes is sprinkled with earth, and the boxes themselves are placed on top of each other and left in this position for 15-20 days. After that, the boxes are placed in the greenhouse and the temperature is monitored. It should be kept at a mark no higher than 19o. For the entire ripening season, onions must be watered at least 4 times, fed with fertilizers between waterings. Chemical fertilizers cannot be used for green onions. Feathers are harvested at a length of 20-25 cm.