Clematis white cloud outdoor planting and care

Clematis burning is an original landscape variety, suitable for decorating plots in a classic style. It gives an ordinary garden the charm of a magical forest, requires minimal care and is very responsive to care. This variety will be a worthy alternative to large-flowered variations and will appeal to people who prefer the beauty of the wild southern nature.

Clematis burning is an original landscape variety, suitable for decorating plots in a classic style. It gives an ordinary garden the charm of a magical forest, requires minimal care and is very responsive to care. This variety will be a worthy alternative to large-flowered variations and will appeal to people who prefer the beauty of the wild southern nature.

Description of the plant

Clematis pungent is a strong and powerful vine with a branched root system. In natural conditions, it grows up to 3-5 m, in gardens and parks, the plant has more compact dimensions, not exceeding 1.5 m in height. A heat-loving plant, originally from the Mediterranean, feels great in the climate of the middle zone, but requires reliable shelter for the winter and protection from sudden gusts of wind.

Burning clematis got its name because of its powerful cord-like roots that emit a special caustic substance. If it gets on the mucous membranes of the nose and mouth, it can cause irritation, accompanied by redness and swelling of the tissues. However, the caustic sap is non-toxic, with proper care and compliance with safety rules, the plant can well be grown in ordinary gardens.

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Outwardly, the plant resembles other wild varieties (for example, yellow grape-leaved clematis or mountain clematis with pale pink, blue buds) growing in the Caucasus. Vines quickly build up a lush green mass. The leaves are often located, they are medium-sized, lanceolate, dark green in color with a barely noticeable waxy bloom. The flowers are small, their diameter does not exceed 3 cm. The buds are white, with a slight greenish undertone, the smell is very pleasant, with notes of almonds that attract pollinating insects. The flowering process begins in July and continues until the end of August. The exact timing depends on the climatic conditions of a particular region.

The plant is loved by gardeners for its lush and abundant flowering. On one shoot, from 200 to 400 fragrant buds can form, collected in elegant volumetric panicles. At the height of the season, the vine resembles a luxurious greenish-white cloud.No less decorative are the seeds of a reddish-brown hue with a pinnately pubescent nose, adorning the branches until the end of September.

Choosing a landing site

Like other varieties of clematis, Clematis pungent prefers light, nutritious soils. Good drainage from broken bricks, pebbles, expanded clay or river sand is required. The plant does not tolerate stagnation of moisture in the soil - with an excess of water, the roots and bases of the stems begin to rot, and the entire vine may die. Do not place clematis in low-lying areas or on swampy soils. Better to plant them on a small, well-lit hill. Small drainage ditches can be dug to drain the groundwater.

Ideal soil should be neutral or slightly alkaline. It is recommended to process acidified soil with lime, and then mix it with sand, peat and old humus. For the prevention of diseases, the soil before planting the plant must be watered with an aqueous solution of potassium permanganate. This simple procedure will protect delicate shoots from pests and various diseases.

It is best to plant the vine in front of the wall of the house, near a strong fence with an arched support, next to a gazebo or summer kitchen. Like other varieties of clematis, white small-flowered does not tolerate sudden gusts of wind, which can break fragile young shoots and damage inflorescences. The site should be well lit, light partial shade is possible in the afternoon. Protecting the plant from the sun is necessary only in arid southern regions. You should not plant clematis under the canopy of old trees, where the sun's rays do not penetrate well. But the liana will gladly braid a dried trunk or a high stump, creating an original blooming composition.

Subtleties of care

Clematis pungent is quite easy to care for. He prefers moderate watering with settled, not too cold water. Sprinkling is not required; it is better to moisten the soil through special grooves dug around each stem. Humidification frequency depends on climatic conditions. In hot weather, it is recommended to water the vine 2 times a week, in cloudy and cool weather, the amount of water should be reduced.

The plant needs regular feeding. It is carried out once a month, alternating organic and mineral fertilizers. Monthly watering with aqueous solutions of boric acid and potassium permanganate can prevent diseases and strengthen the immunity of the vine. Mulching with humus or peat will help protect plantings from weeds and maintain a normal level of moisture in the soil. During the season, the mulch layer is renewed several times.

The fast-growing vine is fragile. Large inflorescences break off easily, branches require strong support. So that clematis does not lose its decorative effect, it is constantly tied up. It is more convenient to use strips of soft cloth or special plastic clips that do not injure delicate shoots.

Particular attention should be paid to pruning the plant. Throughout the season, damaged or dried branches are cut from vines. They are removed with a sharp garden pruner, taking care not to damage the main stem. At the end of summer, the plant will have to be more drastically pruned. Next year, inflorescences will form on new shoots, so you should not regret the old branches. They are shortened almost to the base, leaving only a few nodes for subsequent growth. After pruning, the plant is covered with dry earth or mulch, and then covered with a wooden box, a thick layer of sawdust, leaves, peat. From above, the structure is fixed with a dense plastic film with pre-made ventilation holes. In this form, a perennial vine will calmly endure even the most severe winter.

Reproduction and transplantation

Small-flowered clematis does not like transplants too much. It grows without problems in one area for up to 25 years, with the required amount of fertilizers, the growth and development of the vine does not slow down.It is not recommended to move an adult bush, and if necessary, divide it, leaving the mother plant in its old place. The plant can be propagated by seeds or layering. The unpretentious bush quickly takes root and starts growing.

It is better to plant clematis in early spring or autumn. A week before the intended planting, the selected area is cleaned of stones, plant roots and other impurities. The soil is carefully loosened, then a deep hole is dug under each plant. A mixture of peat, old humus, river sand and a small amount of complex mineral fertilizers is poured into it. The seedling is cut, leaving several large buds.

A support is installed in the pit, then the future liana is placed in it. The root collar is deepened by 10 cm, the soil around the plant is slightly compacted and watered with warm water. The soil is mulched with a thick layer of peat. In the early days, the plant needs to be shaded from bright sunlight. It is impossible to thicken the plantings, therefore, a distance of at least 1 m is left between the bushes. When the vine starts to grow, it must be tied to a support.

Use in landscape design

Small-flowered clematis are ideal for creating small garden arrangements. With their help, you can arrange a pergola, a wicker or metal arch, a lattice fence. It is not necessary to plant vines with a solid wall, because this option is more suitable for a variety with large buds.

Clematis white looks beautiful against a background of red brick, dark wood, metal. Even after flowering, lush greenery will adorn the site. With timely pruning, the plant retains its decorative effect until the very frost. A lush green and white liana can be the backdrop for more compact flowers: roses, lilies, hydrangeas. Next to the white variety, you can plant blue clematis with buds that resemble small bells. The neighborhood with shrubs also looks beautiful: jasmine, purple or white lilac, rose hips. Large white clusters contrast beautifully with yellow-golden acacia blossoms. Ornamental greenery: hops or girlish grapes will become an interesting background.

Small-flowered species of clematis deserve a place of honor in any garden. Burning clematis will decorate arches and pergolas, wrap gazebos and disguise not very attractive walls of outbuildings. With the right care, the plant will thrive for many years without the need for repotting or renovation.

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Clematis pungent is very popular among both novice gardeners and professionals in their field. Such liana has a very powerful deciduous mass, and during flowering, small, white flowers appear on it, thanks to which the plant becomes like an air cloud.

Description of the plant

Like all other plants of the species, Clematis pungent belongs to the buttercup family. In the wild, it grows on the coast of the Black and Mediterranean Seas. While choosing forest stands or thickets of shrubs.

Clematis stinging white is a small-flowered, shrub liana of wild origin. In its expanded form, its height is 5 meters, and its width is 3-4 meters..

Clematis burning

The leaves of such a climbing plant are very small.They are dark green in color and have a slightly pointed shape.

Initially, buds appear on dense green thickets, which at the beginning of summer turn into small flowers, resembling a star in shape. On average, their diameter is 2-3 centimeters.... The sepal of such a plant is rather unusual, at the very edge, there is a slight pubescence on it.

One shoot can contain from 200 to 400 flowers, which are collected in panicle-like inflorescences. Sometimes there are so many of them that they cover the entire green part of the bush.

In addition to its fabulous appearance, clematis has a very subtle honey aroma. Its smell can spread over several meters.

At the end of August - at the beginning of September, fruits appear on the culturelooking like bizarre spiders. On each pubescent or bare seed of brown color, there is a pubescent proboscis of the same shade. Many similar lonely seeds gather together and form an unusual ball around which a protective jungle is located. During the period of fruit ripening, the appearance of the plant completely changes, instead of withered leaves on the liana, seeds proudly flaunt, collected in an interesting shape.

Fruits of Clematis the Burning

Clematis can boast not only of its appearance, but also of unpretentiousness in care and durability. The average age of this shrub vine is 25-30 years..

Advantages and disadvantages

• The undoubted advantage of burning clematis will be its bright appearance, thanks to which he was so much loved by both gardeners and landscape designer;
• During flowering, the plant exudes a delicate aroma;
• Bloom last throughout the warm season;
• Such a vine unpretentious in care;
• This viewhas excellent frost resistance and can withstand the harshest winters without shelter;
• The life span of the plant exceeds 25 years.

Small-flowered clematis is a shrub liana, reaching a height of up to 5 m

• The main disadvantage of this type will be insufficient resistance to diseases and pests;
• Same, in case of violation of the irrigation regime the plant begins to wilt, and the flowering becomes shallow.

Reproduction of clematis burning

Seed use

If you propagate clematis burning with seeds, then the varietal characteristics of the parent plant will remain unchanged, because this species belongs to small-flowered ones.

1. At the end of October harvest fully ripe seeds and cleanse them of pubescence and spouts;
2. Then their stratified, that is, placed in wet sand and put in the refrigerator for 2-3 months;
3. With the onset of spring (April-May) the seeds are sown in the greenhouse... As a substrate, a mixture of sand and peat is used, prepared in a ratio of 1 to 1;
4. In the process of planting seeds are laid out on the surface of the soil, and sprinkle with sand on top;
5. Seedling care consists in timely watering;
6. With the appearance of 2-3 true sheets small bushes can be dived. They are planted in a permanent place next spring.

Dividing the bush

An adult plant is dug out of the ground (or dug in from all sides) and carefully divided into several separate parts, each of which must have a bunch of roots and shoots with vegetative buds.

Layers

Reproduction of Clematis Burning by layering

In early spring, next to the bush, they pull out trench, 6-7 centimeters deepin. In the future, a healthy, strong shoot is laid in it and fixed with metal brackets.

Immediately, you should not add a drop in the shoot, in which case you can reduce the likelihood of seedlings emerging. Such work is carried out after several small bushes appear on the layer.

Further care of the allotted shoot is carried out in conjunction with the mother plant. One year after work the shoot is carefully dug up and chopped up, after which all individual seedlings can be moved to a permanent place.

Cuttings

Reproduction of cuttings of pungent clematis is quite complex, but at the same time an interesting and effective process. For such purposes both green and lignified shoots can be used.

Reproduction of Clematis the Burning cuttings

1. Healthy shoots, 8-10 centimeters long cut in such a way that the upper, straight cut is above the knot, and the lower, oblique, under it;
2. The lower leaves are cut off, after which the cuttings are treated with growth stimulants, for example, root or heteroauxin;
3. Cuttings planted in a greenhouse or greenhouse, while the soil should be light and loose;
4. The escape planted at an angle in such a way that the upper part of the cut is deepened by 1 centimeter, and the lower one by 3 centimeters;
5. Care of cuttings will consist in regular watering.

After 1.5-2 months, the seedlings can be planted in beds for growing, and with the onset of spring (when using lignified shoots) or autumn (when using green shoots), young bushes can be planted in a permanent place.

Planting and leaving

Planting work is usually carried out in early spring or autumn., the specific choice of the term will depend on the climate in the growing region, that is, in warm areas, the plant is planted in autumn, and in cold areas in spring.

The place chosen for clematis should be sunny, but at the same time protected from sunlight. The absence of drafts and the deep location of groundwater are also encouraged.

The soil should be light, loose, slightly alkaline or acidic. Before planting for digging, they bring into it:

• 2 buckets of humus;
• 1 bucket of peat;
• 150 grams of superphosphate;
• 300 grams of ash.

Seedlings of Clematis Scorching

Before planting, the seedling must be prepared, namely, cut off the entire aerial part to 1 bud. Further work on planting the plant will look like this:

1. To start digging a hole, the depth and width of which will be 60 centimeters;
2. Immediately a support is installed on the bottom, and then a drainage layer is poured, which can be crushed stone or gravel;
3. A slide of soil is laid on the drain, and already a seedling is placed on it and the roots are gently straightened for it, after which they are buried.

An interesting feature of clematis sediment will be that the hole is not completely buried, leaving about 10 centimeters free.

Immediately after planting, the near-stem circle of the plant is abundantly watered and mulched.

Clematis care

Clematis pungent is a very moisture-loving plant, therefore it should be watered at least once a week, and on hot days, increase this amount up to 2-3 times... When watering the plant, it is imperative to ensure that moisture does not get on the green part, because in this case, the plant may wilt.

Watering is desirable at the root, affecting the aerial part of Clematis as little as possible

Several times a month, together with watering, the soil is loosened, cleaned of weeds and mulched with peat, sawdust or leaves. Regular carrying out of such work will slow down the evaporation of moisture from the soil, and the topsoil will always be in a moist state.

Also, an excess of moisture acts on the plant in a destructive way, therefore, during heavy rains, it is recommended to sprinkle the ground around clematis with wood ash.

In order for the growth of the shrub to be abundant, and the vines to look healthy and bloom well, they must be fed regularly. For this, during the active period, mineral and organic fertilizers are alternately applied every 3 weeks. Experienced gardeners recommend feeding together with watering.

During the flowering period, clematis is not fertilized., because in this case, it will begin to gain green mass to the detriment of flowering.

In the fall, after the liana has bloomed, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are applied to the root zone.

Clematis pungent is a vine that needs support. For such purposes, you can use arches, gazebos, a wall of a house, a fence, etc.

Pruning a plant consists of several steps.:

1. To extend the flowering period individual lateral shoots are cut in spring;
2. Summer, young shoots must be pinched;
3. Before winter comes the aerial part of clematis is completely cut off, because it dies off.

Caring for clematis is a simple process that every gardener can do, the main thing is to adhere to these rules.

Preparing for winter

With the onset of cold weather, the winter part of the plant dies off, and only one rhizome remains for the winter. This variety is distinguished by high frost resistance, it can easily endure severe and little snowy winters without shelter.... The only stage in preparing clematis for the cold will be the autumn pruning of all vines.

Disease and pest control

Clematis pungent has an average resistance to various diseases. Most often, the following ailments can be found on it:

• powdery mildew;
• gray rot;
• rust;
• spotting.

Clematis pungent may suffer from fungal diseases

These diseases are treated according to the same algorithm.:

1. All damaged parts of the plant completely remove;
2. Under the root, clematis is watered solution of basezole or azocel;
3. During the growing season foliage sprayed with polycarbocin (when spotting appears, polycarbocin is replaced with copper or iron sulfate).

Measures to prevent the appearance of diseases will be proper care, adherence to the watering and feeding regimes of the plant.

Insects rarely settle on burning clematis, but in order to scare them away, annual plants with a specific smell, such as calendula or marigolds, are planted next to the liana.

If the pests are still wound up, then you can get rid of them with the help of insecticide treatments. In order to notice insects in time, clematis is regularly examined. and immediately remove leaves that show visible signs of damage.

Problems that can be faced when growing clematis

Stagnant growth	In the second year after planting, in June, the growth of clematis reaches 20 centimeters and stops. This means that the care regimen has been violated.	To help the plant start to grow, it is necessary to increase the number of watering and double or triple feeding with nitrogen-containing fertilizers, such as urea.
Drying tops	If the tops of the creeper begin to curl and dry out, this means that the plant has enough watering or aphids have started up on it.	When clematis is affected by insects, it is sprayed three times with a decoction of tobacco dust or hot pepper, while maintaining an interval of 3-4 days. If traditional methods have not helped, you can use chemicals.
Chopping bloom	If the flowers of pungent clematis cease to form lush clouds, then most likely this means that the suction roots that are at a depth do not receive moisture.	In this case, a shallow trench is dug around the plant and water is poured there when watering. This trench can also be used for fertilization.

Clematis pungent is a very beautiful plant that can be used to decorate any garden area. It will add tenderness and airiness to any composition. A pleasant bonus for any gardener will be unpretentious care. and good frost resistance.

Hello! Clematis growing from seeds, planting and care in the open field, photo and video tips in our material. Clematis (lat. Clematis), or clematis, or willow, is a genus of perennials of the buttercup family. This is a gentle and charming handsome man, a luxurious seducer of the hearts of gardeners.

Clematis can boldly compete in beauty with exotic overseas wonders: large flowers of various colors fall into the garden from a two-meter height with a waterfall.

Like any handsome man, clematis will make the owners take care of themselves, without this they cannot wait for its lush flowering.But, as a noble gentleman, he will thank you for your efforts, giving you the opportunity to admire the luxurious flowers for several weeks.

RELATED ARTICLE: Clematis in the Urals - growing and care.

Different types of clematis are not very similar to each other. Among them there are shrubs, shrubs, herbaceous perennials, but most of the species belong to the group of lianas. Bisexual clematis flowers are single or collected in inflorescences of various shapes (half-umbel, scutellum, panicle).

The color gamut of clematis is very wide: from pale pink to dark red, from light blue to velvet blue, and, of course, there are clematis of white and yellow shades. Each flower lives for two to three weeks, many varieties of clematis exude an aroma reminiscent of primrose, jasmine or almonds.

Clematis growing from seed

In the huge variety of species and varieties of clematis for gardeners, there is a temptation to start breeding yourself. For those who are interested in growing clematis from seeds, it is worth knowing the necessary information about this process.

According to the size of the seeds and the duration of their germination, clematis are divided into three groups:

• ❶ Clematis with large seeds that germinate for a very long time and unevenly - from one and a half to eight months, or even longer (clematis of Durant, Jacqueman, purple, woolly, etc.).
• ❷ Clematis, the seeds of which are medium in size and germinate within one and a half to six months (clematis whole-leaf, Manchurian, six-petal, Douglas, Chinese, etc.).
• ❸ Clematis with small seeds, germinating both quickly and amicably - from two weeks to four months maximum (clematis Tangut, grape-leaved, etc.).

Clematis seeds harvested this year germinate best, but if stored in paper bags at 18-23 ºC, it will last four years for germination. According to the sowing time, the timing is as follows: small seeds are sown in March-April, medium ones - after the New Year holidays, and large ones - immediately after harvesting, in the fall or at the beginning of winter.

To accelerate germination, the seeds must be soaked in water for ten days, changing the water 4-5 times a day. Then put in a container a substrate consisting of equal parts of earth, sand and peat, moisten it, spread the seeds on it in one layer, sprinkle it with a layer of sand 2-3 times the diameter of the seed and, slightly compacting, cover with a fine mesh or glass.

The optimum temperature for clematis germination is 25-30 ºC. From time to time, the substrate is gently watered into the pan so as not to wash the seeds, and the emerging weeds are removed.

Saplings of clematis

When seedlings emerge, provide them with adequate light, but protect them from direct sunlight. When the first true leaves appear in the seedlings, they dive into separate pots or bowls and grow in room conditions until the last frost has passed.

Then the seedlings are transplanted to a shady area, in light soil, observing an interval of 15-20 cm between them. From time to time, pinch the plants so that they increase the root mass and branch more strongly.

In the fall, cover your seedlings, and in the spring, transplant them again into a trench 5-7 cm deep, keeping a distance of half a meter between the seedlings.

Shorten the shoots, leaving a few knots on them. After 2-3 years, when the seedlings have at least three elastic roots 10-15 cm long, they will be ready for transplantation to a permanent place.

Clematis planting in open ground

How to plant clematis

To grow clematis to give the expected result, we first find out where and when to plant it. The landing site should be protected from drafts and well lit, but shading is desirable at midday. The soil is preferable slightly alkaline, loamy, fertile, well fertilized and drained.

The best place for clematis is a mound or a specially made embankment, which will not allow the root of an adult plant reaching a meter in length to rot from the proximity of groundwater.Do not use either fresh manure or sour peat as fertilizer - plants do not like this.

Do not plant clematis close to the wall of the house (water flowing down from the roof after rain should not fall on the clematis) or the fence, keep a distance of at least 30 cm.

As for the time, the planting of clematis is carried out both in the spring and in the fall. If the purchased clematis seedling is in a container, then you can plant it at any time of the year, except for winter.

But if you did not manage to plant the purchased clematis in the fall, store them in a cool (no warmer than +5 ºC) room, sprinkle the roots with moist loose soil (sawdust with sand), pinching the shoots from time to time to restrain their growth until spring.

If you find that the roots of clematis are dry, soak them in cold water for several hours before planting to swell.

Planting clematis in spring

In places with a cool climate, it is customary to plant clematis in the spring, in late April or early May. A spring seedling must have at least one shoot. Dig a hole 60x60x60, pour 10-15 cm of crushed stone, broken brick or perlite on the bottom for drainage.

If the land on the site is infertile, change it to fertile by adding 2-3 buckets of compost, one bucket of sand and peat, 400 g of dolomite flour and 150 g of superphosphate (mix everything thoroughly, preferably a year before planting).

Install removable or dig in stationary supports for shoots up to 2.5 m in height, they will support the vines in strong winds.

Pour a mound of prepared earth on the drainage layer, place a seedling on it, distribute the roots carefully over it and cover it with prepared soil so that not only the neck of clematis is 5-10 cm underground, but the stem of the shoot up to the first internode is also in the ground ...

Fill the hole with soil not to the level of the surface, but so that it remains 8-10 cm to it. Water the plant with a bucket of water and mulch the recess around the clematis with peat. During the spring-summer season, the excavation is gradually filled with soil.

The distance between clematis bushes should be at least a meter!

Planting clematis in the fall

In the southern, warmer regions, it is customary to plant clematis in autumn, in September-October, provided that the planted clematis has developed vegetative buds. Autumn planting is carried out according to the same principle as spring planting, only the planting pit is completely covered with earth.

From above, the planting site is mulched with a layer of dry leaves and covered with lutrasil or something else. In the spring, around these seedlings, the soil is selected to the same depth (8-10 cm), but during the summer this excavation is gradually filled with soil until the levels coincide.

This is done to make it easier for the shoots to break through to the surface.

Clematis outdoor care

Clematis care is within the power of any florist, even a beginner. Clematis loves moisture, so it needs good watering at least once a week, and 2-3 times in a hot summer. Young plants drink 10-20 liters at a time, more mature ones - 20-40 liters.

Dig in a few pots with a hole in the bottom around the clematis bushes, and the water that fills them during watering will slowly penetrate deep into the soil and moisten the layer in which the roots of adult clematis are located, languishing with thirst in the hot summer.

If you did not mulch the soil in the spring, then you will have to loosen it from time to time a day after watering, simultaneously with weeding. Mulch helps to retain moisture in the soil and prevents weeds, so do not neglect the advice, mulch the soil with peat, moss or humus.

As for the use of fertilizers, then in the first year you do not need to overuse fertilizers so that the weak plant does not rot along with the fertilizers. Clematis are fed during the period of active growth with nitrogen fertilizers, during the budding period with potash fertilizers, after flowering with phosphorus fertilizers, and after summer pruning with full mineral fertilizer at the rate of 20 g per bucket of water and copper solution.

Every spring, clematis is watered with milk of lime (chalk and dolomite flour). Do not feed clematis during flowering, otherwise it will lose activity. In a rainy summer, sprinkle the lower part of the trunk with wood ash to prevent root rot.

Supports for clematis

To hold the vines, there are such types of supports as arches, fan structures and pyramids on sale. Choose what you like best, but remember that the thickness of the part that the vine will directly cling to should be no more than 1-1.2 cm in diameter.

Take into account the fact that, growing, clematis gain a large mass and become heavy, especially after rain, therefore, the strength of the material from which the supports are made is of great importance.

A good idea is a cylinder dug into the ground made of a rare metal mesh - such an openwork "pipe with legs" inside which clematis will grow, subsequently covering the metal mesh with its leaves and flowers.

Clematis reproduction

We have already written about how to grow clematis from seeds. In addition to the seed method of reproduction in culture, the reproduction of clematis by autumn and summer layering, by pinning young shoots and dividing the bush is used.

The division of the bush is carried out in plants no older than 6 years old; it is very difficult to fight with the powerful root system of an older plant. The bush is carefully removed, the root is cleared of the ground and divided by pruning shears so that each division has buds on the root collar.

To make layering, cut off the leaves from the shoots in the fall in October, separate the faded part to the first developed bud, weave them into a bundle and lay the clematis cuttings in grooves with a layer of peat, fix them, sprinkle the shoots with peat on top, then cover it with earth and compact it.

Cover the plant with spruce branches or dry foliage for the winter.

When spring comes, water the planting site often and abundantly and, as soon as the shoots appear, mulch the surface around them with peat or humus. By the fall, many of the young plants will be ready to be transplanted to a permanent location.

You need to dig out the sprouts with a pitchfork so as not to damage the roots. Layers can also be laid in the summer, but then it will be difficult to preserve the shoots in the winter.

In the spring, it is better to do the pinning of the shoots: last year's shoots at the site of the knot are pinned into pots with loose earth and peat, dug into the ground below the surface level so that water does not spread out during watering.

As the seedling grows, the soil is poured into the pot with a tubercle, and by autumn excellent clematis seedlings grow from the shoots.

Pruning clematis

Pruning clematis is done during the growth of the plant, as needed to extend the flowering period, and for the winter. If you remember, there are three groups of clematis:

• ❶ The first group of clematis (group A). In this group, flowers are formed on last year's shoots, so only weak shoots are cut off. Do this after flowering in June. Before winter, clematis huddle high.
• ❷ The second group of clematis (group B) blooms both on last year's shoots and on the shoots of the current year. Pruning is done at a level of 0.5-1 m, leaving 2-5 pairs of buds, and weak shoots are cut to the base. The liana is removed from the support, folded up and neatly laid at the roots.
• ❸ The third group of clematis (group C) forms inflorescences only on young shoots of the current year, clematis of this group are pruned several times during the growing season. In the fall, all shoots are cut to ground level or slightly higher.

Clematis post-flowering care

When autumn comes, you need to think about how your clematis will live in winter. In dry weather, under the base of any clematis, in the center of the bush on the eve of winter, pour out a bucket of humus, after removing all the leaves and treating the neck of the plant with a two percent solution of copper sulfate.

Then you need to spud the clematis to a height of 10-15 cm with sand and ash (250 g of ash per bucket of sand).

They cover clematis that need it in a dry way:

1. shoots are bent or twisted and laid on the base,
2. cover with dry leaves (spruce branches, even crushed foam is used),
3. then covered with a wooden box so that there is air around the plant,
4. roofing felt, roofing felt or other waterproof material is laid on the box, which is pressed down in the corners with stones or bricks, so as not to be blown away by the wind,
5. and from above all this is covered with an earthen or peat layer of 20-25 cm.

In the spring, the soil and the film are first removed, and the spruce branches or leaves are removed only when the threat of frost has passed. The shoots are carefully lifted, straightened and distributed on supports.

Clematis diseases and pests

Most often, clematis suffer from such a fungal disease as wilting. Plants lose tissue elasticity, wither and dry out. There are several causative agents of diseases with such symptoms, but they all live in the soil and affect primarily the root system.

Therefore, it is very important to comply with agrotechnical requirements, especially since the manifestation of the disease can be noticed already in early spring. In May, remove the affected areas and pour clematis under the root with two percent solutions: Fundazol or Azocene.

Severely affected specimens must be removed along with a clod of earth, and the place where they grew is disinfected with the same preparations. The same means (Fundazol and Azocene) fight diseases such as gray mold and powdery mildew.

Rust affects clematis, also a fungal disease, manifested by orange pads on leaves and shoots in spring. As a result of the development of the disease, the leaves turn brown, dry, the shoots are deformed.

Against rust, spraying with a 1-2% Bordeaux mixture, as well as oxychom or copper oxychloride, is used. At the end of summer, dark gray necrosis may appear on the leaves and shoots, making them velvety and changing their color.

In the middle of summer, clematis can get sick with ascotichosis, which causes necrotic spots of irregular shape on the leaves, or cylindrosporiasis, which "decorates" the leaves with bright yellow spots. Against all these diseases, preparations containing copper are effective - a 1% solution of copper sulfate, for example.

Clematis is resistant to viral diseases, but sucking pests can infect the plant with a yellow mosaic of leaves, against which there are no drugs yet, so the diseased plants will have to be destroyed. In the future, do not plant clematis next to plants that are easily affected by mosaics - hosta, sweet peas, delphinium, aquilegia, phlox and peony.

Sometimes clematis are affected by rootworm or leaf nematodes. When removing rotten specimens, look at the condition of the plant roots, and if you find nodules on the roots, do not plant clematis in this area for several years.

You will learn the types and varieties of clematis by the link.

Where to buy clematis seeds

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The main task of NPO Sady Rossii is to provide gardeners with high-quality planting material for popular varieties of various garden plants and novelties of world selection. Delivery of planting material (seeds, bulbs, seedlings) is carried out by Russian post.

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The beginning of the cultivation of clematis in Western Europe dates back to the 16th century, and in Japan the culture of clematis has an even longer history. In Russia, clematis appeared at the beginning of the 19th century as greenhouse plants. Active work on the cultivation and introduction of clematis in our country began to develop only in the middle of the 20th century.As a result of breeding work, wonderful varieties and forms have been created, which further emphasize the unique charm of these magnificent plants.

Clematis

Clematis, or clematis, or wicker (Clematis)

Buttercup family. Of the nearly 300 species in the genus Clematis, 108 are native to China. The name of this plant comes from the Greek word “clematis”, which means “branch or shoot of grapes”. In Russian, Clematis is called "clematis". Clematis are vines, shrubs or herbaceous perennials with woody flexible stems that can die off for the winter or hibernate under cover. Depending on the size of the flower, there are small-flowered (up to 5 cm in diameter) and large-flowered (more than 5 cm in diameter) clematis. Species plants are propagated by seeds, and varietal plants are propagated by dividing the bush or by cuttings.

Work calendar

Necessary measures and approximate terms of work for the care of clematis.

The time of one or another agrotechnical reception depends on the geographical location of the site and weather conditions. Your personal observations of the growth and development of plants will make adjustments to the timing of the work.

Work on the care of adult clematis begins in April.

• April... From the middle of the month, the winter shelters should be removed very gradually. There is no need to rush. If you remove the entire shelter, clematis sprouts will appear above the ground, and quite likely frost will destroy the root collar, the most vulnerable part of the plant. Splitting of the root collar from spring frosts is the most common cause of the death of clematis.
• May... Time of spring revision of plants. You can transplant young seedlings to a permanent place and divide old bushes. Loosening, weeding. It is necessary to install new supports under the clematis or check the reliability of the old ones. As the shoots grow, they are attached to the supports.
  If the sprouts of some plants do not appear, then it is still premature to talk about death. It is necessary to carefully excavate and see the condition of the kidneys and root system. Sometimes it is useful to dig up the plant, rinse it in water, divide by the number of living buds and plant in a new place. And sometimes - just wait for the start of growth.
• June... - active growth of clematis. Weeding, loosening, tying stitches to supports. It is useful to spill clematis with milk of lime and feed them with slurry.
• July... Lush bloom of all clematis in your garden. Watering is necessary in dry weather. Watering is necessary rarely, but abundantly enough. Once every 2 weeks, you can feed it with slurry and mineral fertilizers.
• August... It is advisable to add ash to the top dressing. This promotes better ripening of the whips and improves the winter hardiness of plants. Feeding with organic fertilizers and nitrogen is gradually stopped. In August, it is important to monitor the health of the bushes. A disease such as wilting clematis most often manifests itself in August.
• September... Loosening the soil, weeding. Top dressing is stopped. Plants can be transplanted to better locations.
• October... In the middle of the month, autumn pruning of clematis begins. It is important to make sure that the root collar is covered with earth. If it is on the surface, then sprinkle it with humus or compost. When the air temperature drops, plants begin to gradually cover.
• November... With the onset of stable frosts, in dry weather, they finish the shelter of clematis for the winter. One of the serious dangers is the onset of frost before snow falls. With a constant snow cover, clematis do not need shelter at all, but frosts after a thaw can damage the plant.

Having covered clematis for the winter, you can safely part with your favorites until spring.

Clematis jackmanii

Landing

Since clematis can grow in one place for more than 20 years, they prepare the ground very deeply in advance. Usually, holes are dug with a size of at least 60x60x60 cm, and for group plantings, the site is prepared over the entire area.2-3 buckets of humus or compost, 1 bucket of peat and sand, 100-150 g of superphosphate, 200 g of complete mineral fertilizer, preferably 100 g of bone meal, 150 -200 g of lime or chalk, 200 g of ash. On light soils, more peat, leaf humus and clay are added. If the soil on the site is wet, dense or clayey, then a 10-1 5-cm layer of crushed stone, broken brick or coarse sand is poured onto the bottom of the pit. Thoroughly mixed earthen mixture is poured into the pit and compacted. In the southern regions, it is preferable to do this in autumn (from late September to early November; in the middle lane the best time is September (in warm weather - and later); even further north, clematis are planted in spring (late April - May) or early autumn. Plants in containers can be planted whenever you want (except for winter, of course).

A solid, rigid support is installed in the center of the pit. A stretched rope is not suitable here, it will not protect young fragile whips from gusts of wind. Having covered the hole with soil about half, they make a mound on which the roots of clematis are spread to the sides and down. Holding the plant with your hand, pour the mixture to the roots, making sure that the clematis is planted deeply. Only then will he develop a tillering center, on which new buds are subsequently laid, shoots and roots are formed. Such bushes better tolerate severe winters, suffer less from heat. Clematis planted flush with the surface are short-lived: they do not bush, grow in 1-2 stems, their root system suffers from soaking. The larger the seedling, the deeper the planting should be. Young one-two-year-old plants are buried by 8-12 cm and the lower pair of buds, more mature and divided bushes - by 12-18 cm.If clematis is planted in the spring, then the planting hole is not filled with earth to the brim, but 5-8 cm are left uncovered, so that the “newcomer” does not “suffocate”. As the shoots become lignified, this space is gradually filled with soil. After planting, clematis is watered abundantly, shaded from the sun, and the surface of the earth around the plant is mulched with peat. When planting in the fall, the ground is poured to the edges, the entire aboveground part is cut off to the soil level or slightly higher.

Location

Clematis are light-loving plants. If there is not enough light, not only will you not achieve good flowering, you may not even wait for it at all. Therefore, in the middle lane, it is best to plant them in sunny or slightly shaded areas at midday. Only in the southern regions, where clematis often suffer from overheating of the soil, are they planted in partial shade. For group plantings, each plant should receive enough light, and the distance between the bushes should be at least 1 meter.

The wind is a terrible enemy of clematis not only in summer, but also in winter: it breaks and confuses shoots, damages flowers. Where snow is blown off in winter, planting clematis is not a good idea. And in the lowlands, where cold air accumulates, clematis feel uncomfortable. Clematis are very demanding on moisture: during their growth, they need abundant watering. At the same time, wet, swampy areas with a high standing of groundwater (less than 1.2 m are not suitable for them, even if the water stagnates only for a short time. Waterlogging of the soil is dangerous not only in summer, but also in early spring during and after snow melting When planning the planting of clematis, you need to consider the natural outflow of water from the bush: add soil, plant bushes on ridges or dig slopes with a slope.

Clematis

Care

In spring, clematis is spilled with milk of lime (200 g of lime per 10 liters of water per square meter). In dry weather, clematis is watered not often, but abundantly, making sure that the stream of water does not fall into the center of the bush. Clematis are fed at least four times per season after irrigation with full mineral fertilizer with microelements at the rate of 20-40 g per 10 liters of water or a diluted fermented mullein (1:10). Mineral and organic dressings alternate.In summer, once a month, plants are watered with a weak solution of boric acid (1-2 g) and potassium permanganate (2-3 g per 10 liters of water), and the bushes are also sprayed with urea (0.5 tablespoons per 10 liters of water). Since clematis can suffer from overheating and dryness of the soil, in the spring, after the first watering and loosening of the planting, they should be mulched with peat or humus (in the northern regions) or sawdust (in the southern regions). To protect the soil from overheating and to close the lower part of the shoots, clematis are “knocked out” by lettucers. In the spring, only for the first time, the vines are directed along the support in the right direction and tied up. Otherwise, the growing shoots will intertwine so strongly that no forces will be able to untangle them. Only in the varieties of the Integrifolia group, shoots and leaves are deprived of the ability to wrap around supports, therefore they are tied up as they grow all summer. In the fall, before sheltering for the winter, clematis bushes are cut and carefully cleaned of old leaves. The first two or three years, young specimens require particularly careful care: in the fall or early spring, well-rotted manure mixed with any potash and phosphorus fertilizer, as well as wood ash (a handful of each in a bucket of humus) is poured onto the bushes, liquid fertilizing is done every 10- 15 days in small doses.

Pruning clematis

Pruning clematis as an agronomic measure is important.

Sanitary pruning is carried out throughout the season, and dried and broken shoots are regularly removed. By pruning, you can regulate the growth and flowering of clematis. But the main thing that worries flower lovers is autumn pruning. It depends on the type and variety of clematis.

There are 3 ways of pruning for the winter, differing in the varieties of clematis.

• All varieties of the Jacquemann and Viticella groups. These clematis bloom on the shoots of the current year. Therefore, during autumn pruning, you need to cut off the entire plant, leaving 2-3 nodes above the ground. It is convenient to use a long sharp knife for this operation. Clematis blooming on the shoots of the current year is easier than others to cover for the winter, because there is no need to preserve shoots until spring. Therefore, they have become widespread in our gardens.
• Varieties of the Lanuginoza group, or woolly clematis, some varieties of the Patens and Florida groups. The varieties of this group bloom in the spring on overwintered shoots, and towards the end of summer - on the shoots of the current year. The bush is cut to a height of 50-100 cm from the ground, the lower healthy and ripe shoots are laid on the ground and covered. If the plant needs rejuvenation, then it can be cut down below, to the first true leaf.
• Clematis of groups Patens (spreading) and Florida (flowering). These varieties bloom only on overwintered shoots. Weak and non-lignified shoots are cut for the winter. The rest are shortened, leaving two-thirds of the height, but not more than 1-1.5 m. The scourges are folded and laid on the ground under a thorough shelter.
  The varieties Patens and Florida are the most difficult to winter; if the shoots do not survive or the flower buds freeze, then there will be no abundant flowering this year.
  But it is the varieties of these groups that give the largest, beautiful, often double flowers, worthy of decorating the gardens of experienced florists. For beginners, we recommend purchasing varieties of the Zhakmana, Vititsella groups and some varieties of the Lanuginoza group.

Clematis

Reproduction

There are two main methods of propagation of all plants: seed and vegetative. Seed is the sowing of seeds, with the vegetative method, parts of plants are used: roots, cuttings of stems, green and lignified cuttings.

Seeds

It is impossible to propagate hybrid large-flowered clematis by seeds, because grown seedlings do not repeat the properties and varietal characteristics of the parent plant, the method is suitable only for reproduction of species small-flowered clematis.

Division of the bush.

This is the easiest way of breeding clematis available to every flower lover. You can divide the bushes 5-6 years after planting, in autumn or spring.Dig up the bush, divide it into several parts, plant each part according to the rules set out in the landing section.

If the bush is very large and it is not possible to dig it up, then you need to dig it up on one side and separate part of the plant with a shovel.

• Advantages of the method: the resulting plants bloom quickly.
• Disadvantages: all diseases of the mother bush are transmitted, in some cases the plants do not take root well due to a violation of the balance of roots and shoots.

Reproduction by layering

In spring or autumn, grooves are dug radially from the bush, 5-10 cm deep. Lateral shoots are laid in these grooves, pressed with wire brackets, covered with earth or peat.
After a year, the rooted shoots can be separated from the plant and planted on their own.

• Advantages of the method: easy to use, does not reduce the decorative effect of the mother bushes.
• Disadvantages: diseases of mother plants can be transmitted, not suitable for industrial use.

Clematis

Cuttings

The method of obtaining a large number of seedlings in an industrial environment is also used by amateurs.

Cutting by timing is divided into winter, spring and summer.

Planting material - cuttings, green or lignified are used. To improve the result, growth stimulants are used: heteroauxin, beta-indolylbutyric acid, anaphthylacetic acid, such ready-made preparations as epin, root, etc. It is very important to maintain the temperature regime, 18-20 degrees, constant air humidity. Cuttings root best when using a fogging machine. Plants should be protected from direct sunlight, overheating, drying out and high humidity.

The main advantage of the method is to obtain healthy seedlings without hereditary diseases, developing on their own roots.

Types and varieties

Clematis of the Jacquemann group - their ancestor is the large-flowered Clematis Jacques (Clematis jackmanii). Large shrub vines with shoots 3-4 m long and a well-developed root system. The flowers are large (12-16 cm in diameter), blue-violet-purple tones, odorless.

They are distinguished by abundant and long flowering on the shoots of the current year from June to frost. For the winter, the shoots are cut to the level of the soil or the bases of the shoots are left with 2-3 pairs of buds.

• Varieties: Gypsy Queen, Nikolay Rubtsov, Madame Vilar, Hegley Hybrid, Comtes de Bouchot, Georg Ots, Luther Burbank, Negro.

Clematis jackmanii

Group of varieties clematis purple, or clematis vine (Clematis viticella) (Viticella) - lianas up to 3 m high with flowers 8-12 cm of the predominant pink-red-purupral tone. Bloom from June to frost on the shoots of the current year.

• Varieties: Ville de Lyon, Ernest Markham, Cloud, Lilac Star, Nikitsky pink, Niobe.

Violet Clematis, or Vineyard Clematis (Clematis viticella)

Group of varieties clematis sprawling (Clematis patens) (Patens) - curly, up to 4 m high. Flowers up to 15 cm in diameter, often double with a predominance of white and pale blue tones. Bloom from July to September on the shoots of the last year. They are thermophilic and suffer from frost.

• Varieties: Nadezhda, President.

Florida group clematis - lianas up to 4 m high. Occurred when crossing flowering clematis (Clematis florida) with species and varieties of other groups. Flowers of various colors, usually double, 8-12 cm in diameter. Flowering in June-July on overwintered shoots.

• Varieties: Daniel Deronda, Mrs. Cholmondeli.

Group of varieties whole-leaf clematis (Clematis integrifolia) (Integrifolia) - vigorous, climbing shrubs or climbing non-clinging vines 1 - 2.5 m high. Bell-shaped flowers, drooping, 5 - 12 cm in diameter, of different colors, are formed on the shoots of the current year. Bloom from June to September.

• Varieties: Gray bird, Blue rain.

Spreading clematis, cultivar 'Josephine Evijohill' (Clematis patens)

Group of varieties clematis woolly (Clematis lanuginosa) (Lanuginosa) - lianas up to 3 m high with flowers of white or blue tones (there is often a bright strip in the center) up to 15 cm in size. Flowering from June and repeated in August-September on the shoots of the last year.

• Varieties: Ballerina, Serenade, Virginia, Blue Gem, Ramona, Doctor Ruppel, Blue Light, Multi Blue, Jacques Manialba, Olympics-80.

Group of varieties clematis mountain (Clematis montana) (Montana) - They are characterized by abundant flowering in May on the shoots of the last year. Partial pruning in early spring.

Group of varieties clematis texas (Clematis texensis) (Texensis) originated from the crossing of Texas Clematis with different species, varieties and forms of other groups.

Group of varieties clematis hogweed (Clematis heracleifolia) - vigorous climbing shrubs that bloom profusely on the shoots of the current year from July to October. Pruning in early spring.

Group of varieties clematis isfahan (Clematis ispahanica) (Isfahanica) - there is only one species in the group, obtained as a result of mutation of the original species. Blooms profusely on the shoots of the current year in July-September. Pruning in early spring.

Woolly Clematis, cultivar 'Multi Blue' (Clematis lanuginosa)

In regions where there are severe frosts in winter and short summers, i.e. in the northwestern regions of the European part of Russia, Siberia and the Far East, it is better to plant clematis from the Jacquemann, Integrifolia and Viticella groups, namely early and mid-early varieties: Ville de Lyon, Gipsy Queen, Victoria, Luther Burbank, Silver Stream, Hegley Hybrid, Madame Baron Vilar, Blue Flame, Alexandrite, Golden Jubilee, Alyonushka, Victory Salute, Anastasia Anisimova, Rouge Cardinal, Gray Bird, Cloud, Anre Leroy, Lilac Star, Niobe. But some varieties of the Zhakman group prefer southern places more - Elegy, Alpinist, Biryuzinka, Openwork.

Clematis of the Lanuginoza groups, Patens, Florida (their first flowering occurs on the shoots of last year) are less winter-hardy and require shelter of vines even in the middle lane. But some varieties (Nelly Moser, Stone Flower, Ramona, Lazurshtern, Ball of Flowers, Nadezhda, Mrs. Hope, Mrs. Cholmondeli) grow and bloom beautifully in the northern regions.

In the southern regions, clematis with double flowers bloom profusely: Daniel Deronda, Jeanne d'Arc, Lord Neville. In the middle lane, these varieties will have terry only the first flowers on overwintered last year's shoots.

Low-growing varieties of clematis grow on sunny balconies - Jeanne d'Arc, Hegley Hybrid, Comtes de Bouchot, Madame Edouard Andre, Ruytel, Cardinal Rouge.

Most wild species with flowers up to 4 - 5 cm in diameter are considered small-flowered clematis. Species clematis are less common, although they are unpretentious, grow quickly, and are resistant to drought and fungal diseases. Their flowering lasts from 2 weeks to 4 months and is no less spectacular than that of large-flowered counterparts.

Clematis hogweed (Clematis heracleifolia)

In our country, clematis hogweed, Gournana, forest (in the south it can be affected by powdery mildew), paniculate, serrate-leaved, straight and its forms, gray, Tangut, purple and its forms, whole-leaved, six-leafed. For areas with a dry and hot climate, grape-leaved, virgin, oriental, ligous-leaved, etc. clematis are most suitable.

In the northwest, Siberia and the Far East, clematis alpine, brown, burning (especially for the more southern regions), Chinese, bell-flowered, short-tailed, large-petalled, Okhotsk and others will grow well, and for the southeastern regions also Dzungarian and Isfahan. In places with a mild, cool and humid climate, you should try Manchurian clematis, Redera, Fargeza.

Diseases and pests

Clematis is a durable and healthy plant, but it can sometimes be affected by diseases and pests.

All existing plant diseases are divided into 2 groups: infectious and non-infectious.Infectious diseases are caused by fungi, bacteria and viruses. Non-communicable diseases are caused by unfavorable growing conditions.

All measures aimed at plant health are divided into preventive and therapeutic ones. Preventive measures are carried out annually, all healthy plants are processed. Therapeutic measures are carried out when signs of diseases or pests appear.

The main enemies of clematis are fungal diseases. The most dangerous of these are fusarium and wilt (wilting). These diseases are promoted by high air humidity and waterlogging of the soil. The best control and prevention measures are compliance with agrotechnical measures, a good place for clematis planting. If any fungal disease manifests itself, it is necessary to carry out a sanitary pruning of the damaged parts of the plant; all cut-out remains must be burned. Plants can be sprayed with 1% Bordeaux liquid, copper or iron sulfate.
Against wilt of the shoots (wilt), the soil and the base of the shoots are sprayed with foundation (20 g per 10 l of water) or another approved fungicide.

Good results for the prevention of diseases and pests are obtained by planting next to clematis of calendula or marigolds. These annuals shade the base of clematis shoots, scare away pests with their specific smell, do not complicate weeding, as they are removed in autumn. In addition, most clematis look very beautiful against the background of these yellow-orange plants.

Among the pests of clematis, a nematode is sometimes found. In this case, it is more prudent to destroy the plant and disinfect the soil.

The fight against other pests - mites, flies, thrips is carried out by the usual methods.

The most important thing to protect your garden from dangerous infectious diseases is to carefully check the purchased planting material.

These wonderful plants are becoming more and more popular due to their unusually beautiful large flowers of various colors and extraordinary duration of flowering. And besides, most varieties are characterized by good winter hardiness, unpretentiousness and durability. We are waiting for your comments!