Planting and caring for black radish outdoors

Black radish is not a variety. It is a variety with early, medium and late sowing varieties. The features that distinguish the species are the dark rind and the greatest sharpness of the pulp. The cultivation of black radish in Russia is carried out in the XII century. It was used as an extremely useful and medicinal vegetable. Culture came from the East and fell in love with the people for its useful properties and productivity.

Growing black radish

Among the people, varieties of medium and late ripening with black peel and white pulp are very famous. It is imperative to maintain the timing of sowing radish seeds, since the length of the day is of great importance for the development of plants. Distinguish:

• early small-fruited varieties, sown in March;
• early ripening varieties, sown in late April, early May;
• mid-season varieties sown at the zenith of summer;
• late varieties, sown in mid-July.

The recommended planting dates for black radish, planting and care techniques are always on the seed packages, they must be adhered to. Varietal characteristics allow, with proper culture management, to avoid shooting or cracking of root crops. This is especially important for a product intended for winter storage. All varieties of black radish have a two-year growing season, which means that you can get seeds only in the second year.

Usually, black radish is planted on the bed that has been vacated after early salads or onions when the recommended period comes up. Before that, the soil is well dug up and filled with fertilizer. Experienced vegetable growers believe that radish will be more juicy if grown on mineral fertilizers without adding compost. At the same time, the land should be loose and fertile.

The garden bed is dug up with the addition of a glass of ash, three tablespoons of superphosphate, and one each of potassium chloride and urea. The earth is dug to a depth of 35 cm, leveled and grooves or holes are made with a distance between plants of 15 cm and between rows of 30. Seeds are sown to a depth of about three cm, several in a nest, so that later the strongest seedling will be left. During the growing season, the plants are thinned twice more in order to exclude the thickening of the plants.

The land at the planting site should always be wet and pubescent with ash, since it is at this time that cruciferous fleas are raging. Seedlings will appear in a few days, and it will be an important task to protect them from the pest. Further care will include the following activities:

• constant content of plants in the moist layer of the earth;
• removal of weak plants;
• loosen the soil, avoiding the formation of a crust;
• protect sheets from pest infestation;
• harvest before the onset of frost.

Keeping the soil moist removes the question of why the radish turns into color. In addition, hard clay soil can affect the quality of root crops. In such conditions, the radish grows clumsy and cracks. Therefore, the choice of planting site and soil quality will be the key to a good harvest. It is impossible to use fresh organic fertilizers as soil filling and top dressing.

Experienced gardeners advise to swing the root crop a little during the growing process in order to remove the side roots. The plant, feeding only through the taproot, grows medium-sized and juicy.

Radish has a lot of pests. How to grow a commercial black radish? Do not allow carrot fly or cruciferous flea larvae to spoil the root crop. Bacteria and spores of putrefactive fungi will penetrate into the pulp through the damaged skin and such a fruit will not be stored. In addition, the radish can be damaged by the cabbage leaf beetle, aphids, slugs, and rape flower beetle.

Biologicals and enzymes can be used to control pests. For example, lipocide or fitoverm. They decompose quickly and do not affect the quality of root crops. The thickened plantings are most damaged. Therefore, summer residents often use the edges of the beds for sowing and growing black radish, arranging rare holes around the perimeter of potato, onion, cucumber plantings in order to exclude common pests.

When to harvest black radish?

For storage, black radish of late and medium varieties is grown. These varieties include Skvirskaya black, Winter round black; Gaivoronskaya. The varieties can be stored for up to 200 days. To do this, it is necessary to remove healthy roots before the first frost, since frozen roots are not stored.

Late-ripening Gaivoronskaya radish gets a marketable root crop 110-120 days after sowing. A medium-ripening Black Winter Radish is ready for harvesting in 80 days. When to harvest black radish depends on the selected variety.

For storage, the tops are removed from the root crops, they are slightly dried in a dark cool room and stored in the cellar. Radish contains mineral salts, trace elements and essential oils. A very useful product is also a remedy in traditional medicine.

In ancient Greece, black radish was considered the queen of vegetables, a golden copy was created and presented as a gift to Apollo. And in Egypt, this vegetable was considered the food of slaves.

However, millennia have passed, and radish continues to be a necessary vegetable on all continents. It is important to know that this product is contraindicated for those who have problems with diseases of internal organs in the acute stage.

Dishes with the participation of black radish deliver potassium to the body, which stimulates life processes. It is a storehouse of mineral salts, vitamins and trace elements. However, the mustard oil and esters present in radish in high concentration irritate the kidneys, liver and gastrointestinal tract. For a healthy person, this action only stimulates the organs to work. Radish gruel can serve as a hair mask and compress on sore joints. Therefore, radish should be included in a healthy diet.

All about radish - video

Black radish, how easy it is to grow in the open field, what kind of care it needs, how important is the planting time, we will consider in the article.

This is not to say that radish is the most popular vegetable on our table today. Due to the great abundance and variety of other products, vegetables and fruits now, radish has gone into the category of almost forgotten delicacies of Russian cuisine. But in vain! It differs among vegetable crops by a high content of mineral salts (potassium, phosphorus, sodium, iron, calcium, magnesium, sulfur, etc.), specific essential (rare) oil, vitamin C, A, PP, group B and many others. bactericidal properties. And just delicious.Improves appetite, activates the digestive tract, has choleretic properties, lowers blood cholesterol levels.

But even now there are true connoisseurs of the forgotten root crop and its cultivation by summer residents in their summer cottages is being revived. And every year their number grows, and again interest in its unusual piquant taste and benefits is restored. In addition, many modern recipes have appeared, of which it is rightfully an ingredient. Also, its beneficial properties are widely used in traditional medicine.

Of all the varieties (margelan, white, red, black), black radish is especially tasty and loved.

Planting subtleties or how to grow black radish

Agrotechnical cultivationI always starts with soil preparation and site selection, taking into account crop rotation. Although summer cottages, as a rule, do not differ in large sizes, it is better to plant radish annually in different places and try to take into account the predecessor at the same time.

Radish comes from the cabbage family and its direct relatives are daikon, radish, turnip, cabbage. They, too, are always on the site. Accordingly, they have the same enemies - pests (the main one is a cruciferous flea), pathogens. Therefore, they will be the worst predecessors for radish. The best crops for it will be from other botanical families. These are cucumbers, tomatoes, potatoes, onions, garlic, zucchini, peppers, eggplants, pumpkin, lettuce and others.

Soil fertility is very important for this crop and it brings a particularly good harvest on moderately moist, fine-grained, chernozem soils.

It does not behave badly on medium loamy and sandy loamy soils.

Low yields on heavy, cold, semi-structured lands. At the same time, it responds very badly to the introduction of fertilizers directly under sowing. He especially does not respect organic matter - it cracks and is poorly stored.

Therefore, the site must be fertilized in advance, preferably in the fall, if the land requires it. Better yet, under the previous culture, carefully digging up the garden bed. In the spring, it will take only wood ash under the rake, which will also scare off the cruciferous flea, and low doses of complete mineral fertilizers (nitroammofosk, azofosk) at the rate of 15-20 g / m2.

She is also capricious to the degree of moistening of the earthen coma.

Dislikes dryness and responds to it with ugly root vegetables that taste hard and bitter. Moisturization should be moderate, and this should be constantly monitored.

If you want to eat a delicious and juicy black beauty, and even lay it down for winter storage, then the care of black radish should be appropriate.

Growing radish from seeds is the most popular way

You can also grow it through seedlings, but when transplanting into open ground, you need to be careful, it is important not to damage the root tip and root hairs, otherwise the roots will have the shape of a crown. Radish is an early ripening crop and can give, in the middle zone of the country and in the Moscow region, two harvests. In this case, it is very important to observe the timing of planting black radish. Although the radish is quite capricious, it tolerates the cold calmly.

Seed preparation

Before starting sowing outdoors, it is important to properly prepare the seeds. They need to be calibrated, check their density by soaking in a salt solution. Then, after washing the seeds, immerse them for a day in a solution of potassium permanganate (0.3 g / 1 liter of water). Dry and sow.

Planting radish in open ground

The planting time for black radish of the first sowing period in the open field is determined, in the Moscow region, strictly from the end of April to the first decade of May, just when dill and parsley are sown. If you are late, it is better to wait for the second sowing date. It varies for mid-ripening (Remo, Mayskaya) and late-ripening (Winter round white, Winter round black, Gaivoronskaya) varieties from the first to the second decade of July inclusive. Early ripening varieties (Odessa - 5) will not be too late to sow in the third decade of July.In order not to forget to sow on time, you can define a reference point for yourself, for example, after completing the harvest of garlic.

Planting a radish in July, thus, will never fall out of memory in the whirlwind of other worries.

Sowing in open ground is carried out by seeds in rows or cross-nesting methods (3-4 pieces per hole), to a depth of 2-2.5 cm.

The first time, with the second method of sowing, the seedlings are thinned out, removing the most frail sprout, 10 days after they appear above the soil surface. The second time - at the very beginning of the isolation of root crops. And the third - with their thickness of 5-6 mm. In this case, only one plant should remain in the nest. And when sowing in rows, you need to observe a distance between them of 3-5 cm.In the phase of two true leaves, thin out once, leaving 8-10 cm between the plants.If the distance is increased to 12-14 cm, this will lead to the growth of the root crop and, as a result, to a deterioration in taste.

Further care for black radish is simple - timely weeding, regular loosening of the soil, feeding, fighting cruciferous fleas (ash helps well), mandatory watering (at least once or twice a week). Radish is also very fond of hilling. Two weeks after germination, additional feeding in the form of superphosphate (15-20 g per bucket of water) and ash for 25-30 plants will not be superfluous.

Why is it so important to adhere to strict dates for planting black radish?The reason for this is the shooting. It increases with increasing daylight hours and in dry weather. Therefore, watering is so necessary for the radish. The peak of the increase in the duration of daylight hours, just, passes in the interval when sowing it is not recommended. Since the end of June, it begins to slow down and slowly declines. Sow resistant varieties (Winter red) effectively against shooting.

Further plant growth will show whether the care of the black radish was correct. If large leaves are raised to the top, and not spread out on the ground, then the crops are thickened and this will also lead to flowering.

There are also indirect factors that can aggravate the situation even with the correct planting dates, and also lead to the overflow of the flower arrow. These are low-quality seeds and disturbed agricultural practices: thickened crops, sown winter seeds too early, soil crust, untimely watering or its complete absence.

When to dig up a radish and how to keep it juicyCorrect harvesting is also an important step in the cultivation of a black beauty, especially if it needs to be kept for as long as possible. Therefore, it is important, even before planting, to decide on varieties that differ in ripening terms (summer, autumn, winter). The timing of cleaning directly depends on them.

Summer varieties can be used for food as early as the third decade of May. When the root vegetables reach a diameter of 4 cm, they can be stored in the refrigerator. Where they will be stored for up to 20-30 days at 0 degrees. Autumn varieties are harvested in August and before the first decade of September. Will be perfectly stored in sand boxes in the basement.

Winter varieties must be removed so as to keep them juicy for the whole winter. It is important to wait until the root crops are fully ripe, otherwise it will negatively affect their keeping quality. Radish is afraid of negative temperatures, and even at -1 it will lose its ability to be preserved during storage. Therefore, you should not wait for the first frost. Usually the optimal harvest time is from late October to early November.

When preparing for laying for winter storage, so that the vegetable remains juicy after digging, you need to cut off the long root and tops.

Lay in the cellar in several ways: by putting it in boxes with wet sand, at a temperature of + 2 + 3 and a humidity of 80-85%; in a film bag; earth pits with insulation. Larger specimens are stored better. During the entire storage period, you need to regularly check stocks and remove rotten ones.

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The black radish, which has long been known in Russia, is still loved by most gardeners.It can be planted in open ground without any problems. The vegetable is very useful and does not require much labor. A great option for any garden area. With minimal agrotechnical information on how to grow this vegetable, you can prepare and store decent stocks for the winter.

Black radish - the most useful root vegetable

Radish varieties delight with a variety, but the people first of all appreciate the round black radish - for its medicinal potential and a special unique taste with "bitterness". Its cultivation in open ground with seeds gives positive results.

External and taste characteristics

Black radish is a two-year cold-resistant plant of the cabbage family, of the "seed radish" species. Blooms from mid-May. The root crop forms in the first year of life. Its shape is rounded, the rind is black. The pulp is white inside, dense consistency, spicy and juicy in taste. The fruit is completely in the ground, but easily pulled out. Ripens in 3-4 months, counting from the appearance of the first shoots. Knowing how much the radish grows, you can vary the timing of its planting. It is beneficial to plant for the winter, since after harvesting the vegetable retains its shelf life characteristics for up to six months.

The seeds are brown, rounded. There are 100-160 pieces in 1 g of weight. Planting times and methods are usually indicated on the sale bags and should be followed for Russian seeds. Sprouts at 4 degrees above zero. It will be possible to get seeds from black radish from your summer cottage only in the second year. Proper planting and care allows you to store the crop without loss in winter.

Benefits and restrictions on use

Black-skinned radish, especially winter round, contains a lot of useful substances: mineral salts, sugars, proteins and vegetable fiber, essential oils. The content of potassium, magnesium, sulfur and calcium is especially "off scale".

A huge supply of healing qualities:

• activates appetite;
• raises tone and has a positive effect on the nervous system;
• normalizes the intestines;
• excellently helps with a wet lingering cough;
• gruel is used to treat sciatica and improve hair density;
• in the form of juice is excellent for the treatment of the heart, blood vessels, liver, gallbladder, bronchi and lungs.

Restrictions on use: in high concentration irritates diseased kidneys, liver and digestive system.

Contraindications: ulcer, pregnancy.

Planting rules

Successful sowing is half the success in growing black radish. You can plant a vegetable on a piece of land where representatives of nightshades, pumpkins or legumes "lived" last season. Plant in the vacated places after onions, dill, salad or potatoes. You cannot leave the black radish in the same place for the second year or determine it in the ground after the turnip, cabbage, radish or turnip.

Landing in open ground always takes place in a brightly lit and well-blown area. Those who want to harvest in the early stages should not prepare seeds for planting, but seedlings.

Soil preparation for seed placement

The most suitable soil for black radish is fertile moist loam, well "filled" with humus, non-acidic, loose structure. Trying to bring it closer to these characteristics and you need to work. In the autumn season, the soil is dug to a depth of 30-35 cm, the remnants of weeds and roots are removed, humus or compost is added - at least 3 kg per square meter.

With the onset of heat, it is good to re-dig and feed the ground with rotted manure, scatter 1/2 l of wood ash per square of area, add peat. Add 3 large spoons of superphosphate to 1 each of urea and potassium chloride on the same area.

If you add fresh manure, the growing roots will crack, and pests will pounce on the radish with a vengeance.

Terms and rules for planting

The timing of planting in open ground depends to a large extent on the variety. If winter varieties are sown early, they produce cracked roots, and the tops quickly fade into color. Accepted landing dates:

• If the harvest is planned to be harvested from the garden in the summer-autumn period, the seeds begin to be sown from April 25, but mainly in May.
• When the black radish will be stored at home before the onset of heat, the planting dates are shifted to June 20 - July 10. Planting in July after the twenties may end with the root crops not ripening. Although the gardeners "experimenters" from the southern regions of the country boast that they successfully planted it in August.

Seed preparation

If a grower plans to grow strong, healthy roots from seeds, he should do minimal preparatory work.

• Sort the seeds, leave the larger ones.
• Close to the time of planting, put in wet gauze in the light for 2 days to swell.
• Soak them in a manganese solution for a day - 0.2 g of potassium permanganate per 1 liter of water.

It is preferable to purchase calibrated and slightly germinated seeds for planting black radish.

Landing scheme

Planting is carried out in dug and fertilized soil. In a 1 m wide bed, recesses are made with a distance of 30 cm between them. Usually 4 rows are included. Next, nests are formed, every 15 cm. Then, 3-4 seeds are buried in moist soil by 1.5-2 cm and covered with earth. Very carefully moisten through a strainer, be sure to mulch with peat or rotted sawdust.

The best seeds germinate in 3-5 days, the rest within a week.

Caring for black radish in the beds

Black radish is an unpretentious plant. Caring for it includes thinning, adherence to the irrigation regime, getting rid of weeds, loosening (especially on clay soils) and hilling.

Thinning

The first "procedure" is organized after 3-4 leaves appear on the seedlings, the aisles are loosened, 5 cm are left between the sprouts. Can seedlings be transplanted at the same time? Not desirable. But if a “bald” space has formed somewhere, it is permissible to carefully dig up a sprout with a clod of earth and define it in another place.

The second time it is important to thin out the planting when the size of the small "fruit" reaches half a centimeter or a little more. In the nest, 1 planting is left, before each next there should be at least 15 cm.

When root crops are constrained, they do not ripen in full force. If, at the same time, the vegetable is also planted in the shade, do not be surprised that large tops have grown, the growth of which will contribute to the curvature of the radish. Thickening of plantings is the cause of most diseases and "rampant" pests. The lack of fruit during the period when the radish has bloomed indicates the same problem, aggravated by a lack of moisture.

Don't forget to do thinning! It will save your radish from most growing problems.

Top dressing

A full-fledged cultivation of black radish includes mandatory feeding. They are carried out twice without fail, the rest in case of problems. Dry mineral fertilizers "fill" only in wet soil, liquid - in any.

1. When the first 3-4 leaves appear. 16 g of potassium chloride, 20 g of urea and 60 g of superphosphate are dissolved in a bucket of 10 liters of water. 1 bucket is poured onto 15 m of each row.
2. A month after the first when the roots are ripe. With the same solution.

You can arrange only one liquid feeding - replacing the urea in the solution with 30 g of ammonium nitrate and reducing the weight of superphosphate to 15-20 g. Here, the consumption of the mixture per square meter is 2-3 liters. You can replace it with fertilizers Agricola-4, Darina-6, etc.

The composition of dry fertilizers per square meter: superphosphate 20 g, potassium chloride and urea 5-10 g each

Organic: fermented infusion of grass, compost, humus or manure of a two-year "bed". Some gardeners believe that organic dressing not only degrades the quality of the radish, but also shortens its shelf life.

Major pests and prevention

The main pests of black radish are carrot fly larvae and black midges, scientifically called cruciferous fleas.They "cruelly" eat the leaves and severely damage the skin of the root vegetable, through which destructive diseases penetrate into the pulp.

Fleas especially attack young radish sprouts. To protect them, at the planting site, the ground should always be kept moist and sprinkled with ash, it is possible with a small addition of sand.

Also pests of black radish are: cabbage leaf beetle, mosaic, slugs, rape flower beetle and some others.

People's prevention:

• Soap solution.
• Herbal infusions: celandine, wormwood.
• Ash solution with lime or pepper.
• Powders: tobacco dust, dried tansy, ash. With preliminary moistening of black radish leaves for better adhesion of products.
• A solution of vinegar - 10 liters, a large spoonful of 70% consistency.

Chemical and biological agents:

• Intravir.
• Flea shampoos - a couple of caps in a bucket of water to spray the radish.
• Biologicals and enzymes. In particular "Fitoverm" or "Lipotsid".

Watering rules

Compliance with the watering regime is extremely important for the formation of large, dense, crunchy root crops. Basic Rules:

• While there are no shoots - “renew” the humidity every other day, then - once every 7 days.
• If it rained, or there was watering, loosen the soil around the black radish.
• The slightest overdrying of the soil must not be allowed.

You can increase the yield by installing drip irrigation.

Temperature preferences. Comfortable growing temperature 19 degrees above zero. Young shoots and adult plants are equally capable of surviving with a minimum cooling of up to 5 degrees below zero.

Collection and storage

Active harvesting of late-ripening root crops begins in August, when the varieties planted in June ripen. It is better to dig up specimens that are planned to be laid for winter storage at the end of autumn, before the establishment of constant night frosts. This time usually falls on the end of September. The best varieties of black radish, which can be stored in winter, are called "Gaivoronskaya", "Winter round black" and "Skvirskaya black".

Collection rules:

• Harvesting is not recommended when it is raining or damp in the garden.
• If the wireworm "walks" on the site, dig it out at the same time as the potatoes.
• Be in time before the cold weather, so that the radish does not stiffen.
• After removing the roots, shake them off the ground, remove small roots, cut the tops.
• Dry for several hours in a place protected from the sun.
• Collect for storage in a cellar or refrigerator.

Frozen radish is not preserved in winter. Root crops are taken for storage without any damage.

Storage conditions:

• In wooden boxes with wet sand (2-4 cm high) in the cellar, without raising the temperature above 2 degrees Celsius. When warming, the radish germinates.
• In polyethylene bags with ventilation holes - in the refrigerator. Short storage.

It is acceptable to put in paper bags or containers. The main thing is to match the air temperature, the roots are neatly "resting" in the storage container and covered with sand.

A simple and necessary vegetable, black radish, can be grown on his site by any gardener. There would be a desire to do a little work for the benefit and health for yourself and your loved ones.

Black radish is a traditional vitamin product that has been present in the human diet since ancient times. In cooking, it is appreciated for its tart, spicy-pungent taste, due to the high concentration of essential oils, thanks to which excellent savory snacks and salads are made from the pulp of root vegetables. In folk medicine, radish is used to treat colds, stimulate appetite and speed up metabolic processes. In the season of acute vitamin deficiency, the use of root vegetables in food allows you to replenish the supply of valuable substances and microelements, and the pulp gruel can be used as a therapeutic compress on sore joints or a warming mask that stimulates hair growth.

Growing black radish outdoors is not difficult at all; subject to certain agrotechnical rules, it is juicy and smooth.

Black radish belongs to cold-resistant crops. Seeds germinate at temperatures from -3 ° C to -5 ° C, young plants easily tolerate frosts down to -4 ° C, adults - up to -6 ° C. However, sub-zero temperatures adversely affect planting and can cause early shooting. Sowing radish begins in spring - the specific dates depend on the varietal affiliation and the purpose of growing the crop.

Manufacturers indicate more detailed information about the sowing time on the back of the seed bags; adhere to the recommendations - it is imperative. Violation of the timing leads to cracking of root crops and premature ejection of peduncles.

For sowing radish, wet, well-warmed by the sun areas are chosen. The crop gives the best yields on light soils with a neutral or slightly alkaline reaction and a rich humus layer. In accordance with the rules of crop rotation, black radish should not be planted after cabbage, daikon, carrot, turnip, radish, beet, watercress and horseradish. The best predecessors for it are legumes (peas, peanuts, beans, mine, beans), pumpkin (zucchini, squash, pumpkin), vegetables (onions, tomatoes, cucumbers, eggplants) crops, as well as corn and dill. In joint plantings, the best neighbors for black radish will be tomatoes, potatoes, onions and cucumbers.

The landing area is dug onto a shovel bayonet, filling with mineral fertilizers (for each m2 - 60-65 g of superphosphate, 20 g of urea, 15 g of potassium chloride). In areas with depleted soils, compost or humus is additionally introduced at the rate of 1 bucket / m2. It is not recommended to use manure as fertilizer - from it the radish grows "horny" and tasteless.

The first step in seed preparation is calibration. For this, the seeds are poured with salt water (50 g / 1 l) and thrown onto a sieve with a mesh size of 2 mm. The seeds that remain in the sieve are selected for sowing. The day before the start of work, they are soaked in a solution of potassium permanganate (0.2 g / 1 l).

Before sowing, the soil in the prepared area is carefully loosened, breaking up large lumps. Further sowing is carried out as follows:

Under favorable conditions, seed germination occurs quickly - seedlings appear in 4-6 days. Excessively dense crops are thinned out, leaving in each nest the strongest sprout.

A properly organized irrigation regime is the key to a good harvest of black radish. For the maximum filling of root crops, a large amount of moisture is needed, therefore, in one procedure for each m? plantings should be poured at least 10-12 liters of water. Spring-sown radishes are watered once every 6-7 days, and those intended for storage are watered 3-4 times during the entire growth period. The soil in the garden should always be damp, since sudden changes in humidity - for example, abundant watering after a long drought - can cause root crops to crack. At the same time, from a lack of moisture, the pulp becomes rough and unpleasantly bitter in taste. To prevent the surface of the bed from becoming covered with a shriveled crust, it is recommended to loosen the soil regularly.

The amount of dressings also depends on the timing of the ripening of the crop. During the growing season, radish of early varieties with a short ripening period is fed twice: for the first time - at the stage of unfolding the second leaf and again - a week later, using exclusively nitrogen fertilizers.

Late radish needs a weekly full range of mineral fertilizers. To do this, superphosphate (60 g), urea (20 g) and potassium chloride (15-20 g) are diluted in 10-12 liters of water - the resulting nutrient mixture is enough for 20 m plantings. Additionally, nitrogen fertilization is carried out. All dressings are canceled 20-25 days before harvesting.

Summer radish is harvested from mid-June to early July, as soon as the roots reach a diameter of 3-4 cm.It is not recommended to tighten it with harvesting - early varieties of radish overexposed in the ground become flabby. Root vegetables are sorted, the tops are cut, scattered into perforated containers or bags and placed in the vegetable compartment of the refrigerator. In indoor conditions, summer radish cannot be stored for more than 6-7 days.

Late radish is kept in the garden for as long as possible, however, it is necessary to dig up the roots before the onset of cold weather, since even the weakest frost can destroy the entire crop. Frozen radish is prone to rotting and is unsuitable for storage.

Root crops are dug up in late October-early November, freed from the tops and carefully sorted. Smooth, healthy specimens without traces of mechanical damage and putrefactive spots are taken for storage. The radish is placed in wooden boxes with wet sand (without it) and lowered into a cellar or basement, where it can be successfully stored until spring.

Radish. Growing. Care

Preparing for planting a radish

Seeds are sorted and calibrated before planting. The day before sowing, they are soaked for 2 hours in a solution of boric acid, or cobalt sulfate, or ammonium molybdate. The volumetric ratio of seeds and solution should be 1: 3. After that, the seeds are dried.

For seed dressing, ridomil is used (0.4 g per 100 g of seeds).

Planting radish in open ground

Radishes should not be planted where other cruciferous plants have grown. Early varieties of radish are sown in late April or early May. A radish for storage for the winter is sown at the end of June. On a bed 1 1 m wide, furrows are made at a distance of 28-30 cm from each other.

Seeds in a moistened furrow are laid out in nests of 3-4 pieces. with a distance of 14-15 cm, the depth of planting seeds in the soil is 1.5-2 cm.When planting summer varieties, seed consumption is 1.5-2 g per 1 m2, when planting winter varieties - 0.5-0.6 g per 1 m2. The beds are sprinkled with mulch (compost, humus).

Sowing radish can be repeated until early August.

Radish care

Radish care consists in watering, loosening, weeding, feeding. After emergence, the seedlings are thinned out and one sprout is left in each nest. While the plants are small, the beds are loosened.

Water the plants regularly (once every 7 days). Top dressing is carried out with full and nitrogen fertilizers (15-20 g of nitrophoska dissolved in 10 liters of water), which alternate. 3 weeks before harvesting, the radish is stopped to water and feed so that the roots are well stored.

Growing radish outdoors is pretty easy for experienced gardeners. But for beginners it will be useful to learn a thing or two about growing radish. In general, the radish can be recommended for growing to those who are just mastering the skills of gardening. For germination of its seeds, a temperature of 2-3 degrees is enough.

Radish seedlings can tolerate frosts down to -3 degrees. The most comfortable temperature for the growth and development of radishes is 19 degrees. But at the same time, prolonged exposure to low temperatures is undesirable, as this can cause shooting.

The radish is not demanding on the ground. Sandy loam soil and loam are most suitable for it. For radish, it is necessary to maintain uniform moisture in the soil from the moment of germination, and during the first half of growth. Summer varieties of radish are sown in early spring.

Winter varieties need to be sown in June, because if sown early, the plant will go into the trunk and there will be no good root crop. Radish is usually planted along the edges of the beds or nests in the beds along with cucumbers. If an area is allocated for the radish, then the sowing is done in two lines at a distance of 30 cm. line from line. Distance in a row between plants 15-20cm.

You need 6-8 grams of seeds for a tape of 10 square meters. Care for the radish is the same as for all root crops, for example, radishes or turnips: weeding, loosening, slightly spilling root crops, thinning out where it has grown very densely. With a lack of moisture - watering.

The earthen flea is dangerous for the radish. The radish contains mineral salts, vitamins that improve digestion. The unique taste of the radish is given by the essential oils contained in it, due to which it is actively used for medicinal purposes. The radish, like its other close relatives - radishes, turnips, rutabagas, cabbage, are susceptible to various diseases, as well as other relatives have pests that she is afraid and from which she needs to be protected, but you can find out about this by reading the articles "Pests of plants from the cruciferous family" and "Diseases of plants of the cruciferous family." a root vegetable, which you can happily eat in salads with sour cream and vegetable oil, and just to cure a cough radish will also help. So grow your radish - you won't regret it. You might be interested in the article on growing peas.

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Latin name - Raphanus sativus L. Family - Cabbage. The predecessors are tomato, pepper, potatoes, eggplant, pumpkin, squash, beans, onions, zucchini, cucumbers, dill, lettuce.

The lighting is light-requiring. The soil is loamy neutral soil. Planting by seeds. The radish is a biennial plant. In the first year of life, it forms a root crop.

The color of the root crop can be very different - white, black, purple, yellow. You can see the root vegetables in the radish photo. With all this variety, its flesh is always white.

The taste and healing qualities of the vegetable are appreciated. A fairly large number of dishes and medicines are prepared from it. Growing a radish is easy enough.

Radish seeds

Radish seeds are round, brown in color. They are very similar to radish seeds. 1g contains 100 - 160 pieces. The plant is cold-resistant.

Seeds germinate at 4 ° C.

Planting a radish

The soil should be fertile, loamy, moist and rich in humus. Considering that the roots are large, before planting, the earth should be dug to a depth of at least 30 - 35 cm. Superphosphate, urea, and potassium chloride are added under the shovel.

With the onset of autumn, humus is introduced. In the case when flowering plants - cabbage, radishes, rutabagas and turnips - have previously grown on the selected soil, then it is better not to grow on it. If earlier other crops grew there, then you can plant a radish.

Landing is carried out in two terms. If it is desirable to get a crop in the summer-autumn period, then you need to plant seeds starting from the 25th of April. If winter storage of the crop is planned, then the seeds are planted from June 20 to July 10. Planting dates also depend on the variety.

With early planting, root crops crack in winter varieties. And the ejection of inflorescences in that case begins in the first year. Furrows are made in the prepared bed.

They are made at a distance of 30 cm. Their depth is 1.5 - 2 cm. The seeds are placed in the furrows in 3 pieces in nests. In this case, the distance between these nests should be at least 15 cm. The soil should be sufficiently moist.

If the moisture is insufficient during planting, then after planting it is imperative to water it. After 5 or 6 days, the strongest sprout is left in each nest. Both young shoots and mature plants can withstand light frosts.

Radish care: fertilizing, watering, weeding

The plant is quite unpretentious. Radish care consists of watering, weeding, loosening and hilling. Water the plantings abundantly once a week. It is also necessary to thin out the plants.

The first time this is done when the first leaves appear. Then after 20 - 30 days. The distance that should be between plants depends on the variety. For early varieties - a distance of 6 - 8 cm, and for late varieties - a distance of 12 - 15 cm.

You can feed the vegetable only with mineral fertilizers. Organic fertilizers have a bad effect on the quality of root crops and their keeping quality. Fertilizers can be applied both dry and liquid.

However, dry fertilizer can only be applied when the soil is wet. Usually two dressings are carried out. The first time when the first leaves appear.

The second is 20-30 days after the first, when the root crop begins to ripen. 60 g of superphosphate, 20 g of urea and 16 g of potassium chloride are dissolved in one bucket. For 15 - 20 meters of one row, one bucket of solution is consumed.

When feeding in dry form, 20-15 g of superphosphate, 5-10 g of potassium chloride and 5-10 g of urea are added per 1 m2. Planting should be protected from cabbage leaf beetle, spring cabbage fly, wavy flea, cabbage moth, cabbage aphid, cabbage keel, cabbage mosaic, slugs, rape flower beetle, black leg symptoms.

How to store a radish

Harvest vegetables before the first frost. Roots harvested late last better than those harvested in early fall. They are stored in the same way as carrots.

There are several guidelines for storing your radish. First of all, if long-term storage of the crop is planned, then the roots should not be damaged by diseases and pests. There should be no mechanical damage.

Do not harvest in wet weather or rain. The soil from the vegetables must be shaken off and small roots removed. Cut off the tops immediately after harvesting. The crop can lie all winter in wooden boxes with damp sand.

The suitable temperature for storing the radish is + 1- 2 degrees. You can put the root vegetables in the refrigerator. To do this, they are folded into plastic bags with holes.

But the shelf life in this case will not be too long. Boxes or containers of sand allow you to store your crops for much longer. The best varieties for storage: Winter round white, Winter round black and Artashat local.

Growing black radish

She prefers a temperate climate, fertilized with humus and moist soil. The plant blooms in mid-spring, and the fruits ripen from the end of May to the end of June. Growing black radish does not require special conditions.

The main thing is fertile, slightly acidic or neutral soil. It should not be waterlogged. Winter varieties are sown in early summer.

Summer - in May. In general, the sowing of seeds is carried out, as well as for other types of radish. She also doesn't like organic fertilizers.

Her harvest is stored either in boxes with wet sand or in paper bags.

Radish: photo gallery (click to enlarge):

I am glad to welcome you to my site! In this article, the story will go about how to grow a radish on a personal plot. I already wrote about planting radish (see article), and today I want to share my personal experience and talk about some of the features of growing this tasty and healthy root vegetable.

Which soil is better

Radish works best on medium-heavy soils, rich in humus and nutrients. IMPORTANT: Do not grow radishes in areas that have recently been fertilized with fresh manure. By the way, in addition to radish, this also applies to all other roots and tubers (celery, carrots, horseradish, radish, beetroot, etc.). All of these crops can develop normally only the next year after application.

And according to the manure introduced in the fall, cucumbers, all varieties of cabbage, lettuce, leaf celery will grow well. Deep digging of the soil is very important when preparing a site for radish, proper aeration, but the soil should not be dry. But peat before planting radish into the soil you can. This will improve its structure.

The most delicious and tender radish roots are obtained in sunny open areas. When growing radishes in shaded areas, the tops are too large, and the roots grow irregularly shaped.

When to plant radish

The sowing time of a radish is determined by the characteristics of one or another of its varieties.The earliest date is March. Early small-fruited varieties must be sown at the same time as the radish, that is, in March. Summer radish varieties are much larger.

They are sown in April - May. Autumn radish varieties can be sown in early July. For the best winter varieties that are used for storage, a rather considerable ripening period is required, so these varieties should not be sown later than June 20, otherwise the roots will not have time to fully develop. As one of the best early varieties, I recommend sowing the White Round radish, also called the Dresden Bunch. From sowing to harvesting, this variety requires only 35 - 45 days. Of the varieties for the summer, I grow the Bobenheim variety.

The growing season is 60 - 70 days. For autumn I recommend the Munich beer variety. The growing season is 80 to 105 days. In principle, under the right conditions, this variety can be stored well.

The radish of this variety is large, with tender pulp. But still, for winter storage, I recommend sowing the Round Black variety. The growing season is quite long and is 15 - 17 weeks before full ripening, so try to correctly calculate the sowing time, taking into account the weather conditions in your region.

Seed sowing distances.

When sowing shallow early white radish, you can use a marker board. To do this, you need to take a board 3 centimeters thick and 30 x 40 centimeters in size.

Next, attach vertical pins with a diameter of 1 and a length of 2 centimeters to it, pointed at the bottom, according to a 6 x 6 centimeters pattern. I make a marking board using a screwdriver and self-tapping screws of the required length.

On the top side, I fix a comfortable, durable handle, which helps a lot in the work. Before sowing, the bed must be well leveled so that, during the process of pressing with the board, the seed nests are the same depth. All radish varieties of a later ripening period are sown in rows on the beds. The distance between the rows should be at least 30 centimeters.

In a row, 2 - 3 seeds are sown every 15 centimeters. When shoots appear, thinning should be done, leaving one of the strongest plants in each nest. Seeds should be planted no deeper than 2 centimeters.

Care and feeding.

Of course, in order to grow a radish and get a high-quality harvest, you need to follow certain rules for caring for plants. After each rain and watering, the beds must be loosened, since the roots of the radish are very sensitive to a lack of oxygen. The soil must not completely dry out, otherwise the radish will very quickly begin to form peduncles, which we do not need at all.

The early radish is fertilized similarly to the radish. Due to the fact that the maturation period of early radish is not long, it is usually enough to give only nitrogen fertilizers.

You can use calcium-ammonium or sodium nitrate, in a concentration of 0.2%. The first time you should feed the early radish when the cotyledon leaves are fully developed, and the second time - a week after the first. All other varieties with a longer growing season need to be fed every week with a 0.2% solution of a complete fertilizer rich in nitrogen. Since, nevertheless, the amount of nitrogen in a complete fertilizer is limited, it is advisable to alternate fertilizing with full and nitrogen fertilizers.

For one week we give pure fertilizer, only nitrogen, for another week - full fertilization. All radish feeding should be stopped 3 weeks before harvest.

Harvesting and storage of radish:

The timing of harvesting radish is especially important for varieties intended for winter storage. It is necessary to harvest winter radish as late as possible, as long as there is no threat of severe autumn frosts.

If you remove the radish too early, it will be poorly stored, and in fact it should be enough not only for consumption in winter, but also for consumption in early spring. Any damage to root crops during harvesting leads to decay during storage.therefore, select only undamaged specimens for storage. Harvest the radish in dry weather in order to lay clean root crops for storage. Observing all the above rules, you can grow a beautiful and high-quality radish for a feast for the eyes. Failure to comply with certain storage rules can overshadow all the wonderful impressions. The room for storing the radish should not be too warm, but, at the same time, it should not freeze.

The most optimal temperature is +1 (+2) degrees. It is best to store root crops in bulk, in low piles (up to 30 centimeters), sprinkled with sand. Also, the radish is stored well in boxes, without sprinkling with sand, stacked on top of each other, but still it remains better in the sand.

I wish you to grow a wonderful radish! See you, dear friends!

Turnip roots are tasty, tender, juicy. Turnip varieties with yellow flesh contain a significant amount of carotene. Table varieties of turnips contain about 9% sugar, more than 1% vegetable protein, almost 2% starch. Vitamin C in turnips is almost twice as much as in oranges.

Because of its taste and nutritional qualities, the cultivation of turnips is spread throughout the world. It is undemanding to growing conditions, ripens quickly, is well stored. Growing turnip.

Planting and leaving. For growing turnips, the garden bed is prepared in the same way as for beets. To have turnip roots in summer, dry seeds are sown from May 1 to May 5, and for winter storage from July 1 to July 10. nests of 2-3 seeds each, with a nest distance of 10-12 cm.

A few days after germination, excess plants are removed, leaving one of the best plants in the nest. Good turnip roots can only be obtained with sufficient watering and loosening of the soil. Root crops especially need watering at the beginning of growth, when 8 to 10 liters of water are consumed per 1 m2, during the formation of root crops, the irrigation rate increases to 10-12 liters per 1 m2.

The number of waterings is 1-2 times a week, depending on the weather. Watering by sprinkling from a watering can. Turnip seedlings, at early and late sowing dates, are harmed by cruciferous (earthen) fleas, therefore, before loosening, they are pollinated with deterrent substances (mustard, pepper, ash, tobacco dust). cm, they are selectively removed.

For winter storage, turnips are harvested before the onset of frost. At root crops, the tops are cut flush with the head, without damaging the pulp, and placed in boxes or paper bags, sprinkled with a thin layer of sand (2-4 cm). Storage temperature 2-3 ° C. Petrovskaya-1.

Medium early, productive, light. The shape of the root crop is round-flat. The pulp is yellow, firm, juicy.

In terms of taste, it is one of the best varieties. Ripens in 75-80 days. May yellow, green-headed. Milanese white, red-headed. Early ripening, ripen 60-70 days after disembarkation, very tender, tasty, juicy.

These varieties are grown for summer and autumn consumption. White night. Very sweet, snow-white root vegetable, juicy, does not shoot. Early ripe. Namangan.

The variety is mid-season, for summer sowing (July). Root crops are round-flat, white in color, the head is green, the flesh is very dense, juicy, spicy and sweet.

Radish of three groups of varieties is grown: European, Chinese (lobo) and Japanese (daikon). All European varieties of radish are spicy. (discussion of the peculiarities of growing vegetable crops) Radish is a cold-resistant early maturing plant.

Radish seedlings tolerate short-term frosts down to -3 ° С. - a plant of a long day, i.e. for flowering and fruiting, daylight hours are required, lasting more than 13 hours. With a short daylight hours (less than 12 hours), an arrow with seeds is not formed.

Abundant watering after prolonged droughts leads to cracking of root crops.

It is better to apply organic fertilizers under the predecessor. Radish seeds can be preliminarily.

Fertilizers are also effective with organic fertilizers. They are carried out after watering, after which the soil is loosened.

At an optimal temperature of + 18-20 ° C, seedlings will appear in 3 days. The radish for summer consumption is sown in early May. For autumn and winter - at the end of June and beginning of July.

The radish is grown in rows, sowing seeds in a strip, with a row spacing of 45 cm, after thinning between the plants, 5 cm are left for summer consumption, and 8 cm for winter storage.

For spring sowing, radish seeds are sealed to a depth of 1 cm, and for summer sowing - by 2.5 cm. Soil is needed.

Many plants in joint plantings are able to take care of their neighbors and theirs themselves.

Care of the radish consists in regular weeding, loosening of row spacings (every 2 weeks), thinning of seedlings, watering.

Radish root crops for winter storage are harvested until stable frost.

HARVEST Growing Radish Lobo Onion

Buy seeds of vegetables and flowers by mail wholesale and retail with delivery in Ukraine name - Raphanus sativus L. Family - Cabbage. Predecessors - tomato, pepper, potatoes, eggplant, pumpkin, squash, beans, onions, zucchini, cucumbers, dill, lettuce.

Lighting - light-loving. Soil - loamy neutral soil. Planting - seeds. Radish is a biennial plant. In the first year of life, it forms a root crop. The color of the root crop can be very different - white, black, purple, yellow.

You can see the root vegetables in the radish photo. With all this variety, its flesh is always white. The taste and healing qualities of the vegetable are appreciated. A fairly large number of dishes and medicines are prepared from it.

Growing a radish is easy enough.

Radish seeds

Radish seeds are round, brown in color. They are very similar to radish seeds. 1g contains 100 - 160 pieces.

The plant is cold-resistant. Seeds germinate at 4 ° C.

Planting a radish

The soil should be fertile, loamy, moist and rich in humus. Considering that the roots are large, before planting, the earth should be dug to a depth of at least 30 - 35 cm. Superphosphate, urea, and potassium chloride are added under the shovel.

With the onset of autumn, humus is introduced. In the case when flowering plants - cabbage, radishes, rutabagas and turnips - have previously grown on the selected soil, then it is better not to grow on it.

If previously other crops grew there, then you can plant a radish. Planting is carried out in two terms. If it is desirable to get a crop in the summer-autumn period, then you need to plant seeds starting from the 25th of April.

If winter storage of the crop is planned, then the seeds are planted from June 20 to July 10. Planting dates also depend on the variety. With early planting, root crops crack in winter varieties.

And the ejection of inflorescences in that case begins in the first year. In the prepared bed, furrows are made. They are made at a distance of 30 cm. Their depth is 1.5 - 2 cm. The seeds are placed in the furrows in 3 pieces in nests.

In this case, the distance between these nests should be at least 15 cm. The soil should be sufficiently moist. If the moisture is insufficient during planting, then after planting it is imperative to water it.

After 5 or 6 days, the strongest sprout is left in each nest. Both young shoots and mature plants can withstand light frosts. Up to - 5 ° C.

Radish care: fertilizing, watering, weeding

The plant is quite unpretentious. Radish care consists in watering, weeding, loosening and hilling. Water the plantings abundantly once a week. It is also necessary to thin out the plants. The first time this is done when the first leaves appear.

Then after 20 - 30 days. The distance that should be between plants depends on the variety. For early varieties - a distance of 6 - 8 cm, and for late varieties - a distance of 12 - 15 cm. You can feed the vegetable only with mineral fertilizers.

Organic fertilizers have a bad effect on the quality of root crops and their keeping quality. Fertilizers can be applied both dry and liquid. However, dry fertilizer can only be applied when the soil is wet; usually two dressings are applied.

The first time when the first leaves appear. The second is 20 - 30 days after the first, when the root crop begins to ripen. 60 g of superphosphate, 20 g of urea and 16 g of potassium chloride are dissolved in one bucket.

For 15 - 20 meters of one row, one bucket of solution is consumed. When feeding in dry form, 20-15 g of superphosphate, 5-10 g of potassium chloride and 5-10 g of urea are added per 1 m2. Plantings should be protected from cabbage leaf beetle, spring cabbage fly, wavy flea, cabbage moth, cabbage aphid, cabbage keel, mosaics cabbage, slugs, rape flower beetle, black leg symptoms.

How to store a radish

Harvest vegetables before the first frost. Roots harvested late last better than those harvested in early autumn. They are stored in the same way as carrots.

There are several recommendations on how to store the radish. First of all, if you plan to store the crop for a long time, then the roots should not be damaged by diseases and pests. There should be no mechanical damage.

Do not harvest in wet weather or rain. The soil from the vegetables must be shaken off and small roots removed. The tops should be trimmed immediately after harvesting. The crop can lie all winter in wooden boxes with damp sand.

The suitable temperature for storing the radish is + 1- 2 degrees. You can put the root vegetables in the refrigerator. To do this, they are folded into plastic bags with holes. But the shelf life in this case will not be too long.

Boxes or containers of sand allow you to store your crops for much longer. The best varieties for storage: Winter round white, Winter round black and Artashat local.

Growing black radish

She prefers a temperate climate, fertilized with humus and moist soil. The plant blooms in mid-spring, and the fruits ripen from the end of May to the end of June. Growing black radish does not require special conditions.

The main thing is fertile, slightly acidic or neutral soil. It should not be waterlogged. Winter varieties are sown in early summer.

Summer - in May. In general, sowing seeds is carried out, as well as for other types of radish. She also doesn't like organic fertilizers. Her harvest is stored either in boxes with wet sand or in paper bags.

Probably, many gardeners-gardeners, having glanced at the headline, will not want to read further: they have found, they say, what to write about, you will think - a radish! Yes, yes, this is how we are arranged: you always want to plant something “that sort of”, outlandish. Natural desire!

Another bad thing: for the sake of advertising (after all, we sometimes have no idea what to do with grown curiosities), we stop planting crops that have faithfully served people for centuries. Tell me, did everyone set aside a place on the site (at least a very small piece!) For the radish?

Ordinary, black? Or have they forgotten about her again? And we remember about her only when someone close (of course, God forbid!) Caught a cold. We swear to ourselves and run to the market for her, for the radish.

And immediately we remember the proverb: "Radish with honey is good - at once all the cold is gone." It is hard to believe in this, but even the ancient Roman doctor Pedanius Dioscorides (1st century) used radish juice with honey for his patients for colds (with a debilitating cough, adults 1-2 tablespoons 3 times a day, and children 1-2 teaspoons ).

How much time has passed, but this is how we treat colds! Radish is not in vain called "the orderly of the human body", and also - "a penitential vegetable." But on this topic we will talk in more detail closer to winter, and now our task is to grow her, this simpleton.

Where and when to plant? How to care? According to the lunar calendar, the best time to plant a winter radish is this year on June 22-26. For some reason, many believe that radish is an undemanding culture: it will grow itself, if only the seeds would fall into the ground. Far from it!

Any plant we planted loves care, including radish. She will pay back with a good harvest of high-quality root crops, if we are able to create the appropriate conditions for her.Radish loves non-acidic, loamy or sandy loam soils with a deep arable layer.

But the heavy, cold ones are not to her liking. On unsuitable soils (experts advise), 3-4 kg of compost should be added per 1 sq. m. Fresh manure must not be introduced! The radish will grow hollow. You need to find a well-lit place.

She absolutely hates shading. Therefore, it is so important not to delay the thinning of the seedlings (as soon as 3-4 real leaves have appeared, the radish must be thinned out, leaving 10-15 cm between the plants during the first thinning, with the second, final - 15-20 cm).

What does a radish have for lunch? But before we feed the radish, let's not forget that it loves to drink. And to get healthy, juicy roots, you need to water it regularly.

Even short-term drying reduces the yield and its quality. Well, what's on the radish menu? The radish is fed only with mineral fertilizers.

It is better if these are fertilizers designed specifically for root crops: these are Darina-6, Agricola-4 and others, there are many of them now. Usually, two dressings are carried out: the first, when the radish has 3-4 true leaves, the second after 20-30 days, when the roots begin to form.

Experienced gardeners advise Sometimes it happens: they looked after (it seems!) Well, but the radish went into color, the root crops became some kind of wooden during storage. What's the matter? Where is the miscalculation? 1. Situation one: the radish is in color, but the root crop does not.

The seeds may be “to blame” if they are old. Or you planted early. We repeat: winter radish is planted in late June - early July.

And daikons even later. Radish can turn into color with irregular watering, with untimely thinning. 2. Well, why are some kind of branched, small, “wooden” roots?

Again, look for the reason in the thickening of crops, lack of moisture and nutrition. Or maybe you worked the land shallowly before sowing and did not loosen well? 3. And it also happens: during harvesting, the roots were juicy, and during storage, the pulp became like wood.

The surest reason is that you are late with the harvest, and the roots are frozen over. For winter consumption, the radish is harvested in one step, before the onset of frost, the frozen roots do not lie for a long time. For a bookmark for future use, it is better to select a radish no more than 4-6 cm in diameter.

When harvesting, the soil is shaken off from the root crops (never knock the radish on the radish!), The small roots are removed, and then the tops are cut with a knife to the level with the head of the root crop. And it is even better to cut off the tops by twisting, and not cut off.

So grow your radish and be healthy! Growing on the site of black winter radish All winter varieties are biennial. It is the winter radish that is the most healing, and therefore popular. Winter varieties do not differ in a wide variety.

Root crops come with black and white peel, weighing from 200 to 600 g. Winter radish in the middle lane is sown in late June - early July. This is the best time to grow root crops for autumn and winter consumption. The last time for sowing early ripening varieties is the beginning of August.

It is better to check the exact sowing date according to the lunar calendar (sow on the waning moon).

Correct crop rotation

It is good to grow radish after potatoes, carrots, beets, legumes, pumpkins, zucchini, onions, tomatoes. With a limited area for a garden, you can use the combined cultivation of two or more crops without prejudice to their development. With compacted crops, the radish is compatible with tomatoes, onions, and potatoes.

Preparing the soil for planting winter radish

A lighted place is chosen for the radish (even light shading has a negative effect on the harvest). The soil is prepared in autumn: plant residues are removed, lime is added (200 g per 1 sq. M), dug up without breaking clods. In the spring, peat and compost are laid out (6 kg per 1 sq. M).

Or mineral fertilizers: 2 tbsp. l nitrophoska or 2 tbsp. ash. Spring digging should be especially careful.

We plant in grooves

After manual sampling of weeds (wheatgrass, sow thistle, milkweed, weeds), the surface of the bed is leveled and grooves are marked at a distance of 30-40 cm, between plants 10-15 cm. The grooves are drawn from west to east with a depth of 3-4 cm. Seeding depth 2- 2.5 cm.

The grooves are mulched with peat, humus. We plant sprouted seeds with tweezers.

Watering and feeding

Winter radish needs 2-3 additional fertilizing during the growing season. The first feeding in the phase of 3-4 true leaves: solution of mullein 1:10 or bird droppings 1:15. It is good to use a weak solution of mineral fertilizers with a minimum amount of nitrogen so that the tops do not grow.

10 g of urea, 20 g of potassium sulfate, 20 g of superphosphate (1: 2: 2). In the 2nd and 3rd feeding, only potassium and phosphorus need to be introduced. With a slight swing of the still not fully formed root crop, part of the upper lateral roots breaks off, and nutrition comes only through the central taproot. Root crops are leveled, medium-sized with dense juicy pulp.

Cleaning and storage

Leaves of plucked root crops are cut off, leaving the stalks of 2 cm. After airing, they are placed in boxes, layering with sand, dusting with ash or chalk. You can dip the radish in a clay mash and dry it.

A thin crust forms. In the cellar the temperature is + 2 ... + 3 ° С

Diseases and pests

During storage, winter radish is trapped by vascular bacteriosis. Root crops are affected in warm, humid weather. Does not appear when storing.

But after the expiration of the period, dark brown necrotic areas appear inside the root crops. The infection is seed-borne. Protection measures: heat treatment of seeds before sowing (45 ° C for 30 minutes) and correct crop rotation.

Winter radish varieties

• Mid-season: Winter round black. Winter round white, Skvirskaya white, Skvirskaya black, Levina Late-ripening varieties: Graivoronskaya, Chernavka, Margelanskaya

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