Hydrangea garden planting and care in the open in the northwest

In our climate, two types of hydrangeas have shown themselves perfectly: tree-like (H. arborescens) with flowering white caps and paniculate (H. paniculata) - with pyramidal inflorescences drooping and turning pink by autumn.

Hydrangeatree-like (H. arborescens) 

Hydrangeapaniculate (H. paniculata)

Both of them grow in my garden and are invariably the object of admiration of the guests. Hydrangeas love water, slightly acidic soil, grow well in the sun and in partial shade. Decorativeness will depend on the fertility of the soil: the size and number of inflorescences, the height and spreading of the bush. Flowering occurs on the shoots of the current year, even if the bush freezes over during severe frosts, it will still grow and flourish in the same year. Pruning of hydrangeas is always done in the spring, leaving dry inflorescences on the bushes in winter, they cover the leaf buds at the ends of the shoots. In the spring, once every 5-7 years, shrubs can be divided, having received quite a lot of planting material. Hydrangeas are also excellent cuttings and propagate by layering. Mature shrubs build up a fairly heavy mass, especially during the flowering period.At this point, you need to prepare in advance by building a circular support from a thin bar on racks, or buy ready-made metal "one-legged" supports. A garter to a stake is very ineffective: the bush ceases to be spreadingly symmetrical, falls on one side, and flowering caps fall into a heap.

Hydrangeas are good both in solitary plantings and in mixborders with shrub roses, gray spirea, perennials. For wet areas, this is perhaps one of the best shrubs along with black elderberry and turf.
There are other types of hydrangeas, from bush it isLarge-leaved hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla), but it is very unstable in our region, blooms on last year's shoots and does not bloom at all in case of an unsuccessful wintering. True, there are loyal fans of this magnificent shrub and work wonders. Moreover, modern varieties, as the suppliers assure, bloom on young shoots.
Varieties of tree hydrangea:

"Annabelle" with large, up to 20 cm in diameter, white globular inflorescences. Young bushes should be tied up, since under the weight of the inflorescences the shoots are inclined to the very ground. Leaves retain their green color in autumn.

"Sterilis" with exceptionally abundant and long flowering. Inflorescences are dense, hemispherical, branches bend with their weight. They consist of sterile flowers that turn from whitish green to pure white and do not turn pink. Blooms from July to October.

"Invincibelle Spirit" - 2010 Young inflorescences consist of small, dirty red buds and do not seem to bode well. However, when the buds open, it turns out that the inside of the petals are painted in a bright pink color, which eventually turns into an amazing pale pink with gleams of light green. The inflorescence becomes large, dense, attracting everyone's attention.

Hayes Starburst a new hardy variety from the famous hydrangea "Annabelle". Amazing hydrangea with double-colored double flowers, collected in inflorescences up to 25 cm in diameter. It blooms much longer than "Annabell", due to the appearance of new petals in the center of the flower. Flowering time July-October. The height of the bush is 1.5 m, the width is 1.5 m.
Varieties of panicle hydrangea:

"Grandiflora" - the most beautiful and winter-hardy variety with cream cone-shaped inflorescences. Flowering lasts at least two months, and during the entire period the flowers change their color several times, acquiring red and brown shades in the fall.

"Pink Diamond" in summer it is decorated with large pinkish inflorescences, which acquire a bright pink color in autumn, retaining their color even in winter.

"Kyushu" - a spectacular shrub with long, loose inflorescences. The flowers are pure white with a pleasant scent.

"Sundae Fraise"(height 100-120 cm). This hydrangea is exceptional for its size, perfect for small gardens. Height 1-1.3 m., Width 1-1.2 m. Its red-burgundy tough shoots perfectly hold numerous brushes of flowers of various colors (starting from white at the beginning of flowering and gradually changing color to pink-lilac).

"Vanille Fraise" (height 150-170 cm). The inflorescences are huge, the flowers are first creamy white, then turn pink, by the end of flowering they become dark red, the shades depend on the place, weather conditions and soil, blooms in July-September, the bush is upright, 150 cm high and wide, requires a sunny or semi-shady place and wet soil.

"Limelight" - differs in dense inflorescences of sterile flowers with a distinct greenish tint, turning pink by autumn. Shrub more than 1-1.5 meters high with a rounded crown. In severe winters, young plants freeze to the level of snow cover; with age, winter hardiness increases. Prefers moist, fertile, light, acidic soils. Does not tolerate lime in the soil. Landing in sunny, wind-protected places. Winter shelter for young plants.

"Great Star" - height 2 m, width can reach 3 m, fast growing. The flowers consist of two types: large ones with elongated "propeller-shaped" petals, about 5 cm in diameter, and small, fertile, white, odorless flowers. Blooms from July to September.

Early Sensation- a special type of hydrangea that blooms even in cold regions. Large racemose inflorescences consist of pink flowers. Prefers slightly acidic and neutral substrates. For abundant flowering, it is necessary to shorten the shoots by 2/3 annually.

"Magiсal Flame" - an amazingly beautiful variety! The inflorescences are conical, 12x10 cm in size, at first creamy white, then burgundy-red and at the end of flowering purple-pink. Sterile flowers 3.2 cm in diameter. The bushes are compact, 90-120 cm high, 130 cm wide. Blossoms in July-August.

Growing hydrangeas in the northwest

We describe planting and caring for hydrangeas in spring and autumn (tree, large-leaved (garden), paniculate and petiolate). Consider the place, soil, planting rules and step-by-step instructions, as well as watering, feeding, pruning and preparing for winter (Moscow region, North-West, Ural, Siberia and southern regions).

Planting hydrangeas in open ground: location, soil, distance and depth

The plant is thermophilic, fast-growing and needs fertile soil and sufficient moisture.

We describe planting in open ground for any type of hydrangea: oak-leaved, large-leaved (garden), paniculate, serrate, treelike, petiolate, Sargent and others.

Pick-up location

Hydrangea (all types) is a light-loving plant, it grows well in a sunny and open place, but bright sun and strong winds should be avoided. Therefore, at the peak of the heat, light shading is necessary, she very much loves diffused light.

At the same time, the shrub is able to grow well in light partial shade, in this case it later blooms with fewer flowers. It is very important to have sun rays in the morning, in the morning. Therefore, the east side is better suited than the west side.

Soil and acidity

Hydrangea grows well on fertile, humus-rich clay soils. It develops worse on red earth, and sandy soils are contraindicated.

The optimum acidity level is pH 5.2-6.0 (slightly acidic soil). The maximum brightness of inflorescences is observed precisely on acidic soil, and on neutral soil, slow development and pale color.

Alkaline soil leads to chlorosis (yellowing of the leaves). When the bush grows on alkaline soil, there is often a lack of iron and magnesium, which is manifested by light and pale color of the leaves.

Therefore, acidify the soil or treat the bush with iron chelate. In past centuries, gardeners buried iron items (nails, a bank, a horseshoe).

When planting, prepare a special balanced soil mixture with fertilizers.

Soil mix

Compound: humus, sod land, leafy soil and peat - equal parts or humus, garden soil (black soil), peat and sand - 2: 2: 1: 1. And also nutrients: 20-25 grams (tablespoon + teaspoon) of carbamide (urea), 24-29 grams of potassium sulfate (two tablespoons) and 60-70 grams of superphosphate (150-250 grams of bone meal).

If spruce and pine trees grow nearby, then under them you can dig up light, loose and slightly acidic soil. Some gardeners successfully grow flowers in such soil, even without fertilizing when planting.

A complete ban is lime, chalk and wood ash.

Landing distance

Large-leaved - 120-160 cm, and paniculate 140-240 cm between bushes, and from the nearest large shrubs and trees - 230-300 cm. If you want to plant hydrangea in a row (hedge, "mixborder"), you can dig a trench wide 90-110 cm.

If you want to achieve an earlier flowering, then when planting, dig holes closer to each other (70-80 cm), and after 2-3 years, thin out the bushes if necessary.

Landing pit

Depth - 36-45, width - 51-65 cm.The roots grow mainly in breadth, extending much further than the crown.

Planting depth

The root collar should be at the level of the soil, a maximum of 2-3 cm lower, otherwise the flower will develop poorly.

Step-by-step instructions for planting hydrangeas

1. Dig a hole to the correct size 15-30 days before planting.
2. Prepare potting mix and fill in the planting hole.
3. Dig a hole and place the seedling at the desired depth on the cone of the potting soil and spread the roots. Refill the hole gradually and compact the soil.
4. Water the bush with 8-12 liters of water and sprinkle with bark, sawdust or peat - 6-8 cm thick and 16-20 cm in diameter.
5. Protect the flower from direct sunlight during the day and strong winds.

When is the best time to plant hydrangea? Spring or Autumn?

Best planting time: spring - early May and autumn - September. At the same time, the most favorable period to plant hydrangea in cold climates is only spring, and in more southern regions it can be planted in spring and autumn.

Hydrangea care after planting

Preparing for flowering

For the first two years, cut the inflorescences at the bud stage (“pea”). And then the plant will direct all its forces to the development of the root system and the aboveground part, which will ensure better flowering in subsequent years.

• Watering, feeding, pruning and preparing for winter - see the relevant sections.

Hydrangea garden care: growing secrets

Flower care consists of watering, fertilizing, pruning and preparing for winter. Spring is the best time to add mulch to the trunk circle for more moisture retention. Spread sawdust, peat, pine needles or chips 7-8 cm in a layer, 24-30 cm in diameter.

Top dressing

When planting hydrangeas in a soil mixture with fertilizers, you do not need to feed for the first two years. The general rule of dressing until July is acidic fertilizers (ammonium sulfate, potassium sulfate), and from July to October potassium-phosphorus fertilizers (bone meal, superphosphate).

The plant's nutrient requirements are high as it grows rapidly and blooms vigorously.

1. Complex food for growth. In the beginning - mid-May, feed with a complex mineral fertilizer - 25-35 grams per 10 liters of water. Or separately a tablespoon (15 grams) of urea + 25-30 grams of superphosphate (2 tablespoons) and a tablespoon (15 grams) of potassium sulfate.
   Mineral fertilizers can be supplemented with organic: infusion of mullein or bird droppings - 1:10. Repeat feeding after 13-16 days.
2. Potassium-phosphorus fertilizing for flowering. 12-16 days before flowering (beginning - mid-June) liquid feeding is carried out: dissolve 65-75 grams of superphosphate and 41-49 grams of potassium sulfate in water and pour over the bush.
3. During flowering. Repeat the previous feeding, at the time of mass flowering, to prolong it and ensure the establishment of new flower buds.

• For feeding, it is not recommended to use wood ash. Fertilizers work well for heather species and rhododendron.
• Avoid an excess of nitrogen, which leads to a decrease in winter hardiness, deterioration of flowering and promotes the development of rot. Apply only in April - May.
• Important! An overabundance of fertilizers, especially organic ones (mullein, droppings) will do more harm than a lack.

Watering hydrangeas

The flower is hygrophilous and needs regular watering. Drought is contraindicated, the lack of a sufficient amount of moisture leads to developmental disruption.

In dry and hot weather, water every 7-8 days with 15-20 liters of water. The usual schedule is 15-25 liters of water every 13-16 days, and if it is rainy summer, then 4-5 times per season.

The lack of moisture in the fall reduces the winter hardiness of the plant, so if there is little rain in the fall, then additional watering is required.

Periodically add 2-3 grams of potassium permanganate to the water for irrigation to prevent the development of rot. Soft water works best for watering.

We recommend reading: "WATER FOR IRRIGATION OF PLANTS, WHICH IS BETTER?»

It is better to water in the morning or in the evening in the trunk circle, when there is no scorching sun.After each watering, it is advisable to loosen the soil 5-6 cm deep around the plant.

Pruning hydrangeas correctly: spring and fall

All species tolerate pruning well and need it, but each has its own characteristics. Pruning in the spring can only be carried out from 3-4 years of age. The most common types of hydrangeas in Russian gardens are divided into two groups according to the type of pruning.

Group No. 1 (large-leaved hydrangea (garden), prickly, serrate, oakleaf, Sargent and petiolate)

These species bloom on last year's shoots and need sanitary and cosmetic pruning. The optimal pruning time is as soon as the buds are a little swollen, there is no active movement of juices, plus such trimmed shoots can be rooted. Let's talk about the example of a garden hydrangea.

Large-leaved hydrangea (macrophile) cannot be cut off, but can only be rejuvenated. Every spring, prune every fourth branch over 3 years old, especially the one growing inward, so that the bush does not thicken, as well as dead, weak (thin) or broken stems at the root. Such pruning, in addition to giving a more decorative shape, improves flowering.

Spring pruning of garden hydrangea (large-leaved)

An exception: modern varieties from the series "Forever and ever", "You & Me", as well as varieties "MiniPenny", which bloom on the shoot of the first and previous years. They are pruned depending on the condition of the plant and the past winter.

• Petiolate hydrangea is poorly pruned: long stems are shortened for better branching.

Group No. 2 (tree and paniculate)

These species blooming on young shoots (current season) are pruned every year before bud break. Best moment: mid to late March (as soon as the snow melts). An annual formative pruning is required, as if the flower thickens, the inflorescences will become smaller.

1. Hydrangea treelike wakes up first. Shoots are cut to 2-3 buds from the ground. On a powerful and mature bush, sometimes only one pair of buds is left. To form a decorative form of the bush, cut off the weak and growing inward shoots.
2. Panicle hydrangea needs more gentle pruning. Last year's shoots are shortened by a third.

Tips

• To thin out the bush, remove the old, weak and growing inward shoots completely annually.
• Cut off the frozen stems to the first living bud.

Bush rejuvenation

It is easy to rejuvenate an old bush with the help of special pruning: cut off all shoots at a height of 5-7 cm from ground level ("under the stump") or to the level of perennial wood. Next spring, young shoots will begin to grow, and the decorative effect of the bush will be restored.

Should I prune my hydrangea for the winter?

In the fall, the faded inflorescences are cut off at the hydrangea without fail, so that the branches do not break under the weight of the snow.

Stamp form

Paniculata hydrangea can be grown in the form of a tree - a low bole. Choose one of the most developed shoot on a two-year-old plant grown from an apical cut, and cut off the rest. Then cut this shoot to the strongest bud every year in the spring, until it reaches 100 cm in height.

To form the crown in the following years, pinch the top of the shoot, and remove the new shoots completely. In the future, weak shoots are cut off annually and only 4-5 strongest branches are left for bushiness.

An example of a standard form of hydrangea paniculata

Hydrangea care in the fall and preparation for winter

After flowering, care for hydrangea in the fall consists in removing faded inflorescences and preparing for winter.

• Treelike hydrangea for the winter can not be covered, mulching is enough - it has high winter hardiness.
• In the conditions of the Middle Belt, Moscow Region, North-West, the Urals and Siberia, be sure to cover the hydrangea for the winter, and it is better to dig up the large-leaved hydrangea, transplant it into pots and bring it into the house.
  Since this species can be grown in areas where the temperature in winter is not lower than -23.5 ° C. The exception is some modern winter-hardy varieties mentioned in the "pruning" section.
• In more southern and warmer areas, hilling and mulching can be dispensed with.

Preparing for winter and sheltering hydrangeas

Inflorescences appear on last year's shoots (large-leaved hydrangea), and the goal is to completely preserve them from frost and damping off.

Since the leaves and flowers of large-leaved hydrangea die from small frosts at night, preparations for winter begin in mid-late October (after the first frost).

• Hydrangea garden paniculate and large-leaved must be covered for the winter.

1. To do this, they spud the bush with earth, and the trunk circle is mulched with rotted manure, needles or peat.
2. Then the stems are bent to the soil and covered with sawdust, spruce branches or dry leaves. And on top of the bush they put a box (box).
3. After the end of the spring frost (April), the winter shelter is dismantled and pruned.
4. It is better to carefully tie a large bush and make a frame shelter ("hut") above it by 8-12 cm and pour dry foliage inside it.

Preparing hydrangeas for winterShelter hydrangea for the winterTop layer of winter shelter for hydrangea

In case of short-term frosts, it is convenient to cover with lutrasil, white burlap or a double layer of film.

Shelter of a large-leaved hydrangea for the winter from a gardener from the Moscow region

1. In the fall, before the arrival of night frosts, cut off all the leaves from the bush. If you leave them, the flower will start to rot. Leave only flower buds at the tips of the branches, with a maximum of two leaves protecting them.
2. Tie all branches on the bush 3-4 pieces of approximately the same size into separate bundles with elastic material (elastic, tights, strips of fabric).
3. Bend the bundles as low as possible to the soil and secure with metal staples (electrodes, thick wire). It is necessary to bend the hydrangea to the ground carefully so as not to damage the shoots. In some varieties, they are very lignified and it is better to bend them down gradually, starting with a slight slope.
4. Before the cold weather begins (mid-November), cover the hydrangea with any non-woven material (burlap, agrofibre).
5. Before the onset of severe frosts, remove the cover and cover the flower with dry peat, compost or leafy soil. The base of the bush is less afraid of frost than the fragile tips of the shoots, so it is sprinkled quite a bit.
6. Place arcs over the plant and stretch the covering material again, and put a piece of film on top so that the ends remain open and there is no high humidity inside the winter shelter.

Shelter for the winter of a young hydrangea

Young seedlings are not cut off, but simply brought into the house in pots for the winter or covered with earth and additionally covered with a layer of peat, dry foliage, needles or sawdust for the winter.

When can you open a hydrangea after winter?

In the spring, you need to remove the winter shelter from the hydrangea at the right time to prevent the shoots from drying out.

1. In mid-March, remove the foil and covering material, scoop up the peat or soil, and cover again with burlap.
2. In early April, when the night frosts end and a stable heat comes, remove the cover from the large-leaved hydrangea completely.

The approximate dates for the Moscow region are indicated.

Hydrangea winter hardiness

Now the large-leaved hydrangea is increasingly grown in the conditions of central Russia and in the Moscow region, in the Urals and Siberia. However, not all winter-hardy varieties are able to bloom in any area due to the different microclimate.

The plant can withstand up to -23 ° C, and the most winter-hardy are treelike, paniculate and ground cover hydrangeas.

The winter hardiness of a plant increases if it received a sufficient amount of water in the fall, as well as potassium-phosphorus fertilization.

Diseases and pests

Hydrangea is very resistant to diseases and pests, but sometimes it is still affected by powdery mildew, spider mites and aphids (more often in greenhouses).

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Why doesn't hydrangea bloom in the garden? What to do?

We will list the most common reasons for not blooming.

1. Deficiency or excess of nutrients, especially nitrogen. With excessive feeding, especially with organic fertilizers, flowering is very difficult to achieve. Apply nitrogen only during active vegetation (April - May).
2. Improper pruning or winterization. The plant blooms on last year's shoots (upper buds). They often suffer from winter chills and are sometimes removed if over-pruned. If you have a large-leaved hydrangea, then read how to properly prune it - the "Pruning" section.
3. Excessive direct sunlight. Diffused light is ideal for hydrangea, but if it grows in a sunny place without shading in the midday heat, then flowering worsens and shortens.

How to speed up hydrangea flowering?

To make the bush bloom faster, sprinkle it as soon as the inflorescences become 2-4 cm in diameter twice with an interval of 5-7 days with gibberellins - 50 mg / liter of water. This treatment allows you to bloom 2-4 weeks earlier and get more massive and decorative flowering.

How to change the color of hydrangea flowers?

The flowers of the plant can change their color depending on the acidity of the soil and the ability to accumulate aluminum.

Water the bush with a solution of potassium alum (100 g / 10 liters of water). To change the color, you need to water 3-4 times every 12-15 days. Therefore, watering begins 50-70 days before flowering.

After that, the white or pink flowers (slightly alkaline soil) will turn blue or blue, depending on the concentration. At the same time, alum reduces acidity, so you need to use them carefully. The price of 100 g of alum is about 30-50 rubles.

Helpful Tips for Hydrangea Care

• If you want to dry hydrangea inflorescences for the winter, then cut them off immediately after all the flowers bloom. Tie in small bunches and hang flowers down in a dark place to dry.
• Hydrangea can be grown at home as a pot culture. In the fall, it sheds its leaves, for the winter it is cut off and transferred to a cool place (+ 4-6), and in late February - early March, it is placed in a bright and warm place without direct sunlight. In summer, the flower can be taken out into the open air and left until September.
• Experts advise planting ground cover species in the near-trunk circle: stonecrops, bryophyte saxifrage and others.

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We wish flowers to cheer you up and make you a little happier!

Hydrangea, planting and care are of no small importance when growing, since an unsuccessfully chosen place and soil composition of the soil can lead to diseases and poor development, in some cases death. In addition, after planting, you need to take care of the shrub correctly in order to achieve lush flowering and healthy growth ...

Site selection and soil preparation

When to plant a hydrangea? The best time for planting is spring, the moment when the earth thaws, the buds have not yet blossomed, and autumn is in the month of September. When choosing a place for an ornamental deciduous plant, keep in mind that it is better to plant a hydrangea in the shade or partial shade, since the bright sun causes slower growth, as a result of which the inflorescences become smaller.

Some types of hydrangeas can be grown in open, sunny areas, but abundant watering is required. It is advisable to protect young shrubs from the bright sun and strong winds. It is not recommended to be placed under trees that strongly absorb water.

The soil for hydrangea should be well-drained and moistened, consisting of a balanced mixture of humus, leafy soil, peat chips, river sand (2: 2: 1: 1). Regardless of the type and variety of hydrangea, remember that lime in the soil has a negative effect on development. The soil should have a Ph level of about 5.0.

Planting hydrangeas outdoors

In the northern regions of the country, it is preferable to plant hydrangea in open ground in the spring, in the southern regions, including the Kuban, the procedure is carried out in the fall. It is recommended to equip a planting hole for a beautiful shrub, the dimensions of which are 0.4 m in diameter and a depth of 0.4-0.5 m.When planting, be guided by the size of the root system, if too large, increase the volume of the hole. It is worth noting that the roots of the hydrangea are quite branched.

choosing a place and planting a hydrangea with a closed root system - in the photo

It is necessary to introduce the prepared soil mixture into the pit and make a small mound, on which the seedling is then carefully placed and the roots are straightened, they fall asleep without deepening the root collar, which should be flush with the soil. A slight deepening is permissible, but not more than 20-30 mm; too deep landing can subsequently lead to decay of the neck.

The soil in the near-trunk zone must be well tamped. Watering the hydrangea after planting is mandatory, it is necessary that the water seeps well to the depth of the roots of 30-40 cm. Watering is best done in the hole next to the plant.

Top dressing and mulching as the basis of care

To retain moisture after planting in a permanent place, the hydrangea is mulched in the trunk circle. Mulch also inhibits the growth of weeds and protects the roots from overheating. Peat chips, wood chips or bark are used as a mulching material, having a uniform layer of 8-10 cm.

Mulch will decompose over time and become part of the soil, slightly acidifying it. Mulch is best laid in late spring, when the ground is already well warmed up but still damp.

watering hydrangea - pictured

So that the shrub grows well and pleases with abundant flowering, the garden hydrangea is fertilized when planting, then in the spring in the third decade of May or in early summer - early June. Use a solution of mullein or chicken manure diluted 1:10 with water. Do not forget to fertilize with a complex of mineral fertilizers or add at least the most basic components - 20 grams of superphosphate, 10 grams of potassium nitrate and urea each. Subsequent feeding of hydrangea is carried out with an interval of 17-20 days and ends at the end of July, so that the young shoots have time to woody by the winter period.

For strong and flexible shoots, an ornamental shrub is watered with a solution of potassium permanganate of a weak pink color. In addition, garden stores sell special fertilizers for hydrangeas, which include magnesium and iron, which the plant needs.

mulching hydrangea with wood chips - pictured

Panicle hydrangea, large-leaved and ground cover are predominantly pinkish, creamy colors that can be changed if desired. The color of the hydrangea is directly related to the acidity of the soil. If the soil is slightly alkaline, then the flowering will be pink and crimson; on acidic soils, the hydrangea blooms with blue flowers.

To obtain blue flowers in alkaline earth, the shrub is watered with solutions of iron salts. To get a more intense blue color, rusty metal cans should be buried under the hydrangea.

Pruning hydrangeas - continue to groom

Do I need to prune a hydrangea and how to do it? In order for the care to be correct, it must be remembered that pruning of hydrangea large-leaved, serrated, prickly, Sargent, liana-shaped, oak-leaved is carried out taking into account the fact that flowers appear on the shoots of the second year, which means that you need to cut off old branches and weak ones, to strong buds.

Pruning panicle and tree hydrangea involves removing old and faded shoots, also weak. At the same time, experienced gardeners do not recommend removing a large number of shoots at the same time, it is better to stretch the procedure for a year or two so that the plant does not lose strength and does not die from excessive cutting operations.The main branches, as a rule, are not touched, only those that are bad and grow inside the bush are cut off.

autumn pruning hydrangea - pictured

You can prune hydrangeas in spring and autumn, but it is preferable in the fall, since sap flow slows down, and a haircut will contribute to lush flowering in spring. In the spring months, improper pruning can slow down growth and delay flowering. In addition, in the spring, the processes begin to actively start at the shrub, juice is released during pruning, so be careful not to harm the plant. In spring, pruning is best done as early as possible, before the buds swell and constant heat is established.

Pruning hydrangeas for the winter is carried out as usual, with only one difference - it is better not to touch young shrubs and let them overwinter without surgery, otherwise you risk ruining the plant. Hydrangea, planting and caring for which is not at all difficult, will certainly delight with its lush flowering, if you suddenly decide to grow an unpretentious plant in your garden.

Gotense: related photos

We describe planting and caring for hydrangeas in spring and autumn (tree, large-leaved (garden), paniculate and petiolate). Consider the place, soil, planting rules and step-by-step instructions, as well as watering, feeding, pruning and preparing for winter (Moscow region, North-West, Ural, Siberia and southern regions).

Planting hydrangeas in open ground: location, soil, distance and depth

The plant is thermophilic, fast-growing and needs fertile soil and sufficient moisture.

We describe planting in open ground for any type of hydrangea: oak-leaved, large-leaved (garden), paniculate, serrate, treelike, petiolate, Sargent and others.

Pick-up location

Hydrangea (all types) is a light-loving plant, it grows well in a sunny and open place, but bright sun and strong winds should be avoided. Therefore, at the peak of the heat, light shading is necessary, she very much loves diffused light.

At the same time, the shrub is able to grow well in light partial shade, in this case it later blooms with fewer flowers. It is very important to have sun rays in the morning, in the morning. Therefore, the east side is better suited than the west side.

Soil and acidity

Hydrangea grows well on fertile, humus-rich clay soils. It develops worse on red earth, and sandy soils are contraindicated.

The optimum acidity level is pH 5.2-6.0 (slightly acidic soil). The maximum brightness of inflorescences is observed precisely on acidic soil, and on neutral soil, slow development and pale color.

Alkaline soil leads to chlorosis (yellowing of the leaves). When the bush grows on alkaline soil, there is often a lack of iron and magnesium, which is manifested by light and pale color of the leaves.

Therefore, acidify the soil or treat the bush with iron chelate. In past centuries, gardeners buried iron items (nails, a bank, a horseshoe).

When planting, prepare a special balanced soil mixture with fertilizers.

Soil mix

Compound: humus, sod land, leafy soil and peat - equal parts or humus, garden soil (black soil), peat and sand - 2: 2: 1: 1. And also nutrients: 20-25 grams (tablespoon + teaspoon) of carbamide (urea), 24-29 grams of potassium sulfate (two tablespoons) and 60-70 grams of superphosphate (150-250 grams of bone meal).

If spruce and pine trees grow nearby, then under them you can dig up light, loose and slightly acidic soil. Some gardeners successfully grow flowers in such soil, even without fertilizing when planting.

A complete ban is lime, chalk and wood ash.

Landing distance

Large-leaved - 120-160 cm, and paniculate 140-240 cm between bushes, and from the nearest large shrubs and trees - 230-300 cm. If you want to plant hydrangea in a row (hedge, "mixborder"), you can dig a trench wide 90-110 cm.

If you want to achieve an earlier flowering, then when planting, dig holes closer to each other (70-80 cm), and after 2-3 years, thin out the bushes if necessary.

Landing pit

Depth - 36-45, width - 51-65 cm. Roots grow mainly in breadth, extending much further than the crown.

Planting depth

The root collar should be at the level of the soil, a maximum of 2-3 cm lower, otherwise the flower will develop poorly.

Step-by-step instructions for planting hydrangeas

1. Dig a hole to the correct size 15-30 days before planting.
2. Prepare potting mix and fill in the planting hole.
3. Dig a hole and place the seedling at the desired depth on the cone of the potting soil and spread the roots. Refill the hole gradually and compact the soil.
4. Water the bush with 8-12 liters of water and sprinkle with bark, sawdust or peat - 6-8 cm thick and 16-20 cm in diameter.
5. Protect the flower from direct sunlight during the day and strong winds.

When is the best time to plant hydrangea? Spring or Autumn?

Best planting time: spring - early May and autumn - September. At the same time, the most favorable period to plant hydrangea in cold climates is only spring, and in more southern regions it can be planted in spring and autumn.

Hydrangea care after planting

Preparing for flowering

For the first two years, cut the inflorescences at the bud stage (“pea”). And then the plant will direct all its forces to the development of the root system and the aerial part, which will ensure better flowering in subsequent years.

• Watering, feeding, pruning and preparing for winter - see the relevant sections.

Hydrangea garden care: growing secrets

Flower care consists of watering, fertilizing, pruning and preparing for winter. Spring is the best time to add mulch to the trunk circle for more moisture retention. Spread sawdust, peat, pine needles or chips 7-8 cm in a layer, 24-30 cm in diameter.

Top dressing

When planting hydrangeas in a soil mixture with fertilizers, you do not need to feed for the first two years. The general rule of dressing until July is acidic fertilizers (ammonium sulfate, potassium sulfate), and from July to October potassium-phosphorus fertilizers (bone meal, superphosphate).

The plant's nutrient requirements are high as it grows rapidly and blooms vigorously.

1. Complex food for growth. In the beginning - mid-May, feed with a complex mineral fertilizer - 25-35 grams per 10 liters of water. Or separately a tablespoon (15 grams) of urea + 25-30 grams of superphosphate (2 tablespoons) and a tablespoon (15 grams) of potassium sulfate.
   Mineral fertilizers can be supplemented with organic: infusion of mullein or bird droppings - 1:10. Repeat feeding after 13-16 days.
2. Potassium-phosphorus fertilizing for flowering. 12-16 days before flowering (beginning - mid-June) liquid feeding is carried out: dissolve 65-75 grams of superphosphate and 41-49 grams of potassium sulfate in water and pour over the bush.
3. During flowering. Repeat the previous feeding, at the time of mass flowering, to prolong it and ensure the establishment of new flower buds.

• For feeding, it is not recommended to use wood ash. Fertilizers work well for heather species and rhododendron.
• Avoid an excess of nitrogen, which leads to a decrease in winter hardiness, deterioration of flowering and promotes the development of rot. Use only in April - May.
• Important! An overabundance of fertilizers, especially organic ones (mullein, droppings) will do more harm than a lack.

Watering hydrangeas

The flower is moisture-loving and needs regular watering. Drought is contraindicated, the lack of a sufficient amount of moisture leads to developmental disruption.

In dry and hot weather, water every 7-8 days with 15-20 liters of water. The usual schedule is 15-25 liters of water every 13-16 days, and if it is rainy summer, then 4-5 times per season.

The lack of moisture in the fall reduces the winter hardiness of the plant, so if there is little rain in the fall, then additional watering is required.

Periodically add 2-3 grams of potassium permanganate to the water for irrigation to prevent the development of rot.Soft water works best for watering.

We recommend reading: "WATER FOR IRRIGATION OF PLANTS, WHICH IS BETTER?»

It is better to water in the morning or in the evening in the trunk circle, when there is no scorching sun. After each watering, it is advisable to loosen the soil 5-6 cm deep around the plant.

Pruning hydrangeas correctly: spring and fall

All species tolerate pruning well and need it, but each has its own characteristics. Pruning in the spring can only be carried out from 3-4 years of age. The most common types of hydrangeas in Russian gardens are divided into two groups according to the type of pruning.

Group No. 1 (large-leaved hydrangea (garden), prickly, serrate, oakleaf, Sargent and petiolate)

These species bloom on last year's shoots and need sanitary and cosmetic pruning. The optimal pruning time is as soon as the buds are a little swollen, there is no active movement of juices, plus such trimmed shoots can be rooted. Let's talk about the example of a garden hydrangea.

Large-leaved hydrangea (macrophile) cannot be cut off, but can only be rejuvenated. Every spring, prune every fourth branch over 3 years old, especially the one growing inward, so that the bush does not thicken, as well as dead, weak (thin) or broken stems at the root. Such pruning, in addition to giving a more decorative shape, improves flowering.

Spring pruning of garden hydrangea (large-leaved)

An exception: modern varieties from the series "Forever and ever", "You & Me", as well as varieties "MiniPenny", which bloom on the shoot of the first and previous years. They are pruned depending on the condition of the plant and the past wintering.

• Petiolate hydrangea is poorly pruned: long stems are shortened for better branching.

Group No. 2 (tree and paniculate)

These species blooming on young shoots (current season) are pruned every year before bud break. Best moment: mid to late March (as soon as the snow melts). An annual formative pruning is required, as if the flower thickens, the inflorescences will become smaller.

1. Hydrangea treelike wakes up first. Shoots are cut to 2-3 buds from the ground. On a powerful and mature bush, sometimes only one pair of buds are left. To form a decorative form of the bush, cut off the weak and growing inward shoots.
2. Panicle hydrangea needs more gentle pruning. Last year's shoots are shortened by a third.

Tips

• To thin out the bush, remove the old, weak and growing inward shoots completely annually.
• Cut off the frozen stems to the first living bud.

Bush rejuvenation

It is easy to rejuvenate an old bush with the help of special pruning: cut off all shoots at a height of 5-7 cm from ground level ("under the stump") or to the level of perennial wood. Next spring, young shoots will begin to grow, and the decorative effect of the bush will be restored.

Should I prune my hydrangea for the winter?

In the fall, the faded inflorescences are cut off at the hydrangea without fail, so that the branches do not break under the weight of the snow.

Stamp form

Paniculata hydrangea can be grown in the form of a tree - a low bole. Choose one of the most developed shoot on a two-year-old plant grown from an apical cut, and cut off the rest. Then cut this shoot to the strongest bud each year in the spring, until it reaches 100 cm in height.

To form the crown in the following years, pinch the top of the shoot, and remove the new shoots completely. In the future, weak shoots are cut off annually and only 4-5 strongest branches are left for bushiness.

An example of a standard form of hydrangea paniculata

Hydrangea care in the fall and preparation for winter

After flowering, care for hydrangea in the fall consists in removing faded inflorescences and preparing for winter.

• Treelike hydrangea can not be covered for the winter, mulching is enough - it has high winter hardiness.
• In the conditions of the Middle Belt, Moscow Region, North-West, the Urals and Siberia, be sure to cover the hydrangea for the winter, and it is better to dig up the large-leaved hydrangea, transplant it into pots and bring it into the house.
  Since this species can be grown in areas where the temperature in winter is not lower than -23.5 ° C. The exception is some modern winter-hardy varieties mentioned in the "pruning" section.
• In more southern and warmer areas, hilling and mulching can be dispensed with.

Preparing for winter and sheltering hydrangeas

Inflorescences appear on last year's shoots (large-leaved hydrangea), and the goal is to completely preserve them from frost and damping off.

Since the leaves and flowers of large-leaved hydrangea die from small frosts at night, preparations for winter begin in mid-late October (after the first frost).

• Hydrangea garden paniculate and large-leaved must be covered for the winter.

1. To do this, they spud the bush with earth, and the trunk circle is mulched with rotted manure, needles or peat.
2. Then the stems are bent to the soil and covered with sawdust, spruce branches or dry leaves. And on top of the bush they put a box (box).
3. After the end of the spring frost (April), the winter shelter is dismantled and pruned.
4. It is better to carefully tie a large bush and make a frame shelter ("hut") above it by 8-12 cm and pour dry foliage inside it.

Preparing hydrangeas for winterShelter hydrangea for the winterTop layer of winter shelter for hydrangea

In case of short-term frosts, it is convenient to cover with lutrasil, white burlap or a double layer of film.

Shelter of a large-leaved hydrangea for the winter from a gardener from the Moscow region

1. In the fall, before the arrival of night frosts, cut off all the leaves from the bush. If you leave them, the flower will start to rot. Leave only flower buds at the tips of the branches, with a maximum of two leaves protecting them.
2. Tie all branches on the bush, 3-4 pieces of approximately the same size, into separate bundles with elastic material (elastic, tights, strips of fabric).
3. Bend the bundles as low as possible to the soil and secure with metal staples (electrodes, thick wire). It is necessary to bend the hydrangea to the ground carefully so as not to damage the shoots. In some varieties, they are very lignified and it is better to bend them down gradually, starting with a slight slope.
4. Before the cold weather begins (mid-November), cover the hydrangea with any non-woven material (burlap, agrofibre).
5. Before the onset of severe frosts, remove the cover and cover the flower with dry peat, compost or leafy soil. The base of the bush is less afraid of frost than the fragile tips of the shoots, so it is sprinkled quite a bit.
6. Place arcs over the plant and stretch the covering material again, and put a piece of film on top so that the ends remain open and there is no high humidity inside the winter shelter.

Shelter for the winter of a young hydrangea

Young seedlings are not cut off, but simply brought into the house in pots for the winter or covered with earth and additionally covered with a layer of peat, dry foliage, needles or sawdust for the winter.

When can you open a hydrangea after winter?

In the spring, you need to remove the winter shelter from the hydrangea at the right time to prevent the shoots from drying out.

1. In mid-March, remove the film and covering material, scoop up the peat or soil and cover again with burlap.
2. In early April, when the night frosts end and a stable heat comes, remove the cover from the large-leaved hydrangea completely.

The approximate dates for the Moscow region are indicated.

Hydrangea winter hardiness

Now the large-leaved hydrangea is increasingly grown in the conditions of central Russia and in the Moscow region, in the Urals and Siberia. However, not all winter-hardy varieties are able to bloom in any area due to the different microclimate.

The plant can withstand up to -23 ° C, and the most winter-hardy are treelike, paniculate and ground cover hydrangeas.

The winter hardiness of a plant increases if it received a sufficient amount of water in the fall, as well as potassium-phosphorus fertilization.

Diseases and pests

Hydrangea is very resistant to diseases and pests, but sometimes it is still affected by powdery mildew, spider mites and aphids (more often in greenhouses).

1. HOW TO FIGHT MEALY DEW? INSTRUCTIONS, MEANS AND FUNGICIDES.
2. HOW TO FIGHT AHEADS? FIGHT RULES AND BEST DRUGS!

Why doesn't hydrangea bloom in the garden? What to do?

We will list the most common reasons for not blooming.

1. Deficiency or excess of nutrients, especially nitrogen. With excessive feeding, especially with organic fertilizers, flowering is very difficult to achieve. Apply nitrogen only during active vegetation (April - May).
2. Improper pruning or winterization. The plant blooms on last year's shoots (upper buds). They often suffer from winter chills and are sometimes removed if over-pruned. If you have a large-leaved hydrangea, then read how to properly prune it - the "Pruning" section.
3. Excess direct sunlight. Diffused light is ideal for hydrangea, but if it grows in a sunny place without shading in the midday heat, then flowering worsens and shortens.

How to speed up hydrangea flowering?

To make the bush bloom faster, sprinkle it as soon as the inflorescences become 2-4 cm in diameter twice with an interval of 5-7 days with gibberellins - 50 mg / liter of water. This treatment allows you to bloom 2-4 weeks earlier and get more massive and decorative flowering.

How to change the color of hydrangea flowers?

The flowers of the plant can change their color depending on the acidity of the soil and the ability to accumulate aluminum.

Water the bush with a solution of potassium alum (100 g / 10 liters of water). To change the color, you need to spend 3-4 waterings every 12-15 days. Therefore, watering begins 50-70 days before flowering.

After that, the white or pink flowers (slightly alkaline soil) will turn blue or blue, depending on the concentration. At the same time, alum reduces acidity, so you need to use them carefully. The price of 100 g of alum is about 30-50 rubles.

Helpful Tips for Hydrangea Care

• If you want to dry hydrangea inflorescences for the winter, then cut them off immediately after all the flowers bloom. Tie in small bunches and hang flowers down in a dark place to dry.
• Hydrangea can be grown at home as a pot culture. In the fall, it sheds its leaves, for the winter it is cut off and transferred to a cool place (+ 4-6), and in late February - early March, it is placed in a bright and warm place without direct sunlight. In summer, the flower can be taken out into the open air and left until September.
• Experts advise planting ground cover species in the near-trunk circle: stonecrops, bryophyte saxifrage and others.

ADDITIONS TO THE ARTICLE:

1. REPRODUCTION OF GARDEN HORTENSIA: ALL WAYS!

2. TYPES AND BEST VARIETIES OF HYDRENZIUM WITH PHOTOS AND TITLES!

We wish flowers to cheer you up and make you a little happier!

The garden blooms with unusual colors in spring, and this continues until autumn. This hydrangea blooms for endless summer and delights in its appearance and scent. Planting a garden hydrangea and caring for it in the open field does not require special knowledge and costs, because it grows and reproduces well. And if you choose varieties by color, size, combined with other plants, you will get a lot of pleasure for the whole summer. Hydrangea is recognized as the queen of the garden!

When to plant a hydrangea: mastering planting rules

When choosing this flower as a decoration for your backyard territory, you do not need complex and time-consuming pruning procedures, greenhouse wisdom. The most important thing is to choose the right place for planting, water abundantly and apply top dressing on time. Planting hydrangeas in open ground should be in a sunny and calm place. This flower does not like shaded places. Outdoor planting should take place in the month of May or September.

How to plant a hydrangea for a lush bush

At the planting site, hydrangeas dig a depression in the ground half a meter deep and about 60-70 cm in diameter.When planting and growing several bushes in the garden, a distance of about one and a half meters should be laid between them. The plant, if properly cared for, grows and takes up a decent area. The depressions are covered with a special compound consisting of 1 part of sand, 1 part of peat, 2 parts of soil, 2 parts of humus.A fertilizer containing urea, potassium sulfide, superphosphate and humus is added.

It is important! You should not add lime to the mixture for feeding the roots of the flower - this will destroy the immature plant.

When planting a bush, you do not need to deeply deepen the root collar - it should be just below the surface level. The plant requires abundant watering.

Beginners are often interested in what year the bush blooms after planting. We answer: with proper planting and caring for the hydrangea, it will bloom next year. But in the first season, it is recommended to pick the flowers so that the plant gains strength, grows and grows stronger for the next flowering.

How to care for hydrangea in the garden

This is an unpretentious plant to care for. The main activities are reduced to abundant watering, periodic loosening of the soil around the bush, weeding and fertilization on schedule. If, when planting, you mulch the bushes with sawdust or a peat mixture, then you often do not have to water. Peat and sawdust retain moisture for a long time, which is sufficient for the development of a closed root system.

A perennial shrub requires proper pruning. Prune it before starting the growing season. Pruning hydrangeas in the garden is necessary to get rid of old shoots, leaving young and vigorous ones. Fresh shoots only need to be shortened to 4-5 buds. Remove wilted inflorescences periodically. Bushes planted on the site 5-7 years ago should be pruned to hemp, which will then give strength to new shoots.

How to plant a hydrangea: mastering feeding and fertilizing

Planting hydrangeas in fertilizer-rich soil will allow the first 2 years not to worry about fertilizing and feeding.

Then the rules for planting and caring for hydrangeas in the open field suggest the following:

• in the middle of spring, phosphorus-potassium and nitrogen-containing fertilizers are required at the base of each bush;
• feed with potassium sulfate and superphosphate for the second time in the season during the period of swelling of the buds;
• over the summer, this honey plant is fed several more times with a solution of cow chicken manure.

It is important! Excess nitrogen in root feeding can affect the color change of inflorescences to a pale green hue.

About breeding methods

Along with other shrub perennial plants, this miracle bush reproduces vegetatively with the help of cuttings, dividing the rhizome, rooting cuttings and sowing seeds.

When propagating by cuttings in the middle of summer, young shoots not yet covered with bark are cut off and rooted in a special turf. The soil contains coarse sand and peat. It is advisable to add crushed mossy sphagnum to the soil for greater looseness and moisture retention. Cuttings are planted with a slight slope every 5-6 cm and strictly monitor the temperature regime (+ 17 + 20C) and humidity. After a month and a half, shoots with roots are planted at the selected planting site and provide all of the above care measures.

When dividing a bush, it is important that young shoots have 3-4 buds. The rhizome is carefully separated, and the shoots are planted in a place prepared in the garden.

Hydrangea propagates in the garden with the help of layering: young shoots from a common bush are pressed to the ground in a place where a hole has been dug in advance (up to 20 cm), and they are added dropwise. For a tighter connection, the elastic shoot is sometimes fixed with staples. To speed up the root formation process, it is recommended to slightly cut the shoot in the area where it will be dug. New education needs abundant watering. As the roots develop, the connecting link is cut, and the young bush is planted in the place allotted to it.

About possible diseases and pests

The plant is resistant to diseases and pests. But it is also susceptible to infection. Downy mildew, chlorosis, the appearance of spider mites and leaf aphids are the most common ailments of the garden hydrangea.

Have the leaves lost their natural color, become lighter? This is chlorosis, which develops due to excess lime or humus in the ground.Add nitric acid potassium, copper sulfate to watering, and alternate these two solutions after two days on the third.

Downy mildew appears if the air humidity is high. Treating the leaves of the plant with copper sulfate with the addition of laundry soap will help get rid of the disease.

Garlic tincture is capable of overcoming the army of aphids. It is prepared as follows: garlic (200 gr.) Is chopped and infused in a bucket of water for 2 days, then laundry soap (40 gr.) Is added. This solution is sprayed on the bushes once a week until the pests are completely destroyed.

Varietal and species classification

The plant is rightfully considered the favorite of all the other suburban garden flowers. A long flowering period of 4 months until October, various shades and shapes of inflorescences create a wonderful image for this plant and make it desirable for owners of country houses, summer cottages, designers who successfully use the advantages of shrubs in creating landscapes.

The flowers are shaped like balls or tassels, the petals are white, lilac, red, pale pink and even two-colored. The most popular in the Moscow region, and throughout the country, is a tree-like form. This bush is unpretentious, easy to care for and reproduce, it is recommended for breeding even for beginners. Up to 30 varieties of this flower are known. But the most popular among land owners are the following varieties:

• "Annabel" is a lush bush with a height of up to 1.5 m. Its snow-white spherical inflorescences bloom from the beginning of summer and bloom until September. Stays green until winter. Adapted to the conditions of our winters, does not require insulation.
• "Grandiflora" has large snow-white flowers, flowering period from June to October.
• "Sterilis" with its hemispheres of pale green and white from mid-summer to October cannot but delight homeowners with its lush color and aroma.

• BellaAnna is a novelty among other varieties. The flowers are in the form of balls, hydrangea bushes in the garden grow up to 3 m in diameter. It happens with pale pink flowers and crimson, the flowering period is until October.

• "InvincibelSpirit" is attractive with a delicate pinkish shade of petals.

Paniculate and tree hydrangeas are very popular. Their flowers are of an original shape, bloom for a long period, and can change color. The plant is frost-hardy and can withstand even the harshest winters in the north of the country. These include varieties:

• "Vanilla Freise", which has delicate white-pinkish petals;
• "Limelight" blooms only in autumn, flowers are large, delicate lemon shade;
• PinkyWinky is attractive with pale red petals.

Hydrangea in landscape design projects

Excellent compositions are constructed by contemporary designers using various shapes and colors. Taking into account the climatic conditions of the territory of Russia, professionals advise choosing tree-like, paniculate and petiolate hydrangea varieties for planting.

Experts advise against using flowers in compositions with yellowish, red, orange hues. Successfully highlight the advantages of the bushes of plants blooming in a pale blue color, conifers, leaves, cereal family, juniper, clematis.

This plant is deservedly recognized as the basis of a beautiful garden. With good care and cultivation, hydrangeas will be a delight to the eyes for years to come.

Planting garden hydrangeas and care have their own characteristics. To admire the beautiful and lush flowering, we will learn how to properly care for this plant.

Garden hydrangea - species and varieties

There are many types and varieties of this ornamental shrub. Most of them prefer to grow in partial shade, but there are some that do well in sunny areas. The height of the bushes and the flowering period are very different and depend on the variety.

The most common types:

• Large-leaved. It blooms in the second half of summer with lush inflorescences in the form of balls. Flowers can have different shades. Height - 2 m.Requires shelter in winter, maximum tolerates temperatures down to -10 ° C
• Pereshkovaya. Variety of creepers. It blooms with white-pink inflorescences. Requires support, otherwise it will creep along the ground. A good option for arbors and arches.
• Tree-like. The flowers are snow-white. Height - up to 3 m. It looks very impressive, but freezes in winter. The plus is that the plant recovers quickly. Requires strong spring pruning.
• Paniculata. It blooms from July to late autumn with dense panicles 30 cm long. The shade of the inflorescences varies from white to greenish. The height of the bush is 3-4 m. An unpretentious and frost-resistant variety.

On the basis of these species, many different varieties have been created, each of which is beautiful in its own way. Depending on the type, hydrangeas can be deciduous or evergreen, but in our area they are most often grown in the first version.

Growing features

Interestingly, the shade of the inflorescences can be adjusted independently by adding certain fertilizers to the soil. On neutral soil, the flowers will have a beige or cream shade. A soil with a high alkali content gives flowers a pink or lilac color, acids - a blue one.

Bright illumination is very important for the shrub, but the scorching rays of the sun are destructive for it, as well as deep shadow. Therefore, it is best to plant a flower where there is shade at lunchtime, and the rest of the time - the sun.

It is important not to overfeed the seedlings with organic matter. They will grow green mass, but are unlikely to bloom.

Landing in open ground

Hydrangea is a demanding flower. Therefore, already before landing, you need to think carefully about all the nuances.

Site and soil preparation

The landing site must be prepared in advance - about 2 weeks in advance. The soil should be acidic and well moisturized. The acidity can be adjusted independently with the help of special preparations. Depending on the variety, the flowers can grow in partial shade or in the sun. The best place for planting is light partial shade; in a strong shade, the plants will not bloom.

The hole should be small: 40 cm deep and 40 cm wide. If a group planting is planned, then the distance between the bushes should be at least 90-100 cm. Sand and fertilizers are added to the pit, mixing well with the ground. The next layer is poured a little peat.

How and when to plant?

Planting is done in early spring or autumn. It depends on the climate of each region. In cold areas, it is better to plant the bushes in the spring so that they can give new roots, get stronger and be able to survive the harsh winter. In warmer regions, planting can be done in the fall. If planting is done in spring, then annual shoots should be shortened by at least 3 buds.

It is advisable to shorten the roots of the seedling a little. When planting, you need to ensure that the root collar is not covered with earth. The planted bush is abundantly watered and mulched with peat. When watering, care must be taken that a strong jet of water does not erode the soil near the roots.

As soon as new leaves appear on the plant, this indicates that the process of the formation of new roots is in full swing.

Phantom hydrangea care

Hydrangea Phantom is one of the most beautiful of the paniculata family. It blooms magnificently throughout the season with long panicles and exudes a pleasant aroma. The variety is resistant to root diseases and frost, quickly recovers after freezing. The bush can grow in one place for many years without requiring a transplant.

Watering and feeding

"Hydrangea" translated from Latin means "yearning for water." The flower is very hygrophilous, therefore, in no case should the soil dry out. Watering should be regular and abundant. As soon as the topsoil dries up a little, the plant needs to be watered again. If the ground around the bush is mulched with peat, you can water less often, since the soil does not dry out so quickly. In the first years, 7-8 liters of water are poured under each seedling, in subsequent years - at least 18 liters.

Watering is the best time to feed.In early spring, the plant needs nitrogen fertilization, during the budding period - in potassium and phosphorus.

It is useful to water the bushes with acidified water once every 2 weeks. For 10 liters of water, you need to take 1 tbsp. l. citric acid. The solution is poured directly under the roots. In addition, in the spring-summer period, once every 3-4 weeks, you need to loosen the ground in order to improve aeration.

How to transplant and prune?

The plant tolerates pruning well. If you do not cut it, the bush will lose its decorative effect, and the flowering will be weak. It is best to do this procedure in the spring, when the buds are swollen. If the bushes are too old, they can be easily renewed by cutting them almost to the root.

All types of hydrangeas can be divided into two groups:

• To the first category includes those species and varieties, the flowers of which are formed on the shoots of the last year (petiole, prickly, large-leaved, serrate). They do not need special pruning, it is enough to remove old, dried and improperly growing branches.
• To the second category includes species that form flowers on the shoots of the current year (paniculate and tree-like). These bushes require strong pruning, all shoots should be shortened in early spring to 2-3 pairs of buds.

When the hydrangea is going to bloom for the first time, you need to immediately cut off all the buds so that the plant gains strength and can bloom profusely next year. Formative pruning of the bush within 5 years will produce a beautiful little tree.

It is necessary to transplant Phantom hydrangea only in extreme cases. It grows well in the same place for years. Therefore, transplanting is justified if an adult bush needs to be divided into parts and planted in other places.

Flower care in autumn

Caring for a garden hydrangea in autumn consists in pruning the inflorescences, while removing at least 3 buds from the top of the shoot. This must be done so that suddenly falling wet snow does not freeze on them and break fragile branches. The base of the bushes must be highlighted, and the ground around them must be well mulched. This will protect the superficial root system from frost.

How does hydrangea winter?

In the middle lane, the shrub tolerates winter well. But for a safety net, it is still better to cover it with spruce branches. In the northern regions, the flower is taken to a room with a positive temperature for the winter, since severe frosts can destroy it.

Sometimes the bushes are neatly tied, wrapped in spunbond and a mesh frame is erected near them. The space between the covering material and the mesh is filled with dry foliage. With the first breeze of heat, the leaves are removed, but the spunbond is removed only after a constant positive temperature is established.

How does garden hydrangea reproduce?

The easiest way to propagate a hydrangea is cuttings. They are cut in the spring from annual green shoots. It is necessary to cut at right angles. The length of the cuttings is no more than 12 cm. Leaves are removed from the bottom, treated with preparations to stimulate growth and planted in a greenhouse or boxes.

A good option is to multiply the flower by dividing it. This can be done both in spring and autumn. The bush is carefully dug up and divided into 3-4 parts, so that each one has several renewal buds. The workpieces are planted in pre-marked places.

Also, without much effort, you can propagate the hydrangea by layering. Young shoots are gently bent to the ground, fixed and buried in the ground, leaving the top (about 20 cm). As early as the next spring or autumn, the root cuttings can be separated from the mother plant and transplanted.

Sometimes the shrub is propagated by seeds or grafting, but these are too laborious methods. Knowing how the garden hydrangea reproduces, you can choose the appropriate method in advance and do it in a timely manner.

Protection against diseases and pests

Hydrangeas rarely get sick, while the lion's share of the disease is transferred with seedlings. For this reason, you only need to buy new plants from proven nurseries.Other causes of diseases are called plantings thickening, lack of nutrients and high air humidity.

Many fungal diseases can be fought with copper oxychloride.

One of the most common diseases is chlorosis. Due to a lack of iron, the leaves turn yellow, while the veins remain green. For treatment, drugs Agricol, Brexil are used. As a preventive measure, plants need to be fed with iron-containing fertilizers in a timely manner.

Use in landscape design

Hydrangea looks great both in single plantings and in group plantings. You just need to design in advance its location at a decent distance from other plants. Over time, the bushes grow strongly and require a lot of space.

The flower can be planted as a soloist in the front garden if it is located on the north side of the house. When choosing hydrangea companions in a mixborder, you need to take into account their features. Similar requirements for moisture, lighting and soil acidity in astilbe, hosts, cuffs. If the site is large, you can plant a composition of several bushes. Their sprawling shape will create an expressive accent in the garden. These shrubs are often used to restrict areas of the garden.

Hydrangeas work well with a variety of garden styles, so they can be grown by anyone.

It will take a lot of knowledge, effort and time to create a stylish and beautiful flower garden. The right choice would be to plant a garden hydrangea. Having learned the intricacies of growing a flowering shrub in the article "Hydrangea garden planting and outdoor care", Your time for caring for the plant is minimized. And in return, a gorgeous bush will delight with its flowering from July to October, while during the flowering period, spherical inflorescences change their color from pink to blue.

Hydrangea garden planting and outdoor care in autumn

This flower is quite thermophilic. Therefore, when choosing a plant for planting in open ground, you need to choose street varieties garden hydrangea. Planting and care in the open field in the fall even inexperienced growers can do it.

It is better to plant a hydrangea in September. We choose a sunny bed, without winds and drafts.

To plant a plant, you need to dig a hole 50 * 50 * 60 cm in size. We fertilize the earth well with peat, humus and sand. Bushes are planted at a distance of at least 2 m.

When planting, the root neck of the hydrangea should be at ground level. After planting, water and mulch the plant abundantly.

Hydrangea care is kept to a minimum. But it is still worth knowing about some of the features of growing a flowering shrub:

• It is enough to fertilize the plant 2 times a year. Nitrogen fertilizers are applied in June and potassium-containing fertilizers in August.
• It is enough to loosen the soil once a month by no more than 10 cm.
• Hydrangea requires frequent and abundant watering.

In the fall, the plant must be pruned. In young shrubs, faded flowers are removed, older hydrangeas, in order to renew them, are cut off completely.

Correct pruning is a guarantee of exuberant flowering for the next year.

With the onset of cold weather, the shrub is covered with sawdust or spruce branches.

Garden hydrangea: planting and care in the open field, reproduction

Reading the next section of the article “Garden hydrangea: planting and care in the open field ", reproduction plants will become a favorite pastime.

Hydrangea reproduces:

1. seeds,
2. cuttings,
3. dividing the bush
4. layering.

The most difficult thing is to propagate the bush by seeds and cuttings.

Most growers will like reproduction by dividing the bush and layering.

In the fall, a bush is dug up, divided into parts and planted back into the ground.

For reproduction by layering, near an adult bush, you need to dig a hole up to 20 cm deep and put a pinned young shoot in it. In order to accelerate the appearance of roots, the shoot is incised at the point of contact with the ground.It remains to water and wait for the emergence and development of the root system. Then the young plant is separated and transplanted to a new place.

Propagation of hydrangea by cuttings, how to save cuttings in winter video

Garden hydrangea: planting and care in the open field in the North-West

An unpretentious beauty is perfect for decorating a flower gardengarden hydrangea. Planting and grooming outdoors in northwest Russia will not be a burden. And cold and rainy weather will not interfere with long flowering and preservation of the decorative effect of the bush.

For this region, it is worth choosing cold-resistant varieties. Hydrangea paniculata, treelike, large-leaved, serrate, petiolate and ashy are perfect. These varieties adapt well to acidic peat soils and the close location of groundwater to the soil surface, which is typical for the northwestern regions of the country.

Hydrangea garden photo

Paniculata

Tree-like

Large-leaved

Serrated

Pereshkovaya

Ash