Climbing rose planting in the fall and care in the open field

Let's find out in more detail what a climbing rose is. Planting and caring for this marvelous flower in the open field will be discussed in stages in this article. Summer residents and gardeners know that with the help of this type of roses, you can turn even the most modest plot into a beautiful romantic corner.

Climbing rose - description of the type and planting features

The shoots of climbing roses can reach several meters. Any support located in close proximity to the bush is quickly braided by its long and flexible branches. You have probably admired the amazingly beautiful flower arches more than once. Floral columns, pyramids, trellises, well-disguised old buildings, part of a wall or roof - any garden structure can be decorated with a luxurious climbing rose. This type of plant is ideal for vertical gardening, but in order for everything to look harmonious and attractive, you should know the rules for planting, pruning, caring for and protecting bushes from pests.

The color scheme of this type of roses is as varied as that of their park or ground cover relatives. Buds range in size from 2.5 to 12 cm in diameter, climbing rose varieties bloom in June and continue to bloom as long as the warm season lasts (approximately 30-170 days, depending on the variety). There are many varieties of climbing roses, but they can all be divided into groups:

• Semi-plaited, whose height reaches 1.5-3 meters.
• Climbing - 3-5 meters.
• Curly - 5-15 meters.

The shoots of these roses are formed continuously, the phases of budding and flowering differ, again, depending on the variety. Among these representatives there are both single-flowering species and re-flowering species.

Climbing rose, photo:

The buds of certain varieties can exude a pronounced aroma that can be heard from a distance, some of them smell slightly audible, subtle and tender. This culture will feel great in sunny places with good ventilation. Wetlands are strictly contraindicated for it, as are sandstones and heavy clay soil. In general, loose loams or fertile soils with good soil permeability are most suitable for this type of roses.If your site is dominated by an unsuitable soil for a climbing rose, then be sure to dilute it with a suitable one. Thus, sand is added to the clay soil, and clay is added to the sandy soil (to a depth of about 30 cm), in addition to this, humus or humus, as well as phosphorus additives, should be added.

All land adaptation procedures must be carried out six months before planting roses, or at least 2 months before that. Experienced gardeners recommend planting climbing roses where their counterparts have not previously grown. If it does not work in another way, then before planting you need to replace the top layer of the earth (by 50-70 cm). Ideally, the climbing rose should be planted on a small hill. The root system of these plants goes deep into the soil (up to 2 meters), so you should make sure in advance that the groundwater at the chosen place does not pass close to the top layer of the soil.

If you decide to "drape" a part of the house wall with a climbing rose, then the distance between the bush and the wall should be at least 60 cm (and at least half a meter from other plants). Most often, a climbing rose is planted in the last weeks of September or in the first half of October. Thus, before the onset of serious cold snaps, the roots will have time to take root in a new place. With the arrival of spring, all parts of the plant will enter a phase of active development and growth, and by the beginning of summer the rose will bloom in lush color. If a climbing rose is planted in the ground in the spring, then by this time it should warm up to at least +10 ° C, catch the moment when the buds have not yet blossomed - this is important. The second half of April / first weeks of May is the most optimal time for spring planting.

↑ to the content ↑ Planting a climbing rose in the ground in spring

I will make a reservation right away that the rules for spring planting of seedlings are not much different from autumn ones. All stages described, as well as subsequent care, are applied both in spring and autumn. You should be prepared for the fact that the roses planted in spring will lag slightly in development, require increased attention from you to your person. Compared to their autumn counterparts, they can delay flowering times by about 10 days.

So, before planting, the seedling needs to shorten the branches, up to about 20 cm in length, the roots, too, up to 30 cm. Dig a spacious hole so that the roots have room to grow. The depth of the hole should be 60-70 cm.If you are planting several bushes, then the distance between them should be at least 100 cm. When immersing the seedling in the soil, make sure that the root collar is also buried 12-15 cm - this will protect it from frost in the cold season. The roots are gently straightened, covered with soil, slightly compacted with your hands. Make sure that all the roots are directed downwards and do not bend upwards!

Planting a climbing rose in spring provides for the introduction of nutritious soil into the hole. About 3-5 kg, for example, peat compost, will appeal to your rose. After planting, the soil is trampled down a little and watered abundantly. It will be very good if you add a preparation with beneficial bacteria that stimulates growth, for example, Phosphobacterin, to the water for this first watering. The Heteroauxin phytohormone is also great.

In some cases, summer residents cover newly planted bushes with plastic wrap - this technique contributes to better adaptation of plants in a new place. It is up to you to decide whether to do it or not, if the weather conditions in your region push you to create greenhouse conditions for climbing roses, then do not forget to lift the film daily and gradually increase the airing time every day. After stable warm weather is established, remove the film and cover the ground around the bushes with leaf humus, peat, chopped bark or straw.

↑ back to contents ↑ How to plant a climbing rose in the spring, bought in a store?

Today in flower shops you can buy climbing rose seedlings with open or closed root systems. Representatives with open roots should be immediately planted in the ground. When choosing, pay attention to the presence of lignified shoots - there should be at least two of them. Such a shoot must be ripe (bend with a crunch), otherwise the rose may not withstand wintering. The bush as a whole should look healthy, have well-developed roots, strong, without dried out fragments. The length of the shoots should be at least 60-70 cm.

Climbing rose varieties with a closed root system are sold in pots, so you cannot immediately assess the condition of the roots. Carefully inspect the shoots, they should look healthy, not very elongated, if they have a light green color, then it is better to refrain from buying. The elongation of the shoots and their light shade indicate improper storage of seedlings - either in excessive heat or in insufficient lighting. Such a rose will be weak, painful, unlikely to survive the winter. Close attention should also be paid to the grafting sites; a properly grafted cutting should have callus tissue at the "joint" site, which promotes fusion. If the graft site is peeling and looks unhealthy, then with such a rose you will only have problems.

Planting a climbing rose in spring from the store, steps:

1. A rose with a closed root system is carefully removed from the pot along with an earthen lump, and then planted in the chosen place. For representatives with an open root system, remove the film from the roots, place them in water. If there are buds or shoots below the grafting site, remove them. If there is wild growth, we also remove it, too long shoots can be pinched. Do not forget to powder the cut points with charcoal or activated charcoal.
2. The roots should stay in the water for 3-4 hours, thus, the plant will be saturated with moisture, the transport soil will become soft, it can be easily removed and carefully examine the root system. Stimulant "Kornevin" can be added to the water (according to the instructions).
3. We take the roses out of the water, straighten the roots as carefully as possible and place the seedling in the dug hole. About what the pit should be and how to mix the soil (if the situation requires it), it has already been described just above. Water the rose well.
4. After the water is absorbed, you can add more earth (spud). When re-filling the soil, the grafting site can be covered with a layer of soil, but not more than 3 cm.
5. If the spring sun is shining too brightly, do not be too lazy to cover the young bush with a paper bag or a cloth of light shades - so it is guaranteed not to burn out. This protective coating can be left on for 5-7 days.

Further, you will need standard care for the climbing rose: hilling, watering, feeding, removing weeds, garter and forming a bush.

↑ back to content ↑ Climbing roses - care and cultivation

In heat and drought, rose bushes should be watered once every five days. After 20 days after planting, you need to carefully shake off the soil from the bush. By the way, roses planted in autumn are also opened after winter in the first weeks of April. For this procedure, it is advisable to choose a non-sunny day, so that later the plant does not experience stress during the nighttime temperature drop. Make sure that the grafting site remains about 10 cm buried in the soil.

During the growing season, the climbing rose requires generous watering. After the buds appear, as well as after the formation of the bush, the plant should be watered every 10 days. At the same time, water should penetrate to the very roots and deeper, 10-12 liters per bush will be quite enough. A couple of days after rain or watering, you need to loosen the soil around the rose. It can also be mulched.For roses, both waterlogging and lack of moisture are equally harmful, so observe the golden mean in this matter.

Climbing rose, photo:

↑ back to contents ↑ How to fertilize climbing roses

Fertilization is an important step in caring for a climbing rose, because this species is quite picky about feeding. Throughout the summer, nitrogen supplements should be alternated with complex fertilizers; it is recommended to apply them every 2-3 weeks. With the onset of spring, the plant is fed with a complex mineral fertilizer, for example - "Agricola-Rose" (according to the instructions). After two or three weeks, you can add organic matter - fertilizer "Ideal" or "Flower". You can also use the old proven method - 10 liters of mullein and 3 kg of wood ash, diluted in 50 liters of water. It is recommended to dilute one liter of this mixture in 10 liters of water, and then water the plant with the resulting composition at the very root. From about the second week of July, you can begin to slowly add phosphorus and potassium supplements in order to prepare the bushes in advance for the coming winter. Carefully read the dosage of drugs in the instructions, remember that by overfeeding the rose with chemistry, you can simply ruin it.

↑ to contents ↑ Care of a climbing rose in the first year

How does it differ from standard requirements? The further development and splendor of flowering depends on competent care in the first year of a plant's life. When new shoots appear, the soil is removed from the bushes (the one that was used for hilling). If there are sunny days, then at first, light shading with coniferous spruce branches will not hurt. After 10-12 days after removing the hilling soil, you can start the first pruning of the central shoot. It should be shortened over the second or third sheet. A little later, with the lateral branches of the second order, you need to do a similar procedure, while the eyes "looking" inside the bush must be removed, and those eyes that are located on the outside are left for further correct formation of the bush.

Caring for a climbing rose in the first year also involves removing the buds, as odd as it sounds. From the beginning of flowering until the first weeks of August, it is recommended to leave only two flowers on each branch. With the arrival of autumn, these flowers will turn into boxes with seeds (fruits), and after the manipulations carried out, your rose will bloom especially magnificently next year.

In summer, preventive irrigation should not be neglected against the invasion of parasites, and with the onset of autumn, rose bushes should be covered. Lutrasil, spunbond or coniferous spruce branches are an excellent covering material for this plant. The bush is completely covered. When a new spring comes, young bushes are opened first, older representatives - later. In principle, all climbing rose bushes are sheltered for the winter. An old proven method is hilling with earth and sand (1: 1) to a height of about 30 cm, with the arrival of autumn, and a little later - full cover with the onset of the first frost.

↑ back to contents ↑ Pruning climbing roses or how to prune a climbing rose

Is the climbing rose pruned in the fall for the winter? If other types of roses can be simply spud, then the climbing one must be covered completely - this factor does not depend on your region of residence. You can choose one of the methods of thermal insulation, in the first case, the ground part of the bush is removed from the support, the foliage is removed, and all weak and old shoots are cut off.

Here you have to choose 10-12 of the strongest and healthiest branches (remaining after pruning), combine them into one bunch, rewind with twine and gently tilt them to the ground. With the help of metal brackets (we cut the wire into fragments and bend), the branches are fixed on the ground, and then they are covered with an appropriate protective material. If there are several shrubs, they are located in close proximity to each other, then they can be covered with one common covering canvas.In the second case, everything happens in a similar way, only in this case the plant is not removed from the support, but reliably wrapped in protective material directly on it. The base of the bush is spud in the way described above.

How to prune a climbing rose? This important agrotechnical care measure needs to be given special attention. Pruning helps to shape the crown of the plant, promotes generous and long-lasting flowering, and has a positive effect on the health and vitality of the climbing rose. Immediately after planting, all shoots are shortened by 20-30 cm; in the summer, faded buds and branches growing inside the crown (thickening it) are cut off.

Starting from the second year of the plant's life, the branches are pruned at the end of the flowering phase.

How to prune climbing roses after flowering? They fade around the end of August - September (depending on the climate in the region), at this time all diseased and dead branches should be removed. The oldest shoots (choose 1 or 2) are cut off completely, subsequently they will be successfully replaced by young basal processes. If these processes are not there, then the old branches should be measured about 40 cm from the base, and the rest should be removed - this procedure is aimed at activating the growth of replacing basal branches.

The rest (not very old) shoots are cut off in the place where a new powerful growth began to form, subsequently it will act as a conductor. Short peduncle branches are cut to 2 or 3 buds (about 15-17 cm from the base of the branch), weak stems are cut to 3 buds (we also measure from the base). The skeleton (base) of the crown should be formed from the strongest, correctly growing shoots (evenly directed), on which young branches will then form.

How to prune a climbing rose in the spring? You should pick up the pruner when the buds begin to swell on the branches from below (last weeks of April / early May), not earlier. If you start pruning too early, then with night frosts, the branches may simply freeze, as a result of which the rose will bloom much later than the due date. If you miss pruning time, then the plant will throw all its energy into the formation of new branches and foliage, and flowering will be poor.

Pruning climbing roses in the spring has one important point - removal, namely, cutting off (not cutting) wild shoots that have grown below the grafting site. Usually this situation becomes apparent after the spring opening of the bushes. Also at this time all sick, frozen branches are removed, all affected fragments are clearly visible in spring, when buds swell on the “living” branches.

↑ back to content ↑ Transplanting a climbing rose to another place

Sometimes, due to inexperience, the gardener chooses an unsuccessful place where the plant feels uncomfortable and sick. In such cases, the situation can be corrected by transplanting. The best time for this operation is autumn, September or the first weeks of October. It is not recommended to transplant later, since the rose needs time to adapt to a new place of residence before the onset of cold weather.

However, if circumstances require it, transplanting a climbing rose to another place is also possible. As soon as the ground thaws after the winter frosts, and the buds on the branches of roses have not yet had time to wake up, you can get down to business. To do this, the ground part of the plant is removed from the support, the bush itself is carefully dug in (moving in a circular manner), about 50-60 cm recede from the base of the plant.Do everything very carefully so as not to damage the root system of the rose, let the hole be deeper than necessary, but the roots will remain intact.

Next, the plant is removed from the ground, excess soil is removed from the roots, after which the climbing rose is immediately transplanted to a new place.

When replanting, the same rules are observed as with a standard planting - the roots are straightened and directed downward, the free space in the pit is filled with the appropriate soil mixture, the soil is lightly tamped and watered generously with water.

After 3-4 days, you should fill up the earth (it will settle slightly), spud your rose.

There is one interesting nuance associated with transplanting roses - their belonging to the climber and rambler groups. I will allow myself a small digression: all varieties of climbing roses can be figuratively divided into these two groups:

• climbers;
• ramblers.

Climbing varieties of climbing roses are called climbing, they form rough and thick branches that can reach 3-5 m in length. Climber shoots are not very flexible; when transplanting, they must be cut to half of their entire length!

Rambler are precisely curly roses with flexible and soft shoots-lashes, the length of which can reach 10 meters. Rumbler roses are characterized by active growth; when transplanted, they cut off all shoots that are more than two years old. All young branches are left intact, but at the end of the calendar summer they must be pinched tops - this technique accelerates the lignification of the branches.

↑ back to contents ↑ How to propagate a climbing rose?

There are four ways to propagate this rose: seeds, layers, cuttings and grafting. The most common and convenient option is grafting. Seed propagation is only possible if the seed is purchased at the appropriate store. As you know, self-collected seeds from climbing roses growing in your country house or in the garden do not carry the varietal characteristics of the mother plant.

↑ to content ↑ Growing a climbing rose from seeds

Pre-soak the seeds in 3% hydrogen peroxide for 30 minutes. Such disinfection creates a shield against the appearance of mold in the subsequent stages of plant growth. After we remove the seeds from the solution, put them on a thin layer of cotton wool, again soaked in hydrogen peroxide, cover it on top with a similar cotton layer, which is also saturated with peroxide.

Place the resulting "sandwich" in a plastic bag and hide it in the refrigerator, in the compartment for herbs and vegetables. We periodically inspect the seeds, change the cotton layers to new ones (also saturated with hydrogen peroxide).

After 40-50 days, the already germinated seed can be carefully transferred into peat tablets or small plastic cups with the appropriate soil mixture. Seedling cassettes are also fine.

Watering young shoots should be done as the soil dries up. For plants to develop correctly, they need to be provided with daily light for 10 hours. If you do everything right, then a couple of months after planting the seeds in tablets or cassettes, the first buds may appear on young roses. With the arrival of spring, new livestock are planted in open ground.

↑ to the content ↑ Reproduction of a climbing rose by cuttings

This is the easiest breeding method, almost always giving 100% positive results. For cutting cuttings, already faded or still flowering branches are suitable for you, which are taken from a rose in the very middle of summer, on the 10th of July.

The cut fragment should have at least two internodes, the place of the lower cut (45º angle) should be located close to the kidney. The upper cut (flat) is carried out at a considerable distance from the kidney.

Further, all the lower leaves are cut off from the cutting, and the upper ones are cut in half. A stalk is placed in a previously prepared container with sand or with a mixture of sand and soil, deepened by about 1-2 cm, covered with a glass jar on top and removed to a well-lit place.

Now you will need to periodically water the cutting (without removing the can) and make sure that it does not come into direct sunlight.

↑ to the content ↑ Reproduction of a climbing rose by layering

In the spring, from the shoots growing from below, we choose the most attractive one and make cuts on it, right under the buds. Next, we make out a small groove-bed about 10 cm wide, put a thin layer of humus on the bottom of the groove, sprinkle it on top with the same layer of soil. Now we carefully bend the shoot, put it in the groove and fix it with metal brackets. After that, we cover the shoot with soil, but leave the top looking out. Then, as usual, we take care of the bush, but do not forget to water and fertilize the place of the buried shoot. After a year, when spring comes, the layers can be cut off from the bush and planted in a separate place as a full-fledged plant.

↑ to the content ↑ Reproduction of roses by grafting (budding) on ​​rose hips

A climbing rose can be grafted onto a rose hip bush - this technique is often used by gardeners and summer residents. The best time for this operation is the last weeks of July or the first half of August. Before budding, the dog rose should be watered generously with water.

Directly on the root collar of the bush, an incision is made in the bark in the form of the letter "T", after which the edges of the bark are slightly pulled back. This kind of "pocket" holds a peephole cut from a climbing rose. The peephole must be separated from the rose along with the bark and a small piece of wood.

Next, we tightly press the peephole to the neck of the stock and also tightly wrap this place with a special film for budding (freely sold in flower shops). After all the manipulations, the rose hip bush is earthed up, and so that the soil rises above the grafting site by 5 cm (this is the minimum). After two to three weeks, the film can be slightly weakened, and with the arrival of a new spring, it is removed for good.

↑ Back to Contents ↑ Climbing rose does not bloom - why?

This can also happen, at least on flower forums, gardeners often ask each other a similar question. Experimentally, 7 factors were found out that affect the absence of flowers in climbing roses.

1. Diseases. The most dangerous diseases of climbing roses are bark cancer and ash (powdery mildew). Quite good results are given by preventive irrigation of the bushes with Bordeaux liquid (1%) at the stage of dormant buds. To reduce the risk of bark cancer, plants should be provided with potash fertilizers. At the beginning of autumn, you need to feed the climbing rose with potassium sulfate (potassium sulfate) and / or a nitrogen-phosphorus additive, for example, superphosphate. Careful inspection and timely removal of affected branches, as well as a competently carried out shelter of roses for the winter is a powerful shield against diseases that weaken the plant and can really cause the absence of flowers.
2. Wild growth. Multiple shoots can often be seen near the root zone of the climbing rose. Of course, they should be removed in a timely manner, because they are not of any use, they only suck vitality from the bush. If you ignore them and allow them to grow further, your rose will gradually run wild and, naturally, will stop giving color. You should remove wild growth as soon as it caught your eye.
3. The wrong shelter for the winter. A climbing rose needs careful shelter before the onset of cold weather. Correct wrapping of the bushes consists in creating an air cushion between the covering material and, in fact, the bush itself. Such an air gap will protect the plant from dampness during possible thaws, because dampness for a rose is just as destructive as low temperatures. Proper preparation for winter also consists in limiting watering, starting from the first weeks of September. A ban is also imposed on loosening the soil. From this time on, the rose should not be given nitrogen fertilizing, only potash is allowed.
4. Too many nitrogen supplements. Everything is simple here - nitrogen fertilizers contribute to the growth of the green mass of the plant, which, in turn, negatively affects the setting of buds.If you overdo it with nitrogen, the climbing rose may not bloom.
5. Inappropriate landing site. An incorrectly chosen place can cause not only a lack of flowers, the rose can simply die. Before choosing a site for planting a climbing rose, make sure that there will be no strong drafts and shade.
6. Illiterate pruning. Everything should be in moderation, if you start pruning too actively and capture a lot of young shoots, the rose simply will not be able to recover and, of course, will not form buds. Prune the plant correctly, remove old and thickening branches, pay attention to wild growth.
7. Unsuitable soil composition. The soil for growing climbing roses has already been mentioned above. The composition of the earth is an important factor, plus it must be fertile, loose, saturated with useful substances.

↑ back to content ↑ Climbing rose - diseases and pests

Prevention and control of disease or pest infestation is one of the aspects of climbing rose care. Spider mites, aphids, leafworms, thrips, rose sawfly - a list of the most active parasites of climbing roses.

Caterpillar of a rose-cut sawfly on a roseSpider mite rose

At the initial stage, aphids can be manually removed from the branches, after putting on garden gloves, but as soon as it feels like a full owner, you will need the help of chemicals. Insecticides "Sharpei", "Aktara", "Inta-Vir", as well as the good old "Karbofos" are guaranteed to help you cope with this problem.

If you want to try the so-called folk methods of struggle, then grate laundry soap (1 tablespoon) and dissolve it in 1 liter of water. Irrigate rose bushes with this solution for a week, then remove all affected fragments - it should help.

A spider mite loves heat and drought, a silvery coating on foliage is a sign of the presence of an intruder. Old methods of struggle with the help of thick tobacco infusion or wormwood broth give very good results. Contact ascaricide "Neoron" is one of the best means of protecting roses from spider mites. One ml of the drug is dissolved in a liter of water, after which the bushes are irrigated. Sometimes it is enough to treat roses twice with this preparation for the tick to give up its positions. Bio-insecticide "Fitoverm" also proved to be excellent in this matter.

According to the reviews of experienced gardeners, the drug "Aktara" works great against the rose sawfly. The preparations "Aktellik" and "Phosbecid" (15 ml per 10 liters of water) also show a good result, which extends not only to the sawfly, but also to other "lovers" of climbing roses.

In addition to all of the above, I would like to remind you of the spring and autumn spraying of roses with Bordeaux liquid - this is important.

Among the diseases of climbing roses, the most dangerous are: bacterial cancer, gray mold, powdery mildew, coniotirium (burned bark).

Powdery mildewBacterial cancer

There is no cure for some diseases (bacterial cancer), but taking prevention seriously will minimize the risk of the disease.

Disinfection of the root system in a solution of 3% copper sulfate (before planting), removal of suspicious fragments and rapid irrigation of wound sites with the same copper sulfate are the most often recommended preventive measures.

The defeat of the coniotirium can be detected in the spring, as soon as the protective cover is removed from the roses. In this case, you need to immediately cut off diseased branches (with the capture of healthy fragments) and burn them. Until the buds awaken, the plant can be treated with three percent iron sulfate, the ground around the bush must be watered too. The same Bordeaux liquid or the drug "Abiga-Peak" can also be involved in the case while the buds have not yet blossomed.

In principle, to combat other diseases of roses, the usual scheme works - the removal of the affected areas and their subsequent burning, abundant irrigation of the plant with a solution of ferrous sulfate (3%), copper sulfate (2%) or Bordeaux liquid (3%). Such spraying is often carried out in three stages (with a weekly interval), but sometimes, especially at an early stage, one treatment may be enough.

↑ to the content ↑ Climbing roses - photos and names of winter-hardy varieties

The dream of any gardener is that your favorite flowers delight the eyes with lush buds for as long as possible and endure wintering staunchly. It is simply unrealistic to mention all winter-hardy and long-blooming varieties of climbing roses, but I would like to highlight some of them, briefly describe their main qualities.

↑ back to contents ↑ Climbing rose "Iceberg"

It fully lives up to its name, its snow-white buds will bloom for a very long time (until autumn) and profusely. Repeated blooming is a distinctive feature of this rose, it grows rather quickly and in the shortest possible time can braid an arch or a wall of a building. The plant is unpretentious, cold-resistant, the aroma is weak.

Variety "Iceberg", photo:

↑ to contents ↑ Climbing rose "Lavinia"

It boasts cup-shaped flowers of a rich pink hue, undemanding to care, re-blooming, aroma with light Muscat notes. It grows up to 3 m in height, has good immunity to most rose diseases, blooms continuously until the first frost.

Variety "Lavinia", photo:

↑ back to content ↑ Variety "Polka"

It is characterized by undulating blooms, approximately five waves per summer. Terry buds, apricot shade, gradually turning into a creamy color. Loves sunlit places very much, has good disease resistance, can grow up to 3 m in height. This variety has powerful and spreading shoots with large thorns, weak aroma.

Photo of a climbing rose of the "Polka" variety:

↑ back to contents ↑ Climbing rose "Don Juan"

Luxurious double rose with large (12 cm in diameter) flowers of deep red color. It is an excellent option for decorating the walls of buildings and any vertical supports. It grows up to 3.5 m in height, loves the sun, but also blooms without problems in partial shade. These roses can be cut to make bouquets, they are very fragrant and keep fresh for a long time.

Variety "Don Juan", photo:

↑ back to content ↑ Sort "Flamentants"

This rose is considered one of the most attractive red climbing roses. Her buds are large (8 cm in diameter), double, multi-petal. Possesses increased frost resistance, powerful bushes can reach 2-3 m in height. With proper care, this variety can grow and bloom in one place for about 20 years. The aroma of the rose is very delicate, but not very pronounced.

Photo of roses "Flamentance":

↑ to contents ↑ Climbing rose "Handel"

The buds of this variety have a very interesting color - white-pink, with bright crimson edges and a slightly yellowish center. The buds are large, about 10 cm in diameter, the bush grows to 2.5-3 m in height. The rose is multi-blooming, disease resistance is average, one should beware of black spot and ash.

Variety "Handel", photo:

↑ back to content ↑ "Bobby James" variety

Small-flowered representative, but the most attractive in its category. Can reach 8 m in height, resistant to diseases, semi-double white flowers with a yellow center (about 4.5 cm in diameter), outwardly resemble cherry flowers. It has a pronounced musky aroma; during flowering, the branches are simply covered with buds, so that behind them you can hardly see the foliage. The buds themselves tend to open slowly over a period of about 10-12 days. A spectacular and incredibly luxurious variety

Photo of a rose variety "Bobby James":

↑ to contents ↑ Climbing rose "Golden Perfume"

A re-flowering variety whose flowers bloom slowly, to the delight of gardeners.Large buds (up to 10 cm in diameter) of this rose exude a very strong aroma that can be heard even from afar. Flowers of a rich bright yellow hue will adorn the bush until the arrival of the first frost. Shoots grow up to 2-3 m in height, foliage also looks very attractive - rich green, dense, creating a beautiful contrast with yellow flowers.

Variety "Golden Perfume", photo:

↑ back to content ↑ Variety "Parade"

One of the most winter-hardy re-flowering climbing roses, with large (10 cm in diameter) multi-petal buds of a juicy cherry shade or rich dark pink. Luxurious inflorescences are so large and heavy that the shoots literally bend from their weight. It blooms throughout the summer, blooms slowly, reaches 2-3.5 m in height, is resistant to precipitation.

Roses of the "Parade" variety, photo:

↑ back to contents ↑ Climbing rose "Schwannensee"

Another variety with increased cold resistance. The multi-petal buds of this rose have a classic shape, medium size (7-9 cm in diameter) and a very delicate color - white, with a creamy pink core. Schwannensee blooms until the very frost, slowly blooming and spreading a delicate refined aroma. The variety is hardy, multi-flowering, rain-resistant. The bush can reach 3 m in height.

Variety "Schwannensee", photo:

↑ back to content ↑ Sort "Casino"

This rose is suitable for cutting into a bouquet, has a bright fruity aroma, lemon-colored buds are most beautiful when loose. A multi-petal variety, the diameter of a double flower reaches 9-11 cm, its color is darker inside, the outer petals are paler. The bush grows up to 3-4 m in height, blooms profusely, luxuriantly, repeatedly throughout the summer.

Climbing rose of the "Casino" variety, photo:

Of course, a climbing rose will require an investment of time and effort from you, but you must admit that its luxurious beauty fully justifies such "sacrifices." Follow all the above recommendations, carefully consider the choice of a place of residence for a rose.

Do not plant it near bushes and trees with powerful roots, do not forget to feed it with appropriate fertilizers in time.

Provide her with reliable support, the types of which I will tell you about in the next article.

Let a climbing rose also settle on your site. Planting and care in the open field, the nuances of reproduction and transplanting, a rough idea of ​​individual varieties - you now know all this and can apply my advice in practice.

The following videos will successfully complement the article:

How to grow a climbing rose?

Any, even the most unsightly corner of the garden, can be decorated with climbing (curly) roses. They will create a romantic atmosphere, will delight you with flowering almost throughout the entire warm season. In order for these beautiful plants to fully reveal their potential, it is necessary to provide the appropriate conditions.

Every plant needs at least minimal maintenance. Such gorgeous beauties like climbing roses will need to be given special attention. Knowing all the nuances, following a series of simple steps, you will achieve long and abundant flowering.

Landing place

Climbing roses care and cultivation Where to plant a climbing rose photo

Illumination

Curly roses are light-requiring. With insufficient lighting, new shoots will develop poorly and will not bloom this season. Avoid direct sunlight during midday hours - their intense exposure can cause burns. Choose a place so that at this time the bushes are out of the zone of influence of the sun. It is good if the site is flooded with sunlight in the morning. Dew will quickly evaporate from the leaves, which will serve as protection against viral diseases.

Comfortable conditions

• The corners of buildings are not suitable for planting climbing roses - they do not tolerate drafts well.
• Do not plant in damp, waterlogged areas.
• Avoid areas where roses used to grow.
• So that moisture does not stagnate in the soil, it is better to make a bed with a slope. The rhizome goes deep into the soil by about 2 m: with constantly high humidity, make high beds.

Climbing roses need support. They are often planted along the walls of buildings. To prevent the root system from being depleted, you should retreat from the wall at least 60 cm. Other possible supports: fence, mesh, pergola, arch, special posts, cones.

Site preparation

Fertile loamy soil with good drainage is ideal for growing climbing roses. Heavy loams and pure sand are contraindicated. Clay soil should be diluted with sand, and clay should be added to sandy soil. A small amount of garden lime is recommended. Also, to increase the fertility of the soil for digging the site, they make: humus, phosphorus fertilizers, special soil bacteria (phosphorobacterin).

Prepare the site a couple of months before planting. It should be dug up several times, add the appropriate additives.

When is it better to plant climbing roses: spring or autumn?

How to plant a climbing rose in spring photo

For regions with a temperate climate, autumn planting is preferable (late September-early October). Within two weeks, they will already give roots and have time to get stronger before the onset of cold weather. In the spring, the rhizome and aerial part will grow. The bush will gain strength, become lush, will delight with flowering.

In the northern regions, planting climbing roses should be done in the spring, because when they are planted in the fall, they will not have time to take root and may die in winter.

When planting in spring, climbing roses lag behind in the pace of development by about half a month, and require increased attention. It is necessary to cut the seedlings into 3 buds before planting.

Preparing seedlings for planting

Choose healthy seedlings. The trunk should be whitish-green, not brown or gray.

Bushes from the nursery need preliminary preparation before planting:

• Soak the seedlings in water for a day.
• Then completely cut off the diseased and damaged roots, shorten the healthy ones by about 15 cm.
• Remove the broken branches, the rest should be shortened by 15-20 cm.
• Treat the cut sites with a fungicide.
• Soak in a growth stimulant solution.

Thanks to these measures, the bushes will successfully root, will grow actively, and will give a lush flowering.

If the rose seedlings are already pruned (sold in a package), you do not need to prune them additionally.

Planting a climbing rose in the ground

Planting climbing roses outdoors is actually the simplest operation that even a beginner in gardening can perform.

Planting pit preparation

Sufficient space is required for the full development of the root system. Make the holes free, the optimal depth will be 60-65 cm. When planting, keep a distance of at least 1 meter between individual plants.

Add the nutrient mixture to each planting hole (peat compost is perfect).

How to properly plant a climbing rose

• Spread the roots of the seedling loosely in the hole.
• Cover the voids between the roots with soil.
• Pour about 10 liters of warm water under each bush.
• Fill the remaining space with soil.
• Deepen the root collar into the soil by 10-12 cm. This will additionally protect the seedling from frost.

Supports for climbing roses photo

The support installed for the subsequent fastening of the bush should not interfere with the normal development of the root system. For portable support, special lattices, tripods, trellises are used.

How to make a support with your own hands

You can easily make tripods yourself: knock down wooden beams about 2.5-3 m long.Arches look spectacular as a support. If you plant 2 bushes on both sides, by the end of the second year, curly lashes with the most delicate inflorescences will completely entwine them.

How to care for climbing roses outdoors

Watering

The delightful shrubs are drought tolerant.On the contrary, an excess of moisture leads to a depressed appearance, provokes the emergence of viral diseases. It is enough to water once a week, adding a small amount of water. It must be warm.

Top dressing

Young plants in the first year of growth do not need additional feeding - they have enough nutrients from the soil fertilized during planting.

• Start feeding from the second year. It is better to do this in the spring, since it is believed that fertilizing in summer and autumn prolongs the growing season, and green shoots are frozen over in winter. It is optimal to complete fertilization in the first half of August.
• Roses respond gratefully to organics. You can use mullein infusion, slurry, or special fertilizer for roses.
• From the third year of growth, you can use mineral fertilizers. In the spring, under each bush, apply 100-120 g of mineral complex fertilizer. Carry out the next top dressing at the end of flowering. Given the predisposition to organic matter, in the fall, apply 1 kg of compost per 1 m² for digging row spacings.

How to cut a climbing rose: video and photo

Climbing (curly) roses are conventionally divided into 4 varieties that require appropriate pruning. For any variety, the first pruning must be done immediately after planting. Leave the shoots about 30 cm long. In the future, take into account the characteristics of each.

Climbing roses that bloom on last year's stems

How to cut and tie climbing roses photo

From the second year of growth, to form a beautiful bush, new stems are cut as needed. In the fall, old shoots that have bloomed this year should be cut off. For the skeleton, leave 1-2 last year's shoots. Shorten the side shoots on them to 10 cm from the base (by 2-3 buds).

Climbing roses that form a small number of new shoots

How to trim climbing roses photo

Most of the growths appear on old stems. Only weak or diseased branches need pruning; faded buds are also cut into two buds. Old stems are completely cut out as new ones appear.

Climbing roses that bloom on the shoots of the current year

How to properly crop a climbing rose photo

Shorten dead shoots by 2-3 buds. Weak, diseased branches must be removed completely.

Climbing roses with a pyramidal crown, giving flowering on the growth of the current year

How to cut climbing roses correctly photo

They differ from the previous group by moderate growth rates. Faded shoots are cut in the same way. In addition, to maintain the symmetry of the bush, you should cut out several main shoots that are out of sight.

How to tie a climbing rose

Support for a climbing rose do it yourself photo

Pruning stimulates the growth of new branches - they should be guided (tied up), giving the chosen shape to your bush. It is undesirable for all the lashes to be horizontal (they were directed only upward). In this case, the buds will appear only at the tops.

• To make the bush bloom magnificently, use any garter method.
• Fan the stems, leaving the side shoots untied. They will stretch freely up and to the sides.
• You can arrange the main shoots horizontally by tying them to a support. New side branches will rush upward, creating a blooming cloud.
• Guide the shoots around the support and tie in a spiral if you want the lashes to wrap around a post or arch.

Shelter climbing roses for the winter

Preparing bushes for wintering

Unfortunately, climbing roses cannot boast of high frost resistance. Careful work will be required to preserve the bushes in the winter.

At the beginning of autumn, reduce watering, stop loosening the soil and cutting off the faded buds so as not to stimulate growth. It is recommended to apply the Osennee granular fertilizer. At the end of September, carefully remove the shoots from the supports - they should bend to the ground under their own weight.Prune to leave 11-12 healthy and strong shoots.

Pruning

Herbaceous unripe shoots also need to be cut off - treat the cuts with brilliant green. Tear off the lower leaves completely together with the petioles. After a day, dry sand should be poured into the middle of the bush (1 bucket is enough for young bushes, 2-3 for adults). Leave it on for a couple of days. Then remove all the remaining leaves, process the bush with a 3% solution of ferrous sulfate.

Removal from supports and shelter

• Perform all work in dry weather.
• In regions with mild winters, you can not remove from the support - cover the bushes with spruce branches, then wrap with foil.
• If the winters in your region are harsh, be sure to remove the branches from the supports. Gather the shoots into a bunch and tie. As the air temperature drops to -5 ° C, gently bend them to the ground, secure with pegs or brackets. Cover with spruce branches, then wrap with thick foil or agrofibre.

In the spring, it is very important to remove the shelter in a timely manner. Without access to fresh air and in a humid environment, the bushes can suffocate and start to hurt. In a stable air temperature of -3 ° C, open the shelter at the ends until the soil begins to thaw under the bush. Then you can remove the upper shelter, leave the spruce branches until the frost stops.

Diseases and pests

If you do not follow the agricultural technique of planting, it is wrong to care for the bushes, diseases may occur.

If diseases occur, all affected areas must be removed and burned so as not to provoke infection of other plants.

• Black spot is manifested by brown and black spots with a yellow rim, covering leaves, young shoots. Remove damaged parts, then feed with potassium and phosphate.
• When affected by powdery mildew, a whitish bloom can be found on the stems and leaves, the buds stop blooming. Cut out the affected areas. Treat the bush with a solution of iron and copper sulfate.
• The bumps and growths on the roots are bacterial cancer. The plant dries up and may die. Cut out the affected roots, treat the remaining ones with a solution of copper sulfate.

Possible pests: spider mites, aphids, scale insects, rose sawfly, leafworm. Bushes must be treated with a fungicidal agent.

How to get rid of aphids on roses, look at the video:

Climbing roses in landscape design photo:

Climbing roses in landscape design photo

Climbing roses in the country photo

Climbing roses in the garden photo

Climbing roses in the design of the garden photo

Climbing roses on the arch

Climbing roses on the facade of buildings photo

Climbing roses in the gazebo photo

Climbing roses in the recreation area photo

Climbing roses on the canopy in front of the house photo

Climbing roses in the design of the park photo

Climbing roses in the park photo

Climbing roses on the fence photo

Climbing roses in the palisade photo

Climbing rose in the design of the yard photo

Climbing roses in the design of the yard photo

Climbing roses are roses with long, creeping or drooping shoots, for the growth of which support is absolutely necessary. Among them there are roses that bloom once a year, as well as remontant ones, that is, they bloom many times.

Description of climbing roses

Climbing roses have shoots that are several meters long. The flowers are white, pink, red, yellow from 2.5 to 9 cm, from simple to semi-double, odorless, collected in inflorescences. Long-lasting flowering begins in June.

When describing climbing roses, it should be noted that they occupy one of the leading places in vertical gardening, combine well with small architectural forms, are indispensable for creating decorative columns, pyramids, arches, trellises, green decoration of the walls of buildings, balconies, gazebos.

There are many varieties of wicker roses, the description of which will take a lot of time and space. However, according to the nature of growth, these roses can be conditionally divided into three groups:

• Curly - from 5 m to 15 m in height.
• Climbing heights - from 3 m to 5 m.
• Semi-plaited in height - from 1.5 m - 3 m.

The formation of shoots in climbing roses is continuous, due to which the phases of flowering and budding are very extended. The total flowering time is from 30 to 170 days. Among the re-blooming roses, a group of large-flowered, or Climings, stands out for decorativeness.

Growing climbing roses

    Choosing a place for planting and growing. For cultivation, you need to choose sunny and ventilated places. Roses are light-loving plants, so it is best to plant them on the walls and supports of the southern and southwestern exposure. Preference should still be given to the southern exposure; good illumination helps the growth to ripen, which will bloom next year.

Groundwater should be no higher than 70-100 cm, optimally 100-150 cm. In swampy, damp places prone to flooding, it will not work to grow these flowers.

    When choosing a planting site, be sure to think about how you will lay the plants on the ground for shelter for the winter. Climbing roses grow to a height of more than 2.5 m. When laid for the winter, they should not "cover" other plants that do not require shelter.

    What kind of soil should be. To grow climbing roses, a fertile, loose, moderately moist soil with a fertile layer of at least 30 cm is required.And so, in the place of the future rose garden, it is necessary to prepare the soil: for this purpose it is better to use rotted manure (cow), if the soil is too heavy, you need to add sand, peat, which will give the soil looseness.

    Selection of seedlings. The seedling should have 2-3 well-ripened lignified shoots with green intact bark and a developed root system with many thin roots (lobe). The root collar of a seedling aged 1-2 years looks like a slight thickening separating the wild stock and the stem of the cultivated plant.

Planting climbing roses

    When is the best time to plant roses. In central Russia, it is preferable to plant roses in the fall from September to the end of October, or in early spring from mid-April to the end of May. In autumn, plants must be planted 2 cm deeper than in spring (total depth 5 cm) so that the shoots of the planted roses do not dry out and do not suffer from the approaching cold weather, they are spudded with earth with sand to a height of 20-25 cm. harbor for the winter.

    Preparing for landing. Seedlings with an open root system are soaked in water a day before planting. Leaves are removed from the shoots and unripe and broken shoots are cut out with a sharp secateurs. The aerial part is shortened to 30 cm, long roots are also cut off - up to 30 cm, cutting out rotten roots to a healthy place. The buds located below the vaccination site are removed - wild growth will develop from them. The seedlings are disinfected by dipping copper sulfate in 3%.

    Landing. Planting pits are prepared with a size of 50 × 50 cm, the distance between plants should be at least 2 - 3 meters. When planting, do not bend the roots of the plants too much. They are supposed to be freely spread out in the hole so that they go to the bottom, without bending upwards, while holding the seedlings at such a height that the grafting site is about 10 cm below the soil surface. (Other varieties of roses are deepened 5 cm when planting, but climbing roses are planted deeper.)

Then the hole is filled with earth two-thirds of the depth, it is compacted so that it fits properly to the roots and the plant is watered. Thorough watering in the spring is especially important. Only after the water is absorbed, the pit is filled up with earth, and the seedling is spud to a height of at least 20 cm.

Before the onset of frost, the hilling level is raised. In the spring, this sprinkled earth will protect the plant from the scorching rays of the sun and drying winds. For greater reliability, the seedling can be slightly shaded with needles. In dry weather, it is watered every 5-6 days. Three weeks after the spring planting, the earth is carefully raked away from the bush.It is advisable to do this on a cloudy day, when there is no danger of a sharp drop in temperature at night.

In early April, autumn roses are opened and treated in the same way. At the same time, it is necessary to ensure that the most sensitive spot of the whole plant, the grafting site, remains 10 cm below ground level. In the spring new shoots will grow over it.

If the climbing rose grows against the wall, then the distance to it should not be less than 50 cm. The plant is brought up to the wall with an inclined planting at an appropriate angle. If the rose was grown against the wall itself, it would constantly suffer from a lack of moisture.

For late spring planting in dry, warm weather, it is helpful to cover the soil with a layer of wet peat or any other mulch. After planting, the shoots are cut into 3 - 5 buds.

Climbing rose care

    Caring for climbing roses consists in proper watering, timely feeding, pruning, combating diseases and pests, as well as loosening and mulching the soil. In addition, the plants must be provided with beautiful supports and covered for the winter.

In response to such care and careful care, these beauties will certainly thank you with magnificent flowering throughout most of the summer.

    How to water. Good plant maintenance is, first of all, proper watering. Roses consume a lot of water during the growing season. In the absence of precipitation from the moment the buds appear, as well as after pruning, the plants are watered every 10-12 days.

When watering, the soil must be soaked so that moisture penetrates deeper than the roots (1-2 buckets per plant). On the 2-3rd day after watering (or rain), the soil around the plant must be loosened to a depth of 5-6 cm, which contributes to the preservation of moisture in the soil and better air access to the roots. Loosening can be replaced by soil mulching.

The lack of moisture in the soil affects the growth of roses, and the concentration of salts from the substrate also increases. But it must be remembered that too frequent watering with a hose raises the humidity of the air, and this contributes to the spread of fungal diseases.

    Top dressing. To ensure proper plant care, it is imperative to fertilize the soil. Climbing roses need regular feeding more than others. Throughout the summer, they need to be fed after 10 - 20 days, alternating nitrogen fertilizers with full, complex ones. Fertilizers can be either dry or liquid.

First of all, in the spring, liquid fertilizing is carried out with full mineral fertilizer (according to the instructions). After 10 - 20 days, feed the plants with organic matter (1 bucket of mullein for 5 buckets of water + 3 kg. Ash) 1 liter of this mixture is diluted in a bucket of water and the roses are watered at the root. Such an operation will provide an abundant start of flowering with brightly colored flowers.

Such feeding, alternating among themselves, should be done until mid-summer. From mid-July, they stop feeding with nitrogen fertilizers and switch to phosphorus and potash fertilizers, so that the bush has already started preparing for winter.

    For any feeding, the dosage must be strictly observed! With an overabundance of any chemical elements, the condition of the roses may deteriorate. Such care will only harm the plants.

Pruning climbing roses

Pruning is very important in caring for wicker roses.

The main purpose of pruning is to form a crown, obtain abundant and long-lasting flowering, and keep plants in a healthy state.

With good care, roses grow long shoots during the summer period, up to 2-3.5 m. They are sheltered for the winter. In the spring of next year, only the frozen and podoprevshie shoots and the ends of the shoots are pruned on a strong external bud.

In the future, the pruning of climbing roses is carried out, depending on how these roses bloom, once or twice. These groups of roses differ significantly in the nature of flowering and shoots.

The former form flowering branches on last year's shoots.They do not bloom again. In replacement of faded shoots, the so-called basic (basal), these roses form from 3 to 10 shoots of restoration (replacement), which will bloom for the next season. In this case, the basal shoots after flowering are cut to the base, like in raspberries. Thus, bushes of single-flowering climbing roses should only consist of 3-5 annual and 3-5 biennial flowering shoots.

If climbing roses belong to the group of re-flowering, then flowering branches of different orders (from 2 to 5) are formed on the main shoots within three years, the flowering of such shoots weakens by the fifth year. Therefore, the main shoots are cut after the fourth year to the base. If many new strong recovery shoots are formed at the base of these shoots (which usually happens when the roses are well tended), then the main shoots are cut out as in the first group.

For bushes with repeated flowering, it is sufficient to have 1 to 3 annual recovery shoots and 3 to 7 flowering main shoots. Re-blooming roses are recommended to be pruned in early spring. The point of pruning is to leave a limited number of the strongest, youngest and longest branches on the bush. If the lashes are too long compared to the support, they must be trimmed.

It is important to remember that most climbing roses bloom on overwintered shoots, which must be preserved for their entire length, only the very tops with underdeveloped buds should be removed. Therefore, in the fall, such roses should not be pruned, the main pruning is carried out in early spring.

Proper pruning and careful maintenance can ensure almost continuous flowering of roses in your garden throughout the growing season.

    Reproduction of climbing roses

    Climbing roses reproduce well with summer and winter cuttings. The easiest way is green cuttings, most climbing roses give almost 100% rooting. Green cuttings work best in June, when they first bloom.

The cuttings are planted in the substrate to a depth of 1 - 1.5 cm.

Cuttings are cut from flowering or fading shoots with 2 - 3 internodes. The lower end is made oblique (at an angle of 45 °) directly under the kidney, and the upper end is made straight away from the kidney. The lower leaves are completely removed, and the rest are cut in half. The cuttings are planted in a substrate (in a mixture of earth and sand or in clean sand) in a pot, box or directly into the ground to a depth of 0.5-1 cm. The cuttings are covered with a glass jar or film and shaded from the sun. Watering is carried out without removing the film.

Good results are obtained by cuttings in early spring. During spring pruning, there are many cut shoots that can be successfully rooted. Planting and caring for cuttings is carried out according to the above method.

Shelter climbing roses for the winter

The shelter of these roses for the winter has its own characteristics. If, to shelter roses of other varieties, it is enough to sprinkle the bush with earth (it is important to keep shoots 10 - 15 cm high there), then in weaving roses it is necessary to keep the shoots - the whips completely.

  Caring for roses in the fall. Preparation of roses for winter begins long before the onset of frost. Already at the end of August, it is necessary to stop watering and loosening the soil. At this time, it is no longer possible to feed the plants with nitrogen, but it is necessary to make potassium fertilizers to strengthen the tissue of the shoots.

Shelter roses for the winter can take several days.

Be prepared for the fact that the climbing rose shelter for the winter can stretch for several days, or even a whole week. A rose with thick, powerful shoots is unlikely to be laid on the ground in one day. This should be done at a positive temperature; in frost, the stems become brittle and break easily. In no case try to press each shoot separately to the ground. This can only be done by tying the entire bush into a bundle or two bundles and then spreading them in different directions.

If, when you tilt the bush, you feel that the stems may break, stop tilting and fix the bush in this position. Let him stand like this for a day or two, and then continue until you press him to the ground.

It is necessary to cover the rose pinned to the ground with the onset of frost. Sometimes it has to be done even in the snow. Lutrasil cover is sufficient in the southern regions. Do not forget to cover only the base of the bush with sand or earth. If your winters are cold, cover the bush with spruce branches and also cover it in several layers with covering material or roofing material.

Supports for climbing roses

The possibilities to beautifully decorate your garden with climbing roses are quite diverse: you can often see beautiful gazebos and terraces, balconies, grottoes and pavilions, arches and pergolas decorated with roses, and even how these plants transform the faceless walls of buildings, and it is not necessary to speak.

Climbing roses can beautify your home like no other flowering plant. One rose climbing up is enough to transform a nondescript stone wall or to emphasize the originality of the facade, to add romance to the previously ordinary entrance to the house.

The support can be either wooden or metal.

On a large tree, climbing roses appear in all their magnificent splendor.

The freestanding lattices, as independent garden structures, are supported by pillars dug into the ground.

Roses at such supports are planted at a distance of about 30 cm from the trellis and abundantly flowering varieties are chosen.

Simple and at the same time original support from metal rods.

Support grids can be made from materials at hand: wooden planks, metal bars, and even thick fishing line.

You may be interested in:

1. How to properly plant and care for ground cover roses
2. All the intricacies of caring for floribunda roses
3. What to do if roses are sick
4. Roses can also be grown from seeds
5. Another 20 interesting articles about roses can be read here

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Climbing or climbing roses have proven themselves well as a green decor for a personal plot. With the help of them, arches, gazebos, fences, walls are decorated, you just have to direct the growth of the plant in the right direction. This article tells you how to plant a climbing rose, care for it and prepare a beauty for winter.

Quick reference

There are the following types of climbing roses:

1. Climber,
2. Climbing.

Climbing rose rambler variety "Bobby James"

The curly roses of the Rambler group long from 1.5 to 5 m watts with sufficient flexibility, which spread along the ground or rise, forming an arc. Stems of juicy green color are studded with hook-shaped thorns. Small flowers with a diameter of 2 to 2.5 cm with a weak aroma are collected in inflorescences. The flowering time is in the first half of summer. Many buds bloom during the month. The shoots that have successfully survived the winter are completely covered with flowers. Leathery shiny leaves are small in size. The main group of varieties belonging to this species stably tolerates winter under cover.

Climbing rose cultivar City of York

Climbing shoots Climber have a length of up to 4 meters. Small inflorescences form profusely blooming and rather large flowers with a diameter of 4 cm. The main varieties of this type of roses bloom again. They are able to withstand winter conditions.

Climbing varieties have large (up to 11 cm) single flowers or flowers combined into small inflorescences. We have these large-flowered varieties suitable for cultivation only in the southern regions, where there are no harsh winters.In the European part of Russia, there is a high probability of their disease with stem cancer.

Where to plant

In the photo climbing rose variety "Polka"

It is preferable to plant climbing roses in groups, without mixing with other flowers. The planting site should be well lit and ventilated, therefore, it is better to grow a garden beauty on the southern side of the site in light shade. Prolonged exposure to direct sunlight adversely affects the delicate plant, petals and leaves may dry out. It is not recommended to plant a climbing rose at the corners of objects, where there are often drafts that it does not like.

It is also worth making sure that there is no high groundwater level in the selected area. As the root develops, it can reach a depth of two meters and a meeting with a water source will have a detrimental effect on the plant as a whole. This can be avoided by placing a flat boulder on the bottom of the 1 m depression prepared for planting. When the powerful rose root reaches the stone barrier, its growth will change direction and continue to the sides.

If you choose the planting site correctly, the "queen" will thank you with a lush bright flowering.

Boarding time

The seedling type determines the time for soil transfer.

Planting climbing roses in autumn (mid-September to mid-October) is usually used for self-rooted climbing roses with open roots.

The vaccinated are planted in the spring (in late April and early May). Transplanting seedlings from containers can be started in spring and carried out until autumn.

Soil selection

You must be very careful with the choice of soil. Loams and fertile soils with good moisture and water permeability are suitable.

Landing

Planting a climbing rose against the wall

When planting, it is advisable to maintain a distance of at least 35-40 cm from the planting object.

To plant a climbing rose bush, a lot of space is not required. Before planting a climbing rose, you need to prepare a recess. Its size 50x50x100 cm will be enough. The distance between the pits should be from 1 to 2 meters, between the rows - 1-1.5 meters. A dry hole is watered a day before planting and manure is applied in an amount of at least half a bucket in each recess.

Each seedling is examined before planting. Remove damaged areas of the rhizome. We disinfect the sections with charcoal.

When planting in autumn, the bushes are cut by 20-30 cm. The cut zones are treated with garden pitch.

Video "Planting a climbing rose"

Curly rose care

Growing roses require proper care after planting:

1. Produce moderate watering 3-4 times a month. The plant will survive drought well enough, but will react poorly to excess moisture.
2. It is necessary to regularly loosen the root zone. After winter, the frozen ground is loosened to a depth of 25 cm with a pitchfork or cultivator. The plant, which was sick last season, is harrowed with a turn of the soil so that wintering pests do not remain in the soil.
3. In the spring, the soil is mulched to enrich it with nutrients. The composition of the mulch may include: humus, compost or humus.
4. Fertilizing the crop will not be required for a year after planting. Then, after the bushes have faded, the soil should be fertilized with a composition with potassium salts. Wood ash infusion is also suitable. The next spring, in the phase of active growth of the plant, it must be fed at least 5 times. You can use manure, any organic fertilizing or mineral composition, or combine them.

Wintering

It is necessary to prepare the garden beauty for the onset of cold weather in advance. By the end of summer, the number of watering and loosening is reduced. Fertilizers containing nitrogen are excluded. In September, the rose watchers are removed from the supports so that they adapt to the horizontal orientation. Cut off damaged shoots, free them from foliage. After that, they are processed with a 3% solution of ferrous sulfate.

When it gets colder to -5ºC and the plant is hardened, it can be covered.This day should be dry weather. The stems are tied with twine and fixed with metal hooks to the ground. Dry foliage is laid under the shoots. Then the plant is covered with a suitable material: roofing material, spruce branches, a wooden box, etc.

For a group of roses, it will be better if you "wrap" them together, creating a common crate for them. Thus, the volume of dry air under the "winter shelter" increases, which helps the bushes to winter comfortably.

In April, the "clothes" from climbing roses are not removed all at once, since the plant must first be allowed to get used to the sunlight. The soil around the roses is loosened, fresh earth or humus is added. After drying, the plant is examined, the affected stems are cut off, slightly capturing a healthy area, they are treated with a 15% solution of copper sulfate. Then, in a horizontal position, the stems are fixed to the support. This arrangement prevents the formation of a large number of replacement shoots and promotes uniform flowering of the main stem. If you carry out a vertical garter of wattle, many vegetative shoots will appear, and only the upper parts of the stems will bloom.

Video "Shelter for the winter of a climbing rose"

Pruning

A year after planting, the plant can be pruned, giving it the necessary configuration. The variety of roses determines the pruning method.

1. Roses that bloom once have buds on last year's main stems. These shoots will no longer bloom next summer. The buds will bloom on replacement shoots. Thus, after the main shoots have faded, they are cut off, and the replacement ones are left.
2. On the main shoots of roses, with repeated flowering, buds are formed within three or four years. These stems are to be cut in the fourth year. If the rose has released a large number of replacing young shoots over the summer, then the main stems can be cut out earlier.

Reproduction

You can propagate a climbing rose by cuttings and layering.

The propagation procedure by cutting includes the following steps:

1. Choose a suitable stalk. For grafting, a green fading stem is used, on which there are 2-3 internodes and at least 4 buds. An overwintered stem with dormant buds is also suitable.
2. Cut the stalk at 45 degrees, capturing the kidney. The distance from the bud to the end of the cutting should be large enough.
3. Leaves are removed from the bottom, in the center and at the top - they are pruned.
4. Plant the cutting 1 cm in a container with a mixture of earth and sand.
5. Cover with a glass cover or polyethylene film. Provide regular watering and loosening. Airing the seedling is not required.

Reproduction of roses by layering is carried out in the spring.

A strong stem is chosen and pressed against the soil, securing and sprinkling a section of the trunk with earth. After a year, the young seedling is separated from the mother plant, planted independently.

Diseases and pests

Climbing roses are susceptible to the following diseases:

• powdery mildew.

Cause: heatwave.

Signs: whitish spots that increase the area of ​​distribution, the rose stops growing and blooming.

Treatment: twice the culture is treated with Bordeaux liquid.

• bark cancer.

Cause: hypothermia.

Signs: Small dark brown spots develop on stems. Gradually they turn black, the shoot becomes completely affected.

Treatment: diseased areas are removed and burned.

Prophylaxis: from time to time, the bush is covered with polyethylene and nitrogen-containing fertilizers are not used in the fall.

For more information read Diseases of garden roses and their treatment

Even minor negative changes in the appearance of the bushes should alert you. Most likely, aphids or spider mites have started in them. The first thing to do is to carefully check the bush. With a slight spread of insects, the plant is treated twice with chilled decoction of nettle or horsetail. It was not possible to get rid of the pests, then we resort to insecticides.

To prevent the queen of the garden from being attacked by leaf-eating caterpillars in May, it is necessary to spray her with insecticide, for example, "FITOVERM", "FUFANON". This must be done very carefully. When spraying, it is important not to touch nearby growing fruit trees and shrubs. For the duration of the procedure, it is better to protect them, having previously covered them with a strong plastic wrap.

Read more about Pests of garden roses and methods of dealing with them.

So, in order for curly roses to bloom actively, and every year to fascinate with their unsurpassed charm, it is necessary to provide these capricious beauties with thorough care.