Autumn planting of roses with an open root system in siberia

It is possible to grow roses both in the south of Russia and in the conditions of Siberia and the Urals, the main thing in this matter is a serious approach.

First of all, you need to decide on what

which roses are most suitable for the northern regions , grafted or rooted. I recommend grafted roses for growing roses in Siberia and the Urals, they, as a rule, differ from rooted ones, increased resistance to diseases and high resistance to frost. Rosehip, which is grafted with roses, has great endurance inherent in it by nature. Plus, grafted rose seedlings take root much faster than self-rooted ones, which in the cold conditions of Siberia and the Urals is of great importance for growing roses. A grafted rose seedling, if planted correctly (you can read more about planting roses

here ), takes root from 15 to 30 days and annually will grow self-rooted roots on the stems, while the self-rooted stalk acquires a full-fledged root system in about 3-5 years, and during this time the rose will be vulnerable to disease.

Particular attention should also be paid to the selection of rose varieties most suitable for growing in Siberia. A large number of varieties of park rosesandfloribunda are not only less picky about caring for them, but also have greater frost resistance. But hybrid tea varieties winter worse, in the conditions of harsh Siberia it is advisable to keep them in the basement in winter.Climbing roses, with good shelter, are quite capable of overwintering in Siberia, but their cultivation is recommended for more experienced rose lovers, since the condition for their flowering is proper care and pruning (in more detail aboutpruning roses).

Where to plant roses.

To prevent the roses from dying, they must be properly planted. In cold climates, in the regions of Siberia and the Urals, it is especially important to choose the best place for planting. This must necessarily be the most illuminated place during the daytime. Do not plant near walls, fences, in places where free circulation of fresh air and warming up by the sun's rays will be difficult, as well as places where the depth of groundwater is less than 1 meter. An important factor when choosing a landing site, especially for Siberia, is the choice of the place most protected from cold winds. The general principles of planting roses should be taken into account, they are described in a special article (more details ...).

How and when to plant roses in Siberia and the Urals so that they do not die.

Planting roses in Siberia and the Urals is different from planting inmiddle zone of Russia... When planting roses in open ground in the northern regions, it is recommendeddeepening the vaccination site by 5-7 cm, but since in Siberia some varieties do not tolerate winter frosts well, I recommend planting seedlings in special plastic containers. In the fall, such roses could be dug out without damaging the root system, and brought along with the container to a special room for further preservation during the winter.

Planting roses in Siberia can be done both in spring and autumn.In spring, roses are planted when the soil has warmed up to 8-10 degrees, since grafted roses are more frost-resistant and the growing process begins earlier than others, the most optimal time for this is usually the end of April - beginning of May.Before planting a rose seedling with an open root system, it is necessary to carefully remove the packaging from the root, remove the paraffin or wax from the stems of the seedling, cut off the damaged and thinned parts of the roots of roses and soak them to replenish with moisture.In Siberia and the Urals, before planting roses, it is recommended to soak the roots for several hours in root formation stimulants, so the seedling will take root better. If the rose seedlings were purchased ahead of time for planting, they can be stored in the basement, or in the refrigerator, in the vegetable section.

When planting roses in autumn in Siberia it is necessary to take into account the time of the onset of cold weather and start preparing the seedlings in advance. By the onset of winter, roses should harden and ripen in order to resist infection by differentdiseases. It is very important not to rush to boarding.... They say that the best time for planting for Siberia is July-August. This opinion is deeply mistaken, since a rose transplanted early begins to grow and draws strength from the roots. In Siberia, there is not enough time for young shoots to ripen before autumn, and roses leave for the winter weakened. It is best to take into account the temperature and condition of the seedling when planting roses in Siberia in the fall. A rose seedling should be in the extinction stage and it is recommended to plant it when the temperature during the day has become about 4 degrees. In colder temperatures, it is best to dig in the roses for planting in the spring, or place them in a suitable storage location.

How to keep rose seedlings in winter, before and after planting.

In spring or autumn, seedlings purchased at a time when planting is no longer possible, the seedlings can be saved until a more appropriate moment. The seedlings are stored in a variety of ways.If the seedlings were purchased with an open root system, with densely packed roots and wax (paraffin) coated stems, they can be in this formdown into the basement. In order to prevent the seedlings from dying, it is enough to slightly open the package of roots and add a little water there. Such a procedure will replenish the moisture lost over time in the roots.

Ifthe seedlings were obtained in the spring and there were only a few days left before planting, then you can carefully unpack the seedlings, being careful not to damage the roots, anddig them into the ground in a basin or bucket,tilted 45 degrees... There they can safely survive the time before landing.

It's another matter to keep the roses already planted. In Siberia, this is a painstaking procedure, everything must be done gradually as the temperature decreases. In winter conditions in Siberia, the best material for sheltering roses and all plants in general is snow, but there is one problem. In some regions of Siberia there is enough snow, and in some it is not enough. And how can you save a rose before it falls out? This is where the hilling method comes to the rescue.Firstly, rose seedlings should be sprinkled with copper sulfate as a preventive measure to avoidinfection with diseases. Secondly, it is necessary to cut the roses under a shelter and well spud the bush with earth about 25-30 cm in height and cover it with spruce branches.I highly do not recommend using sawdust, although many magazines praise this method, sawdust during temperature changescan resist, which will affect the roses destructively. The covered rose bush is covered with spruce branches, then with roofing felt (to avoid condensation on days of temperature changes) and covered with a film on top to protect it from getting wet with precipitation. All this shelter in the harsh Siberia is covered with a large snowdrift, then you can not worry about the seedlings.

To preserve climbing roses in Siberia they are covered, like the rest of the roses, after removing the long stems and fixing them to the ground with hooks. For thiscut off old stems, which are already 2-3 years old, they lose their former flexibility from old age, the rest of the stems are not cut off. Next, you need to slightly dig in the climbing rose at the root and, bending, lay the stems on the previously prepared spruce branches, fasten with hooks to the ground and spud. The stems of a waving rose covered with earth are additionally covered with spruce branches, roofing felt, a film and covered with snowdrifts on top.Climbing roses, like park roses, are usually more frost-resistant, therefore, to preserve them for the winter, they can not be dug out. 

Another way to preserve a rose seedling in winter in Siberia and the Urals is to cover it with a box. A properly covered bush will calmly overwinter, and airing before the onset of constant severe frosts will be easy. To do this, the trimmed seedling is covered with a suitable size cardboard box, covering material is laid on top, which can now be purchased in specialized stores or large supermarkets. And all this is covered with plastic wrap on top to avoid the box from getting wet due to precipitation. Instead of a box, you can use a specially made frame or installed arcs. Well, when it snows, the large snowdrifts, typical for Siberia, reliably protect the seedlings from frost. It is easy to ventilate such a shelter during thaw days by lifting it from the edge.

Opening roses in Siberia and the Urals after winter.

But it is not enough to properly and reliably cover roses for the winter. In winter conditions in the Urals and Siberia, it is important to remove the shelter correctly. I recommend doing the first steps in opening roses after winter in March. Many rose lovers believe that the snow that saved roses in winter will just as reliably continue to protect the bushes in the spring.But it should be remembered that powerful Siberian snowdrifts can do great harm in the spring. It is necessary to start removing the snowdrift on time, because when the thaw comes, the snow will melt, bringing excess moisture to the shelter, which can seep under it, bringing fungalillness... But besides this, during the long Siberian winter, the snow is compacted and compacted, under the weight of its weight it can break the shelter and the seedlings hidden under it. Not only that, so roses can also suffocate, because just at this time they begin to wake up and require an influx of fresh air.

In Siberia to avoid troubleyou should start freeing roses from snow at the end of MarchIf you are worried that the roses will freeze, remove the snow in layers. After the snow has been removed from the shelter, it is necessary to ventilate the roses, if you covered the rose bushes with sawdust, spruce branches or fallen autumn leaves, they should be mixed. If you used a special material purchased in stores to shelter roses for the winter, then you do not need to touch it, it perfectly allows fresh air to pass through.Well, with the arrival of heat, the shelter of roses is completely removed.... Don't forget that roses need a rowmandatory procedures in the spring.

It happens that the roses have difficultly survived the winter and are greatly weakened, and there are fears of losing the bush.After opening, be sure to feed the roses. More experienced lovers of roses and Siberia told the way thanks to which it is possibleto bring back to life even those seedlings that it seemed would be impossible to save. For this, 1 ampoule of Zircon and 1 ampoule of Cytovite are diluted for 10 liters of water, the resulting solution is poured over the roses under the root, which greatly stimulates the root system.

Contrary to popular belief, roses are grown in Siberia and the Urals, and very successfully. Dare, the main desire and aspiration, then everything will work out. 

Tested in practice!

The beauty of Siberia is called harsh. Its wide immense forests, mighty rivers, white snow blankets create a unique feeling of the power of nature, which has painted the earth in blue-green tones. All the more magical against this background are the delicate and beautiful rose flowers of almost all colors of the rainbow, capable of falling in love with gardeners of any area.

Growing roses in Siberia is a more laborious task than in the south, but the reward for it is also higher - it is delight from contemplation of the “queen of the garden” bloom, pride in your skill and “light hand” of a gardener, and admiration in the eyes of friends.

When to plant roses

When is the best time to plant roses in spring or autumn? Planting roses in open ground in Siberia is possible both in spring and autumn, but practicing gardeners prefer to plant this plant in spring. This is explained by the fact that for a successful wintering, the plant must be strong, rooted well and must go into a dormant stage. Since the calendar autumn and the actual one are often very different, it is not always possible to calculate the timing of planting a rose in the fall so that the plant does not actively start growing, throwing all its strength into forcing new branches. Such plants do not have time to ripen by the onset of low temperatures and automatically fall into a risk group.

Selecting and preparing a landing site

Any kind of rose, even the most patient to weather conditions, requires a competent selection of a place when planting.

When planning the location of the rose bush on the site, preference should be given to the place, the maximum time during the day, illuminated by the sun. If possible, protection from cold northerly winds should be provided; a good location will be the location of the plant on the south side of any buildings, or low trees, shrubs that create wind protection, but do not shade the planting.

Rose is able to grow on almost any soil, except for those with a strongly acidic reaction, sandy and heavy clay, but prefers light, well-fertilized, slightly acidic. At the same time, the plant is sensitive to the height of groundwater and swampiness, in such conditions, roses do not take root well, get sick, and hibernate badly.

In areas where the groundwater level is less than 1 meter, the terrain is flooded in spring or autumn, a good solution is to plant roses in raised ridges. Such a planting will protect the roots of the shrub from damping out and decay, and will provide a faster heating of the soil in spring and slightly extend the short Siberian summer.

For a spring planting, it is better to prepare a pit in advance, even in the fall. The size of the pit depends on the size of the root system of the plant, on average 50x50x50 cm.Since under favorable conditions many varieties of roses grow in one place for more than 25 years, it is better to fill the hole with nutritious soil, as well as planting fruit trees, providing the plant with a margin of safety. At the bottom of the planting pit, a mixture of the top layer of soil (humus), ready-made compost, rotted manure, sand, wood ash is laid.

Planting roses in Siberia

In the spring, planting roses begins at the signal of nature itself - knowledgeable gardeners begin it from the dandelion flowering period, and finish no later than mid-June. A later planting may prevent the plant from going through the maturation period of the wood, which is necessary for a successful wintering.

Before planting, it is necessary to inspect the rose seedling, and if it has time to dry up, the roots have lost their turgor, it should be soaked in water at room temperature for several hours. Damaged, too thinned, as well as unnecessarily long roots (more than 25 cm) of plants must be cut off, after which it is useful to dip them into a clay chatterbox for healing and better survival. A chatterbox, which is also used to treat damaged bark of fruit trees, is made from clay and mullein solution (2: 1), a good effect is the addition of microbiological fertilizers or the results of the life of a worm farm.

If the roots of the rose have been cut, the stems of the plant are also recommended to be shortened to maintain a balance between the aboveground and underground parts of the plant.

A planting hole for roses, prepared in the fall, is spilled with water, a mound is formed from the nutrient mixture and the soil, on which the roots of the plant are carefully distributed. The seedling is covered with soil with the expectation that the grafting site or the root collar of the rose is 5-7 cm below ground level. After planting, the plant is sprinkled with earth, mature compost, moss by 10-15 cm, protecting it from drying out.If the weather is sunny, for the first week - two plants are useful to shade, as young shoots develop, shading is removed.

Rose care

In Siberia, caring for roses includes watering, feeding, pruning and preparing for wintering in accordance with the requirements of the variety.

During the growing season, the rose is demanding on soil moisture, but does not tolerate waterlogging of the soil. In dry times, watering roses in summer is carried out every 3-5 days, with a volume of 1-2 buckets. Frequent watering is a little unfavorable for the plant, since it provokes the formation of surface roots, which are easily damaged by frost in winter.

In the first year of a seedling's life, there is no need for top dressing - in search of nutrients, the roots develop more actively, capturing space. In the future, up to 6 dressings are carried out per season. Among nitrogen fertilizers, it is possible to recommend manure and tinctures from it, from phosphorus-potassium fertilizers - wood ash, tinctures of freshly cut herbs. In cool, cloudy weather, the absorption of nutrients by the root system decreases, at such a time foliar feeding, spraying with tinctures of nettle, medicinal herbs, microbiological fertilizers on the leaf are more effective.

Preparing a plant for wintering comes down to autumn pruning and covering the rose. More information about the fall events in the next article.

Roses are a beautiful, beloved flower. And any florist wants to have a rose bush in the garden. Moreover, the rose blooms from spring to the very frost. It is very easy to plant and take care of the bush in the future, therefore, if you wish, you can grow this beautiful flower in your garden. Moreover, rose seedlings are not in short supply in our time. For beginners, it is better to choose unpretentious, frost-resistant varieties. Park and floribunda varieties, these varieties are more resistant to frost.

Spring or fall planting? Autumn is still preferable. On the bushes planted in the fall, the buds wake up faster than on the spring ones. Do not plant roses along fences, near the walls of houses. The optimum temperature for planting is +4, +10 degrees.

At the chosen place, prepare a pit. It should be deep enough and dug out beforehand. The depth of the hole is enough 30 - 40 cm. Wait until the soil settles, otherwise the bush will sink into the ground. Be sure to pour drainage on the bottom.

Place the seedling in the hole. Before planting, treat the root system in a root former. Carefully spread out all the roots that have been treated with wood ash. Cover with soil mixed with humus and fertilizers. As the pit fills with soil, water abundantly. For better engraftment, arrange a micro-greenhouse for the rose. To do this, take a plastic bottle, cut off the bottom and put it on the seedling. Do not forget to ventilate. You can remove the greenhouse not earlier than, after one and a half to two months, the first leaves that appear are not a sign that the seedling has taken root, so do not rush to open it.

Also read: What plants are lavender combined with?

If you choose hybrid tea varieties, then be prepared for the fact that in winter they will need to be stored in the basement until spring. In order for the bushes to grow stronger for wintering, you need to weed, loosen and be sure to apply fertilizer. In spring, fertilize with nitrogenous, potash and phosphorus. A lush flowering rose will respond to the introduction of rotted manure, wood ash. Apply complex mineral fertilizers. Reduce nitrogenous fertilizers by mid-summer, apply phosphorus fertilizers for the last time in autumn. In October, cut the rose bushes, spud and cover with pine branches. In winter, cover with abundant snow. With the arrival of spring, clear of snow, remove branches. Loosen the soil around the bushes and cover with foil until warm. With the onset of heat, remove the film.

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It can be difficult for gardeners living in central Russia and in the Moscow region to determine the period of planting rose cuttings.

Differences in opinions about the timing of planting, a sharp change in weather and the individual composition of the soil on the site are sometimes confusing. Therefore, the autumn planting of roses, its benefits and planting methods will be discussed here.

Best landing time

Flower lovers are worried about when is the best time to plant roses? After all, every amateur gardener does not want to waste energy and money in vain. September and October are the right time to plant cuttings in the ground. During these months, the roots of the plant have time to take root, and they are no longer afraid of the coming frost. Autumn planting is postponed to spring only in two cases:

1. it was not possible to carry out the landing in the ground in a timely manner;
2. early cold weather set in.

In central Russia, early frosts are rare. But in Siberia or the Urals, this is often the case. Therefore, the northern variant of crop cultivation implies early planting dates, as well as the choice of frost-resistant varieties.

The principle is that whatever the region, roses love warmth. Therefore, if you do not have time to plant the cuttings in the ground in time, then it is better to postpone the late process until spring.

Overwintering the cuttings in a subfield will keep the root system healthy until spring. Shallow pits are dug and seedlings are laid out in the holes. Then we sprinkle them with damp earth and leave them to overwinter at home.

When to plant roses in the ground, in autumn or spring, this is your decision. But there are some advantages of autumn planting, which guarantee a healthy and flowering bush next year:

• in autumn the air humidity is 70–85%, which is 10–20% more than in spring. And this fact greatly affects the survival rate of the shrub;
• the amount of autumn precipitation is several times higher than in spring. There is no need to often water the seedlings;
• at the end of summer, the soil is warmed up, which contributes to the acclimatization of the flower. Its temperature must exceed + 14 ° C.

Advice! “A self-rooted stalk cannot be planted in the country, one that is sold in a container. It has an underdeveloped root system that tends to die in the spring. "

Unlike other varieties of perennial rose bushes, the stem rose is a biennial flower. This means that in the first year, seeds are planted in a peat soil mixture, and only in the second year the queen's stock rose turns into a strong and overgrown rose garden, delighting with flowering until the end of August. Accordingly, in the middle lane, by means of seeds, the rose is planted in the ground in May. An exception is the autumn cuttings of certain varieties and planting on the site also in the fall.

Selection of seedlings

Reproduction in the fall of a grafted culture guarantees a lush crown, juicy color of petals, everything that you see in the picture. Budding (grafting) helps even weak plants develop the root system, acting as a root stimulant. But for the winter, the plants are covered, and in the northern regions it is better not to plant them.

Propagation by cuttings is often done with self-rooted seedlings at home. Such cuttings are positively characterized for planting on the site. After all, their natural root system not only allows shrubs to grow, bloom profusely and have resistance to diseases, but also to winter.

We are getting ready to purchase plants in those places where you can directly see and touch them with your own hands. The root must be healthy, not dry and developed so that it is possible to bury the plant in the ground. If you plant the shoots on the site in the fall, it is better that the root remains open, and there are no leaves on the trunks. The leaves will not pick up excess moisture from the roots and will quickly take root on the site. If several green leaves are found, pruning is done.If the stem is dry at the end, then this is normal for the springtime, and unacceptable in the fall.

When buying bushes in a container, you should pay attention to how tightly the planting material is rammed. If the soil in the pot contains voids, then it is better to refuse such a purchase. The number of shoots will indicate what kind of crown the overgrown shrub will have. It is desirable that the stems are lignified and in sufficient quantity (from two or more). Leaves should be free of stains. There should be no hint of rotting.

The following varieties are suitable for the middle lane:

border rose	unpretentiousness of the plant, long flowering, excellent frost resistance, the possibility of re-flowering, the possibility of growing at home.
park rose	suitable for spacious areas: the bushes of these roses are not only tall, but also wide.
climbing rose	a real find for the design and decoration of arches, gazebos, columns, walls and fences. Shoots of these plants reach five meters in length, are covered with dark green glossy leaves and curved thin thorns.
stock rose	The stock rose is perennial and annual. Its petals are healing, and by planting this flower on the site, at the end of the season you will receive a cure for colds.

First, we select those species that will enrich the nursery and suit the climate. In the Volga region and in the Leningrad region, an open-air rose garden, cultivated at home, can grow. A park rose looks great on a large plot, despite household use.

Choosing a place

Where to plant roses so that they delight the gardener? First, an unshaded area is the best location.

• Any rose shrub, as well as a paniculate species, a ground cover companion, and a stockrose, planted in open ground, love warmth and an abundance of sunlight.
• Secondly, strong winds, high humidity and dry winds interfere with the flowering of bushes. Some gardeners place flower bushes on an area planted around the perimeter with other tall crops, as if blocking them.
• Thirdly, if the personal plot is planted with spreading trees, then you need to plant the bushes away from them, avoiding dampness after precipitation. In the southern regions, dimming is applied in case of extreme heat.

The following crops: curb rose and stockrose, are placed along paths, sidewalks, fences and foundations of houses. Note that for undersized varieties, support is not required, but they themselves create a lively and beautiful side. A climbing rose is tied to a special frame. Sometimes a trellis made of wooden or plastic bars is attached to stone fences and walls of houses. A climbing rose spreads beautifully along it, clinging to thorns. Sometimes she needs a garter made of natural materials: linen twine or cotton twine.

Make sure that there is no groundwater below 1 meter from the ground surface, otherwise drainage will be necessary. Here, the depth of groundwater and moisture circulation are important so that the liquid enters the ground and does not stagnate. Mulching will create a moisture-retaining effect and prevent moisture from evaporating quickly. Try to plant the rose bush on a slightly sloping surface so that the melting snow does not create stagnant water in the growth zone.

If you have a loamy plot at your dacha, then it's okay. Rose bushes tolerate this soil if humus, sawdust or peat are added to it. Before fertilizing the land, find out the chemical composition for fertility purposes. If you have already bought seedlings, but the place has not yet been chosen, then send the bushes to the greenhouse so that the seedlings are comfortable.

Preparing seedlings for planting

It does not take much effort to prepare rose seedlings for planting at home. We carefully examine the bush, take the pruner and cut off the long shoots, leaving 15–20 cm from the neck of the cutting. We also cut off the tips of the roots to make a highly fertile bush.

Like other species, the curb rose and park rose need to be soaked for 24 hours before planting. Next, we treat it with antiseptics. Here's a detailed instruction:

1. completely spray the bush with a 3% solution of ferrous sulfate;
2. we lower the roots into a nutrient mixture of two components: 2 parts of the clay solution fall on 1 part of the mullein.

Preparing the soil

Let's discuss what kind of soil roses love. At home, it is not difficult to prepare a useful substrate, especially if the land in the country does not consist of black soil.

The correct composition implies the following components: loam, manure or humus husks in equal proportions. We add a fertile part to the clay soil so that together they fill from 40 cm of the planting pit. A little ash is added.

Successful landing

How to plant a rose correctly so that it blooms for as long as possible? Wait for warm and preferably sunny weather on the site.

We create a planting hole up to 70 cm deep and 40 cm wide, on the bottom of which we lay: broken brick, pebbles, expanded clay. It turns out a drainage that also loves stockrose. For sandy soil, lay a layer of clay about 6-7 cm from below.

Then we add the prepared mixture, but additionally fertilize with superphosphate. The next step is to place the root of the plant in a hole, where a slide of an average height is poured, straighten the roots, cover it with dry earth and tamp it. Then shedding the seat, add soil as it subsides and huddle the bush for the winter, driving in a peg for a note. This is the dry way.

To plant cuttings in the middle lane in a wet way, you need to stock up on several buckets of water containing sodium humate or humus shavings for the growth of near-stem shoots. Someone decides to add heteroauxin as a growth stimulant. After pouring in water, shaking the bush, place it in a hole 5 cm below the inoculation level and cover it with dry earth. We sprinkle, but do not water.

In both cases, in the spring, the seedlings are loosened and loosened, removing the loose earth, and then mulch so as not to weed the weeds. stockrose, propagating by cuttings, will perfectly tolerate such planting methods.

The distance between plants depends on the variety. Weak varieties are planted 30 or 40 cm apart. Strongly growing plants require a greater distance within 40 or 60 cm. It is not recommended to plant rose bushes too close due to the transmission of diseases and lack of air. The stem of the rose is planted at a distance of 20 cm, since it blooms for only 1 year.

Additional care

Spraying from pests and pruning in the fall will prevent diseases and help create the right shape. Sick and old fruit-bearing branches are cut off. The stem of the rose is cut completely after flowering.

For wintering, we cover thorny branches with the help of non-woven agrofibre or burlap. Winter-hardy varieties rarely protect, but caring gardeners prefer not to lose their favorites.