Hydrangea garden planting and outdoor care disease

The flower is endowed with good immunity, but improper care and the vagaries of nature can provoke the occurrence diseases... It is very important to recognize the problem in time in order to provide timely assistance.

Leaf diseases

They occupy a leading number among all diseases.

Why do hydrangea leaves turn yellow?

• Yellow foliage may indicate excess moisture. Although hydrangea loves frequent and abundant watering, with excessive accumulation of water, it loses its attractiveness.
• Pay attention to the acidity of the soil. If it is lowered, you can add a few drops of lemon juice per liter of water while watering. Repeat the procedure several times.
• Protect the bush from drafts, hypothermia, sudden changes in temperature.
• Do not plant the flower in open, sunny areas. He will be comfortable in the partial shade of large fruit trees or next to spreading bushes. If it is on the sunny side, try to create diffused lighting conditions.
• Yellow foliage can be due to a lack of nutrients. Fertilize regularly.
• Waspslook at the leaves. If a grayish bloom appears on them in the form of spots, infection with powdery mildew is possible. Insecticide treatment will be required.

Hydrangea leaves dry, what should I do?

• Lack of moisture, especially in dry summers.
• Dry air. This is often encountered when grown in closed or semi-open greenhouses. It is recommended to ventilate the greenhouse if possible, install a humidifier, and spray the air.
• Sometimes the tips of the leaves begin to dry after improper transplanting, during which the roots were damaged. Even if you stick to the rules, no one is safe from accidental mistakes. We'll have to be patient and get to work. Zircon treatment will be required every 10 days. It may take up to 2 months to restore health and strength.
• Lack of nutrients also affects health, especially during the period of inflorescence and flowering. Fertilizers should be applied at least once every 7-9 days.

Why do hydrangea leaves turn black?

To begin with, the gardener needs to understand whether he is dealing with a sluggish or dry blackening. In each case, there are reasons and ways of plant healing.

How borotate with dry blackening?

In the case of dry blackening, large brownish spots form at the edges of the leaves, they become dry and wither. Causes:

• Sunburn. Protect bushes from direct sunlight. This applies both when grown in a greenhouse and in an open area.
• Excessively hard water for irrigation. Gardeners often take cold water from a column. But in many areas it contains lime and other impurities. Be sure to defend it before watering. Place large tubs on site and fill them in the morning or evening. Better place in a sunny area so that the water has time to warm up in a day.

How to deal with sluggish (wet) blackening?

It is not difficult to distinguish it by its dark and limp leaves. Causes:

• Excessive and abundant hydration.
• Drafts, sudden temperature changes, too cold summer. In the latter case, you can protect the root system with a layer of mulch.
• Pay attention to the composition of the earth. Plant the flower in loose, light, nutritious soil. Heavy soil retains moisture, impedes breathing and nutrition.

Chlorosis

Occurs with iron deficiency. It is characterized by a violation of the formation of chlorophyll. The plates turn yellow, but the veins remain green. Iron may not be enough in the soil or the flower itself, for physiological reasons, has lost its ability to absorb the mineral.

Signs of chlorosis can be different: reduction in the size of leaves and their color, twisting of the plate, deformation of buds, drying of shoots.

Control and prevention measures:

• Pay attention to the characteristics of the soil. It should be nutritious, good oxygen to the roots. Water regularly with acidified water to maintain the correct soil balance.
• If the disease has begun to develop, feed the bushes with iron preparations (in chelated form): Ferovit, Antichlorosis and others. You can also make iron chelate at home. To do this, you need to dilute 4 grams of citric acid in one liter of water and add 2 grams of ferrous sulfate. The solution can be used for watering and spraying. By the way, iron chelate will act faster if you apply it on the sheet!

Septoria

A disease in which dark brown spots 2-6 mm in diameter appear on the leaves (septoria spot). The causative agent is Septoria. Affected leaves gradually turn yellow, die off and fall off. As a result, the plant can completely lose its leaves. When the disease spreads, spots also appear on the petioles and young shoots.

How to deal with septoria?

• Fallen leaves need to be collected and destroyed in time in order to prevent the spread of the disease on the site.
• Cut off the affected shoots with the capture of the healthy part. Treat the cuts with garden broth.
• In the spring, treatment with a solution of Bordeaux liquid is required, as well as chemicals - Ridomit Gold, Profit.
• If the azalea is grown in a greenhouse, keep an eye on the humidity.

Rust on flowers

This is a fungal disease, during which a rusty tint forms on flowers, leaves and shoots. May be due to excessive planting density, an overabundance of nitrogen in the ground.

Fighting garden hydrangea rust

Treatment with copper chloride is required (40 grams of the drug is diluted in 10 liters of water). Some growers use Bordeaux liquid, but it can leave marks. You can buy drugs: Ordan, Topaz or Falcon.

Pest control

Garden hydrangea often becomes a "target" of various pests. It is important to recognize the onset of the lesion in time and take measures to improve it, otherwise the flower will begin to fade.

Common pests

1. 1. Downy mildew. It can be recognized by oily spots on the surface of the leaves. Over time, they spread, turn yellow, acquire a dark shade.A yellowish bloom forms on the underside of leaves and young shoots. Powdery mildew is often found when grown in greenhouse conditions, with high humidity and an air temperature of 17-20 degrees.

      To get rid of the pest, you need to carry out the treatment with a soap-copper mixture prepared from 150 grams of green soap, 15 grams of copper sulfate and 10 liters of water.

1. 1. Spider mite - settles on the undersides of the leaves, covering them with a brown cobweb. Then they become marbled in color, dry up and fall off. The spider mite is an insidious enemy. At high temperatures (27-30 degrees) and low humidity, it spreads in just 5-7 days.

      You can fight the tick with thiophos.

1. 1. Green leaf aphid - no less dangerous pest. It sucks out the juice, leaves a sugary unpleasant discharge, in which fungi form. Aphids quickly spread, the leaves turn yellow and crumble. It settles on the lower part of the leaf.

      You can fight aphids with insecticidal agents.

1. Slugs - attack in conditions of too dense and frequent planting. They are harmful by eating foliage and can be controlled with molluscicide (granular formulation). It is scattered near the bushes to the surface of the earth.

How to reanimate hydrangea after winter?

If the flowers were properly prepared before the onset of cold weather (hidden under cover), there will be no problems. With the onset of spring, the flowers will come to life and will delight in the summer with new flowering. But what if the flower was left without shelter in winter? It will be difficult to return to the previous view. But, this task is quite feasible.

• Treatment will be required to protect against fungal diseases Bordeaux liquid or copper solution.
• The affected foliage and twigs are removed and the treatment is repeated two weeks later.
• Pay attention to the ground. Acidify it weak lemon solution.
• Be sure to tidy up the appearance of the plant, remove frozen, dry twigs, feed. It will not bloom this year, but if you take all the necessary measures and properly prepare for the next winter, in a year it will gain strength and bloom again.

Hydrangea is a charming flower that loves constant attention and care. Take care of it properly and it will become the main decoration of your summer country garden.

Photo

For more photos on the topic of diseases of the garden hydrangea, see below:

Useful video

Learn about one of the diseases of hydrangea - chlorosis:

Hydrangea has received recognition from flower growers and designers due to the variety and long life span of its amazing inflorescences, their colors and shapes. The plant, blooming with pink and blue balls, was first discovered by members of the first round-the-world expedition from France on the island of Mauritius back in the 18th century, where it came from China. The appearance of the name is allegedly associated with the name of the sister of the Prince of Nassau-Siegen, one of the participants, the future Russian admiral. This beautiful princess of the Holy Roman Empire was called Hortense.

There is another interpretation of the origin of the name of the flower - "hortensis" (from the garden). This allegedly points to the location of the discovery of a colorful shrub - the garden of the Mauritian governor. In Japan, the hydrangea is called "adzisai", that is, "a flower like a violet sun."

However, there is also a more prosaic version of the scientific name - Hydrangea, which is based on the moisture-loving property of the flower. Indeed, translated from the Greek language it means "a vessel with water" (water - hydor, vessel - aggeion). Many explain the presence in the name of the "vessel" by the similarity of seed pods to jugs and the need for a container for sufficient watering.

Today hydrangea has spread all over the world from Asia, the Far East to America. Over these more than two centuries, it has been enriched in different types and forms.

Description of hydrangea with photo

The plant belongs to the flowering genus of the Hortensia family.It has more than 70 species, of which more than 100 hybrid varieties have been bred. Now you can see them as upright shrubs and climbing vines, deciduous / evergreen small trees, frost-hardy and thermophilic. At the same time, wide, rounded bushes and tree-like varieties reach 3 m in height, and vines - about 30 m.

This profusely blooming "vessel with water" is capable of wintering in the open field in different latitudes. It has large, oppositely located oval-shaped leaves with a pointed tip, denticles along the edges and barely visible veins. They colorfully surround the flowers, forming the unity of the composition.

Particularly noteworthy is the characteristic of bright, airy, delicate flowers with various colors, delighting from mid-summer to late autumn. Inflorescences at the ends of the shoots, resembling balls, umbrellas, shields or panicles (brushes), densely cover the entire plant. Flower heads are of 2 types:

• large sterile, called sterile, located at the edges of the inflorescences;
• small fertile (fertile), growing in the middle.

Most species are white, and some are red, pink, blue, lilac. The palette of inflorescences can be one-two-ton or have different transitional shades. At the end of flowering, the hydrangea produces fruits in the form of 2-5 separate capsules with many small seeds.

Types and varieties of hydrangea

Of the whole variety of colors, we offer you to get acquainted with the species most adapted to our conditions.

Panicle hydrangea

Panicle hydrangea are the most suitable for central Russia and, in particular, the Moscow region. Actually, it most often grows in old gardens. Its shrubs, reaching heights of up to 10 m, can also be found on the outskirts of forests overgrown with oak forests. An interesting feature of the variety is its unusual shape, quick recovery in an unfavorable climate, and frost resistance. A shrub on moist fertile land can live up to 60 years.

It has slightly pubescent large ovoid (elliptical) long leaves (about 12 cm), especially powerful in the lower part of the plant. This gives a special crown density.

It justifies its name by the presence of wide-pyramidal panicles of large flowers. They grow up to 25 cm and are excellent honey plants. At the beginning of flowering (June), it has a white color of small petals, which gradually turn pink, sometimes turn purple, and at the end (October) acquire a greenish range. Such changes are typical for all its varieties. After flowering, fruit-boxes appear, in which a large number of small seeds ripen with 95% viability.

Her most popular varieties:

• Vanilla Fraze - a tall bush (up to 2 m) with a large conical inflorescence of strawberry-pink tone. Its reduced copy, up to 1.2 m high, is the Sundae Fraise variety.

• Pinky Winky has a conical openwork sterile inflorescence with red petals. Height - up to 2 m.
• Limelight - it is the "discoverer" of dense sterile inflorescences. Initially, they have a soft lemon with a transition to a greenish color, and by the end of the season they become pinkish. Its height reaches almost 2 m. It is distinguished by its late autumn flowering. Has a low (up to 1 m) copy - Little Light.

• Phantom - a tall, large bush (more than 2 m) with a spreading crown. Looks harmoniously with large inflorescences, first in a creamy white palette, and "goodbye" - in pink. In terms of the size of its inflorescences, it is considered the record holder among similar ones.

• Grandiflora with pyramidal large late inflorescences, changing colors from cream, white, pink to salad, red. Their length reaches up to 30 cm. Its crown can grow up to 3 m wide.
• Matilda has a rounded crown, dull green leaves. Flowers, like grandiflora, are subject to a metamorphosis of tones.

Other varieties of paniculate species are also widespread, namely: Brussels Leys, Kiushu, Pink Diamond, Presox, Floribunda.

Tree hydrangea

Treelike hydrangea, native to the North of the United States, is fast growing, winter hardy, and more commonly known as white globular / bushy. It takes root well in the cold climate of the Urals and Siberia on moist soil saturated with lime. However, with very frosty winters, there is a threat of freezing.

This species appears to be a short shrub, growing up to 2.5 m. Its large opposite leaves on several drooping shoots are ovoid / elliptical in shape with jagged edges and a heart-shaped notch. They are distinguished by juicy green on top and bluish on the back. Due to their size and original shape, the leaves create a rounded, luxurious crown.

Globular / hemispherical inflorescences are also quite large (up to 20 cm in diameter) and are located on annual young shoots at the very end. Their flowers (large sterile, small fertile) grow in a chaotic manner. Until full blooming, the inflorescences have a pale green tint, and when opened, they turn into cream, milky, and then white.

These transformations begin 4 years after planting the bush in early July and before the onset of cold weather. Flowering ends with the formation of fruits with a miniature seed capsule about 3 mm in size.

The most famous varieties of this species are:

• Anabel is a low (up to 1.5 m) sprawling rounded shrub covered with a snow-white “cap” of large sterile flowers. The adaptability to cold weather is evidenced by the leaves, which retain their bright greenery until the beginning of winter. The variety does not require any shelter from frost and snow at all.

• Sterilis its inflorescences resemble Grandiflora, but differs in the oval shape of large leaves. Despite the ability to freeze, it can quickly recover after pruning at the root already at the beginning of spring.
• Hayes Starburst - This is the first variety of undersized treelike hydrangea with double inflorescences. During flowering, these low bushes are colored at first with delicate salad tones, and then with snow-white. From their abundance, thin shoots without supports can break, not withstanding such a weight.

• Radiant - it is a kind of transitional variety from treelike to large-leaved hydrangea species. It is also called "garden". It has decorative large foliage with a green top and a white felt edge below. In windy weather, it amazes with its mesmerizing overflows. In July, it throws out corymbose inflorescences with many white sterile flowers.

Other varieties

Other varieties are represented by plants such as:

• Large-leaved (garden) hydrangea came to Europe from Japan over 200 years ago. Its difference from the rest is a variety of colors from monochromatic to numerous mixes. If the homeland endowed the large-leaved beauty with thermophilicity, then the Europeans created frost-resistant varieties and species. They can now be grown in gardens and parks at all latitudes. This hydrangea can be seen both in gardens, greenhouses and along various roads. In the subtropics, it can grow up to 4 m in height, and as it moves to cooler places - no more than 2 m. The ability to withstand winter low temperatures makes it most acceptable for Siberia, the Urals, the Moscow region.

It has erect shoots covered with bright green, ovoid leaves. Remarkable are rather wide (up to 25 cm in diameter) spherical flowers at the tips of the shoots. They differ in a varied palette (red, yellow, pink, purple, purple).

Unlike garden species, it, as one of the few, can be grown not only outdoors, but also indoors. The advantages include ease of maintenance. Growing success here can be achieved not only by ass flower growers, but also by beginners.

Among the large-leaved varieties, such hydrangeas are especially recognized: Forever & Ever, Alpengluchen, Red Baron, Shimnebol, Endless Summer, Expression, Romance, Together.

• Blue hydrangeas are completely unusual representatives of large-leaved ones. This group gets its name from the color of the flowers. Its saturation and combination largely depends on the properties of the soil. Blueness is caused by the accumulation of aluminum released from acidic soils. Therefore, experimental florists can "repaint" them arbitrarily. As if the heavens in the form of rounded inflorescences fell on their spreading crowns of short stature.

However, when choosing these hydrangeas, you should pay attention to the survival rate of such plants in our climate. Most of them do not always perceive severe frosts. Therefore, blue hydrangeas are the best option for growing in greenhouses for further planting in open ground.

Nevertheless, breeders today have bred blue hydrangeas Endless Samme, Foreve Eve, more adapted to the harsh climate, with remontant flowering. Here you can also name such varieties as: Kumiko, Niko Blues, Mini Penny, Ramars, Freedom, Compento, Perfeshi, Honkori Blue, Jomari.

• Pereshkovaya (curly, liana-like), which is closely related to plants from the genus Schizophragmatic. In the wild (Primorye, China, Korea, Japan), it can reach a height of up to 25 m. Therefore, when grown vertically on plots, it needs support, and without these it can be used for decorative soil cover.

These features are due to the presence of a mass of aerial roots with suction cups, which help it to anchor on the surface of the support or the ground. On the long stalks of this vine, there are wide dark green leaves with multi-colored fragrant corymbose inflorescences up to 25 cm in diameter. So they make it a magnificent "green blanket". And she is also a wonderful honey plant.

Varieties and types of hydrangeas: video

Where and when to plant hydrangea outdoors

1. Pick-up location for all types of these light-loving plants is determined by the degree of its openness, illumination. Therefore, it should be moderately sunny, without drafts. Flowers do not tolerate direct rays at the very peak of the heat. The best option is the east side with morning sun rays. Constant light partial shade results in fewer inflorescences and later flowering. Sliding partial shade in the afternoon is suitable for colored hydrangea flowers.
2. The soil should be loose, fertile, clayey with humus and acidity (pH) from 5 to 6. This is important, since the gamut of flowers largely depends on the pH of the soil (pH). On neutral soil, the petals are pale beige; alkaline - lilac, pink; sour - blue.

Red earth is less suitable and sandy soils are absolutely contraindicated. Acidic soils contribute to the vibrancy of flowers; neutral - retardation of development, color fading; alkaline - blanching leaves, chlorosis.

3. Boarding time... For regions with a cold climate, early spring (early May) is suitable with already warmed soil and no threat of frost at night. This allows the plants to take root, transfer the first wintering after transplanting. In more southern areas, hydrangea is planted in autumn in September.

Landing technology

Its observance consists in determining:

1. distance between seedlings... Between large-leaved hydrangea, space is needed from 120 to 160 cm, and from neighbors of other plants (shrubs, trees) - up to 300 cm. For early flowering, the distance is reduced to 80 cm, and after 2-3 years the plants are thinned out;

• the size of the landing pit. For the unhindered development of the root system, it should be more than 0.5 m wide and 35 to 45 cm deep;
• planting depth based on the fact that the root collar is located at the level of the soil or not below it up to 3 cm.

We plant step by step:

• we dig the desired hole 20-30 days before planting;
• We fill the hole with a pre-prepared soil mixture. It consists of humus, leaf / sod land, peat / humus (in equal proportions) We also add urea (carbamide), potassium sulfate (1 tablespoon each), superphosphate / bone meal (up to 250 g). You can also use the ground dug under the conifers;
• we shorten the annual shoots of the plant by 3-4 buds;
• we place it in the formed cone of the mixture in the middle of the pit to the desired depth, carefully fill it up and compact the soil;
• water abundantly (up to 12 liters of water);
• mulch with sawdust, bark or peat;
• shade from the sun and wind.

Hydrangea care

After planting, the correct cultivation of a flower is as follows:

1. Watering extremely necessary for this moisture-loving plant. It is not for nothing that this is a "vessel with water"! Even the slightest drying out of the soil can disrupt its development. In a dry, hot season, it is necessary to “water” it weekly with soft (rain) water up to 20 liters. In wet weather, rainy summer, you can water up to 5 times per season. Dry autumn requires additional watering. After all, the consequence of moisture deficiency can be a decrease in winter hardiness. For preventive purposes, when watering, you need to add up to 3 g of potassium permanganate. Watering time is morning. To retain moisture, the plant is mulched.
2. Loosening the soil around the bush, hydrangeas are carried out regularly (after watering) to a depth of 10 cm. The minimum amount of loosening for oxygen access to the root system is at least 3 times per season.
3. Fertilizer / feeding when planting in the proposed potting mix for the first couple of years is not necessary. Then you need to do this in this order:

• in the spring, after pruning, the introduction of macro- and microelements (nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus);
• early summer - complex fertilizer without calcium and chlorine;
• at the first budding - feeding with superphosphate and potassium sulfate;
• at the end of August, potassium sulfate is introduced;
• fertilization with diluted manure (chicken / cow) - no more than 2 times for the whole season.

Feeding hydrangeas with lactic acid (sour milk, whey, kefir, sour bread) is very effective.

Remember! Excessive application of nitrogen leads to weak flowering, the occurrence of rot, problems during the wintering of perennials. A sense of proportion should be also when fertilizing with organic matter, mineral salts. Feeding with wood ash is excluded.

4. Pruning hydrangea is carried out depending on its age, season, goals. Pruning in all cases is carried out in the spring with swelling of the buds. Let us briefly dwell on these main points.

Youngsters need this for the formation of growths, stimulating the process of flower formation. To prepare for a lush flowering for the future, you need to remove the buds still the size of a pea for the first 2 years after planting, or to pick off all the inflorescences. In order to regulate the height, density, it is necessary to prune the plant in the spring (April-May). And if we are talking about the so-called cosmetic pruning here, then the older plants need to be sanitary.

Shrubs more than 3 years old "rejuvenate" by "freeing" space for the growth of new ones (removing all dried shoots, some of the old ones, shortening them by 5 buds). These "old people" can also be cut off "at the root", forming low stumps, from which new growth will begin to develop.

Compliance with these basic rules allows growers to avoid common mistakes. This is a careless attitude towards obsolete shoots or too fanatical removal of those still worth living.

Growing hydrangea, tips: video

Preparing for winter

Begins already with the first light frosts in the second half of October. This involves cutting off faded inflorescences. Otherwise, under the weight of snow, they can provoke the breaking of branches. In a harsh winter climate, experienced flower growers also practice sheltering young seedlings like clematis and grapes.

Attention! In the Central lane, Moscow region, Siberia, in the Urals and the North-West, paniculate, tree-like hydrangea must be covered.

Plants with insufficient winter hardiness can be transplanted into pots / flowerpots and removed. In particular, large-leaved plants must be dug up, transplanted into another container and transferred to the greenhouse, and then to the basement. Before that, it is necessary to remove all the leaves from the bush and leave only the buds of inflorescences located at the tips of the branches and a couple of leaves that protect them. Then the branches are tied with elastic fabric in bunches of 3-4 pieces. They are carefully bent very close to the ground, secured with staples and covered with agrofibre / burlap before the onset of cold weather.

On the eve of frost, instead of this shelter, the bundles are covered with dry compost, peat. Since frost is more dangerous for the tips of the shoots than the bases of the bush, the latter is sprinkled only a little. Further protection of the shelter consists in pulling the covering material over the set arcs.

This design (except for the ends) is covered with a film and remains until spring arrives. Open sides are a kind of "insurance" against the appearance of condensation inside it, hydrangea damping out.

From about mid-March, the film, the shelter material, is removed, the mulch is raked and again covered with burlap. After the frosts leave, the shelter is removed completely.

Diseases and the fight against them

In general, hydrangea is a fairly healthy plant, but it is difficult for it to resist some pests and sores. Their diseases can be triggered by an overabundance of soil components, an attack by aphids, spider mites, green leaf aphids, powdery mildew.

So, an overabundance of humus in the ground, lime leads to the loss of leaves of their color (chlorosis). For its treatment, plants should be watered with solutions of copper sulfate and potassium nitrate (after 3 days each).

With waterlogging of the air, the soil can be affected by powdery mildew. It can be eliminated by treating the leaves with a soap solution with the addition of copper sulfate.

Hydrangea is often damaged by green leafy aphids, which can be disposed of with infused garlic. It is prepared for 20 liters of water in the following composition: chopped garlic (200 g), laundry soap (40 g). After insisting for two days, they need to irrigate the bush until the aphids disappear (about 7 days).

However, many health problems of this beauty can be avoided with competent agricultural technology.

Healthy, colorful hydrangea can be a striking accent in landscaping. It gives room for the imagination of florists when creating various compositions. Experiments with different types and varieties of hydrangea make it possible to transform the living space into a marvelous garden of colors and aromas.

Planting garden hydrangeas and care have their own characteristics. To admire the beautiful and lush flowering, we will learn how to properly care for this plant.

Garden hydrangea - species and varieties

There are many types and varieties of this ornamental shrub. Most of them prefer to grow in partial shade, but there are some that do well in sunny areas. The height of the bushes and the flowering period are very different and depend on the variety.

The most common types:

• Large-leaved. It blooms in the second half of summer with lush inflorescences in the form of balls. Flowers can have different shades. Height - 2 m.Requires shelter in winter, maximum tolerates temperatures up to - 10 ° C
• Pereshkovaya. Variety of creepers. It blooms with white-pink inflorescences. Requires support, otherwise it will creep along the ground. A good option for arbors and arches.
• Tree-like. The flowers are snow-white. Height - up to 3 m. Looks very impressive, but freezes in winter. The plus is that the plant recovers quickly. Requires strong spring pruning.
• Paniculata. It blooms from July to late autumn with dense panicles 30 cm long. The shade of the inflorescences varies from white to greenish.The height of the bush is 3-4 m. An unpretentious and frost-resistant variety.

On the basis of these species, many different varieties have been created, each of which is beautiful in its own way. Depending on the type, hydrangeas can be deciduous or evergreen, but in our area they are most often grown in the first version.

Growing features

Interestingly, the shade of the inflorescences can be adjusted independently by adding certain fertilizers to the soil. On neutral soil, the flowers will have a beige or cream shade. The soil with a high alkali content gives the flowers a pink or lilac color, acids - a blue one.

Bright illumination is very important for the shrub, but the scorching rays of the sun are destructive for it, as well as deep shadow. Therefore, it is best to plant a flower where there is shade at lunchtime, and the rest of the time - the sun.

It is important not to overfeed the seedlings with organic matter. They will grow green mass, but are unlikely to bloom.

Landing in open ground

Hydrangea is a demanding flower. Therefore, before landing, you need to think carefully about all the nuances.

Site and soil preparation

The landing site must be prepared in advance - about 2 weeks in advance. The soil should be acidic and well moisturized. The acidity can be adjusted independently with the help of special preparations. Depending on the variety, the flowers can grow in partial shade or in the sun. The best place for planting is light partial shade; in a strong shade, the plants will not bloom.

The hole should be small: 40 cm deep and 40 cm wide. If a group planting is planned, then the distance between the bushes should be at least 90-100 cm. Sand and fertilizers are added to the pit, mixing well with the ground. The next layer is poured a little peat.

How and when to plant?

Planting is done in early spring or autumn. It depends on the climate of each region. In cold areas, it is better to plant the bushes in the spring so that they can give new roots, get stronger and be able to survive the harsh winter. In warmer regions, planting can be done in the fall. If planting is done in spring, then annual shoots should be shortened by at least 3 buds.

It is advisable to shorten the roots of the seedling a little. When planting, you need to ensure that the root collar is not covered with earth. The planted bush is abundantly watered and mulched with peat. When watering, care must be taken that a strong jet of water does not erode the soil near the roots.

As soon as new leaves appear on the plant, this indicates that the process of the formation of new roots is in full swing.

Phantom hydrangea care

Hydrangea Phantom is one of the most beautiful of the paniculata family. It blooms magnificently throughout the season with long panicles and exudes a pleasant aroma. The variety is resistant to root diseases and frost, quickly recovers after freezing. The bush can grow in one place for many years without requiring a transplant.

Watering and feeding

"Hydrangea" translated from Latin means "yearning for water." The flower is very hygrophilous, therefore, in no case should the soil dry out. Watering should be regular and abundant. As soon as the topsoil dries up a little, the plant needs to be watered again. If the ground around the bush is mulched with peat, you can water less often, since the soil does not dry out so quickly. In the first years, 7-8 liters of water are poured under each seedling, in subsequent years - at least 18 liters.

Watering is the best time to feed. In early spring, the plant needs nitrogen fertilization, during the budding period - in potassium and phosphorus.

It is useful to water the bushes with acidified water once every 2 weeks. For 10 liters of water, you need to take 1 tbsp. l. citric acid. The solution is poured directly under the roots. In addition, in the spring-summer period, once every 3-4 weeks, you need to loosen the ground in order to improve aeration.

How to transplant and prune?

The plant tolerates pruning well. If you do not cut it, the bush will lose its decorative effect, and the flowering will be weak. It is best to do this procedure in the spring, when the buds are swollen.If the bushes are too old, they can be easily renewed by cutting them almost to the root.

All types of hydrangeas can be divided into two groups:

• In the first category includes those species and varieties, the flowers of which are formed on the shoots of the last year (petiole, prickly, large-leaved, serrate). They do not need special pruning, it is enough to remove old, dried and improperly growing branches.
• To the second category includes species that form flowers on the shoots of the current year (paniculate and tree-like). These bushes require strong pruning, all shoots should be shortened in early spring to 2-3 pairs of buds.

When the hydrangea is going to bloom for the first time, you need to immediately cut off all the buds so that the plant gains strength and can bloom profusely next year. Formative pruning of the bush within 5 years will produce a beautiful little tree.

It is necessary to transplant Phantom hydrangea only in extreme cases. It grows well in the same place for years. Therefore, the transplant is justified if an adult bush needs to be divided into parts and transplanted in other places.

Flower care in autumn

Caring for a garden hydrangea in autumn consists in pruning the inflorescences, while removing at least 3 buds from the top of the shoot. This must be done so that the sudden falling wet snow does not freeze on them and break fragile branches. The base of the bushes must be highlighted, and the ground around them must be well mulched. This will protect the superficial root system from frost.

How does hydrangea winter?

In the middle lane, the shrub tolerates winter well. But for a safety net, it is still better to cover it with spruce branches. In the northern regions, the flower is taken to a room with a positive temperature for the winter, since severe frosts can destroy it.

Sometimes the bushes are neatly tied, wrapped in spunbond and a mesh frame is erected near them. The space between the covering material and the mesh is filled with dry foliage. With the first breeze of heat, the leaves are removed, but the spunbond is removed only after a constant positive temperature is established.

How does garden hydrangea reproduce?

The easiest way to propagate a hydrangea is cuttings. They are cut in the spring from annual green shoots. It is necessary to cut at right angles. The length of the cuttings is no more than 12 cm. Leaves are removed from the bottom, treated with preparations to stimulate growth and planted in a greenhouse or boxes.

A good option is to multiply the flower by dividing it. This can be done both in spring and autumn. The bush is carefully dug up and divided into 3-4 parts, so that each one has several renewal buds. The workpieces are planted in pre-marked places.

Also, without much effort, you can propagate the hydrangea by layering. Young shoots are gently bent to the ground, fixed and buried in the ground, leaving the top (about 20 cm). As early as the next spring or autumn, the root cuttings can be separated from the mother plant and transplanted.

Sometimes the shrub is propagated by seeds or grafting, but these are too laborious methods. Knowing how the garden hydrangea reproduces, you can choose the appropriate method in advance and do it in a timely manner.

Protection against diseases and pests

Hydrangeas rarely get sick, while the lion's share of the disease is transferred with seedlings. For this reason, you only need to buy new plants from proven nurseries. Other causes of diseases are called plantings thickening, lack of nutrients and high air humidity.

Many fungal diseases can be fought with copper oxychloride.

One of the most common diseases is chlorosis. Due to a lack of iron, the leaves turn yellow, while the veins remain green. For treatment, drugs Agricol, Brexil are used. As a preventive measure, plants need to be fed with iron-containing fertilizers in a timely manner.

Use in landscape design

Hydrangea looks great both in single plantings and in group plantings.You just need to design in advance its location at a decent distance from other plants. Over time, the bushes grow strongly and require a lot of space.

The flower can be planted as a soloist in the front garden if it is located on the north side of the house. When choosing hydrangea companions in a mixborder, you need to take into account their characteristics. Similar requirements for moisture, lighting and soil acidity in astilbe, hosts, cuffs. If the site is large, you can plant a composition of several bushes. Their sprawling shape will create an expressive accent in the garden. These shrubs are often used to restrict areas of the garden.

Hydrangeas work well with a variety of garden styles, so they can be grown by anyone.

This flower, by its very appearance, brings some kind of peace and tranquility.

No wonder there is a belief among many peoples that hydrangea drives away sorrow and illness, and brings good luck and happiness to the house.

The use of plants in landscape design

Hydrangeas are small shrubs or trees up to one and a half meters high, less often vines belonging to the genus Hydrangea.

Its leaves are quite large, forming the shape of a plant, and small flowers are collected in compact balls that do not have a scent.

Hydrangea bushes give the impression of simplicity and solemnity, lightness and solidity at the same time. For these qualities, the plant has become very popular, one of the favorites of landscape design.

Hydrangeas are used to decorate flowerbeds and lawns in parks, squares, and are planted next to institutions, in adjoining territories.

The plant is good, both singly and in groups. It perfectly emphasizes other plants, in particular, conifers.

Looks great against the background of a flat lawn, garden forms. Elegant inflorescences are represented by a variety of colors: white, pink, burgundy, blue. At the same time, the flowering of the plant is long, and the elastic flower petals retain their fresh appearance.

The main types of shrubs

The genus of hydrangea has up to eighty species, and it is impossible to place information about all of them in one article. It is worth dwelling on the most common types of hydrangea that have received recognition in our climate:

1. Tree-like pleases with fluffy white or greenish inflorescences. The leaves on the bush are large. The plant can grow up to 3 m tall. It begins to bloom in July and is impressive until late autumn. Gardeners note that tree hydrangea can be subject to freezing in especially harsh winters, but usually it recovers well in spring thanks to its powerful root system.
2. Hydrangea Bretschneider originally from China. Dark large leaves make the shrub bright even outside the flowering period. The plant is quite tall - up to 2.5 m. Blooming in early July, this hydrangea dissolves white flowers. By the end of the month, they turn pink, and in August they become bright crimson. On one bush, as it blooms, several tones that pass into each other charmingly play. This species is very good for areas with cold climates, as it tolerates winters very well.
3. Large-leaved is the most common type of hydrangea around the world. The balls of her inflorescences have many shades. If you add aluminum sulfate to the soil, you can achieve a magnificent blue-blue bloom. It is this type of hydrangea that can also be a room pot culture. He lives well at home, blooms and does not require much trouble. As for garden plantings of large-leaved hydrangea, it is worth noting that it is sensitive to frost and can die in harsh climates. Therefore, it needs shelter for the winter.
4. Paniculata also widely distributed throughout the world. This is a very unpretentious plant. The cone-shaped inflorescences range in color from light green and white to purple and violet. They begin to darken towards the end of flowering.This species surprises with its winter hardiness and ability to grow even on poor and swampy soils. Bushes grow up to 1.5 m.
5. Pereshkovaya the hydrangea is in the shape of a liana. She needs a support to which she is attached with special suction cups. Its total length can reach 25 m. For arches and gazebos, this is a very good option. If you do not install a support for it, it will slide along the surface of the earth.
6. Ash or gray, reaching 2 m in height, is very often used to form hedges. Dense bushes delight with small flowers and dim foliage.

Garden panicle hydrangeas

Choosing a landing site

Hydrangea is a fairly light-loving plant, but it also perfectly tolerates partial shade. It is advisable to plant hydrangeas from the east side of the house or other structure.

If the seedlings are placed on the lawn, then light will be provided to them from all directions. The neighborhood with freestanding trees, for example, conifers, is not scary to the shrub, as long as the shadow from them is not thick.

It should be noted that the less light falls on the plant, the later flowering begins, and in this case the plant gives less inflorescences.

The bush grows well on acidic soils, therefore, peat lovers should be selected to accompany it. These are rhododendrons, ericas, heathers, irises. Hydrangea should not be planted in calcareous areas.

Planting a plant

Optimal hydrangea planting date - early April... In regions with mild or temperate climates, the plant can be planted and in the fall.

The prepared holes are filled with a fresh mixture of black soil, humus, sand and peat. In addition, urea, superphosphate and potassium sulfate should be added. In no case are ash, chalk or lime added to the planting pit. The root collar does not deepen during planting.

The plant can be planted in single bushes or in groups. For group planting, leave a space of at least 1 m between the seedlings.

How to care for your garden hydrangea

As soon as the spring season begins, the soil around the hydrangea bushes must be loosened to a depth of 5-10 cm. For mulching, you can add sawdust, and add sour peat to the base of the plant.

In early summer, before the appearance of garden hydrangea buds, fertilizers are used: slurry, humus. And at the end of summer, during the period of abundant flowering, the plant needs superphosphate and potassium sulfate.

Hydrangeas love watering very much... During the rainy season, there is enough water for the plant. And if the weather is dry, then watering is required.

A slight drying out of the soil around the bushes is not terrible for the plant, but for a long time without watering, especially in hot weather, it can adversely affect hydrangeas. The requirement for water is the absence of hardness. It does not have to be defended in containers, you can use a water supply.

In the photo, pruning hydrangea

Some content of iron salts in water is even welcome, as it protects the plant from chlorosis.

Some type of pruning is recommended for these shrubs. For example, panicle hydrangea must be shortened annually.

Large-leaved and tree-like are pruned at the discretion. On them, you can remove oppressed, weak shoots, which, for sure, will give a weak flowering, or not bloom at all.

With timely and proper care of the garden hydrangea, the plant will thank you and your loved ones with bright and colorful flowering.

Preparing for winter

In a mild climate, the plant does not require winter insulation. By the end of autumn, all feeding should be stopped so that the plant is prepared for a state of dormancy.

If the winters in the region are frosty, then the hydrangea requires seasonal shelter. This is especially true for large-leaved hydrangea, which must be insulated in the second half of October.

Spruce branches laid around the bush are suitable for this purpose. Sawdust or peat is additionally poured onto the spruce branches.Some gardeners cover the plant with plastic bags filled with dry foliage, which are fixed with roofing material.

In the spring, the shelter is removed after the last frost has left. It is better to do this in cloudy weather, so that the bushes are not immediately exposed to bright sunlight.

Why is it so popular in landscape design

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Breeding methods

Garden hydrangeas are very unpretentious in matters of breeding, plant reproduction is possible by dividing a bush, green cuttings and layering:

1. Cuttings are harvested in April... Green twigs are cut at right angles and planted in a fertile mixture. After rooting, they can be planted in open ground. In a cold climate, such seedlings can be kept in a greenhouse for a couple of years. In very rare cases, young cuttings try to gain buds, which must be cut off immediately so that the plant gains strength for rooting and growth.
2. By dividing the bush hydrangea can be propagated in both spring and autumn. Each newly formed division must contain a renewal bud.
3. For propagation by layering very young shoots of the plant are used. They bend down to the ground. The next year, an already rooted shoot can be transplanted to the desired location.

In the video, the propagation of garden hydrangea by garden cuttings.

Diseases and pests

The main diseases and pests of garden hydrangea:

1. On the underside, the leaves of the plant can hit spider mite... This is manifested by yellowing of the foliage, followed by drying out and falling off. A measure of the fight against this scourge is spraying the bushes with thiophos.
2. Stems and leaves of plants with high air humidity can be spoiled by false powdery mildew... It is manifested by the appearance of oily spots, yellowish bloom. Copper sulfate mixed with green soap helps to fight it.
3. If a shrub is planted in calcareous soil, then it is amazed. chlorosiscausing a sharp lightening of the leaves. In this case, the hydrangea urgently needs to be watered with potassium nitrate, and after a few days - with a solution of ferrous sulfate.
4. Green leafy aphid can also take a fancy to hydrangea bushes. Anabazine sulfate helps to get rid of it.

In the photo, the disease of hydrangea garden - chlorosis

If you approach the cultivation of hydrangea taking into account all the tips given, then it will constantly delight you with a riot of colors and flowering.